Thanks for the video. Very helpful. Hey color is a personal taste. If you like it green then go for it. Lol Don't worry about the negative comments. Nice video, good audio. Keep em coming.
Thank you for making these videos about your boat. I have the same drive setup. I thought I was the only one in the world. 19’ fibreglass called Sunrunner. These are way cool.
I know this is a year past the video posting but when you get #3 to TDC make a mark on the harmonic balancer pulley with a paint pin, the crank journals are 180 degrees so one mark should do for #2 and 3. Another trick is to learn which valves are closed and on the cam base circle at any given time, cuts down on the number of revolutions needed to set the valves.
One thing you mentioned was air filter. That carb cover is actually a fire suppression guard to keep any flames from shooting our your carb igniting your motor cover. Sealock has a great maintenance book covering that engine, I learned a lot from that book!
I'm tearing down my 1984 120 after water intrusion in cylinder 4 after a bad winterization. I have a 1972 120 in it's place but the 84 had a tad bit more power. Can't find any cracks yet in anything. Hoping it's a just gasket failure. I appreciate this video. Thanks!
Great video, the one turn is correct for Hydralic factory lifters on old GM motors. Keeps them Quiet ! Hate ticks in motors! Old racers ran at zero lash for more RPM before lifter pump up causing valve float. Won a street race or two back in the day! Just in case the 🍌 boat 🚤 gets the better of you ! Lol.
I have a 1975 Starcraft 18- 1/2 ft supersport the same color as yours with the 120 Mercruiser, Can you let me know about the alignment tool you use for reassembly of the lower unit to the outdrive when changing the pump, I usually change the impeller and add some of the green grease to it. Thanks Dennis, Willoughby, Ohio We bought the boat used in 1981. We have taken up to Canada many times and use it in inland lakes and Lake Erie. I have a newer cover and canvas and windows for the convertable top.
youre not wrong on the way you set the valves. in a perfect world lol. on those old engines(pre1975 or therabouts) they didnt have hardened valve seats. so the seats wear causing valve recession. the stem actually sticks up higher and over time they loose lash. with hydraulic lifters they can compensate to a certain amount. you loosen them up beyond the compensation then remove the excess lash. now if one gets sticky the spring inside the lifter by itself may not be enough to move the piston in the lifter up. this is why so many prefer the running method because the oil pressure may pop the piston up. otherwise when you crank them down after removing the lash it may be taking out what compensation is left. but if the lifter is fine forget about what i just rambled on about. what you may want to do is back them all off the two turns then crank it over to get the oil pumped into the lifters then do the adjustment. just a suggestion. i got a vinyl cutter im playing with so i can scan in a small housing or old gasket and cut some new ones. i have an old eska that i scoured the internet to find gaskets so before i use these i,ll scan them for future use if the need arise. wish i'd seen that borescope sooner. i got one on the truck for delivery that wifi's to a cell phone. a standalone would have been nicer.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina thats what i was wondering. there are ways to make multiple pass cuts etc ive seen others on youtube do it so it may be an adventure. or an adventure in futility lol still gotta try it. my little 3 oz ball n peen has made many a gasket if all else fails.
The 2.5 iron duke is a good little motor as well as the 3.0 litre its an enlarged displacement i think the stroke is longer but the bore are the same on these early gm 4 bangers good on fuel and good speed 👍
Another great video,always learn something from your video's. Those old flat tappett engines should have ZDDP zinc additive to keep the cam lobes from wearing out fast.
I used to hate those old chokes. Did it have a hole in the plate? We used to set them with a 3/16 gap not fully closed. I have been looking at similar inboard boats but I am afraid of cracked blocks up here in the Northeast
Love your videos! I’m a subscriber and I just picked up my first boat because you seem to be having so much fun! 1975 StarCraft Holiday 22 I/O! It’s got retro yellow interior and it’s awesome! Got it out in the water for the first time over the weekend and the Merc 165 got hot. Temp gauge got to 220. I got off the water quick but I could use some advice for what may be the issue. My first thought is impeller. I’m a smart guy (IT Director), but I’m new to boats and mechanic work. Any advice would be appreciated. Since you love vintage StarCrafts, I’d like to connect with you. Thank you and keep making great content!
