disappointing was hoping it would work. question is it bad idea to change out acid? do you think acid starts to neutralize after time? i was trying to fix my dads battery Mercedes. The housing plastic started to bulge on one side.......f that got new one. bad cell
vincbestia: I would not try to change the acid. The acid is dangerous to handle and changing it will not fix a shorted plate. I would say, if charging the battery does not fix it, you shouldn't waste your time or put yourself in harms way by trying to change battery acid. I think most of these battery problems are caused by poor maintenance. Any car that is constantly being used for short trips at low speeds (stop and go driving), is not properly recharging the battery during driving. I would highly recommend purchasing an AGM battery. They are more expensive, however, they are clearly superior to the older flooded cell batteries. Swapping to an AGM battery and using a battery maintainer like the Schumacher SP3 or this NOCO unit, will substantially increase the life of the battery. You can expect 8 to 10 years of service out of an AGM battery that is paired with a proper battery maintainer. If you decide to go flood cell instead of AGM, be sure to get the battery maintainer. Also remember to give any new battery a full charge before installing it into the vehicle. Check out this video, it may help you out: ruclips.net/video/biwTpBFM-ns/видео.html This video may help you out too: ruclips.net/video/uDhlVjdcalg/видео.html If you have any more questions, be sure to ask. I'm more than happy to help out.
I mainly got the NOCO G3500 for maintaining my cars that are not driven often. But I have used the RESTORE mode twice. The first one saved my from replacing a 180.00 Bosch battery in my Miata. It was dead and would not hold a standard charge. I checked the fluid levels and they were good. So I rant the restore function and had outstanding success. The unit has more than paid for itself. I tried it on a 2nd battery. It did not fully restore the battery. But I am still working at it. The battery isn't bulging and the liquid is showing air bubbles on all 6 cell blocks. I can use it now at least. So true to the directions, not all batteries can be restored. But I am having good luck with it and recommend it as an economical, rugged device for keeping your batteries in good shape.
Works on old dead batteries. Suppose to charge the battery first, then do repair mode, worked for me 3 times. My 2011 battery was dead. Did the force mode then charged, went to 50%, then did repar mode left for 3 days, tested 94%
I've had mixed results with the repair mode but my Noco G7200 v1 an v2 chargers have improved/brought back to life several lead acid car batts for me. This includes internal resistance going down and CCAs going up. i.e. ~7mΩ back to ~3mΩ and ~350 CCA back to 800CCA Some it hasn't helped but I already know in some cases it's the batt that's too far gone. And I would agree like some ppl have commented I tend to get a better result on my batt tester after waiting a few hrs after the repair mode is done. The whole "wait for things to settle" line seems plausible.
It’s not “boiling” as people commonly say and it’s not bad for the battery, I’ve spent a shameful amount of time experimenting and I was convinced these things were a con game just like most of the “desulfators” that promise to pulse high voltage, but if you let the whole process do it’s thing it actually helps.
Actually probably the 644 and 685 are both false readings the 644 straight after charge without rest period. The 685 after bringing water back to correct level so massive surface charge. Taking the comments comment in good humour as would imagine you would actually welcome constructive advice :) Agree have no time for the troll comments who are just abusive or pick on some irrelevent point such as the one who cant tell time in your last video haha
My 3500 doesn't cut off at 4 hours in repair mode. I've used it successfully with several large batteries. I have to admit that there were three that were too far gone to help. The 3500 is actually not recommended for that large of a battery, the 7200 or it's replacement, the Genius 10, are more suitable. But, the G3500 has worked great for me constantly over the last 4/5? years. I finally got a Genius10 to give the little guy a break and be able to maintain more than one vehicle at once. Thanks for the video.
It is no good testing the Battery as soon as you remove the charger, I did one of my batteries and left it to settle for 12 hours and my 800 cca battery went from about 796 up to 860 once it had time to settle, You need to re do the test and measure it before hand then measure it 12/24 hours later because You won't get a stable CCA reading when it has just come off the charger, Hope that helps.
My thought, too. Post-charging/repair battery measurements are usually taken after a resting and equalizing period so surface charge doesn't give false readings.
