New series maybe? Here we evaluate why entering the code is not making the Schlage FE595 Electronic Push Button Lock unlock. Spoiler, the doodad is broke
It’s not just the thumbturn being turned to the unlocked position y’all. That was all checked on site before it ever got replaced and this brought back to the shop.
When black microswitch is unlocked (depressed) as seen @ 7:14 it is not supposed to electrically move further with a code like he is trying to in this video. Actuator has engaged at the battery plugin because it is set to the unlocked position. It engages the small pin for the handle when the battery is hooked up so that the knob can turn the slider once battery is connected. It may of been broken at the clients place because the long spring needed adjustment to the next plastic tab at the center of the cavity the spring sits within.
I have this Link system in multiple Spots with probably 10 door handle locks FE599 style. Your video was great, thanks. I couldn't figure out where the short spring went when I unscrewed the back panel. I unscrewed the back panel and moved things around and even thought of buying the small solenoid on Ali express because they only cost like .80 cents plus shipping but figured after taking everything apart and trouble shooting I would put it back together and see if the darn thing worked and it DID. Schlages help was you have reached the life-cycle of the lock and time to buy the new rendition that does not work on the link platform FE789. For those that want to fix it I would give it a try and take it apart and the worst case scenario is you still have a broken door set. In all my failures with this lock set over the years where I have just tossed them in the garbage and bought a new one this wasn't hard. I should have looked further and taken them apart. They stopped making these so its nice to have it working again.
I have the very similar FE599 (Z-wave version). It has worked very reliably for 10+ years. Suddenly it would not actuate (lock or unlock) from either the keypad or the indoor lock/unlock buttons. I disassembled it in a very similar fashion to the video and the motor seemed to work OK on booting (connection to power). So I cleaned everything and gave it a bit of graphite lubricant and reassembled. Suddenly it was not working again. I found that after manually moving the spring/motor spindle it would work a few times. So I concluded that it was a bad spot on the commutator/brushes inside the motor. I sprayed contact cleaner into the three tiny holes in the motor and worked the spindle to get it "cleaned" (I hoped). I reassembled the lock and now it seems to be working fine. For those who may not have noticed, a key aspect of reassembly is to place the spring on the "sweet spot" of the peg in the little trough. If the spring is placed too far one way or the other, either the locking or unlocking will become unreliable. In my case, the peg needed to be at the 13th turn of the spring, counting from the motor. The motors (probably used) are available from AliExpress.com.
I haven’t finished the video and now I’m a little relieved of my stress (for having to repair mine) by watching this “easily amused”. I’m upvoting this! 😂
OMG THANK YOU FOR THIS! I opened the lock to re-key the cylinder and a brass pin fell out. Couldn't figure out what it was for, and obviously couldn't put it back together without the pin...Called Schlage to ask them for a schematic and the absolutely refused to send me one. So I was totally stuck. Until I found and watched this video! At about the 4 minute mark there it was ! Thanks, bud!
Same here. Didn’t help I had a few beers before opening it up. I was lost. Didn’t have my cheater glasses either to figure out where the pin went. Now , tomorrow I can try again…. Sober!
I disassembled my FE-695 Schlage lock halves and placed them on a table. Keypad is down and horizontal. Look down the hollow square tube. There are two rectangular holes at the bottom. You want to lube the pin, spring, and slide at the top hole. Using Liquid Wrench white foaming spray from a big box hardware store, slide the red nozzle down the sq.tube. Place two Q-Tips down the tube to seal near the bottom of the hollow sq tube. Rotate the manual latch to unlock and listen for the motor and slide to move. As quick as possible, squirt a small amount of white grease into the bottom of the sq tube. Unlock the latch. Repeat once more with a second fast squirt. DO NOT OVER FILL. Withdraw the tips and nozzle. Cycle the latch on and off six times. Listen for the remote motor to run. It will run. Cut 3" of black electrical tape and cover the wires from the outside half for protection from abrasions. Reassemble the rest with the long top of the hollow sq tube being horizontal. Finish the assembly of the two halves of the lock. Done. Test the lock. It should work, at least temporarily, for awhile or even years. Get a spare lock, just in case. Presto! Fixed the pin friction problem. Some assembly required. Cheap fix. $10 max. White grease does not freeze in the winter.
I just fixed mine after watching this video. I think your issue is def not with the motor, which works fine, and not the motherboard computer, it is simply that the lock/unlock switch needs to be turned to lock.
Hi you have to turn the lock to lock and then try the code. I think you will find that the motor will work then. Also the plastic actuator thing-a-magig needs to be all the way down before assembly I have 3 of these. They can be a bugger putting back together
There's nothing wrong with that. That slide plate needs to be pushed up all the way, then spring over pin. The latch locking pin with spring needs to be up so the dark gray slide Upside down U pushed down when activated. The red plunger just pushes against the internal casing. The problem you didn't look for was an adjustable latch plate. 2-1/2 2/3/4 I believe, been a while. If it's 2-3/4 on a 2-1/2 hole, lock out/in . If the latch plate thingy is broken, and you found a little piece of metal you didn't know where it came from, it's probably from that latch, two screw plate thingy, IMHO. ✌️
Dude you just saved my marriage, I took this apart to paint the outside black and Pieces came out and I had no idea how to put it back together, 3 years after your video you saved the day, thank you!!!
