Klein Tools MC Cutter - geni.us/7RlXvkG Wire Connector Locknut Wrench - geni.us/Wzm2Wtr MC Plastic Bushings (35 pack) - geni.us/1YnxS9 3/8" MC Saddle Connector -geni.us/8eBm Knipex Cobra Pliers (10 inch) - geni.us/bs2yDc Knipex Cobra Pliers (5 inch) - geni.us/B2tuF Cut Resistant Gloves (2-Pack) - geni.us/pfyBads DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Industrial electrician. We often do the old bend, pop and snip to strip the jacket. Fast, accurate enough, can be done with limited available space and you can do it easily while standing on a ladder and/or dealing with already ran overhead cable. A roto split is a great way to go, anything assembled on the ground gets that treatment. BX connectors are built more solid than the Romex ones, you can grab the connector with a set of channellocks and turn the connector itself to tighten instead of messing around with the nut. Also to make sure the little "flag" on the redhead comes through the hole in the connector for fast confirmation during inspection.
@@dirtyrotten2648: Tin snips are overkill for MC. Diagonal cutters work better. Plus a diagonal cut leaves an obtuse angle which is less sharp than a 90° crosscut.
@@chuckholmes2075Tool belt weight... tool cost _(electrical tools can quickly nickel and dime you to death)..._ how often you use MC in your work _(if your residential, probably not that often, there is a state that mandates MC in residential, I think it's Illinois if I'm not mistaken, but otherwise...)..._ there's lots of reasons many sparkies choose not to get MC cutters, usually it's a combination of factors. Also, the bend-twist-snip technique can be done relatively quickly with only gloves and diags... I'm 5'7" a buck-fourty soaking wet... not a big guy and I can do it with gloves no pliers needed... so trust me ★most★ any electrician can learn to do it with one tool we all already carry ( maybe not but I've never seen an electrician without diagonal cutters)... For my light frame, belt weight is a serious consideration... I'm not try'n to carry my weighg in tools. Could it stay in the truck till I need it? Sure but then is it worth it when I can do it in the time it would take me to go get the tool and come back?... I also never worry about cutting my conductors as it's not hard to be careful enough to not have to worry about that, so there's also that... I'm just say'n it does't always make sense for everyones work flow. To answer your question in spite of the lacking question mark, that is.
I recommend that when you insert the red bushing you align the pointy part (it has a pin like pointer) with the rough side of the BX cable cut. This will result in a better protection of the wires from that sharper cut side. Some BX cables also have a thin flexible Galvanized wire. I wrap this wire about three turns around the outside of the bx jacket in the same direction as the grooves. This will ensure that the red bushing stays in place during handling of the installation. Thank you for a great video.
7:00 I didn't like the way the last one had the sharp claw-like edge of the cable right in the split of the bushing - worst possible scenario ! I like to trim that claw too
@@jefffree6990 Yes, what we see at 7:00 is a poster child for doing this right, with orientation and/or trimming. That's the illustration of what to avoid.
I bought that MC cutter tool along time ago, had to do a few mc connections. It is easy to use and once bought, saves time and will last a DIY homeowner a lifetime.
I've been using the old MC cutter forever. It hangs nicely on one of my tool belt bags and makes it clean and easy when installing whips while on a ladder. I hate wearing gloves when I work on electrical (and pretty much everything), and that tool is the right tool for the job.
I prefer the first method of cutting/stripping the MC cable. That method seems more productive for real job site work. Thank You and keep up the good videos. Have A Wok-Safe Day! 👷🚜🚧
Great video. At 7:04 in the video, you really need to turn around the red bushing (aka Red Head) with the molded lip portion of the red bushing covering the sharp raw edge of the cut piece of spiral metal to protect the conductors inside. Right now, the open end red bushing is not protecting the conductors and therefore the sharp edge of the spiral metal can easily cut into the wires. I have seen too many BX/MC cable installations where the installer forgot to use the red bushing and this is a big NO NO causing potential electrical problems in the future and immediate failure of the electrical inspection.
Yeah there's still that sharp corner there that the bushing is supposed to cover. Also, almost unbelievably, it's supposedly not required to use those red bushings on type MC. Only the old AC requires it. But I say one absolutely should use those bushings without exception.
If you feel the red bushing was installed the wrong way, then what is the correct way? Please be advised that Scott installed the red bushing the correct way. @@mofbombay6290
I used the hacksaw until one day an older electrician gave me the special tool. It saves so much time and keeps you from slipping with the hacksaw and injuring yourself. The tool is very cheap compared to your time and if it saves you from injury it keeps you on the job more.
I learned the hacksaw cut way back in 1966. The only difference I learned was to make your cut then just crack the bx by bending away from the cut (no reverse twisting); worked like a charm (remembering the shop teacher to never, never forget to install the anti-shock bushing).
I have seen them installed but never being installed. Well explained and definitely the third method is the cleanest but if you are a professional. Thank you for sharing
I got the Klein tool and I love how quick and easy it is to use. I also got the connectors that snap into the junction box and grab the cable end when you push it in.
