Those look like some really fun projects. I will be sending an order to Ruth Niles for this winter's shop time. You answered many of my friction polish questions with this video. Once again, I learned a ton. Thanks Sam!
Great instructional video. Didn't have any idea that there were that many combinations for friction polish out there. Makes for a nice shine and not too complicated. Thanks for sharing. I get jealous when I see all the Robust lathes you have in your shop!!
Thank you Sam...you cleared up finishing question mark in my mind...my go to finish is toug oil..and I have used it as a friction polish without having knowledge I could...
Hi Sam, Just tuned in great subject to cover the friction polishes, enjoy your videos,thanks for sharing ,thirty years ago our local woodturning club would pay for “artists”to show their methods to us all over a weekend. I’m allways grateful for this medium we have now with all the “artists” giving tips tricks and knowledge for us all to learn something new. Thank you I’ve subscribed Regards from N Z
Very good finish to the finish. Both finishes produced a very good result. Excellent demonstration of the application on each of them. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.
Sam, Very interesting and informative videos. I learn a lot. I enjoy them very much. I’m new to all this and it really helps me. You did a demo on thread chasing for our club, Willamette Valley Wood Turners early this year. I had just started wood turning and it was beyond me at the time, but it was still well done. Thanks. Roger D.
I liked the content, continuity and visuals of this video. I've used all of the woods you used and all of the friction polishes, and your examples are sure to be helpful to someone who has not done this. I think that a CA or epoxy finish on the meat tenderizer might be more suitable than a permeable shellac/wax finish, though.
Excellent video, Sam. A lot of times I want an extremely high finish shine. I accomplish this by using some slick sidded brown craft paper and burnish the final coat after it is dry to where no finger prints show. Just thought I would pass this on!
Nice vid. I know I can’t be the first to tell you this, but you sound more like Ray Romano than Ray Romano does. If you ever get tired of this, you always have a future in comedy ; )
Forget the epoxy; I simply unscrew the "business end", wash it and reassemble when done. Handle is sealed by the finish. I don't glue in the hardware for bottle stoppers either. I just turn them to the right when opening or closing. That way, I can always unscrew the hardware and put it back on the lathe if I ever needed to refinish. I generally finish with the CA glue process or lacquer and it's not an issue.
Appreciated the display of a broad range of friction polishes; I had wondered if BLO would work well for that application, you demonstrated that it does. Does tung oil make a good friction polish or does it take too long to cure to use in that application? My first exposure to friction finishes was Mahoney’s Walnut oil followed with a coating of beeswax. It’s a nice utilitarian finish for things like tool handles or boxes.
Thanks Samalways learn something from your videos. Probably to late now but I wouldn't epoxy the meat tenderizer that way you can unscrew the metal part and toss it in the dishwasher. That's what I did with my pizza cutter, much easier to clean. Let us know how the meat tenderizer works. The one I have is like a big hard plastic mallet and a big chunk broke off it the last time I used it.
You said you were using 600 grit sand paper on the bottle opener. I noticed that it was scalloped, could I ask where you get them from? I've been looking for an outlet for 2" scalloped disc but have only found them up to 400 grit.
I agree-Friction leads to heat......Did I say something different or leave out this point. I am always willing to learn, especially if I am saying something incorrectly Sam
Cracking results Sam,and plenty of food for thought!👌👌👌👌👌👌👌😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎
Love the use of the self powered sander.
Very informative Sam. Nice handles!
so awesome !
Those look like some really fun projects. I will be sending an order to Ruth Niles for this winter's shop time. You answered many of my friction polish questions with this video. Once again, I learned a ton. Thanks Sam!
Great instructional video. Didn't have any idea that there were that many combinations for friction polish out there. Makes for a nice shine and not too complicated. Thanks for sharing. I get jealous when I see all the Robust lathes you have in your shop!!
Great tutorial Sam - Thanks -- Dennis
Great job Sam. I always learn something.
Loved this 3 part series I have learned more things from. Thanks Sam for sharing
Thank you Sam...you cleared up finishing question mark in my mind...my go to finish is toug oil..and I have used it as a friction polish without having knowledge I could...
