Solder job wasn't clean, tried to fix it, lost the part. baremetalHW literally keeping it real. :) That's exactly what would happen to anyone else trying to do a similar job. Love your videos, man
I don't remember when I arrived at this channel, but I am so very happy I did. While I may not collect die-cast cars; I whole heartily appreciate the enthusiasm and dedication to this hobby. It helps motivate me to get some of my own projects done and I can not thank you enough for that.
Turned out beautiful. For soldering, just be sure that both parts you want to solder together are hot enough, and remember that solder will flow in the direction of the heat source. If you hold the iron at the top of a crack and feed the solder in at the bottom, it’ll actually run upwards towards the source. Be sure your iron’s tinned when you head in (helps transfer heat into the part) and that’s all there is to it
I really liked the look of this car after the new paint. I think it’s the way the bright body finish shins through the translucent paint on all the many high spots in the car. Thanks for all the good videos.
Another great video. Glad to see you've added a new tool. Just a word of caution. Always wear rubber gloves when working with a fiberglass brush, make sure there's water involved. Some running water or with a container of water near by to keep things wet. Cause you don't want to inhale any of the fibers. Fiberglass splinters are near impossible to remove, have used this on and off for 38years.
You, Sir, are a modern alchemist That is truly powerful magick you possess! A great restoration and more experience in reversing the effects of time on diecasts!
Ouch, I remember these old beasties on the streets of London, mixed in with the newer types that were becoming the norm, creaky and quite worn out by the 70's but still workable until the FX4 (Cockney Cab II) became the only cabs available. Quite funny is Dr Who's Daleks used the roof indicators off of these taxis, the BBC were masters of cheap tat as props.
Lol, dude you're gonna be confusing 'em into thinking a Cockney Cab was an actual thing. Naughty boy, made me laugh, though. Haven't I seen those indicators on old Landrovers and Morris Minors too?
Yer, is what I was saying... derived from Hackney Carriage. Not being born within the sound of Bow Bells myself, dunno if I would be totally copus with "Cockney Cab" if I was... but, we Brits can take the mickey out of ourselves with no drama. (er, mostly;)
It looks great and the technique for soldering is very helpful. I saw Danny's Diecast Disaster Mad Max tanker and it looked great. Thanks for the new technique.
I am in the process of getting into Hot Wheel restorations. I found your channel, watched this video and am excited to see more as I have time. Thank you!! My first restoration will be a custom C3500. The body has several cracks. So, here goes.
It will forever amaze me how much work goes into these, but in the end it's all worth it, as they look awesome! Thanks for another great video as always. :)
You really have a talent in the restoration of these models! Your videos are beautiful and interesting! The only detail that somehow does not fit on this model is the sticker, but maybe I'm just wrong. Thanks for the video!
I have a few broken diecast cars that I need to repair. I have used glue in the past but glad to see a better method of repair going forward that I can try myself
Dude! Danny's Diecast Disasters is AWESOME! Those are some straight-up SHTF post-apocalypse, Hellbilly Delux rigs! Thanks for the link! Instant subscription!
Nice video, a few basic tips on soldering would be to clean the tip of the soldering iron and re-tin the tip (apply fresh solder to it) each time before you use it. Doing this removes any oxide/flux residue that has built up on the tip that might cause poor heat transfer/conductivity. I have an electrical/electronics background and it's one of the first things you learn in the trade regarding soldering.
Mazak rot or zinc pest occurs from impurities in the alloy causing crystalline corrosion. It's more common in but not exclusive to high humidity situations. Modern railway models still sometimes suffer from chassis rot, which is a pain in a £100-200 locomotive.
Very timely and excellent video. I've been wanting to try the copper plate/solder method ever since your first video on the subject. I recently got in three Matchbox Lomas Ambulance's with missing/broken rear bumpers. Looking forward to clearing off the work bench and giving it a go.
Being someone who knows how to solder (at the government contract level), I can help you with why the small part was difficult to do. The clamp you were using to hold the small part was actually also taking away your heat from the small part. Acting as a heat sync. The same reason there is some sort of metal cage on your computers main processor. So the part was not able to heat up the way the front of the car did repairing that crack. Basically, you would have to allow the part to heat up more first then solder it. Another thing to do is to use a clamp with a smaller contact surface with the part. Like the points of 2 straight pins bent at right angles holding the part. This would take a little modification to the alligator clips that we normally use to hold small stuff with. We used heat syncs when soldering computer boards so a part wouldn't over heat when being soldered. I hope this was helpful. Besides that, thank you for the great restoration. I always enjoy your videos. Thank you.
