My 3500 was running smooth but under load would start running rough. If I pushed knob more towards start instead of run (giving it more fuel) it would run a little better. I tried everything and couldn’t fix it and then did this and also took a small piece of wire in all the ports as well as sprayed carb cleaner and it runs brand new now.👍
Awesome! I watched your videos once, decided to just buy a new carb. When I realized what I got didn’t match, I watched your video again and did as you said. My Genny went from barely running to running better than it even has. It even fixed the surging. Thanks!
Thank you for the video. With your “teaching” me, and other videos I completely rebuilt the carburetor and of course the ignition module replacement. Hardly a pull and it started up. 3 + years in shed after our hurricane here in Louisiana. Thank you
For this video being your first time doing this particular model, you did a pretty good job figuring it out as you went along! I know a lot of the foundational principals are the same, but it can really vary in practice from engine to engine.
Extremely helpful. Turned my barely running Predator into a smooth running machine! (Had to run with the choke on the entire time on my last camping trip.) Thanks again!!
I have the same harbor freight predator 3500 generator with only 41 hours and have the same rust plus problems. I've been using Sta-bill 360 protection since new and didn't seem to work. Inside the fuel tank was very rusty, the fuel filter (strainer) was plugged. I know after you use the Evapo-Rust you have to flush with water, howwould you do this? Thanks
There's a petcock attached to the back of the run/start knob. Apparently, they fail and I have a replacement on order from HF. My other issue is the needle valve is also leaking... ends up filling up the air box with fuel if it sits. Any idea of a part number for a replacement needle valve?
i empty the float bowl for storage when not using. how much gas should come out of that thing? my sisters's just keeps coming and i only turned screw once.
@@smallengineguys Thank you for the video. It was really helpful. I did clean the carb on my Predator after watching your video and it is running again. 👍
I love my 3500 and have had it for about 4 plus years so far. I am having a problem right now with mine. When I go to turn it off it keeps wanting to run and chug, and like it's dying but just won't shut off. Could it be the carb or? Any advice?
sounds like the kill switch. so when you turn the on off dial it does 2 things. 1 it shuts off the fuel 2 it kills spark. sometimes the killswitch breaks but fuel shuts off. in this case it takes about 10 minutes to die
@@smallengineguys Hi and thank you for the reply. Can I get a new one through HF parts if it is the killswitch? I am pretty mechanical and also want to try pulling the carb and cleaning it also and try adjusting the valves. It is over 4 yrs old and has put her through much use.
@@mrgreenbudz37 you should be able to get the kill switch from hf. I usualy have the customers just let it run out of gas. This way it's empty and ready for storage.
@@smallengineguys I run the generator daily just hate listening to it chug, chug chug for 3 plus min makes me want to shoot the poor thing and put it out of its misery, lol. So the killswitch is the actual on off knob?
yeah so if you look in the middle of the knob youll see a screw. i think its a small phillips. take it off remove the knob. now you can see a pair of white lobes that will move up and down. up is on down is off. now tear the whole machine apart to get to the 2 screws holding the switch in.
My Predator 3500 generator is fairly new, as far as run time. It’s only been used under load for 2 hours. The rest of the hours are 1 hour run times each month to keep it exercised. This last run it started easy but ran real rough. I switched out the spark plug right when I bought it to a BPR7EZ 5534 Spark Plug. I pulled the spark plug out to see why it’s running rough and it look pretty black, so I install a new spark plug, ran better but not as good as it did before. I also drained out all the fuel to see if there was any dirt in the fuel or tank, both were spotless. I run Shell V-Power® NiTRO+ Premium Gasoline and removed all the water. Could it be the carburetor and is there an additive that will clean the carb without tearing it down? I need your expertise. Thanks
Drain the carb. There is a drain bolt on the bowl. Use low octane fuel. Its more explosive. Its also what they run best on. Fill tank and put whole can of sea foam. It may clean it out.
25 bucks. Ok lets think about this. I at my shop do 30 carbs a day. So your suggesting i pull all these carbs and what ultrasonic them clean overnight? Lets say just an hour. You understand the absolute mess that would cause having shit torn apart in the shop. Also this is for a homeowner. Are you suggesting they buy a 25 dollar ultrasonic when the carbs are 25 bucks.
