My $20,000 Ferrari Engine was Ruined by a 22 Year Old Part Failure (Or So I Thought...)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 30 янв 2022
- Invest in blue-chip art for the very first time by signing up for Masterworks: masterworks.art/samcrac
Purchase shares in great masterpieces from artists like Pablo Picasso, Banksy, Andy Warhol, and more.
See important Masterworks disclosures: mw-art.co/37WwvbD
Ratarossa RUclips Channel: bit.ly/2KGH1ZK
Instagram: / samcracc
Email Me: SamcracAuto@gmail.com 
Авто/Мото
You have convinced me that I should admire Ferraris from afar and if I want to drive one go and rent it. I did go to Exotics Racing in Las Vegas and drive a GTB-488. It was a lot of fun.
Rent one from a reputable company then. I've had a "driving experience" in an f430, probably the worst car i have ever driven
whendyu get out of Jumanji?
You and me both on this 😊
I'll rent you mine $125,000 and you can keep it
I don't even want to rent an exotic car after watching the Superspeeders channel. The guy who runs that channel is the owner of an exotic car rental company and according to him exotic car rental places don't have insurance you can buy like at Enterprise where you pay a flat fee and if you wreck the car you just walk away from it. You have to provide your personal insurance and if you damage or wreck the car then they will file a claim on your policy to fix the car and demand loss of use fees for however long it takes to get the car back up and running.
That block looks like it will clean up without the need to sleeve the cylinder(s)…need to pop the pistons out and check the rings and ring lands. From what you have shown I suspect you have an excellent candidate for a rebuild. Toss the chap who gave it to you 2k and he can get himself a replacement LS or money to rebuild or upgrade his turbo when the time comes.
Let’s see if he bothers
Why would he pay the guy out for an engine he left sit out in the rain? He clearly didn’t give two sh*ts about it. It was just going to be ruined sitting there if he hadn’t given it to Sam.
Why would you sleeve a block that hasn't even been bored once?
@@SupraMane69 I see your point but he saved Sam a lot of $. So offering him something would be nice. The guy could have sold it to someone else for them to rebuild
The tool you want is called a torque adaptor. Its a 12 point box end wrench on one side and it accepts a 3/8 torque wrench on the other.
There are specs to achieve correct torque with these tools and if the box end is too thick grind it to fit.
FRDHM15 is the snap-on part number its like $32.00
Definitely worth rebuilding and maybe you could do something like stick it into an old Alfa (although I have heard it is a lot of work ;) ).
Ha! I think Sam might not yet follow your channel, but he should!
@@andrewdunbar828 yeah Jeff is "only" on episode 120 of the Alfarrari and we've not even heard the engine run yet...
sleeves are good too...
A lot of work indeed. One also might need a goodlooking woman with knowledge of Ferrari's for assistance.
I build German engines, I don’t think you even need pistons. Looks like a hone, fresh bearings and rings, maybe valve guide seals and whatever valvetrain components are damaged, if any. On something like this, I wouldn’t replace every valve if a few are bent; just lap all the old in again with the new, fresh valve guide seals, etc
Same and in s85 v10 I’ve seen so much worse. The rod bearing material gets everywhere and leaves such nasty grooves in the cylinders. Also when they spin bearings it can imbalance the piston and cause it to scrape the cylinder
This is correct
Drill a small hole in the handle of that wrench, measure the length from the center of the head to the hole, then use a luggage scale hooked through the drilled hole. Force x distance = torque.
This is the same thing that I would suggest. There is extension tool for un-accesible for torque wrench.
2:30 you might be asking yourself how do I afford such works of art. Well I have a stepmom who's back is against the wall that way there's plenty of access to her p***y
But check and double check accuracy and repeatability of scale
Use something like a fish scale on that wrench -- you'll have to take a proportion of the wrench length (e.g. the distance from the center of the bolt to where you hook the scale is 6 inches, multiply ft-lb by 2). Hook the fish scale to the wrench at your chosen point, and pull until it measures that calculated number of pounds.
That would work like a charm . I think you can get that pretty precise if you calculate it right
You use a sawn of wrench welded to a socket so that it will fit a torque wrench, then you caliberate it with a 2nd torque wrench :)
@@steverpcb My thought too.
