I had a new oil furnace and burner installed a few years ago, Burnham with a becket. I was told the optimum setting for winter is 180-200 setting for optimal heat transfer. That's what I've been using.
Do you prefer the $11 universal Crown 40445 or the $17 Beckett Z2000u that can set depth without removing the whole assembly? The Crown has included an adjustment variation based on nozzle angle.
Pull the shell off the boiler typically there is an access point in the outer case of the combustion chamber, as long as the boiler is clean and CO2and nozzle setting are correct you should be fine. People don't know that changing the entire burner is equal to changing your cars motor . complete their about $500.00 supplyhouse.com has great prices. Good luck!
After changing my nozzle and getting all the soot out, I now notice red fuel oil dripping out the bottom of the furnace (not from the burner pump or motor), not much about 3/4 teaspoon. I re-positioned the gun assembly moving it forward till the electrodes touch the retention head then backing off slightly, so the assemble moved forward about 1/8 inch. Ignition times starts fire 0.02 I have a pro tek strainer on the back of the nozzle. When i removed the gun assembly the electrode tips (there rather new, not worn) were very black from the tip about 3/16 back plus the new nozzle blacks up some, could the oil spray be hitting these tips causing oil to go to the bottom, fire looks OK. The retention head looked very clean and dry. Blast tube was clean and dry, no oil in motor housing. I noticed some oil on the underside of the transformer and on the cad cell.
Thanks, I got the electrode alignment in the manual for the burner. I also tried using a 2" inspection mirror through the sight port, after some patience adjusting it around some I was able to see the nozzle in the combustion chamber, I'm pretty sure the gun assembly was set back too far. My gun assembly wont come out unless I loosen the set screw, so I marked the position.
I still have oil leaking from the bottom of the combustion chamber under the burner, I can't feel any oil leakage under the pump or motor. When I tilt back the transformer there is a light coating of oil on the underside and drops of oil drip out the front of the cad cell. My furnace blast tube is sloped some into the combustion chamber, I tried the pump pressure at 100 and 106 psi same issue. On the gun assembly the tip of the nozzle is about even with the inner area of the retention head. I just can't figure out what is causing all the oil splashing around. Changed nozzle twice (.75 80A) nothing looks cracked or broken on the gun assembly. Motor fan turn forward towards the chamber. OK I found that if I shine a flashlight through the air band I see oil spraying around on top of the coupler area, and dripping on the bottom of the air band. Am I correct to say the pump rear seal is bad ? I can still adjust the pump pressure manually and have it set for 100psi now.
Thank you, i do have old type oil furnace,(boiler and oil burner) , and two zone, and baseboard hot water heaters, i have it on 140-160, i wonder make it(in cold season) different to lower the numbers, or higher them to save on oil,i live in eastern Canada....sometimes gets to -10 C, or even more cold time,
Your numbers are quite low at 160 with baseboard convectors. I would recommend 180 for baseboards. As to saving on oil, lower temps may help (although not much) in the milder temps. Hope this helps. GFM
If you don't have a Beckett measuring tool, is the depth measured from the top of the nozzle to the end of the barrel or the top ring with the mounting screws that goes around the top of the barrel? The depth on my Beckett is 1 1/8". Thanks
Hi,first thank you for your videos,i asked you in you other video too that, i have set my temperature on my furnace "winter time" on ...low 140 and hi 160,and diff on 20, are these are good setting?