Thanks for the great video! When I park my boat I always lower the outdrive to the full down position, it relaxes the lift mechanism and allows all the water to drain out. I also like to paint all my engine parts as I work on them or replace them. I painted the engine with red engine enamel and the exhaust manifolds and water housings with hi temp forest green. My girlfriend asked, why did you choose christmas colors? Lol
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina Also it is not recommend to run the engine with the outdrive up even in neutral due to the increased angle of the U-Joints because the shifting happens down in the lower drive. I'm sure you already know that I just wish someone would have told me that years ago when I bought my boat.
One of my friends had a 120 Mercruiser on a 20’ Seacraft center console in Miami. It constantly broke down and required a tow in. The mechanic, Bill, would “fix it” and next trip same result. My friend made Bill go out with him after the third fix. Sure enough engine quit and they were drifting for hours. My friend said how do you like this? He got rid of that craft.
I don’t know about that. I had one in an 18ft Wellcraft. Kept in Salt Water in a Ft. Lauderdale canal. Survived constant use and teenage abuse. Never cooled down on weekends. Engine and drive outlasted the hull. When my friend’s boats were down, they always knew the Wellcraft was good to go.
Lot's of stuff. Pull all the plugs and spray fogging oil in the cylinders. Pull the distributor and spin the oil pump to prime the lube system. There's more but those two things will keep you from destroying your engine.
First of all thank you for all the great videos. Can you make a video of you replacing the seals in the gear box of a 1981 25 hp Johnson ! That is what I have . I know that many are the same . I personally have not had one apart . Just looking for any hints on what to look fore . Thanks again Scott Cooper (Alden New York )
It is not an option in salt water (or should not be) but even in fresh I like a heat exchanger, closed cooling system, for the simple reason you can run anti freeze in the engine block. Anti freeze has other advantages beside freeze protection as it provides corrosion protection in your cooling passages which also improves cooling efficiency. The block will last far longer and also not build up corrosion particles and foreign debris enhancing its life and reliability. You can even go full boat and get a comprehensive system that Includes the manifolds so only your risers are left in contact with raw water. In salt water manifolds have a very limited lifespan and are not the cheapest thing on the engine so it is nice when they last longer than the normal five or six years. I am enjoying your working on the boat videos (brings back memories of decades gone by) not such a fan of the travel ones.
Skip the intro in my view. I have a lot of videos I like to view on YT with a limited amount of time and intros are a waste of my time. The title says all that needs to be said after that just dive right into the meat.
I really liked your video. I recently purchased a 1977 Starcraft 120hp that i will be going through. A work in progress. Great job.
Love the intro. Congrats to whomever came up with the idea.
Glad you like it! I'm a one man band here so thanks, and thanks for watching
DRONE FOOTAGE IS ENJOYABLE AND RELAXING TOO.
Thank you so much, thanks for watching
Your intro is a reminder of the end result, love it!!
Oh thank you!
REALLY REALLY USEFUL INFO. !! THANKS AGAIN MICHAEL AND GOD BLESS.
Glad it was helpful!
Love the format Mike.....don't change, I've learned a lot about outboards thanks to you!!!!
Awesome, thank you!
Great intro and video !
I'm glad you like it
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. Hey color is a personal taste. If you like it green then go for it. Lol Don't worry about the negative comments. Nice video, good audio. Keep em coming.
i ordered the Industrial Endoscope and got it today it looks good. thanks 9/29/21
Your welcome. Hope it works as good as mine did.
Thank you for making these videos about your boat. I have the same drive setup. I thought I was the only one in the world. 19’ fibreglass called Sunrunner. These are way cool.
Right on! One of my favorite set ups so far.
I know this is a year past the video posting but when you get #3 to TDC make a mark on the harmonic balancer pulley with a paint pin, the crank journals are 180 degrees so one mark should do for #2 and 3. Another trick is to learn which valves are closed and on the cam base circle at any given time, cuts down on the number of revolutions needed to set the valves.
