12v71 Detroit Head Removal. Teardown Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2021
- We remove the heads from our 12v71 Detroit
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Those manifold bolts are torqued to the German spec. Goodintight
I've heard of old timers in the field doing in-frames with nothin' but a rattle-gun and feel, so i'm not surprised. Detroits have some of the funnest wrench-access engineered in. Not many special tools for them, the manual is like "if you don't have a shop press, use a punch and a hammer" and "if it leaks, tighten it" etc.
@@macelius 😂Thats why these engines lasted forever. Even the low iq mechanics could fix em
Brings back good memories...My Father and my brother and I rebuilt an old silver 92 back in 85.
On manifold nuts just back um all off a bit and slide manifold off. My ADD kicked in at 2:40.
You and Matt make a terrific team. He listens when you are teaching. 3 Cheers.
Spending an extra 30 seconds, but saving a boatload of frustration later. Good way to go.
It's so nice to watch you and Matt working together I'm so happy to watch Matt ask you questions and listens to You when you are explaining things. What a huge difference from the Trans Job video, it's awesome when a Farther and Son work together really enjoy watching these videos. Awesome video as always keep up the Amazing Awesome work Matt
Keep these coming, this is awesome stuff!
I really love to watch these videos. So much to learn. Even from language perspective.
I just wanted to say that your boy is definitely a smart one, because yes, engineers design the stuff people work on, and almost always, they design it in such a way that mechanics are always left scratching their heads, wondering just what went into building an engine.
I myself wonder why engineers arent required to take stuff apart, before building the same type of stuff.
And just saying, I've never seen any diesel engine torn down, so this is quite a treat for me, watching you guys tear down this 12-cylinder Detroit. And the way the young guy is going, should he choose to, he'll make one hell of a fine diesel tech. I'm thoroughly impressed by his work ethic. Good job, the both of you! 👍👍👊👊
Dig the new setup steve. Always a pleasure to watch you an matt work as a team. Wish my dad did stuff with me but he did what he could an for that i love him. Keep on keeping on!!
You're a great teacher. Thanks for the video.
Good job showing and telling, see you on the next one and have a great one.
Man finally a channel using the correct tools ensted of inpacks on every thing … everything but an opened ended torque wrench
Nothing wrong with using an impact gun to disassemble most engines or transmissions it’s the going back together that you leave the impact gun in the tool box and use hand tools to reassemble everything.
@@gullreefclub nothing more satisfying than braking a bolt loos with hand tools
Thank you for these videos awesome !!!
We built a couple of heavy engine stands that we used our shop crane to lift the engine into the cradle.. It had heavy casters on it so it would roll around plus had a horizontal rotisserie for turning the block for access..
Love the 12v71 content!!!!!
Another great video! Really getting into this!
Those exhaust manifold nuts are interesting on the Detroits. Note the thread pitch! Fine threads. As you discovered, they are loosened and the manifold slides off.
Be sure to reference the torque specifications on them, in the order of 23 ft-lb if I recall.
Replaced manifolds on one after they were overtorqued instead of replacing the gaskets. Great video, man!
Best to slide it back in too, till it rests on the little ledges. Some people try to tighten it down with the flange overlapping them and that's a guaranteed cracked mani.
Was there a special tool to get those on and off?
That would be a full time job just to get them on...and very tideous and boring...I wonder how many v12 engines they
assembled in a day ?
Good to see yall have fun v 12 take care buddy .
Great video Steve.
Are ya dun yet? Can't wait to see what this beast is going into. The anticipation is killing me.
You ain't the only one!!
Building an engine and memories keep at it lads
Did a stack of these in the BC Coast logging camps, still hear the 2stroke joke fire up and then be the green leakers. Even factory designed with drip tubes, we put hoses on them and into a jug,
It would be awesome to see your buzzin dozen in a needle nose truck. Something from the 50s or 60s that matches that engines era. Either that or drop it in a shiny new Freightliner cascadia so people crap their pants when you start her up.
