Just for clarification; the turbocharger cast iron side is the turbine wheel housing, the aluminum casting is the compressor wheel housing. As you noted, the Hot side is cast iron side is the turbine wheel housing and the Cold side is the aluminum compressor wheel housing. The core assembly should not have end to end play and very little play side to side, as the tolerances for the journal bearings inside are very tight. with the amount of play that you have internally to the Turbine Wheel and Shaft through the core and connected to the compressor wheel I am very surprised that the compressor wheel or turbine wheel blades aren't damaged and the housings aren't chewed up. From a retired quality engineer who worked at a turbocharger manufacturing operation.
I really like watching you work on Orwell you take out the time to explain what's going on and that means something. I really hope that this New Channel takes off for you l sure will be watching every time. Awesome video as always
Absolutely and Universal standards is...When something, no matter what it is, is out of warranty, it blows up, breaks, catches fire or your ex takes it with her....Guaranteed...!!!! 😳😳😳🥴🥴🥴😖!!!
I was always told to idle down an engine with a turbo for about 5 minutes before shutting off the engine to keep the oil flowing in the turbo as it shows down to idle. Just a thought.
It's actually to help cool the center section down so that when you do shut it down the bearings and housing aren't hot enough to cook the oil into coke.
If bearings have slack then seals are going to wear out faster than normal. One goes bad, they both do. Lot better off with the new turbo. Great videos, GOD Bless
Well you surely did get some rust preventative added to the frame and other components. Joking aside Steve keep it real and this channel rocks. Great videos and old school is back to being cool.
It is normal for a turbo to have side to side movement. As long as it’s moving in and out or contacting the housing is fine. The oil pressure centers the shaft in the bushing. The leak is likely from a leaking/weeping gasket or small crack in a line.
Oil leaks can be caused by a variety of factors, the main factor being incorrect pressure within the compressor and turbine housings. That being said An oil leak can also occur when engines are running on idle. The pressure within the housings is lower, which in turn can lead to a vacuum being created, causing the oil to leak into the turbine housing. Once the engine starts to run at normal speeds the pressures will be restored and the leaks will stop.
What about the leaking fuel pressure gauge. With the expensive Diesel fuel dripping on the ground, that is eating into your operating profits I would just cap that off until I could get a repair for it.
Your lucky you didn't have a fire from that leaking oil ! It would have burned the Peterbilt to the ground .. Just get a New Turbo not a rebuilt.? Also if you where to reroute the air supply and filter box you might find the new turbo will work better and produce better ? If it can get more air it should sing better that the way it's been in the past . You fresh air supply us being restricted in it's current way. Run it like a Cummins setup ? Where their is a stack coming up behind the cab and going into the air filter. The air will be less heated than it being pulled over that hot engine .. Think about it ? Maybe consider going with a larger turbo or go with a dual compound turbo setup ? That cat engine will scream and you'll get way better performance from that old cat engine !
I don’t think this guy replies to tips folks like you send. I was in trucking biz 40 yrs and operational questions I ask him never get replied to. Some of the things he does he doesnt explain and make no sense to me
@@mikeznel6048 wrong. A small amount of side to side is not bad. It gets taken up with the oil flow. In/ out, will cause the turbines to hit the housings, just as wornout shaft bearings will.
I ahve come to this conclusion, its a cat, they all leak. Mine does it too, just had it in to repair oil leak 2 months ago. Just got ir back and now its leaking somewhere else. Imagine that.
Hard to see with this camera angle but, Looks like the oil drain pipe is leaking. Maybe cracked or a bad gasket or lose bolts. As a turbo rebuilder I have seen many drain and oil feed pipes not seating to the core properly and causing leaks. The turbine shaft will have some play as most turbos have floating bearing and need oil pressure to work correctly. Turbo exhaust housing can run cherry red hot at times and will develop small cracks and this is normal. Only if they start to burn away or warp you will need to replace it. Hope you find the problem, lucky you didn’t have an oil fire with that much oil leaking.
I replaced a center section on a powerstroke once that had cracked and was leaking oil. Did you determine exactly where the oil was coming from on yours? Those oil lines look severely pitted.
they all have play they float on oil there’s nothing wrong with it…Garrett GTA turbocharges are built for boost… i build em all day long that’s a garrett gta 4794 and one is a ported compressor housing … lol i can’t watch anymore 🤣 i made it half way
Do you idle the engine down for a few minutes before you shut it off , or do you just turn it off ? Remember the turbo is still spinning and not getting any oil after the engine is turned off . I have made it a habit of setting the shut down timer for 3 minutes myself . Hay it can't hurt .
I had a Ford Tech Supervisor tell me the same thing when asking him about ways to prevent turbo failure in a 4 cyl Ford turbo engine. Let the turbo idle down before shutting off the engine. The remaining oil bath will not burn up while the engine oil pump is off. Makes sense but you need some patience which most people dont have. Big diesels don’t spin as fast as car engines either.
