this channel deserves more subscribers I know lindybeige, Skallagrim, The metatron, and Iamshad but I think this channel needs more subs Ur vids are awesome :D
0hn0haha Just cover the broken leather with food wrap and then tape it over with electricians duct tape or bicycle handle tape. Thats what i do. You get the added benefit of being able to choose a wide range of color that arent available from the sword maker.
This Albion Liechtenauer sword should be allowed in Longpoint and other HEMA sword tournaments! The Feder is only a cookie-cutter in the modern swordfights and not used only during the historical timeline for training for war. c. 1330 to 1570. The Liechtenauer sword and the Kriegsmessers were allowed in fighting guilds back then, otherwise, they would never have been created by Men of Arms---so these three swords are suitable for practice during contemporary techniques illustrated in the manuals of Mair, Talhoffer, Ringeck, and Fiore.
I'd say the Lichtenauer is ideal for drilling. For sparring, it's not quite as safe as a feder, so it doesn't allow you to go quite as full out, as with a feder (hence why it isn't quite as good, in tournaments) ...but a feder isn't as good, for drills.
This is good to practice resistance to strikes. It can strike hard targets that doesn't cut through like Pillars. The other sword can cut tatami for edge alignment and with both you get a good understanding of real sword play
I've handled both this sword and the Meyer feder. They're really well built and id consider using the Meyer if only it was a bit longer. The handle is fine in bare hands but once you put you gloves on its just too small. The blade length is also much shorter than your average HEMA feder so going up against guys with 100 - 104 cm blade really pus you at a disadvantage. But they are really nice, id like to buy a sharp Albion one day. I also recently recieved a Chlebowski feder which is really nice. Its basically almost a blunt longsword but with much thicker edges.
I've handled the same and it is indeed a beautiful sword. However one more thing I might add for a mild negative would be the cost. Albion makes amazing swords, and they are worth what they cost, but for the same price you can often get a different smith to make you a custom sword to whatever exact specifications you want for about the same price as an average albion. I will give albion credit though, they really did drop their prices to a far more competitive level for the maestro line.
I got to use a Meyer years back, about 2007. It was actually kind of rubbish; the group we trained with had been using it alongside the then-typical Hanwei feders, and it was the Meyer that started to break up first. Specifically, the wrapping didn't last as long as the Hanwei ones, and the crossguard came loose within the first few practice sessions. Things may have improved since, however.
+Michael Eversberg II Albion was about 2 years old back then, I'd be surprised if they haven't learned a few things since then. I can't speak for the quality of their work back in 2007, I can only speak for it in 2013, when I bought this one.
Medieval Review I do know by then Albion was already considered Primo. Surely they're older than that? I definitely spent time browsing their site in 2005, when they already had plenty of items up. I could be misremembering, though.
+Michael Eversberg II That's odd. With our Leichtenauers we've had the opposite problem, with the Hanwei steel being badly damaged in sparring and the Albion untouched. I ended up giving away the Hanwei as it was beginning to get dangerously jagged. Maybe they've upgraded the steel since yours. Both the L's and the I.33's have held up extremely well.
yeah, they did have some flaws back then. On the lichtenauer i bought 2006 the pommel got loose after some time so had to give it to another blacksmith to get fixed, also i had to replace the cord wrapping with leather, because it just fell off after some hits damaged the cord.
Though this is made for sparring and for that reason not meant to be all that aesthetically pleasing, I still think this is a beautiful sword. I like the way your videos are organized, for example the two different aspects of a weapon (aesthetics and functionality) you review! Greetings from Germany :) (and if necessary: Sorry for my English. ^^)
I feel like its not really fair to lower the final score because you can't use it in HEMA tournaments. It's clearly not a sparring sword. For partner drills you need a blunt sword and you don't really want something as flexible as a Federschwert because that's further away from handling like a sharp sword, than a blunt like the Liechtenauer would be
Tastes are so different... to me the Albion Liechtenauer is the most beautiful among the more easily obtainable Longswords out there. And especially because it is so simple.
You mentioned those drawbacks but didn't mention how much the sword costs. For a sword that doesn't cost too much but is wonderful to have and use, being limited to sparring with friends who have a similar sword wouldn't be too bad. Of course, if the cost weren't high, then everyone would likely have one. If I had one of the similar swords that are real, I'd love to have this one and have a friend who had this one so that we could practice. I love the looks of this sword except for the color of the cord wrapping. If the wrapping were black or a dark green, that sword would be gorgeous in my eyes.
A balanced and honest review, as always sir. Are there any rubber, foam, wood or plastic stops you could put on the end of the blade? If so, would they grossly affect the handling even if lightweight?
Hanwei tinker longsword have blade made from 5160 and hardened to around 52 HRC, Albion lichtenaurer have blade made from 6150 and blade hardness of albion's swords is around 54 hrc. According to this information, it seems that these blades should be very similar because 5160 and 6150 are both very great steels and 52 to 54 HRC is not big difference. But Like you said :albion pretty much destroy hanwei's blade... so i dont now....its very interesting that albion's blade dont have nicks et etc
Why did they started verry late with using siderings? I mostly use Zweihänder and Bidenhänder, but once is used a standart Longsword in a duel (no protection, and infront of 50 people at a marked) and it was verry annoying that it didnt had proper hand protection. I won, but i had a bad feel about my nuckles/fingers.