Can’t do a load test right after desulfurization And expect better results especially on a good battery. The gravity needed to be low first! The plates will shed there coating as it ages and desulfurization will shed even farther So it’s expected to have a lower load directly after. Do it on a batter with a low gravity And desulfate than see what happens. You can bring back a batter that still has its coating on the plates (paste or the like) You can’t bring back a battery that has loads all its coating as it’s probably just too old (+8-10yrs approx)
Anthony Wong: That's true. I think this battery is on its way out though. I had the car parked outside in the cold for two days and I checked the open circuit voltage before starting it up to move it. The battery was sitting at 12.15 volts. Not looking too good.
Good job making the video, it was very informative. I am very impressed with the Noco Genius 5 and 10 chargers. What is your opinion on battery desulfators for maintaining a battery? I use a Pulse Tech PowerPulse passive desulfator, they claim to have a patented frequency they use to desulfate batteries and can extend the life of a battery up to three times, I have been using it on my BMW battery for the past three years and never have any issue's starting even though I only drive about 25 miles per week.
What if you have a good battery that's pushing 12.3 volts .....would you recommend putting it in repair mode or leaving it alone? would repair mode make a difference to make it a stronger battery a little bit more?
Can the NOCO G3500 repair mode redeem itself when used on a good battery? After failing to repair a bad battery I have, I wanted to see if the G3500 could improve the CCA output of a healthy battery. The results were not what I was expecting!
NOCO : Waste of money on a max 20 DOLLARS WORTH OF TOOL. NICE PACKAGING RESELLER CHAINS MARKETING AND FOOLED CUSTOMERS...THATS ALL....8 STAGE 9 STAGE IS BULLSHIT. THERE ARE 3 STAGES...CHARGE+MAINTAIN+STANDBY THATS ALL THE SHIT THEY DO....
@@cemildenizel2223 I used one of these to "Bring Back" 2 6Volt golf cart batteries in series. It took a while with the 3.5 amps but the repair mode, it put out about 16.5 volt pulses and would actually boil the acid after a few days. Like I said, 3.5 amps is a bit small for 225 amp hour batteries, but it did disulfate the batteries without boiling the cells dry. That has been one great little charger to have around to top off all of the vehicles once a month. It stays so busy that I finally got a Genius 10 to give the little 3500 a break.
What’s the correlation between Voltage, Resistance and Amperage, I think they call it Ohms Law or something silly like that? Temperature is going to directly affect resistance, resistance is going to affect your amperage. Did the internal resistance of your battery change after repair mode (don’t just put your ohm meter across the terminals, you’ll ruin your meter)? I noticed in your first load test before repair mode your battery was almost an entire volt below what it read after you used repair mode. The 13VDC plus reading after repair mode would be my own preference over just a 12VDC reading. Higher voltage requires less amperage to do the same amount of work. If you think about it just simply you’ll consider why vehicle manufacturers went from old 6VDC systems to 12VDC (some now even run 24VDC), they could use thinner gauge wire because less amperage was required, thinner wires cheaper. Not saying you’re right or wrong, just giving you a little more to think about on what’s going on, you’re looking at one number but ignoring the other number in your observation. Thanks for the video, I just bought this charger because it was reasonably priced, had features I was looking for, and is a lot more compact than the giant chargers I grew up using. I mainly bought it just to maintain charge on my RV battery, but thought I’d give it a try on the cheap Walmart battery that had been sitting in it for two years without running it. I started at 2.3VDC on it and to my surprise after 12 hours on normal charge it was holding 12.9. I wanted to give repair mode a try but couldn’t figure out how to switch this thing into it. Your video gave me the key info I needed, hold the button.
