On behalf of EZ Electrical System Solutions, thank you for featuring our EZ GUARD, Scott! We wanted to make sure everyone knows that the EZ GUARD is UL listed in the U.S. (UL 2239) & Canada (CSA-C22.2 No. 18.4-15). One of the many tests the EZ GUARD was required to pass for UL certification was stopping a screw from penetrating a wire inside a wood stud. Even when a screw bites through the wood, 1/16" thick zinc-plated steel does its job. You can take UL's word for it! The EZ GUARD also meets & exceeds NFPA 70 National Electrical Code 300.4 (Protection Against Physical Damage). Thank you all for your warm response!
At its core this is a great product. But, what really speaks volumes is its price point. Currently July 2022. They are $21-ish dollars for 25. For $200 you can buy enough to cover probably most residential homes for 100% guaranteed protection. People forget just how many studs are in house that are 16-18 inches apart.
Thank you for the additional information. I can imagine that there are circumstances where these would be an excellent solution to an otherwise difficult situation.
@@jessy61071 You are certainly correct about them being spendy, but an installer could be judicious about where they are used. Most of the time the stud holes' position itself would be plenty of protection against screw/nail penetration. But if for some practical reason the hole MUST be closer than that 1 1/4 NEC standard requires, these would be excellent protection -- plus, you get the plastic bushing to help avoid chaffing, such as around a corner.
I recently bought a home built in the 70's and the first screw I put in to secure a bookshelf went into a wire crossing through the stud in an odd location. This would have been a nice guard have had in place.
True story- working as a new construction plumber we would always install nail plates whenever our pipes were placed through studs, per code. More times than I can count I would swing by the job site for whatever reason and the drywallers would be there doing their thing. Glancing down into a trash can I would see a pile of aforementioned nail plates. Apparently (at least in my area) most drywallers remove the nail plates before installing the sheetrock. I would always take pictures just in case an issue arises later on, for legal evidence.
As a dry waller I gotta say, it likely wasnt just they the hangers took them out for whatever reason, they usually wiggle looser and looser over time to the point they don't fit well or are just barely hanging on. Just my experience. They end up all over the floor by the time I do my job anyway.
I can see why: they add a "bump" to the wall, so now the wall isn't flat. I'm neither a sparky nor a gyprocker/plasterer, but I wouldn't want to install a sheetrock on a bumpy surface either.
@@paulnieuwkamp8067 When I did a few walls in my house, wherever one of these steel plates was needed, I got out my router and took about 1/16" off of the surface where the plate would go. No bump! For tight spots, a chisel would also do the trick. Yes, it took more work to do, but for my own house, and for the sake of flat walls, it was worth the extra time to me.
I prefer drilling 5/8 in. holes for single runs of #12 and #14 NM cable - 2 or 3 wire. I have seen many times in torn out old work where larger than necessary holes were bored and the mice have used the cables like highways moving through the bored holes to get from stud cavity to cavity. When they want to make a hole a little larger they chew around it - and then chew the insulation off the cable down to bare copper. Its not that they want to eat the PVC insulation from the cable - they are just trying to make the hole a little larger. They love 1 in. holes, but I've never noticed that they move around stud cavities or from floor to floor when the bored holes are kept reasonably small.
I always see these clever solutions for mice/rodents and I'm just thinking - if you have mice in your wall cavities, you already have a problem. Need to get an exterminator and air seal the house. Puzzled at people planning their builds around them as if they are inevitable.
@@mr.g937 Where do you live that you don't know mice are usually inevitable? If there are mice in the area some will be looking to live inside and it's not easy to keep them out of wood frame construction. They can easily chew through wood and a lot of other materials, so what kind of "air sealing" do you think is going to stop them?
@@suedenim9208 I'm a landlord, I've never had mice in any of my properties. Never will, either. If you're using cardboard sheathing sure, but ain't no mice chewing through 3/4" plywood.
"I'm going by my experience, I'm not a licensed electrician". I like that a lot! I am a home owner and I have taught myself basic plumbing, electrical and framing. Keep it to code, do it safe.
Elderly, retired Canadian here. I'm no longer doing a lot of home renovating, but your advice is still timely {& correct, even in my country}. I hadn't seen the circular steel/plastic hole liners. Great idea - the nailer plates, although convenient after-the-fact {as JV below points out} they do add a thickness bump which may interfere with achieving a flat drywall surface. Tradeoffs...
Simple, trace the top and bottom edges of the plate onto the stud where it's to be installed, then mortise out that spot for the plate to recess into about 1/8" deep. Can be done in less than 30 seconds with a sharp chisel. To save even more time, you could do the tracing with the chisel itself. Lightly tap the plate in place so it temporarily stays in place, then line up the chisel(easiest with a 1 1/2" or 2" chisel) perpendicular with the top edge of the plate and give it a little tappy, then in the same fashion, line the chisel up with the bottom edge of the plate and give the chisel a lil' tapperoo, and voila, no marking device required, pop off the plate and complete the mortise, 15 seconds and done.
Got my bag from Menard's all the way down in Texas. Thanks for the heads up and any future electrician who works on this home after I'm gone will thank you as well.
I could also see the inserts being the better option when there's drywall on both sides and you're doing remodeling. You may only open the drywall on one side and so won't have access to the other side to be able to install a nail plate on both sides.
@@sacm.d.l8337 you don’t have to drill super close to one side, just far enough off-center to meet code on the other side without requiring plates. Also, 85% of interior walls are non-load bearing. You would only need to worry about crippling on the load bearing walls.
