Very helpful so thanks for posting. I think it would’ve been better to explain the benefits and use of a capacitor in the beginning versus the end, but I finally understood.
+Just Trickky I was curious about that myself. Seems the microprocessor in this cap turns off when LED activity stops rather than a particular voltage is reached. If they had actually connected the cap to the battery, the LED readout would have stabilized to battery voltage and turned off.
First thank you for the info. It was a great way to show how to hook a capacitor up to a sound system with the car board example, it mainly help because you can see everything on one area and I was able to transfer that example into my car and it work perfectly,thanks again.
That was an okay video guys thank you for the information, but my question remains, can I use a battery trickle charger to charge my 10 farad capacitor
You guy's did so well... Very clean and esay to understand. To watcher... Take note to plug de capacitor closer than possible to the amp... Then else the cap will only used as a filter.....
Well guys, thank you so much for truly clearing up any misconceptions about why a cap should be used, my only question would be then if a half farad cap cleared up the alt noise then why are there such large caps and cap banks on the market if they're mainly for filtering alternator noise? And the nvx looks identical to the pyle 5 farad except it has the terminal block (very nice) and the smoked plexi.
I bought this same Cap. Charged it per the instructions. The volt meter on the cap turned off. Then it came back on. Now it’s off again. Everything works. System sounds great. Headlights in my 2019 Tundra don’t dim. So what’s wrong with the cap?? Did I do something wrong? Or is it just an expensive distribution block now?
If not connected, I saw the voltage slowly going down. Does it go all the way to 0 and have to charge with the charging tool again ? Or once installed it holds voltage
Allen, I am building a 02 Chevy Tahoe. I just put the stereo system in it. Now it has a pioneer AVIC 5200 nex double din head unit, each door has a 6.5” speaker and a 1” tweeter with a crossover that has 3 settings +3db,0db,-3db.i have no idea what sounds better yet. Haven’t messed with them. They are Polk audio component sets DXI6501. I have a new Rockford Fosgate prime 300.4 4channel amp running the component sets. It has 2 sets of rca’s front and rear hooked up to it off the deck. For the bass I have a 18” custom built sub that I had running off my old ass db1000.1 Punch amp. I had stupid ass alternator noise! It made me loose my mind trying to find it. I changed out the deck, new RCA’S new grounds straight to the clean frame. I even built a complete new wiring harness from the fuse box to the deck and didn’t use any factory wire. Got it all done and turned it on and it was gone. Next morning I hopped in to head to work, fired up the truck and there it was loud as ever!! I almost blew a gasket! My db1000 was makin a ton of noise also ,so I gave it about 4 hammer fist hits and that quit that but now it has the power of a 100 watt amp so I fucked it up somehow. So I bought a new amp a massive audio N4 claims 2000rms. I seriously doubt that.... but brah,,,,,,, The hum is still there as soon as you turn the key on but only for a few seconds then gone. What the fuck it it!!!! I just picked up the 10 fared hybrid capacitor , same brand as in this video. Got it off a friend for 40 bucks. Fosgate sells the same exsact one but says there logo and it’s like 500! So I have that to put in and I’m going to switch from 4 gauge wire to 0awg wire. My friend also has a huge kinetic battery he’s going to hook me up with. For like 125 bucks so I’m hoping the cap will get rid of it. I have been messing with audio for like 20 years so I know better then to run the rcas next to the power and all that. I think part of the hum is coming off the alternator and thru the firewall so I might Change it also. If you or anyone has any ideas throw them my way. I have not ground the rca to the radio basket. I think that’s ghetto so not doing that . That’s part of the reason I said f it and bought a new deck in the first place.
I totally dig the table car, I wouldn't recommend driving it at high speeds. My question is, I don't exactly have a voltage issue. I do know that I'm running 1000 w rms on a stock alternator and a single battery in a 2019 Kia. I'm hoping this will reduce the risk of killing my alternator and battery, but if nothing else I'd like to Know if it would potentially draw any more power than I'm already taking
Great presentation learned a lot. I have a question I am building a buggy and will be installing lights with delays. I like to use a capacitor or two to power my lights and possibly other electronic. Can this be done,? I would like to have the power when needed to power like head lights running lights, fog lights. Is a capacitor just for boosting amplifiers or they can be used like for my project??? TY in advance.
Bernie Jimenez caps are not battery's. They only store a minimal about it power they are designed to let out that power in a split second when the stereos bass drops a hard note. If you charged a cap and hooked a light up to it it would shine full brightness for less than a second before you could see it quickly getting dimmer until dead about 5-10 seconds total depending on size of cap.
Hello Sonic Electronix thank you for sharing yall knowledge with us. I've been out of the stereo game for years and I'm wanting to put my system in my 1985 suburban. My capacitor been sitting for a long time do yall suggest buying a new one or purchase the tool? If you recommend buying the charging tool like you have. Where can I purchase the tool that you guys are using thank you.