Thank you for this. I had opened one of these and I guess the little pin with the spring popped out and when I reassembled it, it would not unlock even though the motor was activating. After watching this, I understood where this piece went and was able to get it working again. BTW- I doubt your motor is bad. It wiggles and jumps like that when it is triggered by the keyboard and not just at power-up. I think the issue with your lock is that logic board.
I've installed two of these so far. Cylinder comes out easy to rekey or master key. What I like about it it the auto locking feature. I have them installed on doors that have to be relocked after each opening like a storage room knob. The advantage is there's no key for the staff to lose....😎 Interesting video, thanks !
Mine stopped working after 15 years of reliable service. (Great lock!) I could hear it activate the mechanism when I punched the code, but it didn't sound as loud as usual. I took it apart and put it back together and it works again. I think the spring had just "jumped the track" somehow or the little plastic piece that hooks into the spring had worked its way into a position where it didn't have enough travel to deactivate the lock when the motor was triggered.
I had the same issue (the solenoid would actuate when plugging in the battery but not when entering the code). It turns out the manual unlock dial relay was engaged thus the lock always thought it was unlocked. You can see there is a relay switch on the plastic back side so maybe if that relay switch is not functioning your lock thinks it is already "unlocked" when you type the user code.
I just took this same model apart because the motor would run and the egress handle would operate properly, the ingress handle would open the door while in the locked position. Some of the time the ingress handle would fail to open with the door in the unlocked position. The pin with the small spring that goes into the channel that allows the ingress handle to operate the mechanism was gummed up with old lubricant. This lock faced the west for 15 years and I'm thinking the heat dryed the lubricant. After cleaning and a little wd40 the lock works as designed.
Just bought one of these...install was straightforward BUT couldn't get the lock to accept ANY of the codes from the sticker on the instruction sheet. Hard reset changed nothing. Customer support closed on Sunday...of course. Two hours of Googling ensued...watched this very informative vid which didn't directly address my problem...but did convince me that EVERYTHING else about my lock worked as advertised except that it would take the sticker codes. In the process of reading this entire thread I remember someone mentioning that there was another sticker on the inside of the lock...uninstalled it and sure enough there it was! DIFFERENT CODES on interior sticker! They worked fine. Problem solved. Human error at the factory. Moral of the story...check BOTH stickers during install.
I just had one of those that a client had taken apart on their own. They put it back together and it didn't work. Thanks for the video, because I was able to determine that the spring on the little plunger was missing. Unfortunately, Schlage customer service was NO help at all. They told me because it was taken apart it was not under warranty. I explained that I realized it wasn't, that I was just looking for parts to fix it. No joy.
I just bought a FE595 D Cam 619 ACC to fix my current drooping lever. I noted that it has a Lifetime warranty. It comes with a 5 pin C override, which I'm going to look at replacing with an Everest core I have.
Seeing the inside was super helpful as mine fell apart and I don't get to see where things were. Watching this I was able to piece it back together. The key is getting that pin to fit into the radius of the U shaped plastic part on the slide. When putting back together make sure the slide is furthest away from center post. This keeps the pin "out" of the keyway so you can pull outer handle without actuating the inner handle. When you PIN code in, the motor turns, spins the spring which lifts/slides the tray "towards" the handle post by turning against the spring guideway post (like an Archimedi's screw). When the tray slides towards the handle post, the small post with the spring will slot into the keyway, engaging the inner handle, letting you in.
Had the same issue. Typing in the unlock combination did not move the spring, nothing happened. Thought the motor is bad as in this video! Actual solution came when I gave up, put the lock back together and installed it, so I can go and get a new lock. There is a lock / unlock knob on the inside panel. When I turned this a couple of times, everything started working again. I am no electrician to know how it could affect but it did ...
Arthur Pakkas, I did the same thing. The grey plastic opening labeled 1 on the battery plastic has to be turned down. I can clearly see in this video it is turned to the side (same problem I had).
Thanks! I took mine apart and the pin and spring that locks the shaft when the unlock is actuated fell out, I couldn’t see where it went. Appreciate you posting.
Thanks I was like everybody else I didn't know where that little pin went that's why I looked up your video to start with so thanks for that..I don't know if anybody mentioned you have to make sure your 9 V battery is 9 V or better a lot of times it won't let the lock work if it's below 9 V I take care of 30 of them on my Motel doors and we get locked out a lot with weak batteries....
The solenoid/motor seems ok. I think there is either a defective scr or relay on the board or the board itself. The boot up test may fire the solenoid differently from the keypad entry. To make sure it's not the solenoid, just put a voltmeter on the solenoid plug wires and see if it's being fed voltage when a keypad entry is made.🤔👍🏽
They get a little dusty inside and then they don’t slide up and down right. I take mine apart and put some 5w30 motor oil on the slides pin and the spring then they seem to work great after that. I have ten of them and seems like one or two need oil each year
I know this is way late, but maybe it will help someone else. The motor is obviously fine, the problem is most likely caused by the lock/unlock knob position. I just experimented on my lock and I found the unlocked position to cause the motor not to run. Or it could be the circuit board, but since it actives the servo when the battery is plugged in that does not seem likely.