I came here to make the same comment, fish scale on a wrench and some simple math.
or use a torque wrench like a human
You really need to understand that "OEM Ferrari" is a myth for many many parts. They purchased the parts from manufacturers that make the same parts for Ford and others. Bearings and rings in a LS that can withstand 20+ lbs of boost and well over 1000hp certainly don't cost that much. Go to the manufacturers not the "rebranding" company.
SD, you are SOOOOO right. The Ferrari box is a rip off. I replaced 328 side light with the EXACT same thing in a Fiat box for 10 cents on the dollar.
This....
Looks like a good honing. Most machine shops will look at it for free and give an estimate.They will clean and degrease it then check for cracks. I would let the shop mic the cylinders for size / roundness, the crank ect. They can professionally hone one for $10-$20 cylinder ish. Your honing drill setup wouldn't be close.
All engines are basically the same to them. That would be your best bet. They could reassemble the block back. I would have the heads cheched for squarness, cranks and that they seal good. Valve guides / seals are normally cheap. Valve jobs are about $100-$300 a head. Having it professionally inspected is priceless.
Wouldn't.fcp euro be a good source for cheaper parts ?Always could call the great Alex Palmeri. I bet he would work for a free Florida trip or a coparts car.
no
I think they already tried that with that RS4? Or whatever it was
You need to get a machine shop to strip out the pistons, rods, crank. They could hone out the marks in the pots if not too deep and use a micrometer to measure the resulting bores and all wear surfaces. Only then would you know if you could re-use the existing rods, crank, pistons or even rings.
@@Sean-John no for what exactly?
Best suggestion so far
so far there is lots of good advice in the comments. one small thing that you might want to check is to turn over the crank and stop when each of the the pistons are traveling down just take a wooden handle of a hammer and push on the top of the cylinder if it moves, then you need to look deeper into rod bearings. just one small thing that you can check before spending a bunch on honing cylinders. Definitely have a pro shop hone your cylinders. A pro shop will do it far better than you ever could with home tools.
Still think this is going to be my coffee table in the rat cave
🤔🤣🤣🤣👍
🤣🤣🤣
Agreed ... part it out. If Sam's engine blows, do what Drew did and put an LS swap in her. All I know is over here in the Cote d'Azur, my C6 Z06 LS7 eats Ferraris' left and right !!!
Yes, end and wrap up each video in the rat cave, with your favorite hot beverage and pastry sitting on the Ferarri engine table.
You shouldn't half ass rebuild any engine let alone a Ferrari.
Sam before you try honing those bores, check what they are made from. Some of these engines use exotic materials in the bore that need a particular process to hone correctly, and some are OK to use a standard process.
For a torque wrench, tighten it, but then make your own crows foot wrench. Make that wrench basically short and just the head, and weld half of a crows foot end on the other end and just stick a 3/8 extension on it. Should work like a chsrm
It won't be accurate because of the added length between the center of the drive and the center of the bolt.
@@theupscriber65 Thats why you use a torque converter formula that accounts for the length of the lever and extension.
I'm uh uh uh
Formula is unnecessary if you place the tool perpendicular to the head of the torque wrench..
👍Yep, this is how I would do it.
Again another great video Sam and I have to admit I always learn a lot from you ! I was very surprised to see that there wasn’t any substantial damage on this motor. Can’t wait to see the project you need that transmission for 👍😀
Hey sam. I am currently going through a rebuild on a sbc 350. At least from what i can see it looks to be easily rebuildable. Take all of the metal components apart and soak them in a 50/50 blend of pinesol and water. Then take a hard nylon wire wheel on a drill to clean them. If they aren't aluminum you can even soak the parts in chem dip- a simple light honing job will easy restore those cylinders. 10-15 passes may be all it takes. Just don't go overboard
Sam, put the torque wrench into the open end of the spanner. You might have to weld it up or find another way to get a tight fit. You've now got a fix but there's now leverage involved. You'll have to research the reduction ratio to apply. I did this years ago on some head bolts, it worked a treat.
For torquing your heads, try a Napa Torque Wrench Adapter Part #: CHT TA38115M. It should do the job nicely. If it doesn't fit the little pocket perfectly, grind it. It's only $17.
