I would love to know who's the singular person doing a thumbs down on most of my uploads haha, if I'm doing something you don't like it helps to tell me what it is! :D
It's probably someone from stratasys who doesn't want you to show how to get around buying their expensive crap... keep up the good work Angus, you're doing great mate! :)
You might want to look into the analytics section of your channel to see if there is a pattern. Watch Dave Jones' (EEVBlog) Batteriser Batteroo video where he explains that people are buying dislikes to target his videos that expose Batteriser... It just seems odd....
Nice tip! I also discovered this by myself a few weeks ago and it's really useful. I don't use a hot air gun but a Dremel Versatip that can work the same way and it's more precise (5mm diameter output), it's also possible to fill cracks or empty spaces by preheating some pla/abs wire that you put gently in it. Hot air guns are definitely a great tool for 3D printing (and need a little of practice).
This is one of the greatest 3d print channels ever, finally subscribed. Even after 5 years of me 3d printing, you come up with all sorts i never even knew about.
I've been meaning to get a hot air gun for a while (I've used a turbo torch lighter for heat shrinking cables for years, so got away with not using a hot air gun). Went out today to get one. 1st use - tidying up the finish on a 3D print. 2nd use today... drying out a chipboard floor after a pipe in the kitchen started leaking! It's saved the floor! :) They're worth the GBP 20!
Thanks for the tip. I have a hot air reflow and soldering station sitting 2 feet from py printer and never thought to use the hot air gun on a 3d print.
A case study: when I first got my 3D printer (I'm a newbie, go easy on me), I made some mistakes that lead to me snapping the feed tube to the hot end. The fact that the lubrication on the thread for the feed tube was pretty bad already, combined with the fact that I had already printed a calibration cube, meant that the threads for the nozzle and feed tube were both clogged with plastic, and I couldn't free them no matter what I tried. A few weeks later, I have a similar problem. I had not screwed in the feed tube tightly enough into the replacement hotend, and thus had a volcano of molten PLA that trapped the feed tube to the heat block. Same story, couldn't free the parts no matter what I tried. The day before the replacement parts are due to arrive, I look mournfully at the two perfectly good hotends, when I get an idea. Using a heat gun, a vise, and a pair of pliers, I was able to salvage both hot ends, and with a new nozzle and feed tube, I was back in business. Long story short, never underestimate the utility of a heat gun and soldering iron. They can save you time and money if anything goes wrong with the hot parts of your 3D printer.
Nice - a surprisingly informative video. Heat gun, go figure. I'm moving mine from the electrical kit all the way over to the 3D print area as I print more while heat shrinking wire ends less these days.
I've always used a mini blow torch, you have to be quick/careful but does the same thing, basically flame polishing. We do this with wax at work to get a nice shine.
+Maker's Muse Yes best tool. I just got one today for my printing. Best part is it came with attachments for controlling air flow. Something that also was not mentioned on amazon website was it comes with a few metal spatulas that I use for removing prints.
Nice video! I'm planning to get my first 3D printer and I've been researching for atleast 8 hours about different stuff.. Your channel seems quite great for this so thanks xD
I don´t know why, but in 3:48 the added "weee!" is the funniest thing on the internet, I´ve seen quite for a while. Actually this really made my day - if I hadn´t already liked the video / subscribed, I would have after that. Thumbs up for all your really well done and enjoyable videos - I learned a lot and bought a Up! Mini just recently thanks to your recommendation! (Btw: I´m really happy with it, except for a super loud cooling-fan)
+SMY2D Haha I only realised it flew off the table in editing so added that in. Good move on the Up Mini! The cooling fan shouldn't be too loud compared to other printers? You might have gotten a particularly loud one - also the enclosure tends to amplify all the sounds!
+Maker's Muse Yes, simply has been a faulty one, got an exchange fan pretty quick, that did the job :) Btw: I am working on a short unboxing / review video, hope it is okay to link your channel, mentioned you as an inspiration in the video as well :)
This is awesome! I always print with PLA and find that the cobwebs are always a hassle, especially since my printer doesn't support retraction. I'll definitely buy one of these
Maker's Muse My phoenix 3D printer came with a pre-made operating program (a clone of repetier) It doesn't support retraction. If I were to switch software, it would be a very long process as the wiring is quite mangled. There would be hours of changes in the firmware. I guess I'm too busy with completing my new printer, which by the way, is going very well. I'll update you when its done!