I just stumbled on to your page. WOW!!, what practical, down to earth and straight forward situations you explain in such simple terms, but with supporting "code" criteria, your years of experience, and great camera angles and sketches. Your calm assuring voice and video makes me feel confident to tackle anything!! Also love tool and gear recommendations! You're tops and can count on me as a new fan. Thanks so much, from a 77 yr old, heavy construction project mgr engineer and avid DIY'r in Salt Lake area upgrading a 1985 5,000 sf 5 split level rambler/ranch style home we bought 8 yrs ago. Love the home, just lots of work = we're basically replacing everything except sheet rock. I have full cabinet shop,, am retired and think I can do it all!! :), but I do hire pro's for the big stuff (roof, add 2 AC units, change out poly for pex, hard wood floors, carpet, granite counter tops, large picture windows and 4' sink!. I do moldings, all demo/prep, we have tiled floors, added ½ bath and built 14 x 20 library for wife, 13x20 concrete patio with serpentine stairway with12 steps, etc.) Wish I'd found you earlier. But still lots to do, but now I have you as my mentor! Thanks.
Not sure about the regulations but here in Finland the electricians that i've seen working seem to strive for having only vertical electrical lines going inside a wall, never horizontal and rarely going through studs. Typically going up toward the ceiling from eg. a wall outlet. I find this predictability practical.
Here in the states, for residential construction they typically run the wire horizontally from outlet to outlet a little above the height of those outlets. Otherwise they would be running up and down, over, then up and down, for every outlet and that would use a ton more expensive Romex and take a lot more time. This may not even be possible if they don't have access above the top plate during construction. That said I did remodel in my basement recently and ran most of my wire the way you are describing because I was going slow and being overly anal.
@@curtisbme any cable is very expensive. In the Netherlands it's standard practice to power so called central junction boxes in the ceiling where you usually fix your lights. From those boxes to each wall socket a separate pvc pipe is placed with the correct wires pulled in them. Wether it's concrete, plaster walls or whatever, this has a few upsides: -whenever wires get damaged due to an overload or whatever, you can pull in replacements through the pvc pipes -because each wallsocket has a separate feed from the junction box, fewer connections between the fuse and the wallsocket are made, fewer points of friction and therefor fewer weak points in the leads. This will make your house safer. Imagine having 3 points where you have wallsockets and they are all linked before the lead connects to the fuse. You put heavy duty equipment on that last wallsocket and the connectors of the other 2 wallsockets will heat up aswell. Heat is not your friend when it comes to electricity. Especially in a country like the USA using lower voltage thus requiring higher amperage for the same power output. -with this standardization, you always know what to expect when a house is built by professionals. That predictability creates safety and saves alot of time when needing to adjust or fix anything. -next to no holes need to be made in the beams, no nail/screw guards therefor too. this will actually save some time while making a safer grid.
@@AwoudeX It always amazes me that in america they just have the wire alone in the wall. Its nice that they use some ways to protect the wire so nobody would hit a nail in it or screw, but still if the wire ever would get damaged and needed replacement you would either have to run totally different wire outside the wall or tear the wall down to replace it. Even in Finland the wires run in PVC pipe so they are easy to replace if there ever is damage to the wire and usually going through several junction boxes so you don't have to pull several meters of wire through the pipe as it can be really hard when there is too many turns in the pipe. Still here usually you don't run same wire for the lights that you run for the sockets as lights don't need that much power as wall sockets need and should be in different fuses.
New to me as well, seems like they might only be in Menards. The company has a few other products that are interesting on their website. I like the creativity and thinking outside the box.
Interesting to see that from Europe. Here wires have to be placed within pipes - plastic or metal - from point to point. It's a lot of effort but once it's done a wire can be replaced or a new one added easily.
Is that really correct? First of all, I don't think stuff like this is harmonized eu-wide. Secondly, in the usa they have mainly wood homes, while in europe most houses are stone/brick, that will make a difference in how wiring is done i assume, isn't it?
@@Futschikatores AFAIK in Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Italy (at least the north :), Czech, Slovakia, France, Portugal, Sweden, Norway, Belgium, Denmark. There are certain EU regulations for electric installations but it is on national law to adapt them. Agree with wood vs. stone/brick especially for private/family residences. But I am wondering a) about the security of free floating wires inside a wooden wall and b) using pipes makes maintenance much more easy.
This is cable and not wires though... At least in France cables (such as U1000-R2V) can be run directly behind dry wall just like in this video (but not wires...)
@@thinktwice5035 all the wires are individually insulated save ground, then wrapped in that NM-B insulation there. Then the cable gets clamped in place by either a metal or insulated staple. If you ram just wire and not cable it would have to be conduit
I'm pretty particular about how my stuff goes together, so to avoid having the plate push the drywall out and make a small but extremely annoying lump when laying it over the plate I'll often mortise out a section a little less than 1/8" deep and the height of the plate and recess the plate in that mortise.
I agree given the electrical trade is the most ‘flexible’ in the overall build. As for the complaints about drywall bump as a result of the plates I’ve always found it inconsequential. I mean we’re talking about less thickness than the irregularities in the studs themselves.
In Norway we run EVERY hidden cable or wire inside a plastic flexible tube which securely connects to a wall box.. a simple and secure as it gets and you can always replace or add more wires if needed
Those speed bore bits are amazing, the perfect hybrid between a spade bit, an auger and a forstner bit. Though not useable for the same purpose as a forstner.
The hole liner is going to offer protection from both sides. I have seen someone hand sheathing on outside of the building with longer fasteners than they probably needed and it clipped a wire that was running into an outdoor light.
Was glad to see your review on horizontal wiring protection methods. I recently used the EZ guards from Menards you reviewed on my garage project and they worked great. By using the horizontal wiring thru 2x6 studs on 12 foot side walls I saved a significant amount of 12-2 wire to place electrical receptacles around wall perimeter. Thanks for the review!