Wow, I've only seen SAE versions on E Bay so I didn't think metric ones existed, now I know metric versions do exist, cool.
Check out Heidi and Franny's channel for an adapter she used for torquing bolts with a wrench. It clamps onto the wrench and you just put a torque wrench on it at 90 degrees to the handle of the wrench and tighten the bolts to torque. She has a Ferrari 308.
You should see my smile when Ratarossa showed up on the scooter, t-shirt and shorts. Nice to be out of the british weather :-) Loved this episode and love the dynamics between you guys!
Great video and content Sam!
To make the $5 wrench work with a torque wrench you can either cut a square hole into the wrench using a drill and a file to make it compatible with a 1/4in drive or drill a hole and weld/jb weld a bolt onto it then torque it down. Another option I usually wouldn't recommend is to tape both the wrench and the torque wrench together with gorilla or t-rex tape (it'll only work with the old fashioned torque wrench the one with the needle).
This would work, but there needs to be a correction factor for the wrench lever arm. I used to do this calculation. Now I have to look it up!
Without measuring the upper and lower cylinder wear its hard to say if they can be honed out. If there's enough material left to do the hone it appears to be fine. You would need a dial bore and Ferrari specs for that.
Great to see the both of you👍🏻
Great video. Nice to see Ratarossa.
As far as the cylinders go I would say that it depends largely on what they are made out of. If they are cast iron then they should be able to be honed so long as it doesn’t exceed clearance specs. If they are made out of something like Nikasil then replacement is probably the answer. The MB 116/117 engines used a very interesting process wherein they would bore the cylinders of a high silicon content aluminum block to the prescribed size and then fill them with a very specific acidic solution for a very specific amount of time which would etch away the aluminum and leave the silicon particles “hanging out”. In other words the cylinders were essentially glass with “valleys” in between to hold oil. They virtually do not wear but require repair by only one or two machine shops in the U.S. (or so Mercedes said) and I am not aware of what that process entails although I have never known of anyone to have one repaired as used ones are fairly readily available. Hope this helps. Also, I would guess it also depends on the amount of damage (obviously) and if oversize pistons are available if needed.
You have to measure that cylinder sleeve in several spots up and down the stroke to see if they have the thickness to hone them.
It's only a hone, not a rebore, would remove 1 or 2 thousandths of an inch. If the cylinders can't handle that then it must be pretty rubbish
I would scrub the cylinders with some green scotchbrite and coke cola for a couple days rinse it off with kerosene and send it in a dune buggy with a supercharger and Porsche transaxle
@@danieledwards1081 your point is fine but it simply has to be dimensionally checked before rehoning. Sam is not a honing veteran, so don’t assume he would only take a thou.
If you don't want to do a full rebuild, then you could reassemble and do a compression test, to see how healthy the engine is. Would be tricky to get it hot enough for good numbers, but I think this would be a good way to know how healthy the short block is.
Screw it. I've honed cylinders significantly worse and removed 95% of the pitting and just ran it after. Granted, that wasn't on Ferrari engines, but I'm sure those light markings could be fully removed.
Im on your side. But the problem in the commentsection is that EVERY one else, SAYS they only put new parts in. A tiny mark. New. Only bc its not they who puts up the money. Its easy to tell some one else to pay. But when it comes to yourself. We always go the cheeper way.
@@chess135 exactly. I bought a 105mm dingle hone from Brush Research, did about 25 seconds on each cylinder with WD-40 and about 600rpm on my drill and got great cross hatching and removed nearly all the pitting, marks, and other issues. Put the engine back together and didn't have any issues with compression or oil consumption. Ran very well.
For the tool just cur the wrench weld a 1/2 or 3/8 box to the end and use a regular toque wrench you just need to add the mechanical advantage of the extra distance of the welded thing
This is what I've also been thinking. Adapt it to fit on a torque wrench, and then calculate how much the torque wrench should show to get the correct torque at the bolt.