+101pokemasters Looking forward to it! And yeah, that sucks. The Flashforge Flashprint software doesn't (well didn't last I checked) have retraction either...
I've tried a similar technique where i was trying to get a PLA part some more gloss and ran my butane torch across the part and while it did bring a permanent shine to that test area, it quickly began to shrink. so that's a neigh on a butane torch/naked flame, even quickly. A side note about the heat gun, the same technique goes for the raw plastics on your car/suv/bike. When they turn faded, dont bother with back to black or armor all, just nail them quickly with the heat gun being careful not to over do it. do this evenly across your rear bumper step pads or factory flares or even door mouldings (as long as they are not painted), they'll be looking like new in no time!
I have got into building heat chambers for all my printers and I use a glass window door for all of them. I source the glass from photo frames and print the frames and hinges using magnets to lock it all into place. I have also found that using perforated aluminum as my bed plate allows for less heat warping at the base.
Has anyone ever tried freezing a thicker PLA part. Then using the heat-gun to melt the surface beyond the normal quick swipe? Maybe having a cold core temperature will prevent warping the entire model.
Really enjoying your videos - they are *super* helpful and I wish I'd found this 101 playlist sooner. Just one thing - despite being a native English speaker, I find your delivery just a little bit to quick, both in terms of speaking and overall pace. This is particularly an issue when introducing jargon. It's better with the captions switched on, although because they are auto-generated, they aren't always correct either. Anyways, please keep up the great work! Cheers!
Excellents tips with the heat gun MakerMuse. Anothers tips if you want insert a metallic part, just heated up and put it in the printed part. Other, if you are using abs juice for paste various parts and you are with little time, just use the heated gun in the zone and dry all the solvent used for paste more fast. Regards.
+Jose Rafael Peña Gholam Nice! I hadn't thought about heating up metal inserts, but it makes sense. I have tried to speed up ABS juice before with the heat gun but found it bubbled, so I may have been too aggressive.
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products NiceTip! I've always struggled to find threaded inserts in Australia sadly - would love to use them more in 3D Printed Projects.
If you want to spend a bit more $$$, you can also buy a hot air rework station for desoldering circuit boards, and then you have a set point temp. The LRT 858D is about $48 and has a range from 100c to 450c. It comes with different nozzles too. For prints imo this is a vastly superior option to a heat gun because you can precisely pick the specd print temps that the manufacturer uses.
i'm tempted to try out a hot air soldering station for more fine work on my 3d prints, while they don't cover the same area as a heat gun i think they are more versatile in the way that you can control what part of the print you heat up and allow for all sorts of crazy stuff. also there is the temperature control which can go from 100 to 450c (atleast on the model i'm thinking about )
You can just don't use any nozzle and it'll have basically the same area. And a lot of hot air guns do also have temperature control. Either just high, medium and low or actual precise settings for temperature and the speed of the fan.
TileScape DUNGEONS is now on Kickstarter!!! Its a 3d printable modular tile system, those here would be very interested as the stretch goals are very generous, huge bang for the buck.
Thank you. I'm rebuilding a laptop housing that has the screws' anchors destroyed and I'm looking for a way to use petg to melt it and make it like new again.
What temperature would you need to finish off that "white stuff" after removing the rafting on ABS? I just purchased a heat gun and looking to give my bottom a more finished look.
I just use hot water ! I put it on a bowl or a plate depending of the piece's shape and then I pick the piece up and bend it as needed. Cheap and simple.