My earlier answer was of the wall thermostat. As for boiler temps, it depends on the type of radiation. Cast iron radiators will operate with temps of 120-140 for mild temps, with an adjustment 140-160 for lower outdoor temps. Baseboard units will need higher temps such as 170-190. Hope this helps. GFM
I'm not getting fuel oil out of the gun, pump is working and getting fuel oil to it. I am not getting it out of nozzle. Nozzle has been clean and lines blown out, still nothing. Any ideas would help
hi i like this video, up till no i have managed to service my boiler myself, but i have now messed bout with it so much it all needs resetting. this Becket guage seems to only be available in the states. any idea what it might be called in france or UK. its too crazy to buy one for .99$ and pay 10$ postage. failing that could i make my own? just for the gunner, the distance in mm from the jet to the edge of the metal plate. hoping someone can help! its getting cold!! thank you
The depth is 28mm. You can just use a tape measure from the nozzle to the end of the burner tube with the head installed. This works for most Beckett burners. GFM
the end of the burner tube? is that the metal plate that the nozzle pokes through? or the end of the overal tube that the whole thing sits in? are these measurements fairly similar across the board with different burners? ta again.
If it is a Beckett burner, the end of the tube that contains the gun assembly has a sheet metal head mounted on the end. The distance is measured from this head to the nozzle. GFM
I think it's crazy for you to be so cheap that you won't spend $10 to be warm, they come free with an electrode kit , just spend $11 on a electrode kit this way you feel like you're getting your money's worth. tighter than two coats of paint mama!
+grayfurnaceman thanks a lot..... make one video about the steps to adjust the burner...... how to can calculate the distance of the nozzle if you dont have manual?
I had a new oil furnace and burner installed a few years ago, Burnham with a becket.
I was told the optimum setting for winter is 180-200 setting for optimal heat transfer. That's what I've been using.
dhowar I would agree if the convection is baseboard.
GFM
Do you prefer the $11 universal Crown 40445 or the $17 Beckett Z2000u that can set depth without removing the whole assembly?
The Crown has included an adjustment variation based on nozzle angle.
I can't say I have ever used the UC.
GFM
BECKETT Z2000u is easy to use, priced cheap, exact, and very accurate. Strongly recommended.
I want to say thank you for your videos I fix my heater thanks to you. your videos are a big help! thank you again.
Welcome
GFM
I do have baseboard. Thanks for your reply and for the video.
My old boiler (Remco) always needed cleaning and was not very efficient.
Pull the shell off the boiler typically there is an access point in the outer case of the combustion chamber, as long as the boiler is clean and CO2and nozzle setting are correct you should be fine. People don't know that changing the entire burner is equal to changing your cars motor . complete their about $500.00 supplyhouse.com has great prices. Good luck!
Can I assume this device does the same job as those orange plastic Z-Guages?
Yes
GFM
After changing my nozzle and getting all the soot out, I now notice red fuel oil dripping out the bottom of the furnace (not from the burner pump or motor), not much about 3/4 teaspoon. I re-positioned the gun assembly moving it forward till the electrodes touch the retention head then backing off slightly, so the assemble moved forward about 1/8 inch. Ignition times starts fire 0.02
I have a pro tek strainer on the back of the nozzle. When i removed the gun assembly the electrode tips (there rather new, not worn) were very black from the tip about 3/16 back plus the new nozzle blacks up some, could the oil spray be hitting these tips causing oil to go to the bottom, fire looks OK. The retention head looked very clean and dry. Blast tube was clean and dry, no oil in motor housing. I noticed some oil on the underside of the transformer and on the cad cell.
They could. The tips should be aligned with the end of the nozzle or slightly back.
GFM
Thanks, I got the electrode alignment in the manual for the burner. I also tried using a 2" inspection mirror through the sight port, after some patience adjusting it around some I was able to see the nozzle in the combustion chamber, I'm pretty sure the gun assembly was set back too far. My gun assembly wont come out unless I loosen the set screw, so I marked the position.
I still have oil leaking from the bottom of the combustion chamber under the burner, I can't feel any oil leakage under the pump or motor. When I tilt back the transformer there is a light coating of oil on the underside and drops of oil drip out the front of the cad cell. My furnace blast tube is sloped some into the combustion chamber, I tried the pump pressure at 100 and 106 psi same issue. On the gun assembly the tip of the nozzle is about even with the inner area of the retention head. I just can't figure out what is causing all the oil splashing around. Changed nozzle twice (.75 80A) nothing looks cracked or broken on the gun assembly. Motor fan turn forward towards the chamber. OK I found that if I shine a flashlight through the air band I see oil spraying around on top of the coupler area, and dripping on the bottom of the air band. Am I correct to say the pump rear seal is bad ? I can still adjust the pump pressure manually and have it set for 100psi now.
