I have had this lens since 2002 and thought it had bitten the dust when this fault recently happened. Thank you so much for this video, it worked perfectly and my lens is now ready to go again!
Thanks for the video. Nikon estimated the repair cost to be $452.95, but I was able to fix it for $0 thanks to your video. The only problem I had was that the head of one of the three screws broke off, which required me to drill the screw out (not a big deal). Works like new again.
Andy, thanks to you and your video, it took me 4 minutes to repair a lens that I thought was done for. My copy didn't have the brass ring, and I used a guitar pick to tamp down the ribbon cable.
Excellent video, thank you Andy! Manual and autofocus work great! Based on the step in the video to re-seat the focus ring, before removing any screws I taped the focus ring to the barrel. Don’t know if that made a difference, but the focus ring stayed in place. Based on other comments, I ordered a set of JIS standard screwdrivers that included size 00 from Amazon... Moody stock #58-0405. The repair took about 15 minutes and half of that time was spent dialing up my courage to attack the lens with a screwdriver.
@@jfkbunkie Well, I tried, and I can't reassemble correctly, the ring does not drive AF, not even in manual mode, I probably missed something, is there a way to to have haunts so that the MAP ring causes the focus? thank you very much
Much appreciated, this worked like a charm, the only thing I did differently was when I had to remove the front ring to check the screw hole position, the copper band stayed on the front ring. It was easier to place and leave it there than try to mate it on that ridge.
Thanks I just fixed 95% of the squeaking from my copy. Beware when unmounting that a LOT of old dust might get into the front element, I had to take out mine afterwards but my AF speed improved a lot and now I can barely hear the noise. The correct screwdriver is very important, I almost damaged my screws, pay for a good screwdriver, don't be cheap on this!
Thanks so much for this repair video. I was already giving up this lens as a nikon repair would be for sure financially a desaster. I really hope the ribboncable stays in place otherwise I will have to superglue it.
There are some inspection windows under the focus ring rubber band. You can access the ribbon easily, only need your nails and fingers to retire the rubber band.
Yes, for now using that method without disassembling the lens, let's see for how long does it will last, otherwise I fear that a more complex disassembling will be needed to put some new adhesive under the infamous orange ribbon..
@@j.r.r.m.8808 Thank you! I bought it even if I knew it was squeaking because it was a light grey version that I like much more :P Paid less and banking on the "window trick" to keep it going :)
I have a 80- 200 2.8D "new" version, that slips in manual focus mode, Nikon wanted $600! for the repair, that's 80% of what the lens is worth, so I am trying to find a cheaper place for the fix.
This is a great DIY video. Sadly I have had to do this repair twice now. Is there a recommended adhesive to use on the ribbon cable so it doesn’t continue to reoccur?
First of all - be aware that there is a real risk that application of an adhesive will do more harm than good. I was prepared to use one of the low viscosity adhesives from Loctite ("super glue" type product) that could be painted on to the ribbon cable. It did not end up being necessary, so I can't give any advice from real experience. Two precautions worth considering: ensure that the adhesive you choose is (a) compatible with the plastic used in the lens barrel as well as the ribbon cable. Some adhesives will dissolve plastic materials, depending on their chemical composition, and (b) allows enough working time so that you can finesse the ribbon into place without it becoming bonded to the wrong location.
@@jfkbunkie That is exactly the reason I inquired about adhesives knowing that certain types can be damaging to the plastic barrel and possibly the ribbon cable. Many first choices don’t give any working time…superglue types require that everything be lined up perfectly the first time. Epoxies tend to be too thick and like to have a “roughened” surface. Some of the locktite varieties require an activator to be applied. The activator composition may be a concern there. Anything that has to be held in place for any period of time has opportunities for the ribbon cable to move. Wish we knew what Nikon used originally and if it was something that could be applied after the fact. Thank you for your time.
@@jjjohnson7095 Perhaps it is an option to disassemble the lens beyond what I did in the video to gain better access to the inside of the barrel. This would offer the chance to be precise in applying adhesive, positioning the ribbon, and taking care of any excess adhesive that squeezes out. That's all speculative on my part, of course. Wish I could be of more help.