Bob Campbell several people have mentioned the Lock was in the unlocked position but it was only because I had switched it back and forth (on site) many times :) this one was fully exposed to weather/rain directly on it for many years and was likely the circuit board glitch. Thanks for watching though :)
I had one do the same thing. I wiped all programing out of the keypad and started working again. The fact that it works once with battery plug in tells you that its a keypad / programing problem not the solenoid (IMHO) 🤔
I think (mechanically) it's fine, but there's a vacation mode that prevents the lock from accepting a valid code. (I've not yet had an opportunity to confirm the below steps myself.) Searching now, I've not seen mention of it in the manuals (of randomly encountered models), but have found third-party documentation that says to enter vacation mode: 1. lock 2. press "Schlage" 3. enter programming code 4. press "4" and wait for two beeps + green flashes And another 40 minutes of searching have found third party documentation to get out of vacation mode: 1. press "Schlage" 2. enter programming code 3. wait for two beeps + green flashes --- My new neighbours got locked out (w/ a valid code) and I suspect the previous occupant set vacation mode when they left to avoid having someone entering w/out the key, and the door they'd exited had a lock set to *randomly* "secure" itself after a delay (they were unaware of) . [redacted reason for urgency] and unable to find the appropriate tool to open the lock, I ended up disassembling the offending door from the outside with an improvised tool.
from the description you gave and from the video. I think you will find that the motor spins the spring and the coils press the actuator. like most of the others I also think the circuit board has an issue activating the motor.
Where can I get just the flexible rubber keypad for the FE595 lock? The rest of the lock is fine. Your videos are very clear and the keypad looks easy to replace.
I followed what you did. You may need to try a new code or the factory code. My issue … I think was the Pin and small spring some how came misaligned. My code would activate the motor (could hear it) but my handle was not engaged. I reassembled and it’s working . Your video helped me with the proper placement of parts
After many hours of unsuccessful repair, I found this post with video and found the solution. The actuator motor turns the spring when you first install the battery, but it did not work when I enter the code. I noticed a comment regarding the thumb-turn and I then tried turning the gray oval plastic cam on the plastic inside mounting plate which was facing sideways (turning the switch on) and I turned it facing vertical. This allowed the switch next to the cam to be in the off position and everything is now working as it should. I hope this helps someone!
I need to replace the keypad membrane on a FE595. Schlage did send me a new membrane. I should have watched a new videos first as the pin and spring popped out. Glad im testing on a trial device and not my friends lock.
For the love of God don't lose that tiny spring on the pin in the center. You will hate your life. Just spent an hour crawling around on my floor searching for it. That tiny spring is essential!!!!
Your motor appears fine. I see 1 or 2 microswitches, You may want to try pushing 1 the other or both. Look close at board, may be a fine crack or cold solder joint.
This is exactly what mine is doing! I can factory reset it and put in a new 4 digit code and the green light just beeps and blinks, but no unlocking the lock!!!
It looks like the metal pin holds up the plastic assembly. Currently working on one and the plastic assembly isn't in the correct position. Just researching before cracking it open. Thanks for the video.
I got it! I think. Gotta get everything back on the rails and time that long motorized spring just right with the plastic assembly. Then keep that metal pin and spring up right. Actually I had stand up both halves to get it back together right. Thanks for the video.
I have one of these on my shed, and I’m considering one (the elan lever “light commercial) version for a building that uses an L-4 keyway. I wonder if a six pin cylinder would fit?
@@selock , thank you. Let me know if you know of any electronic levers that can accept six pin cylinders, and can be manually put into passage mode. That is my current predicament, as the commercial locks I’ve seen all seem to have a complex way of doing passage mode.
Probably because, the lock is already in an unlocked state, the lock didn't spin when you enter the code, If you keep the lock in a locked state, the motor would have probably spinned. You can set the lock to a - locked or unlocked state using a button that appears on the inner side of the lock.
This further solidifies my belief that I need to stick with mechanical locks. Those fancy and convenient electronic locks are nice but there is more parts that can break.
I have a similar issue, think there was a short when I was reinstalling. Its not the pin, I've tested the switch, done the reset and everything, and I get voltage going to the motor when I enter correct code, it just won't activate-- even tried it directly. I've got 8 of these things, and each of them have had problems I needed to fix, usually the pin falling out...
I would put a piece of tape with a flag end, plug in, note direction, If you only see it rotate 1 direction no matter what you do, I would follow wires to the board and follow trace to first parts(last parts before motor), since motor is 2 wires, polarity is reversed to change direction, could be dpdt relay, diodes, or transistors. Good Luck
After 8 years mine just stopped working... same thing the code goes in and turns green but the lock normally clicks once then you can move the handle and open the door... now it will not click until I use the key then I can unlock the door. I hate having to toss this in a landfill just to buy another one! I wish we still had the ability to fix things.
since having filmed this and based on others I’ve replaced since then, I’ve started advising these have a 7-9 year lifespan on doors exposed to the weather, which honestly for the price of these isn’t bad (in the residential electronic lock world anyway) farewell to yours ;)
@@selock Its not bad... but mines been inside the whole time. Originally used for my dorm room door and now for a room the kids are not allowed in cause they make a mess and leave it.
Great vid! Im thinking it might be the circuit board not telling the motor to actuate.... just a thought because it does work when first plugged in. Idk. But thanks for the video bud!
how long is that spring on the pin that opens the door? I took mine apart and lost the spring, I plan on using a pen spring and just cutting it but not sure how long to make it.
What has been your experience as far as getting parts from Schlage? Did you ever get an answer about a replacement servo? I have had a few locks that would have easily been fixable, but Schlage won't send me parts. I am licensed and insured and yet they say they only work directly with customers. Any thoughts?
