Just a couple of things: 1. It's 12v, you're not going to shock yourself touching it. It is better to touch the connectors when putting them back on the battery and wiggle they down all the way on the battery connectors to ensure maximum contact and a snug fit instead of avoiding touching the metal. The prongs are slightly tapered. 2. You don't need to cover the negative with a rag. The chassis of the car is connected to it after all so whenever you touch the bodywork, you're touching the negative haha. Thats also why they don't bother covering the negative terminal with a plastic cover, but the positive is covered. 3. The order of operations here are wrong, while im sure realistically no damage will occur, it is still best to follow the instructions to potentially avoid a bill if you break the DC-DC converter. The correct order: 1. Lower the rear right window 2. Lower the driver's window 3. Open the driver and rear right door and leave them open until finished 4. Pull up the seat 5. Go to the screen and open up the frunk 6. On the screen now power off the vehicle 7. Go to the frunk and disconnect the battery negative connector 8. Go to the rear and disconnect the DC-DC converter cable 9. Go to the front and disconnect the battery positive connector and remove the battery/vent hose 10. Place in the new battery and attach the vent hose 11. Connect the battery Positive and tighten 12. Go to the rear and connect the DC-DC plug back in 13. Go to the front and connect the battery negative and tighten 14. Secure the battery with the mounting hardware 15. Put the rear seat back together Finished
Just a little tip, it's better to disconnect the 12v negative cable first before removing the plug under the rear seat. When the 12v is the only thing powering the car, it can drain and then not close the HV contractors
Pro tip right here! I wish I had researched the official procedure from Tesla’s documentation & video instead of learning from other RUclipsrs’ videos first! I’m afraid I am only proliferating the wrong method with this one. While the sequence I performed isn’t necessarily “bad”, it definitely isn’t the best and it could cause problems, as you pointed out so perfectly. Thanks for this!
@magnusauto7941 well when I plugged it back in it didn't come on right away which kinda freaked me out but after about 7 to 8mins everything turned back on thank god.
The seat latches go SIDEWAYS. I kept pulling up on them, pushing down, trying everything. I didn't realize they needed to be pushed towards the left side of the car, and the rear seat releases so easily!
Something I did not know until about a year ago, when replacing 12v batteries in vehicles, get the little kit with red and black felt washers and some terminal protectant spray and use those. Can prevent the terminals getting all funky and fuzzy.
I'm not sure but I think it'll be less an issue with these as with the Prius since they're completely weather sealed and don't get the air, moisture, and heat cycles that gas vehicle batteries could get? But I live in California so maybe just not a concern here.
I picked up a new '24 Model Y a few weeks ago and was checking the service mode. Noticed that new Model Y's have a 16v lithium low voltage battery which is much smaller and lighter. Not sure about the replacement cost of these new batteries when they fail.
negative on the 12V should be disconnected prior disconnecting the High Voltage not the opposite. Also service mode could be used and most important, wait that the heating is completely off, then power off using the screen then 12V off, High Voltage off. Replace the battery, then high voltage reconnect and last 12V reconnect. If it is a model 3 with heat pump the procedure is different. Always consult the official service manual
Just requested this service on the tesla app. The estimate is $120 for them to come to my office and change the battery for me. Seems like a no brainer to have them do it
Hey men whats up, this just happened to me. I am currently driving model Y, how long does the battery last? Did tesla service came to your home or did u took the car to their service?
Exactly this. Warning came on that 12v battery is low. Tesla scheduled for next week and calked me that they will come tomorrow. Its $120. Including battery and labor. They take old battery with them. No disposal fee. Best to pay that and be done. They also said i dont need to be home. They have access to car without me.
Noooooo! Don’t pull the latch out first! I’m a technician for Tesla and you don’t want to pull the latch first. You disconnect the battery so that there is no battery voltage going to any controllers and then you disconnect the logic connector. Think of the battery as a negative and the logic connector is a positive.
