Nice video. My 80" had the same problem on the same wheel, and its done it for ages, binding up on reversing and getting rather hot going forward; having tried various brands of shoes some were better than others but it was never perfect. My solution = Back off the snail cam adjuster, get a big bsf spanner and loosen the brake shoe pivot bracket at the bottom of the backplate; pump the pedal a couple of times and the shoes should centralise in the drum and the wheel should turn freely. This worked for me.
Hi James, thanks for this, it could be the answer I need. When I did review the brakes (later episode) I found that the wear was only on the top ¼. So this will be a good option to try.
Check that the operating rod to the master cylinder is correctly adjusted to allow the piston to return fully, if not this can cause binding, not necessarily from cold but has the system warms up the fluid can expand and start to apply pressure. If you seem to be getting a problem in reverse it could be that the back edge of the shoe is catching on the drum, this can be resolved by chamfering the edge of the brake shoe. It also happens on the leading edge of the brake shoes when going forward, particularly if the manufacture (mintex for example) has not put a chamfer on the leading edge, as they should.
Hi Liam, Thank you for the info, when I bought the shoes I did read up on this and tried to put a bit of a chamfer on all the edges. I have since pulled them off and will do another video on it, but it did turn out to be the brakes catching. So it is a balance between having the brakes adjusted enough to stop the vehicle and not binding. I will check the rod at the cylinder as this is not something I have looked at yet, thank you for the tip.
@@imadebobarnawa8620 in this country they are slowly coming down, but still expensive. Depends on the year/model. If you want a Series 3 they are £2-3k for a project car. If you want a Series 1 then you are into 3, 4 maybe even 5 times that price.
@@imadebobarnawa8620 I think it is because they have become popular over the last 6-8 years. Although they are getting harder to find in a good state. They do still come up from tome to time. I have heard of two recently and both at a good price considering
@vhgcgfcjk - thank you for the comments, not sure why, but sometimes I get a notification of a comment, but when clicking on the links I do not see it. So as your comment does not seem to appear I am copying it in below and will then answer. "I spent a good year in 2012 waiting for my west Aussie brake rebuild specialist to get around to ss sleeve hone etc seal replace etc my 80” 1953 brake master cylinder rebuilt from its original seized unit something I could do myself but wanted it ok just for peace of mind and liability and then it worked far better than the later. Cb unit that I fitted to get it working on the farm, dragging brake symptoms followed your experiences.So was wondering if you had the correct master cylinder which has 3 bolts holding it on rather than the 2 bolt later cylinders." So my response: yes the master cylinder is the correct 3 bolt unit for the 80". However, it is all original, there is no ss sleeve inside and maybe this should have been done. The brakes do work, albeit they are not great, but then I also did not replace the drums. I did do a run out test on the drums and they seemed well within spec, hence why I kept them on. The overall challenge with drum brakes on such an old vehicle is there are multiple things that can go wrong. everything from the back plate to the fittings and the drum. I would be keen to drive another 80" to compare as that would be the best way to know if mine are rubbish or normal!
Hi, just seen this video. How did you get on with your brakes? Be interested to hear what you found. My guess is that the 'tennis racket' locator plate for the trailing shoe was missing or fitted to the leading shoe instead.
Did not fair any better with all the things I tried. The locating tennis racket, I did double check this, but this is only as good as the information I had about its correct installation. It is definitely on there though. I will check my content to see if I can see which way it is installed
If has to hold the bottom of the trailing shoe to ensure that it does not come out of its housing. If it does it can lock up your brake until you go in the other direction then it releases. If you’re not sure send me a pic when you take the drum off. I am easy to find on Facebook etc. Cheers, John
Just looked. The tennis rackets are on correctly (on the rear/trailing shoe). It is a bit hard to see but I can’t tell if I can see the snail cam or the end of the backplate spring pin on the left hand rear brake. It should be the pin but it looks a bit big. The snail cam adjusters on all brakes should be towards the front of the vehicle so that they act on the leading (front) shoe. I have seen them on the wrong way before if someone has fitted a new/incorrect backplate. After that I would check the adjusters that keep the shoes square in the drum. If all this is ok I would say hydraulics next.
Hi Cory, It is a good question, from memory I believe they only go on one way due to the connection at the bottom, but it is something I should double check. When I pulled the wheels off you can see the pads are only touching at the top ¼ of the pad. So I need to do more work on the whole system!
Excellent job master 👍👍👍👍👍❤❤❤
Thank you kindly
Nice video. My 80" had the same problem on the same wheel, and its done it for ages, binding up on reversing and getting rather hot going forward; having tried various brands of shoes some were better than others but it was never perfect. My solution = Back off the snail cam adjuster, get a big bsf spanner and loosen the brake shoe pivot bracket at the bottom of the backplate; pump the pedal a couple of times and the shoes should centralise in the drum and the wheel should turn freely. This worked for me.
