Kriegsmarine leitz 7x50 repair part 1

[@willyg5814]

Hi Mark
the graticule is located on a separate piece of glass in the right ocular once you have unscrewed the large lens and cleaned it screw it back in place as you do so stop every so often look through them to check for collimation if you a few them back to their original position you should be ok

[@RegSchmo]

Hello Bino and thank you for your videos. Can I ask whether you would be available to service my 10 x 80 and SF14's?

[@DavidUKesb]

Is this process the same or similar to repair a pair of WW2 Ross No.5 7x50 binoculars? Many thanks

[@markpellerito8820]

Thankyou for getting back to me .Did all German H/6400 have a graticular .I purchased a pair of Hensoldt 6x30 dienstglas .They don’t have a graticular on these I believe are early as they don’t have factory code.Also ,no evidence of being opened

[@willyg5814]

Hi Mark
yes normally the H/6400 is the designation of the graticule if you see this on the shoulder it means that the grat should be present but I have had a few pairs in the past that didn't whether this was removed when they were repaired or never had then im. not sure,as you say if there is no code present then they are a pre '41 pair Hensoldt did make a lovely 6x30

[@markpellerito8820]

I have a pair of German 10x50.Left large lens has black spots .if I remove with strap wrench and remove can I clean without recollminating them? Also,where is the reticular grid lens located?

[@jcw4b]

Hi, I have a pair of the non armoured 7x50 Leitz Kriegsmarine binoculars that need collimation, but I can't see any grub scews on the outer casing. Can collimation be done without specialist equipment ? Thanks.

[@willinghamful]

Hi,
yes it can there are two ways to collimate,first you can use the prisms themselves,( ie adjust them and the collimation chages) or if they are clean enough for you,and you don't want to go into the main body you can collimate them by using the objective lens ( the big ones) if you take off the beauty rings at the front you will notice there is a retaining ring this has slots in it,the threads are normal right hand threads so turning anti clock wise will loosen it off,you need to remove this underneath you will find another ring with slots,this is the objective cell retaining ring,use the slots in this to rotate gradually the cell until collimation is achieved,replace the locking ring and then the beauty ring,for this I use a ring spanner,
hope this helps

[@jcw4b]

Many thanks - any chance you could post a video showing how to take apart the non armoured binoculars to get to the prism collimation (and to clean the prisms), and also the objective lens collimation method ?

[@willinghamful]

will try to do one this weekend,the non armoured are slightly different to take apart than the armoured as you have to remove the ocular post first then the plate then the rest is really the same,been meaning to do a collimation video for a while,so maybe its time I did one,glad you like the other videos

[@jcw4b]

I have removed the ocular posts and the prism assembly and cleaned them. However it seems that no matter how much I adjust the prism assembly collimation screws, they still will not align. Is it possible that the problem is with the objective lens so that if they are not adjusted correctly, I will never be able to collimate using the prism adjustments ?

[@willinghamful]

Hi,
Yes it can be tricky,are you definitely locating the the top using the little stud that I mention? This will throw them out of collimation if it is not exactly placed in the slot,if not yes you can collimate using the objectives,if you want email me on [e-mail]

[@willinghamful]

Hi,
Yes it can be tricky,are you definitely locating the the top using the little stud that I mention? This will throw them out of collimation if it is not exactly placed in the slot,if not yes you can collimate using the objectives,if you want email me on [e-mail]