Had basically the same problem with the 'sister' schlage deadbolt unit a few weeks ago - another video showed how to fix it, and it basically boils down to the spring on the solenoid eventually perhaps compressing from constant use (and maybe also from contracting in cold weather) meaning the spring was no longer causing the locking pin to engage all the way. The fix was basically as easy as opening it up as far as you have yours opened now, and gently stretching / reseating the main spring such that it correctly moves the mechanism far enough. (The unit i'm referring to is the BE365 keypad deadbolt, fwiw).
Check one of these apart to re kid and it won't function when I put it back in something is not put together correctly unfortunately I took the whole backing playable off and everything instead of just popping the door open to get the lock cylinder. I can hear the servile working but it will not the outside handle will not open the latch nor neither with the key or the code. Coworkers to on me it's toast because I took the bag played off And there is no way to save it. Ava hard time believing that's true can you help me on this one please?
if the engine rotate during micro controller booting. The engine is fine. But how can you open something that isn't closed. thinking that once the whole unit is assembled, there might be a reed switch or hall sensor, giving the micro a feedback signal, while the spring is dancing
Thanks for the info on these locks. Where can you get replacement parts for these locks?? I got two good locks that need replacement touch pads but I can’t find them anywhere? Ant info would be greatly appreciated.
Peter D'Ambra everyone seems to agree this one needs a new touchpad too. It would have to be directly through Schlage and they seem to have no interest in selling parts for these, but I actually can try to verify that with a Schlage Rep
SE Lock and Key thanks Jason for the reply. When you see that Rep you can tell him I won’t be installing these anymore because of the keypad issue and the inability to get replacement parts.
Go to a locksmith and see if they have saved non-functional locks for spare parts. I have not found the internal parts for sale, but I have never called Schlage. The silicone buttons and the latch are definitely something to save.
I have one of these and the actual spring broke in half. Was working great and then broke. $129 at Home Depot when the $1 spring could be replaced. Any ideas?
planetmikeus it’s been pretty much decided (by general consensus here) it’s the control board/keypad. I have since found out Schlage does not offer replacements.
Must be poor quality control by Schlage. I have installed 7 of these and oddly the one used inside was the one that failed this way. Also another weakness to this lock is the Thumbturn overide on the back of the FE595 is electronic and not mechanical.
With mine, it was the spring which was disconnecting itself/sliding away from the motor after relocking. I superglued the spring to the motor and that fixed the problem
WILLIAM where can u buy rubber keypad, on of my tenants took off one of the numbers and it’s getting water inside and shorting, have it apart and working but need that part
you are the 11 thousand'th person to point this out, the interior mechanism was cycled repeatedly in the field before this lock ever got to the bench, it is not the interior button
This lock wasn't broken. The lock thinks the switch is in the unlocked position. Hook it up to a door with the installation guide and you're fine. But going through the guts like that is how you're gonna break it. I did that on mine when I was younger and broke a bunch of wires, please be careful with these amazing locks!
![[1049] Schlage Electronic Door Latch Picked and Gutted (Model FE575)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/oZLNQl0bk1c/mqdefault.jpg)
![[FIXED] Schlage Keypad Deadbolt Not Working in Cold Weather](/img/1.gif)
It’s not just the thumbturn being turned to the unlocked position y’all. That was all checked on site before it ever got replaced and this brought back to the shop.
When black microswitch is unlocked (depressed) as seen @ 7:14 it is not supposed to electrically move further with a code like he is trying to in this video. Actuator has engaged at the battery plugin because it is set to the unlocked position. It engages the small pin for the handle when the battery is hooked up so that the knob can turn the slider once battery is connected. It may of been broken at the clients place because the long spring needed adjustment to the next plastic tab at the center of the cavity the spring sits within.
I have this Link system in multiple Spots with probably 10 door handle locks FE599 style. Your video was great, thanks. I couldn't figure out where the short spring went when I unscrewed the back panel. I unscrewed the back panel and moved things around and even thought of buying the small solenoid on Ali express because they only cost like .80 cents plus shipping but figured after taking everything apart and trouble shooting I would put it back together and see if the darn thing worked and it DID. Schlages help was you have reached the life-cycle of the lock and time to buy the new rendition that does not work on the link platform FE789. For those that want to fix it I would give it a try and take it apart and the worst case scenario is you still have a broken door set. In all my failures with this lock set over the years where I have just tossed them in the garbage and bought a new one this wasn't hard. I should have looked further and taken them apart. They stopped making these so its nice to have it working again.
I have the very similar FE599 (Z-wave version). It has worked very reliably for 10+ years. Suddenly it would not actuate (lock or unlock) from either the keypad or the indoor lock/unlock buttons. I disassembled it in a very similar fashion to the video and the motor seemed to work OK on booting (connection to power). So I cleaned everything and gave it a bit of graphite lubricant and reassembled. Suddenly it was not working again. I found that after manually moving the spring/motor spindle it would work a few times. So I concluded that it was a bad spot on the commutator/brushes inside the motor. I sprayed contact cleaner into the three tiny holes in the motor and worked the spindle to get it "cleaned" (I hoped). I reassembled the lock and now it seems to be working fine. For those who may not have noticed, a key aspect of reassembly is to place the spring on the "sweet spot" of the peg in the little trough. If the spring is placed too far one way or the other, either the locking or unlocking will become unreliable. In my case, the peg needed to be at the 13th turn of the spring, counting from the motor. The motors (probably used) are available from AliExpress.com.