As an electrician I usually snap and cut mc cable with diagonal cutters. Bx though either rotosplit or bend and snap any cut with tin snips. Hacksaw only for larger metal clad wire. Although it is required to use an anti short bushing with steel ac bx, mc cable does not require an anti short bushing. And for all the hate that guys will throw at that comment, please refer to nema bulletin 90 for clarification. I do enjoy watching your content and thought you always are looking for information.
I really learned something here, as I do from all of your videos. I was an aircraft electrician so I’ve never worked with this stuff. Just the occasional romex and outlet in my own house.
I always use 2 of the red bushings so the gap in the first bushing is covered up with the second bushing. One gap at 12 o'clock and one gap at 6 o'clock. It fully protects the wires.
Hi There, i have saw you're different methods of unwrapping the BX cables although i noticed that you did 'nt mention that the red bushing has to have the opening slot in such way to be at the opposite side of the cutting edge of the bx cable... But you're explanations are well done. 👍
Hi. I've never had to use MC but I never would have thought that those angled cuts were the right thing. I would have guessed a 90* cut was correct. Just shows how there's reasons trained professionals are professionals.
Very helpful video thank you. Why not use an EMT conduit pipe cutter instead of the MC cutter? Seems like they work almost the same. Also can use the conduit cutter for cutting plumbing pipes.
I used the tool in step 3 when installing cabinet lighting in the kitchen. Getting the wheel to cut sometimes is tricky depending on the bend of the cable. The biggest issue I had with MC is having the wires pull out and the not having enough wire on the other end. I know it's from inexperience, but something that got me a few times.
We are adding a light fixture above our kitchen sink where the wire will be pretty much behind the drywall due to a header that is above the window over the sink. The electrical box we are connecting to is the switch to the disposal and is already there, we would prefer using this box since it is already fastened to the wall (old wood lath), to avoid complicating things. But the box is the one in blue plastic. Is it ok to run this metal jacket wire into a plastic box? We also question how to fasten it once in the box since this type of box is not made to accept a connector with a ring. W e are sort of stuck... Thanks for the great videos, we trust your work and normally look inside your channel first before looking elsewhere.
Thankfully I've only had to use bx once, and it was a short run (~3ft). I pulled the conductors right out, cut all the way through the steel with a hacksaw to length, then slid the conductors back in. Super convenient and easy way to trim shorter runs.
True, but a common enough use case here is breaker panels that don't support combination AFCI breakers, so to meet code you have to run armored cable to a box with an AFCI outlet in it. So only 1-2ft necessary. One of the more common use cases for casual home owners to need bx.
I use a hacksaw. If I don't have a vise handy you just put the end of the MC on the ground and step on it. Pull it tight with your left hand and saw at an angle with your right hand. That is how it was done back in the day without any fancy roto split tool.
My blood pressure went up when you used 2 channel locks but it absolutely spiked when you brought out that goofy mini hack. Just bend it into a 90, rotate it backwards to open, then snip the shit. You can use your sharp cut edge to break the plastic wrap on the inside. No homeowner should ever even touch this shit, bush less cause a short with a hacksaw lol
I like the roto-split tool as it gives clean cuts as long as the blade is sharp and the tool is adjusted properly for depth of cut. Seatek has been bought out by Southwire and the Klein Tools splitter used in the video seems to be a copy of the Seatek tool that I have.
Thanks! perhaps you could do a vid on all things MC-. Can I run MC to a PVC junction box? or does it have to be metal. If it has to bee metal, isn't there something important that I need to know about th grounding?
I bought one years ago and I believe that is the best option as well. Using side cutters can cause damage to the cutters themselves....Which I had happened to me. Most wire cutters are not made for steel. Luckily for me I only cut MC cable with it two times to realize it was leaving notches on the blades of the cutters. But it didn't permanently damage the cutters. Thank goodness. Got myself a roto-split tool after that.
When installed, make sure the 'red rocket' (bushing) is visible from within the box. Inspector doesn't want to have to dig to see it. #3 all the way for me - another reason you're less likely to damage a conductor is that the blade runs parallel to them, so it would tend to slip between instead of trying to chop them off.
By code MC cable can be run exposed the outer jacket is the protection but you need to strap it 12” from every connection point and every 4’ to 6’ after now that being said the stuff is by no means indestructible if you are putting it in a place where it could be exposed to heavy impact it’s not ok to use MC like say a garage where if it was exposed and you could hit it with a car or hammer in situations like that you can’t use it areas like that you need to be over 8’ high before you run it below 8’ you would need conduit. Hopefully that answers you.
Fun fact: The NEC does not require anti-short bushings for MC cable, only AC/BX cables. Also, when using a hacksaw you do not need to cut all the way through the aluminum jacket. You only need to score it with the blade. It takes a few times until you get the hang of it but it is quick and easy. I carry a pocket hacksaw for this purpose.
