Very well presented, very good video angles & great lighting. I had taken my pads out without seeing this video & I had a few "moments". Now all is very clear & I can do it very quickly indeed......5 minutes.
Nice explanation, but I never wouldn't leave my bike in your workshop! You scratched the rear caliper whit the pliers!! When I saw it... my tears started to fall down!!
the wrench is called a CHANNEL LOCK? cause it has channels like channel islands. lol #818rider loves your videos TY. DO HYDROLICS FOR FRONT FORKS NEXT PLS
8:41 I highly recommend to start adding fresh fluid BEFORE all of the old fluid is gone. Once all of the old fluid is gone you'll be pumping air in the system and adding more work that it needs be. Instead, start adding fresh fluid when there is still a little bit of old fluid left in the reservoir. This say the fresh fluid will push the old fluid out and no air in the system at the same time!
Well detailed great videos. Do you have a video installing new preferred tires? What tubeless tires would you use on a Ducati Scrambler Icon that is used 90% street and 10 percent off-road? Thank you!
I ended up installing Pirelli angel gt, because I realized I hated riding the scrambler off-road 😅. The Pirelli scorpion are good 90/10 tires but I don't know if they make the scrambler size. Size is the main concern with the scrambler
Bring it just above the min line and make sure the pads are not completely worn. If you top it off, next time you change the pads the fluid might overflow
How do you adjust the rear brake level so u don't have to press down so far to engage the rear brake? I only have 3,200 miles and I rarely use the rear brakes. I did bleed my rear brakes...it did help my issue but I prefer a tighter feel when I brake with the rear brakes.
Hi Albe, no one seems to know the answer to this so I thought I'd stop by and ask you. Do you know which size Speed Bleeder bolts would work on the Ducati Scrambler, both front and rear caliper? Thanks in advance.
Cause I said so?!?! 🤣🤣 just kidding, it's a long explanation (thank you BTW, this is a great topic for a video) in short the fluid deteriorates over time and need to be replaced or some air gets in (loose banjo bolt or tube) and the fluid needs to be flushed. You can fill it up to tge full line only if you install new brake pads, if you fill it up with worn off pads, when you push the pistons back in to install new pads, the reservoir will overflow
You don't have to take the wheel off though, just remove the pin and the old pads and push the pistons back, replace the pads and tap the pads in and replace the pin and spring.
Good day. Your videos are really helpful. Can you make a video to help me , how to remove and change the clutch lever for ducati scrambler 1100 sport ? thank you
Unfortunately I don't have a Scrambler 1100 to use, but I replaced the levers on my 800 Scrambler, take a look at it and see if it helps. ruclips.net/video/884vs24ULhA/видео.html
Great video. How often do you think you need to bleed the brake fluid? My rear brake pedal turned to mush at 6000kms, so maybe it’s time. I also heard you need high performance brake fluid for ducati because the brake line and therefore the brake fluid overheats because it is routed close to the catalytic converter.
I flush it when it turns dark, usually every few years. Tge manual for the scrambler call for DOT 4, I use the DOT 4 LV. If the rear brake is mush, it's definitely time to bleed the brakes 👍
Albe, I replied to another of your videos but this one seems more appropriate. The rear caliper cannot be adjusted correct? Meaning, loosening it, applying the brake to adjust caliper and tighten bolts? Seeing as how the wheel needs to come off first, that defeats the purpose of what I'm trying to achieve. I have lateral movement of my caliper so I'm left with thinking that my rotor is warped?
Hi Pepi, you do not have to take the wheel off to replace the brake pads ( i take it off to get a better angle for the camera) but the caliper bracket comes off or at least loose, when you remove the wheel. The caliper is mounted solid to the caliper bracket and is not supposed to have lateral movement other than, obviously slide over the sliders when you brake so to apply te same pressure on both brake pads. To see if the rotor is warped, without expensive tools, put a rear stand on the bike, tape a pencil or a stick to the swing arm that touches the outer portion of te rotor and spin the wheel slowly and see if it rubs. I hope this helps, It’s really hard to diagnose things without getting my hands on them.
@@AlbesADV My pads catch more in one spot on the rotor and that's when the caliper moves laterally towards the wheel and then back out. On this one spot, the wheel also doesn't move as freely. So I'm assuming the rotor is warped, since as you said above, the caliper is not supposed to move at all. I'll do the ruler test but what else could be making the caliper move like that? Thanks for the reply btw.