Thanks for this info. I think I watched 3 other videos that showed this process in similar order. After your comment, I found the official Tesla video. Best to follow that one, I agree! Thanks for this. service.tesla.com/docs/Public/diy/model3/en_us/GUID-2588F809-41E3-43F1-84E5-6745C7C18DBE.html
That’s why I never subscribed to this channel. The advice given contradict official Tesla Owners Manual - Self Servicing section. Shocking some people put in so much efforts to misdirect other people. Shame!
Eduardo - I cannot find the high voltage latch under my back seat in my 2018 Model S. I don't see the gray plug with the lever - only a black & red plug. Don't know what that is but anyway - how can I reset the battery warning now that I've changed the battery?
I bought a "recommended" replacement battery because the Tesla dealer is about 100 miles away. My new battery does not have the vent tube shown on the video. Do I really need the vent hose? BTW, The old battery is 5 years old and working fine but other people say it should be replaced after 3 years.
My console told me it was time to replace the battery after 4 years. In old cars, battery has lots of air flow and hydrogen gas can dissipate safely. Tesla 12v battery enclosure has very little air flow. The hydrogen gas can build up and maybe explode. I expect the explode would be a pop and not a boom.
Thank you so much! Your instruction was perfect. I doubted 10 minutes, but I finished mine in maybe 5 minutes. There is always some challenges to DYI, but this one was a cake walk.
maybe it takes 10 minutes if you practice it several times. But it will not take you 10 the first time you do you. Author doesn't show there is a little clip on the high voltage cable you must squeeze to rotate the lever down. And I had to use a screw driver to pry it up. The little air vent fitting easily falls down into the car labyrinth below and then you need time to fish it out. Some pump would NEVER TURN OFF, even after powering the car down, until I boldly went ahead and disconnected the ground terminal as a final step and it finally stopped. It all seems to work ok now but like a typical car project you do once, budget 30 minutes I'd say.
When your car becomes a brick. First time I had zero warning. I assumed it was my 12V but roadside service said no, we see some codes that it's more,... so they towed me 100 miles to change a 12V battery. Sigh. Second time I got a warning my car needed service and wouldn't restart, and sure enough its a brick. I'm assuming it's the 12V battery again this time, but it could also be a bad motor.
I’m so glad the comments were helpful! Sorry I didn’t get it perfect. I really considered to redo this video using the instructions in the User Manual. 😆 That should be the #1 source. Although the method in this video isn’t *horrible*, per se, it’s safer/better to follow the right sequence.
Hello everyone, I just requested a battery change service in Tesla and to go and change it at home it is $121 for everything already with Texes , i live in California !! Good luck 🍀
After my 2020 Model X experienced a complete dead, I replaced the 12V battery with an Ohmmu battery. However, three days later, I received a scheduled service message to replace the low-voltage (LV) battery, followed by a notification to pull over safely. Upon inspection, the Tesla technician determined that the aftermarket lithium battery was causing the LV circuit to repeatedly overcharge. This overcharging led to the degradation of the LV battery, necessitating its replacement with a proper lead-acid original equipment battery. As a result, I paid $640 for the original battery and labor, and returned the Ohmmu battery, incurring a $38 fee for the return label and a $90 restocking fee. Despite these issues, I noticed that Ohmmu still offers batteries for the Model X, which I find perplexing given the circumstances.
@@airgunningyup check 00:08 in the video. The part number is on the box. Just call your Tesla service center and they will know exactly what to quote you. You can’t get a better price from anywhere else.
Your video was put up 5 months ago, making it around mid 2023. It's now January 2024. Where did you get the battery for only +/- $85.? The Tesla Center near me lists the battery for $225.! ... (and it's back ordered) :(
I just created a Telsa service, and they quoted me $85 for the price of the battery. I'm not sure why they are charging you $225. With service installation and tax, it's coming out to be 117. There has to be some mistake on their part for you.
@@tecnodog7 They're listed on the local Tesla service web site for $225., that doesn't include installation. I ended up disconnecting both the 12 volt and 300+ volt batteries and recharged the 12 volt battery for a couple of days. Everything is back to normal so I didn't have to buy a new battery.