There are also romex like connectors which do not have a full round hole rather the hole towards the box has a semi rectangular shape but they do have the standard two screw clamp for the casing like romex metal connectors. The hole shape prevents the metal cladding from slipping out of the connector into the box.
I was optimistic and motivated in 2023 and purchased a Klein MC tool. No idea how to use it, so this video helped me understand. So maybe if I get a burst of energy and a psychiatric episode of delusion, I can try and tackle a project that I've wanted to do since moving in here. The people that lived here before me just had a strange love or fetish for J boxes, or so it seems. They're everywhere, even in places they're not supposed to be. In one instance a finished room in the corner of the basement had a junction box in the rafters, that is covered by a plastered ceiling. That ceiling is totally plastered. It needs to come down. The idiot before me put up one of those damn stupid, LED fixtures, and he didn't use a J box for those, for some reason. He just drilled a hole in the ceiling, ran the wire through and screwed the whole fixture directly to the ceiling. Several feet, there is a junction box in the rafters with a wire (No ground and asbestos insulation) running from the bedchamber upstairs, into that box, then back out of that box over to another Junction box (Hex or Octagon) on the rafter with an outlet plate over it, and a clamp on the other side. NO GFCI protection fed from an outlet upstairs, going through a concealed box. But anyway. I want to redo the furnace wire (and what I just described here) to run directly from the switch, as it is now, and directly into the fuse box (breakers) instead of into a junction box, then into the panel. It makes no sense how this house is wired. I wanted a rewire but the electric guy I hired talked me out of it and just said to put GFCIS in lieu of a grounded circuit. Looking back, I think they didn't want to handle the asbestos. But it's got to go, so I have to do it myself. And when one is crippled and has tumors and health problems and lack of money to have another bid for a rewire with another company, because the first company was afraid to do it, and I get it... But it is still not done. And it's impossible for me to do. But at least I know how to do what I need to do and I have the stuff I need to do it, after I buy more stuff, and now have the tools and knowledge how to use them. If lying in the bed wasn't painful, I wouldn't even bother getting out of the bed. There is just no point to anything, anymore.
“We don’t need no stinking special tool!” ( humor here!) I just grab the cable with both hands close together and bend it sharply until it pops open, twist it a half turn clockwise creating a loop in the sheathing and snip with side cutters. Very easy with the aluminum jacket. Back when it was called BX and steel it was a little tougher!
i run alot of MC especially big stuff like aluminum 500 mcm 3 conductor with ground . yes it comes that large . that stuff is about the diameter of your arm . i use a zipwheel on an angle grinder to just cut through the aluminum armor . then use a big red bushing.
Was Wiring Town Houses way back when. It was illegal to run Romex in an Attic Space. Bought two BX Roto Tools, second one was half price. Found an odd tool thrown in the bag, it was a Romex Stripper. Master Electricians made fun of me. That’s until one of them ran a Hacksaw all the way into their leg muscle. Week later everyone had them. Still have my originals from then.
Always use a roto split then cut the end at a 45 degree angle then install red anti short bushings. In my area you have not been allowed to use flimsy AC ( BC ,cable with the #18 Guage extra flimsy bare ground wire ) since the 1980's in any commercial work. Have to use MC cable.
Here is a problem I have come across in the past. Using either the rotosplit or hack saw electricians sometimes nick the neutral conductor. This can allow current to run in the casing and also metal framing of the building. It won’t trip breakers but it will create magnetic fields that may drive sensitive equipment crazy. The current will show up in the grounding conductor at the panel!
Electrician here, if I were seen doing option one on site, id be fired. Using your hands, you crack the jacket open by bending it, then unravel it before using your dikes to make the cut. Rotosplit is the best way, Seatek makes the best one, its the only one you see on sites. If you dont want to carry the rotosplit around all day, Klein makes an all-purpose shear or BX cutting shears. They make a cleaner cut than the dikes, have a round hole to reshape the MC cable and with a little finese you can sort of "crimp" your red head bushing in the jacket safetly. Also has a 12 AWG stripper. Its a very underrated tool.
I would like to add a little depth to my previous comment. BX was replaced with type AC because people were using the casing as a neutral conductor. Keep in mind a spiral metal conductor becomes an inductor having opposition to current flow. Type AC addressed that with a bonding strap run it entire length. Type AC has been overrun by type MC with an insulated grounding conductor but the bonding strap was eliminated. That means the casing can once again act as a separate conductor and as an inductor. I have tracked down and repaired many problems in metal framed offices that were magnetic fields created by this stray current. The magnetic fields interfered with sensitive electronic equipment. A pickup capable of detecting magnetic fields is necessary to diagnose these problems but they can reasonably be purchased and will fit some standard hand held meters.
