Hi, I am trying to print PAHT-CF -15 with Bambu Lab X1E, but it leaks (oozing) from the nozzle during printing or when the nozzle is not moving. Although the filament pusher motor is not working, it is self-flowing under 260 C.The nozzle I use is 0.6mm.Can you suggest something about this? I reduced the flow rates, but that didn't work.
Thanks a lot for the video! Can you please tell is it safe or allowed to print with PA using AMS? According to official Bambu pages, none of PA are allowed to be distributed using AMS so I'm confused :)
Nice video! I wonder if the Dry vs. Wet strength comparison is strictly about "filament humidity before print"? If I print with dried filament, but after it turns into the printed part, I imagine the part would still absorb water along the way, right? Then will that compromise its strength still?
It is about dryness after the print. Even a completed print will absorb moisture after printing and change its properties. Filament dryness basically only affects print quality.
I just ordered some of this filament for diesel heater adapters, do I really need to buy a 0.6 nozzle? Or can I just use th 0.4 that I got with my x1c? How necessary is the 0.6??
@@lendizzle77following up on this. Finally got my paht cf in the mail and dried it overnight. I'm about 2 hours into a print right now making a quick disconnect twist lock adapter for a diesel heater. 0.4mm nozzle no issues and all to speak of. Actually is printing amazing. 0.2mm layer height with ironing on. Looks super clean right now. Will follow up once this print is finished
@@lendizzle77follow up- after about 7 hours of printing with this filament and a 0.4 nozzle I am happy to report zero issues and zero settings tweaks. Stock bambu slicer settings worked amazing. It did take a bit to get the nozzle cleaned out afterwards tho. I had to run quite a bit of ASA through the factory 0.4mm nozzle to finally get the texture out completely. But printing ASA and pla afterwards again zero hiccups and no issues to speak of 🤷♀️. Seems to be yet another win for this amazing printer
If you want really stiff and thought PA try out LUVOCOM 3F PAHT CF 9891 BK. It’s really expensive but the stiffest PA I could find so far. I can’t compare it directly to the Bambolab PAHT because I didn’t tried this PA yet but it’s worth trying out.
Small parts are easy, have you tried large parts with high percentage of infill that cover most of the print bed? I can't get a satisfactory result without major warping! Any advice??
I have some CoPa and som CFPc if you wana try those too! I havent tried the CoPa yet but the CFPc looked real goood. I also have some of the origanl CFPc that came with the machine.
PA6-CF is superior. You cant use it in the AMS but tbh you want to be running from a filament dryer anyway. PA12 is okay but its nowhere near as strong as PA6
Can you compare this to PPA CF?
thank you for this cause im gearing up to print paht-cf
Happy printing
Hi, I am trying to print PAHT-CF -15 with Bambu Lab X1E, but it leaks (oozing) from the nozzle during printing or when the nozzle is not moving. Although the filament pusher motor is not working, it is self-flowing under 260 C.The nozzle I use is 0.6mm.Can you suggest something about this? I reduced the flow rates, but that didn't work.
What did you use for bed adhesion? I keep getting warp.
🤘BITCHIN🤘
Thanks a lot for the video! Can you please tell is it safe or allowed to print with PA using AMS? According to official Bambu pages, none of PA are allowed to be distributed using AMS so I'm confused :)
Hello, it's possible to make some intake manifold runners etc. and use them like final product?
Nice video! I wonder if the Dry vs. Wet strength comparison is strictly about "filament humidity before print"? If I print with dried filament, but after it turns into the printed part, I imagine the part would still absorb water along the way, right? Then will that compromise its strength still?
It is about dryness after the print. Even a completed print will absorb moisture after printing and change its properties. Filament dryness basically only affects print quality.
Is it necessary to use glue for this material with bambu p1s?
I found some reflection showed on surface of print bed in video, didn’t u applied any glue or anything else?
I did use glue
Have you had trouble with shrinkage on the z axis only? I have been having trouble hitting z dimmensions.
I have not
what glue did you use?
Do you use the .40 nozzle when printing your CF filaments or a larger one ?
I have been using .6 for these tests. I used a .4 in the past and the CF ruined it
@@lendizzle77 What about the other bambu CF filament like PLA CF and PETG CF?
I have videos on those
I just ordered some of this filament for diesel heater adapters, do I really need to buy a 0.6 nozzle? Or can I just use th 0.4 that I got with my x1c? How necessary is the 0.6??
my .4 didnt print right afterward. I highly recommend .6
@@lendizzle77 it wouldn't print it at all without h .4???? Even tho it says you can on the spec sheet for the filament??
It printed but the nozzle was jacked and didn’t print normal pla right after. That was my experience
@@lendizzle77following up on this. Finally got my paht cf in the mail and dried it overnight.
I'm about 2 hours into a print right now making a quick disconnect twist lock adapter for a diesel heater. 0.4mm nozzle no issues and all to speak of. Actually is printing amazing. 0.2mm layer height with ironing on. Looks super clean right now. Will follow up once this print is finished
@@lendizzle77follow up- after about 7 hours of printing with this filament and a 0.4 nozzle I am happy to report zero issues and zero settings tweaks. Stock bambu slicer settings worked amazing.
It did take a bit to get the nozzle cleaned out afterwards tho. I had to run quite a bit of ASA through the factory 0.4mm nozzle to finally get the texture out completely. But printing ASA and pla afterwards again zero hiccups and no issues to speak of 🤷♀️. Seems to be yet another win for this amazing printer
Good stuff if you want to build an engine block
Im going to use it to print a heater core adapter for a classic car curious how long it will hold up
If you want really stiff and thought PA try out LUVOCOM 3F PAHT CF 9891 BK.
It’s really expensive but the stiffest PA I could find so far. I can’t compare it directly to the Bambolab PAHT because I didn’t tried this PA yet but it’s worth trying out.
Good idea for the 3rd party filament review I am planning. Thanks!
Small parts are easy, have you tried large parts with high percentage of infill that cover most of the print bed? I can't get a satisfactory result without major warping! Any advice??
same, im giving up on PAHT-CF
I have some CoPa and som CFPc if you wana try those too! I havent tried the CoPa yet but the CFPc looked real goood. I also have some of the origanl CFPc that came with the machine.
Heck yeah
What is that whoop model?
Thx man. Subbed and Liked.
Thanks!!!
What support material should be used with PAHT-CF?
I think Bambu sells some meant for it.
PA6-CF is superior. You cant use it in the AMS but tbh you want to be running from a filament dryer anyway. PA12 is okay but its nowhere near as strong as PA6
PA-6 CF is weaker than PAHT CF when wet, which is what it will be during use unless you surface treat the part.
What is your opinion on Poly's PC-ABS filament?
They have PA6-GF if you want to use AMS.