I have a 4 farad cap, I am charging it but it was a over night charge and still it has not hit the full charge. I use a DMM on a 20 v and test it and still it is only at about 7.56 v. I’m using the resistor that it was supplied with. Am I doing something wrong???
Table car looks siick!! but it looks like its mad out of wood, so a metal bar where the drill bits are to close the loop and actually show us how the devices look like in use would be better and a more realistic setup, perhaps ending the vid with a preformance of the decice, other than that, keep doing what you guys are doing, I learned a lot!!
How did you guys make the grounding table? I have been trying to figure it out for the longest time. I ended up buying a 30v 10amp variable power supply. But a car table would be AMAZING and would make an awesome conversation piece
I watch this channel for comedy purposes. First they say put the Cap anywhere you want,... then they say put as close to the amp as possible. The second is the CORRECT way as a Cap discharges instantly and you dont want to lose any of the basically useless charge. Put in a second battery and an isolater instead of a cap. And do the BIG THREE, your car will thank you
Thanks for uploading this video. I just received my Stinger 5-Farad Capacitor and was searching high and low for the charging bulb that used to come with caps. Even the directions didn’t mention what the little circuit board was for! Do you have Stinger’s ear to mention updating their instruction booklet?
Need help. i have a 12v battery and a 3.0f cap. I'm running a 1200 sundown amp which needs around 14.5v to function properly. my alt puts out around 15v. Here's my question, my cap came with a test light rather than a resistor, so when i pre-charge my cap it's only at 12v. So should i attempt to charge my cap with the test light and the engine running so it's at a higher voltage??? Basically how do i pre-charge my cap into the 14s to properly supply my power hungry sundown amp? Or should a pre-charge of 12v be sufficient to prime the cap? With no cap amp is cutting out at high volume due to voltage drops.
Thanks for the video I’m having a lot of feedback noise or whining noise every time I install a capacitor this is the second one I have installed brand new same noise if I bypass the capacitor no noise at all can you help.? By the way I am running to separate ground wires
1st rule I learned is never hook up ground untiil your finished conecting positive, the reason for this is you accidentally touch a hot wire to any metal (ground) you get arc!! Connect all grounds last. Same as when installing a battery in your car!!
5:34 You guys can't' even pretend to know anything about electronics well at all. Demo or not speaker wire is not satisfactory for that purpose. What I really wanted to say is that, while ground loops can be difficult to understand at first they get easier to grasp if you READ everything that you can about them. The main thing to understand is that as an "engineer" or "installer" you either create a ground loop or you dont. They don't mysteriously appear like some sort of gremlin. Where you install your devices ground has absolutely nothing to do with it. The devices in your demonstration all need to be connected to the same negatively charged point. It doesn't matter if you connect them 20 feet apart, right next to each other or on the same negative terminal. The location of the connection that your devices have to the negative is inconsequential with regard to ground loops. If you really want to know what a ground loop is then either read up or ask me. I hate to call you out on this but you guys are slacking. Maybe you should go to electronics school or even join the US Navy or something. They'll teach you what is what. Jeesh, the only loops in here.... LOL. No harm meant. Best regards.
I don't know but sometimes a cap works because I had a mono amp that was going in protective mode , even after big three and audio battery upgrade ! so I got a cap and the amp don't even get warm anymore
Question. Just like yours in this video once I disconnected the relay to charge the cap the cap started discharging as seen in your video with the lcd screen. Then eventually it says low. Does that mean it is discharged? I don’t want to see the cap discharging my battery once connected nor do I want to hurt the cap. I did put a meager across the terminals and it reads nothing after sitting and it says low.
Pedro Rocha a cap won't do anything for a lighting system. They put out a massive amount of energy in one quick short burst and that's it. It's for when your song plays a very heavy deep note in a song and the amp calls for an extra boost of power for that split second. You need a bigger battery I'd go with an xs power deep cycle. You need the extra watt hours a deep cycle holds.
A capacitor won’t hurt if you have a very bright light bar or what’s ever is drawing a large amp Pad. But all it will do is help it when starting. This is why pumps use cap as as a boost to get the motor started.
Hey guys - thanks for the video. In the process of upgrading the sound system in my truck DYI style and basically have no experience or knowledge. So I am learning as I go. Next subject is how to tune the system and set filters to the different speakers so they get a clean freq signal... anyway...I just bought a T-Spec V8 3.0 cap and it didnt come with the resistor bulb. So I have 2 questions for you; 1. What kind of charging tool is that and do you know where I can buy it? 2. Can I use my automotive battery charger as a power source for the initial charge vs hooking up to my truck battery? Thanks for your help and for posting the video. And the table car IS SWEET! I am going to scour CL and the web and see if I can find a good deal on one!
hey guys really like all the videos you guys put out the cap that you are using is it one of the top of the line or one of the 30.00 dollar ones, also im intrested in putting a cap on my motorcycle i am limited in space, i do have bags wondering how or if anything will it benefit me in installing one,going back the cap shown in vid is it 10.5 in tall.hmm!!!