+That Central Asian My tips: 1) Start saving now, real swords don't come cheap. Even katanas, which have a flooded market of functional sword at ever lower prices can still cost a good bit, if they are going to be worth buying. 2) Decide what kind of collector you want to be; some people collect a lot of low end swords, some people only collect a few high end. I, for example, mix the two I like variety and I like the really good stuff. 3) Don't waste money; research the best swords. 4) Watch my video series on collecting 101: ruclips.net/video/AqQp6YEoaD8/видео.html 5)??? 6) Profit? - Seriously one thing to always note when being a collector of anything; don't go broke, only purchase things like this out of your abundance, not out of funds that go towards necessities. This is an important note, because collection can also become addiction of sorts. It's also worth noting that being a practitioner helps you to know what is a good sword and isn't. Another note: You'll see this bear out in my reviews: there are 2 reasons to own a sword, aesthetics/history, or functionality. You can use those aspects to decide what sword is right for you.
That Central Asian 1. Learn how to use one properly, take classes, you will appreciate your collection so much more in regards to how each one handles and feels in the hand. 2. Don't buy stainless steel wall hangers. They are not swords, they are giant, ornate bread knives. 3. Understand that these are not frivolous things like vases or plates that are hung on a wall, they are weapons that were once used to take life away and that should always always be remembered, so don't go swinging it at parties to impress people. 4. Enjoy your passion.
curious. i love katana swords. i know a decent amount about blades. i trained in japanese warrior arts for over a decade. but i see medival swords and i think. even if they are full tang. the tang has to be so so so tiny due to the tiny handle and taper. is the tang super tiny? and how does it not break at the handguard like a cheap hollow handle survival knife? i could answer many questions on the katana if someone asked me as that is what i studied etc. i know you know more about these types than me. just curious.
+MOUNTAINOUS Tangs on proper swords are large enough to bear the stresses and strains put on them. The tang usually tapers towards the pommel but a lot of the variation you see in the handles is from the shape of the wooden core. Additionally the reason it doesn't snap like a cheap survival knife is that the steel used is not heat treated to be brittle and hard (comparatively common trait in knives), but rather it is tempered to have strength and flexibility. See this video as an example of how a European medieval sword is put together: ruclips.net/video/ru-0GwYGUzY/видео.html
+Medieval Review reminds me of how kabar knive if. you can see the blade is wide but you can see where the tang goes it is so much more narrow than the width of blade by the handguard. seems the katana is just as wide as the blade in the tsuka. i have assmebled and taken apart my several katana many times. the tang seems stronger in a katana. i know a katana you can push the tip in a stump and flex it 45 degrees and it flex back to perfect true if good carbon steel and folded. i have 160 videos doing japanese swordsmanship and some in armor. some doing tamishgirir. some in full armor on horseback in the mountains of oregon. search mountainous kenjutsu kata in the search to see a short kenjutsu video of me. peace.
+HipposHateWater i have done sword many years japanese kenjutsu. bujutsu. ninpo taijutsu. bojutsu. bajutsu and many others. i have videos of me on horseback in the mountains in full samurai armor etc. fighting. etc. archery in armor etc etc. search....mountainous kenjutsu kata to see my home dojo in my house and some sword work of mine. peace.
I have had my eye on this sword for awhile. the major issue of it not being useful in tournaments doesn't really bother me because there aren't any clubs in my area. My one concern is the fact that I'm so short, and I want a sword that is customized to my height. Does albion do custom blades?
A small tip: the 'ch' in 'Liechtenauer' or 'Fechtbuch' doesn't pronounce like the letter c in 'cat', 'car' etc. This is helpful: ruclips.net/video/FnFQdLOjiZ4/видео.html :)
I have a question about if I were to buy an Albion sword of Kult of Athena and get the sharpening service would it be as sharp as if i were to get it done by Albion or is it the same company that does it ? my question is could i get an albion sword as sharp as i could get it to be or would Kult of Athena not do a good job ?
All Albion swords come exactly as sharp as they're supposed to be, with the exception of the Maestro and Squire Lines. If you get a Next Gen or Museum Line weapon, it will perform exactly as its historical ancestors would have. That doesn't mean that they're all equally sharp, since a kriegsmesser and, say, an Oakeshott type XVII were never designed for nor expected to do the same job, but they're all going to be as sharp as they're *supposed* to be. If you were speaking instead about getting a Maestro Line sword and having that sharpened, I would encourage you not to do that. I mean, it's your money, but blade geometry is a complicated thing, and a lot of elements depend on other elements. Sharpening a Meyer or Liechtenauer won't give you a good sword, but will make a good practice sword useless and dangerous. I've owned six Albion swords through the years, from all but the Squire Line. I love the company and swear by their work (A&A is my other favorite, and they can also work to your specifications), but there are some swords that are designed from the ground up to have an accurate edge, and others that are not. I had a few MRL swords way back in the day, and though I paid to have them "sharpened," I was always disappointed in the result. I never understood why until I had the chance to look at originals up close. Sharpening a sword with poor geometry just doesn't get you as far as you'd like. From what I understand, you *can* have a Squire Line sword sharpened, because the geometry is already correct except for the edge. Albion will do this for you. You should give them a call directly. Mike's a good guy. :-)
I'm looking into buying this sword for sparring. Our group does not need rolled edges but sword tips are required to be around 1 inch thick. How thick is the tip on your sword if I may trouble you? I can't seam to find this info anywhere.