Yes you put the split of the anti short opposite the cut seem of the cable. And cut resistant gloves,?you only wear these when you have the proper matching purse to go along with them. electrician since 73' never worn gloves.
then why do all the standard connectors i use have the ribs that align perfectly with the mx coils? i've used the standards many times before and it passed inspection. those standard box connectors have never come up in inspection
I watched this before working with my first MC cable but it turns out it wasn't necessary. It was trivially easy to unwrap and cut with a pair of side cutters, no gloves, no pliers. It took only seconds to do it. It was no more trouble than stripping romex. I don't understand why people struggle with it.
@2:35 Why don’t you use the bx cutter? Ok edit: @5:57 this is what I’ve always used when cutting this. @7:16 the tool isn’t even expensive, lol. I always try to do things properly even if it costs more…. I have however, never seen a saddle connector before. I’ve always just used a normal one.
As an electrician I find nothing is faster than a hack saw(put the coil on the ground place your foot on hold the loose end in one hand while applying tension cut until the sheath slides or moves and you'll never cut the wires
For me, the hacksaw. Conduit is required where I live, but armored is allowed for runs up to six feet, so we occasionally use it for specific applications like exposed runs like the example here, box to furnace. For these limited runs, I just bought a roll without wires and stuff it my self.
I worked with people who would either bend the cable until it opened and then snip it, or cut it with a hacksaw. I have the Roto-Zip tool and I wouldn't do it any other way.
Roto split tool, but it’s faster to just nip the MC with your dikes at one of the ridges and twist it apart this is not only faster then all the ways he just showed but even less likely to damage the wire inside and we always put the red head, or red devil, bushing whatever you call it depending on where you live in between the plastic liner and the outer jacket or buy connectors that have the bushings in them
@@johnw9874 I would agree if you are cutting BX or steel jacketed cables but aluminum jacket dikes are faster and I’ve had my roto split from like 1996 so a few years
1. At 3:30, where can I get one of those little red wrenches? 2. Is there a tool available that can do the separate and cutting of the bx shield in one take without a risk of nicking the insulation? If not, maybe there’s an opportunity here for someone to make a few bucks. Ha, looks like i should have watched the whole video!
Good explanation. Do like the striper but no point to clutter the tooI box and spent money. I do different. I do bent the bx wire at length I want to strip and with side cutter I cut the sheathing
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Industrial electrician. We often do the old bend, pop and snip to strip the jacket. Fast, accurate enough, can be done with limited available space and you can do it easily while standing on a ladder and/or dealing with already ran overhead cable. A roto split is a great way to go, anything assembled on the ground gets that treatment. BX connectors are built more solid than the Romex ones, you can grab the connector with a set of channellocks and turn the connector itself to tighten instead of messing around with the nut. Also to make sure the little "flag" on the redhead comes through the hole in the connector for fast confirmation during inspection.
Try using a Robinson S2 instead of a slotted or Philips screwdriver and you will never go back. On circuit breakers too!
Yep. Get some tin snips.
@@dirtyrotten2648:
Tin snips are overkill for MC. Diagonal cutters work better. Plus a diagonal cut leaves an obtuse angle which is less sharp than a 90° crosscut.
why not just use the"magic tool" it's an MC cutter. similar to a pipe cutter and i've never nibbed the wires inside
@@chuckholmes2075Tool belt weight... tool cost _(electrical tools can quickly nickel and dime you to death)..._ how often you use MC in your work _(if your residential, probably not that often, there is a state that mandates MC in residential, I think it's Illinois if I'm not mistaken, but otherwise...)..._ there's lots of reasons many sparkies choose not to get MC cutters, usually it's a combination of factors.
Also, the bend-twist-snip technique can be done relatively quickly with only gloves and diags... I'm 5'7" a buck-fourty soaking wet... not a big guy and I can do it with gloves no pliers needed... so trust me ★most★ any electrician can learn to do it with one tool we all already carry ( maybe not but I've never seen an electrician without diagonal cutters)...
For my light frame, belt weight is a serious consideration... I'm not try'n to carry my weighg in tools. Could it stay in the truck till I need it? Sure but then is it worth it when I can do it in the time it would take me to go get the tool and come back?...
I also never worry about cutting my conductors as it's not hard to be careful enough to not have to worry about that, so there's also that...
I'm just say'n it does't always make sense for everyones work flow. To answer your question in spite of the lacking question mark, that is.
I recommend that when you insert the red bushing you align the pointy part (it has a pin like pointer) with the rough side of the BX cable cut. This will result in a better protection of the wires from that sharper cut side. Some BX cables also have a thin flexible Galvanized wire. I wrap this wire about three turns around the outside of the bx jacket in the same direction as the grooves. This will ensure that the red bushing stays in place during handling of the installation. Thank you for a great video.
7:00 I didn't like the way the last one had the sharp claw-like edge of the cable right in the split of the bushing - worst possible scenario ! I like to trim that claw too
@@jefffree6990 Yes, what we see at 7:00 is a poster child for doing this right, with orientation and/or trimming. That's the illustration of what to avoid.
I always just bend it with my hands about 90 degrees and then cut with my side cutters. Great video and very informative.