Hey guys I watch a lot of your videos. I need with hooking up a Loc to my 2016 ford fusion se. I can't find a 12volt wire for the Loc turn on and off. Can you help me ?
At 9:10 engine whining from the distributor can be eliminated with some systems by simply taking a piece of wire stripping the shielding and wrapping it around the RCA on the back of the stereo and let it hang there twisted at the bottom. There's videos here on RUclips that show how that works.
Why the charging green light dont go off ? Have it connected 20 mins or more. Its a stinger 10 farad capacitor.. does it take longer to full charge ???
Since the nvx capacitor has a built in distribution block can I wire the neg from the body of the car to the cap and cap to the amp? Or is it best just to wire 2 separate negs frame to amp and frame to cap
Put the cap in series with anything that runs off of 12v. when the thing turns off, your cap is charged (make sure its in series... not parallel. google if your not sure)
Any car 12 volt light will work. Hook up one wire from the light to the batter positive and the other wire from the light into the cap positive. The charging pc that they come with is nothing more than a resistor not letting the full 12 volts thru at one time. When the light goes completely out the cap is charged.
So that means besides supplying power to the amps I can also set up a relay for the remote turn from the + of the capacitor! I watced vid this to get an idea of the power distribution from it. Thanks!
Thank you sooo much for this video! I had my battery die and so did the capacitor. So after replacing my battery with a optima battery. After 9 years of the capacitor being installed it had never died completely until now. I had total brain fart of how to charge it. Thanks again!
Running a 1000rms amp in a 04 chevy diesel so it already has two batteries in the engine bay. Would you guys recommend another battery for the amp or just a capacitor and or bigger alternator? Thank you
Do you have to run a separate power cable for the capacitor coming off the battery? Or can you just run 1 into the capacitor and then split it into the amplifier?
Is there a reason why you charged the cap via speaker wire directly from the battery instead of charging it via your power wire and the ground you had set at 6:05? As long as you're running it through the resistor on the charging tool wouldn't it virtually be the same circuit?
+mattyfizzle Right, it wouldn't matter what wire you use if you're just charging it up, very low current, so they just used the speaker wire because it was easier and it worked and it was just for the demonstration. However, it goes without saying.. don't install you're capacitor using speaker wire...
hay! can you address any issues with over using or under using capacitors? ie. too big of a cap hindering amps being released to the amp. is this a myth? any input?
I have a 2000 watt inverter will this work for when I have a high current pull to help buffer the surge from the battery? If so should it be in parallel or series with the battery?
I recently installed a fosgate rfc 1 single farard cap and this cap has no lcd display included , how dose one go about obtaining a lcd voltage readout and installing it??
+stephen, hui Your capacitor has a digital display like the one in the video and only charges up to 9 volts? Even with the car running...? Out of curiosity, what capacitor do you have? You know the brand and model?
+Sonic Electronix but every things is ok I have a 2 l7 15 on audio pipe 1800.1 the voltage it was dropping but I have my cap on it never get lower 13volt
You should have the car running while charging the cap, that or use a car charger directly into the cap if it's going to take a while. It's also possible the volt meter is just a piece of crap, at 9volts your car battery likely wouldn't have started after that. Seems fairly likely since Audio Pipe isn't exactly the best brand out there.
Can I install a JL Audio 300 watt r.m.s. mono amp. To a single JL 12" sub, in a Lexus hybrid? Will it destroy my electric battery? Breden and Allen, I love your cable car ground! ;)
He actually hook the roll wire up and the thing never got a charge from the battery after the charging tool. That was the negative cable and that is why it was discharging smh he was about to blow something up lol
I heard you guys say not to hook grounds together because it could cause a noise ground loop. I was under the impression you should always keep all grounds connected together. What up? OH yeah cool table car display!
There is alot of negative misinformation in this thread. If your intention is to use a 3F cap to run more than 3KW RMS then you will definitely want to upgrade your power source, i.e. a battery and your alternator as your additional battery will require a larger generator, i.e. alternator, to charge. The point of a cap here is the same as that in an ac/dc converter. It is meant to compensate during low periods nut will experience diminishing returns. Most of the time a 1F cap on a
I did the big three... I upgraded my alternator... i have a second battery... I drop the bass in the mix, my voltage meter on my truck says around 12-13v and my lights dim... I ordered a 3 farad cap and im hoping it will solve the issue... is there anything else i should revisit. Like Grounding or something...
+Bully ThaKidd If you did all those upgrades and you're still getting dimming then yes, absolutely go through and check all your grounds. Sounds like you could be losing some voltage to a bad connection somewhere.
Specifically the ground cable from your battery to the chassis, it should be two wires of greater or equal gauge to the ones coming off the positive terminal. Also make sure the battery terminals and connectors are clean for both positive and negative. The grounding to your amp is probably fine. Since you upgraded your alternator, you may also want to replace the cable going from the alt to the battery with a thicker gauge, but that wire isn't a fix for your problem, it's just recommended as a matter of cause. Unless of course they dim over time, not just when the beats drop. In that case you should definitely suspect the alternator wire.