I find the lack of aesthetics to be part of the reason I like the look of it. I have two swords and the first one I got was a basic sparring arming sword and it was my favorite based on the simple design.
+No Steel I have a similar feeling about it as well. But as you'll see in next week's review, lacking some aesthetic details and making things too simple doesn't necessarily benefit a sword. The small details on this one certainly add some aesthetic value. This is one of the reason I like Albion, see my Ringeck review for similar thoughts.
good vibes Yes, I believe that even during that demonstration, the helmet was seriously dented, & the guy was either seriously stunned or KO’d...fun stuff!
I know that longswords and hand and a half swords are very similar, but how well does practicing with a longsword translate to using a hand and a half?
The Stoned Videogame Nerd it's actually pretty common to stick grip tape along the edges of synthetic wasters for this reason. Cheaper and more realistic than magnets which stop you pulling away, but not sliding.
The Stoned Videogame Nerd I said grip tape. The stuff they put on skateboards. It isn't sticky. This stuff socalskateshop.com/images/products/thumb_24372_MobGrip10InchTN.jpg
This sword has been good to me aswell as the albion feder.strong as fuck indeed.i used this against my friends hanwei longsword and it does destroy weaker blades over time yet my friends blade did not snap.his was a good blade for the price.now its a saw blade pretty much.
I have no clue about swords. I'm just here wondering why English speakers have such a hard time with the ch-sound (ç) like in Liechtenauer or fechten. Just loudly whisper 'yes' or 'human' and you got it right there.
Trust me you dont want to go to tournament with one of these. I have a custom Regenyei blunt that has a similar balance, weight and appearance to Albion Ringeck albeit with longer handle and rolled tip, and i can tell you it's just too slow and too short to be competitive against the average feders on the market. The edges on these are also too thin for safe sparring. Regenyei blunts have thicker edges than these and yet i still often get complaints that I'm hitting too heavily when I'm not even trying. Durability wise they chip up pretty badly after heavy fights against feders. Blunt longswords are best for form training and techniques drills.
To add some technical details Feders usually weigh the same as these at around 1500g but are about 6-10cm longer and they have lower PoB too. It won't be a fair match.
I disagree with your stringent sentiment of the Liechtenauer being persona non grata with HEMA and the tournament scene: this is a logical fallacy as is the attitude that it "destroys" other swords like Tinkers. I have used my own Liechtenauer extensively in both slow-speed exchanges with partners and in at-speed freeplay sparring and in both cases, I was pitted against Tinker longswords, and while in certain crossings, the difference in Rockwell hardness is apparent, the Liechtenauer did not cause grievous damage to the Tinkers anymore than Tinkers already experience because of their lower Rockwell. I also strongly disagree with Albion's needing to alter its Maestro Line's image of safety due to "edge thickness"; while a wider edge does allow for more surface area to displace energy from a blow, it does not change the fact that relatively the same amount of energy is being hewn onto about 6" of blade as it hits the target. The error is in the misguided belief that a blunt trainer is unequivocally safe at full-speed sparring: even with the best of protective equipment and the best steel trainer, some measure of control must be demonstrated by both fighters, and the belief that speed equates to more realistic fighting is absolute bollocks. Absolute bent toward speed turns fighting into tag; this is an artifact of emphasizing fights for the mark, instead of for the art. If you play for the art, the mark doesn't matter. The mark is shiny and all, but we're not killing each other over trivial matters of honour anymore, so I don't understand why we need to "spar" with each other like nothing has changed. Blessed are we to live in an age where we may strike hard and fast upon our enemies, let them live, and laugh about it afterward, and drink beer with them. At any rate, because in cuts, thrusts, winds, and everything else, I always exhibit some degree of control [which is constantly in flux depending on the situation], I can dictate how much [or how little] force I am delivering to my partner. Because in training and in fighting my opponents always wear different degrees of protection [and because I frequently train often with little to no protection], I always demonstrate and fight in such a way where I can modulate my control relative to the situation as any adherent should be able to do. Again, seeing as we are not ending these exchanges in one of us killing the other... it is better to err on the side of caution, lose the mark, win the mark, for we can always do it again if we are wrong. I would rather screw up an exchange because I did not deliver a full-force thrust to my partner's throat than do the exchange perfect and have something bad happen consequently. Neither having an Albion or a Dobringer or any other trainer for that matter will stop that fact. Tournament fighting is also far different than salle fighting, has different requirements and expectations and at its best is the penultimate definition of being pitted against "uncooperative opponents". I would not go so far as to suggest that Tournament fighting is the Zeitgeist of what HEMA is: that is more to be found in exploring techniques from the manuscripts, in a cocktail of dialogue, study, exchanges, and sparring, wherein no single one is above the other.
