I know nothing about engineering but I'm fascinated with your video of the Stuart S50 pump. In the mid to late 70's I worked at the Caerphilly Tar Plant where I was surrounded by Evans steam pumps. These pumps worked 24/7 365 days of the year. Waiting for the next video. Very best wishes Clive
Hi Ade, nice work. Crankshafts can be a bugger. The mill engine that I am still constructing called for a turned crankshaft (different diameters across) and a press fit into the crank web. All done including scoring the shaft to allow the added security of Loctite! I admit that mine does have split main bearings (a different can of worms). Keep up the good work sir.
Gday Ades, the crankshaft is looking great so far, always enjoy the way you explain the theory with measurements and I’m learning along the way, thanks mate, take care, Cheers Matty
Hello Ade, Nice progress on the Stuart S50, the crankshaft look good... also, nice find with the vice, hopefully you will be sharing with us how you bring it back to life... Take care. Paul,,
Nice bit of work Ade, quite a bit of figuring despite having a drawing in hand. Enjoyed it very much. Nice little vise score too, I have a small one in my basement shop and it is ridiculous how often it is the go to tool, so that 4" will be a great addition. Stay safe and cheers!
Hi, Ade. Of course if the chord length had been specified the drawing would be over dimensioned (too many tolerances!) but a reference dimension for the included angle would have been great! I would never have been smart enough to machine two parallel side to the wide dimension first; I get educated every time I watch you!
Dear Adrian I found a neat little item that I have been getting a kick out of using that can be used one-handed with a little practice they are very expensive, and I sent you a few to keep or give out and share as you wish. Once more I failed to put my letter inside the package so what does the message stand as the accompanying letter. Maybe you can talk about the coat of arms flag in your window sometime. All the BEST from my family to YOURS
I just measured the angle of the crank on my S50. The best that I can measure with it assembled is 34 degrees. The web is considerably narrower than yours. Keep in mind that I did not machine my engine and that the angle and dimensions are strictly for clearance. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Steven . My 16 degrees works but if i have balance issues i can go to 17 degrees that will give me the same . I may yet do the maths to work out the angle based on the dimensions . It may help with future builders . Cheers Ade.
@@ade63dug Cheers Ade. I'm late to the party here, but a bit of fiddling with some trig and based on the Stuart numbers I get 18.8 degrees, confirmed by a quick check in CAD. Your numbers check out for 16 degrees so I agree with you - either the numbers are right or the drawing is but not both!
I haven't gotten to this part yet but wanted to do the geometry on it. 30 degrees on the drawing is approximate. it'll be ok but will have vibration when the engine goes above 300rpm
Another good video, thanks. I assume the wedge shape of the crank is to act as a counter balance to the mass of the piston and con rod so the engine runs smoothly. When you finish the conecting rod and piston, if you were to 'hang' then from the crank would the couter weight balance them so the crank doesn't rotate? It would be interesting to see if you could fine tune the tapers of the crank to achieve a perfect balance.
I think the drawing was a bit short on detail there. It gave you the small end width and the large end width I believe? If it had given you a characteristic length, ie the straight line dimension between the large end and small end, you could have calculated the tangent of the taper angle. So if the large end is A, the small end is B and the length between is C and the angle is x:-, tan x = A - B/2C. Take the inverse tangent to get the angle. This is the full included angle so you would need to machine half of this per side. So if x = 32 degrees for example, machine 16 degrees per side. Nice work though. Really enjoy your channel.
As always, a very enjoyable and chip inspiring video. Thanks! If I would be You I would have a serious talk with the people producing the drawings. The drawings are supposed to turn into a steam engine, not a toilet....
Could the crank just be reamed to fit a plain end shaft and use permanent Lok-tite? Maybe the threads make it a stronger joint but the a full shaft has more area to bond. For the price too bad they did not have a casting to shape for this and same for the cylinder end caps. I must have been spoiled by building the PM Research #3.🤣
Apparently that is typical of Stuart models drawings incomplete, miss dimensioned, missing dimensions, angles all sorts. Don't think I will bother wasting nearly £100 for this or any other of their more expensive models. But you Ade are making a sow's purse out of a pigs ear! Keep it up mate ( ps, I would have lost the Stuart logo first time! Just to piss them off !
Hi Ade, when you were setting up the rotary table up, would it be possible to turn the table rather than the quill, you would be able to see the gauge all the time then.
Turning the table would show you any runout between the component and the axis of the rotary table which should then be corrected. It would still then be necessary to orbit the indicator around the component in order to have the milling machine spindle axis and the rotary table axis co - incident before moving to the .625" offset.
Hej vän Jag Jag vill veta om du kan göra ett jobb för mig? De är två delar för ett RC-hobbyprojekt som jag har och jag vet inte hur man arbetar med svarv och jag bor i Kungsbacka ?????????
Hi Ade, looking good mate, nice job. Missing a bit of DFM me thinks ('Dimensioned' for Manufacture). Well figured out. I envy you, not been skip surfing for years, used to be a favourite past time of mine! Cheers, Jon
I know nothing about engineering but I'm fascinated with your video of the Stuart S50 pump. In the mid to late 70's I worked at the Caerphilly Tar Plant where I was surrounded by Evans steam pumps. These pumps worked 24/7 365 days of the year. Waiting for the next video. Very best wishes Clive
Hi Ade, nice work. Crankshafts can be a bugger. The mill engine that I am still constructing called for a turned crankshaft (different diameters across) and a press fit into the crank web. All done including scoring the shaft to allow the added security of Loctite! I admit that mine does have split main bearings (a different can of worms). Keep up the good work sir.