Usually when the timing skips only a couple teeth, or in this case, belt grooves, there is no valve to piston interference. This is why VVT or vanos exists on newer engines. There is some play room for valve timing. As for the marking on the cylinder walls, Either there is something not balanced from the piston to the crank. Or the engine was revved high for long periods of time. Personally i wouldn't worry too much about it and it might not make any sense to do a complete overhaul.
For the torquing the head to spec a kamasa tools K 2615 may help you. It's a crowfoot 3/8 wrench, so it'll fit a number of torque wrenches and will probably fit that gap. I have these in a set and they're useful in these weird to access places. For like $7 worth a shot, I guess
There is an official automotive guide for using torque wrench extensions, so if you find that angle and length table you can use the same wrench (used to unbolt) with torque wrench on the other end to torque these back to spec. Search for something like "Using torque wrench adapters or extensions"
For torquing up, use the same tool, grind a notch in it 20cm distance from the centre of the box end side, take a baggage scale, calculate the force needed for a 20cm lever from the torque required, pull until the scale shows the force. Might need to calculate force to weight first. Quick and easy.
te moment you mentioned Cm., Samcrac begins to cry
@@honestguy7764 Make that national standard shoe size then🥴
To make the spanner (wrench) work with a torque wrench just weld a socket to the spanner, yes leverage would offset change the torque slightly obviously the closer you weld the socket to the end of the spanner the better but im sure there is an equation that you can use to account for the difference
I made the same suggestion. Essentially fabricating a torque adapter. I have several of those purchased from Snap On for different specific applications.
For the Improvised Torque Spanner. Drill a hole in the spanner and file it square to take a 3/8 torque wrench. Then do a calculation or bench test of how much extra torque is applied by the extra length and you are sorted 👍
For torquing maybe use like a suitcase weight scale, Nm = length X force.
Just make sure the scale is perfectly perpendicular to the wrench
And know the exact lenght of the wrench.
I'm in a tiny minority it seems, but my choice of what to do with that engine is just thoroughly clean it, and reassemble with new gaskets, water pump, and belts/tensioners. If you are right, and the only thing stopping compression was the belt jumping a tooth the worst you would end up with is wasting the gaskets, the rest of the components could be reused with a full ground up rebuild anyway.
I agree, clean r up, change the oil, check it over good, and see if she runs as is, the cheapest path possible. If it’s all together already, keep it that way. It ain’t no LS or SB350. It be fancy Italian vintage F1 tech.
Clean it.. hone it.. new rings.. new bearings. New gaskets. A basic refresh.
@@MikeSweeneyMedia I wouldn't hone it. The tiny pitting won't cause much of a problem, if any at all. the shine on the cylinders is perfect for the rings and pistons as they are. It's not got any suspect bearings, so leave them alone too. just fix what caused it to stop, and put it back together.
@@bfk1970 You want to break the glaze so the new rings seat properly. Its not to remove any pitting.. just crosshatch the glaze so there is something for the rings to bite into for the first few hours as they seat. The bearings have been seated and are worn into the crank. Unless they were not removed, they need to be replaced. The bearings are now worn to that particular journal on the crank/rod end. Unless they go back exactly ( which won't happen), they will sit slightly different and you end up with high spots which will cause excessive wear. On small blocks, that was the perfect storm to spin a bearing. When I raced Fords and Mopars, they were a lot more tolerant of that. But, bering are cheap and it only takes an hour or so to put them, size them and plastic gauge it to make sure everything is cool. Not replacing when you have the engine this far down is a false economy.
For the torque wrench, use a welder to extend the 15mm spanner, measure the length from the center, and use a force gauge to pull the spanner in the direction you want. Multiply the force by the length to get torque.
That was my thought too. A luggage scale could be used as a force gauge.
You been robbed robbed I tell ya
This is good and sound in physics principal, Torque = Force X distance. It may be tricky to get perpendicular pull on the wrench throughout the rotation. The formula is for 90 Dec from the force to the lever arm/ distance .
@@dinosaurdude5668 F*cos(theta)*x
Hi from the UK where we get the dates the right way .😆 Interesting topic Sam
Torque socket adapter with doubled (tripled?) nut on a bolt as an extension for the tool you already have. Basically a 'torque adapter' for what you need.