I did find the service manual for the lens although it looked like an intense disassembly process. In thinking about it and the lack of room to apply any sort of adhesive I figured out I could run about 1.5 inches of tape so that there was plenty on either side to keep it in place. I found some scotch extra hold cellophane tape and split it lengthwise so it was may 3/8” wide by 1.5” long. Using a whittled down chopstick I was able to put it in place and press it into place so that it holds the ribbon cable captive to the channel. So far it seems to be sufficient. I am contemplating a newer model of this lens and a firmware update to the D810 will provide support for the new P lens although it seems to break support for 3rd party lenses (Sigma and Tamron). So that is a no go for now. I’ll keep this around for my film bodies and lower MP digital bodies and likely find a VR II version of the lens for my D700 and D810.
@@jjjohnson7095 It takes a lot of thinking to straddle the fence between old Nikon and new. I'm glad you were able to get some more life out of your AF-S 80-200/2.8D IF-ED.
I have the exact same lense. My problem is the glass under the external glass looks smeared, very strange. My question is after removing those 3 screws and the top barrel can you remove the external glass layer and get to the glass under it? Hope this all makes sense. Thanks in advance.
Great video! I have the same problem with mine.. wish I'd watched this before starting to attempt the repair. Any advice on aligning the wave washers? I can't seem to get the focus ring seated correctly.
I found it very difficult to align them while sliding the barrel back together. Best solution that I could come up with was to ease it into place after assembly with a plastic or Teflon tool with a mini pry-bar head (often used for cell phone repair).
When I removed the ribbon rings it was almost wavy like a snake, and I smoothed both out, dusted off, and put it back in place. I also put the screws on and tried to put it back on my nikon camera, but sometimes the focus gets out of control and the sizzling continues. What can I do to fix it please help?
It just takes a fair amount of jiggling. If you really have difficulty, you could roll a piece of paper into a cylinder around the exposed barrel to act as a guide to slide the bearings into place.
Andy, have you heard or know the diagnosis of auto and manual focus working full range, but sluggish in auto? Could it also be cable related or does that indicate motor failure?
I have an old one. It has a focus range limit dial behind the lens label. I don’t see the 3 screws the video has. Seems the same issue though- limited focus range. My lens was dropped as there is a ding in the front rim. Do I pull the label or is there another approach?
Hey Andy, just bought one used on Adorama for $700+. Thought it was odd it made that squeak sound when something was too close. Should I take it somewhere to make sure that’s the problem or try it myself? It does stop around 5 when even manual focusing and what type of adeshive did you have on standby. Also thanks for the video, only person I could find with this problem and the solution!
If you are confident in your abilities, the fix is pretty straightforward, just as the video shows. I'm pretty sure a repair shop would do nothing different. Regarding adhesives, I initially thought to use double sided tape, but there may not be enough internal clearance to accommodate the added thickness. So I had a light epoxy ready to go instead. Super glue or plastic model liquid cement would probably work fine, but in my experience, epoxy bonds last pretty much forever. If you need to use any adhesive, apply just enough to make the bond and make sure to let it cure before reassembly to prevent any excess adhesive that squeezes out from restricting normal movement.
Good luck with the second attempt. It's a great lens and worth the effort to get it working. I shot literally thousands of images with mine before upgrading to the 70-200mm VR2. When I look back at the photos with the 80-200, I think they are generally sharper than the ones with the newer optic, at least at higher shutter speeds where handholding doesn't benefit from VR.
Andy, I am buying this lens off ebay and the seller says that the focus works well but occasionally it freezes up when trying to acquire focus and makes this high pitch sound (which I noticed in your video before you fixed it.). He states you just need to turn the focus ring manually and it fixes the problem. does this sound like the ribbon issue you are fixing in this video. when I saw the video I thought this is the issue and found it very helpful..I just wanted your thoughts. thank you in advance.
That is a really good question. It certainly sounds like an issue with the ribbon detaching. However, AF motors don't last forever (and they are costly to replace - if you can even find the right motor for this lens, as Nikon long ago stopped making parts for it). Do make sure you're getting the correct version of the lens, though. The lens designation information should say AF-S Nikkor, located down near the tripod collar not AF Nikkor located immediately under the distance window. The former (though older) has much better optics than the latter.
@@algerinostylee I did not have to use any adhesive to secure the cable on mine, but I was prepared to use Loctite superglue if needed. However, I am not an expert on this at all, so I suggest doing some further research.
Only issue I have with this..? DO NOT Use a "Phillips" Screwdriver - you could potentially strip the screws. BUY a Set of JIS Screwdrivers from Japan..Similar but different and they are designed to work with Japanese Type Screws. Also. ALWAYS dab a bit of Acetone with a Q-Tip on the screw heads...softens up the Glue/Locktite used by Nikon.. back in the day.