Nice father and son working together
Good Work Men ..... Crows foot with your torque.....
Love the new channel Steve. Looking forward to v-12 rebuild! My brother used to work on 16v-645 loco engines when he was on the USS Nimitz. They had four on the ship and used them for electrical power generation. Each had two huge turbo's and ran 3,000 hp at 900 rpm max. Btw, on your engine the numbering of the cylinders from the front is 1,2,3,4,5,6 Left Bank and 1,2,3,4,5,6 Right bank. With LH (standard) rotation, the firing order is 1l, 5r, 1r, 6l, 2l, 6r, 2r, 4l, 3l, 4r, 3r, 5l.
Yes, its different from the many automobile engines I have done. But even there there were differences. Chevy vs Ford. Chevy runs along the crank, where Ford starts right bank then left bank.
little pointer for you if you have to stamp any more parts that are sided rather that stamp in full RHT- right..... LFT- left etc etc or RH / LH makes things simpler and quicker.
good vids and i'm curious to see if that crack was caused by impact and if it has been repaired on the inside.
Is anyone else seeing what I'm seeing with the old gaskets literally painted to the block and heads and then the various covers, manifolds, etc. painted again after installation? I noticed this on the airbox covers when they removed them in a previous video also. That pretty much guarantees multiple oil leaks as that paint dissolves during run time.😜 *EDIT:* Those heads look like the 4V-HAH heads they use on the 6-71's (4 valve heavy-as-hell)🤣 Nice job getting that left side off without smashing your toes!😁
@FSC Truck Shop what you do for when replacing the heads is with some old head bolts hold in a vice then run chop heads off then slot top of bolts so can get screwdriver on them.
So when rebuilding place bolts in say each corner and one halfway then holds head gasket in place then slide head onto bolts/studs so everything held in place then insert new bolts in others and do middle bolts up a little and work your way out and can unscrew cut bolts/studs with screwdriver and replace with new bolts.
Do all the time with slanted engines.
Fantastic
GOOD WORK..... LETS GO HOME !!!!!!
Any news on the engine 12v can’t wait to see you guys. You make me feel happy cas y don’t get angry reagards Les 🏴❤️🇬🇧👍🇺🇸
That is one fortunate kid hopefully it becomes his one day
flip it onto flywheel housing to remove cylinder kits try to remove as assembly using a bolt in port of liner but not in so faras to hit the bore
SUBSCRIBED STEVE 👏🏻👏🏻👍🏻👍🏻
On the part where you where dealing with the wrench on the exhaust manifold, it almost looked like there was a crack on the water manifold hole near the “c” cast in the head.
A easy way to remove the liners is to use a piece of round steel bar that will fit into the air slots in the liner. You run the piston down and insert the bar into the air intake slots and bar the engine over using the piston to push the liner up.
Hi bud just started watching your stuff love seeing you & son working together. I love any thing to do with Detroit engines . I’m in north wales 🏴 uk reagards Les
Okay watched three out of order 3,1,2, i had 8V71 swallow a valve and engine not truck ran away, in BALTIMORE, real cold, know how the city cops love to ticket trucks, I had a lane and a quarter blocked, at least 6 cops ignored my truck, it was that cold, 8V easier then 12V, I quit school math up to ten, did like you did, get a book and rebuilt it, good job Steve, pull toy here 👍
@22:59 ish you talk about rotating the engine to make it easier to re install. But on an inframe you can't tip the engine over. There's a technique to do it for sure.
Tell the family, welcome to Texas.
Those exhaust manifold nuts use a crow foot wrench.