@@fwh79FOXR6 thanks I follow now. I was confused as you mentioned it was down to like 12.15 and acting weird when starting so I wasn’t sure if that was the same battery or not. Do you still have that battery or any with low voltage around 12? I’ve taken one stubbornly at 12v to 12.8 with 690 CCA with about 6 days straight of one charge a day, won’t make sense unless I go into more detail but if you want to try it let me know I’d love to know your results
@@Fee.1 The battery in this video is still in that car to this day. However, it is constantly being maintained. One thing to watch out for, is an old battery that is constantly being maintained. It can provide a false sense of security because the constant maintenance charging can create the illusion that the battery is healthy. I had that issue with the previous battery that was in this car and I may have even talked about it in that video I linked to you that shows installing this battery when it was new. Basically, the vehicle will start up with no problems because it was on the maintenance charger but it may have trouble starting or even leave you stranded when you go some where and park the car. Depending on how long it sits, it will either be hard starting, or fail to start because the battery is no longer capable of holding a charger. So my whole program is to replace a battery after 10 years of use. The battery in this video is basically over-due for replacement but the car is not being driven at this time... so it is irrelevant to me right now. If I ever start driving it again, I will definitely get a new AGM battery and be set for another 10 years with proper maintenance charging and the usually bi-yearly battery load testing. As for the point I think you are trying to make... I believe you are trying to urge me to try the repair mode several more times on this battery. I personally do not agree with that method. Every battery has its lifespan and this battery has clearly reached the end of the road in regards to its service life. Another thing most people tend to over-look, is how much better a new battery will filter out electrical noise in the charging system. That alone is reason enough to replace any battery that is in a questionable state of health.
@@fwh79FOXR6 not so much repair mode just a combination of techniques that have worked flawlessly for me. I agree entirely and yes you did make that point in the video you linked me about a maintained battery effectively having enough capacity to start it instantly after charging but it has no endurance. The method I’ve been using isn’t really reliant on repair mode at all. That produces some helpful results on some batteries, but it’s just a piece of the puzzle and from my testing if you had to use just that or just the charging regimen that I use then I wouldn’t use repair mode at all because the majority of capacity you regain isn’t coming from repair mode. That’s said I totally understand if you’re tired of playing around with these things and especially if you’re tired of all the snarky comments from asshats and people who believe in miracles and don’t understand what they’re doing or think they just fixed a battery when they didn’t etc. I suppose I can just make a video at some point and I’ll send it over to you and if you’re up for testing it out to see what results you get then that would be great and helpful and if not nbd. Only reason I ask is because the battery you’re dealing with is in the Goldilocks zone that’s kinda hard to find where it’s holding some capacity but as you said it’s not able to hold it long or be used as a reliable starter battery without regular charging. I’ve had 5 out of 5 batteries like that brought back to reliable usage but that’s not a big enough sample size so every time I get a chance I try to add one more and who knows maybe if it becomes statistically probable I will work on a product that automates the process that i put these batteries through. If I get anywhere near that point I need to buy an oscilloscope and a higher end battery tester as used for lithium batteries in manufacturing settings but for now it’s just a theory I’m trying to prove out. And yes I fully agree there’s no way to get a battery that lasts forever…that said it can’t be ignored how many batteries out there still crank cars over after being unplugged for ages and never being maintained etc…and then actually start it up reliably. I had an OEM cutlass from 82 that’s blew my mind when the original battery started her up without issue m. Anyway you get the point. Thanks for chatting and take care if I don’t hear from you
The "repair mode" desulfation on chargers like the Noco and most other standard "smart" chargers isn't really ideal. It's basically to try to recover an iffy battery and will likely only work in limited situations. The manual warns about high-voltage and boiling off electrolyte so it should never be allowed to use this mode on a sealed or AGM battery where the electrolyte cannot be replaced. TBH this is a dumb way to desulfate altogether and intentionally causes gassing which is poisonous, an irritant, and also explosive. For proper desulfation get something with full-time desulfation like a BatteryMinder. These desulfate at all times once charged and work on any 12V starting battery, regardless of condition or type and don't use any high-voltage foolery which will cause the battery to gas. Desulfation also requires a lot more than 4 hours--try 4 days--again another reason the "repair modes" on smart chargers is stupid as it's not suitable for that. Desulfating an AGM takes even longer, a month at least for good results.
Roland M: Few people take the poisonous, irritating, and explosive gas into consideration. They just fall in love with the idea that a battery charger with "repair mode" will some how completely eliminate the need to buy a new battery for their vehicle. Saving money seems to completely trump personal safety for these people. Yet they will be the first one screaming about how these chargers should be illegal because they suffered personal injury or damage to property (after completely failing to read the instructions and not using the product properly).