Asking a favor to anyone that has this lens: on my D3S I've noticed that if I leave the option for "Auto-Meter OFF Delay" at the default 6 seconds and don't use the camera, then the lens basically doesn't AF anymore, it's like it falls in a sort of "hybernation" and only if I try many times and focus very close then it begins again to focus towards infinity. The very puzzling thing is that if I prolong the Delay time to, say 10 minutes, within that time the lens focuses without problems. I'm asking because I recall that my other copy of the 80-200 had the same issue on my Nikon Df, so it seems really like a bug of the lens. Anyone experincing the same issue with this lens?
And by the way... there seem to be different versions of this lens. Mine has no brass spacer ring between the front collar and the focus ring unfortunately.
Yes, the AF and AF-S versions of the 80-200mm have different designs and optical formulas, but both are prone to a loose ribbon cable interfering with the focus mechanism.
I got a mint looking one but it has this problem. It gets a bit stuck, but will go all the way to end to end. There's a bit of noise as I go over the point of resistance. Second problem is it seems to be front focussing wide open. Very easy to get a sharp ear instead of sharp eye. It also seems to be back focussing on some instances. This I don't understand. Never thought a lens can have both a front and back focus problem at the same time. Would these be related? There's no Nikon specialist where I am. I may have to try fixing it myself. What do you think is the problem?
If you feel resistance at a certain point in the focus throw, I would guess that the ribbon has begun to detach. Before repairing, it would be wise to ensure you are getting accurate focus with appropriate confirmation displayed in camera (the dot in the viewfinder or a green box on the LCD screen). If this can be achieved by manually focusing, it would be worth your time to attempt repair. If not, the lens has other issues, and repair would be much more complex. I hope this helps...
I would make certain that your repair shop has or is able to obtain a replacement AF motor before buying this particular lens knowing it needs a new one. AFAIK, Nikon stopped producing replacement parts some time ago.
mine does not autofoucs at all but sometimes does when i keep taking pics and pressing the round buttons any help on that plz ? manuel is fine all the way and when the autofoucs works its fine no problems but the autofoucs works 10% of the time why is that happening
HamOOdy Alonley that sounds like a problem with the electrical contacts or the AF motor itself. If it’s the former, cleaning the contacts on the lens mount will help. Also, if there is any looseness or play in the mount, and the AF works when you gently twist the lens against the mount, you might solve the problem by replacing the mount. Otherwise, you’ll need a new AF motor.
If two different lenses don't work, it could be that the electrical contacts on the camera's lens mount require cleaning. I believe the D610 should be compatible with all D lenses, with or without their own focusing motors.
In my cases (I've done this repair on two different copies of the 80-200) it was sufficient just to press the ribbon back in place and rely on the original adhesive to hold. If that hadn't worked, I was prepared to apply additional adhesive, but just be careful to use something that will not add too much thickness. As I'm sure you noticed, there isn't much clearance between the ribbon and the inside of the barrel.
hi what was your problem I have one that does not focus, I can not follow the video subtitles in English. you could modify for subtitles translation a greeting
I have had this lens since 2002 and thought it had bitten the dust when this fault recently happened. Thank you so much for this video, it worked perfectly and my lens is now ready to go again!
Une vidéo qui à sauvé la vie de mon objectif Merci
Thanks for the video. Nikon estimated the repair cost to be $452.95, but I was able to fix it for $0 thanks to your video. The only problem I had was that the head of one of the three screws broke off, which required me to drill the screw out (not a big deal). Works like new again.
Good work, William!
Andy, thanks to you and your video, it took me 4 minutes to repair a lens that I thought was done for. My copy didn't have the brass ring, and I used a guitar pick to tamp down the ribbon cable.
I’m glad it helped! And thanks for the note.
Excellent video, thank you Andy! Manual and autofocus work great! Based on the step in the video to re-seat the focus ring, before removing any screws I taped the focus ring to the barrel. Don’t know if that made a difference, but the focus ring stayed in place. Based on other comments, I ordered a set of JIS standard screwdrivers that included size 00 from Amazon... Moody stock #58-0405. The repair took about 15 minutes and half of that time was spent dialing up my courage to attack the lens with a screwdriver.
Glad to hear that this helped you, Bob!
@@jfkbunkie Well, I tried, and I can't reassemble correctly, the ring does not drive AF, not even in manual mode, I probably missed something, is there a way to to have haunts so that the MAP ring causes the focus? thank you very much
ABSOLUTELY Brilliant!!!! An easy repair with minimum disassembly!!! Thanks so very much!