I see all the comments about measuring the block for out of round, I’m not saying it can’t happen but I’d be extremely surprised if any of those cylinders are out of round. The difference in materials in this engine differ significantly from other engines. The compression and rpm’s these engines rev to require higher grade material then your typical ford, Chevy or dodge.
As far as honing goes you’d have to know what the specs are, and stay within those specs. Replacing all the rings, bearings and seals at this point would be required and sonic checking a really good idea. I’m not sure I’d try to reassemble this engine without at least a factory manual and I’d sure want someone who knows these engines to at least make sure it’s right. If it were a cheap and plentiful engine it be a different story but these things are not cheap nor plentiful. This could seriously become the most expensive mistake a person could make even though it was “free”. But then again thinking of the content it might be worth the gamble, but then the value later is questionable.
Shut up shawn
I agree. It’s fine as is. change the oil, replace the belt, and start r up. Then decide.
Torque is distance x force. Get a scale that works in tension (like what they use to weight produce). Measure length of wrench x lbs in scale = in-lbs. Vuala 👌. You can also use this to verify your torque wrench is not completely off.
Thanks for the tips!
You can use calculations to find the amount of force you need to apply on the torque arm(the wrench in this case) in order to obtain the torque needed on the other end(on the bolts).
Hi Samcrac and Ratarossa.
First love both of Your channels.
Herby a idea and from me in DK on how to manufacture Your own "homemade special Ferrari torque wrench" = cheap..:
So there is multiple versions of torque wrenches, one of them calles "open end torque wrench", this is for mounthing a tool in the end..
Get one of these and cut one of the "special UK keys" to fit into this with a anglegrinder, but remember to not mess with the length of this, keep it exact the same as the once that comes for "open end torque wrench", else You will mess with the torque..
Have a great one. Brg. Jannik
You could mark 1ft on that wrench and use a ratchet strap with an inline scale to pull on it. Or just go till its real tight.
Exactly ...
I have a idea my grandfather tried this whenever I was 19 he had a similar issue so what he did was cut off the head of an old manual torque wrench weld on the head of a cheap wrench with narrow sides box end and he welded it together and made it extremely strong he also added the couple gussets to make it more strong and grind it down to where it was thin enough that is a simple way I'm torquing down the head bolts without buying a $500 tool
Motion Pro Adjustable Torque Wrench Adapter P/N: 08-0380 No adjustments to your torque value, just use at a 90 degree angle to your existing combination wrench that Scott gave you.
Nice transition to sponsor segment. Smooth
edit: also nice haircut :-) 8:14
Classic, almost expected.
A hone would definitely work fine!
everything looks reusable, have the block resurfaced, honed, pistons polished, replace piston rings and consumables. also, have the block checked for micro-cracks first to save time and money.
I'd check the rings, ring lands, lap the valves, hone the liners, inspect the rest and a helluva deal. I did notice one of the timing belt covers broken but that could have been for other reasons. Nice 599 it looks like you have now.
To torque the head bolts I'd weld an extension bar to the spanner and use a luggage weight measurer to apply a known amount of force.
Known force X known length, there's your torque.
It's all gonna come down to how bad the pitting from the rust in the cylinders is. The scoring isn't a concern if you can't feel it with a fingernail. Get into a good machine shop and they'll let ya know pretty quick. Rings are most likely toast from the water though.
Drill a hole through the wrench 1 foot from the center of the box end. Attach a hand held luggage weight scale (looks like a fish weight scale) to the hole in the wrench. The weight you pull will be equal to ft-lbs of torque.
Or can you get to them with a swivel socket from the top?
This ^^^^ weld an old "broken" socket to the wrench similar to a "Crows foot" wrench.
Mercedes had a similar tool which was basically a wrench with 2 x 90deg bends and a square drive positioned directly above the "box end" to keep the torque readings accurate [this would be easy to make with a bit of heat, an old socket, and a TIG welder.]
that works but don't you have to calculate the distance from the head of the bolt to the attaching point of the weight scale? Because the further you are from the center the less torque or force it takes to move the wrench. (leverage).
@@muskokamike127 Isn't that why he specified 1 ft?
Get a feel for the wrench you are using against a torque wrench and tighten them that much. Techs are that skilled when necessary. Maybe not now days, though.