They are pretty new and not sure if the EZ guard has made it into all the Menards location but at least in Illinois I have seen them for at least a few months.
Never seen those easy guards, I like them! I dislike nail plates as it creates a bump/wavy wall that is extra noticeable at the corners. In my last remodel I routed out the space for the nail guards just to make the area flat. It is also a pain when the guards are somewhere that I really need to secure the drywall but can't now. Another issue is that if you are doing a retrofit type work and running a new wire, you likely aren't going to cut out both sides of the drywall so one is missing a nail guard.
I had some AC lines right in the corner. I put my drywall screws about 3 inches from the corner because of the plate and there was no problems. Also, if you plan ahead, you can put that sheet in first so the sheet on the other wall helps secure it in place if you are really worried about it. Honestly, once that corner is taped and mudded, it will be fine.
Seems to me that it might be cheaper to just cut up a joint of rigid conduit into 1-1/2" segments and deburr the ends with a big deburr tool... I could make a batch in half an hour with my porta-band. Or if you're not too paranoid, you could use EMT and a hacksaw.
The problem with the bushings is if a long screw is driven into the stud there is more than enough wood for the screw to bite well enough to drive through the metal guard tube in the center of the stud. They really don't offer any real protection. The nail plates on the surface of the stud are much more effective because there is only drywall outside the plate which a screw could never bite into hard enough to drive through the nail plate. Btw, I've seen 2.5" construction screws driven all the way into 3" cast iron plumbing dwv pipe after being driven through 3/4" blocking. Even 3/4" of wood was enough to stabilize and allow the screw enough drive to penetrate 1/4" thick cast iron pipe wall.
I mean, it should be just as easy to tell if you hit no stud at all as it would be to tell if you're hitting a fuckin' cast iron pipe. Looks like we got Lenny from To Kill A Mockingbird hangin' shelves over here....
Agree to some extent, on the other hand if you nick the top or bottom it will likely glance off the side and bend. You would need to be pretty straight on because of its curved surface. Would be an interesting test. That said drywall screws normally have too shallow of threads by design to prevent that kind of thing. The only way to know for certain is to run some tests with it. Good through! I'm just not sure how well it pans out in practice.
The inserts don’t “bump out “the drywall either , good for the guys who have to create a smooth, even finish for whatever happens after the electrician is gone.. plates, hangers, all of that has to be compensated for by someone eventually! Great idea with inserts
Thank you for the helpful video. This is an issue for network cabling as well. We already use firestops for going through walls and floors. But inside walls it's Colorado straps. Glad to learn about some new tech.
The easy-guard is actually an invention I wanted to get a patent for about 10 years ago but it cost too much to pay for the patent so I abandoned the idea. Someone evidently thought of the same concept which I thought was baffling as to why no one had thought of it decades ago. The nail plates always leave a bump on the drywall, makes absolutely no sense to use those. good video!
Your going to hate me for saying this to you. Any bank would have given you a lone for that as it is a low risk lone. You had a simple product an idiot can understand. Sorry you lost out on becoming a multi millionaire... Banks don't like people taking out a lone to buy a car that's not used to make money. Banks love it when you take out a lone on the same vehicle when you use it for delivering products. All because one makes the person getting a lone money.
@@RyanWilliams-sq8fg No worries, sometimes you lose out, water under the bridge. I think I even submitted a temporary patent license for it and simply didn't have the time to pursue it with a Chinese manufacturer. You only have 12 months to get all those ducks in a row. I'll check my records and see if I have any recourse on claiming royalties haha.
@@aussie8114 Those bumps DO matter to drywallers on high-end projects where the job must be first-rate. I have drywaller friends. But removing those plates is a no-no.
The protective EZ GUARD tubes you use remind me of the ceramic tubes used with the old Knob and Tube wiring from the early 20th century (I have it in my home, all decommissioned). Back to the future!
In Belgium cables do not run horizontally. They always come from either the floor or the ceiling. Cables are also installed in a PVC tube or pre-installed in a flexible PVC pipe. Most walls here are build with bricks or concrete blocks. To install the pipes a lot of dirty work is needed using a chisel or small jackhammer. It was the work I did when I helped the certified electrician in my house. They are happy to delegate this dirty work and give a nice discount! When no bricks/blocks are used, they generally build dry walls with aluminum studs which are filled with isolation material. And again cables are put in PVC tubes that come vertically from the ceiling or the floor. These walls are used when you want to turn a big room in two smaller rooms or want the option to reorganize rooms in the future. I do not know if the vertical installation is mandated. But it makes it easy to see where you can and can't drill holes in the wall: do not drill above or beneath a outlet and you're safe. When you add cables later on. On the ground floor cables are usually added from the cellar (so they come from the floor). On the first floor they come from the attic (so they come from the ceiling). That is when the house has two floors of course.
Great Video - I have seen so many times people dropping 2" screws into drywall because they think it'll hold better or what not. I like the idea of that EZ Guard, but thats a lot of force being applied prior to hitting that guard, think I would stick with a plate over that [I actually set the depth on my planer and cut the edge so my drywall doesnt push out over the plate] - also, your confidence at 0:28 drilling and that pipe on the other side is impressive, I always get overly cautious in that scenario lol
EZ Guard also would work for protecting PEX plumbing. They're pretty slick but I'm somewhat cheap and likely just use a plate as I can install them after the fact.
@@burts6896 I don't see why a two-parter that snaps around the wire then slides into the stud wouldn't work... You'd need full access to the wall cavity, but it'd work...
I use rule of thirds. You cannot drill into the outer third of any stud. So for a 4-inch stud, you cannot use the outer 1.33 inch on either side, which complies w/ the stricter standard stated in the video, and scales up for safety in larger studs.