Hey I am trying the G3500 on a few smaller 12 volt sealed lead acid batteries. 2 Amp type. I've read other posts you did so I'll report my results. These batteries are seemingly dead. One has a bit of juice left. The red "repair" light is flashing and I just got started. Any tips you have will be very welcome.
Do you still have this battery? I’ve found a flawless system that works with this 3500 if you do it right. Curious if you could revive this one using my method as I have done multiple that sat around 11.8
Japhet Burac: Can you get me a link to that video? I'd like to watch it. Thanks for the comment. I haven't seen any videos where this thing actually fixes a battery.
erratum on the post above. reviewing various videos seems to have taken a toll. it's a video showing a g7200 that repaired a car battery after 3 days. I apologize for the confusion. here's the link:
AYM W: The battery is still functioning normally. I'm not sure if the life of the battery has been shortened or not. That battery is 5 years old, so it has already lived a longer than normal life for the climate I live in. I think using the battery maintainer regularly if more effective than the repair mode is.
Repair mode actually lowered the CCA level. There is no 8 or 9 stages. It is all marketing. All these smart chargers getting and will get cheaper and cheaper as people start to see the bullshit marketing game behind them. All they do is to charge the battery fast or slow depending on the condition of the battery and continue to charge at a very very low rate (float mode) once the battery is full. If I am wrong why Noco and Suaoki are shit expensive on their own website and much much cheaper on Ebay and Amazon. Why would these resellers would sell their items with loss of money....
Take your battery out of the car when charging. You are just destroying your car with the out gassing from the battery. I was taught long ago never charge a battery in a car, always on a bench away from car. Even sealed batteries vent gas during charging.
Great video.. have a question that hopefully you or someone else can answer.. I have a STINGER 1700a (AGM) dry cell battery very expensive wanna save it if I can.. it's been out of my Dodge Charger for about almost 2 years now and want to bring it back to life.. first is it possible and if so what do u recommend doing? I personally was thinking about buying a Genius changer but looking at your video this charger is not for (AGM) batteries.. ANY SUGGESTIONS??
Unfortunately, you can not use repair mode on AGM or Gel type (deep cycle) batteries. Which honestly isn't a big deal because I personally have not had good results with repair mode anyways. All you can do is try to fully charge the battery and get it load tested. You will probably find that you need a new battery. If you are ever in a situation where you are planning on storing a battery, you really need to pick up a battery maintainer to keep the battery charged. Or you would need to do a top-up charge with a regular battery charger once a month. Picking up a battery maintainer is really the best choice in that scenario. Keep in mind if you try to charge this discharged AGM battery, you may need to "jump" the battery to initiate a charging cycle. I would connect your discharged battery to a known good battery and charge it for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, remove the jumper cables and connect the battery charger to your battery as you normally would. The reason you may need a "jump" is because the battery may not have enough voltage to start a charging cycle. When you connect your discharged battery to a good battery, the good battery has enough voltage for the battery charger to know it is connected to a battery charger and it will begin charging. That is a common problem with the newer smart battery chargers on the market. I hope that explains it for you. If you have any more questions or need more help, let me know. I'm more than happy to help out.
Unlike most SMART chargers, Noco Genius chargers have a force mode to charge a battery below 1 volt that is dead, and have a AGM battery mode. Desulfation takes time, sometimes weeks depending how bad the battery is sulfated.
disappointing was hoping it would work. question is it bad idea to change out acid? do you think acid starts to neutralize after time? i was trying to fix my dads battery Mercedes. The housing plastic started to bulge on one side.......f that got new one. bad cell
vincbestia: I would not try to change the acid. The acid is dangerous to handle and changing it will not fix a shorted plate. I would say, if charging the battery does not fix it, you shouldn't waste your time or put yourself in harms way by trying to change battery acid. I think most of these battery problems are caused by poor maintenance. Any car that is constantly being used for short trips at low speeds (stop and go driving), is not properly recharging the battery during driving. I would highly recommend purchasing an AGM battery. They are more expensive, however, they are clearly superior to the older flooded cell batteries. Swapping to an AGM battery and using a battery maintainer like the Schumacher SP3 or this NOCO unit, will substantially increase the life of the battery. You can expect 8 to 10 years of service out of an AGM battery that is paired with a proper battery maintainer. If you decide to go flood cell instead of AGM, be sure to get the battery maintainer. Also remember to give any new battery a full charge before installing it into the vehicle.