@@jayhkjay duh
Why haven't I getting no Notifications for you Sam. Not your fault.. It's RUclips. :\
A Converted LS Ferrari?? Jezz wizz! That must of been beast.
I’m so happy for you. This is a great find.
Unfortunately you were unable to check the timing marks before you removed the belts. Jumped timing is a guess. In my opinion the biggest problem is the water damage at this point. The original problem to me would be that scored cylinder wall on 1 cylinder. A cracked ring land can cause that damage and zero compression. Pop those pistons and check that crank. It was in a puddle of water too.
he didnt say jumped timing, he said stretched timing. basically the valves are closing slightly later than they should be. the timing marks will probably be around half a tooth off
@@Bullwinkle39 he definitely Said jumped timing jus not enough to cause damage bc of the hydraulic tensioner..an how would the timing be off half a tooth? A belt won't go half a tooth lol
@@hondamoto-rb6bk Finally. An educated auto mechanic. I love arguing with the guy who wants to put only slightly larger piston rings on too!
Simple. Take out the crank, drop the pistons, hone the cylinders, get oversized rings if needed, new main and rod bearings. With the heads done you have a new engine. A spare for your 360.
This is what he should do.
Would someone make an oversized ring for a Ferrari? Are they generic sizes?
@@Samcrac MAHLE and Grover take custom orders.
@@Samcrac Most piston and ring companies make custom sizes, it is not all that expensive
@@Samcrac just measure the ring thickness and see if Summit sells any. Who knows, a Chevy 350 might have the same size. That or you can custom order rings. Most more capable shops and companies will have no issues with that.
That date (00.12.01) at 8:04 indicates to me that they followed the ISO 8601:2000 extended date format (YY.MM.DD). However it has a Y2K issue in that the year was mentioned with just 2 digits instead of 4 digits which can only cause confusion ;-)
Hi guys from uk 👍 (solution as made one) cut wrench that fits to the hard to access bolts weld a socket or summit to fit torque wrench 3/8 1/2" at closest point you can and trail torgue on old block or summit and adjust your torgue down or up to get required spec (only trail as you and adjust as you have extended the leverage on torque setting ) so in nutshell on trail torque 1 to spec then keep on that one with you ""new made"" attachment til you find your required spec. Rite it down say if 40lb and you back off 10 lb to find your extended torque as (your bit longer now ) rest be 40lb and u should effectively be able to to reach required spec (might take few goes ) but it is effective if done right set rest to 40lb and hard to reach at say would 30lb + 10 of extended = yi 40 (cos u trailed this) all should be to (THESE ARE HYPERTHETICAL NUMBER QUOTES NOT REQUIRED SPEC FOR EXPLANATION PURPOSE ONLY)
Here's the bush mechanic option, with some fine wet or dry sandpaper around 320 grit, sand only the parts of the bores with honing oil where they appear damaged in a cross hatch pattern similar to honing, don't take off much, see if they clean up with 4 or 5 strokes. That might be all you need.
Needless to say disassemble the piston and rod etc first, fastidiously clean afterwords until you can rub a white rag over the bore without it getting dirty.
Yep, I would do that. Don’t dive in all the way unless you have no choice. Leave the whole bottom end as is.
I would have just took my grinder to the first wrench and made it fit lol. Props tho for finding a tool that worked.
Love your content
Woohoo! Now you have a spare engine to drop straight in for when the first one sets on fire lol :)
Think you hit the jackpot here Sam :)
*This build has been brilliant because it just keeps on bringing more and more content* 🤷♂️
Travis T below is correct IMO. Torque adapters, in one form or another, have been around for awhile and there are great ones and OK ones--mostly depending I belv on their product specific specs as he described. Confronted with not knowing which I had, I really needed to have one that was dialed in. What I did was, using my SnapOn torque wrench and Plastiguage, I torqued 3 sets of crank bolts into an old block to 10% below my target spec, right @ my target spec and 10% over my target spec. I then repeated it with my adapter and checked how close it got to mirroring the SnapOn results. It got to within a % or 2, all three slightly under the SnapOn results. I knew I was OK with that adapter. I couldn't figure out a better way to be certain it wasn't 20% off or whatever. I'd recommend testing whichever way you go in a similar manner just to be sure. It's not a Honda Civic you've been gifted.