I haven’t finished the video and now I’m a little relieved of my stress (for having to repair mine) by watching this “easily amused”. I’m upvoting this! 😂
Thank you. I took mine apart to paint the outside and had no idea how to put it back together again. Your video saved my life.
OMG THANK YOU FOR THIS! I opened the lock to re-key the cylinder and a brass pin fell out. Couldn't figure out what it was for, and obviously couldn't put it back together without the pin...Called Schlage to ask them for a schematic and the absolutely refused to send me one. So I was totally stuck. Until I found and watched this video! At about the 4 minute mark there it was ! Thanks, bud!
Matt Kilbourne glad it helped!
Same here. Didn’t help I had a few beers before opening it up. I was lost. Didn’t have my cheater glasses either to figure out where the pin went.
Now , tomorrow I can try again…. Sober!
I disassembled my FE-695 Schlage lock halves and placed them on a table. Keypad is down and horizontal. Look down the hollow square tube. There are two rectangular holes at the bottom. You want to lube the pin, spring, and slide at the top hole. Using Liquid Wrench white foaming spray from a big box hardware store, slide the red nozzle down the sq.tube. Place two Q-Tips down the tube to seal near the bottom of the hollow sq tube. Rotate the manual latch to unlock and listen for the motor and slide to move. As quick as possible, squirt a small amount of white grease into the bottom of the sq tube. Unlock the latch. Repeat once more with a second fast squirt. DO NOT OVER FILL. Withdraw the tips and nozzle. Cycle the latch on and off six times. Listen for the remote motor to run. It will run. Cut 3" of black electrical tape and cover the wires from the outside half for protection from abrasions. Reassemble the rest with the long top of the hollow sq tube being horizontal. Finish the assembly of the two halves of the lock. Done. Test the lock. It should work, at least temporarily, for awhile or even years. Get a spare lock, just in case. Presto! Fixed the pin friction problem. Some assembly required. Cheap fix. $10 max. White grease does not freeze in the winter.
I just fixed mine after watching this video. I think your issue is def not with the motor, which works fine, and not the motherboard computer, it is simply that the lock/unlock switch needs to be turned to lock.
Hi you have to turn the lock to lock and then try the code. I think you will find that the motor will work then. Also the plastic actuator thing-a-magig needs to be all the way down before assembly
I have 3 of these. They can be a bugger putting back together
augoldfinger it worked after i done what you said, put it in the lock position with the key in... you saved me a lot of time and $ thanks
I wish this worked
There's nothing wrong with that. That slide plate needs to be pushed up all the way, then spring over pin.
The latch locking pin with spring needs to be up so the dark gray slide Upside down U pushed down when activated. The red plunger just pushes against the internal casing.
The problem you didn't look for was an adjustable latch plate. 2-1/2 2/3/4 I believe, been a while. If it's 2-3/4 on a 2-1/2 hole, lock out/in .
If the latch plate thingy is broken, and you found a little piece of metal you didn't know where it came from, it's probably from that latch, two screw plate thingy, IMHO. ✌️
Thanks.
Dude you just saved my marriage, I took this apart to paint the outside black and Pieces came out and I had no idea how to put it back together, 3 years after your video you saved the day, thank you!!!
Great :)
Saved mine too!!
Thank you for this. I had opened one of these and I guess the little pin with the spring popped out and when I reassembled it, it would not unlock even though the motor was activating. After watching this, I understood where this piece went and was able to get it working again. BTW- I doubt your motor is bad. It wiggles and jumps like that when it is triggered by the keyboard and not just at power-up. I think the issue with your lock is that logic board.
I've installed two of these so far. Cylinder comes out easy to rekey or master key. What I like about it it the auto locking feature. I have them installed on doors that have to be relocked after each opening like a storage room knob. The advantage is there's no key for the staff to lose....😎
Interesting video, thanks !
Mine stopped working after 15 years of reliable service. (Great lock!) I could hear it activate the mechanism when I punched the code, but it didn't sound as loud as usual. I took it apart and put it back together and it works again. I think the spring had just "jumped the track" somehow or the little plastic piece that hooks into the spring had worked its way into a position where it didn't have enough travel to deactivate the lock when the motor was triggered.
Me too. Took it apart. Put it back together. Now works. For how long? Who knows?!
Same, but I think my issue was the brass pin that the motor pushes on to lock the Handel so that when you twist it opens the door.
I had the same issue (the solenoid would actuate when plugging in the battery but not when entering the code). It turns out the manual unlock dial relay was engaged thus the lock always thought it was unlocked. You can see there is a relay switch on the plastic back side so maybe if that relay switch is not functioning your lock thinks it is already "unlocked" when you type the user code.
That is exactly what was wrong with mine! THank you for this comment.
Thank you! This saved me as I was tasked with fixing two of these today!
I just took this same model apart because the motor would run and the egress handle would operate properly, the ingress handle would open the door while in the locked position.
Some of the time the ingress handle would fail to open with the door in the unlocked position. The pin with the small spring that goes into the channel that allows the ingress handle to operate the mechanism was gummed up with old lubricant. This lock faced the west for 15 years and I'm thinking the heat dryed the lubricant. After cleaning and a little wd40 the lock works as designed.
Hey Thanks. I came across this video after I took mine apart and was able to get it back together thanks to you. LIFE SAVER !!!