My workshop is so cold that the printer throws an error code and stops working if I try to preheat (if it senses bed or hotend temperature below 5° it assumes there is a fault). Using a hot air gun I can raise the temperatures just high enough so that the built in heaters take over
Call me crazy, but would a few blasts from a hot air gun also be useful for removing PLA buildup? I've been fighting with the printers at my work lately, and we thought we had one fixed, but then when I went to run a test print, PLA oozed out all the wrong areas (after properly extruding upon loading >_< ). Took it apart when I saw some loose bits that should have been tightened down, and rather than having to reassemble to heat the hot end only to have to disassemble and start over when it doesn't work, I'd rather find an easier method. I'm researching using a soldering iron on it now, but this looks like it might be even better? PS - I'm still learning the technology... I've used 3D printers for about a year and a half at least now, but I am now the one in charge of maintenance, and have been delving deeper into the hardware than ever before in the past couple months.
Thanks for sharing this great tip with us! Do you have any experience with the wanhao 4x? I am currently not shure wether to buy the flashforge creator pro or the wanhao 4x.
+MasterMatt The Creator Pro has a metal frame while the 4X seems to be plastic or that weird foamboard the Replicator 2X was made from. Both are pretty much clones of the 2X - a fairly old design now. I would go with the Creator Pro based on the Metal frame.
+MasterMatt I've reviewed quite a few machines that might be suitable - really depends what you're chasing. Big print volume, ABS prints, dual heads? Also what the use is - for learning where fixing the machine is OK or a classroom environment where you want 100% reliability.
+zero00tolerance I ran 3 successful robot combat events which were funded via crowdfunding - they were organised through pozible not kickstarter, because at the time Kickstarter wasn't open to Australians! They were only babies compared to some projects but still teach you a lot about logistics, perk fulfillment and keeping up on your deadlines. Searching Robowars on Pozible's site should find them.
AAaa cheers, I'll try that out then, I always get that white tinge after I paint it over with acetone but had always though that's because I was just painting the acetone on instead of giving it a vapor bath
Didn't work haha maybe I just buy really crap ABS but meh, it works for what I need it for. And slow xD I made claws and teeth though! Oooo AAaaa and can edit other models a tiny bit.
It's from Sainsmart.com so Sainsmart brand I guess. Was the cheapest for buying and shipping to NZ that works well with my printer. I'll look into these other two though, I did watch your reviews on them just hadn't got around to buying/trying them out.
Hi Angus.I'm new to this 3d printing. I have a Formbot t-rex printer & I also bought simplify3d software. I'm having a lot of trouble getting the settings right. The first layer is very hairy looks like a raft looks like it should be taken off of the model like a raft but is hard to do. Can you help with this problem? Thanks.Ed.
Do not heat an acetone smoothed print before ALL of the acetone is evaporated. This usually takes 4 hours for most prints. If you do not, the acetone will boil under the plastic and nasty hard to remove bubbles will appear on the surface.
Thanks for the video! There are a lot of filaments out there! Which abs or pla filament are you using? Can you recomend me one fore the flashforge creator pro? I thought about Verbatim filament.
+Julia Eygeris Unfortunately it would soften and deform long before becoming watertight. I would use an epoxy coating like xtc-3D to make the part watertight instead.
+DutchBrony Damn right! Already working on it. twitter.com/makersmuse/status/669454266772422656 EDIT: Haha, totally misread your comment dude. Yeah - it's pretty hard balancing the time :)
+Noah Saxenian Hi Noah - it's worth a try, I've used one for heat-shrink and other hot gun things. One trick is to make a tapered nozzle (I used cardboard for it) for the hair dryer that concentrates the hot air onto the target - not too small though or the nozzle might cook!
Maker's Muse Acrylic and pla parts. Didn't point the gun at the printer directly, but one of the printed parts on the opposite side of the bed. Lesson learned.
I would love to know who's the singular person doing a thumbs down on most of my uploads haha, if I'm doing something you don't like it helps to tell me what it is! :D
+Maker's Muse Holy cow, I get a thumbs down on nearly every one of mine as well!
Hi Angus do you have Skype or steam so we can talk more regerly
It's probably someone from stratasys who doesn't want you to show how to get around buying their expensive crap... keep up the good work Angus, you're doing great mate! :)
+THEME PARK ATTRACTION Haha! Probably true :) Cheers dude!
You might want to look into the analytics section of your channel to see if there is a pattern. Watch Dave Jones' (EEVBlog) Batteriser Batteroo video where he explains that people are buying dislikes to target his videos that expose Batteriser... It just seems odd....