Hey, man. Can you elaborate a little more on the comment, "I was pitted against Tinker longswords, and while in certain crossings, the difference in Rockwell hardness is apparent, the Liechtenauer did not cause grievous damage to the Tinkers anymore than Tinkers already experience because of their lower Rockwell?" I'm thinking of getting a tinker longsword. I know they're a lower quality sword, but it's more for ren fairs and learning longsword fencing.
The tinker is a great starter sword for the price, especially the blunt version for light sparring and drills. But it won't hold up against better swords when used in earnest.
+xxBOUNTYxxHUNTER good but not superior and as reliable. It does cost a bit to make them too. So i can see the price being as high as it is. Lowest price for a functional sword that is historically accurate is probably around 600. At that price it can still fail on you but Albion almost guarantees they wont i I think you have lifetime warranty or something of the sort. Worth in my opinion.
Their sharps are the best as far as production swords go, but for the same price you can get a hand made, one of a kind piece with greater attention to detail from a custom smith like Marco Danelli, or a less highly finished sword that will perform equally well from someone like Peter Regenyei or Gus Trim for much cheaper. In the case of their blunt swords however, they don't rate particularly highly (around the same as darkwood) in main part due to the fact that they still refuse to provide safe tips, so you have to put something on the end of your lovely sword with unsightly duct or electrical tape if you want to bout with it.
My friend has an Albion Messer and he's destroyed one of my trainers after one session. His Leichtenauer has done a similar job on one of my long swords.
Yup fortunately I have two type IV's and once I file out the nicks and secure the cross I'll just reserve them for i33 and to be used only with each other. I've stopped being annoyed now, just had to change my thinking..
490$ for something that isnt even tournament ready. Maestro line is sort of a joke with its pricing. WHy go with albion, if for around that price you can gest custom Daenelli sword? Or better yet for fraction of the price you get the basic version. I don't really get the point of this lline, but at least now I know why they give it 10 years warranty. For a sword that you cannot use safely for proper thrusting, there is no need to worry about it breaking.
Why the dislike for blunts for sparring? If you wear protective equipment youll be fine more or less. If you arent okay with a little injury, maybe people should pick up knitting and not swordplay?
I can cut small branches with my synthetic purple heart waster, not intentionally, so I'm not sure if that's a good criteria for a practice sword. Although I'm not sure if I would use this as a feder for practice though, the look and weight of the blade worries me for attempting to spar against someone with.
this channel deserves more subscribers
I know lindybeige, Skallagrim, The metatron, and Iamshad but I think this channel needs more subs Ur vids are awesome :D
+Jeffloves beer It will only happen with time.Feel free to share my videos around. The more people who see it, the more subscribers I'll get. =)
Well the only problem being not many people have interests in things like this but i am the many people who like your channel :D
+Jeffloves beer You missed out scholagladiatoria ! ;)
oh yeah
이치고 finally someone that views the same, this sword I wish to study with this sword.
i just ordered one yesterday. it actually makes me sort of proud knowing it chews everything else up.
I have noticed that leather grips can burn through with a lot of sparring. So twine could be better, at least easier to replace.
0hn0haha Just cover the broken leather with food wrap and then tape it over with electricians duct tape or bicycle handle tape. Thats what i do. You get the added benefit of being able to choose a wide range of color that arent available from the sword maker.
yup. I have to retape my feder leather grip once a month
I mean tennis racket tape??? Works for my application on other things
Purpleheart armoury grip tape
tbh the liechtenauer looks amazing ..its simple but the little details they added made it an awsome looking sword !
i really really dig the wrapping. it fits blade and guard so beautifully. really beautiful sword
This Albion Liechtenauer sword should be allowed in Longpoint and other HEMA sword tournaments! The Feder is only a cookie-cutter in the modern swordfights and not used only during the historical timeline for training for war. c. 1330 to 1570. The Liechtenauer sword and the Kriegsmessers were allowed in fighting guilds back then, otherwise, they would never have been created by Men of Arms---so these three swords are suitable for practice during contemporary techniques illustrated in the manuals of Mair, Talhoffer, Ringeck, and Fiore.
What are your sources regarding the claim that the kriegsmesser and liechtenhauer sword were allowed in the fighting guilds?
I'd say the Lichtenauer is ideal for drilling.
For sparring, it's not quite as safe as a feder, so it doesn't allow you to go quite as full out, as with a feder (hence why it isn't quite as good, in tournaments)
...but a feder isn't as good, for drills.
This is good to practice resistance to strikes. It can strike hard targets that doesn't cut through like Pillars. The other sword can cut tatami for edge alignment and with both you get a good understanding of real sword play
I've handled both this sword and the Meyer feder. They're really well built and id consider using the Meyer if only it was a bit longer. The handle is fine in bare hands but once you put you gloves on its just too small. The blade length is also much shorter than your average HEMA feder so going up against guys with 100 - 104 cm blade really pus you at a disadvantage. But they are really nice, id like to buy a sharp Albion one day. I also recently recieved a Chlebowski feder which is really nice. Its basically almost a blunt longsword but with much thicker edges.