Tesla OEM 12V battery is not good, Costco Interstate 12V battery group 51R is better, cheaper, and drop right in. when you call costco they will tell you they don't have Tesla battery because they didn't have Tesla on their list, but trust me this one fit like a glove
In germany the OEM battery is the best AND cheapest available. We only have the crappy Varta battery als alternative with 330 Amps CCA instead of 625 Amps of the original one. The thing is: The Varta does not even deliver 330 Amps, we measured laughable 240 Amps 😂 Which means, it has a high internal resistance which is bad for delivering enough power. So sad... They don't even take it back, gave me 20 € back and i now can throw it away.
PSA: To anyone who wants to DIY anything, dont take advice from someone who is doing something for the first time. Especially if they can't be bothered following manufacturer specs or learning part names
Correct. I failed to read the manual. 🥴 You got me. Also, I am not the manufacturer, just a random guy on RUclips. Please be advised that I watched 6 videos on how to do it before I filmed the process in 10 minutes myself. I have a PINNED comment on this post with the proper instructions. Main thing to note is the sequence of removing the connection in the backseat. With all that said, my video has helped a lot of people with many sending their ‘thanks’ for the info. It was a pretty simple task to complete & totally worth the effort for DIY to save money.
@@ActiveDutyInvestor yes. You get a warning on the screen that comes on everytime you engage drive. And the Tesla service centres get you in right away.
Just a couple of things:
1. It's 12v, you're not going to shock yourself touching it. It is better to touch the connectors when putting them back on the battery and wiggle they down all the way on the battery connectors to ensure maximum contact and a snug fit instead of avoiding touching the metal. The prongs are slightly tapered.
2. You don't need to cover the negative with a rag. The chassis of the car is connected to it after all so whenever you touch the bodywork, you're touching the negative haha. Thats also why they don't bother covering the negative terminal with a plastic cover, but the positive is covered.
3. The order of operations here are wrong, while im sure realistically no damage will occur, it is still best to follow the instructions to potentially avoid a bill if you break the DC-DC converter.
The correct order:
1. Lower the rear right window
2. Lower the driver's window
3. Open the driver and rear right door and leave them open until finished
4. Pull up the seat
5. Go to the screen and open up the frunk
6. On the screen now power off the vehicle
7. Go to the frunk and disconnect the battery negative connector
8. Go to the rear and disconnect the DC-DC converter cable
9. Go to the front and disconnect the battery positive connector and remove the battery/vent hose
10. Place in the new battery and attach the vent hose
11. Connect the battery Positive and tighten
12. Go to the rear and connect the DC-DC plug back in
13. Go to the front and connect the battery negative and tighten
14. Secure the battery with the mounting hardware
15. Put the rear seat back together
Finished
Awesome!! Love it. Pinning this.
@@techgeektesla I have an irational fear of being shocked, I will wrap my tools with tape, and use thick snug gloves
What if I can’t roll down my drivers window fully?
My glove box was damaged during this service is that even possible not mad just want it fixed.
lol you’re not going to “shock” yourself because it’s DC not because it’s “only 12V” 🤦🏽♂️
Not touching the metal, while holding a ratchet that is touching the metal gave me a chuckle. Good video, this is in my future!
😂
I thought not touching it in case the metal tears off the gloves and gives a shock. But the wrench is ok with it.
Great short video with everything explained well. It took me ~15 minutes to do the same on my Model 3. Thanks a lot!
Just a little tip, it's better to disconnect the 12v negative cable first before removing the plug under the rear seat. When the 12v is the only thing powering the car, it can drain and then not close the HV contractors
Pro tip right here! I wish I had researched the official procedure from Tesla’s documentation & video instead of learning from other RUclipsrs’ videos first! I’m afraid I am only proliferating the wrong method with this one. While the sequence I performed isn’t necessarily “bad”, it definitely isn’t the best and it could cause problems, as you pointed out so perfectly. Thanks for this!