Just bought one of these...install was straightforward BUT couldn't get the lock to accept ANY of the codes from the sticker on the instruction sheet. Hard reset changed nothing. Customer support closed on Sunday...of course. Two hours of Googling ensued...watched this very informative vid which didn't directly address my problem...but did convince me that EVERYTHING else about my lock worked as advertised except that it would take the sticker codes. In the process of reading this entire thread I remember someone mentioning that there was another sticker on the inside of the lock...uninstalled it and sure enough there it was! DIFFERENT CODES on interior sticker! They worked fine. Problem solved. Human error at the factory. Moral of the story...check BOTH stickers during install.
I just had one of those that a client had taken apart on their own. They put it back together and it didn't work. Thanks for the video, because I was able to determine that the spring on the little plunger was missing. Unfortunately, Schlage customer service was NO help at all. They told me because it was taken apart it was not under warranty. I explained that I realized it wasn't, that I was just looking for parts to fix it. No joy.
yeah, they won’t be sending parts out for these cause they never wanted them taken apart ;)
@@selock SAD part is that often they can be fixed with just some inexpensive parts. Oh well.
This helped me fix mine. Saved me 130$.
Thanks!
I just bought a FE595 D Cam 619 ACC to fix my current drooping lever. I noted that it has a Lifetime warranty. It comes with a 5 pin C override, which I'm going to look at replacing with an Everest core I have.
won’t work, they use special little cams now :(
@@selock Yip, just saw that. I was surprised to find spool pins in the bible and anti drill plate before the first pin. Still looks ok.
Seeing the inside was super helpful as mine fell apart and I don't get to see where things were. Watching this I was able to piece it back together.
The key is getting that pin to fit into the radius of the U shaped plastic part on the slide. When putting back together make sure the slide is furthest away from center post. This keeps the pin "out" of the keyway so you can pull outer handle without actuating the inner handle.
When you PIN code in, the motor turns, spins the spring which lifts/slides the tray "towards" the handle post by turning against the spring guideway post (like an Archimedi's screw). When the tray slides towards the handle post, the small post with the spring will slot into the keyway, engaging the inner handle, letting you in.
Had the same issue. Typing in the unlock combination did not move the spring, nothing happened. Thought the motor is bad as in this video! Actual solution came when I gave up, put the lock back together and installed it, so I can go and get a new lock. There is a lock / unlock knob on the inside panel. When I turned this a couple of times, everything started working again. I am no electrician to know how it could affect but it did ...
Arthur Pakkas, I did the same thing. The grey plastic opening labeled 1 on the battery plastic has to be turned down. I can clearly see in this video it is turned to the side (same problem I had).
Very cool.. I like the internal processes.. thanks Jason!! Keep up the good work!!! Stay safe!
Thank you, just seeing how it operated helped me solve my issue
Thanks! I took mine apart and the pin and spring that locks the shaft when the unlock is actuated fell out, I couldn’t see where it went. Appreciate you posting.
Thanks I was like everybody else I didn't know where that little pin went that's why I looked up your video to start with so thanks for that..I don't know if anybody mentioned you have to make sure your 9 V battery is 9 V or better a lot of times it won't let the lock work if it's below 9 V I take care of 30 of them on my Motel doors and we get locked out a lot with weak batteries....
Thx for the help. I opened it and lost the spring. Didn’t realize it!! Just fashioned one from a retractable pen.
great! Glad it helped
The solenoid/motor seems ok. I think there is either a defective scr or relay on the board or the board itself. The boot up test may fire the solenoid differently from the keypad entry. To make sure it's not the solenoid, just put a voltmeter on the solenoid plug wires and see if it's being fed voltage when a keypad entry is made.🤔👍🏽
They get a little dusty inside and then they don’t slide up and down right. I take mine apart and put some 5w30 motor oil on the slides pin and the spring then they seem to work great after that. I have ten of them and seems like one or two need oil each year
I know this is way late, but maybe it will help someone else. The motor is obviously fine, the problem is most likely caused by the lock/unlock knob position. I just experimented on my lock and I found the unlocked position to cause the motor not to run. Or it could be the circuit board, but since it actives the servo when the battery is plugged in that does not seem likely.
Bob Campbell several people have mentioned the Lock was in the unlocked position but it was only because I had switched it back and forth (on site) many times :) this one was fully exposed to weather/rain directly on it for many years and was likely the circuit board glitch. Thanks for watching though :)
I had one do the same thing. I wiped all programing out of the keypad and started working again. The fact that it works once with battery plug in tells you that its a keypad / programing problem not the solenoid (IMHO) 🤔
1tired MF-R hard reset it three times to no avail :( it was heavily exposed to rain etc so yeah probably a issue in the board
I think (mechanically) it's fine, but there's a vacation mode that prevents the lock from accepting a valid code.
(I've not yet had an opportunity to confirm the below steps myself.)
Searching now, I've not seen mention of it in the manuals (of randomly encountered models), but have found third-party documentation that says to enter vacation mode:
1. lock
2. press "Schlage"
3. enter programming code
4. press "4" and wait for two beeps + green flashes
And another 40 minutes of searching have found third party documentation to get out of vacation mode:
1. press "Schlage"
2. enter programming code
3. wait for two beeps + green flashes
---
My new neighbours got locked out (w/ a valid code) and I suspect the previous occupant set vacation mode when they left to avoid having someone entering w/out the key, and the door they'd exited had a lock set to *randomly* "secure" itself after a delay (they were unaware of) . [redacted reason for urgency] and unable to find the appropriate tool to open the lock, I ended up disassembling the offending door from the outside with an improvised tool.
from the description you gave and from the video. I think you will find that the motor spins the spring and the coils press the actuator. like most of the others I also think the circuit board has an issue activating the motor.