@@kimmorrison9169 For starters the turbo is spinning around 100,000 rpm gas or diesel . Anyway I was taught this when I was in school for diesel back in the late 1980's . And you are correct about people's lack of patience .
if i can hear that play trough the camera it is definetly not ok. acceptable clearence is something around 0.0005 from side to side, also play along the turbo shaft is not acceptable at all
If it was a line leaking oil it would leak when oil pressure is applied or running . If you notice it pours out more when climbing a hill with a heavy load ? So I would go with bearings and seal.issue. I have a turbo off a 400 Cummins big cam and it doesn't have any play .
Tim Gentry has 2 International cabovers surplus to requirements No engines or transmission or rear ends. One cab is good. I think he has a title to that one. You would need to put a modern cut off on it. (Just a thought)
What Steve is referring to as the cartridge is the center section. It has both turbine blades, shaft, bearings, seals protective metal cover (exhaust side of center) and body. It has an oil inlet and a oil drain hole also. Hope that helps.
I would re-route the fresh air intake system. With all the intake system being right over that hot engine it bound to stop performance... That's why it sounds so weird when spooling up ?
Just for clarification; the turbocharger cast iron side is the turbine wheel housing, the aluminum casting is the compressor wheel housing. As you noted, the Hot side is cast iron side is the turbine wheel housing and the Cold side is the aluminum compressor wheel housing. The core assembly should not have end to end play and very little play side to side, as the tolerances for the journal bearings inside are very tight. with the amount of play that you have internally to the Turbine Wheel and Shaft through the core and connected to the compressor wheel I am very surprised that the compressor wheel or turbine wheel blades aren't damaged and the housings aren't chewed up.
From a retired quality engineer who worked at a turbocharger manufacturing operation.
Hope you get Orwell fixed buddy good to see you an. Orwell good luck
I really like watching you work on Orwell you take out the time to explain what's going on and that means something. I really hope that this New Channel takes off for you l sure will be watching every time. Awesome video as always
Absolutely and Universal standards is...When something, no matter what it is, is out of warranty, it blows up, breaks, catches fire or your ex takes it with her....Guaranteed...!!!! 😳😳😳🥴🥴🥴😖!!!
I was always told to idle down an engine with a turbo for about 5 minutes before shutting off the engine to keep the oil flowing in the turbo as it shows down to idle. Just a thought.
It's actually to help cool the center section down so that when you do shut it down the bearings and housing aren't hot enough to cook the oil into coke.
Hats off to you for keeping 2 channels time frame in sync. Soon to be 3 channels!
Check oil lines
If bearings have slack then seals are going to wear out faster than normal. One goes bad, they both do. Lot better off with the new turbo. Great videos, GOD Bless
If it were the bearings seal it’ll smoke out the exhaust on deceleration
Finally ordered me two shirts woohoo they be headed to Florida. Keep up the awesome videos! This is my favorite RUclips channel!
Well you surely did get some rust preventative added to the frame and other components. Joking aside Steve keep it real and this channel rocks. Great videos and old school is back to being cool.
The bearings went bad .
Your lucky it didn't blow up !
What up FSC Truck Shop
i do hope you figure the problem out with Orwell
It is normal for a turbo to have side to side movement. As long as it’s moving in and out or contacting the housing is fine. The oil pressure centers the shaft in the bushing. The leak is likely from a leaking/weeping gasket or small crack in a line.
This is what I was thinking tho it’s hard to say without it in my hands
dam that sucks you got one hell of leak
Put that V-12 Detroit diesel engine in that Peterbilt !!!
ohhh you tease you! hope the new turbo has ol orwell breathing free again
ain't trucking great, something breaks and warranty expired yesterday, good video, pull toy here
Parts is parts ... unless they aren't... Seems frustrating to get a replacement that doesn't fit. Take care.
White smoke is metal on metal friction with heat and oil
The turbo is suppose to have play in the shaft. It is made that way because of heat expansion. When hot the play will be gone.
i blew a turbo on a Mack once, was pumping oil right out the stack
I've heard good reviews about Blaylock turbos in Kansas. You might call those folks.
The used turbo maybe for an air to air b model...where yours is a water jacketed
The Exxon Valdez made less mess.
What's up
Do yourself a favour and change oil feed and return pipes
Happy truckin'
Oil leaks can be caused by a variety of factors, the main factor being incorrect pressure within the compressor and turbine housings. That being said An oil leak can also occur when engines are running on idle. The pressure within the housings is lower, which in turn can lead to a vacuum being created, causing the oil to leak into the turbine housing. Once the engine starts to run at normal speeds the pressures will be restored and the leaks will stop.
What about the leaking fuel pressure gauge. With the expensive Diesel fuel dripping on the ground, that is eating into your operating profits I would just cap that off until I could get a repair for it.
Seems like it might be a feed tube oring or the other thing is it sounds like a boost leak a little
Hi
How is the oil drain pipe ?? Blocked or restricted .
Replace the turbo and be done.
That is definitely excessive movement on both ends. I suggest buying new turbo since its how you make your living.
You have a self lubrication chassis system. lol
And a googgats turbo giggity!!!!