Nice tip!
I also discovered this by myself a few weeks ago and it's really useful.
I don't use a hot air gun but a Dremel Versatip that can work the same way and it's more precise (5mm diameter output), it's also possible to fill cracks or empty spaces by preheating some pla/abs wire that you put gently in it.
Hot air guns are definitely a great tool for 3D printing (and need a little of practice).
This is one of the greatest 3d print channels ever, finally subscribed. Even after 5 years of me 3d printing, you come up with all sorts i never even knew about.
I've been meaning to get a hot air gun for a while (I've used a turbo torch lighter for heat shrinking cables for years, so got away with not using a hot air gun). Went out today to get one. 1st use - tidying up the finish on a 3D print. 2nd use today... drying out a chipboard floor after a pipe in the kitchen started leaking! It's saved the floor! :) They're worth the GBP 20!
Thanks for the tip. I have a hot air reflow and soldering station sitting 2 feet from py printer and never thought to use the hot air gun on a 3d print.
A case study: when I first got my 3D printer (I'm a newbie, go easy on me), I made some mistakes that lead to me snapping the feed tube to the hot end. The fact that the lubrication on the thread for the feed tube was pretty bad already, combined with the fact that I had already printed a calibration cube, meant that the threads for the nozzle and feed tube were both clogged with plastic, and I couldn't free them no matter what I tried.
A few weeks later, I have a similar problem. I had not screwed in the feed tube tightly enough into the replacement hotend, and thus had a volcano of molten PLA that trapped the feed tube to the heat block. Same story, couldn't free the parts no matter what I tried.
The day before the replacement parts are due to arrive, I look mournfully at the two perfectly good hotends, when I get an idea. Using a heat gun, a vise, and a pair of pliers, I was able to salvage both hot ends, and with a new nozzle and feed tube, I was back in business.
Long story short, never underestimate the utility of a heat gun and soldering iron. They can save you time and money if anything goes wrong with the hot parts of your 3D printer.
Nice - a surprisingly informative video. Heat gun, go figure. I'm moving mine from the electrical kit all the way over to the 3D print area as I print more while heat shrinking wire ends less these days.
I've always used a mini blow torch, you have to be quick/careful but does the same thing, basically flame polishing. We do this with wax at work to get a nice shine.
My heat gun has rescued printed parts many times. MANY TIMES.
+3D Printing Nerd Best tool ever! :D
+Maker's Muse Yes best tool. I just got one today for my printing. Best part is it came with attachments for controlling air flow. Something that also was not mentioned on amazon website was it comes with a few metal spatulas that I use for removing prints.
Nice video! I'm planning to get my first 3D printer and I've been researching for atleast 8 hours about different stuff.. Your channel seems quite great for this so thanks xD
I WAS WONDERING A TRICK TO GET RID OF THE WHITE FROM VAPOR SMOOTHING! YAY!!!!!!! I just happen to own a heat gun too! THX THX!!!
Thumb gained for the "Weeeee!"
+Edvin Söderman It went for a magical journey
i'm so glad you wrote that cos I missed it :3 Now I am happy too
I don´t know why, but in 3:48 the added "weee!" is the funniest thing on the internet, I´ve seen quite for a while. Actually this really made my day - if I hadn´t already liked the video / subscribed, I would have after that.
Thumbs up for all your really well done and enjoyable videos - I learned a lot and bought a Up! Mini just recently thanks to your recommendation!
(Btw: I´m really happy with it, except for a super loud cooling-fan)
+SMY2D Haha I only realised it flew off the table in editing so added that in. Good move on the Up Mini! The cooling fan shouldn't be too loud compared to other printers? You might have gotten a particularly loud one - also the enclosure tends to amplify all the sounds!
+Maker's Muse
Yes, simply has been a faulty one, got an exchange fan pretty quick, that did the job :)
Btw: I am working on a short unboxing / review video, hope it is okay to link your channel, mentioned you as an inspiration in the video as well :)
This is awesome! I always print with PLA and find that the cobwebs are always a hassle, especially since my printer doesn't support retraction. I'll definitely buy one of these
+101pokemasters Sweet! What printer is that that doesn't support retraction :(?