@techgeektesla what if I did this and now I have no power and a closed front trunk? Please please help
@@generalmeyer315 Then you'll have to power via the front tow hook area.
@magnusauto7941 well when I plugged it back in it didn't come on right away which kinda freaked me out but after about 7 to 8mins everything turned back on thank god.
The seat latches go SIDEWAYS. I kept pulling up on them, pushing down, trying everything. I didn't realize they needed to be pushed towards the left side of the car, and the rear seat releases so easily!
Whats the plug underneath the back seat??
Something I did not know until about a year ago, when replacing 12v batteries in vehicles, get the little kit with red and black felt washers and some terminal protectant spray and use those. Can prevent the terminals getting all funky and fuzzy.
I'm not sure but I think it'll be less an issue with these as with the Prius since they're completely weather sealed and don't get the air, moisture, and heat cycles that gas vehicle batteries could get? But I live in California so maybe just not a concern here.
One thing I always do with a new battery is put it on a battery tender overnight to make sure it really is charged fully before installing.
This is a great suggestion.
I picked up a new '24 Model Y a few weeks ago and was checking the service mode. Noticed that new Model Y's have a 16v lithium low voltage battery which is much smaller and lighter. Not sure about the replacement cost of these new batteries when they fail.
Probably the same . 300 to 200 bucks . They may even last longer .
They are rated for the lifetime of the vehicle
negative on the 12V should be disconnected prior disconnecting the High Voltage not the opposite. Also service mode could be used and most important, wait that the heating is completely off, then power off using the screen then 12V off, High Voltage off. Replace the battery, then high voltage reconnect and last 12V reconnect. If it is a model 3 with heat pump the procedure is different.
Always consult the official service manual
And to reenergize the vehicle, press the brake pedal
Just requested this service on the tesla app. The estimate is $120 for them to come to my office and change the battery for me. Seems like a no brainer to have them do it
Hey men whats up, this just happened to me. I am currently driving model Y, how long does the battery last? Did tesla service came to your home or did u took the car to their service?
Hey, did that include the new battery?
@@sierrashackelford5868 they charged me $149 including new battery at Tesla dealership
Exactly this. Warning came on that 12v battery is low. Tesla scheduled for next week and calked me that they will come tomorrow. Its $120. Including battery and labor. They take old battery with them. No disposal fee. Best to pay that and be done. They also said i dont need to be home. They have access to car without me.
I'd just let the Tesla Mobile guy do it for $30. He's done it 100 times.
Sure. He can do 17 days from now, or I can do it today.
For some of us that don’t have a service center in our state that’s not a viable option.
Hi,, is the tesla body/frame grounded to the low voltage 12 volt battery? or do they run ground wires to all it powers?
Noooooo! Don’t pull the latch out first! I’m a technician for Tesla and you don’t want to pull the latch first. You disconnect the battery so that there is no battery voltage going to any controllers and then you disconnect the logic connector. Think of the battery as a negative and the logic connector is a positive.
Thanks for this info. I think I watched 3 other videos that showed this process in similar order. After your comment, I found the official Tesla video. Best to follow that one, I agree! Thanks for this. service.tesla.com/docs/Public/diy/model3/en_us/GUID-2588F809-41E3-43F1-84E5-6745C7C18DBE.html
What about when you put it back? put the 12v first? or the latch?
@@davn7723 put the latch first then finish with the negative.
Quick question, if my car if fully dead and can’t disconnect the connector under the back seat… is it still safe to swap the battery?
That’s why I never subscribed to this channel. The advice given contradict official Tesla Owners Manual - Self Servicing section. Shocking some people put in so much efforts to misdirect other people. Shame!
My battery is completely dead and nothing is on. Is it okay to change the battery without having to turn off the power ( power is already off)
Was it helpful? It was perfect. You are a great teacher/presenter. No extra nonsense, all usable instruction. Well done.