@@JF-jm3nb "Customer states" !!!!...😂😂😂😂
Your lucky you didn't have a fire from that leaking oil !
It would have burned the Peterbilt to the ground ..
Just get a New Turbo not a rebuilt.?
Also if you where to reroute the air supply and filter box you might find the new turbo will work better and produce better ?
If it can get more air it should sing better that the way it's been in the past .
You fresh air supply us being restricted in it's current way. Run it like a Cummins setup ?
Where their is a stack coming up behind the cab and going into the air filter. The air will be less heated than it being pulled over that hot engine ..
Think about it ?
Maybe consider going with a larger turbo or go with a dual compound turbo setup ? That cat engine will scream and you'll get way better performance from that old cat engine !
It's all about milage
I don’t think this guy replies to tips folks like you send. I was in trucking biz 40 yrs and operational questions I ask him never get replied to. Some of the things he does he doesnt explain and make no sense to me
That small amount of play, is normal. In/ out is not good.
It's actually the opposite. In amd out is OK, up and down is bad.
@@mikeznel6048 wrong. A small amount of side to side is not bad. It gets taken up with the oil flow. In/ out, will cause the turbines to hit the housings, just as wornout shaft bearings will.
That white smoke is the oil burning off on the hot side. Was the gasket for the oil feed damaged?
I ahve come to this conclusion, its a cat, they all leak. Mine does it too, just had it in to repair oil leak 2 months ago. Just got ir back and now its leaking somewhere else.
Imagine that.
Hard to see with this camera angle but, Looks like the oil drain pipe is leaking. Maybe cracked or a bad gasket or lose bolts. As a turbo rebuilder I have seen many drain and oil feed pipes not seating to the core properly and causing leaks. The turbine shaft will have some play as most turbos have floating bearing and need oil pressure to work correctly. Turbo exhaust housing can run cherry red hot at times and will develop small cracks and this is normal. Only if they start to burn away or warp you will need to replace it. Hope you find the problem, lucky you didn’t have an oil fire with that much oil leaking.
I replaced a center section on a powerstroke once that had cracked and was leaking oil. Did you determine exactly where the oil was coming from on yours? Those oil lines look severely pitted.
they all have play they float on oil there’s nothing wrong with it…Garrett GTA turbocharges are built for boost… i build em all day long that’s a garrett gta 4794 and one is a ported compressor housing … lol i can’t watch anymore 🤣 i made it half way
That play should be taken up with oil flow if I remember correctly
Not that much play
@@bigred1247 idk wasn’t any contact marks on the housings
You’re lucky that didn’t ketch fire
i wonder ware oil come from ?
Do you idle the engine down for a few minutes before you shut it off , or do you just turn it off ? Remember the turbo is still spinning and not getting any oil after the engine is turned off . I have made it a habit of setting the shut down timer for 3 minutes myself . Hay it can't hurt .
I had a Ford Tech Supervisor tell me the same thing when asking him about ways to prevent turbo failure in a 4 cyl Ford turbo engine. Let the turbo idle down before shutting off the engine. The remaining oil bath will not burn up while the engine oil pump is off. Makes sense but you need some patience which most people dont have. Big diesels don’t spin as fast as car engines either.
@@kimmorrison9169 For starters the turbo is spinning around 100,000 rpm gas or diesel . Anyway I was taught this when I was in school for diesel back in the late 1980's . And you are correct about people's lack of patience .
if i can hear that play trough the camera it is definetly not ok. acceptable clearence is something around 0.0005 from side to side, also play along the turbo shaft is not acceptable at all
Chances are if it was not cracked it was an o ring failure on the feedline
Made in Mexico says it all.
Pretty sure all reman cat parts are made in Mexico and assembled in the USA 🇺🇸
Quite a stream of black oil flowing down the steel line. Could the line have a crack or pin hole in it?
If it was a line leaking oil it would leak when oil pressure is applied or running . If you notice it pours out more when climbing a hill with a heavy load ? So I would go with bearings and seal.issue.
I have a turbo off a 400 Cummins big cam and it doesn't have any play .
Any jr dragster for sale ?
902
Tim Gentry has 2 International cabovers surplus to requirements No engines or transmission or rear ends. One cab is good. I think he has a title to that one. You would need to put a modern cut off on it. (Just a thought)
Made in mexico, that's the problem right there... What a shame.
Not having much info on turbos can you explain what the cartridge is?
What Steve is referring to as the cartridge is the center section. It has both turbine blades, shaft, bearings, seals protective metal cover (exhaust side of center) and body. It has an oil inlet and a oil drain hole also. Hope that helps.
I would re-route the fresh air intake system.
With all the intake system being right over that hot engine it bound to stop performance...
That's why it sounds so weird when spooling up ?
Made in Mexico, there is where it failed. Assembled in Mexico out of Chineseium crap parts.
The bearings/ seals in the old turbo may just be bad
That would create an internal leak, not an external leak. It's either a cracked housing or leaking feed line or seal or leaking return line.
That sounds likely..... I'm curious to find out exactly what the cause of the issue is....