Gday Ades, the crankshaft is looking great so far, always enjoy the way you explain the theory with measurements and I’m learning along the way, thanks mate, take care, Cheers Matty
Hello Ade,
Nice progress on the Stuart S50, the crankshaft look good... also, nice find with the vice, hopefully you will be sharing with us how you bring it back to life...
Take care.
Paul,,
Hi Adrian,
I got my re-machinable MT2 tool holders, and a MT3 to MT2 sleeve. Happy Days, thanks for the idea.
Nice bit of work Ade, quite a bit of figuring despite having a drawing in hand. Enjoyed it very much. Nice little vise score too, I have a small one in my basement shop and it is ridiculous how often it is the go to tool, so that 4" will be a great addition. Stay safe and cheers!
Hi, Ade. Of course if the chord length had been specified the drawing would be over dimensioned (too many tolerances!) but a reference dimension for the included angle would have been great! I would never have been smart enough to machine two parallel side to the wide dimension first; I get educated every time I watch you!
Watched whilst having me tea, parts are lookin great! TFS Ade, GB :)
Dear Adrian
I found a neat little item that I have been getting a kick out of using that can be used one-handed with a little practice they are very expensive, and I sent you a few to keep or give out and share as you wish. Once more I failed to put my letter inside the package so what does the message stand as the accompanying letter.
Maybe you can talk about the coat of arms flag in your window sometime.
All the BEST from my family to YOURS
Be good to see a wee side episode of the scrap find vice being restored Ade
I am sure it will feature soon . Cheers Ade.
Thanks Ade
Hi Ade, I would have put some packing under that crank web before drilling. Just to be on the safe side.
Interesting video. Thank you.
I just measured the angle of the crank on my S50. The best that I can measure with it assembled is 34 degrees. The web is considerably narrower than yours. Keep in mind that I did not machine my engine and that the angle and dimensions are strictly for clearance. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Steven . My 16 degrees works but if i have balance issues i can go to 17 degrees that will give me the same . I may yet do the maths to work out the angle based on the dimensions . It may help with future builders . Cheers Ade.
@@ade63dug Cheers Ade. I'm late to the party here, but a bit of fiddling with some trig and based on the Stuart numbers I get 18.8 degrees, confirmed by a quick check in CAD. Your numbers check out for 16 degrees so I agree with you - either the numbers are right or the drawing is but not both!
I haven't gotten to this part yet but wanted to do the geometry on it. 30 degrees on the drawing is approximate. it'll be ok but will have vibration when the engine goes above 300rpm
Another good video, thanks. I assume the wedge shape of the crank is to act as a counter balance to the mass of the piston and con rod so the engine runs smoothly. When you finish the conecting rod and piston, if you were to 'hang' then from the crank would the couter weight balance them so the crank doesn't rotate? It would be interesting to see if you could fine tune the tapers of the crank to achieve a perfect balance.
I think the drawing was a bit short on detail there. It gave you the small end width and the large end width I believe? If it had given you a characteristic length, ie the straight line dimension between the large end and small end, you could have calculated the tangent of the taper angle. So if the large end is A, the small end is B and the length between is C and the angle is x:-, tan x = A - B/2C. Take the inverse tangent to get the angle. This is the full included angle so you would need to machine half of this per side. So if x = 32 degrees for example, machine 16 degrees per side. Nice work though. Really enjoy your channel.
As always, a very enjoyable and chip inspiring video. Thanks!
If I would be You I would have a serious talk with the people producing the drawings. The drawings are supposed to turn into a steam engine, not a toilet....
Did your improvisation include a set of Mole or Vise grips lol.
Nice work Ade, great vlog.
Thanks for sharing.
Could the crank just be reamed to fit a plain end shaft and use permanent Lok-tite? Maybe the threads make it a stronger joint but the a full shaft has more area to bond.
For the price too bad they did not have a casting to shape for this and same for the cylinder end caps. I must have been spoiled by building the PM Research #3.🤣
Nice job .
Apparently that is typical of Stuart models drawings incomplete, miss dimensioned, missing dimensions, angles all sorts. Don't think I will bother wasting nearly £100 for this or any other of their more expensive models. But you Ade are making a sow's purse out of a pigs ear! Keep it up mate ( ps, I would have lost the Stuart logo first time! Just to piss them off !
10/10
nice work
Hi Ade, when you were setting up the rotary table up, would it be possible to turn the table rather than the quill, you would be able to see the gauge all the time then.
Turning the table would show you any runout between the component and the axis of the rotary table which should then be corrected. It would still then be necessary to orbit the indicator around the component in order to have the milling machine spindle axis and the rotary table axis co - incident before moving to the .625" offset.
Interrupted by ads.
As is all TV, what's your point!
Hej vän Jag Jag vill veta om du kan göra ett jobb för mig? De är två delar för ett RC-hobbyprojekt som jag har och jag vet inte hur man arbetar med svarv och jag bor i Kungsbacka ?????????
Wow . Sverige är en lång väg att skicka delar. Om du kunde maila mig med en ritning av vad du behöver kan jag kanske hjälpa till. Skål Ade.
Hi Ade, looking good mate, nice job. Missing a bit of DFM me thinks ('Dimensioned' for Manufacture). Well figured out. I envy you, not been skip surfing for years, used to be a favourite past time of mine! Cheers, Jon