TIG AC Balance Explained | Everlast Welders
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- Опубликовано: 1 июл 2020
- AC Balance is a setting on your machine that determines how much cleaning and hot much penetration you are going to get out. of your AC waveform. Here's a quick breakdown:
AC balance switches between DC+ (cleaning) and DC- (penetration). You can adjust how fast it switches with your AC frequency, but we'll save that for another video. The cleaning side of the waveform breaks up the Aluminum oxide that forms on all aluminum. When TIG welding Aluminum it is important to break up that oxide so the DC- can do its job and penetrate into the base metal.
When you adjust the percentage of balance on your Everlast machine you are adjusting the EP side of the wave. So 35% balance equals 35% EP.
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Хобби
best explained I have ever heard about AC balance
You guys are killing it! Good to see manufacturers putting out non salesy, educational content to help the community 🔥🔥👊👊 Keep at it.
Thanks for supporting the channel fellas 👊
Much appreciated!!! Just having some fun spreading the good word!
This is the thing all manufacturers need to do! I have two of your machines and could not be happier. The fact that you give us quality content here on youtube combined with a great customer service is stellar! I hope more companies follow your lead!
3 thumbs down? Looks like the Miller sales team found the video....
Even though I own a different brand, this is great info for those of us that are self taught RUclips students of the craft. You are an excellent teacher. Precise information presented in a manner that keeps the student focused and interested.
This has to be one of the best videos covering this info, Thanks Jesse
I'm not sure where you found this guy, Everlast. But he is made for demonstration videos. Super knowledgeable while delivering the information in a manner that even novices can understand. Jesse is a badass
Indeed he is... We literally just wrapped on 7 more vids with him this weekend. So stay tuned.
they explained it very well, i liked the video a lot. Greetings from Austria from the manufacturing country of the fronius welding machine.
They are made in the village of Wels i think?
Very good teacher. Respect from grecce
Jesse is wonderful at explaining TIG welding and was a big part of me choosing the 210EXT. Thank-you!!
Excellent Video Jesse! I have 30 years in TV news and reporting, but just starting in welding. You are concise and to the point, Your graphics are near perfect. Your video of the actual weld pool is the clearest I’ve seen. From a TV guy’s perspective, you and your crew did yourself proud. Well done!
Thanks for the kind words 🙏
Camera guy does a fine job of making me look semi decent! Thank you, truly, for your compliments, hopefully we can keep it up for everyone!
Hey, this is the third video I came across from you, guys. I'm amazed by your content, never seen something like this, when dealing with welding.
For starters, I like the part you're keeping things Short & Concise. Secondly, I enjoy you keep edit your videos with the settings you're running when welding. Another aspect is that you align the pieces to see the comparison for ourselves. One more thing that you beat your competition with is that you use graphs so we can understand the logical thing that's happening when we weld. In the end, I'm in awe that you explain every function on a welding machine, so we will know how and when we should use those.
I don't know if you teach us how to MIG or MMA weld, but that would be awesome.
Also, a section of the pieces after you weld them is always a bonus.
Excellent video! You're up there with Jody! I love my Everlast 256i and the tech support I get when I've needed advice on machine!
Ohhhhh that's a reach to put me up there, but I appreciate the support! If you're on Facebook we offer quite a bit of help on the everlast group page as well, there are 4 or 5 brand ambassadors that keep a close on eye on the page to help with questions!
Usually settle in around 30-35%
Thanks for all the information!
Thank you. Great examples and very well explained.
Top!!
Thank you from Italy 💪🏻😎
Another great and informative video, thanks.
Awesome! Respect from Hungary!
Very good teacher and very good video, Many THANKS!
That video its help a lot!!! Thanks
Nice! Great video.
Very informative, thank you
Great review Jesse. Thank you.
Thanks man! I appreciate the support!
Nice explanation!
Excelente video estimado!
Good explanation
Very easy to understand, thanks
Hey that's what I was shooting for, enough info to be helpful but not so complicated its hard to digest it all
Jesse i have a mig welder miller 251 a fellow brought me a transmission to weld it was very oily it didnt weld very good what would be good to clean something like that ? thanks love the videos even though i dont have a tig welder
Miller boxes seem to like higher cleaning numbers, but this is excellent info!