I now set them while the engine is running, faster and better in my book, thanks for watching
One thing you mentioned was air filter. That carb cover is actually a fire suppression guard to keep any flames from shooting our your carb igniting your motor cover. Sealock has a great maintenance book covering that engine, I learned a lot from that book!
I have one of those books. That's where I got the rocker info from.
I'm tearing down my 1984 120 after water intrusion in cylinder 4 after a bad winterization. I have a 1972 120 in it's place but the 84 had a tad bit more power. Can't find any cracks yet in anything. Hoping it's a just gasket failure. I appreciate this video. Thanks!
Hopefully it is just gasket. Check the head for flatness and then stick a new gasket in her.
Great video, the one turn is correct for Hydralic factory lifters on old GM motors. Keeps them Quiet ! Hate ticks in motors! Old racers ran at zero lash for more RPM before lifter pump up causing valve float. Won a street race or two back in the day! Just in case the 🍌 boat 🚤 gets the better of you ! Lol.
Great to hear, thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching
Great intro. Nice synopsis
Glad you liked it!
I have a 1975 Starcraft 18- 1/2 ft supersport the same color as yours with the 120 Mercruiser, Can you let me know about the alignment tool you use for reassembly of the lower unit to the outdrive when changing the pump, I usually change the impeller and add some of the green grease to it. Thanks Dennis, Willoughby, Ohio We bought the boat used in 1981. We have taken up to Canada many times and use it in inland lakes and Lake Erie. I have a newer cover and canvas and windows for the convertable top.
Oh god, Skittles 2.0 is happening. It's the Beretta all over again!
I just can't help my self.
I'll give yall an 9.2 on the intro. Enjoyed the video.
Thank you kindly and thanks for watcing
youre not wrong on the way you set the valves. in a perfect world lol. on those old engines(pre1975 or therabouts) they didnt have hardened valve seats. so the seats wear causing valve recession. the stem actually sticks up higher and over time they loose lash. with hydraulic lifters they can compensate to a certain amount. you loosen them up beyond the compensation then remove the excess lash. now if one gets sticky the spring inside the lifter by itself may not be enough to move the piston in the lifter up. this is why so many prefer the running method because the oil pressure may pop the piston up. otherwise when you crank them down after removing the lash it may be taking out what compensation is left. but if the lifter is fine forget about what i just rambled on about.
what you may want to do is back them all off the two turns then crank it over to get the oil pumped into the lifters then do the adjustment. just a suggestion.
i got a vinyl cutter im playing with so i can scan in a small housing or old gasket and cut some new ones. i have an old eska that i scoured the internet to find gaskets so before i use these i,ll scan them for future use if the need arise.
wish i'd seen that borescope sooner. i got one on the truck for delivery that wifi's to a cell phone. a standalone would have been nicer.
Thank you for all the information for sure. I had a buddy try his laser cutter and it didn't like the thick gaskets.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina thats what i was wondering. there are ways to make multiple pass cuts etc ive seen others on youtube do it so it may be an adventure. or an adventure in futility lol still gotta try it. my little 3 oz ball n peen has made many a gasket if all else fails.
The 2.5 iron duke is a good little motor as well as the 3.0 litre its an enlarged displacement i think the stroke is longer but the bore are the same on these early gm 4 bangers good on fuel and good speed 👍
I would agree, thanks for watching
Bore on a 2.5 is 3.87 and the 3.0 is 4.00. The 3.0 uses the same piston as a small block 350
Another great video,always learn something from your video's. Those old flat tappett engines should have ZDDP zinc additive to keep the cam lobes from wearing out fast.
Great suggestion! I'm going to look up that ZDDP stuff right now. Thanks for watching
You need to open the throttle on the carb wide open when you do proper compression checks.
