Excellent video! My 120 is making the exact same noise which I suspected was the valves but you confirmed it. I'll be popping the top soon and fixing my little tapper. Small correction, our 2.5L are not the famous Iron Dukes which are 151CID and we have 153's which, I do believe, predate the Iron Duke. I refer to mine as the Iron Duke Daddy as I can't give up that cool nick name entirely. Almost the same but with slightly different stroke. Love the video and the great detail you go into for us OCD dude. Thanks Michael
If I ever get a chance at one of these, I'll probably try to get it....where I'm located is in middle Tennessee close to the Tennessee River/Kentucky Lake....so where I'm at is more River than lake. But with this boat engine tutorial, I'd feel pretty confident I could get it going. And run up and down river like the rest of the folks on their pontoons.
Great work on bringing life back to these old motors. My very first motor work ever was adjusting the valve lash on my dad’s 65 chev bel air. The exact same adjustment work as you’re doing now. Bring
Those carbs with the heat riser activated choke will let it fall flat on its face while it’s cold and warming up for about 5 mins. Damn single barrel carbs, but reliable. They sound so much better warmed up. Sounds like a GM starter as well
Michael thanks for this video! My dad gave me his 1966 Starcraft Holiday this year just before he passed. It’s a 110hp. He bought it when he was 31 and I was 9. Hopefully you’ll teach me how to get her back on the water soon for my grandsons
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina well my 110 looks identical to your 120. (Maybe only a bigger bore?) so I hope to get similar success you did. But my dad didn’t get an “A” in maintenance so maybe I have a big job in my future
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina today I'm servicing A customer 1953 century V8 runabout Delo 30 in crankcase marvel mystery oil In fuel. . And great Grandad s 57 Chris craft Chrysler marine V8 Same oil and I run 100 marine race gas In all my projects even 50:1 mix With marvel.. and oil mix . Had the Scott at water McCulloch out last weekend 50 hp Loves hi octane fuel do you work On McCulloch engines? I enjoy your Videos great information thanks
Really great videos and an inspiration and big help in my 3.0 work. FYI-I believe the post on the distributor does not matter at all as long as the engine is #1 TDC and you start on the post the cap is pointing to (or reposition the dist) and put all the wires back on in the appropriate 1342 firing order.
Another great video, Michael. Looking forward to seeing your latest Mississippi River video from your trip today. There are a lot of Starcraft's for sale up my way with the 120 Merc I/O and I'm keeping my eye out for the right one. I have learned a lot watching your videos and I learn something new every time. Thanks for taking the time to do them!
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina I bought two of those Millennium Marine B-100 seats for my boat. They are the best. Nice and cool and very comfortable. Thanks for recommending them!
Another great video, you nailed it now it runs like a brand new engine. A rag in distributor hole next time might keep a dropped screw from finding a new home.
Back when I used to work on my older Chevrolets, I always adjusted my rocker arms with it running. Definitely quite a bit Messier but I always found it easier.
I'm interested to know as well. I would imagine it has something to do with clothes pinning a rag or a piece of plastic to the edge of the head. Mind you it has been a year or two LOL
Super nice job and great information!! I’m looking at a 1972 Starcraft Holiday right now. I’m a little gunshy because it’ll be my first boat, but I really love the lines of em! The owner tells me it has a Mercruiser 165 in it and it runs well. I’m not a mechanic by any means, but I’m fairly handy. I’d love to pick your brain about it if you’re willing. Thanks and keep making great videos!
If you're this far into it with as much stuff as you have/work on, might as well get you a decent leak down tester. Probably the best tool for determining if it is something fixable or requires engine rebuild. You probably have a Harbor Freight within decent driving distance, the Maddox leak down tester is decent quality and it uses regular air gauges on both sides, instead of a relative loss gauge. So its probably easier to fix minor stuff that breaks than other ones. It's probably not cheap, but if you're keeping one for quite a long while, you could buy the Mercruiser/Quicksilver engine oil drain kit hose that lets you pull the hose through the drain plug hole and into a bucket outside. Installed one of them and probably would never go back to old way of draining the oil.
Can you please show the new spots you put the plug wires I had them the same way it showed but then when you moved the camera I can’t see what you changed
Great Video!!! Have you ever set the valves on a 2001 50hp big foot four stroke motor? or Have you done the water pump? You are very informative it would be a great help to me. Thanks and you do a great job.
That rear cylinder might have a bent rod from the hydro lock, also you want to be able to spin the pushrods once you're done that tells you they aren't too tight.
As a mechanic get rid of that fram oil filter they are cause of many engines to fail and don't filter ... they fail internally. Any decent mechanic will never use fram filter.. use napa gold or wix or ac Delco 🤔
I love your videos! I have a 1978 starcraft 18ft open bow that I completely restored. Question: do your aluminum boats have any leaks? I've replace a bunch of rivets and there's no obvious place water would be coming in... But it does. I'm getting pretty frustrated and looking for any suggestions one classic boater to another. Thanks in advance.