Unfortunately you might be right, and the only way to fix it is to replace the rotor, also check the sliders and make sure they move freely once you have the wheel off. Good luck my friend 👍
@@AlbesADV I'm not surprised, both front/rear stock rotors are utter garbage. By sliders, you mean the caliper sliders? Is it dangerous to ride the bike until I get the rotor replaced? Thanks for your help Albe.
Yes I mean the caliper sliders. It shouldn't be dangerous but for good measure, take it easy on it. As long as the brake pads have some meat on them, the bike will stop but it might vibrate more than usual
Mike, When you say F750 GS are you referring to the brand new one coming out or are you talking about the F700GS? In any case I believe the bigger brother (F800GS or F850GS) is a better more versatile bike then the little brother, if you believe you are going to stay on the road 100% of the time, the F700GS/F750GS would do just fine and save you some money, but if you think that at any point in time you’re going to hit some dirt I would definitely go for the F800GS/F850GS.
The bike is still riding on the original tires. I usually replace them only if they have signs like, the tread is worn down, the rubber compound became hard, I see little cracks on the sides like sun rot or I can feel that they lose traction. If you just cruise around that would work, if you ride hard you might want to replace them a little more often, but at that point you should wear thru them fairly quickly.
I believe that if well maintained they will last longer, inspect them carefully, and if they look good and sound, lube them and check them again at the next service 👍
I cleaned my rotor buttons, sprayed the crap out of my calipers with brake cleaner and I'm still getting a little bit of brake pulsing...not in the brake lever but the bike itself. I have a feeling my rotors might be bent a little...but just in case they are not, my plan is to do as you suggest, remove the brake pads while the caliper remains attached and see if any of the pistons are seized. I don't want to mess with the brake fluid. The bike is just over 2 years old and has 9000 km on it. Is it difficult to push the pistons back in by hand? Any other tips you can offer for this DIY? Once the brake pads are out I'm ok to manipulate the brake lever to get the pistons to move correct? I'm new to all this. I appreciate your help.
Can the pistons be pushed back in place while the calipers remain on? Particularly the rear? I don't want to remove the rear wheel to take the caliper off...Thanks again.
The pistons can be pushed in by hand, that is not a problem, I would NOT pull the brake lever when the pads are out, you might end up over extending the pistons. The pulse might be a warped rotor (which would need to be replaced) a hard spot on the rotor (same thing, needs replacement) or a misaligned rear wheel but it would have to be out of center quite a bit. Without feeling it I can't say with certainty. Good luck and If in doubt you might want to replace pads and rotor both.
Thank you for your help. I have yet to check the pistons yet and I do believe my rotor may be slightly warped...in terms of NOT pulling the brake lever when pads are out...so as to not over extend the piston...how do I find out if a piston is seized? Once the brake pads are out, will I just see that one or more of the pistons are not pushed out at all while the pistons that work are? Thanks again.
Another thing to note is that the slight pulsing is at low speed, soft braking only...hard braking to slow down from higher speeds there is no pulse...
man you dont believe how usefull its you info. many thanks!!!!
Love your videos - like having a good friend working in your bike with you. You explain very well and are my favorite scrambler resource thank you!
Thank you, very kind 😀👍
Very well presented, very good video angles & great lighting. I had taken my pads out without seeing this video & I had a few "moments". Now all is very clear & I can do it very quickly indeed......5 minutes.
Thanks Wally 😀👍
Thank you for this! Makes life so much easier best Moto tutorial videos out there.
super mega important all that information, we are going to work on our bikes .thanks so much..!!
Thanks for watching Jairo
Nice explanation, but I never wouldn't leave my bike in your workshop! You scratched the rear caliper whit the pliers!! When I saw it... my tears started to fall down!!
the wrench is called a CHANNEL LOCK? cause it has channels like channel islands. lol
#818rider loves your videos TY. DO HYDROLICS FOR FRONT FORKS NEXT PLS
8:41 I highly recommend to start adding fresh fluid BEFORE all of the old fluid is gone. Once all of the old fluid is gone you'll be pumping air in the system and adding more work that it needs be. Instead, start adding fresh fluid when there is still a little bit of old fluid left in the reservoir. This say the fresh fluid will push the old fluid out and no air in the system at the same time!
Thank you.