I bought that MC cutter tool along time ago, had to do a few mc connections. It is easy to use and once bought, saves time and will last a DIY homeowner a lifetime.
just don't buy the Klein one. they now outsource their tools from china and slap a "klein" sticker on it that says "made in america"
I've been using the old MC cutter forever. It hangs nicely on one of my tool belt bags and makes it clean and easy when installing whips while on a ladder.
I hate wearing gloves when I work on electrical (and pretty much everything), and that tool is the right tool for the job.
I prefer the first method of cutting/stripping the MC cable. That method seems more productive for real job site work. Thank You and keep up the good videos. Have A Wok-Safe Day! 👷🚜🚧
Great video. At 7:04 in the video, you really need to turn around the red bushing (aka Red Head) with the molded lip portion of the red bushing covering the sharp raw edge of the cut piece of spiral metal to protect the conductors inside. Right now, the open end red bushing is not protecting the conductors and therefore the sharp edge of the spiral metal can easily cut into the wires. I have seen too many BX/MC cable installations where the installer forgot to use the red bushing and this is a big NO NO causing potential electrical problems in the future and immediate failure of the electrical inspection.
Yeah there's still that sharp corner there that the bushing is supposed to cover. Also, almost unbelievably, it's supposedly not required to use those red bushings on type MC. Only the old AC requires it. But I say one absolutely should use those bushings without exception.
Amen to the positioning of the bushing.
Totally putting red bushing in wrong !
If you feel the red bushing was installed the wrong way, then what is the correct way? Please be advised that Scott installed the red bushing the correct way. @@mofbombay6290
I noticed that too and immediately went to the comments to see if my intuition was correct. But overall a very informative video...
I used the hacksaw until one day an older electrician gave me the special tool. It saves so much time and keeps you from slipping with the hacksaw and injuring yourself. The tool is very cheap compared to your time and if it saves you from injury it keeps you on the job more.
What is the tool you were given
Was it a Rotosplit? One of the types at the 6:00 mark.
Love your videos, always learn something. I rarely use BX and I have struggle with it, now I now the right way to cut it.
I learned the hacksaw cut way back in 1966. The only difference I learned was to make your cut then just crack the bx by bending away from the cut (no reverse twisting); worked like a charm (remembering the shop teacher to never, never forget to install the anti-shock bushing).
For me, the right tools for the job. Thanks for your time and effort making the video.
I have seen them installed but never being installed. Well explained and definitely the third method is the cleanest but if you are a professional. Thank you for sharing
I got the Klein tool and I love how quick and easy it is to use.
I also got the connectors that snap into the junction box and grab the cable end when you push it in.
I always use the mc cutter. makes it a lot easier.
As an electrician I usually snap and cut mc cable with diagonal cutters. Bx though either rotosplit or bend and snap any cut with tin snips. Hacksaw only for larger metal clad wire. Although it is required to use an anti short bushing with steel ac bx, mc cable does not require an anti short bushing. And for all the hate that guys will throw at that comment, please refer to nema bulletin 90 for clarification. I do enjoy watching your content and thought you always are looking for information.
I really learned something here, as I do from all of your videos. I was an aircraft electrician so I’ve never worked with this stuff. Just the occasional romex and outlet in my own house.
I've used a Dremel with a metal cut off wheel. Works well!
Just did it with the Dremel, worked great and took 3 seconds.. Probably not the way to go on the ladder though.. :)
I always use 2 of the red bushings so the gap in the first bushing is covered up with the second bushing. One gap at 12 o'clock and one gap at 6 o'clock. It fully protects the wires.
Hi There, i have saw you're different methods of unwrapping the BX cables although i noticed that you did 'nt mention that the red bushing has to have the opening slot in such way to be at the opposite side of the cutting edge of the bx cable... But you're explanations are well done. 👍
Great teacher! Excellent information! Conducting poll is brilliant!
Thanks for the feedback!
nice, I learn something every time I watch one of your videos.
Thanks for watching 👍
Hi. I've never had to use MC but I never would have thought that those angled cuts were the right thing. I would have guessed a 90* cut was correct. Just shows how there's reasons trained professionals are professionals.
Thank you! I love working with the Metal System.
I have a similar Klien cutter and love it. I wired my garage with it and it was a breeze when doing many runs of the wire.
Thanks for the feedback 👍
Very helpful video thank you.
Why not use an EMT conduit pipe cutter instead of the MC cutter? Seems like they work almost the same. Also can use the conduit cutter for cutting plumbing pipes.
The first method and the tool look the best for me.
As a plumber, I just bend and snap metal clad to unravel it, then use a diagonal cutter to cut the metal strand.
I've always used a dedicated wheel cutter, but that pliers-and-dikes method is pretty slick.
Thanks! I wish I had this video few months ago and didn't learn how to cut it the hard way 😂
I've used MC and conduit, and I prefer the latter. Looks cleaner when I'm done. Not that I have used either very often.