Are you sure the pump seal is not leaking?
GFM
Yes I do believe it's the pump shaft seal I have ordered a couple. Turned off the furnace for now, using electric heaters.
Those gun stops usually had a tamper proof screw so people didn’t mess with the setting, or loosen the wrong fastener to pull the gun assy out.
Thanks for your Great videos
Thank you, i do have old type oil furnace,(boiler and oil burner) , and two zone, and baseboard hot water heaters, i have it on 140-160, i wonder make it(in cold season) different to lower the numbers, or higher them to save on oil,i live in eastern Canada....sometimes gets to -10 C, or even more cold time,
Your numbers are quite low at 160 with baseboard convectors. I would recommend 180 for baseboards. As to saving on oil, lower temps may help (although not much) in the milder temps. Hope this helps.
GFM
When i removed mine tht part remained in the furnace?
If you don't have a Beckett measuring tool, is the depth measured from the top of the nozzle to the end of the barrel or the top ring with the mounting screws that goes around the top of the barrel? The depth on my Beckett is 1 1/8". Thanks
You are ok. It is from the nozzle to the finished end of the burner tube.
GFM
good one, thank you for all your efforts...
Hi,first thank you for your videos,i asked you in you other video too that, i have set my temperature on my furnace "winter time" on ...low 140 and hi 160,and diff on 20, are these are good setting?
My earlier answer was of the wall thermostat. As for boiler temps, it depends on the type of radiation. Cast iron radiators will operate with temps of 120-140 for mild temps, with an adjustment 140-160 for lower outdoor temps. Baseboard units will need higher temps such as 170-190. Hope this helps.
GFM
I'm not getting fuel oil out of the gun, pump is working and getting fuel oil to it. I am not getting it out of nozzle. Nozzle has been clean and lines blown out, still nothing. Any ideas would help
If you are getting oil and pressure to the nozzle, the nozzle is plugged.
GFM
hi i like this video, up till no i have managed to service my boiler myself, but i have now messed bout with it so much it all needs resetting. this Becket guage seems to only be available in the states. any idea what it might be called in france or UK. its too crazy to buy one for .99$ and pay 10$ postage. failing that could i make my own? just for the gunner, the distance in mm from the jet to the edge of the metal plate. hoping someone can help! its getting cold!! thank you
The depth is 28mm. You can just use a tape measure from the nozzle to the end of the burner tube with the head installed. This works for most Beckett burners.
GFM
Thank you i will give that a go. although i cant find any identification on the burner unit itself as to what make it is.
the end of the burner tube? is that the metal plate that the nozzle pokes through? or the end of the overal tube that the whole thing sits in? are these measurements fairly similar across the board with different burners? ta again.
If it is a Beckett burner, the end of the tube that contains the gun assembly has a sheet metal head mounted on the end. The distance is measured from this head to the nozzle.
GFM
I think it's crazy for you to be so cheap that you won't spend $10 to be warm, they come free with an electrode kit , just spend $11 on a electrode kit this way you feel like you're getting your money's worth. tighter than two coats of paint mama!
that tool 501 its feet to any burner ?
It only fits the Beckett.
GFM
+grayfurnaceman thanks a lot..... make one video about the steps to adjust the burner...... how to can calculate the distance of the nozzle if you dont have manual?
I will put it on the list.
GFM
I need help
ऑक्स बॉयलर का वीडियो चाहिए
Scusa io ho un bruciatore a gasolio posso convertirlo ad olio usato
No. The used motor oil must be heated prior to mixing with air for combustion.
GFM