@smallengineguys what's the best way to drain the fuel on these. I just ran mine out of fuel and now won't start. I pulled it 10 15 times and fuel was just pouring out of the overflow tube. I'm assuming it's a stuck float ? I need to pull it off and see what's up.
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My 3500 was running smooth but under load would start running rough. If I pushed knob more towards start instead of run (giving it more fuel) it would run a little better. I tried everything and couldn’t fix it and then did this and also took a small piece of wire in all the ports as well as sprayed carb cleaner and it runs brand new now.👍
Awesome! I watched your videos once, decided to just buy a new carb. When I realized what I got didn’t match, I watched your video again and did as you said. My Genny went from barely running to running better than it even has. It even fixed the surging.
Thanks!
glad i could help!!
Thank you for the video.
With your “teaching” me, and other videos I completely rebuilt the carburetor and of course the ignition module replacement.
Hardly a pull and it started up.
3 + years in shed after our hurricane here in Louisiana.
Thank you
Glad i could help
For this video being your first time doing this particular model, you did a pretty good job figuring it out as you went along! I know a lot of the foundational principals are the same, but it can really vary in practice from engine to engine.
The ending was a little discouraging since it just ends abruptly. But it helped me with figuring out my issues so thank you very much.
Extremely helpful. Turned my barely running Predator into a smooth running machine! (Had to run with the choke on the entire time on my last camping trip.) Thanks again!!
Glad it helped!
this fixed my problem. thank you SOOOOO much !!!!!
Very helpful, thank you! I had one of the vent tubes leaking fuel and this solved my problems.
Good info. I have one of these little generators and am having some idling issues. I’ll give this a try. Thank you for posting!
Def will work. Don't forget the idle jet under the idle screw.
Another generator fixed because of this video. Thanks!
Glad I could help!
I’m having issues with it starting up on start, soon as I switch to RUN it cuts off. I’ll be cleaning the carb tomr and see what’s happens !
I have the same harbor freight predator 3500 generator with only 41 hours and have the same rust plus problems. I've been using Sta-bill 360 protection since new and didn't seem to work. Inside the fuel tank was very rusty, the fuel filter (strainer) was plugged. I know after you use the Evapo-Rust you have to flush with water, howwould you do this? Thanks
Best video I found on this issue.. Thanks 👍
Great video. This helped me clean my carb now my generator is running great. Thanks.
Brother you freaking rock! Excellent video! I did exactly as you did and this bad boy runs like a dream! Thank you
Glad it helped!
Great video. Saved me from buying a new carb.
Any idea of the M size for the idle screw? I can't believe that's made out of plastic 😒Mine snapped and I can't find a replacement anywhere for it
Same one in any honda carb. Go to any mom and pop small engine shop and see if they got a junk carb anywhere.
Nice, you the man dude! Make it look easy. Although your video cut out at the end...
Lol i know but all the important stuff was there so i posted it anyway
you can do as many carbs as u have room for seriously saves time
There's a petcock attached to the back of the run/start knob. Apparently, they fail and I have a replacement on order from HF. My other issue is the needle valve is also leaking... ends up filling up the air box with fuel if it sits. Any idea of a part number for a replacement needle valve?
No its usualy just a cleaning. Rub needle valve gently on a pair of jeans in circular motion. Other than that its the same carb as eu3000 honda
did you ever find the correct needle valve? currently facing the same issue.
😂
😂
s
i empty the float bowl for storage when not using. how much gas should come out of that thing? my sisters's just keeps coming and i only turned screw once.
keeps going till tank is empty sometimes
Omg excellent excellent excellent video what happened? It just stopped. We didn’t get to see what the end result was.
Well I get paid to make them run. I'm a small engine shop
Always check the spark arrestor on the end of the exhaust. It will plug up and the engine will not run.
that is a common issue but this wasnt a trouble shooting video. simply a how to carb cleaning video
@@smallengineguys Thank you for the video. It was really helpful. I did clean the carb on my Predator after watching your video and it is running again. 👍
I ran my partator generator out of fule and now wont start ... would this be the solution ?
takes a few cranks to get going sometimes. but id check the oil make sure its full. you probably let it run low and the safety shut off.