Glad to help!
This was the fix for my 80-200 af-s! Thank you so much. Feared it was a goner as really not worth an expensive repair at this point.
THanks so much Chen just repaired mine today and now my AF-S runs as a brand new.
THANK YOU sooooo much for posting this tutorial! I was able to repair my lens with very little intrusive work. Outstanding!
Thanks for commenting!
Thanks, Andy fixed the squeak and autofocusing problem finally!
Much appreciated, this worked like a charm, the only thing I did differently was when I had to remove the front ring to check the screw hole position, the copper band stayed on the front ring. It was easier to place and leave it there than try to mate it on that ridge.
Good tip!
Thanks I just fixed 95% of the squeaking from my copy. Beware when unmounting that a LOT of old dust might get into the front element, I had to take out mine afterwards but my AF speed improved a lot and now I can barely hear the noise. The correct screwdriver is very important, I almost damaged my screws, pay for a good screwdriver, don't be cheap on this!
What brand would you recommend?
@@mikaelsoppa I bought Stanley
Thanks so much for this repair video. I was already giving up this lens as a nikon repair would be for sure financially a desaster.
I really hope the ribboncable stays in place otherwise I will have to superglue it.
Thanks to you and your Video. I have repaired mine in 20 Minutes. It works like a charm again.
The screws were so tight on mine that attempting to unscrew them only stripped the screws :) Thanks for the video 👍🏻
Thank you so much! Exactly my issue. Exactly the kind of tutorial I like to see
There are some inspection windows under the focus ring rubber band. You can access the ribbon easily, only need your nails and fingers to retire the rubber band.
Yes, for now using that method without disassembling the lens, let's see for how long does it will last, otherwise I fear that a more complex disassembling will be needed to put some new adhesive under the infamous orange ribbon..
@@admiralvontirpitz7115 Good luck !
@@j.r.r.m.8808 Thank you! I bought it even if I knew it was squeaking because it was a light grey version that I like much more :P Paid less and banking on the "window trick" to keep it going :)
That was amazing, a $600 repair by Nikon.
I have a 80- 200 2.8D "new" version, that slips in manual focus mode, Nikon wanted $600! for the repair, that's 80% of what the lens is worth, so I am trying to find a cheaper place for the fix.
Great video and thank you for it. I will be trying this today when I get home. Which way does that ribbon cable go? Seems easy. Fingers crossed.
It rests between the focus ring and the inner barrel.
Thank you very much for the super video !!
I also have fixed :)
This is a great DIY video. Sadly I have had to do this repair twice now. Is there a recommended adhesive to use on the ribbon cable so it doesn’t continue to reoccur?
First of all - be aware that there is a real risk that application of an adhesive will do more harm than good. I was prepared to use one of the low viscosity adhesives from Loctite ("super glue" type product) that could be painted on to the ribbon cable. It did not end up being necessary, so I can't give any advice from real experience. Two precautions worth considering: ensure that the adhesive you choose is (a) compatible with the plastic used in the lens barrel as well as the ribbon cable. Some adhesives will dissolve plastic materials, depending on their chemical composition, and (b) allows enough working time so that you can finesse the ribbon into place without it becoming bonded to the wrong location.
@@jfkbunkie That is exactly the reason I inquired about adhesives knowing that certain types can be damaging to the plastic barrel and possibly the ribbon cable. Many first choices don’t give any working time…superglue types require that everything be lined up perfectly the first time. Epoxies tend to be too thick and like to have a “roughened” surface. Some of the locktite varieties require an activator to be applied. The activator composition may be a concern there. Anything that has to be held in place for any period of time has opportunities for the ribbon cable to move. Wish we knew what Nikon used originally and if it was something that could be applied after the fact. Thank you for your time.
@@jjjohnson7095 Perhaps it is an option to disassemble the lens beyond what I did in the video to gain better access to the inside of the barrel. This would offer the chance to be precise in applying adhesive, positioning the ribbon, and taking care of any excess adhesive that squeezes out. That's all speculative on my part, of course. Wish I could be of more help.
I did find the service manual for the lens although it looked like an intense disassembly process. In thinking about it and the lack of room to apply any sort of adhesive I figured out I could run about 1.5 inches of tape so that there was plenty on either side to keep it in place. I found some scotch extra hold cellophane tape and split it lengthwise so it was may 3/8” wide by 1.5” long. Using a whittled down chopstick I was able to put it in place and press it into place so that it holds the ribbon cable captive to the channel. So far it seems to be sufficient. I am contemplating a newer model of this lens and a firmware update to the D810 will provide support for the new P lens although it seems to break support for 3rd party lenses (Sigma and Tamron). So that is a no go for now. I’ll keep this around for my film bodies and lower MP digital bodies and likely find a VR II version of the lens for my D700 and D810.