I've not seen "centerline" mentioned anywhere for hole placement in a stud. Using reasonable sized bits of 5/8 to 3/4 diam (for 3 wire romax), it would be damn hard for a competent installer to not be reasonably close to CL by eye only, for any depth of stud. I do stress competent. Seen more than a few contractors where ya, the owner knows what he's doing and maybe the foreman as well, but the off the street guys they hire? It's a gamble. True professionals are a rare beast ..
My compliments o a very good and educational video. This short video should be standard viewing on all building code communications. My sincere thanks, Prior to seeing the video and being a long time builder, I shamefully thought I knew everything. Again, I say thank you!
As great of the idea of the EZ guard is, having that big lip on either end prevents you using them in the double top plates, or anywhere where a king and jack stud may be used, Southwire makes a similar product but has a couple of ears on one side to grip the wood, or even snap off if need be when running into a 3 or more stud scenario
Oh I like those 'Easy Guards.' I have seen drywall screws go through Nail Plates, and I hate how Nail Plates stand off from the stud (in the past I have countersunk nail plates just to keep things perfectly flat LOL.
Someone could probably make a bit of money selling a nail plate mortice tool. Might save some time in high end construction where drywall lumps are unacceptable.
No, you haven't seen a drywall screw go through a nail plate. In order to penetrate a nail plate with a drywall screw, which is minimum 1/16" thick solid steel, one would have to drive the screw which would stop instantly once it hit the plate. Then, knowing they've hit something while the screw continues to spin, they'd have to continue drilling/driving and pushing hard on the back of the screw gun for ate least 5- 8 seconds, probably longer than 10 seconds, during which time the drywall screw tip will have dulled down to a flat spot. maybe, eventually, it would penetrate but unlikely given the laws of physics. I hear all the time people claiming they or someone they know easily penetrated a nail plate. You're all lying, neither you or your supposed friend did, unless you're such a goof that you kept pushing and pushing until 10-15 seconds later the screw went in. Typical online bs. Drywall screws do not penetrate nail plates. It's a fact.
In the UK wiring can only be run in "prescribed zones". These are: within 150mm of the ceiling, within 150mm of any corner, within vertical/ horizontal alignment with a switch or outlet. You cannot just run wires along the middle of a wall.
@@JimWhitaker If the cable cannot be run in a prescribed zone the following apply: 1. The cable must be over 50mm below the surface. If the wall is made from metal then it will need RCD protection (In the UK the whole circuit has RCD/GFCI protection not just the outlet), or 2. The cable should be armoured with an earthed armour or metal sheath, or 3. The cable should be in metal trunking or conduit which is earthed or, 4. It should have protection from at least 3mm steel (for whole cable, not just at the studs)
Damn... oldschool. Thats how we would do it 100 years ago in the Netherlands. You should check out our central box system. Way better and easier for maintenance.
I've gotta think a screw being shot in through a stud with an impact drill would make short work of the round tubes if it hit it somewhat square. At least the plates being on the other side of drywall wouldn't let you get the screw started into wood.
Pretty much but even that is underestimating the power of drivers, they’d send a self tapper through those plates in a second or two even if there is weight behind it.. unless they are hardened plates, which I doubt, the sleeves do look slightly hardened though, just eyeballing them
@samwilliams1517 The nailing plates I use are hardened. I also abide by the setback from the stud surface. As far as stud structural integrity? I recently gutted a 1950's bathroom that ran a large diameter galvanized pipe as an air vent. About 70% of the stud width was compromised. The only saving grace was the staggered floor structure, where those stud functioned more as wall nailer, there was a 12" beam above those compromised studs. The original plumber either knew this or got lucky.
lol... a professional on This Old House youTube channel recently made a wiring video, and you, a non-professional, produced a much more informed video than what they posted. You even answered a question in the comments section that no one there answered with the ez-gaurd! Too awesome! Made my day!
an overlength screw will drive right through those easyguards. the nailplates mostly work because screws will not have enough grip in sheetrock to drive through them, and hand driven nails will bounce back. I've seen gun driven nails go right through nailplates, and I've seen screws and nails driven right through steel conduit in cases where it was in a hole in wood that prevented the nail or screw from deflecting off.
I'd think one advantage of the EZ guards is that if you don't hit dead center a nail or screw has a decent chance of being deflected or deforming the tube (which will protect the cable from penetration). Of course the type of nail or screw is going to matter.
@@marktwain368 first, don't be lazy and drill too close to the surface. and second, don't be lazy and use the wrong fasteners, so when the electrician and plumber don't have any alternative, the nailplates will do their job.
Wow! These are really cool! I’ve seen other metal insert designs that just pop in, but these would work awesome in a remodel or especially a HT style room because the plastic bushing would help any sound related issues plus pretext the wires and maybe even have some efi interference blocking properties! 🎉very cool!
I learnt something today. Darn it, too late though. Now on the back side of the 70s wish I knew this about 50 years ago. Never too late to learn though. Excellent video.
I try to avoid making 1 1/8” holes whenever I can, especially in renovation work. A few of these in support members and you’ve got yourself Swiss cheese for strength.
Nicely explained video. It looked to me like the first hole you drilled was within 1 1/4" of the other side of the stud. I assume that code requires that distance on both sides in case somebody put a screw in from the other side, not just the side with the drywall off.? The EZ guards are cool, but I wish they made them for a smaller hole size. I would think that a 3/4" hole would be adequate. That's the size hole I drill for 1/2" EMT. I don't like drilling out 1 1/8 inches of stud even though it meets code. I would probably use both a nailing plate AND a 3/4" EZ guard to protect the wire really well from one side and good enough from the other. I guess you could make your own EZ guard from 1/2" EMT except for the integrated plastic bushing. If there was space, you could make your own bushing with two EMT set screw connectors and the off the shelf plastic bushings that go with those.