Thx for your video. It helped alot.
Do you have to drain the gas first?
yep
I love my 3500 and have had it for about 4 plus years so far. I am having a problem right now with mine. When I go to turn it off it keeps wanting to run and chug, and like it's dying but just won't shut off. Could it be the carb or? Any advice?
sounds like the kill switch. so when you turn the on off dial it does 2 things. 1 it shuts off the fuel 2 it kills spark. sometimes the killswitch breaks but fuel shuts off. in this case it takes about 10 minutes to die
@@smallengineguys Hi and thank you for the reply. Can I get a new one through HF parts if it is the killswitch? I am pretty mechanical and also want to try pulling the carb and cleaning it also and try adjusting the valves. It is over 4 yrs old and has put her through much use.
@@mrgreenbudz37 you should be able to get the kill switch from hf. I usualy have the customers just let it run out of gas. This way it's empty and ready for storage.
@@smallengineguys I run the generator daily just hate listening to it chug, chug chug for 3 plus min makes me want to shoot the poor thing and put it out of its misery, lol. So the killswitch is the actual on off knob?
yeah so if you look in the middle of the knob youll see a screw. i think its a small phillips. take it off remove the knob. now you can see a pair of white lobes that will move up and down. up is on down is off. now tear the whole machine apart to get to the 2 screws holding the switch in.
Having trouble removing a stuck fuel line from the carburater housing. Any tips?
Grab with pliers twist from side to side it will turn once it turns it will come off
You da man! Video was so helpful.
My Predator 3500 generator is fairly new, as far as run time. It’s only been used under load for 2 hours. The rest of the hours are 1 hour run times each month to keep it exercised. This last run it started easy but ran real rough. I switched out the spark plug right when I bought it to a BPR7EZ 5534 Spark Plug. I pulled the spark plug out to see why it’s running rough and it look pretty black, so I install a new spark plug, ran better but not as good as it did before. I also drained out all the fuel to see if there was any dirt in the fuel or tank, both were spotless. I run Shell V-Power® NiTRO+ Premium Gasoline and removed all the water. Could it be the carburetor and is there an additive that will clean the carb without tearing it down? I need your expertise. Thanks
Drain the carb. There is a drain bolt on the bowl. Use low octane fuel. Its more explosive. Its also what they run best on. Fill tank and put whole can of sea foam. It may clean it out.
Great video and explanation
Glad you liked it!
Thanx for the video!
My please re!
Where the hoses on the carb go ?
Drain lines and overflow just go down
My power generator keeps leaking when I put run or start why? Can some help me
Carb probably needs cleaning
Excellent video THANKS
Your welcome!
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Man. I gotta be a mechanic to do this.
its not that bad just clean clean clean. watch this video a hundred times. u got this
So you work on the carburetor while constantly yanking on the wire for the electronic throttle...
Yep
My fuel line was plugged at the connector to the tank…..
No part on reinstalling the idle screw lmao
Realy. Thats what your stuck on. Screwing a screw in. Hire a professional this is beyond you
Helped w my float needle valve not seating and leaking fuel
Perfect!!
man an ultra sonic is only 25 bucks
25 bucks. Ok lets think about this. I at my shop do 30 carbs a day. So your suggesting i pull all these carbs and what ultrasonic them clean overnight? Lets say just an hour. You understand the absolute mess that would cause having shit torn apart in the shop. Also this is for a homeowner. Are you suggesting they buy a 25 dollar ultrasonic when the carbs are 25 bucks.
I will buy you a 🍺 thanks 👍🏻🤜🏻
under the video youll see a heart that says thanks just click on it!
Do you need to drain the fuel first ?
I always drain the fuel when I clean a carb.
@smallengineguys what's the best way to drain the fuel on these. I just ran mine out of fuel and now won't start. I pulled it 10 15 times and fuel was just pouring out of the overflow tube. I'm assuming it's a stuck float ? I need to pull it off and see what's up.
stuck needle valve clean the carb