@@jjjohnson7095 It takes a lot of thinking to straddle the fence between old Nikon and new. I'm glad you were able to get some more life out of your AF-S 80-200/2.8D IF-ED.
I have the exact same lense. My problem is the glass under the external glass looks smeared, very strange. My question is after removing those 3 screws and the top barrel can you remove the external glass layer and get to the glass under it? Hope this all makes sense. Thanks in advance.
Looks exactly like my problem. I'll give it a try before sending it to repair.
Great video! I have the same problem with mine.. wish I'd watched this before starting to attempt the repair. Any advice on aligning the wave washers? I can't seem to get the focus ring seated correctly.
I found it very difficult to align them while sliding the barrel back together. Best solution that I could come up with was to ease it into place after assembly with a plastic or Teflon tool with a mini pry-bar head (often used for cell phone repair).
When I removed the ribbon rings it was almost wavy like a snake, and I smoothed both out, dusted off, and put it back in place. I also put the screws on and tried to put it back on my nikon camera, but sometimes the focus gets out of control and the sizzling continues. What can I do to fix it please help?
It just takes a fair amount of jiggling. If you really have difficulty, you could roll a piece of paper into a cylinder around the exposed barrel to act as a guide to slide the bearings into place.
Andy, have you heard or know the diagnosis of auto and manual focus working full range, but sluggish in auto? Could it also be cable related or does that indicate motor failure?
Thank you for this video..very very helpful. subscribed!
I have an old one. It has a focus range limit dial behind the lens label. I don’t see the 3 screws the video has. Seems the same issue though- limited focus range. My lens was dropped as there is a ding in the front rim. Do I pull the label or is there another approach?
Hey Andy, just bought one used on Adorama for $700+. Thought it was odd it made that squeak sound when something was too close. Should I take it somewhere to make sure that’s the problem or try it myself? It does stop around 5 when even manual focusing and what type of adeshive did you have on standby. Also thanks for the video, only person I could find with this problem and the solution!
If you are confident in your abilities, the fix is pretty straightforward, just as the video shows. I'm pretty sure a repair shop would do nothing different. Regarding adhesives, I initially thought to use double sided tape, but there may not be enough internal clearance to accommodate the added thickness. So I had a light epoxy ready to go instead. Super glue or plastic model liquid cement would probably work fine, but in my experience, epoxy bonds last pretty much forever. If you need to use any adhesive, apply just enough to make the bond and make sure to let it cure before reassembly to prevent any excess adhesive that squeezes out from restricting normal movement.
Yea I did the fix and it came up a day later. I’m gonna have to use adhesive
Good luck with the second attempt. It's a great lens and worth the effort to get it working. I shot literally thousands of images with mine before upgrading to the 70-200mm VR2. When I look back at the photos with the 80-200, I think they are generally sharper than the ones with the newer optic, at least at higher shutter speeds where handholding doesn't benefit from VR.
I'm having troubles with my 80-200 f/2.8D. It doesnt autofocus and can't control the aperture. Does anybody have an idea on how to fix it?
Screws use to be JIS in japanese stuff, not Phillips type. You ought to use a JIS screwdriwer to not damage screws.
I have the same problem with the "push-pull" version of this lens.
Andy, I am buying this lens off ebay and the seller says that the focus works well but occasionally it freezes up when trying to acquire focus and makes this high pitch sound (which I noticed in your video before you fixed it.). He states you just need to turn the focus ring manually and it fixes the problem. does this sound like the ribbon issue you are fixing in this video. when I saw the video I thought this is the issue and found it very helpful..I just wanted your thoughts. thank you in advance.
That is a really good question. It certainly sounds like an issue with the ribbon detaching. However, AF motors don't last forever (and they are costly to replace - if you can even find the right motor for this lens, as Nikon long ago stopped making parts for it). Do make sure you're getting the correct version of the lens, though. The lens designation information should say AF-S Nikkor, located down near the tripod collar not AF Nikkor located immediately under the distance window. The former (though older) has much better optics than the latter.
Thank youuuuuuuuuuu!
Glad to help!