I used the tool in step 3 when installing cabinet lighting in the kitchen. Getting the wheel to cut sometimes is tricky depending on the bend of the cable. The biggest issue I had with MC is having the wires pull out and the not having enough wire on the other end. I know it's from inexperience, but something that got me a few times.
My go-to tool. method #3 saves me time and headaches.
Used #3 in wiring my kitchen from knob and tube.
Nice, thanks for the feedback
We are adding a light fixture above our kitchen sink where the wire will be pretty much behind the drywall due to a header that is above the window over the sink. The electrical box we are connecting to is the switch to the disposal and is already there, we would prefer using this box since it is already fastened to the wall (old wood lath), to avoid complicating things. But the box is the one in blue plastic. Is it ok to run this metal jacket wire into a plastic box? We also question how to fasten it once in the box since this type of box is not made to accept a connector with a ring. W e are sort of stuck... Thanks for the great videos, we trust your work and normally look inside your channel first before looking elsewhere.
Great video, thanks! Is there a waterproof/resistant saddle clamp for outdoor use?
Thankfully I've only had to use bx once, and it was a short run (~3ft). I pulled the conductors right out, cut all the way through the steel with a hacksaw to length, then slid the conductors back in. Super convenient and easy way to trim shorter runs.
Not always possible with longer runs.
True, but a common enough use case here is breaker panels that don't support combination AFCI breakers, so to meet code you have to run armored cable to a box with an AFCI outlet in it. So only 1-2ft necessary. One of the more common use cases for casual home owners to need bx.
@@BrownR87 Yeah, I’ve been doing rough ins with them inside walls. 100 ft or so to each device in circuits.
I use a hacksaw. If I don't have a vise handy you just put the end of the MC on the ground and step on it. Pull it tight with your left hand and saw at an angle with your right hand.
That is how it was done back in the day without any fancy roto split tool.
Method 1 is my go to, although I've never seen that cool tool used on method 3 so thanks for sharing that.
You bet!
you don't need the two channel locks. You just hold the mc cable with both hands and bend it and then just cut it . Ways faster ;)
@@lyndenwldYou can also carefully snip 1 of the raised ribs with a pair of dikes. This will allow the piece to pull away from the conductors.
My blood pressure went up when you used 2 channel locks but it absolutely spiked when you brought out that goofy mini hack. Just bend it into a 90, rotate it backwards to open, then snip the shit. You can use your sharp cut edge to break the plastic wrap on the inside. No homeowner should ever even touch this shit, bush less cause a short with a hacksaw lol
I like the roto-split tool as it gives clean cuts as long as the blade is sharp and the tool is adjusted properly for depth of cut. Seatek has been bought out by Southwire and the Klein Tools splitter used in the video seems to be a copy of the Seatek tool that I have.
I wonder if i can use this over the romex for my wafer lights, to run it over the top of the joist instead of drilling a hole.
Electrician here. We use a hacksaw in the field. With a little practice you can cut it very quickly and cleanly
Electrician where? 20 years in the trades, and have never seen an electrician use a hacksaw. They all use a roto split.
Thanks! perhaps you could do a vid on all things MC-. Can I run MC to a PVC junction box? or does it have to be metal. If it has to bee metal, isn't there something important that I need to know about th grounding?
I have a 40+ year old Seatek Roto-split tool for this application. Cutters are still available for it. This is the only method I use.
I bought one years ago and I believe that is the best option as well. Using side cutters can cause damage to the cutters themselves....Which I had happened to me.
Most wire cutters are not made for steel. Luckily for me I only cut MC cable with it two times to realize it was leaving notches on the blades of the cutters. But it didn't permanently damage the cutters. Thank goodness.
Got myself a roto-split tool after that.
When installed, make sure the 'red rocket' (bushing) is visible from within the box. Inspector doesn't want to have to dig to see it.
#3 all the way for me - another reason you're less likely to damage a conductor is that the blade runs parallel to them, so it would tend to slip between instead of trying to chop them off.
Fyi- red heads (the red plastic anti-short bushing) are not required with MC, only with AC/BX.
Do you need to protectors anytime running wire... like that.... JJ...😊
By code MC cable can be run exposed the outer jacket is the protection but you need to strap it 12” from every connection point and every 4’ to 6’ after now that being said the stuff is by no means indestructible if you are putting it in a place where it could be exposed to heavy impact it’s not ok to use MC like say a garage where if it was exposed and you could hit it with a car or hammer in situations like that you can’t use it areas like that you need to be over 8’ high before you run it below 8’ you would need conduit. Hopefully that answers you.
Fun fact: The NEC does not require anti-short bushings for MC cable, only AC/BX cables. Also, when using a hacksaw you do not need to cut all the way through the aluminum jacket. You only need to score it with the blade. It takes a few times until you get the hang of it but it is quick and easy. I carry a pocket hacksaw for this purpose.
Outstanding. Great work !!
There are also romex like connectors which do not have a full round hole rather the hole towards the box has a semi rectangular shape but they do have the standard two screw clamp for the casing like romex metal connectors. The hole shape prevents the metal cladding from slipping out of the connector into the box.