Check out this video, it may help you out: ruclips.net/video/biwTpBFM-ns/видео.html
This video may help you out too: ruclips.net/video/uDhlVjdcalg/видео.html
If you have any more questions, be sure to ask. I'm more than happy to help out.
I mainly got the NOCO G3500 for maintaining my cars that are not driven often. But I have used the RESTORE mode twice. The first one saved my from replacing a 180.00 Bosch battery in my Miata. It was dead and would not hold a standard charge. I checked the fluid levels and they were good. So I rant the restore function and had outstanding success. The unit has more than paid for itself. I tried it on a 2nd battery. It did not fully restore the battery. But I am still working at it. The battery isn't bulging and the liquid is showing air bubbles on all 6 cell blocks. I can use it now at least. So true to the directions, not all batteries can be restored. But I am having good luck with it and recommend it as an economical, rugged device for keeping your batteries in good shape.
Works on old dead batteries. Suppose to charge the battery first, then do repair mode, worked for me 3 times. My 2011 battery was dead. Did the force mode then charged, went to 50%, then did repar mode left for 3 days, tested 94%
I've had mixed results with the repair mode but my Noco G7200 v1 an v2 chargers have improved/brought back to life several lead acid car batts for me. This includes internal resistance going down and CCAs going up. i.e. ~7mΩ back to ~3mΩ and ~350 CCA back to 800CCA Some it hasn't helped but I already know in some cases it's the batt that's too far gone. And I would agree like some ppl have commented I tend to get a better result on my batt tester after waiting a few hrs after the repair mode is done. The whole "wait for things to settle" line seems plausible.
It’s not “boiling” as people commonly say and it’s not bad for the battery, I’ve spent a shameful amount of time experimenting and I was convinced these things were a con game just like most of the “desulfators” that promise to pulse high voltage, but if you let the whole process do it’s thing it actually helps.
Actually probably the 644 and 685 are both false readings the 644 straight after charge without rest period. The 685 after bringing water back to correct level so massive surface charge. Taking the comments comment in good humour as would imagine you would actually welcome constructive advice :)
Agree have no time for the troll comments who are just abusive or pick on some irrelevent point such as the one who cant tell time in your last video haha
My 3500 doesn't cut off at 4 hours in repair mode. I've used it successfully with several large batteries. I have to admit that there were three that were too far gone to help. The 3500 is actually not recommended for that large of a battery, the 7200 or it's replacement, the Genius 10, are more suitable. But, the G3500 has worked great for me constantly over the last 4/5? years. I finally got a Genius10 to give the little guy a break and be able to maintain more than one vehicle at once. Thanks for the video.
It is no good testing the Battery as soon as you remove the charger, I did one of my batteries and left it to settle for 12 hours and my 800 cca battery went from about 796 up to 860 once it had time to settle, You need to re do the test and measure it before hand then measure it 12/24 hours later because You won't get a stable CCA reading when it has just come off the charger, Hope that helps.
My thought, too. Post-charging/repair battery measurements are usually taken after a resting and equalizing period so surface charge doesn't give false readings.
That is a very good tip. I am a newbee to this type of battery restoration.
Can’t do a load test right after desulfurization
And expect better results especially on a good battery.
The gravity needed to be low first!
The plates will shed there coating as it ages and desulfurization will shed even farther
So it’s expected to have a lower load directly after.
Do it on a batter with a low gravity And desulfate than see what happens.
You can bring back a batter that still has its coating on the plates (paste or the like)
You can’t bring back a battery that has loads all its coating as it’s probably just too old (+8-10yrs approx)
But surprisingly the CCA is firm after repair mode, it doesnt jump up or down too much after each reading.
Anthony Wong: That's true. I think this battery is on its way out though. I had the car parked outside in the cold for two days and I checked the open circuit voltage before starting it up to move it. The battery was sitting at 12.15 volts. Not looking too good.