I have a 900w amplifier and I'm having unwanted noise from the speakers. I'm thinking of buying a capacitor but wouldn't know which one to pick. Is a 2 farad a good choice?
Unwanted noise is usually hum from the power cables being too close to the signal cables. It has nothing to do with a capacitor and generally a 900w amplifier alone isn't enough to warrant a cap unless you have a failing battery, in which case you should get that taken care of first. If you have power cables traveling on the same side of the car as your signal leads you should change that right away, you'll see a noticeable improvement. If not that then you may have a bad quality junction, splitter, or crappy RCA plugs/wires causing that problem. Test the resistance of the signal cables and see if any terminal is reading high relative to the others.
Great video, i have same problem. Mine is strange though. I just moved from Los Angeles to Chicago and have a 1500 watt amp on the internal speakers and a 2k watt pushing 2 12"'s. all was good in LA but after 1 month of being here my sound started dropping out. I thought it was my battery but after swapping out 8 batteries in 12 months i started watching you tube videos and realized it's my Alternator. I bought a 250 volt alternator and the first day i was out Banging and all was good then on my way to work 2 days later back to the same, sound dropping out with that fuzzy tone like a battery power3ed boom box dying on you. This weekend i am upgrading to a big 3 - if that doesn't fix it where else do i look for a fix. I cant believe switching cities would cause the issue. I get that i don't drive as fast here because this place is CROWDED and traffic is a B!
It's a small drain on the battery, very minimal in the grand scheme of things. The only reason theirs was draining so quickly was because the volt-meter was draining it. With a proper setup that would shut off at the very least when you turn your car off.
All you need is an automotive 12 volt light bulb. Run it parallel on the positive side. When the light goes out cap is charged. The charging tool is nothing more than a resistor and the auto light adds a resistive load just the same way. You can also just use a resistor but it's a bit tricky as you don't have any light you hook it up the resistor gets hot and when it cools back down the cap is charged.
It s cold here where I live and my battery 🔋 completely died so I got a new battery so now every time I turn on my system but the capacitor is still off in my music is playing but when I turn off my vehicle these numbers start to popp up so am I doing something wrong or is it working properly
Very helpful so thanks for posting. I think it would’ve been better to explain the benefits and use of a capacitor in the beginning versus the end, but I finally understood.
you say when it drops under 12v the display turns off yet in the video it is still on?
+Just Trickky I was curious about that myself. Seems the microprocessor in this cap turns off when LED activity stops rather than a particular voltage is reached. If they had actually connected the cap to the battery, the LED readout would have stabilized to battery voltage and turned off.
4:50 it'll turn off at 12 volts huh
🤣👏
@@---skynet--- 999
First thank you for the info. It was a great way to show how to hook a capacitor up to a sound system with the car board example, it mainly help because you can see everything on one area and I was able to transfer that example into my car and it work perfectly,thanks again.
The sound effects where spot on thanks solved one of my few problems. Will make sure I throw that ground down before the power. Appreciate it guys.
That was an okay video guys thank you for the information, but my question remains, can I use a battery trickle charger to charge my 10 farad capacitor
You guy's did so well... Very clean and esay to understand.
To watcher... Take note to plug de capacitor closer than possible to the amp... Then else the cap will only used as a filter.....
Well guys, thank you so much for truly clearing up any misconceptions about why a cap should be used, my only question would be then if a half farad cap cleared up the alt noise then why are there such large caps and cap banks on the market if they're mainly for filtering alternator noise? And the nvx looks identical to the pyle 5 farad except it has the terminal block (very nice) and the smoked plexi.
Great video! Very informative! I did not know about the filtration aspect of capacitors definitely going to install a cap to my system. Thanks!
I bought this same Cap. Charged it per the instructions. The volt meter on the cap turned off. Then it came back on. Now it’s off again. Everything works. System sounds great. Headlights in my 2019 Tundra don’t dim. So what’s wrong with the cap?? Did I do something wrong? Or is it just an expensive distribution block now?
Table car is awesome! Nice to see it spread out
So ur saying I have to upgrade my altenator to stop my head lights from dimming?