I was optimistic and motivated in 2023 and purchased a Klein MC tool. No idea how to use it, so this video helped me understand. So maybe if I get a burst of energy and a psychiatric episode of delusion, I can try and tackle a project that I've wanted to do since moving in here. The people that lived here before me just had a strange love or fetish for J boxes, or so it seems. They're everywhere, even in places they're not supposed to be. In one instance a finished room in the corner of the basement had a junction box in the rafters, that is covered by a plastered ceiling. That ceiling is totally plastered. It needs to come down. The idiot before me put up one of those damn stupid, LED fixtures, and he didn't use a J box for those, for some reason. He just drilled a hole in the ceiling, ran the wire through and screwed the whole fixture directly to the ceiling. Several feet, there is a junction box in the rafters with a wire (No ground and asbestos insulation) running from the bedchamber upstairs, into that box, then back out of that box over to another Junction box (Hex or Octagon) on the rafter with an outlet plate over it, and a clamp on the other side. NO GFCI protection fed from an outlet upstairs, going through a concealed box.
But anyway. I want to redo the furnace wire (and what I just described here) to run directly from the switch, as it is now, and directly into the fuse box (breakers) instead of into a junction box, then into the panel. It makes no sense how this house is wired. I wanted a rewire but the electric guy I hired talked me out of it and just said to put GFCIS in lieu of a grounded circuit. Looking back, I think they didn't want to handle the asbestos. But it's got to go, so I have to do it myself. And when one is crippled and has tumors and health problems and lack of money to have another bid for a rewire with another company, because the first company was afraid to do it, and I get it... But it is still not done. And it's impossible for me to do. But at least I know how to do what I need to do and I have the stuff I need to do it, after I buy more stuff, and now have the tools and knowledge how to use them. If lying in the bed wasn't painful, I wouldn't even bother getting out of the bed. There is just no point to anything, anymore.
“We don’t need no stinking special tool!” ( humor here!) I just grab the cable with both hands close together and bend it sharply until it pops open, twist it a half turn clockwise creating a loop in the sheathing and snip with side cutters. Very easy with the aluminum jacket. Back when it was called BX and steel it was a little tougher!
Can mc or bx wire be run in an insulated interior wall like normal romex cable as long as it's supported and then later covered with drywall?
Is there a metal connector you can use instead of the red plastic connector? Thanks. Jim
i run alot of MC especially big stuff like aluminum 500 mcm 3 conductor with ground . yes it comes that large . that stuff is about the diameter of your arm . i use a zipwheel on an angle grinder to just cut through the aluminum armor . then use a big red bushing.
Thank you for this video, it is helpful!
Where did you get that cool little red wrench for the connector nuts?
This is the 3-pack I got amzn.to/3THYKCu
Was Wiring Town Houses way back when. It was illegal to run Romex in an Attic Space. Bought two BX Roto Tools, second one was half price. Found an odd tool thrown in the bag, it was a Romex Stripper. Master Electricians made fun of me. That’s until one of them ran a Hacksaw all the way into their leg muscle. Week later everyone had them. Still have my originals from then.
Always use a roto split then cut the end at a 45 degree angle then install red anti short bushings. In my area you have not been allowed to use flimsy AC ( BC ,cable with the #18 Guage extra flimsy bare ground wire ) since the 1980's in any commercial work. Have to use MC cable.
Here is a problem I have come across in the past. Using either the rotosplit or hack saw electricians sometimes nick the neutral conductor. This can allow current to run in the casing and also metal framing of the building. It won’t trip breakers but it will create magnetic fields that may drive sensitive equipment crazy. The current will show up in the grounding conductor at the panel!
It is impossible to nick the conductors with a properly functioning rotosplit. The blade does not go deep enough.
I always grab the MC with both hands, twist, and cut the loop with BX cable snips.
Electrician here, if I were seen doing option one on site, id be fired.
Using your hands, you crack the jacket open by bending it, then unravel it before using your dikes to make the cut.
Rotosplit is the best way, Seatek makes the best one, its the only one you see on sites.
If you dont want to carry the rotosplit around all day, Klein makes an all-purpose shear or BX cutting shears. They make a cleaner cut than the dikes, have a round hole to reshape the MC cable and with a little finese you can sort of "crimp" your red head bushing in the jacket safetly. Also has a 12 AWG stripper. Its a very underrated tool.
Method #1 is my alway go-to
Another awesome video!!
Thanks!
What size saddle connector and knock outs do I need for 10-2 bx
I would like to add a little depth to my previous comment. BX was replaced with type AC because people were using the casing as a neutral conductor. Keep in mind a spiral metal conductor becomes an inductor having opposition to current flow. Type AC addressed that with a bonding strap run it entire length. Type AC has been overrun by type MC with an insulated grounding conductor but the bonding strap was eliminated. That means the casing can once again act as a separate conductor and as an inductor. I have tracked down and repaired many problems in metal framed offices that were magnetic fields created by this stray current. The magnetic fields interfered with sensitive electronic equipment. A pickup capable of detecting magnetic fields is necessary to diagnose these problems but they can reasonably be purchased and will fit some standard hand held meters.