I've handled the same and it is indeed a beautiful sword. However one more thing I might add for a mild negative would be the cost. Albion makes amazing swords, and they are worth what they cost, but for the same price you can often get a different smith to make you a custom sword to whatever exact specifications you want for about the same price as an average albion.
I will give albion credit though, they really did drop their prices to a far more competitive level for the maestro line.
I got to use a Meyer years back, about 2007. It was actually kind of rubbish; the group we trained with had been using it alongside the then-typical Hanwei feders, and it was the Meyer that started to break up first. Specifically, the wrapping didn't last as long as the Hanwei ones, and the crossguard came loose within the first few practice sessions. Things may have improved since, however.
+Michael Eversberg II Albion was about 2 years old back then, I'd be surprised if they haven't learned a few things since then. I can't speak for the quality of their work back in 2007, I can only speak for it in 2013, when I bought this one.
Medieval Review
I do know by then Albion was already considered Primo. Surely they're older than that? I definitely spent time browsing their site in 2005, when they already had plenty of items up. I could be misremembering, though.
+Michael Eversberg II That's odd. With our Leichtenauers we've had the opposite problem, with the Hanwei steel being badly damaged in sparring and the Albion untouched. I ended up giving away the Hanwei as it was beginning to get dangerously jagged. Maybe they've upgraded the steel since yours. Both the L's and the I.33's have held up extremely well.
*****
It's possible. This was many years ago. It was also just one physical example.
yeah, they did have some flaws back then. On the lichtenauer i bought 2006 the pommel got loose after some time so had to give it to another blacksmith to get fixed, also i had to replace the cord wrapping with leather, because it just fell off after some hits damaged the cord.
Though this is made for sparring and for that reason not meant to be all that aesthetically pleasing, I still think this is a beautiful sword. I like the way your videos are organized, for example the two different aspects of a weapon (aesthetics and functionality) you review! Greetings from Germany :) (and if necessary: Sorry for my English. ^^)
+Tymdek I agree it's still a very pretty sword. Also, your English is good. =) Cheers!
YOU!!!
You stole my signature, I usually sign all my comments with "Greetings from Germany", you ruthless thief.
;)
Greetings from another German.
+Chris Genzel Nun ja ,wer konnte das wissen? Darf ich trotzdem weiter "Greetings from Germany" schreiben? ;)
Tymdek
Natürlich :D
OK :D
I feel like its not really fair to lower the final score because you can't use it in HEMA tournaments. It's clearly not a sparring sword. For partner drills you need a blunt sword and you don't really want something as flexible as a Federschwert because that's further away from handling like a sharp sword, than a blunt like the Liechtenauer would be
I Guess it's designed for duel Fencing
Tastes are so different... to me the Albion Liechtenauer is the most beautiful among the more easily obtainable Longswords out there. And especially because it is so simple.
Great vid on a great Sword...
Whoah! Next gen Albion? Fiore, Talhoffer?
First I've heard of it m8, Good One...
You mentioned those drawbacks but didn't mention how much the sword costs. For a sword that doesn't cost too much but is wonderful to have and use, being limited to sparring with friends who have a similar sword wouldn't be too bad. Of course, if the cost weren't high, then everyone would likely have one. If I had one of the similar swords that are real, I'd love to have this one and have a friend who had this one so that we could practice.
I love the looks of this sword except for the color of the cord wrapping. If the wrapping were black or a dark green, that sword would be gorgeous in my eyes.
A balanced and honest review, as always sir. Are there any rubber, foam, wood or plastic stops you could put on the end of the blade? If so, would they grossly affect the handling even if lightweight?
I thing the most common approach is a leather thong on the end. it wouldn't add significant weight or mess with the balance.
Have you checked out Texas Angel Swords?
Hanwei tinker longsword have blade made from 5160 and hardened to around 52 HRC, Albion lichtenaurer have blade made from 6150 and blade hardness of albion's swords is around 54 hrc. According to this information, it seems that these blades should be very similar because 5160 and 6150 are both very great steels and 52 to 54 HRC is not big difference. But Like you said :albion pretty much destroy hanwei's blade... so i dont now....its very interesting that albion's blade dont have nicks et etc
Why did they started verry late with using siderings? I mostly use Zweihänder and Bidenhänder, but once is used a standart Longsword in a duel (no protection, and infront of 50 people at a marked) and it was verry annoying that it didnt had proper hand protection. I won, but i had a bad feel about my nuckles/fingers.
+Johannes.St \Liandri/ I honestly don't know the answer to that. I could guess, but they would only be guesses.
I know this is random but can you give me any tips for starting a sword collection? I'm 16 and i want to start at 18
I love your Video's btw :)
+That Central Asian My tips:
1) Start saving now, real swords don't come cheap. Even katanas, which have a flooded market of functional sword at ever lower prices can still cost a good bit, if they are going to be worth buying.
2) Decide what kind of collector you want to be; some people collect a lot of low end swords, some people only collect a few high end. I, for example, mix the two I like variety and I like the really good stuff.
3) Don't waste money; research the best swords.
4) Watch my video series on collecting 101: ruclips.net/video/AqQp6YEoaD8/видео.html
5)???