Unless you re-set all your rivets it's going to weep a bit. I painted gluvit on the bottom of my boat before put a new floor in. It leaks in about a quart every 2-4 hours. Bilge pump takes care of things.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina I appreciate you getting back to me. I probably have the same amount coming in. My bilge is the kind that kicks on every 3 min or so and only stays on if it senses resistance. It only pushes out every 3rd or 4th time but I'm just amazed at how much comes in without some obvious areas of leakage.
a lot of guys dont know what duck weed is. but it looks like you have pond full of it. LOL keep at it and have fun.
I have plenty for sure. Thanks for being one of my long time watchers
Excellent video! My 120 is making the exact same noise which I suspected was the valves but you confirmed it. I'll be popping the top soon and fixing my little tapper. Small correction, our 2.5L are not the famous Iron Dukes which are 151CID and we have 153's which, I do believe, predate the Iron Duke. I refer to mine as the Iron Duke Daddy as I can't give up that cool nick name entirely. Almost the same but with slightly different stroke. Love the video and the great detail you go into for us OCD dude. Thanks Michael
If I ever get a chance at one of these, I'll probably try to get it....where I'm located is in middle Tennessee close to the Tennessee River/Kentucky Lake....so where I'm at is more River than lake. But with this boat engine tutorial, I'd feel pretty confident I could get it going. And run up and down river like the rest of the folks on their pontoons.
Do it Gene Do it. They are a really nice motor to work on for sure.
Great work on bringing life back to these old motors. My very first motor work ever was adjusting the valve lash on my dad’s 65 chev bel air. The exact same adjustment work as you’re doing now. Bring
Those carbs with the heat riser activated choke will let it fall flat on its face while it’s cold and warming up for about 5 mins. Damn single barrel carbs, but reliable. They sound so much better warmed up. Sounds like a GM starter as well
Michael thanks for this video! My dad gave me his 1966 Starcraft Holiday this year just before he passed. It’s a 110hp. He bought it when he was 31 and I was 9. Hopefully you’ll teach me how to get her back on the water soon for my grandsons
Very cool! I'm assuming you are talking the tower of power for the 110, I haven't worked on one of those yet.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina well my 110 looks identical to your 120. (Maybe only a bigger bore?) so I hope to get similar success you did. But my dad didn’t get an “A” in maintenance so maybe I have a big job in my future
Marvel mystery oil clears up most noise cleans up any varnish.
heck yeah.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina today I'm servicing
A customer 1953 century V8 runabout
Delo 30 in crankcase marvel mystery oil In fuel. . And great Grandad s 57
Chris craft Chrysler marine V8
Same oil and I run 100 marine race gas
In all my projects even 50:1 mix
With marvel.. and oil mix . Had the Scott at water
McCulloch out last weekend 50 hp
Loves hi octane fuel do you work
On McCulloch engines? I enjoy your
Videos great information thanks
Really great videos and an inspiration and big help in my 3.0 work. FYI-I believe the post on the distributor does not matter at all as long as the engine is #1 TDC and you start on the post the cap is pointing to (or reposition the dist) and put all the wires back on in the appropriate 1342 firing order.
Correct, thanks for watching
Son........ you're a born mechanic! Thanks, Michael. Good video.
Another great video, Michael. Looking forward to seeing your latest Mississippi River video from your trip today. There are a lot of Starcraft's for sale up my way with the 120 Merc I/O and I'm keeping my eye out for the right one. I have learned a lot watching your videos and I learn something new every time. Thanks for taking the time to do them!
So glad you enjoy the videos and for taking the time to leave me a comment. Thanks for watching
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina I bought two of those Millennium Marine B-100 seats for my boat. They are the best. Nice and cool and very comfortable. Thanks for recommending them!
Excellent info! Thank you Michael!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Another great video, you nailed it now it runs like a brand new engine.
A rag in distributor hole next time might keep a dropped screw from finding a new home.
good tip and thanks for watching
thank you for all your information I learned a lot thanks again also I am 75 years old still learning
That's great! I learn something new almost everyday on these old boats and outboard motors as well.
Love these old boats , lifetime of fun left !! Great fun and so inexpensive 😬👍
Yes they are!
Another great video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Back when I used to work on my older Chevrolets, I always adjusted my rocker arms with it running. Definitely quite a bit Messier but I always found it easier.
spring style clothes pins fixes the messy part
How do you use the clothes pins? I'm trying to picture how that works.
I'm interested to know as well. I would imagine it has something to do with clothes pinning a rag or a piece of plastic to the edge of the head. Mind you it has been a year or two LOL
My friend sunk his boat twice and that 2.5 still runs great. Just drained the water out, fresh oil, and she was good to go.
They are tough for sure.