Thankyou sir
Have an everlast 315 lx can't go under 50% bal or it just destroys 1/8 in tungsten
Love it, KIS
Stupid. KISS.
Jesse should I just go right for the 255ext or will I be good with the 210ext? I’m not doing production, just building custom cars and bikes. Intercoolers turbos, stuff like that. This is my 9-5 plus my own builds after hours so it’s gonna get used 24/7. I do plan to get the cooler.
Hello, I just bought a 325ext. I have a question about welding aluminum. The torch is connected to the negative and I have to put 30 or 70 on the balance? Or positive and put 30 on the balance? Thank you Everlast I await your response.
Please could you put the MTS 211 publication. If I would like to ask you, Jesse, is this machine capable of MIG welding aluminum and does it need any additional attachments?
Greetings friend.
Good vid can you do base frequency percentage video 👍
Already filmed and in the queue for release 👊
Thanks bro, that's great I bought the 255EXT still in the box, I need to upgrade my work shop circuit breaker .. I think 32 amps rated .. ?? cheers David from Australia 👍
255 is a great machine, I do believe the rated amperage draw is 34 amps (when on 240v) when machine output is 255amps. Personally, I would recommend a 50 amp breaker if you have the wiring to support it, but a 40 should sufficient
👍
Greetings from the USA FTE. !
So it looks like ~35% is the best combination generally, while lower gives better penetration (thicker material?)
What would be the application for running at 50% if it's harder on your tungsten and harder to control?
I generally run 35% for pretty much everything... Sometimes when i'm working with dirty cast, i'll go up to 40 45 just to burn out some of the contaminates in the base material. In this video, going to 50 was more for demonstration purposes, showing on the extreme side, how balance affects everything to give an understanding of what it does
I bought the MTS 221 STi..what settings and electrode would work best for .125 aluminum
I would run 1/8 2% lanthanted tungsten, 120hz, 30 to 35% balance if its clean material, and have the machine set to 130 amps or so
@@jessemccollum 1/8th rod?..how much gas you recommend?
@@rickystone4137 I would use 3/32 filler for a good fit up, and only 1/8 for a larger gap. Gas flow would vary by cup size. A good general rule of thumb is double your cup size for CFH... #5 cup=10cfh, #8=16cfh. I typically run a gas lens with a number 8 cup, but I run praxair's stargon AL mix at 20 to 25 cfh... Its an odd setup though and just something I have found works well for me. You have to remember this stuff is a lot like baking; I have my recipe, the next guy has his, we both end up with chocolate chip cookies at the end of the day... If that makes any sense haha
What kind of tungsten are you running?
1/8 2% lanthanted for all videos i'm hosting. Its pretty much all i use unless I get into material less than .065, then i'll start jumping down in diameter.
I don’t get the “10 second post flow because we’ve got 100 amps max” bit. What does post flow have to do with amps?
1 second of post flow per 10 amps. 100 amps=10 seconds. Its a good general rule of thumb on how much post flow is needed at a given amperage to protect the tungsten.
Jesse McCollum I’ve. Ever heard of the\is “rule” and I’ve been doing this since 1973. I’ve got almost all the standard texts, and none of them mention it. Neither do the other channels such as 6061, Jody’s welding tips and tricks, Weld.com, and others. So if you’re using 200 amps, you got to wait 20 seconds? Nuts! It’s the temperature of the metal that determines that, and once you get above may 30 amps, or so, the temp is the same. You’re a,so doing this to protect your weld. What do you have to say about stainless?
@@melgross the importance of post flow on AC is not to protect the base material, but to keep the tungsten shielded until it has cooled so that it does not oxidize. If you're welding aluminum and your tungsten tip has color to it, you need more post flow. Preventing the tungsten from being exposed to atmosphere too quickly helps with cleaner restarts and to keep contamination out of the weld puddle. A Google search of " 1 second per 10 amps post flow" will provide you with plenty of articles on the subject. At 200 amps or more I stay at 20 seconds... The subject at hand is aluminum, stainless is entirely different as the tungsten doesn't get nearly as hot on DC.