Very well explained. Thanks a lot🙏🏼
great video - very well described - Thank you
Thank you 😀👍
Well detailed great videos. Do you have a video installing new preferred tires? What tubeless tires would you use on a Ducati Scrambler Icon that is used 90% street and 10 percent off-road? Thank you!
I ended up installing Pirelli angel gt, because I realized I hated riding the scrambler off-road 😅.
The Pirelli scorpion are good 90/10 tires but I don't know if they make the scrambler size. Size is the main concern with the scrambler
Very helpful thanks 👍🏻
Is it ok to top off the rear brake reservoir without touching anything else? My level just went below the minimum. Thanks for the help and video!
Bring it just above the min line and make sure the pads are not completely worn. If you top it off, next time you change the pads the fluid might overflow
How do you adjust the rear brake level so u don't have to press down so far to engage the rear brake? I only have 3,200 miles and I rarely use the rear brakes. I did bleed my rear brakes...it did help my issue but I prefer a tighter feel when I brake with the rear brakes.
You should be able to extend the plunger that goes from the brake pedal to the master cylinder and tight the pedal feeling
Hi Albe, no one seems to know the answer to this so I thought I'd stop by and ask you. Do you know which size Speed Bleeder bolts would work on the Ducati Scrambler, both front and rear caliper? Thanks in advance.
I appreciate the confidence, but unfortunately I don’t know
Thks for the very good scrambler video
Question how full should be the small brake oil container? Why not to full? And why purging brakes? Thks
Cause I said so?!?! 🤣🤣 just kidding, it's a long explanation (thank you BTW, this is a great topic for a video) in short the fluid deteriorates over time and need to be replaced or some air gets in (loose banjo bolt or tube) and the fluid needs to be flushed. You can fill it up to tge full line only if you install new brake pads, if you fill it up with worn off pads, when you push the pistons back in to install new pads, the reservoir will overflow
@@AlbesADV thks and thks for taking time...am zero in mechanic 😎 best regards
No problem man 😀👍
You don't have to take the wheel off though, just remove the pin and the old pads and push the pistons back, replace the pads and tap the pads in and replace the pin and spring.
Very true
can you push the pistons back by hand?
Good day.
Your videos are really helpful.
Can you make a video to help me , how to remove and change the clutch lever for ducati scrambler 1100 sport ?
thank you
Unfortunately I don't have a Scrambler 1100 to use, but I replaced the levers on my 800 Scrambler, take a look at it and see if it helps. ruclips.net/video/884vs24ULhA/видео.html
@@AlbesADV Thank you . I did see this video before. but is this type clutch/break lever compatable with the scrambler 1100 sport ?
Sorry man, that I don't know since I don't have an 1100 to reference to
@@AlbesADV ok man. But thanks for the help.
is it hard to push the pistons back into the calipers on the rear brake? can you just do it by hand?
It's not that hard, it might just take a little longer
Hi guys when you bleed the Sistem we don't have problems with the ABS? (I don't write well, sorry)
No, bleeding the system will not affect the ABS
Great video. How often do you think you need to bleed the brake fluid? My rear brake pedal turned to mush at 6000kms, so maybe it’s time.
I also heard you need high performance brake fluid for ducati because the brake line and therefore the brake fluid overheats because it is routed close to the catalytic converter.
I flush it when it turns dark, usually every few years. Tge manual for the scrambler call for DOT 4, I use the DOT 4 LV.
If the rear brake is mush, it's definitely time to bleed the brakes 👍
Thank you
Nice headlamp . Why my sclambler dosnt have that x headlamp
Not sure, that is the OEM headlight with an Evotech performance cover
Albe, I replied to another of your videos but this one seems more appropriate. The rear caliper cannot be adjusted correct? Meaning, loosening it, applying the brake to adjust caliper and tighten bolts? Seeing as how the wheel needs to come off first, that defeats the purpose of what I'm trying to achieve. I have lateral movement of my caliper so I'm left with thinking that my rotor is warped?
Hi Pepi, you do not have to take the wheel off to replace the brake pads ( i take it off to get a better angle for the camera) but the caliper bracket comes off or at least loose, when you remove the wheel. The caliper is mounted solid to the caliper bracket and is not supposed to have lateral movement other than, obviously slide over the sliders when you brake so to apply te same pressure on both brake pads. To see if the rotor is warped, without expensive tools, put a rear stand on the bike, tape a pencil or a stick to the swing arm that touches the outer portion of te rotor and spin the wheel slowly and see if it rubs. I hope this helps, It’s really hard to diagnose things without getting my hands on them.