@@fwh79FOXR6 ok im getting old. I read your reply as Anthony Wrong: That's true... I was like..what ??? lol
Good job making the video, it was very informative. I am very impressed with the Noco Genius 5 and 10 chargers. What is your opinion on battery desulfators for maintaining a battery? I use a Pulse Tech PowerPulse passive desulfator, they claim to have a patented frequency they use to desulfate batteries and can extend the life of a battery up to three times, I have been using it on my BMW battery for the past three years and never have any issue's starting even though I only drive about 25 miles per week.
What if you have a good battery that's pushing 12.3 volts .....would you recommend putting it in repair mode or leaving it alone? would repair mode make a difference to make it a stronger battery a little bit more?
5 STAR: It's worthy giving it a try. Every battery is different and some respond better to repair mode than others do.
Can the NOCO G3500 repair mode redeem itself when used on a good battery? After failing to repair a bad battery I have, I wanted to see if the G3500 could improve the CCA output of a healthy battery. The results were not what I was expecting!
NOCO : Waste of money on a max 20 DOLLARS WORTH OF TOOL. NICE PACKAGING RESELLER CHAINS MARKETING AND FOOLED CUSTOMERS...THATS ALL....8 STAGE 9 STAGE IS BULLSHIT. THERE ARE 3 STAGES...CHARGE+MAINTAIN+STANDBY THATS ALL THE SHIT THEY DO....
@@cemildenizel2223 I used one of these to "Bring Back" 2 6Volt golf cart batteries in series. It took a while with the 3.5 amps but the repair mode, it put out about 16.5 volt pulses and would actually boil the acid after a few days. Like I said, 3.5 amps is a bit small for 225 amp hour batteries, but it did disulfate the batteries without boiling the cells dry. That has been one great little charger to have around to top off all of the vehicles once a month. It stays so busy that I finally got a Genius 10 to give the little 3500 a break.
What’s the correlation between Voltage, Resistance and Amperage, I think they call it Ohms Law or something silly like that? Temperature is going to directly affect resistance, resistance is going to affect your amperage. Did the internal resistance of your battery change after repair mode (don’t just put your ohm meter across the terminals, you’ll ruin your meter)?
I noticed in your first load test before repair mode your battery was almost an entire volt below what it read after you used repair mode. The 13VDC plus reading after repair mode would be my own preference over just a 12VDC reading. Higher voltage requires less amperage to do the same amount of work. If you think about it just simply you’ll consider why vehicle manufacturers went from old 6VDC systems to 12VDC (some now even run 24VDC), they could use thinner gauge wire because less amperage was required, thinner wires cheaper.
Not saying you’re right or wrong, just giving you a little more to think about on what’s going on, you’re looking at one number but ignoring the other number in your observation.
Thanks for the video, I just bought this charger because it was reasonably priced, had features I was looking for, and is a lot more compact than the giant chargers I grew up using. I mainly bought it just to maintain charge on my RV battery, but thought I’d give it a try on the cheap Walmart battery that had been sitting in it for two years without running it. I started at 2.3VDC on it and to my surprise after 12 hours on normal charge it was holding 12.9. I wanted to give repair mode a try but couldn’t figure out how to switch this thing into it. Your video gave me the key info I needed, hold the button.
You said this battery started in great condition right ? No observed degradation ? Or were you referring to the first video when you said that?
I was trying to say that the battery was not giving me any issues starting the vehicle. I had no reason to try and "repair" it.
@@fwh79FOXR6 thanks I follow now. I was confused as you mentioned it was down to like 12.15 and acting weird when starting so I wasn’t sure if that was the same battery or not. Do you still have that battery or any with low voltage around 12? I’ve taken one stubbornly at 12v to 12.8 with 690 CCA with about 6 days straight of one charge a day, won’t make sense unless I go into more detail but if you want to try it let me know I’d love to know your results
@@Fee.1 The battery in this video is still in that car to this day. However, it is constantly being maintained. One thing to watch out for, is an old battery that is constantly being maintained. It can provide a false sense of security because the constant maintenance charging can create the illusion that the battery is healthy. I had that issue with the previous battery that was in this car and I may have even talked about it in that video I linked to you that shows installing this battery when it was new. Basically, the vehicle will start up with no problems because it was on the maintenance charger but it may have trouble starting or even leave you stranded when you go some where and park the car. Depending on how long it sits, it will either be hard starting, or fail to start because the battery is no longer capable of holding a charger. So my whole program is to replace a battery after 10 years of use. The battery in this video is basically over-due for replacement but the car is not being driven at this time... so it is irrelevant to me right now. If I ever start driving it again, I will definitely get a new AGM battery and be set for another 10 years with proper maintenance charging and the usually bi-yearly battery load testing.