😮💨😮💨😮💨😮💨😮💨 first pop open your frunk, i did this step by step and when i got to the frunk part I couldn’t open it now
What did you do cause I just did the same thing, please help
Can you provide link or store where you bought it from?
Need to buy from Tesla Service Center.
Eduardo - I cannot find the high voltage latch under my back seat in my 2018 Model S. I don't see the gray plug with the lever - only a black & red plug. Don't know what that is but anyway - how can I reset the battery warning now that I've changed the battery?
Can you send me the name of the shop
Well done….you did great. Where did you get the batteries? At the Tesla hub?
Is this covered under battery warranty
Do you void your Tesla warranty if you DIY the 12V battery ?
The standard warranty covers the 12V battery replacement.
Where did you buy the battery?
I bought a "recommended" replacement battery because the Tesla dealer is about 100 miles away. My new battery does not have the vent tube shown on the video. Do I really need the vent hose? BTW, The old battery is 5 years old and working fine but other people say it should be replaced after 3 years.
My console told me it was time to replace the battery after 4 years.
In old cars, battery has lots of air flow and hydrogen gas can dissipate safely. Tesla 12v battery enclosure has very little air flow. The hydrogen gas can build up and maybe explode. I expect the explode would be a pop and not a boom.
mine was almost 6 when it failed.
Thank you so much! Your instruction was perfect. I doubted 10 minutes, but I finished mine in maybe 5 minutes. There is always some challenges to DYI, but this one was a cake walk.
maybe it takes 10 minutes if you practice it several times. But it will not take you 10 the first time you do you. Author doesn't show there is a little clip on the high voltage cable you must squeeze to rotate the lever down. And I had to use a screw driver to pry it up. The little air vent fitting easily falls down into the car labyrinth below and then you need time to fish it out. Some pump would NEVER TURN OFF, even after powering the car down, until I boldly went ahead and disconnected the ground terminal as a final step and it finally stopped. It all seems to work ok now but like a typical car project you do once, budget 30 minutes I'd say.
Great tutorial, very specific and detailed... 🙂
How do you turn off the system on the screen, and roll down the windows if the battery is dead?
Battery won’t be dead. You’ll get a message indicating that it is about to die first.
Well done! Great video.
What indicators if any tell you that the 12V needs to be replaced?
You’ll get a message on your screen telling you about it. 👍
When your car becomes a brick. First time I had zero warning. I assumed it was my 12V but roadside service said no, we see some codes that it's more,... so they towed me 100 miles to change a 12V battery. Sigh. Second time I got a warning my car needed service and wouldn't restart, and sure enough its a brick. I'm assuming it's the 12V battery again this time, but it could also be a bad motor.
How did you find out that you need to replace your 12V battery?
My car gave me a warning message that the battery was getting weak.
@@MrDavidwesty Thanks. Most ICE vehicles do not have this feature.
My car also gave me a notification.
Where did you purchase the battery at?
I need to replace mine as well.
The video mentions where. Service center has them at best price.
I ordered mine online, just Google. I got the lithium one which is much more expensive.
Thanks for the helpful comments.
I’m so glad the comments were helpful! Sorry I didn’t get it perfect. I really considered to redo this video using the instructions in the User Manual. 😆 That should be the #1 source. Although the method in this video isn’t *horrible*, per se, it’s safer/better to follow the right sequence.
Thank you! It was easy with your instruction and it worked!!!!
@@pamelainlv great!!
Hello everyone, I just requested a battery change service in Tesla and to go and change it at home it is $121 for everything already with Texes , i live in California !! Good luck 🍀
Didn’t work for me. Put new battery in and it still says need new one.
Best price I could get in California for a Atlas BX/Hankook 85B24LS 12V 45Ah battery was $340.
Thank you so much you help a lot❤❤❤❤
After my 2020 Model X experienced a complete dead, I replaced the 12V battery with an Ohmmu battery. However, three days later, I received a scheduled service message to replace the low-voltage (LV) battery, followed by a notification to pull over safely.