Super nice job and great information!! I’m looking at a 1972 Starcraft Holiday right now. I’m a little gunshy because it’ll be my first boat, but I really love the lines of em! The owner tells me it has a Mercruiser 165 in it and it runs well. I’m not a mechanic by any means, but I’m fairly handy. I’d love to pick your brain about it if you’re willing. Thanks and keep making great videos!
That would be a fun inline 6 with great power. I would love to find one of them. It will be just like the 2.5L only two more cylinders.
On my 1985 170 the number 1 cylinder is in the same position as this 120 you are working on.
more confirmation the book is a little bit wrong.
Damn that looks like a little GM 4 hole made by cutting off a portion of their 235 6 cylinder
Yes you got a good engine there. Hope to see it on the water.
If all goes according to plan, I should have it out next weekend. Cross your fingers
What a great video, very informative can’t wait to see this Starcraft on the water. They just don’t make them like this anymore. 👍
You and me both! Should be a fun one.
Key is working on your own stuff can have expensive fun for cheap
you got that right.
Very informative video!!!! Many thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Glad it was helpful!
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina Yep, you are the man!!!!!
I had a 1987 invader with the merc 120 and #1was where you say it should be not where this one is.
did that have the est ignition in it or was it a points?
it happens
@@richardcranium5839 it was points
My #1 plug lined up the same on my 1984 120hp as well. Book was wrong apparently?
Sure enough is.
Same on a 3.0 number 1
i have an 88 larson with the 120 mine is the same as far as where number 1 is so its the same
If you're this far into it with as much stuff as you have/work on, might as well get you a decent leak down tester. Probably the best tool for determining if it is something fixable or requires engine rebuild.
You probably have a Harbor Freight within decent driving distance, the Maddox leak down tester is decent quality and it uses regular air gauges on both sides, instead of a relative loss gauge. So its probably easier to fix minor stuff that breaks than other ones.
It's probably not cheap, but if you're keeping one for quite a long while, you could buy the Mercruiser/Quicksilver engine oil drain kit hose that lets you pull the hose through the drain plug hole and into a bucket outside.
Installed one of them and probably would never go back to old way of draining the oil.
looks like 79.99 at harbor freight. I will have to head to the store for one and play around with it.
The number one plug on mine is the same as the one. I think the book is wrong as well.
Dog gone book anyway.
Can you please show the new spots you put the plug wires I had them the same way it showed but then when you moved the camera I can’t see what you changed
Dont name it bullfrog, it might croak on you. Good informative video.
That's a fantastic Dad Joke, I may just have to steal that one from you.
Great Video!!! Have you ever set the valves on a 2001 50hp big foot four stroke motor? or Have you done the water pump? You are very informative it would be a great help to me.
Thanks and you do a great job.
I have not worked on any 4 stroke outboards yet. My stuff is mostly old school.
Your videos are never too long I would watch you work on the motor all day long Bullfrog what a great name
Thanks 👍 Great to hear from fans that enjoy the channel.
That rear cylinder might have a bent rod from the hydro lock, also you want to be able to spin the pushrods once you're done that tells you they aren't too tight.
indeed that could be the case.
Get that Fram Oil Filter of it. Fram suck so bad.
Yep, I don't use fram any more.
Could you post the part number to the spark plug wires?
NGK (9434) RC-SE76 Spark Plug Wire Set Amazon link amzn.to/3nriVq0
As a mechanic get rid of that fram oil filter they are cause of many engines to fail and don't filter ... they fail internally.
Any decent mechanic will never use fram filter.. use napa gold or wix or ac Delco 🤔
I have been switching all my filters to Napa Gold.
I love your videos! I have a 1978 starcraft 18ft open bow that I completely restored. Question: do your aluminum boats have any leaks? I've replace a bunch of rivets and there's no obvious place water would be coming in... But it does. I'm getting pretty frustrated and looking for any suggestions one classic boater to another. Thanks in advance.
Unless you re-set all your rivets it's going to weep a bit. I painted gluvit on the bottom of my boat before put a new floor in. It leaks in about a quart every 2-4 hours. Bilge pump takes care of things.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina I appreciate you getting back to me. I probably have the same amount coming in. My bilge is the kind that kicks on every 3 min or so and only stays on if it senses resistance. It only pushes out every 3rd or 4th time but I'm just amazed at how much comes in without some obvious areas of leakage.
Take her up the Mississippi
In due time for sure. Thanks for watching.
I have a 1981 Tempest with the 2.5 Mercruiser and the #1 is in that same spot as well. The literature is wrong
For sure it is. Thanks for watching
what did you spray in cylinder before the compression test?
Fogging oil.
Ben got it right. Just a little fogging oil. Same stuff I use to winterize.
You have confused me about the firing order....first it was 1342 then then it was 1432 then it was 1342...please, witch is it???
LOL I have confused myself it's 1-3-4-2
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina you adjusted the valves as if the firing order was 1-4-3-2... does this makes sense? or should you adjust as 1-3-4-2
Green hornet
that's a good suggestion
You could name it grasshopper or praying mantise
couple of good choices for names. thanks for watcing