Take an 11/16" wrench and grind the sides on the open end
Perfect for exh manifolds
A line-wrench might work good on those bolts
Hey Steve, I was just watching your latest video on the trucking channel and I got an idea of a conventional truck you might look at putting this monster in, I was thinking of an Autocar mind you it would have to be 1953 or older because that was before White bought them out, again just a suggestion and good luck in whatever you put it in
use 2 old head bolts weld make a tee use as lifting handles to lift up heads
Who is this Matt guy? You getter keep him around, he is going to be good. YA
You going to in frame it with new bearings, rings, sleeves.... yada yada? The blower assembly seemed to roll pretty nice up top there. Turbo will pick things up. Knock it up to 70 injectors? Pretty sure you want your injectors to match numbers and letters like 70A should be with 70A get away with 70B but never 70C if you can help it. If you knock it up to 70 you'll get more HP but the mileage will be slightly more expensive on the fuel but more effortless sailing. A turbo will just feed more air to everything and that's always a good thing. You can adjust the boost depending on what you want to haul that can be advantageous [little extra boost for the heavier loads helps]. :-)) So cool. You thinking Pete long hood? Can't wait to see. Ol2stroker said he would shoot you a line to help out if you want it. He's way up on these motors as he has a couple of trucks with the 12v71's now and I think he has 3 maybe more counting the trucks he already has them in. He's converted at least one from a generator application to the truck application. You seem to be doing well though. Fun eh? Detroit had blowers in their motors since the 30's... crazy eh? lol Gotta love the old Detroits. Stout motor designs.
well i see u dont know Detroit. Its my home town. I can u think the noise that thing made when the crank throw trapped that bolt head & cracked the block. Its gonna be alot of type job. good luck young man. They do look nice sitten proud in w900. 10.....5 keep on a trucken
2 words, cordless impact
Deboss Garage have or had a 1980s GMC cabover with a badly shagged 8v92. Might be worth a look. your 12v might go in and some ancillaries might swap. They are in Ontario.
That bolt missing could be an indication of a warped head. When the forth bolt in and torqued, If the rack binds, could be a problem.
THE BIG ONE.
They have open end wrench’s with reliefs that act like a rachet
sunburn wow
I’m looking for Speed Shop and accidentally came onto Truck Shop. Wonder where that truck George Orwell drove or something went? 😉
Those bolts you loosen then slide the manifold off with out taking the bolts off.
Never worked on a Detroit, all my work was cat and Cummins motors overhauled a lot of them .
Very different animals. It's a fun learning process.
Boys and Girls, what with that no boys and girls watching this!
Put many miles on one of these in a international cab over and a 76 pete conventional.
Man!! It is always bothersome to me (an old Navy Detroit mechanic) to see people take the Detroits apart with no book or experience in those engines. How to you expect to put that engine back together, set all the clearances and oil pump pressure regulator valves if you don't understand the engine. Wishing you good luck that it don't come apart on ya! 12V71, such a sweet engine!
I have a download of a 600+ page manual.
Hi Steve it's Aron from Australia are you going to respray the truck motor because that color green looks crap
Deboss garage seems to know some about Detroits they killed a v16 if I remember correctly then took it apart showing how it was two v8s
Anybody who knows me will tell you that I’m not a fan of Detroit diesels; for me it’s always been either a Cummins or a Cat: Period! But I’m finding this v12 tear down and eventual rebuild interesting. I’ll be here throughput the whole process, and who knows, maybe you’ll change the mind of this almost 70 year old retired truck driver / part time mechanic..
you cant mix up the heads thermostats to the front!!!!! lol
Spinning wrenches indy 21st century? I’m the same....stuck in a simple time because lithium mining isn’t “green” at all. Unless this is industrial use, you have a good boat anchor. 92s with hairdryers weigh about the same with the power difference justifying all weight. Modern diesels power to weight ratios get better with time
What's up
The heads on Detroits (as well as blowers, liners, pistons, rods, and other parts) are all interchangeable within the same series of engines. (ie 71, 92 series)Sides don't make any difference as everything gets adjusted with go-no go feeler gauges.
wish i have that engines look at ship it has 12 and 8 Detroit engines
Is it bad to use an impact to remove the head bolts?