I used to hate those old chokes. Did it have a hole in the plate? We used to set them with a 3/16 gap not fully closed. I have been looking at similar inboard boats but I am afraid of cracked blocks up here in the Northeast
Well just run them on the muffs first and no water no cracks. Thanks for watching
Love your videos! I’m a subscriber and I just picked up my first boat because you seem to be having so much fun! 1975 StarCraft Holiday 22 I/O! It’s got retro yellow interior and it’s awesome! Got it out in the water for the first time over the weekend and the Merc 165 got hot. Temp gauge got to 220. I got off the water quick but I could use some advice for what may be the issue. My first thought is impeller. I’m a smart guy (IT Director), but I’m new to boats and mechanic work. Any advice would be appreciated. Since you love vintage StarCrafts, I’d like to connect with you. Thank you and keep making great content!
Love the intro brother
aMerica for sure, thanks for watching
Thanks for the great video! When I park my boat I always lower the outdrive to the full down position, it relaxes the lift mechanism and allows all the water to drain out. I also like to paint all my engine parts as I work on them or replace them. I painted the engine with red engine enamel and the exhaust manifolds and water housings with hi temp forest green. My girlfriend asked, why did you choose christmas colors? Lol
That's a great idea!
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina Also it is not recommend to run the engine with the outdrive up even in neutral due to the increased angle of the U-Joints because the shifting happens down in the lower drive. I'm sure you already know that I just wish someone would have told me that years ago when I bought my boat.
Only problem is your hydraulic pumps don't like being exposed for long durations, and will cause Seal leaks
One of my friends had a 120 Mercruiser on a 20’ Seacraft center console in Miami. It constantly broke down and required a tow in. The mechanic, Bill, would “fix it” and next trip same result. My friend made Bill go out with him after the third fix. Sure enough engine quit and they were drifting for hours. My friend said how do you like this? He got rid of that craft.
Sounds like he needed a good mechanic. These motors are too simple to have that much trouble. Thanks for watching
I don’t know about that. I had one in an 18ft Wellcraft. Kept in Salt Water in a Ft. Lauderdale canal. Survived constant use and teenage abuse. Never cooled down on weekends. Engine and drive outlasted the hull. When my friend’s boats were down, they always knew the Wellcraft was good to go.
I have a 470 merc been seeting for 8 years what should I do before starting
Lot's of stuff. Pull all the plugs and spray fogging oil in the cylinders. Pull the distributor and spin the oil pump to prime the lube system. There's more but those two things will keep you from destroying your engine.
What happened to the 1966 9.8 mercury part 2 of the rebuild low end. Part 1 was over 1year ago. Thank you.
I have all the parts now. Just got to get it back together.
First of all thank you for all the great videos. Can you make a video of you replacing the seals in the gear box of a 1981 25 hp Johnson ! That is what I have . I know that many are the same . I personally have not had one apart . Just looking for any hints on what to look fore . Thanks again Scott Cooper (Alden New York )
Yes I can
It is not an option in salt water (or should not be) but even in fresh I like a heat exchanger, closed cooling system, for the simple reason you can run anti freeze in the engine block. Anti freeze has other advantages beside freeze protection as it provides corrosion protection in your cooling passages which also improves cooling efficiency. The block will last far longer and also not build up corrosion particles and foreign debris enhancing its life and reliability. You can even go full boat and get a comprehensive system that Includes the manifolds so only your risers are left in contact with raw water. In salt water manifolds have a very limited lifespan and are not the cheapest thing on the engine so it is nice when they last longer than the normal five or six years. I am enjoying your working on the boat videos (brings back memories of decades gone by) not such a fan of the travel ones.
Salt water sucks from that perspective for sure, but there are many more fish in the salty waters for sure.
My boat was out in the river the other day and stop running.
My motor got hot win I tested it.
probably a bad impeller or thermostat. Thanks for watching
Intro was good , but you talked to long after .
I do like the sound of my own voice don't I, Thanks for watching
Skip the intro in my view. I have a lot of videos I like to view on YT with a limited amount of time and intros are a waste of my time. The title says all that needs to be said after that just dive right into the meat.
Noted!
No the intro is great, keep it. If this guy doesn't have the time he can spend it skipping the intro.