I’m so frustrated, I just received a Lightining MTS 225 with Nova tig torch and pedal, I am trying to run a bead on Aluminum but no success yet. I am using the accessories received with the torch so no gas lens, no7 cup, 3/32” tungsten (1.5 % lanthanum) 15-20 chf (100% argon I hope) . I can’t break the oxidation no matter what balance I am using, i am melting the base material and still no shiny cleaning like I’ve seen in all your videos, the filler rod (4043) is just getting black no matter if I am keeping it inside the gas shield or not... I am running out of ideas, tried on 1/8” and 3/16” aluminum tried to stainless wire brush it and acetone wipe after, no success. the gas line has no leaks and the torch and work clamp are properly connected. do you think could be the fact I am in Europe and I have 230V and 50hz? It shouldn’t right? I am using 0.2 sec pre flow, 5 sec post flow, 100-120 A, square wave, 120hz, 32-35% Balance.
I am thinking that my flow meter is not measuring right or my gas is no good, I am new at TIG and probably I am doing something wrong or the gas is not that pure, I just bought a 10l gas bottle filled (probably 2.5 gallons) and this one I can’t test, it worked with carbon steel, I just gave up today after all week trying every day with different approaches, now I have nothing else to try out... either I just suck at this or the gas I am using is not pure maybe you guys have a better idea, I’ll really appreciated ...
Hit me up @mccollum.weldfab on Instagram or Jesse McCollum on Facebook (or everlast group page) so I can help you more easily, more than happy to lend some help, but RUclips isn't the easiest for it
100-120 amps is generally too low to start the puddle and break through the aluminum oxide for 1/8" and 3/16" within a few seconds. Use the pedal or other amptrol device, but set the panel amps to around 160 amps (or more) and stomp it for the start, till you see the glint of an aluminum puddle, then hold a very tight arc and decrease the amps as you proceed to constrain the puddle from wetting out too much as you dab filler. You may also be holding too long of an arc to start the puddle. Please let us all know how it goes. That MTS 225 is an enviable machine. Maybe a good, new Everlast video topic might be just "Quick TIG Welding Puddle Starting On Aluminum". I mean, generally, just developing/establishing good and fast tacks on aluminum will lead to good bead/puddle starting.
Thank you very much for your reply, I spent a few hours today and made 5 cm square Al coupons, 3 mm thick and tried to do beads and corner joints. First I tested with some more gas, the ball of the flow meter was above 20 chf, I used no 6 cup with 3/32 tungsten, 130 A, 120 Hz, 35% cleaning action. I succeeded to run shiny beads even on very dirty areas of the coupon but when I tried to add filler... the bead become black again, it was a bead but very nasty as a chewing gum that you dropped on fine black sand...adding some more flow, definitely helped but either I have a leak somewhere either my gas is bad, the filler was 4043 3/33 cleaned with paper towels and acetone. I just ordered another flow meter ( the one delivered with the welder is not a fit for our bottles, I believe here in Europe is a different standard, I had to replace the pipe with bottle connection, I suspect that one is leaking)
Oh by the way, I was not able to handle 160 amps, the corned was just blown away at first tack ... I was using the foot pedal but by the tine was depressing it to reduce amps the corner was already gone
OK, I'd check all of your torch connecters, collets, insulators, etc. There's also a low-cost flowmeter tester that you hold up to the end of your TIG torch to check against the regulator that could be helpful.
Tungsten type and size ? Cup # ? Gas and CFM ?
1/8 2% lanth, #8 gas lens, 20cfh
@@jessemccollum Straight Argon ?
@@milesmoore5422 20cfh with straight argon, typically I run praxair's stargon AL and I'll a couple extra cfh with it.
Thx for vidéo !
I have a questions :
What type of Tungsten do you recommend for welding aluminum with Tig (I have an everlast powerpro-164si)
What setting do you recommend for welding aluminum 3 to 5 mm thick with my workstation?
Is’t possible to solder iron and stainless steel with the Tig with my workstation? If yes, which Tungsten and settings do you recommend ?
Thank you very much for your help
I use 2% lanthanated pretty much exclusively. I dont believe the 164 is an AC capable machine, so to weld aluminum you would need helium as a shielding gas, and it would only be possible on really thick material
Green tungsten?
I was using 1/8" 2% lanthanated in this video
Greens are not recommended for use on Inverter based machines.
Apa lgi
You lost me at flat brim hat....
Awesome!