Hi Sam,
Just tuned in great subject to cover the friction polishes, enjoy your videos,thanks for sharing ,thirty years ago our local woodturning club would pay for “artists”to show their methods to us all over a weekend.
I’m allways grateful for this medium we have now with all the “artists” giving tips tricks and knowledge for us all to learn something new.
Thank you I’ve subscribed
Regards from N Z
Very good finish to the finish. Both finishes produced a very good result. Excellent demonstration of the application on each of them. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge... appreciate you!
Sam,
Very interesting and informative videos. I learn a lot. I enjoy them very much. I’m new to all this and it really helps me.
You did a demo on thread chasing for our club, Willamette Valley Wood Turners early this year. I had just started wood turning and it was beyond me at the time, but it was still well done. Thanks. Roger D.
Thanks, I remember the demo. Thanks Sam
Great looking pieces Sam. Thanks for sharing and teaching.
Take care, Dave
Thanks Dave.....
I liked the content, continuity and visuals of this video. I've used all of the woods you used and all of the friction polishes, and your examples are sure to be helpful to someone who has not done this. I think that a CA or epoxy finish on the meat tenderizer might be more suitable than a permeable shellac/wax finish, though.
Excellent video, Sam. A lot of times I want an extremely high finish shine. I accomplish this by using some slick sidded brown craft paper and burnish the final coat after it is dry to where no finger prints show. Just thought I would pass this on!
Yep, I got to try this....Sam
Thanks Sam always helpful. Love the Acks products. My shine juice seems to always streak on me! Gave up on it!
Watch my next notes video, I have an answer for this....Sam
Nice vid. I know I can’t be the first to tell you this, but you sound more like Ray Romano than Ray Romano does. If you ever get tired of this, you always have a future in comedy ; )
Forget the epoxy; I simply unscrew the "business end", wash it and reassemble when done. Handle is sealed by the finish. I don't glue in the hardware for bottle stoppers either. I just turn them to the right when opening or closing. That way, I can always unscrew the hardware and put it back on the lathe if I ever needed to refinish. I generally finish with the CA glue process or lacquer and it's not an issue.
I finally decided not to glue in the metal on the meat tenderizer project. Thank Sam
oil & alcohol (water) ? I need to test that
amazing passion included. thanks!
Would not epoxy the handle to the tenderizer because of cleaning the metal surface. I use a metal insert in the handle.
Eric,
I totally agree. I arrived at the same conclusion I did not epoxy the handle into the threaded insert.
Sam thanks
Thanks again Sam I’d like to know what kind of threads is on the bottle stoppers
I will address this comment in my
next Notes from the Turning Shop video for January Sam
Appreciated the display of a broad range of friction polishes; I had wondered if BLO would work well for that application, you demonstrated that it does. Does tung oil make a good friction polish or does it take too long to cure to use in that application? My first exposure to friction finishes was Mahoney’s Walnut oil followed with a coating of beeswax. It’s a nice utilitarian finish for things like tool handles or boxes.
I need to try the tung oil as a friction polish. Sam
Thanks Samalways learn something from your videos. Probably to late now but I wouldn't epoxy the meat tenderizer that way you can unscrew the metal part and toss it in the dishwasher. That's what I did with my pizza cutter, much easier to clean. Let us know how the meat tenderizer works. The one I have is like a big hard plastic mallet and a big chunk broke off it the last time I used it.
I agree-I did not glue it in. Sam
Great. Do you wax as a finish as carnuba👍
Once in a while... but I feel the wax usually will wear off in time. Sam
You said you were using 600 grit sand paper on the bottle opener. I noticed that it was scalloped, could I ask where you get them from? I've been looking for an outlet for 2" scalloped disc but have only found them up to 400 grit.
I need to check to see where I got them. Not sure. Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER thank you
Suggest you remove your tool rest and move the banjo down the lathe ways. This will be more convenient and safer
Yes I need to show better safety methods etc. Sam
Hello Sam..hope your steak is nice and tender:):):).As always very nice and informative video
Ioannis (Athens Greece)
Hello Athens!!!! wow-a small world. Sam
Second.
Fiction produces heat - not the other way around
I agree-Friction leads to heat......Did I say something different or leave out this point. I am always willing to learn, especially if I am saying something incorrectly Sam