Great job on saving one of my favorite castings, even though I wasn't even born yet when it came out, lol, wish I could find one at a decent price on ebay, but even cars in the condition that one started out in still go for a good chunk of change.
Soder is something you drink, sometimes served with icecream. Could also be where Thomas the Tank engine lives... I'm in flux about the issue. I like me a Cockney Cab, Guv'ner. I've never seen one in the most common color you see them In England which I thought was black. Love to see you customize one in the future. Happy Easter.
It's just not where you live, it is as you say it. lol, I would have gotten smacked upside the head as a kid if I had said "soulder" a second time. Interesting, I had been thinking just that, to try and get a different surface, such as copper, to work with. As always, Your video is worth the time to watch!
I think it turned out great! As far as fix diecast, I like to use Super Alloy 1, it works great. It melts at 350°F, so there's no need for special equipment like a oxy-acetylene torch. Regular propane, Mapp gas or a butane pen torch/soldering iron will work. It is a little pricey, it's about $60 bucks for a starter kit that comes with the Flux and five 18 inch rods.
Nice job. Looks good. Little soldering tip is to use flux cored solder and try not get things too hot. I noticed the solder going a bit blobby due to excess heat. It may be tricky but try get the whole area to an even temperature and then flow the solder in. Look forward to the next resto.
Great work! I don't use this method for repairs only because time is limited. I would love to try it at some point. As for now I find the super glue baking soda technic pretty good. For me it works and my projects turn out good enough. My biggest and most frustrating part doing any redline era cast is drilling for screws. Never seem to get it right and end up going off center of the rivet.
So... copper plating the die cast parts is the secret! Sweet job! My two cents - at 5:57, there was not enough flux on the parts. Whenever solder does not want to flow, more flux is usually the solution. Keep up the good work! Great channel!
Just amazing how much time and effort goes into these projects. Lots of respect.
Agreed
that fade at 2:10 made my soul happy 😂
Great work as always! 👌
Solder job wasn't clean, tried to fix it, lost the part. baremetalHW literally keeping it real. :) That's exactly what would happen to anyone else trying to do a similar job. Love your videos, man
Yep
Thats coz BM is the og
The colored windows in the blues or yellows are always something that gives a feeling back - that nastalgia!
I have become addicted to watching you restore these cars .
Looks great! Love the way you shut down the haters right up front!
Best to ignore them all together
Who in the hell downvotes a video like this? You videos are always awesome and appreciated.
I don't remember when I arrived at this channel, but I am so very happy I did. While I may not collect die-cast cars; I whole heartily appreciate the enthusiasm and dedication to this hobby. It helps motivate me to get some of my own projects done and I can not thank you enough for that.
Turned out beautiful. For soldering, just be sure that both parts you want to solder together are hot enough, and remember that solder will flow in the direction of the heat source. If you hold the iron at the top of a crack and feed the solder in at the bottom, it’ll actually run upwards towards the source. Be sure your iron’s tinned when you head in (helps transfer heat into the part) and that’s all there is to it
Ever thought of branching in to restoration of other stuff, I think you would be really good at it. You have a God given talent
You're awesome, you're the Bob Ross of diecast restoration.
I really liked the look of this car after the new paint. I think it’s the way the bright body finish shins through the translucent paint on all the many high spots in the car.
Thanks for all the good videos.
You can't even notice that one day the car was even broken,nice one and thanks for the amazing video!!
Another great video. Glad to see you've added a new tool. Just a word of caution. Always wear rubber gloves when working with a fiberglass brush, make sure there's water involved. Some running water or with a container of water near by to keep things wet. Cause you don't want to inhale any of the fibers. Fiberglass splinters are near impossible to remove, have used this on and off for 38years.
Nice restoration. I never knew that Hotwheels made their version of the iconic Austin FX3 Taxi from the late 40's, you live and you learn.
Top Job Fella. I too use your method for soldering diecast, have done for years and it never fails.
I like the way the details pop under the paint
Love your videos and projects. You are very skilled as a modeler, video editor and narrator. Very enjoyable to watch and learn.
Very cool technique you have for repairing these cars. Looking forward to future restorations as always.
Indeed a long time consuming restoration but enjoyable to see the finished spendour of a classic taxi Very good video Thanks
You, Sir, are a modern alchemist That is truly powerful magick you possess! A great restoration and more experience in reversing the effects of time on diecasts!
Your restoration looks fantastic. I can’t even notice the repairs. Thanks so much for all of the tips and for posting the video. Take care.