Hi James, thanks for this, it could be the answer I need. When I did review the brakes (later episode) I found that the wear was only on the top ¼. So this will be a good option to try.
Check that the operating rod to the master cylinder is correctly adjusted to allow the piston to return fully, if not this can cause binding, not necessarily from cold but has the system warms up the fluid can expand and start to apply pressure. If you seem to be getting a problem in reverse it could be that the back edge of the shoe is catching on the drum, this can be resolved by chamfering the edge of the brake shoe. It also happens on the leading edge of the brake shoes when going forward, particularly if the manufacture (mintex for example) has not put a chamfer on the leading edge, as they should.
Hi Liam, Thank you for the info, when I bought the shoes I did read up on this and tried to put a bit of a chamfer on all the edges. I have since pulled them off and will do another video on it, but it did turn out to be the brakes catching. So it is a balance between having the brakes adjusted enough to stop the vehicle and not binding. I will check the rod at the cylinder as this is not something I have looked at yet, thank you for the tip.
👍👍👍👍👍
Mobil impian saya. Semoga bisa memiki nya suatu saat nanti.
Thank you, they are great, but lots of work and here in the UK, to easy to steal! Good luck on your search to own one!
@@hyphensclassics how much the car costs ?
@@imadebobarnawa8620 in this country they are slowly coming down, but still expensive. Depends on the year/model. If you want a Series 3 they are £2-3k for a project car. If you want a Series 1 then you are into 3, 4 maybe even 5 times that price.
@@hyphensclassics maybe because the car is rare
@@imadebobarnawa8620 I think it is because they have become popular over the last 6-8 years. Although they are getting harder to find in a good state. They do still come up from tome to time. I have heard of two recently and both at a good price considering
@vhgcgfcjk - thank you for the comments, not sure why, but sometimes I get a notification of a comment, but when clicking on the links I do not see it.
So as your comment does not seem to appear I am copying it in below and will then answer.
"I spent a good year in 2012 waiting for my west Aussie brake rebuild specialist to get around to ss sleeve hone etc seal replace etc my 80” 1953 brake master cylinder rebuilt from its original seized unit something I could do myself but wanted it ok just for peace of mind and liability and then it worked far better than the later. Cb unit that I fitted to get it working on the farm, dragging brake symptoms followed your experiences.So was wondering if you had the correct master cylinder which has 3 bolts holding it on rather than the 2 bolt later cylinders."
So my response: yes the master cylinder is the correct 3 bolt unit for the 80". However, it is all original, there is no ss sleeve inside and maybe this should have been done. The brakes do work, albeit they are not great, but then I also did not replace the drums. I did do a run out test on the drums and they seemed well within spec, hence why I kept them on. The overall challenge with drum brakes on such an old vehicle is there are multiple things that can go wrong. everything from the back plate to the fittings and the drum. I would be keen to drive another 80" to compare as that would be the best way to know if mine are rubbish or normal!
Hi, just seen this video. How did you get on with your brakes? Be interested to hear what you found.
My guess is that the 'tennis racket' locator plate for the trailing shoe was missing or fitted to the leading shoe instead.
Did not fair any better with all the things I tried. The locating tennis racket, I did double check this, but this is only as good as the information I had about its correct installation. It is definitely on there though. I will check my content to see if I can see which way it is installed
If has to hold the bottom of the trailing shoe to ensure that it does not come out of its housing. If it does it can lock up your brake until you go in the other direction then it releases. If you’re not sure send me a pic when you take the drum off. I am easy to find on Facebook etc. Cheers, John
@@J5TPT if you watch this video it shows the tennis racket bolted to the rear brake shoe. ruclips.net/video/74NkVAX0F9E/видео.html
Just looked. The tennis rackets are on correctly (on the rear/trailing shoe). It is a bit hard to see but I can’t tell if I can see the snail cam or the end of the backplate spring pin on the left hand rear brake. It should be the pin but it looks a bit big. The snail cam adjusters on all brakes should be towards the front of the vehicle so that they act on the leading (front) shoe. I have seen them on the wrong way before if someone has fitted a new/incorrect backplate. After that I would check the adjusters that keep the shoes square in the drum. If all this is ok I would say hydraulics next.
@@J5TPT Hi John, thank you for taking the time to look and comment. I definitely need to have another look when the weather gets warmer!
Does it have trailing and leading brake shoes? I’ve seen that hold up wheels.
Hi Cory, It is a good question, from memory I believe they only go on one way due to the connection at the bottom, but it is something I should double check. When I pulled the wheels off you can see the pads are only touching at the top ¼ of the pad. So I need to do more work on the whole system!
Hyphens Classics good luck! Hope you you find the issue.