6) Profit? - Seriously one thing to always note when being a collector of anything; don't go broke, only purchase things like this out of your abundance, not out of funds that go towards necessities. This is an important note, because collection can also become addiction of sorts.
It's also worth noting that being a practitioner helps you to know what is a good sword and isn't. Another note: You'll see this bear out in my reviews: there are 2 reasons to own a sword, aesthetics/history, or functionality. You can use those aspects to decide what sword is right for you.
+Medieval Review thanks man i cant wait to begin :)
That Central Asian
1. Learn how to use one properly, take classes, you will appreciate your collection so much more in regards to how each one handles and feels in the hand.
2. Don't buy stainless steel wall hangers. They are not swords, they are giant, ornate bread knives.
3. Understand that these are not frivolous things like vases or plates that are hung on a wall, they are weapons that were once used to take life away and that should always always be remembered, so don't go swinging it at parties to impress people.
4. Enjoy your passion.
curious. i love katana swords. i know a decent amount about blades. i trained in japanese warrior arts for over a decade. but i see medival swords and i think. even if they are full tang. the tang has to be so so so tiny due to the tiny handle and taper. is the tang super tiny? and how does it not break at the handguard like a cheap hollow handle survival knife? i could answer many questions on the katana if someone asked me as that is what i studied etc. i know you know more about these types than me. just curious.
+MOUNTAINOUS Tangs on proper swords are large enough to bear the stresses and strains put on them. The tang usually tapers towards the pommel but a lot of the variation you see in the handles is from the shape of the wooden core. Additionally the reason it doesn't snap like a cheap survival knife is that the steel used is not heat treated to be brittle and hard (comparatively common trait in knives), but rather it is tempered to have strength and flexibility. See this video as an example of how a European medieval sword is put together: ruclips.net/video/ru-0GwYGUzY/видео.html
+Medieval Review reminds me of how kabar knive if. you can see the blade is wide but you can see where the tang goes it is so much more narrow than the width of blade by the handguard. seems the katana is just as wide as the blade in the tsuka. i have assmebled and taken apart my several katana many times. the tang seems stronger in a katana. i know a katana you can push the tip in a stump and flex it 45 degrees and it flex back to perfect true if good carbon steel and folded. i have 160 videos doing japanese swordsmanship and some in armor. some doing tamishgirir. some in full armor on horseback in the mountains of oregon. search mountainous kenjutsu kata in the search to see a short kenjutsu video of me. peace.
+HipposHateWater i have done sword many years japanese kenjutsu. bujutsu. ninpo taijutsu. bojutsu. bajutsu and many others. i have videos of me on horseback in the mountains in full samurai armor etc. fighting. etc. archery in armor etc etc. search....mountainous kenjutsu kata to see my home dojo in my house and some sword work of mine. peace.
You sound like the ultimate neck beard
I have had my eye on this sword for awhile. the major issue of it not being useful in tournaments doesn't really bother me because there aren't any clubs in my area. My one concern is the fact that I'm so short, and I want a sword that is customized to my height. Does albion do custom blades?
A small tip: the 'ch' in 'Liechtenauer' or 'Fechtbuch' doesn't pronounce like the letter c in 'cat', 'car' etc. This is helpful: ruclips.net/video/FnFQdLOjiZ4/видео.html :)
Sword reviewer etiquette: always wear a henley
Seems odd they'd put a fuller on it as they're used to reduce weight and also increase stiffness, when you'd want a sparring sword to flex
I have a question about if I were to buy an Albion sword of Kult of Athena and get the sharpening service would it be as sharp as if i were to get it done by Albion or is it the same company that does it ? my question is could i get an albion sword as sharp as i could get it to be or would Kult of Athena not do a good job ?
i think it would be Albion's work.
so even if i order it off the Kult of Athena website the sharpening is done by Albion ?
All Albion swords come exactly as sharp as they're supposed to be, with the exception of the Maestro and Squire Lines. If you get a Next Gen or Museum Line weapon, it will perform exactly as its historical ancestors would have. That doesn't mean that they're all equally sharp, since a kriegsmesser and, say, an Oakeshott type XVII were never designed for nor expected to do the same job, but they're all going to be as sharp as they're *supposed* to be.
If you were speaking instead about getting a Maestro Line sword and having that sharpened, I would encourage you not to do that. I mean, it's your money, but blade geometry is a complicated thing, and a lot of elements depend on other elements. Sharpening a Meyer or Liechtenauer won't give you a good sword, but will make a good practice sword useless and dangerous.
I've owned six Albion swords through the years, from all but the Squire Line. I love the company and swear by their work (A&A is my other favorite, and they can also work to your specifications), but there are some swords that are designed from the ground up to have an accurate edge, and others that are not. I had a few MRL swords way back in the day, and though I paid to have them "sharpened," I was always disappointed in the result. I never understood why until I had the chance to look at originals up close. Sharpening a sword with poor geometry just doesn't get you as far as you'd like.
From what I understand, you *can* have a Squire Line sword sharpened, because the geometry is already correct except for the edge. Albion will do this for you. You should give them a call directly. Mike's a good guy. :-)
thank you you've been a great help \m/
I'm looking into buying this sword for sparring. Our group does not need rolled edges but sword tips are required to be around 1 inch thick. How thick is the tip on your sword if I may trouble you? I can't seam to find this info anywhere.