Switch to led headlight bulbs
@@dunk5647 still doesnt solve the battery drain, alternator upgrade is reccomended
If not connected, I saw the voltage slowly going down. Does it go all the way to 0 and have to charge with the charging tool again ? Or once installed it holds voltage
Allen, I am building a 02 Chevy Tahoe. I just put the stereo system in it. Now it has a pioneer AVIC 5200 nex double din head unit, each door has a 6.5” speaker and a 1” tweeter with a crossover that has 3 settings +3db,0db,-3db.i have no idea what sounds better yet. Haven’t messed with them. They are Polk audio component sets DXI6501. I have a new Rockford Fosgate prime 300.4 4channel amp running the component sets. It has 2 sets of rca’s front and rear hooked up to it off the deck. For the bass I have a 18” custom built sub that I had running off my old ass db1000.1 Punch amp. I had stupid ass alternator noise! It made me loose my mind trying to find it. I changed out the deck, new RCA’S new grounds straight to the clean frame. I even built a complete new wiring harness from the fuse box to the deck and didn’t use any factory wire. Got it all done and turned it on and it was gone. Next morning I hopped in to head to work, fired up the truck and there it was loud as ever!! I almost blew a gasket! My db1000 was makin a ton of noise also ,so I gave it about 4 hammer fist hits and that quit that but now it has the power of a 100 watt amp so I fucked it up somehow. So I bought a new amp a massive audio N4 claims 2000rms. I seriously doubt that.... but brah,,,,,,, The hum is still there as soon as you turn the key on but only for a few seconds then gone. What the fuck it it!!!! I just picked up the 10 fared hybrid capacitor , same brand as in this video. Got it off a friend for 40 bucks. Fosgate sells the same exsact one but says there logo and it’s like 500! So I have that to put in and I’m going to switch from 4 gauge wire to 0awg wire. My friend also has a huge kinetic battery he’s going to hook me up with. For like 125 bucks so I’m hoping the cap will get rid of it. I have been messing with audio for like 20 years so I know better then to run the rcas next to the power and all that. I think part of the hum is coming off the alternator and thru the firewall so I might Change it also. If you or anyone has any ideas throw them my way. I have not ground the rca to the radio basket. I think that’s ghetto so not doing that . That’s part of the reason I said f it and bought a new deck in the first place.
I totally dig the table car, I wouldn't recommend driving it at high speeds. My question is, I don't exactly have a voltage issue. I do know that I'm running 1000 w rms on a stock alternator and a single battery in a 2019 Kia. I'm hoping this will reduce the risk of killing my alternator and battery, but if nothing else I'd like to Know if it would potentially draw any more power than I'm already taking
Great presentation learned a lot. I have a question I am building a buggy and will be installing lights with delays. I like to use a capacitor or two to power my lights and possibly other electronic. Can this be done,? I would like to have the power when needed to power like head lights running lights, fog lights. Is a capacitor just for boosting amplifiers or they can be used like for my project??? TY in advance.
Bernie Jimenez caps are not battery's. They only store a minimal about it power they are designed to let out that power in a split second when the stereos bass drops a hard note. If you charged a cap and hooked a light up to it it would shine full brightness for less than a second before you could see it quickly getting dimmer until dead about 5-10 seconds total depending on size of cap.
Great video and instructions
Hello Sonic Electronix thank you for sharing yall knowledge with us. I've been out of the stereo game for years and I'm wanting to put my system in my 1985 suburban. My capacitor been sitting for a long time do yall suggest buying a new one or purchase the tool? If you recommend buying the charging tool like you have. Where can I purchase the tool that you guys are using thank you.
I have a 4 farad cap, I am charging it but it was a over night charge and still it has not hit the full charge. I use a DMM on a 20 v and test it and still it is only at about 7.56 v. I’m using the resistor that it was supplied with. Am I doing something wrong???
I have a question does it matter how many farads the cap is rated for I have a 1000w max amp and about to install a 5 farad cap. Will it be ok to use?
Very helpfull but is it possible to install two off these capsitors.
Table car looks siick!! but it looks like its mad out of wood, so a metal bar where the drill bits are to close the loop and actually show us how the devices look like in use would be better and a more realistic setup, perhaps ending the vid with a preformance of the decice, other than that, keep doing what you guys are doing, I learned a lot!!
How did you guys make the grounding table? I have been trying to figure it out for the longest time. I ended up buying a 30v 10amp variable power supply. But a car table would be AMAZING and would make an awesome conversation piece
I watch this channel for comedy purposes. First they say put the Cap anywhere you want,... then they say put as close to the amp as possible. The second is the CORRECT way as a Cap discharges instantly and you dont want to lose any of the basically useless charge. Put in a second battery and an isolater instead of a cap. And do the BIG THREE, your car will thank you
Do you have the link where I can purchase the 4 wire resistor capacitor charging circuit? Thanks
Thanks Guys you’re amazing great video helpful for my installation
Thanks for uploading this video. I just received my Stinger 5-Farad Capacitor and was searching high and low for the charging bulb that used to come with caps. Even the directions didn’t mention what the little circuit board was for! Do you have Stinger’s ear to mention updating their instruction booklet?
Need help. i have a 12v battery and a 3.0f cap. I'm running a 1200 sundown amp which needs around 14.5v to function properly. my alt puts out around 15v. Here's my question, my cap came with a test light rather than a resistor, so when i pre-charge my cap it's only at 12v. So should i attempt to charge my cap with the test light and the engine running so it's at a higher voltage??? Basically how do i pre-charge my cap into the 14s to properly supply my power hungry sundown amp? Or should a pre-charge of 12v be sufficient to prime the cap? With no cap amp is cutting out at high volume due to voltage drops.
Thanks for the video I’m having a lot of feedback noise or whining noise every time I install a capacitor this is the second one I have installed brand new same noise if I bypass the capacitor no noise at all can you help.?