@@AlbesADV My pads catch more in one spot on the rotor and that's when the caliper moves laterally towards the wheel and then back out. On this one spot, the wheel also doesn't move as freely. So I'm assuming the rotor is warped, since as you said above, the caliper is not supposed to move at all. I'll do the ruler test but what else could be making the caliper move like that? Thanks for the reply btw.
Unfortunately you might be right, and the only way to fix it is to replace the rotor, also check the sliders and make sure they move freely once you have the wheel off. Good luck my friend 👍
@@AlbesADV I'm not surprised, both front/rear stock rotors are utter garbage. By sliders, you mean the caliper sliders? Is it dangerous to ride the bike until I get the rotor replaced? Thanks for your help Albe.
Yes I mean the caliper sliders.
It shouldn't be dangerous but for good measure, take it easy on it. As long as the brake pads have some meat on them, the bike will stop but it might vibrate more than usual
can you explain how set the clutch lever? i fall and broke the lever and when i instal the new i dont know if i did well. Thanks for share!
Check out this video and see if it helps, ruclips.net/video/884vs24ULhA/видео.html
Hi Albe -slight off topic -but I'm a mature new rider and am thinking of getting a F750GS or a F800GS -any advice ?
Mike, When you say F750 GS are you referring to the brand new one coming out or are you talking about the F700GS? In any case I believe the bigger brother (F800GS or F850GS) is a better more versatile bike then the little brother, if you believe you are going to stay on the road 100% of the time, the F700GS/F750GS would do just fine and save you some money, but if you think that at any point in time you’re going to hit some dirt I would definitely go for the F800GS/F850GS.
Thnxs Albe for your reply -im strictly on-road kinda guy -doing the green lanes here in the UK -so Ill go I think for the F750GS :)
Good choice.
Albe what about Tyres, did you replace them because you bought seond hand and its been like 3 years. Or when is the right time ?
The bike is still riding on the original tires. I usually replace them only if they have signs like, the tread is worn down, the rubber compound became hard, I see little cracks on the sides like sun rot or I can feel that they lose traction. If you just cruise around that would work, if you ride hard you might want to replace them a little more often, but at that point you should wear thru them fairly quickly.
Albe, the manual says to replace brake and clutch lines every 4 years, what's your opinion on this?
I believe that if well maintained they will last longer, inspect them carefully, and if they look good and sound, lube them and check them again at the next service 👍
@@AlbesADV that's what I thought as well. Thank you for your input!
is it the same for the front brake?
Yes, just about 👍
I cleaned my rotor buttons, sprayed the crap out of my calipers with brake cleaner and I'm still getting a little bit of brake pulsing...not in the brake lever but the bike itself. I have a feeling my rotors might be bent a little...but just in case they are not, my plan is to do as you suggest, remove the brake pads while the caliper remains attached and see if any of the pistons are seized. I don't want to mess with the brake fluid. The bike is just over 2 years old and has 9000 km on it. Is it difficult to push the pistons back in by hand? Any other tips you can offer for this DIY? Once the brake pads are out I'm ok to manipulate the brake lever to get the pistons to move correct? I'm new to all this. I appreciate your help.
Can the pistons be pushed back in place while the calipers remain on? Particularly the rear? I don't want to remove the rear wheel to take the caliper off...Thanks again.
The pistons can be pushed in by hand, that is not a problem, I would NOT pull the brake lever when the pads are out, you might end up over extending the pistons. The pulse might be a warped rotor (which would need to be replaced) a hard spot on the rotor (same thing, needs replacement) or a misaligned rear wheel but it would have to be out of center quite a bit. Without feeling it I can't say with certainty. Good luck and If in doubt you might want to replace pads and rotor both.
Yes they can, lever them in with something like a piece of wood or plastic that won't scratch the disk (rotor).
Thank you for your help. I have yet to check the pistons yet and I do believe my rotor may be slightly warped...in terms of NOT pulling the brake lever when pads are out...so as to not over extend the piston...how do I find out if a piston is seized? Once the brake pads are out, will I just see that one or more of the pistons are not pushed out at all while the pistons that work are? Thanks again.
Another thing to note is that the slight pulsing is at low speed, soft braking only...hard braking to slow down from higher speeds there is no pulse...
Che marmitta monti?
La Remus Hypercone
Lol youre chipping the shit out of ur paint. Cover it with tape or something next time