Where can I get just the flexible rubber keypad for the FE595 lock? The rest of the lock is fine. Your videos are very clear and the keypad looks easy to replace.
Great video Jason. Hope you feel better, the pollen hear on the east coast is already rockin and my allergies are firing off..gonna be a long spring.
I followed what you did. You may need to try a new code or the factory code. My issue … I think was the Pin and small spring some how came misaligned. My code would activate the motor (could hear it) but my handle was not engaged. I reassembled and it’s working . Your video helped me with the proper placement of parts
How did you get the pin and small spring back in? Mine keeps falling out. What does it align to?
After many hours of unsuccessful repair, I found this post with video and found the solution. The actuator motor turns the spring when you first install the battery, but it did not work when I enter the code. I noticed a comment regarding the thumb-turn and I then tried turning the gray oval plastic cam on the plastic inside mounting plate which was facing sideways (turning the switch on) and I turned it facing vertical. This allowed the switch next to the cam to be in the off position and everything is now working as it should. I hope this helps someone!
I need to replace the keypad membrane on a FE595. Schlage did send me a new membrane. I should have watched a new videos first as the pin and spring popped out. Glad im testing on a trial device and not my friends lock.
SAY WHAT?
what do you mean they sent you a new membrane, how in the heck crap did you pull that off?
@@selock a kind email extolling the greatness that is Schalge (sucking up)
Very nice to see inside one of these jason my friend very cool😊👍👍😊😊👍😎
For the love of God don't lose that tiny spring on the pin in the center. You will hate your life. Just spent an hour crawling around on my floor searching for it. That tiny spring is essential!!!!
When inside lock is up and down. Vertical for some. Wont work when lock facing left and right. Horizontal to some seems to be fine. I have fe595.
And POOF, the cam pin spring evaporated!
Your motor appears fine. I see 1 or 2 microswitches, You may want to try pushing 1 the other or both. Look close at board, may be a fine crack or cold solder joint.
Yeah, I woulda applied battery power to the doodad b/c it looks ok
This is exactly what mine is doing! I can factory reset it and put in a new 4 digit code and the green light just beeps and blinks, but no unlocking the lock!!!
Nice quality product
It looks like the metal pin holds up the plastic assembly. Currently working on one and the plastic assembly isn't in the correct position. Just researching before cracking it open. Thanks for the video.
I got it! I think. Gotta get everything back on the rails and time that long motorized spring just right with the plastic assembly. Then keep that metal pin and spring up right. Actually I had stand up both halves to get it back together right.
Thanks for the video.
I have one of these on my shed, and I’m considering one (the elan lever “light commercial) version for a building that uses an L-4 keyway. I wonder if a six pin cylinder would fit?
No it wont
@@selock , thank you. Let me know if you know of any electronic levers that can accept six pin cylinders, and can be manually put into passage mode. That is my current predicament, as the commercial locks I’ve seen all seem to have a complex way of doing passage mode.
Probably because, the lock is already in an unlocked state, the lock didn't spin when you enter the code, If you keep the lock in a locked state, the motor would have probably spinned. You can set the lock to a - locked or unlocked state using a button that appears on the inner side of the lock.
The button was toggled multiple times, but not nearly as many times as I’ve replied to in this video. The lock is broken, keypad glitch
This further solidifies my belief that I need to stick with mechanical locks. Those fancy and convenient electronic locks are nice but there is more parts that can break.
cloudstrifeification You always have the option of using the provided key and it mechanically operates the lock.
I have a similar issue, think there was a short when I was reinstalling. Its not the pin, I've tested the switch, done the reset and everything, and I get voltage going to the motor when I enter correct code, it just won't activate-- even tried it directly. I've got 8 of these things, and each of them have had problems I needed to fix, usually the pin falling out...
so where do you go to order these parts? That solenoid in particular
Pntballa30 you cannot order parts for these
I would put a piece of tape with a flag end, plug in, note direction, If you only see it rotate 1 direction no matter what you do, I would follow wires to the board and follow trace to first parts(last parts before motor), since motor is 2 wires, polarity is reversed to change direction, could be dpdt relay, diodes, or transistors. Good Luck
After 8 years mine just stopped working... same thing the code goes in and turns green but the lock normally clicks once then you can move the handle and open the door... now it will not click until I use the key then I can unlock the door. I hate having to toss this in a landfill just to buy another one! I wish we still had the ability to fix things.
since having filmed this and based on others I’ve replaced since then, I’ve started advising these have a 7-9 year lifespan on doors exposed to the weather, which honestly for the price of these isn’t bad (in the residential electronic lock world anyway)
farewell to yours ;)
@@selock Its not bad... but mines been inside the whole time. Originally used for my dorm room door and now for a room the kids are not allowed in cause they make a mess and leave it.
Great vid! Im thinking it might be the circuit board not telling the motor to actuate.... just a thought because it does work when first plugged in. Idk. But thanks for the video bud!
I think the solenoid doodad is ok also. No connection from keypad to the doodad, tho.
how long is that spring on the pin that opens the door? I took mine apart and lost the spring, I plan on using a pen spring and just cutting it but not sure how long to make it.
What was their response?! 😄
My spring loaded metal button fell out. I saw from your video where it goes. You saved me a bundle!! Thanks!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching and letting me know it helped :)
My actuator won’t actuate with key presses or with the interior switch. Do you recommend a different model?