By the way I am running to separate ground wires
Caps are great DC current filters. Good info here.
Is it okay to charge without the fuse connected?
Thank you guys that was awesome and your table is amazing.
Awesome video.
Thanks 👍 you answered All my issues
1st rule I learned is never hook up ground untiil your finished conecting positive, the reason for this is you accidentally touch a hot wire to any metal (ground) you get arc!! Connect all grounds last. Same as when installing a battery in your car!!
5:34 You guys can't' even pretend to know anything about electronics well at all. Demo or not speaker wire is not satisfactory for that purpose. What I really wanted to say is that, while ground loops can be difficult to understand at first they get easier to grasp if you READ everything that you can about them. The main thing to understand is that as an "engineer" or "installer" you either create a ground loop or you dont. They don't mysteriously appear like some sort of gremlin. Where you install your devices ground has absolutely nothing to do with it. The devices in your demonstration all need to be connected to the same negatively charged point. It doesn't matter if you connect them 20 feet apart, right next to each other or on the same negative terminal. The location of the connection that your devices have to the negative is inconsequential with regard to ground loops. If you really want to know what a ground loop is then either read up or ask me. I hate to call you out on this but you guys are slacking. Maybe you should go to electronics school or even join the US Navy or something. They'll teach you what is what. Jeesh, the only loops in here.... LOL. No harm meant. Best regards.
Exactly what I was thing.
Thinking ***
I don't know but sometimes a cap works because I had a mono amp that was going in protective mode , even after big three and audio battery upgrade ! so I got a cap and the amp don't even get warm anymore
Question. Just like yours in this video once I disconnected the relay to charge the cap the cap started discharging as seen in your video with the lcd screen. Then eventually it says low. Does that mean it is discharged? I don’t want to see the cap discharging my battery once connected nor do I want to hurt the cap. I did put a meager across the terminals and it reads nothing after sitting and it says low.
Where can I buy that charging tool?
Can these be used for camping?
Question I install the light system on my wrangler you think I need one of these. I think the light is going to kill my battery.
Pedro Rocha a cap won't do anything for a lighting system. They put out a massive amount of energy in one quick short burst and that's it. It's for when your song plays a very heavy deep note in a song and the amp calls for an extra boost of power for that split second. You need a bigger battery I'd go with an xs power deep cycle. You need the extra watt hours a deep cycle holds.
A capacitor won’t hurt if you have a very bright light bar or what’s ever is drawing a large amp
Pad. But all it will do is help it when starting. This is why pumps use cap as as a boost to get the motor started.
Hey guys - thanks for the video. In the process of upgrading the sound system in my truck DYI style and basically have no experience or knowledge. So I am learning as I go. Next subject is how to tune the system and set filters to the different speakers so they get a clean freq signal...
anyway...I just bought a T-Spec V8 3.0 cap and it didnt come with the resistor bulb. So I have 2 questions for you;
1. What kind of charging tool is that and do you know where I can buy it?
2. Can I use my automotive battery charger as a power source for the initial charge vs hooking up to my truck battery?
Thanks for your help and for posting the video. And the table car IS SWEET! I am going to scour CL and the web and see if I can find a good deal on one!
I just connected mine without use that charge step and it works fine so I don’t get that part is it necessary?
So this cap won't help with dimming lights? Like soooo many other companies that produce audio equipment claim? It's just a noise filter right?
hey guys really like all the videos you guys put out the cap that you are using is it one of the top of the line or one of the 30.00 dollar ones, also im intrested in putting a cap on my motorcycle i am limited in space, i do have bags wondering how or if anything will it benefit me in installing one,going back the cap shown in vid is it 10.5 in tall.hmm!!!
My car goes into storage for winter, any suggestions on keeping the capacitor heathy during storage..Thanks!
where can i get that charging tool?
I'm building a generator and I'm curious can I use this or another capacitor like this one to help maintain a charge of a car battery...
No.
Great video. Lost my charging tool. Can you provide a link to your site so I can purchase one. Thanks!
Hey guys I watch a lot of your videos. I need with hooking up a Loc to my 2016 ford fusion se. I can't find a 12volt wire for the Loc turn on and off. Can you help me ?
At 9:10 engine whining from the distributor can be eliminated with some systems by simply taking a piece of wire stripping the shielding and wrapping it around the RCA on the back of the stereo and let it hang there twisted at the bottom. There's videos here on RUclips that show how that works.
I assume it acts as a floating ground.
So i bought a used cap no tool i have a .5 amp battery tender will that b fine?
Why the charging green light dont go off ? Have it connected 20 mins or more. Its a stinger 10 farad capacitor.. does it take longer to full charge ???
mine does have a input and output clearly marked as. but is it the same if it just comes with a resistor?
Since the nvx capacitor has a built in distribution block can I wire the neg from the body of the car to the cap and cap to the amp? Or is it best just to wire 2 separate negs frame to amp and frame to cap
what if i did rip open the package and threw away the charger. is there anyway to charge without the tool??