Good info. I don't like those hammer on plates though since they hold the drywall a good 1/8" off the stud in those spots. Love the Menards whole inserts instead.
Interesting that you say that. I was looking at a job in New Hanover County NC that had passed the electrical inspection. After observing several nail plates missing I sent photos to an electrical inspector. His reply "I will call the electrician and tell him to install them" Guess he didn't want to see for himself or follow up to see if the guards were installed.
My drywall skills are passable at best, so nailing plates are the bane of my existence. EZ GUARDS will be mandatory on all my projects from here on out for the sake of my sanity.
The powers that be worry about the project side of the stud but neglect the other side of stud, lol. I've always used the stud plates on both sides of possible. The easy guards are an excellent all around solution. Anyhow, your videos are always good and enlightening.
In my country you only see conduit or cable with metal sleeving. The romex cable is not allowed here. Also like in Sweden we try to run only vertical wires in walls which has the advantage of not going trough studs and when you see a outlet or switch you know that straight above it is a vertical conduit never have to guess where your powerlines are. Electrical is going from outlet or switch preferred to go up. Water and other things have preferred going down from the tap to the floor. This also minimizes the conflict of having different things have to cross eachother in walls.
American construction and electrical systems should really take a look at how it’s done in europe (at least in scandinavia). First of all: 1. wires/cables are run through flexible pvc tubes (16-20mm). This makes it easier to change wires/cables for rehab or damage. 2. For each stud and hole, we use a half moon shaped metal spoon (best way to explain it) that is hammered in between the pvc tube and hole. This protects the wires/cables/pvc tube, and screws/nails easily bends aside without breaking. They also clamp and holds the flexible pvc pipe nice and tight for easy feeding of wires/cables.
Good stuff. So you know, the EZ Electrical System Solutions, LLC EZ Guard Single Stud Electrical Wire mentioned here are now $1.17 each on Amazon (07.15.23).
Hmm, would these be big enough to protect PEX? I've got 70 year old galvanized that I'll be replacing myself this fall, and protecting that soft plastic tube sounds like a winner to me.
The liner seems like a bad idea... because if you put a long screw, it will hit the wood and will feel just right till you hit metal, so you may just keep drilling thinking it is just a knot and still go through... at least metal plate on the surface gives you instant feedback.
The problem isn't a long screw, because a self tapping wood screw isn't going to penetrate the metal. The problem is when drilling like for wall anchors. Most wall anchors aren't that deep unless they are made for putting into just drywall. Then you have the type which grip the back of the drywall for extra strength and if you find there is a stud there, you wouldn't use that type. If you're using standard wall anchors, you want them to grip the wood because that's very strong. If you are drilling for those and you hit something hard, it's best not to just push through. Find out what it is. If you are aware of these, you can get a slender magnet and see if it sticks.
@@kenmore01 but that requires sence... idiot proof solutions are better IMHO. I can can see some yahoo drilling out "cuz something got stuck down there"
I had not run across ez guards before... but there is no Menards in my state. These are a great idea: a long nail is going to hit the curved barrel and just deflect.
Wow, have never seen these EZ Guard protectors before but they look really interesting. I remember when I built my house I was always concerned about hitting things (wires & pipes) with drywall screws. I used a lot of protector plates where plumbing was concerned but not so much for the wiring which I tried to make certain was in the middle of the stud. However it always made me nervous considering my cedar siding was being nailed onto the 1/2" plywood wall sheathing with 2.5" ring shank nails. Never did hit anything fortunately but these things guards would have made me sleep easier.
When doing a homeowner project, the best way is to start is with informative RUclips videos and studying the correct wiring methods. The best way to avoid issues with your building, electrical or plumbing inspectors is to bypass the permit process. NO permit, means NO inspectors.
Another well explained video Scott! Darn it you cost me some more money. Now I need to go out and buy some of those inserts and speed bore bits. : ) Keep up the good videos. Proud of myself in that I had some of those inline Wagos before you demonstrated them.
The funny thing is here in the Netherlands you aren't "allowed" to run wire bare in the wall they need to at least be shielded by PVC pipes. Also since the majority of the houses are brick/concrete even inside. we tend to use a metal detector if we don't know how the electrical runs. So yeah we kinda look strange at the little safety regulations US building code has. Heck if you can't show if a certified electrician inspected your group box handy work you are basically not insured when your house burns down.
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists And still the way it's built in the video you would as a professional be stripped of your license here. Building codes are a fair bit stricter here.
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists That's not what he said. There needs be additional mechanical protection, alongside the outer and basic insulation of the cable.
I thought that there were some jurisdictions where you couldn't run Romex higher than N inches from the floor in order to avoid issues with people hanging shelves, etc.? But I have to say, the Hold Inserts (EZ Guard) seem very cool!
I like those guards, especially in places that might have shelves hung. For those blind corners, I like to fish string thru and tape it to the end of the wire. That's sometimes easier to fish the wire around the corner if I drill the smaller holes.
I started in home building in 1977. We drilled all holes at 24” and never drilled screws in at that height. If there were exceptions, they were noted for any that needed. Nail plates were invented for the hacks building homes today.
Nailer plates are absolutely required by code. And in the decades since that they've been required, they've never saved anyone from putting a screw through romex, ever. Those little protectors do look like a nice alternative, though. Meets code, doesn't get in the way of the drywallers. For old construction, you just use a flex bit and fish the wire, no code requirement for nailers for fished wire added later...otherwise you'd have to take half a house apart to run a new light. I do like those tri-wing stubby irwin bits, though!