I own one. I will say this. I can damn near cut through a 2” wooden pole with the unsharpened blade. Albion makes amazing swords.
wasn't the feder the only sword suitable for HEMA full contact sparring?
In most of not all tournaments now yes. But these kinds of swords can be used in sparring.
I'll have to sell my body to get it LMAO
I find the lack of aesthetics to be part of the reason I like the look of it. I have two swords and the first one I got was a basic sparring arming sword and it was my favorite based on the simple design.
+No Steel I have a similar feeling about it as well. But as you'll see in next week's review, lacking some aesthetic details and making things too simple doesn't necessarily benefit a sword. The small details on this one certainly add some aesthetic value.
This is one of the reason I like Albion, see my Ringeck review for similar thoughts.
whats better albion or miller bros for a gladius
why is that guy holding the blade at the start of the video during that demonstration
He is demonstrating the effectiveness of Mordhau: en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mordhau
+Medieval Review thanks for the reply. I'm just getting into hema and stuff so I was curious.
good vibes Yes, I believe that even during that demonstration, the helmet was seriously dented, & the guy was either seriously stunned or KO’d...fun stuff!
I know that longswords and hand and a half swords are very similar, but how well does practicing with a longsword translate to using a hand and a half?
oomcheck pretty much the same usage. the variations in design must be account for for.
This thing should have a warning like: watch out this tool here cuts your swords in half
John clemons doesn't understand that you can still get a concussion while wearing full armor. The guy is just reckless
What sword for longsword hema would you suggest? I would rather not pay more than 300 but can go to 500.
I'd recommend getting a good feder.
Talk to Peter Regenyei about buying a feder with a rolled tip.
The Stoned Videogame Nerd it's actually pretty common to stick grip tape along the edges of synthetic wasters for this reason. Cheaper and more realistic than magnets which stop you pulling away, but not sliding.
The Stoned Videogame Nerd I said grip tape. The stuff they put on skateboards. It isn't sticky. This stuff socalskateshop.com/images/products/thumb_24372_MobGrip10InchTN.jpg
What type of steel stock is it made of?
what is the handle made out of?
+claudespeedbarney1 The grip is a solid wood core wrapped in cord.
Could you sharpen the Liechtenauer into a proper battle sword, or is it too flexible?
the blade geometry wouldn't support
a proper nice edge, the blunting is pretty thick, sharpening it would be against its very design.
Medieval Review
But there are similar models that could take a proper edge & point?
Yes. If you want an example of this take a look at my Albion Ringeck Review.
I would say no, because edge geometry doesn't just happen at the edge.
Beautiful training sword
This sword has been good to me aswell as the albion feder.strong as fuck indeed.i used this against my friends hanwei longsword and it does destroy weaker blades over time yet my friends blade did not snap.his was a good blade for the price.now its a saw blade pretty much.
I'm going to get this so I can learn how to right like a witcher
The world was not ready for it
I have no clue about swords. I'm just here wondering why English speakers have such a hard time with the ch-sound (ç) like in Liechtenauer or fechten. Just loudly whisper 'yes' or 'human' and you got it right there.
Trust me you dont want to go to tournament with one of these. I have a custom Regenyei blunt that has a similar balance, weight and appearance to Albion Ringeck albeit with longer handle and rolled tip, and i can tell you it's just too slow and too short to be competitive against the average feders on the market. The edges on these are also too thin for safe sparring. Regenyei blunts have thicker edges than these and yet i still often get complaints that I'm hitting too heavily when I'm not even trying. Durability wise they chip up pretty badly after heavy fights against feders. Blunt longswords are best for form training and techniques drills.
To add some technical details Feders usually weigh the same as these at around 1500g but are about 6-10cm longer and they have lower PoB too. It won't be a fair match.
I disagree with your stringent sentiment of the Liechtenauer being persona non grata with HEMA and the tournament scene: this is a logical fallacy as is the attitude that it "destroys" other swords like Tinkers.
I have used my own Liechtenauer extensively in both slow-speed exchanges with partners and in at-speed freeplay sparring and in both cases, I was pitted against Tinker longswords, and while in certain crossings, the difference in Rockwell hardness is apparent, the Liechtenauer did not cause grievous damage to the Tinkers anymore than Tinkers already experience because of their lower Rockwell.
I also strongly disagree with Albion's needing to alter its Maestro Line's image of safety due to "edge thickness"; while a wider edge does allow for more surface area to displace energy from a blow, it does not change the fact that relatively the same amount of energy is being hewn onto about 6" of blade as it hits the target.
The error is in the misguided belief that a blunt trainer is unequivocally safe at full-speed sparring: even with the best of protective equipment and the best steel trainer, some measure of control must be demonstrated by both fighters, and the belief that speed equates to more realistic fighting is absolute bollocks. Absolute bent toward speed turns fighting into tag; this is an artifact of emphasizing fights for the mark, instead of for the art. If you play for the art, the mark doesn't matter. The mark is shiny and all, but we're not killing each other over trivial matters of honour anymore, so I don't understand why we need to "spar" with each other like nothing has changed. Blessed are we to live in an age where we may strike hard and fast upon our enemies, let them live, and laugh about it afterward, and drink beer with them.