Put the cap in series with anything that runs off of 12v. when the thing turns off, your cap is charged (make sure its in series... not parallel. google if your not sure)
Nathan Ceja dig in the trash and get it back lol
Nathan Ceja u can use a test light and when the test light goes out it's charged.
Any car 12 volt light will work. Hook up one wire from the light to the batter positive and the other wire from the light into the cap positive. The charging pc that they come with is nothing more than a resistor not letting the full 12 volts thru at one time. When the light goes completely out the cap is charged.
That is helpful, thanks!
So that means besides supplying power to the amps I can also set up a relay for the remote turn from the + of the capacitor! I watced vid this to get an idea of the power distribution from it. Thanks!
So if it doesnt have a distribution blick built into the capasitor, i could stack the positives together? And no harm will be done?
I got an 8.8 Compacitor when I go to charge it, it takes longer then it should? I’m stumped on it and don’t know what to do
Thank you sooo much for this video! I had my battery die and so did the capacitor. So after replacing my battery with a optima battery. After 9 years of the capacitor being installed it had never died completely until now. I had total brain fart of how to charge it. Thanks again!
I think the table car needs to go on tour to some shows!
If the cap is bad will static sound come through the speakers?
If you buy a second hand cap do you still need to slow charge it if so where do you buy the slow charger from
Running a 1000rms amp in a 04 chevy diesel so it already has two batteries in the engine bay. Would you guys recommend another battery for the amp or just a capacitor and or bigger alternator? Thank you
Hi where can I buy a changing card ? thanks
hey i had not used my cap for one year and now when i connect it to the battery directly the voltage indicator does not light up
Do you have to run a separate power cable for the capacitor coming off the battery? Or can you just run 1 into the capacitor and then split it into the amplifier?
cap comes between your battery and amp on the same line
I LOVE BASS AND CRYPTOCURANCY
Is there a reason why you charged the cap via speaker wire directly from the battery instead of charging it via your power wire and the ground you had set at 6:05? As long as you're running it through the resistor on the charging tool wouldn't it virtually be the same circuit?
+mattyfizzle Right, it wouldn't matter what wire you use if you're just charging it up, very low current, so they just used the speaker wire because it was easier and it worked and it was just for the demonstration. However, it goes without saying.. don't install you're capacitor using speaker wire...
+Sonic Electronix Your
+SeanOMatic lol grammer nazi
+Christian Creighton Grammar
lol exactllyyyyy dat stuff b so funny to me
How many times do you have to charge the capacitor
Once. Or every time it goes dead
I bought my capacitor 2nd hand, and have been looking all over for that charging tool and cannot find one. where can I find it?
Ebay
could you connect 2 compacitor together
hay! can you address any issues with over using or under using capacitors? ie. too big of a cap hindering amps being released to the amp. is this a myth? any input?
can two amps be wire to the positive terminal on the capacitor is doing this step safe will it drop voltage ?
Whats the resistor use to activate the capacitor for a 2.5
I have a 2000 watt inverter will this work for when I have a high current pull to help buffer the surge from the battery? If so should it be in parallel or series with the battery?
The table car is cool.A great idea.
I'm curious how they grounded the table for bench testing
Can I charge my Rockville 50 farad with my normal car battery charger?
I recently installed a fosgate rfc 1 single farard cap and this cap has no lcd display included , how dose one go about obtaining a lcd voltage readout and installing it??
where is it possible to take the 4-wire circuit resistor capacitor charging ???
Would I still need to use a 40/80 amp fuse when coming from the battery to the capacitor?
Absolutely! The fuse from the battery is to protect the wire so that it doesn't burn down your vehicle.
Anna probly wouldn't hurt if you upgrade the horse power llil bit I think about add new supercharger or a gigantic fan either one
How did you get charge the cap at 13volt. When I charge my cap it was 9volt or even lower. I am wondering if the cap get the full charge
+stephen, hui Your capacitor has a digital display like the one in the video and only charges up to 9 volts? Even with the car running...? Out of curiosity, what capacitor do you have? You know the brand and model?
+Sonic Electronix the car never running when the cap charge. The brand is american assistance cap 2 fared
+Sonic Electronix but every things is ok I have a 2 l7 15 on audio pipe 1800.1 the voltage it was dropping but I have my cap on it never get lower 13volt
You should have the car running while charging the cap, that or use a car charger directly into the cap if it's going to take a while. It's also possible the volt meter is just a piece of crap, at 9volts your car battery likely wouldn't have started after that. Seems fairly likely since Audio Pipe isn't exactly the best brand out there.
@@stephenhui2246😂😂😂😂
Can I install a JL Audio 300 watt r.m.s. mono amp. To a single JL 12" sub, in a Lexus hybrid? Will it destroy my electric battery? Breden and Allen, I love your cable car ground! ;)
Where can i purchase the Capacitor charging tool? I seem to miss place mines.
Mister X a 12 volt light bulb will do just fine
I love how the cap slowly discharges through the video back down to 0. Thereby making that slow initial charge completely useless.