@5:00 you can actually notch the corner if your unable to get your bit innto there to drill both sides and use the nail guard to comply with codes instead of having to get two straight drill holes or two 45's
It's always better to have the wire in the center of the wall, not up against the drywall. With it in the center, a nail or screw will more than likely put the wire out of the way, but if it is against the drywall, the screw will more likely go through the wire. I would also make sure you check code in your area, because notching the stud for wire may not be code in a lot of places.
I try to never go across studs if can reasonable help it, I come down the stud to the box back up into attic or other space back down another stud bay to a box etc. Have more issues with something hitting a wire mid bay than down next to a stud, homeowners not knowing better heck even other trades. But really like this vid showing best practices regardless.
Thanks for the video, needing to install a transfer switch in an unfinished garage... can a conduit go over the stud as per code? how close 2 holes can be drilled in a stud...is there code related to that as I have a romex running closer to that spot. thanks.
5:20 how do you add a nail plate to the other side of the stud? I am assuming there is a finished wall on the other side and someone might want to add a shelf, chair rail, or anchor a dresser for example.
Not just the City of Chicago but all the suburbs and most of the rest of Illinois require conduit. Local municipalities adopt the NEC and then delete the section involving Romex. Seems mostly universal throughout the state, even though the home centers sell it. His area must be an outlier. Having grown up using conduit for many decades I would not feel comfortable using Romex. Old habits.
What if you cut 3 studs in a row, in half all the way through and another right beside them, cut a 3 inch hole in a 3 1/2 inch stud for pluming. This in an outside wall with the weight of the roof rafters and the ceiling rafters, that wall was supporting. Would that be a good idea? I did not do this, but I discover someone indeed did this when I was remodeling. When I fixed it, I had to jack up the wall 1/2 inch for the new studs.
It even happens on a commercial jobsite. I was working beside a crew of Hondurans shitrock hangers and they forced screws through all the guard plates in every kitchenette of a hotel renovation. When they turned on the water, every floor leaked. The company "owner" disowned them all since they were all undocumented illegals getting paid under the table. Only use bonded and insured (ask for proof) contractors.
On behalf of EZ Electrical System Solutions, thank you for featuring our EZ GUARD, Scott!
We wanted to make sure everyone knows that the EZ GUARD is UL listed in the U.S. (UL 2239) & Canada (CSA-C22.2 No. 18.4-15).
One of the many tests the EZ GUARD was required to pass for UL certification was stopping a screw from penetrating a wire inside a wood stud. Even when a screw bites through the wood, 1/16" thick zinc-plated steel does its job. You can take UL's word for it!
The EZ GUARD also meets & exceeds NFPA 70 National Electrical Code 300.4 (Protection Against Physical Damage).
Thank you all for your warm response!
At its core this is a great product. But, what really speaks volumes is its price point. Currently July 2022. They are $21-ish dollars for 25. For $200 you can buy enough to cover probably most residential homes for 100% guaranteed protection. People forget just how many studs are in house that are 16-18 inches apart.
@@jessy61071 Safety is paramount
Thank you for the additional information. I can imagine that there are circumstances where these would be an excellent solution to an otherwise difficult situation.
@@jessy61071 You are certainly correct about them being spendy, but an installer could be judicious about where they are used. Most of the time the stud holes' position itself would be plenty of protection against screw/nail penetration. But if for some practical reason the hole MUST be closer than that 1 1/4 NEC standard requires, these would be excellent protection -- plus, you get the plastic bushing to help avoid chaffing, such as around a corner.
I recently bought a home built in the 70's and the first screw I put in to secure a bookshelf went into a wire crossing through the stud in an odd location. This would have been a nice guard have had in place.
I like that the stuff most DIY homeowners don't think of, like drywall screw length, has been identified and explained here. Thanks so much!
True story- working as a new construction plumber we would always install nail plates whenever our pipes were placed through studs, per code. More times than I can count I would swing by the job site for whatever reason and the drywallers would be there doing their thing. Glancing down into a trash can I would see a pile of aforementioned nail plates. Apparently (at least in my area) most drywallers remove the nail plates before installing the sheetrock.
I would always take pictures just in case an issue arises later on, for legal evidence.
Same here. Electrician for 45yrs.
As a dry waller I gotta say, it likely wasnt just they the hangers took them out for whatever reason, they usually wiggle looser and looser over time to the point they don't fit well or are just barely hanging on. Just my experience. They end up all over the floor by the time I do my job anyway.
I can see why: they add a "bump" to the wall, so now the wall isn't flat. I'm neither a sparky nor a gyprocker/plasterer, but I wouldn't want to install a sheetrock on a bumpy surface either.
@@paulnieuwkamp8067 When I did a few walls in my house, wherever one of these steel plates was needed, I got out my router and took about 1/16" off of the surface where the plate would go. No bump! For tight spots, a chisel would also do the trick. Yes, it took more work to do, but for my own house, and for the sake of flat walls, it was worth the extra time to me.
You can actually sue them for violation, damages and punitive damages for doing that. Nail plates are required.
I prefer drilling 5/8 in. holes for single runs of #12 and #14 NM cable - 2 or 3 wire. I have seen many times in torn out old work where larger than necessary holes were bored and the mice have used the cables like highways moving through the bored holes to get from stud cavity to cavity. When they want to make a hole a little larger they chew around it - and then chew the insulation off the cable down to bare copper. Its not that they want to eat the PVC insulation from the cable - they are just trying to make the hole a little larger. They love 1 in. holes, but I've never noticed that they move around stud cavities or from floor to floor when the bored holes are kept reasonably small.