Love your videos Sam, its making me want a Ferrari !!:)
I've always been told unless the pitting/scoring in the cylinder walls is deep enough for your fingernails to catch, you can get away with just a hone. I'm no master engine builder, but I've honed a few blocks with very similar levels of corrosion and had zero issues. I'd say you scored big time with that engine
That's what my Dad taught me - but that was on BL engines that were built with truck sized tolerances in the 70's - I'd be wary on a Ferrari engine that revs to 8000+ RPM...
I think I've learned from you Sam, never buy a 360. Learned from Hoovie never buy a Bentley or anything that runs on mineral oil.
Nice video,.. filled with thought provoking questions as usual...
I wouldn't rebuild that engine in any case,... for all the effort I don't think the money will cut it IMO
Hey Sam you could totally find a machine shop with a water jet to cut you out a wrench for your head bolts. Same dimensions on the 12pt head as your autozone wrench. Give it a 3-4 inch handle and have a half inch square cut in the end for your torque wrench to fit in. This tool rotated 90 degrees clockwise from being straight out would give you your torque spec
You can get a wrench similar to what you have but the other end won’t be open ended…it’ll be a loop just like the side you put on the cylinder head bolt
You put one end on the cylinder head bolt
Get an Allen socket that fits inside the other end of the wrench attached to a torque wrench
Then torque … torque wrench will read the torque through those tools
Be careful with the folks telling you to just slap an adapter on your torque wrench and go at it. You do need to know if you are giving yourself a mechanical advantage. Last thing you need is a snapped head bolt from over-torque.
I would cut/file a 3/8" key in the wrench as close to the head as can fit and use a beam type torque wrench on it. If the specified range is wide enough it should be fairly accurate. the difference in moment force can be calculated if need be.
You can simply use the same wrench and a pipe with a specific length which you use to extend the wrench. At the end of the pipe you pull perpendicular to the pipe with a luggage scale. The bolt torque is computed by torque = distance bolt to end of pipe x measured weight x earth acceleration (in correct units). You can rearrange the equation to compute weight you need to measure to reach the specified torque of the bolt. The pipe should be more or less horizontal otherwise you need to include the torque created by the weight of the pipe in the equation or use a relative leight pipe.
Hey Sam how is your stepmom and uncle Rich? Since no other engine builders are saying anything here is what I would do. I sold all my engine rebuilding equipment so I would be sending it out if I hd to. Your best bet is to hone the cylinders and replace any of the parts known to fail on that Ferrari. You will end up spending a fraction of a total rebuild and from the looks just a honing is what I would do. Now I do not know the makeup of the metal in the cylinders and if it is a speciall alloy that needs sleeves but I would be satistied just honing and replacing parts tha tneed upgrading. Love ya Sam. I wish I was down in FLA right now. I went to USF for Chemical Engineering and used to live on Siesta Key. Now I am up in cold PA.
No
They way they made these engines made me understand why the previous owner just swapped in a turbo LS.
To get the correct torque on those bolts you need to cut one of those spanners in half and weld it to socket so that it will fit on a torque wrench, then you need to caiberate it as the length of welded on spanner screws up the reading on the torque wrench. The way to do this is with a 2nd torque wrench, you need a bolt running through a sleeve with a nut welded on the other end, hold the sleeve in a vice and use a torque wrench on each end, you can then read the correct reading on the one with a normal socket on it to see what the one with the welded on spanner needs to read for the same torque :)
Bend that wrench into a "U" shape, so both ends are aligned. Then use a torque wrench, if you can get it fit. Maybe weld on a different open end to it
Who in their right mind would consider rebuilding a Ferrari engine to put in another vehicle? Sam-on-crac!
For the tool I think I have a couple of ideas.
- you could get a double box ended wrench and instert a hex attached to a torque wrench in the external end and take into accont the leverage you make with the wrench.
- you could bend the wrench ratarossa gave you and then weld it to a 3/8 or 1/2 extension.