Yeah.. No way a real decent capacitor would do that. Either the cap is bad (leakage) or that voltmeter REALLY sucks the mA's.
All those .5 or 1 farad caps are garbage.
Or.. the table top is mdf and none of the negatives are connected?
He actually hook the roll wire up and the thing never got a charge from the battery after the charging tool. That was the negative cable and that is why it was discharging smh he was about to blow something up lol
I heard you guys say not to hook grounds together because it could cause a noise ground loop. I was under the impression you should always keep all grounds connected together. What up? OH yeah cool table car display!
The idea is to avoid ground connections longer than 18 inches as this could introduce noise interference.
I was waiting of these video
There is alot of negative misinformation in this thread. If your intention is to use a 3F cap to run more than 3KW RMS then you will definitely want to upgrade your power source, i.e. a battery and your alternator as your additional battery will require a larger generator, i.e. alternator, to charge. The point of a cap here is the same as that in an ac/dc converter. It is meant to compensate during low periods nut will experience diminishing returns. Most of the time a 1F cap on a
SO WRONG... Caps low as 1 2 3 10 are pretty worthless trash. You can buy 3100 Fara caps for 70 dollars each that WILL make a difference.
_Chainz _ explain
I did the big three... I upgraded my alternator... i have a second battery... I drop the bass in the mix, my voltage meter on my truck says around 12-13v and my lights dim... I ordered a 3 farad cap and im hoping it will solve the issue... is there anything else i should revisit. Like Grounding or something...
+Bully ThaKidd If you did all those upgrades and you're still getting dimming then yes, absolutely go through and check all your grounds. Sounds like you could be losing some voltage to a bad connection somewhere.
Specifically the ground cable from your battery to the chassis, it should be two wires of greater or equal gauge to the ones coming off the positive terminal. Also make sure the battery terminals and connectors are clean for both positive and negative. The grounding to your amp is probably fine. Since you upgraded your alternator, you may also want to replace the cable going from the alt to the battery with a thicker gauge, but that wire isn't a fix for your problem, it's just recommended as a matter of cause. Unless of course they dim over time, not just when the beats drop. In that case you should definitely suspect the alternator wire.
where to buy this 4 wire resistor capacitor charging circuit?
Alexander Brick I didn’t use it, I just plugged it up and started using my cap
like the facts, Great job!
nice table car bros I got a set of rims that would look badazz on there let me know if 4/100 or 4/114 would fit hondalove
I have a 900w amplifier and I'm having unwanted noise from the speakers. I'm thinking of buying a capacitor but wouldn't know which one to pick. Is a 2 farad a good choice?
Unwanted noise is usually hum from the power cables being too close to the signal cables. It has nothing to do with a capacitor and generally a 900w amplifier alone isn't enough to warrant a cap unless you have a failing battery, in which case you should get that taken care of first.
If you have power cables traveling on the same side of the car as your signal leads you should change that right away, you'll see a noticeable improvement. If not that then you may have a bad quality junction, splitter, or crappy RCA plugs/wires causing that problem. Test the resistance of the signal cables and see if any terminal is reading high relative to the others.
Great video, i have same problem. Mine is strange though. I just moved from Los Angeles to Chicago and have a 1500 watt amp on the internal speakers and a 2k watt pushing 2 12"'s. all was good in LA but after 1 month of being here my sound started dropping out. I thought it was my battery but after swapping out 8 batteries in 12 months i started watching you tube videos and realized it's my Alternator. I bought a 250 volt alternator and the first day i was out Banging and all was good then on my way to work 2 days later back to the same, sound dropping out with that fuzzy tone like a battery power3ed boom box dying on you. This weekend i am upgrading to a big 3 - if that doesn't fix it where else do i look for a fix. I cant believe switching cities would cause the issue. I get that i don't drive as fast here because this place is CROWDED and traffic is a B!
Hello, what about when car staying over night, leave capacitor connected with battery?
It's a small drain on the battery, very minimal in the grand scheme of things. The only reason theirs was draining so quickly was because the volt-meter was draining it. With a proper setup that would shut off at the very least when you turn your car off.
Where can I buy only the capacitor tool? :)
FreestylersSM #CSGOGambling# what an Alan key?
Wish I knew
All you need is an automotive 12 volt light bulb. Run it parallel on the positive side. When the light goes out cap is charged. The charging tool is nothing more than a resistor and the auto light adds a resistive load just the same way. You can also just use a resistor but it's a bit tricky as you don't have any light you hook it up the resistor gets hot and when it cools back down the cap is charged.
It s cold here where I live and my battery 🔋 completely died so I got a new battery so now every time I turn on my system but the capacitor is still off in my music is playing but when I turn off my vehicle these numbers start to popp up so am I doing something wrong or is it working properly
Does it matter via compasitor if your using loc28L for stock stero on a 2018 nissan sentra
I installed a 1500w bass speaker in my car last week now at low revs the car seems jumpy/jerky would fitting one of these fix it?
Probably not. Maybe you need bigger wires, better alternator or better/ extra battery