I always see these clever solutions for mice/rodents and I'm just thinking - if you have mice in your wall cavities, you already have a problem. Need to get an exterminator and air seal the house. Puzzled at people planning their builds around them as if they are inevitable.
@@mr.g937 Where do you live that you don't know mice are usually inevitable? If there are mice in the area some will be looking to live inside and it's not easy to keep them out of wood frame construction. They can easily chew through wood and a lot of other materials, so what kind of "air sealing" do you think is going to stop them?
@@suedenim9208 I'm a landlord, I've never had mice in any of my properties. Never will, either. If you're using cardboard sheathing sure, but ain't no mice chewing through 3/4" plywood.
@@suedenim9208 umm the real question is where are YOU. LOL
@@mr.g937 well actually if they want to get in they will chew thru a lot
"I'm going by my experience, I'm not a licensed electrician".
I like that a lot!
I am a home owner and I have taught myself basic plumbing, electrical and framing. Keep it to code, do it safe.
Elderly, retired Canadian here. I'm no longer doing a lot of home renovating, but your advice is still timely {& correct, even in my country}. I hadn't seen the circular steel/plastic hole liners. Great idea - the nailer plates, although convenient after-the-fact {as JV below points out} they do add a thickness bump which may interfere with achieving a flat drywall surface. Tradeoffs...
Simple, trace the top and bottom edges of the plate onto the stud where it's to be installed, then mortise out that spot for the plate to recess into about 1/8" deep. Can be done in less than 30 seconds with a sharp chisel. To save even more time, you could do the tracing with the chisel itself. Lightly tap the plate in place so it temporarily stays in place, then line up the chisel(easiest with a 1 1/2" or 2" chisel) perpendicular with the top edge of the plate and give it a little tappy, then in the same fashion, line the chisel up with the bottom edge of the plate and give the chisel a lil' tapperoo, and voila, no marking device required, pop off the plate and complete the mortise, 15 seconds and done.
drywall is not flat, the bump is just so large that your eye doesn't pick it up
@@Astromyxinyep this is the way. I see absolutely no benefit to these far more expensive things for Menards for most people.
Most excellent info. No stupid logos, no annoying music, and right into the good info. PS: I like those Irwin tri-wing bits too.
Got my bag from Menard's all the way down in Texas. Thanks for the heads up and any future electrician who works on this home after I'm gone will thank you as well.
I could also see the inserts being the better option when there's drywall on both sides and you're doing remodeling. You may only open the drywall on one side and so won't have access to the other side to be able to install a nail plate on both sides.
You could just drill the hole closer to the side you have open so it is far enough from the other side to meet code without a nail plate on that side.
@@MikesDIY: Agreed, depending on the diameter of the hole. I don't know how many sizes those inserts come in.
Fist bump!
@@MikesDIY I like your idea in theory but you hate to cripple each stud by drilling so close to one edge
@@sacm.d.l8337 you don’t have to drill super close to one side, just far enough off-center to meet code on the other side without requiring plates. Also, 85% of interior walls are non-load bearing. You would only need to worry about crippling on the load bearing walls.
I just stumbled on to your page. WOW!!, what practical, down to earth and straight forward situations you explain in such simple terms, but with supporting "code" criteria, your years of experience, and great camera angles and sketches.
Your calm assuring voice and video makes me feel confident to tackle anything!! Also love tool and gear recommendations!
You're tops and can count on me as a new fan. Thanks so much, from a 77 yr old, heavy construction project mgr engineer and avid DIY'r in Salt Lake area upgrading a 1985 5,000 sf 5 split level rambler/ranch style home we bought 8 yrs ago.
Love the home, just lots of work = we're basically replacing everything except sheet rock. I have full cabinet shop,, am retired and think I can do it all!! :), but I do hire pro's for the big stuff (roof, add 2 AC units, change out poly for pex, hard wood floors, carpet, granite counter tops, large picture windows and 4' sink!. I do moldings, all demo/prep, we have tiled floors, added ½ bath and built 14 x 20 library for wife, 13x20 concrete patio with serpentine stairway with12 steps, etc.) Wish I'd found you earlier. But still lots to do, but now I have you as my mentor!
Thanks.
Sounds like a fun project! Welcome to the channel and best of luck on all your future projects.
Not sure about the regulations but here in Finland the electricians that i've seen working seem to strive for having only vertical electrical lines going inside a wall, never horizontal and rarely going through studs. Typically going up toward the ceiling from eg. a wall outlet. I find this predictability practical.
Yep, always straight up.
Here in the states, for residential construction they typically run the wire horizontally from outlet to outlet a little above the height of those outlets. Otherwise they would be running up and down, over, then up and down, for every outlet and that would use a ton more expensive Romex and take a lot more time. This may not even be possible if they don't have access above the top plate during construction.
That said I did remodel in my basement recently and ran most of my wire the way you are describing because I was going slow and being overly anal.
@@curtisbme any cable is very expensive. In the Netherlands it's standard practice to power so called central junction boxes in the ceiling where you usually fix your lights. From those boxes to each wall socket a separate pvc pipe is placed with the correct wires pulled in them. Wether it's concrete, plaster walls or whatever, this has a few upsides:
-whenever wires get damaged due to an overload or whatever, you can pull in replacements through the pvc pipes
-because each wallsocket has a separate feed from the junction box, fewer connections between the fuse and the wallsocket are made, fewer points of friction and therefor fewer weak points in the leads. This will make your house safer. Imagine having 3 points where you have wallsockets and they are all linked before the lead connects to the fuse. You put heavy duty equipment on that last wallsocket and the connectors of the other 2 wallsockets will heat up aswell. Heat is not your friend when it comes to electricity. Especially in a country like the USA using lower voltage thus requiring higher amperage for the same power output.