Typically no, if yours lasted over 6-7 years just replace same :)
What has been your experience as far as getting parts from Schlage? Did you ever get an answer about a replacement servo? I have had a few locks that would have easily been fixable, but Schlage won't send me parts. I am licensed and insured and yet they say they only work directly with customers. Any thoughts?
I never tried because I know they won’t send parts out.
@@selock Thanks. I'm still fairly new at my own business, so I appreciate your experience...and your RUclips channel.
Very helpful, thanks man!
You are a life saver
ycdocs120 hopefully watermelon flavored cause they are the best! ;) glad this helped :)
I thought these could be programmed to not allow the keypad to open the door. Force to use key. Was this just a programming change?
Vacation mode, programming number 4 disables user codes
Had basically the same problem with the 'sister' schlage deadbolt unit a few weeks ago - another video showed how to fix it, and it basically boils down to the spring on the solenoid eventually perhaps compressing from constant use (and maybe also from contracting in cold weather) meaning the spring was no longer causing the locking pin to engage all the way. The fix was basically as easy as opening it up as far as you have yours opened now, and gently stretching / reseating the main spring such that it correctly moves the mechanism far enough. (The unit i'm referring to is the BE365 keypad deadbolt, fwiw).
That is white part runs on the spring and it locks and unlocks the lock
Check one of these apart to re kid and it won't function when I put it back in something is not put together correctly unfortunately I took the whole backing playable off and everything instead of just popping the door open to get the lock cylinder. I can hear the servile working but it will not the outside handle will not open the latch nor neither with the key or the code. Coworkers to on me it's toast because I took the bag played off And there is no way to save it. Ava hard time believing that's true can you help me on this one please?
I fixed one of that type at my workplace for six dollars by replacing the battery, a lock smith wanted $300.00 to replace it.
D Sloop That's funny because a brand new one is about $120
Is it possible to get the plastic part ?
These aren’t made to be serviced so no parts available
if the engine rotate during micro controller booting. The engine is fine. But how can you open something that isn't closed.
thinking that once the whole unit is assembled, there might be a reed switch or hall sensor, giving the micro a feedback signal, while the spring is dancing
Thanks for the info on these locks. Where can you get replacement parts for these locks?? I got two good locks that need replacement touch pads but I can’t find them anywhere? Ant info would be greatly appreciated.
Peter D'Ambra everyone seems to agree this one needs a new touchpad too. It would have to be directly through Schlage and they seem to have no interest in selling parts for these, but I actually can try to verify that with a Schlage Rep
SE Lock and Key thanks Jason for the reply. When you see that Rep you can tell him I won’t be installing these anymore because of the keypad issue and the inability to get replacement parts.
I have 15 of these. I have a problem with people tearing off a digit from the pad. Need a new pad. Where can I get some?
How do I get that same part for same model
Anyone know where I can find the spring that’s attached to the motor
Go to a locksmith and see if they have saved non-functional locks for spare parts. I have not found the internal parts for sale, but I have never called Schlage. The silicone buttons and the latch are definitely something to save.
This guy sounds like John Waters
I have one of these and the actual spring broke in half. Was working great and then broke. $129 at Home Depot when the $1 spring could be replaced. Any ideas?
Solder it will work. But after 3 yrs i bet you moved on. Lol
Lots of fun
It is still not clear what the problem is here. Would be helpful to directly test the inductor/solenoid to determine if the control board is faulty?
planetmikeus it’s been pretty much decided (by general consensus here) it’s the control board/keypad. I have since found out Schlage does not offer replacements.
Must be poor quality control by Schlage. I have installed 7 of these and oddly the one used inside was the one that failed this way. Also another weakness to this lock is the Thumbturn overide on the back of the FE595 is electronic and not mechanical.
With mine, it was the spring which was disconnecting itself/sliding away from the motor after relocking. I superglued the spring to the motor and that fixed the problem
I don't get it.... I did not see that you fixed the lock...??
Stephen Beck sure didn’t, after a couple hours messing with it never had luck. This is a “What’s Inside” as the title suggests, not “How to Fix”
You have to do the direction 1st
its the rubber keypad not making contact. replace pad and clean contacts
WILLIAM that didn’t work for this one, good thing to try initially tho!
WILLIAM where can u buy rubber keypad, on of my tenants took off one of the numbers and it’s getting water inside and shorting, have it apart and working but need that part
Your indoor lock mechanism is open thats y the servo motor was locked out
you are the 11 thousand'th person to point this out, the interior mechanism was cycled repeatedly in the field before this lock ever got to the bench, it is not the interior button
Go on line
DUDE, YOU HAVE TO PUSH THE "SCHLAGE" KEY AFTER ENTERING THE CODE.
that will reset it.
This lock wasn't broken. The lock thinks the switch is in the unlocked position. Hook it up to a door with the installation guide and you're fine. But going through the guts like that is how you're gonna break it. I did that on mine when I was younger and broke a bunch of wires, please be careful with these amazing locks!
Jamestube 8439 it was broken, however thanks for chiming in. We are a locksmith storefront and are well aware of what we are doing with locks :)
@@selock Well it sucks that it was broken. That's a shame when you buy something and it breaks.
Jamestube 8439 it had been on the door exposed to elements for several years so they got a little while out of it :)
@@selock Oh that makes sense. I would hate to buy a product and then not have it function the way it's supposed.