As for the point I think you are trying to make... I believe you are trying to urge me to try the repair mode several more times on this battery. I personally do not agree with that method. Every battery has its lifespan and this battery has clearly reached the end of the road in regards to its service life. Another thing most people tend to over-look, is how much better a new battery will filter out electrical noise in the charging system. That alone is reason enough to replace any battery that is in a questionable state of health.
@@fwh79FOXR6 not so much repair mode just a combination of techniques that have worked flawlessly for me. I agree entirely and yes you did make that point in the video you linked me about a maintained battery effectively having enough capacity to start it instantly after charging but it has no endurance.
The method I’ve been using isn’t really reliant on repair mode at all. That produces some helpful results on some batteries, but it’s just a piece of the puzzle and from my testing if you had to use just that or just the charging regimen that I use then I wouldn’t use repair mode at all because the majority of capacity you regain isn’t coming from repair mode. That’s said I totally understand if you’re tired of playing around with these things and especially if you’re tired of all the snarky comments from asshats and people who believe in miracles and don’t understand what they’re doing or think they just fixed a battery when they didn’t etc. I suppose I can just make a video at some point and I’ll send it over to you and if you’re up for testing it out to see what results you get then that would be great and helpful and if not nbd. Only reason I ask is because the battery you’re dealing with is in the Goldilocks zone that’s kinda hard to find where it’s holding some capacity but as you said it’s not able to hold it long or be used as a reliable starter battery without regular charging. I’ve had 5 out of 5 batteries like that brought back to reliable usage but that’s not a big enough sample size so every time I get a chance I try to add one more and who knows maybe if it becomes statistically probable I will work on a product that automates the process that i put these batteries through. If I get anywhere near that point I need to buy an oscilloscope and a higher end battery tester as used for lithium batteries in manufacturing settings but for now it’s just a theory I’m trying to prove out. And yes I fully agree there’s no way to get a battery that lasts forever…that said it can’t be ignored how many batteries out there still crank cars over after being unplugged for ages and never being maintained etc…and then actually start it up reliably. I had an OEM cutlass from 82 that’s blew my mind when the original battery started her up without issue m. Anyway you get the point. Thanks for chatting and take care if I don’t hear from you
The "repair mode" desulfation on chargers like the Noco and most other standard "smart" chargers isn't really ideal. It's basically to try to recover an iffy battery and will likely only work in limited situations. The manual warns about high-voltage and boiling off electrolyte so it should never be allowed to use this mode on a sealed or AGM battery where the electrolyte cannot be replaced. TBH this is a dumb way to desulfate altogether and intentionally causes gassing which is poisonous, an irritant, and also explosive.
For proper desulfation get something with full-time desulfation like a BatteryMinder. These desulfate at all times once charged and work on any 12V starting battery, regardless of condition or type and don't use any high-voltage foolery which will cause the battery to gas. Desulfation also requires a lot more than 4 hours--try 4 days--again another reason the "repair modes" on smart chargers is stupid as it's not suitable for that. Desulfating an AGM takes even longer, a month at least for good results.
Roland M: Few people take the poisonous, irritating, and explosive gas into consideration. They just fall in love with the idea that a battery charger with "repair mode" will some how completely eliminate the need to buy a new battery for their vehicle. Saving money seems to completely trump personal safety for these people. Yet they will be the first one screaming about how these chargers should be illegal because they suffered personal injury or damage to property (after completely failing to read the instructions and not using the product properly).
Thanks for the info. So except the useless repair mode can we say that BOSCH C3 is exactly doing the same job as NOCO G3500?