@@andychen4123 hi friend, which glue can I use to reattach the flex cable please? Thank you
@@algerinostylee I did not have to use any adhesive to secure the cable on mine, but I was prepared to use Loctite superglue if needed. However, I am not an expert on this at all, so I suggest doing some further research.
Only issue I have with this..?
DO NOT Use a "Phillips" Screwdriver - you could potentially strip the screws. BUY a Set of JIS Screwdrivers from Japan..Similar but different and they are designed to work with Japanese Type Screws. Also. ALWAYS dab a bit of Acetone with a Q-Tip on the screw heads...softens up the Glue/Locktite used by Nikon.. back in the day.
Asking a favor to anyone that has this lens: on my D3S I've noticed that if I leave the option for "Auto-Meter OFF Delay" at the default 6 seconds and don't use the camera, then the lens basically doesn't AF anymore, it's like it falls in a sort of "hybernation" and only if I try many times and focus very close then it begins again to focus towards infinity. The very puzzling thing is that if I prolong the Delay time to, say 10 minutes, within that time the lens focuses without problems. I'm asking because I recall that my other copy of the 80-200 had the same issue on my Nikon Df, so it seems really like a bug of the lens. Anyone experincing the same issue with this lens?
And by the way... there seem to be different versions of this lens. Mine has no brass spacer ring between the front collar and the focus ring unfortunately.
Yes, the AF and AF-S versions of the 80-200mm have different designs and optical formulas, but both are prone to a loose ribbon cable interfering with the focus mechanism.
I got a mint looking one but it has this problem. It gets a bit stuck, but will go all the way to end to end. There's a bit of noise as I go over the point of resistance.
Second problem is it seems to be front focussing wide open. Very easy to get a sharp ear instead of sharp eye.
It also seems to be back focussing on some instances. This I don't understand. Never thought a lens can have both a front and back focus problem at the same time.
Would these be related? There's no Nikon specialist where I am. I may have to try fixing it myself.
What do you think is the problem?
Just to add it's AFD not AFS
If you feel resistance at a certain point in the focus throw, I would guess that the ribbon has begun to detach. Before repairing, it would be wise to ensure you are getting accurate focus with appropriate confirmation displayed in camera (the dot in the viewfinder or a green box on the LCD screen). If this can be achieved by manually focusing, it would be worth your time to attempt repair. If not, the lens has other issues, and repair would be much more complex. I hope this helps...
Any idea for a dear focus motor? It works only in manual. Bargain price, immaculate except the motor. Shall i buy and try to repair?
I would make certain that your repair shop has or is able to obtain a replacement AF motor before buying this particular lens knowing it needs a new one. AFAIK, Nikon stopped producing replacement parts some time ago.
mine does not autofoucs at all
but sometimes does when i keep taking pics and pressing the round buttons
any help on that plz ? manuel is fine all the way and when the autofoucs works its fine no problems
but the autofoucs works 10% of the time why is that happening
HamOOdy Alonley that sounds like a problem with the electrical contacts or the AF motor itself. If it’s the former, cleaning the contacts on the lens mount will help. Also, if there is any looseness or play in the mount, and the AF works when you gently twist the lens against the mount, you might solve the problem by replacing the mount. Otherwise, you’ll need a new AF motor.
Why does Nikon D610 not focus on two D lenses? As if the connection on the contacts is not good works well?
If two different lenses don't work, it could be that the electrical contacts on the camera's lens mount require cleaning. I believe the D610 should be compatible with all D lenses, with or without their own focusing motors.
@@andychen4123 50mm 1.8D and 80-200 2.8D work correct,28mm 2.8D and 85 1.8D does not work. As if the scarf does not fit.
i did this with mine but the ribbon popped put again. how do you reseat the ribbon so that it doesnt come out again?
In my cases (I've done this repair on two different copies of the 80-200) it was sufficient just to press the ribbon back in place and rely on the original adhesive to hold. If that hadn't worked, I was prepared to apply additional adhesive, but just be careful to use something that will not add too much thickness. As I'm sure you noticed, there isn't much clearance between the ribbon and the inside of the barrel.
hi what was your problem I have one that does not focus, I can not follow the video subtitles in English.
you could modify for subtitles translation a greeting
Lo siento - I don't know Spanish well enough to translate.
update for youtube can translate subtitles to all languages.
look at options in updated youtube videos translate a greeting
This is not the af-D version! This is the AF-S version, the last one before 70-200 series!
Agree completely. I titled the video "AF-S 80-200mm f/2.8D." To my knowledge, that is the precise Nikon designation for the lens.
simple fix...same me much $'s