Maker's Muse My phoenix 3D printer came with a pre-made operating program (a clone of repetier) It doesn't support retraction. If I were to switch software, it would be a very long process as the wiring is quite mangled. There would be hours of changes in the firmware.
I guess I'm too busy with completing my new printer, which by the way, is going very well. I'll update you when its done!
+101pokemasters Looking forward to it! And yeah, that sucks. The Flashforge Flashprint software doesn't (well didn't last I checked) have retraction either...
I've tried a similar technique where i was trying to get a PLA part some more gloss and ran my butane torch across the part and while it did bring a permanent shine to that test area, it quickly began to shrink. so that's a neigh on a butane torch/naked flame, even quickly.
A side note about the heat gun, the same technique goes for the raw plastics on your car/suv/bike. When they turn faded, dont bother with back to black or armor all, just nail them quickly with the heat gun being careful not to over do it. do this evenly across your rear bumper step pads or factory flares or even door mouldings (as long as they are not painted), they'll be looking like new in no time!
I have got into building heat chambers for all my printers and I use a glass window door for all of them. I source the glass from photo frames and print the frames and hinges using magnets to lock it all into place. I have also found that using perforated aluminum as my bed plate allows for less heat warping at the base.
Pretty cool. Thanks for video!
Ive used my soldering iron to the same effect (holding it close to the print :P) but i'm gonna go pick up a hot air gun this weekend :D
Has anyone ever tried freezing a thicker PLA part. Then using the heat-gun to melt the surface beyond the normal quick swipe? Maybe having a cold core temperature will prevent warping the entire model.
That sounds like it might have potential! I need to get a heat gun soon - I'll try it when I do.
Really enjoying your videos - they are *super* helpful and I wish I'd found this 101 playlist sooner.
Just one thing - despite being a native English speaker, I find your delivery just a little bit to quick, both in terms of speaking and overall pace. This is particularly an issue when introducing jargon. It's better with the captions switched on, although because they are auto-generated, they aren't always correct either.
Anyways, please keep up the great work! Cheers!
You got a thumbs up the moment I saw the Ryobi. :D But I would have thumbed up any ways by the end. Great video.
Excellents tips with the heat gun MakerMuse. Anothers tips if you want insert a metallic part, just heated up and put it in the printed part. Other, if you are using abs juice for paste various parts and you are with little time, just use the heated gun in the zone and dry all the solvent used for paste more fast. Regards.
+Jose Rafael Peña Gholam Nice! I hadn't thought about heating up metal inserts, but it makes sense. I have tried to speed up ABS juice before with the heat gun but found it bubbled, so I may have been too aggressive.
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products NiceTip! I've always struggled to find threaded inserts in Australia sadly - would love to use them more in 3D Printed Projects.
If you want to spend a bit more $$$, you can also buy a hot air rework station for desoldering circuit boards, and then you have a set point temp. The LRT 858D is about $48 and has a range from 100c to 450c. It comes with different nozzles too. For prints imo this is a vastly superior option to a heat gun because you can precisely pick the specd print temps that the manufacturer uses.
awesome!!!! especially the aceton vapour. had this problem! also noticed if you let the aceton dry slowly it doesnt get white
Awesome man ill definitely go and get one ASAP
Soldering hot air Station has temperature control and air flow control with different nozzles
i'm tempted to try out a hot air soldering station for more fine work on my 3d prints, while they don't cover the same area as a heat gun i think they are more versatile in the way that you can control what part of the print you heat up and allow for all sorts of crazy stuff. also there is the temperature control which can go from 100 to 450c (atleast on the model i'm thinking about )
You can just don't use any nozzle and it'll have basically the same area.
And a lot of hot air guns do also have temperature control. Either just high, medium and low or actual precise settings for temperature and the speed of the fan.
Ha! I had this really strong hunch my heat gun would work, tore up half my house looking for it... worth it.
TileScape DUNGEONS is now on Kickstarter!!! Its a 3d printable modular tile system, those here would be very interested as the stretch goals are very generous, huge bang for the buck.