Hey I am trying the G3500 on a few smaller 12 volt sealed lead acid batteries. 2 Amp type. I've read other posts you did so I'll report my results. These batteries are seemingly dead. One has a bit of juice left. The red "repair" light is flashing and I just got started. Any tips you have will be very welcome.
Battery works fine, engine sounds a bit squeaky though!
Do you still have this battery? I’ve found a flawless system that works with this 3500 if you do it right. Curious if you could revive this one using my method as I have done multiple that sat around 11.8
another video showed the g3500 successfully repaired a battery after 3 days & 9 hours
Japhet Burac: Can you get me a link to that video? I'd like to watch it. Thanks for the comment. I haven't seen any videos where this thing actually fixes a battery.
erratum on the post above. reviewing various videos seems to have taken a toll. it's a video showing a g7200 that repaired a car battery after 3 days. I apologize for the confusion.
here's the link:
ruclips.net/video/I2K_XnajnY/видео.html
Japhet Burac: Thank you
Japhet Burac: Your link isn't working for me. Can you give me the name of the video so I can search it?
I recommend you buying this.
After these few months. Is your car battery still functioning normal? Is that "Repair Mode" shorten the life of that car battery?
AYM W: The battery is still functioning normally. I'm not sure if the life of the battery has been shortened or not. That battery is 5 years old, so it has already lived a longer than normal life for the climate I live in. I think using the battery maintainer regularly if more effective than the repair mode is.
Repair mode actually lowered the CCA level. There is no 8 or 9 stages. It is all marketing. All these smart chargers getting and will get cheaper and cheaper as people start to see the bullshit marketing game behind them. All they do is to charge the battery fast or slow depending on the condition of the battery and continue to charge at a very very low rate (float mode) once the battery is full. If I am wrong why Noco and Suaoki are shit expensive on their own website and much much cheaper on Ebay and Amazon. Why would these resellers would sell their items with loss of money....
Link to original?
ruclips.net/video/W2evYg4A0ic/видео.html
Nice foxbody bro
Bignardo18: Thank you
Take your battery out of the car when charging. You are just destroying your car with the out gassing from the battery. I was taught long ago never charge a battery in a car, always on a bench away from car. Even sealed batteries vent gas during charging.
Go buy new battery make ur life easier + u got warranty anyway ✌
JLOPEZ 23: Words of wizdom right there! I agree, buying a new battery and using a battery maintainer on it, is really the best way to go.
Great video.. have a question that hopefully you or someone else can answer.. I have a STINGER 1700a (AGM) dry cell battery very expensive wanna save it if I can.. it's been out of my Dodge Charger for about almost 2 years now and want to bring it back to life.. first is it possible and if so what do u recommend doing? I personally was thinking about buying a Genius changer but looking at your video this charger is not for (AGM) batteries..
ANY SUGGESTIONS??
Unfortunately, you can not use repair mode on AGM or Gel type (deep cycle) batteries. Which honestly isn't a big deal because I personally have not had good results with repair mode anyways. All you can do is try to fully charge the battery and get it load tested. You will probably find that you need a new battery. If you are ever in a situation where you are planning on storing a battery, you really need to pick up a battery maintainer to keep the battery charged. Or you would need to do a top-up charge with a regular battery charger once a month. Picking up a battery maintainer is really the best choice in that scenario. Keep in mind if you try to charge this discharged AGM battery, you may need to "jump" the battery to initiate a charging cycle. I would connect your discharged battery to a known good battery and charge it for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, remove the jumper cables and connect the battery charger to your battery as you normally would. The reason you may need a "jump" is because the battery may not have enough voltage to start a charging cycle. When you connect your discharged battery to a good battery, the good battery has enough voltage for the battery charger to know it is connected to a battery charger and it will begin charging. That is a common problem with the newer smart battery chargers on the market. I hope that explains it for you. If you have any more questions or need more help, let me know. I'm more than happy to help out.
You’re wrong agm batteries are also lead acid.
Unlike most SMART chargers, Noco Genius chargers have a force mode to charge a battery below 1 volt that is dead, and have a AGM battery mode. Desulfation takes time, sometimes weeks depending how bad the battery is sulfated.
Do you even know what SLI means?
wizz: Starting, Lighting, and Ignition.
😊