Upon inspection, the Tesla technician determined that the aftermarket lithium battery was causing the LV circuit to repeatedly overcharge. This overcharging led to the degradation of the LV battery, necessitating its replacement with a proper lead-acid original equipment battery.
As a result, I paid $640 for the original battery and labor, and returned the Ohmmu battery, incurring a $38 fee for the return label and a $90 restocking fee. Despite these issues, I noticed that Ohmmu still offers batteries for the Model X, which I find perplexing given the circumstances.
whats the 12v battery model number ?
@@airgunningyup check 00:08 in the video. The part number is on the box. Just call your Tesla service center and they will know exactly what to quote you. You can’t get a better price from anywhere else.
@@techgeektesla thx !
thanks! worked perfectly
Thank you. You have saved me some bucks hurray
How much did you pay for the battery
It was somewhere around $85 if I remember correctly.
Very helpful, thanks 🎉
Your video was put up 5 months ago, making it around mid 2023. It's now January 2024. Where did you get the battery for only +/- $85.? The Tesla Center near me lists the battery for $225.! ... (and it's back ordered) :(
The part number is in the video. The price shouldn’t have changed that dramatically!
I just created a Telsa service, and they quoted me $85 for the price of the battery. I'm not sure why they are charging you $225. With service installation and tax, it's coming out to be 117. There has to be some mistake on their part for you.
@@tecnodog7 They're listed on the local Tesla service web site for $225., that doesn't include installation. I ended up disconnecting both the 12 volt and 300+ volt batteries and recharged the 12 volt battery for a couple of days. Everything is back to normal so I didn't have to buy a new battery.
@@euro9115 that's so odd man. I went and purchased it the same day for $85 from the service center here in Dallas, TX
I ordered the lithium one, cheapest was 463$!!!!
Tesla OEM 12V battery is not good, Costco Interstate 12V battery group 51R is better, cheaper, and drop right in. when you call costco they will tell you they don't have Tesla battery because they didn't have Tesla on their list, but trust me this one fit like a glove
How did you quantify this comparison?
Does this Interstate 51R fit all Teslas or just certain ones?
Or Sam’s club Duracell 51R!
In germany the OEM battery is the best AND cheapest available. We only have the crappy Varta battery als alternative with 330 Amps CCA instead of 625 Amps of the original one. The thing is: The Varta does not even deliver 330 Amps, we measured laughable 240 Amps 😂 Which means, it has a high internal resistance which is bad for delivering enough power. So sad... They don't even take it back, gave me 20 € back and i now can throw it away.
Thanks
GREAT VIDEO AND DETAIL INSTRUCTIONS
That battery was gettin' swol. 😂
thanks!
you don't even feel the 12v volt, especially when you're off from the high voltage battery pack
left side doors and seats stopped working and charging port wont charge either, got error messages
Energy vampire
$86 WHAT, I paid north of $375 eBay 🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️
Sorry white shop you pay to the battery
Almost as complicated as some Germany cars 👎
PSA: To anyone who wants to DIY anything, dont take advice from someone who is doing something for the first time. Especially if they can't be bothered following manufacturer specs or learning part names
Correct. I failed to read the manual. 🥴 You got me. Also, I am not the manufacturer, just a random guy on RUclips. Please be advised that I watched 6 videos on how to do it before I filmed the process in 10 minutes myself. I have a PINNED comment on this post with the proper instructions. Main thing to note is the sequence of removing the connection in the backseat. With all that said, my video has helped a lot of people with many sending their ‘thanks’ for the info. It was a pretty simple task to complete & totally worth the effort for DIY to save money.
Ridiculous. All that technology and the 12V batterry is lead acid.
How long until you needed to replace the 12v battery?
I got almost 6 years out of mine which seems to be rare. I've heard of people having to replace after 2 years.
For me (model 3), had to replace after 4 1/4 years. (Just after warranty finished of course).
Is there a warning? How do you get prompted to replace it?
@@ActiveDutyInvestor yes. You get a warning on the screen that comes on everytime you engage drive. And the Tesla service centres get you in right away.