Thank you please let me know... JJ....😊
Thanks a lot for the information
Hm? Well Scott, since using the Klein Cutting Tool was so easy, fast, and effective, I would choose to use it always … over the other two methods.
Thanks for the feedback.
I like a RotoZip, but in a pinch, just score slightly with a saw, bend, then it'll snap at the score line.
I actually preferred your very first method for those occasional jobs where that might be necessary.
Thanks for the feedback 👍
Same here. Too frugal to by a fancy cutter.
Thank you for the education
Yes you put the split of the anti short opposite the cut seem of the cable. And cut resistant gloves,?you only wear these when you have the proper matching purse to go along with them. electrician since 73' never worn gloves.
😂 nice, does Klein Tools make purses 🤔
Teach us How to match bend parallel Runs of 4" Galvinized Ridgid Conduit with a Hydralic pipe bender Mr " Master" Electrician !
Thanks 😊, very informative.
I liked the first method.
Thanks for the feedback!
#1 is the best and cheap !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
then why do all the standard connectors i use have the ribs that align perfectly with the mx coils? i've used the standards many times before and it passed inspection. those standard box connectors have never come up in inspection
I watched this before working with my first MC cable but it turns out it wasn't necessary. It was trivially easy to unwrap and cut with a pair of side cutters, no gloves, no pliers. It took only seconds to do it. It was no more trouble than stripping romex. I don't understand why people struggle with it.
I like the cutting tool.
@2:35 Why don’t you use the bx cutter? Ok edit: @5:57 this is what I’ve always used when cutting this. @7:16 the tool isn’t even expensive, lol. I always try to do things properly even if it costs more…. I have however, never seen a saddle connector before. I’ve always just used a normal one.
Good job information
As an electrician I find nothing is faster than a hack saw(put the coil on the ground place your foot on hold the loose end in one hand while applying tension cut until the sheath slides or moves and you'll never cut the wires
The insulating bushing (red head) is not required with the Type MC cable you are using. It is require withType AC cable.
That depends on the inspector.
If the inspector says red heads are required for Type NC he is making up rules, NEC does not require.
@@bobniles1928 Correct. Explicitly required for AC, no mention of it for MC.
For me, the hacksaw. Conduit is required where I live, but armored is allowed for runs up to six feet, so we occasionally use it for specific applications like exposed runs like the example here, box to furnace. For these limited runs, I just bought a roll without wires and stuff it my self.
Excellent!!!
Dang I was wondering what was taking him so long to upload it 😂
🙂
The tested and true hacksaw is my choice, easy to slip on the anti short afterwards
Use the roto zip tool
I worked with people who would either bend the cable until it opened and then snip it, or cut it with a hacksaw. I have the Roto-Zip tool and I wouldn't do it any other way.
Roto split tool, but it’s faster to just nip the MC with your dikes at one of the ridges and twist it apart this is not only faster then all the ways he just showed but even less likely to damage the wire inside and we always put the red head, or red devil, bushing whatever you call it depending on where you live in between the plastic liner and the outer jacket or buy connectors that have the bushings in them
I use the Roto-Split for years. Best method.
@@johnw9874 I would agree if you are cutting BX or steel jacketed cables but aluminum jacket dikes are faster and I’ve had my roto split from like 1996 so a few years
@@REXXSEVEN_II this what
1> hold 2> bend, band and forth 3> pull.......done
You have a special tool to tighten the lock nut, use the right tool to cut the MC, and the MC connector.
Have had and used a Roto Split for 50 years . Hacksaw ….eh way to slow while being careful not to damage conductors.
1. At 3:30, where can I get one of those little red wrenches? 2. Is there a tool available that can do the separate and cutting of the bx shield in one take without a risk of nicking the insulation? If not, maybe there’s an opportunity here for someone to make a few bucks. Ha, looks like i should have watched the whole video!
Good explanation. Do like the striper but no point to clutter the tooI box and spent money. I do different. I do bent the bx wire at length I want to strip and with side cutter I cut the sheathing
Thanks for the feedback
At least he is using good pliers
I have never seen the bushings at homedepot or menards. I always take a dermal and file down the sharp edges.
There is usually a little bag of them packaged with the coil of cable.
@@HoosierRallyMaster never seen then. But I usually normally only buy the stuff without the wire.
@@jasondessenberg6096That's not MC, it's Greenfield without wire. Without the bushings, you will fail inspection.
@@garyszewc3339 Bushings are not required with MC.
Can afford to buy the wrench to tighten the connector at the box, but not the MC cutter roto tool....yep that makes sense....
Very nice
*Good to know.*
That looks like a FMC connector. MC connectors have an insulated throat and per NEC MC does not require an anti-short bushing "red head"