Ouch, I remember these old beasties on the streets of London, mixed in with the newer types that were becoming the norm, creaky and quite worn out by the 70's but still workable until the FX4 (Cockney Cab II) became the only cabs available. Quite funny is Dr Who's Daleks used the roof indicators off of these taxis, the BBC were masters of cheap tat as props.
Lol, dude you're gonna be confusing 'em into thinking a Cockney Cab was an actual thing. Naughty boy, made me laugh, though. Haven't I seen those indicators on old Landrovers and Morris Minors too?
@@stevewatts3502 Hackney Cab is what we say in the UK.
Yer, is what I was saying... derived from Hackney Carriage. Not being born within the sound of Bow Bells myself, dunno if I would be totally copus with "Cockney Cab" if I was... but, we Brits can take the mickey out of ourselves with no drama. (er, mostly;)
Copper plating now!? Would have never considered that! Sheesh man! You impress me every time!
It looks great and the technique for soldering is very helpful. I saw Danny's Diecast Disaster Mad Max tanker and it looked great. Thanks for the new technique.
I am in the process of getting into Hot Wheel restorations. I found your channel, watched this video and am excited to see more as I have time. Thank you!!
My first restoration will be a custom C3500. The body has several cracks. So, here goes.
Looks great. Thanks for sharing the tip. A model done in copper plating would be cool.
ruclips.net/video/8N01e6fmMo4/видео.html
m.ruclips.net/video/Xu3Y5rYNa8Uh/видео.htmlttps://m.ruclips.net/video/Xu3Y5rYNa8U/видео.html
baremetalHW video ^
Now I have the idea to do a bere metal model I copper plating
Turned out great.
I like how the paint looks shaded in different areas.
Welp I'm about to start restoring redlines these videos I have gotten more addicted to than just watching em for fun
The advertising for other channels is outstanding! SOCIAL Media at its best💐❤️🤗
Nice one. Paint came out just right.
I hope you never quit RUclips
That looks great, the color really pops.
Great job. That's a sweet C. cab.
Great to see you still honing your skills, kudos!
It will forever amaze me how much work goes into these, but in the end it's all worth it, as they look awesome! Thanks for another great video as always. :)
Great color choice....looks sharp
A beautiful restoration - and I learn so much thank you
Got it done through 'blood' sweat and tears. Looks amazing! Great work. Love that color on this car.
You really have a talent in the restoration of these models! Your videos are beautiful and interesting! The only detail that somehow does not fit on this model is the sticker, but maybe I'm just wrong. Thanks for the video!
a great hobby to somewhat prolong a part of childhood
Excellent work, I've been wanting to try chopping and/or channeling vehicles, and being able to solder them will make it so much better.
The soldered bumper looks great!
I have a few broken diecast cars that I need to repair. I have used glue in the past but glad to see a better method of repair going forward that I can try myself
Very nice resotration
Beautiful job repairing this casting. This would be perfect for cracked A pillars.I Always look forward to your videos.
Love the color. Great job!
Like nite and day, considering what you had to work with. Good job and thanks for the video. Keep on rolling!
Lots of work on this one. Looking good.
Dude! Danny's Diecast Disasters is AWESOME! Those are some straight-up SHTF post-apocalypse, Hellbilly Delux rigs!
Thanks for the link! Instant subscription!
One of your best restorations! Just great!
The magenta paint job really suits this one, nice work
Awesome transformation. Every video of yours, I always learn something new.
Love the color. Great job. Enjoyed that very much. Excellent. Thank you. 👏🖒♱😼🙄
Nice work! I love the way you copper-plated it and soldered that! it came out great
Awesome video, awesome end result!
FINALLY. The master imbues us with his knowledge!
Great job . Looks fantastic !
Nice video, a few basic tips on soldering would be to clean the tip of the soldering iron and re-tin the tip (apply fresh solder to it) each time before you use it. Doing this removes any oxide/flux residue that has built up on the tip that might cause poor heat transfer/conductivity. I have an electrical/electronics background and it's one of the first things you learn in the trade regarding soldering.
Great job. Good info on the "Crumblers". I have seen it but never heard a good explanation as to why it happens. Thank you!
Mazak rot or zinc pest occurs from impurities in the alloy causing crystalline corrosion. It's more common in but not exclusive to high humidity situations. Modern railway models still sometimes suffer from chassis rot, which is a pain in a £100-200 locomotive.