These are a couple of ideas, hope they help
Cut that wrench in Half and weld on a half inch extension to make a L angle then use a torque wrench on that. You Will have go calculate the torque change but it is possible.
One of the chambers of the cylinder heads is covered in oil/fuel and the exhaust valve have a big line of rust. You should check that cylinder. Also REMOVE the headgaskets and inspect them.
Tool tip. Hook the eye of the spare spanner into the free beak of the one on the bolt and you have a spanner twice the length.
I think snap on do a short ring spanner with a half inch square on the other end that torque wrench can bite on. Never sure how the math/torque is altered? Worth a try.
Sam love your videos please get yourself a Shop and line up some more cameras and lights to do all your work.
@ 12:08
1. Put the wrench on the bolt head the same way you took if off.
2. Put a bolt and nut together and put one end of the nut/bolt in the open end of the wrench.
3. Get a torque wrench and socket and attach to nut/bolt near open end of wrench.
4. Measure center to center distance on wrench. This shall be L_1.
5. Measure center of socket location to center of handle. This shall be L_2.
6. Torque wrench setting shall be T_s.
7. Torque requirement for cylinder head bolt shall be T_c.
8. Compute
T_s = T_c*(L_2/(L_1+L_2))
for proper torque wrench setting. This setting should be lower than the cylinder head torque requirement.
Samcrac and Ratarossa, love both of your channels. Appreciate you guys cheating the system to have cheap Ferrari fun.
The standard comparison check on a surface finish is to use your finger nail as it amazingly sensitive !
I believe if the score marks won’t hone out , you can bore the liners .5 or 1mm oversize. My friend at CP Pistons in California says they can make new pistons in whatever size you need. No need to use OEM pistons. As a bonus, you can raise the compression ratio if you want to make a bit more power.
For the replacement tool, us Ducati owners have exactly the same problem! The cheap fix is to take your cheap spanner and heat/bend it into a U-shape (make 2 bends) so that the other end of the spanner sits directly above (in line) with the wrench head. Now the other end of the wrench should be directly above the nut. Now weld a cheap socket onto the opposite end, directly above the nut, so that you can fit it into a torque wrench. No need to make any calculations for offset. No extra tools. You don't even need to buy anything else, just use a junked socket!
Sam I had a 6.0 power stroke that was also left outside without a hood on it and the engine was “known good” before hand at one of the salvage yards that I worked with a lot and I bought it just as a gamble for really cheap got it back yes it had water in it but cylinders looked similar to this so I rolled the dice put it together threw it on the truck ran beautifully no blow by ran good
Welcome to the machine, there's no limitation, with 1 imagination, keep the legend alive, whatever it cost...regards from Kuala Lumpur Malaysia
The torque wrench adapter can be seen on Heidi and Franny's Garage channel episode "Ferrari 308- Front Suspension In Ep #5" from Nov 9,2021
Easiest way to retorque the head bolts is to weld a socket(that matches the torque wrench)onto your spanner a known distance from the centre of the ring. Then you calculate the the extra leverage you've gained, and reduce the setting on the torque wrench accordingly.
Get prices on engine bearings and piston rings from Maserati.
It’s the same engine, just match the part number.
They might be cheaper.
Also turn the heads upside down and poor fuel onto the valves to make sure there’s no compression leaks.
About that specialty tool for torquing the cylinder heads. Just weld a nut to the 5$ wrench, measure the distance from the center of the nut to the center of the 15mm ring and then put the torque wrench on the nut so it is in line with the spanner. Now set your torque wrench to the required torque(ft lb) divided by (1 + the measured distance in ft).
You can use physics to recreate the tool
Torque = force x length
Get a well calibrated spring scale
Measure the wrench and pull from the same spot every time
Multiply the force x length to get the torque
Connect a torque wrench to that wrench maybe by machining a spot for a 1/2" drive to fit in it. Then use another torque wrench, set on the desired torque to calibrate the desired torque on the Frankenwrench.
I’ve cut the one end off a wrench notched it to fit an extension and welded it on or notch it and weld a socket on to avoid buying special tools works great
You could also grind it down to make it thinner. And also for tightening grind down a crow foot and put your torque wrench to install to spec. But def replace the sleeves it. It’s already torn down with heads off so you might as well.