Better still, get a hot air soldering tool, these are fairly cheap from you-know-where, and they provide temperature (and air flow) control. Simples!
Are you threatening me with that heat gun? LOL Joking.... Noice video!
great practical tips!
Thank you. I'm rebuilding a laptop housing that has the screws' anchors destroyed and I'm looking for a way to use petg to melt it and make it like new again.
What temperature would you need to finish off that "white stuff" after removing the rafting on ABS? I just purchased a heat gun and looking to give my bottom a more finished look.
I =never thought about that. I guess I have another use for my heat gun other than using it on warbler and EVA foam.
I just use hot water ! I put it on a bowl or a plate depending of the piece's shape and then I pick the piece up and bend it as needed. Cheap and simple.
My workshop is so cold that the printer throws an error code and stops working if I try to preheat (if it senses bed or hotend temperature below 5° it assumes there is a fault). Using a hot air gun I can raise the temperatures just high enough so that the built in heaters take over
Call me crazy, but would a few blasts from a hot air gun also be useful for removing PLA buildup? I've been fighting with the printers at my work lately, and we thought we had one fixed, but then when I went to run a test print, PLA oozed out all the wrong areas (after properly extruding upon loading >_< ). Took it apart when I saw some loose bits that should have been tightened down, and rather than having to reassemble to heat the hot end only to have to disassemble and start over when it doesn't work, I'd rather find an easier method. I'm researching using a soldering iron on it now, but this looks like it might be even better?
PS - I'm still learning the technology... I've used 3D printers for about a year and a half at least now, but I am now the one in charge of maintenance, and have been delving deeper into the hardware than ever before in the past couple months.
im thinking of using heated lamps for my 3d printing what do you guys think?
Good work...... just subscribed
Thanks for sharing this great tip with us!
Do you have any experience with the wanhao 4x? I am currently not shure wether to buy the flashforge creator pro or the wanhao 4x.
+MasterMatt The Creator Pro has a metal frame while the 4X seems to be plastic or that weird foamboard the Replicator 2X was made from. Both are pretty much clones of the 2X - a fairly old design now. I would go with the Creator Pro based on the Metal frame.
+Maker's Muse so can you recomend me any other printer in the simular priceclass?
+MasterMatt I've reviewed quite a few machines that might be suitable - really depends what you're chasing. Big print volume, ABS prints, dual heads? Also what the use is - for learning where fixing the machine is OK or a classroom environment where you want 100% reliability.
I couldn't help notice a pip boy crate in the background, does that mean no more videos for a month :)
+baddi02 Haha heck no! I can game and make videos. :D
Could the heat gun also be used to melt scrap PLA into a mould? Provided of course the mould can withstand the temperature.
That Fallout 4 collector's edition plastic box XD
Hi Angus just wondering you mentioned about kickstarter how you were successful on some of the projects may I ask what was it ? thanks
+zero00tolerance I ran 3 successful robot combat events which were funded via crowdfunding - they were organised through pozible not kickstarter, because at the time Kickstarter wasn't open to Australians! They were only babies compared to some projects but still teach you a lot about logistics, perk fulfillment and keeping up on your deadlines. Searching Robowars on Pozible's site should find them.
people really thought the "weeee!" was hilarious lol
AAaa cheers, I'll try that out then, I always get that white tinge after I paint it over with acetone but had always though that's because I was just painting the acetone on instead of giving it a vapor bath
+Sparky ! You should give it a go! How's your 3D Modelling skills progressing :D?
Didn't work haha maybe I just buy really crap ABS but meh, it works for what I need it for.
And slow xD I made claws and teeth though! Oooo AAaaa and can edit other models a tiny bit.
Haha! What brand ABS is it? Try ESun for cheap stuff, or Verbatim is pretty good quality!
It's from Sainsmart.com so Sainsmart brand I guess. Was the cheapest for buying and shipping to NZ that works well with my printer. I'll look into these other two though, I did watch your reviews on them just hadn't got around to buying/trying them out.