Nice restoration! I like this casting. 🙂
That came out great. Looks mint
Your videos are hypnotic
Very timely and excellent video. I've been wanting to try the copper plate/solder method ever since your first video on the subject. I recently got in three Matchbox Lomas Ambulance's with missing/broken rear bumpers. Looking forward to clearing off the work bench and giving it a go.
Fabulous restoration work. Great paint job, and I really love the color.
Absolutely stunning,you are the man.
even though i have seen you do things before I still like watching all the steps :)
Great result 🙂
One of my favorites,, love those red lines👍🏻
I love all of your ideas
The restored model looks great
Awesome restoration!
Bro that was bad ass an the paint job was sweet.
before your reccomendation i already wanted to point out, this car is perfect for a madmax custom barematelHW,
great video and eager to see more!
Extremely better then before. Nice work Man !!! Cheers !!***.
Being someone who knows how to solder (at the government contract level), I can help you with why the small part was difficult to do. The clamp you were using to hold the small part was actually also taking away your heat from the small part. Acting as a heat sync. The same reason there is some sort of metal cage on your computers main processor. So the part was not able to heat up the way the front of the car did repairing that crack. Basically, you would have to allow the part to heat up more first then solder it. Another thing to do is to use a clamp with a smaller contact surface with the part. Like the points of 2 straight pins bent at right angles holding the part. This would take a little modification to the alligator clips that we normally use to hold small stuff with. We used heat syncs when soldering computer boards so a part wouldn't over heat when being soldered. I hope this was helpful. Besides that, thank you for the great restoration. I always enjoy your videos. Thank you.
It's a real beauty, nice work
The car looks great! I have never seen that one before. I think that's a first for me. Great job on the soldering.
You’re awesome man, I love the hard work, and dedication, you put into your models, they’re amazing, love your channel man.👍👍😁
Great job on saving one of my favorite castings, even though I wasn't even born yet when it came out, lol, wish I could find one at a decent price on ebay, but even cars in the condition that one started out in still go for a good chunk of change.
Nice job! I prefer MicroLux paste for soldering. I just bought a red HK Cockney Cab today for $14. Just a couple chipped bumper corners.
I don't collect diecast cars... but I totally want one of these (even if it was a semi-cheap repro) in spectraflame cherry red!
Wow! Awesome job!😎👍
Soder is something you drink, sometimes served with icecream. Could also be where Thomas the Tank engine lives... I'm in flux about the issue. I like me a Cockney Cab, Guv'ner. I've never seen one in the most common color you see them In England which I thought was black. Love to see you customize one in the future. Happy Easter.
Looking amazing, love your efforts to making the car new again. Thank you for sharing your story. God bless you and your family
It's just not where you live, it is as you say it. lol, I would have gotten smacked upside the head as a kid if I had said "soulder" a second time. Interesting, I had been thinking just that, to try and get a different surface, such as copper, to work with. As always, Your video is worth the time to watch!
Just noticed thew 3D printed alloy wheel display mount for the car, good work sir.
One of the only channels on RUclips that makes me genuinely excited to see a new upload, keep doing what you’re doing man!👍😃
I think it turned out great!
As far as fix diecast, I like to use Super Alloy 1, it works great. It melts at 350°F, so there's no need for special equipment like a oxy-acetylene torch. Regular propane, Mapp gas or a butane pen torch/soldering iron will work.
It is a little pricey, it's about $60 bucks for a starter kit that comes with the Flux and five 18 inch rods.
I can see a lot of love went into this! Nice
I love the purple!
You crazy genius, awesome fix. That's a super cool casting. Thanks a mil for the shout out!
Hey Danny I love your stuff, I bet you pick up a few subs with the shout out.
As always, another great video!
Nice job. Looks good. Little soldering tip is to use flux cored solder and try not get things too hot. I noticed the solder going a bit blobby due to excess heat. It may be tricky but try get the whole area to an even temperature and then flow the solder in. Look forward to the next resto.
Good job, looks good as well.
Great work! I don't use this method for repairs only because time is limited. I would love to try it at some point. As for now I find the super glue baking soda technic pretty good. For me it works and my projects turn out good enough. My biggest and most frustrating part doing any redline era cast is drilling for screws. Never seem to get it right and end up going off center of the rivet.
Nice job man. Respect. GOOD tips. Say and do things the way u want.
So... copper plating the die cast parts is the secret! Sweet job! My two cents - at 5:57, there was not enough flux on the parts. Whenever solder does not want to flow, more flux is usually the solution. Keep up the good work! Great channel!
Super retorasin cool😊
OMG you're a genius. Copper plating was the missing ingredient all along!