At any rate, because in cuts, thrusts, winds, and everything else, I always exhibit some degree of control [which is constantly in flux depending on the situation], I can dictate how much [or how little] force I am delivering to my partner. Because in training and in fighting my opponents always wear different degrees of protection [and because I frequently train often with little to no protection], I always demonstrate and fight in such a way where I can modulate my control relative to the situation as any adherent should be able to do. Again, seeing as we are not ending these exchanges in one of us killing the other... it is better to err on the side of caution, lose the mark, win the mark, for we can always do it again if we are wrong. I would rather screw up an exchange because I did not deliver a full-force thrust to my partner's throat than do the exchange perfect and have something bad happen consequently.
Neither having an Albion or a Dobringer or any other trainer for that matter will stop that fact. Tournament fighting is also far different than salle fighting, has different requirements and expectations and at its best is the penultimate definition of being pitted against "uncooperative opponents". I would not go so far as to suggest that Tournament fighting is the Zeitgeist of what HEMA is: that is more to be found in exploring techniques from the manuscripts, in a cocktail of dialogue, study, exchanges, and sparring, wherein no single one is above the other.
Hey, man. Can you elaborate a little more on the comment, "I was pitted against Tinker longswords, and while in certain crossings, the difference in Rockwell hardness is apparent, the Liechtenauer did not cause grievous damage to the Tinkers anymore than Tinkers already experience because of their lower Rockwell?"
I'm thinking of getting a tinker longsword. I know they're a lower quality sword, but it's more for ren fairs and learning longsword fencing.
The tinker is a great starter sword for the price, especially the blunt version for light sparring and drills. But it won't hold up against better swords when used in earnest.
Thanks for the info! I've competed and coached in Olympic fencing for years (all 3 weapons). I'm really excited to get started in longsword fencing.
Did... did John Clements just full force mordhau someone is that video....? I knew he was crazy but damn
@@tiexiaowang7939 Yes, yes he did.
Albion swords Rock, nuff said!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Anions swords are expensive, but not not good? Please explain? Thanks.
Albion..........
+xxBOUNTYxxHUNTER good but not superior and as reliable. It does cost a bit to make them too. So i can see the price being as high as it is. Lowest price for a functional sword that is historically accurate is probably around 600. At that price it can still fail on you but Albion almost guarantees they wont i I think you have lifetime warranty or something of the sort. Worth in my opinion.
Their sharps are the best as far as production swords go, but for the same price you can get a hand made, one of a kind piece with greater attention to detail from a custom smith like Marco Danelli, or a less highly finished sword that will perform equally well from someone like Peter Regenyei or Gus Trim for much cheaper. In the case of their blunt swords however, they don't rate particularly highly (around the same as darkwood) in main part due to the fact that they still refuse to provide safe tips, so you have to put something on the end of your lovely sword with unsightly duct or electrical tape if you want to bout with it.
My friend has an Albion Messer and he's destroyed one of my trainers after one session. His Leichtenauer has done a similar job on one of my long swords.
+Bloodaxetheirritable There is a reason why I won't use mine unless it's against another Albion blade.
Yup fortunately I have two type IV's and once I file out the nicks and secure the cross I'll just reserve them for i33 and to be used only with each other. I've stopped being annoyed now, just had to change my thinking..
Great training sword
Subbed!
Thanks!
490$ for something that isnt even tournament ready. Maestro line is sort of a joke with its pricing. WHy go with albion, if for around that price you can gest custom Daenelli sword? Or better yet for fraction of the price you get the basic version. I don't really get the point of this lline, but at least now I know why they give it 10 years warranty. For a sword that you cannot use safely for proper thrusting, there is no need to worry about it breaking.
Verithiell They're designed for techniques drills and form training
The price is just too high
hey nice shirt
Lol Yeap!
nice
Why the dislike for blunts for sparring? If you wear protective equipment youll be fine more or less. If you arent okay with a little injury, maybe people should pick up knitting and not swordplay?
You look like Zach Galifianakis.
+Chrominance87 Between two swords... =)
I can cut small branches with my Lichtenauer as if it was a sharp blade. I would never use it in practice against another human.
Judicial78 even against a padded and armoured sparring partner?
I can cut small branches with my synthetic purple heart waster, not intentionally, so I'm not sure if that's a good criteria for a practice sword. Although I'm not sure if I would use this as a feder for practice though, the look and weight of the blade worries me for attempting to spar against someone with.
Really, as a man with Irish provenance you pronounce it "Liktenauer" instead of "Liechtenauer"? An Irish man should know how to pronounce "ch".
Clemens Kindermann yeah it should sound like the c in the irish word nic which appears often in personal names in gaelic speaking areas.
Fecked book lol
discredited manufacturer, horrible practice sword , he's reading from their website .. Must be an Albion fanboy...
okay...
3 years late but what lol? Albions a great company
Please learn how to pronounce German correctly, you are driving me crazy! 🙉