I think you might have spun the engine to check valve clearance across both sides
1:48 Use an open-ended ratchet wrench.
Ratcheting open-ended wrench. Amazon $40 a set. Both SAE and Metric.
Let's see how it comes apart and goes back together. Will it be in a truck, a tricycle, a boat, a funny car???
GET IN TOUCH WITH ( BUS GREASE MONKEY ) .... HE KNOWS DETROITS
There is special wrenches made for working on Detroit’s, they were shaped like a S.
Hi boys and girls, air tools are your friend
If you have questions on that motor look up ol2strokers channel and send him a message. He's real good with Detroits
Hi
How about a ratchet open end wrench? Would that help you out with the exhaust manifold nuts?
Nowhere near enough room
you use an open ended torque wrench.
i swear Steve you and Matt need to open up yall mechanical engineering school i know ill learn stuff i didn't know about 😘
Why does it seem like the two middle pistons are at Top Dead Center in the block?
Where in Texas are they going?
Whats ur penetrate of choice?
could you not have used a ratchet spanner/wrench on the manifold bolts? looks like there is room for one to fit
Been a long time since.ive seen anyone use a speed handle.
Speed handles are commonly used by high performance engine and transmission builders.
Spann SPEED OPENEND
On those nuts that you can't get off use a rachet closed wrench
That engine is ALOT heavier than a 70's Challenger
it is a bit intimidating but its worth the struggle.
i never realised how tedious these old detroits were to work on there is a lot of little pain in the ass parts on these maybe you should just get a c18 cat and put a mechanical pump on it and you would never have to downshift on any hill as with the detroit its still not going to make a lot of torque even with 2 turbos and pouring the coals to it
Hell no, he got it for the fun and the sound as well. C18, nothing is fun about that.
what cost for that tool ????
STOP ,read shop manual you are causing your self a lot of work leave rocker arms on push rods!!!!
My God man. If you are going to work on BIG TRUCK engines get some BIG TRUCK tools. Craftsman is for home and shop. Cheater pipe okay, took you long enough. You can use an impact to remove head bolts. Do you have an impact?
spay paint
you could of just split the exhaust manifold bolts with a chisel
what happened to your head?
New Head Bolts are a must !
On a detroit? The manual says nothing about replacing them..
@@macelius Those are Bolts. With only 4 Bolt's per Cylinder, new Bolts or even Studs is a small price for peace of mind.
@@vaccumme I don't disagree, other than there are a lot of them in a v12 and they do add up. All bolts is a little strange, 'cause most of them use studs and bolts unless it's a low head clearance application like in a bus, to facilitate an in-frame (both my "lazy 8" 8v71s that were transversely-mounted are all bolts, makes head installation a pita). I guess it must have come from some equipment and not a truck though, and there were so many variations and people building them their own way over the years that nothing should be surprising.
From the 71 series maintenance manual:
"CYLINDER HEAD STUDS
Cylinder head studs should be replaced if they
have been damaged. Whenever cylinder head
studs are replaced, the studs should extend 4%"
± 1/ 32" above the top surface of the block."
It also mentions lowering the head on to the "studs", and tightening the "studs and nuts" in the head installation section.
@@macelius Hmm. Many variations ?
@@vaccumme Yeap, from accessory and component locations to all kinds of customer specced stuff that was application specific. This is just for the v71s; www.powerlinecomponents.com/literature/detroit_diesel/v71_model_chart.htm
Does a 2 cycle diesel burn fuel and oil like a 2 cycle gas?
No. Fuel and oil are separate here.
Diesel has the lubrication that gasoline doesn't (at least before they cut the sulphur levels for modern fuel) so they don't need to add oil like your 2-cycle trimmer. It will burn oil since it's a diesel and can burn practically any combustible fuel, which is why if the engine runs away on you (uncontrolled acceleration) you need to block the _air_ intake because it will keep running off the oil in the block.
@@danielseelye6005 thanks
Bus Grease Monkey tell you something about those