Hi Angus.I'm new to this 3d printing. I have a Formbot t-rex printer & I also bought simplify3d software. I'm having a lot of trouble getting the settings right. The first layer is very hairy looks like a raft looks like it should be taken off of the model like a raft but is hard to do. Can you help with this problem? Thanks.Ed.
Could it be useful for helping to smooth PLA prints? Couple of short blasts to "knock down" the printing ridge lines prior to sanding?
I would like to know as well
What temperatures are you using to get rid of stringing on pla
Neat!
Do not heat an acetone smoothed print before ALL of the acetone is evaporated. This usually takes 4 hours for most prints. If you do not, the acetone will boil under the plastic and nasty hard to remove bubbles will appear on the surface.
Thanks for the video!
There are a lot of filaments out there!
Which abs or pla filament are you using?
Can you recomend me one fore the flashforge creator pro?
I thought about Verbatim filament.
+MasterMatt Yep I use Verbatim all the time on the Flashforge Dreamer - it's great quality and the White PLA is a snow white, best I've ever found!
Does the heat gun also bring back color to sanded abs parts?
+Eric Hamm It can but you need to get it to quite a fine grit finish, and you need a lot of heat so often you risk damaging the print.
Is it useful in 2024?
wait what could I be doing wrong? it just turns a little rough. Is it not high enough?
Can you smooth a part with one of these?
Nope, it'd melt it.
Would it help to seal PLA surface with hot gun to make a model watertight? something like a small pot
+Julia Eygeris Unfortunately it would soften and deform long before becoming watertight. I would use an epoxy coating like xtc-3D to make the part watertight instead.
Can we use hair dryer instead? Thanks.
Everybody should have a hot air gun regardless of whether they 3d print or not.
How do you have time to make video's with Fallout 4 in your collection
+DutchBrony Damn right! Already working on it. twitter.com/makersmuse/status/669454266772422656 EDIT: Haha, totally misread your comment dude. Yeah - it's pretty hard balancing the time :)
+Maker's Muse Yeah sorry English grammar, my nemesis. but that junk jet would be an awesome print. don't forget to also print a teddy bear ;)
could you use a hair/blowdryer instead or is it not hot enough
+Noah Saxenian
Hi Noah - it's worth a try, I've used one for heat-shrink and other hot gun things. One trick is to make a tapered nozzle (I used cardboard for it) for the hair dryer that concentrates the hot air onto the target - not too small though or the nozzle might cook!
When you had a heat gun the whole time and didn't realize how useful it would've been...
Would a blowdryer work?
+Modern Gaming It doesn't get hot enough, you could warm your print chamber with it but nothing else suggested in the video - need more heat!
Maker's Muse Ok Thanks!
Tried using a hot air gun before on pla but I wasn't going fast and ended up deforming part of my printer.
If your printer is made from acrylic I wouldn't go near it with a hot air gun!
Maker's Muse Acrylic and pla parts. Didn't point the gun at the printer directly, but one of the printed parts on the opposite side of the bed. Lesson learned.
what weapon is that :o
+someoneonlylol Auto Axe from the Pitt DLC! :D
Imperial brrrrrup or metric brrrrup?
What is retraction? I'm hearing this word a lot in printer reviews but know nothing about their meaning
+Josh Aha I see. thanks alot for the explanation
+Josh Well said!
1:11
CLICK
Do you live in an igloo?
has anyone tried Annealing with hot air gun?
I was just staring at the mic levels...
Thanks, this comment made everything except the mic level invisible to me.
can u use a hair dryer?
Don't watch a show while you're doing it also, I melted a part and the tip of Charizards tail came off lmaoo now I gotta pay for another print.
@3:47 LOL
Looks like you could just use a blow dryer
+Ghost Emblem Hair Dryer's don't get hot enough - they're designed not to burn your scalp. A hot air gun can melt solder...!
Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Aussie?
How much does the ammo cost? Jk jk😂
2c per minute ;)
I don get they buy a expensive printer to waist it's capabilities making stupid figurines instead useful items
+Peter Ruiz The "stupid figurines" are great for diagnosis and tuning.
Be quiet Peter Ruiz. You probably don't have one, so dont dislike.