-with this standardization, you always know what to expect when a house is built by professionals. That predictability creates safety and saves alot of time when needing to adjust or fix anything.
-next to no holes need to be made in the beams, no nail/screw guards therefor too. this will actually save some time while making a safer grid.
Same in Australia 👍👍
@@AwoudeX It always amazes me that in america they just have the wire alone in the wall. Its nice that they use some ways to protect the wire so nobody would hit a nail in it or screw, but still if the wire ever would get damaged and needed replacement you would either have to run totally different wire outside the wall or tear the wall down to replace it. Even in Finland the wires run in PVC pipe so they are easy to replace if there ever is damage to the wire and usually going through several junction boxes so you don't have to pull several meters of wire through the pipe as it can be really hard when there is too many turns in the pipe. Still here usually you don't run same wire for the lights that you run for the sockets as lights don't need that much power as wall sockets need and should be in different fuses.
Wow! I'm a retired electrician and never seen those EZ Guards. A brilliant idea! Why didn't I think of that and make a million bucks?
😄💯
they have those for commercials, similar, how ever not sure how much more those things would be.
Because they cost 20 times more than nail plates so you'd likely make nothing. But I agree, great idea.
Never seen the Ez guard product. thanks.
New to me as well, seems like they might only be in Menards. The company has a few other products that are interesting on their website. I like the creativity and thinking outside the box.
Interesting to see that from Europe. Here wires have to be placed within pipes - plastic or metal - from point to point. It's a lot of effort but once it's done a wire can be replaced or a new one added easily.
Is that really correct? First of all, I don't think stuff like this is harmonized eu-wide. Secondly, in the usa they have mainly wood homes, while in europe most houses are stone/brick, that will make a difference in how wiring is done i assume, isn't it?
@@Futschikatores AFAIK in Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Italy (at least the north :), Czech, Slovakia, France, Portugal, Sweden, Norway, Belgium, Denmark. There are certain EU regulations for electric installations but it is on national law to adapt them. Agree with wood vs. stone/brick especially for private/family residences. But I am wondering a) about the security of free floating wires inside a wooden wall and b) using pipes makes maintenance much more easy.
This is cable and not wires though... At least in France cables (such as U1000-R2V) can be run directly behind dry wall just like in this video (but not wires...)
@@thinktwice5035 all the wires are individually insulated save ground, then wrapped in that NM-B insulation there. Then the cable gets clamped in place by either a metal or insulated staple. If you ram just wire and not cable it would have to be conduit
Not UK.
LOVE the insert! It also protects the Romex from the edges of the hole and removes a miserable raised spot for the drywall to cover.
The easy guards are nice because it allows you to use that part of the stud to refasten the sheetrock.
You could do-it-yourself with a short piece of rigid conduit... You don't get the nice plastic flanges, but it'll certainly do the job.
The plates can be installed _after_ the wiring is in place. And they can be used to protect plumbing, and other mechanicals.
Yup.
I'm pretty particular about how my stuff goes together, so to avoid having the plate push the drywall out and make a small but extremely annoying lump when laying it over the plate I'll often mortise out a section a little less than 1/8" deep and the height of the plate and recess the plate in that mortise.
@@Astromyxin - I had the same thought if I was patching drywall after adding the protective plate.
I agree given the electrical trade is the most ‘flexible’ in the overall build. As for the complaints about drywall bump as a result of the plates I’ve always found it inconsequential. I mean we’re talking about less thickness than the irregularities in the studs themselves.
@@joeyoungs8426 if you get them from home depot or lowes
In Norway we run EVERY hidden cable or wire inside a plastic flexible tube which securely connects to a wall box.. a simple and secure as it gets and you can always replace or add more wires if needed
We do this for new builds, but it makes no sense to tear up an entire house to do this
You can still put a screw or nail through plastic.
Take away the subject matter and just consider problem, solution, explanation and video quality. Easily top 5 of any channel on RUclips. Major Kudos.
As usual, nice presentation of issues with running wire in walls! Thx
For single 14/2 w/grd romex cable, I bore a 1/2" hole and that I find is plenty. Like you, I always bore in the center of the stud.
Those speed bore bits are amazing, the perfect hybrid between a spade bit, an auger and a forstner bit.
Though not useable for the same purpose as a forstner.
the weakness is if they hit ANY metal, they're done.
@@kenbrown2808 Found that out the hard way.
@@Kevin-mp5of not sure if it's that model, but I have some Bosch bits.
I like them but actually find them to occasionally be a little too fast/aggressive and have wrenched my wrist a few times from them binding.
@@curtisbme I think the fact that I already have to wear a wrist brace for damn near everything makes me immune to this issue.
The hole liner is going to offer protection from both sides. I have seen someone hand sheathing on outside of the building with longer fasteners than they probably needed and it clipped a wire that was running into an outdoor light.
Was glad to see your review on horizontal wiring protection methods. I recently used the EZ guards from Menards you reviewed on my garage project and they worked great. By using the horizontal wiring thru 2x6 studs on 12 foot side walls I saved a significant amount of 12-2 wire to place electrical receptacles around wall perimeter. Thanks for the review!
Those easy guards are cool! Peace of mind you won't get your house burned down, and no worries when screwing into walls, nice!
Thanks!
Have learned a lot from your channel - thank you.
Thanks Scott I have shopped Menards for years, but never seen the EZ Guards before. I will check them out.
They are pretty new and not sure if the EZ guard has made it into all the Menards location but at least in Illinois I have seen them for at least a few months.
You just showed things I never knew were available. Thanks
👍 happy to help!
Never seen those easy guards, I like them! I dislike nail plates as it creates a bump/wavy wall that is extra noticeable at the corners. In my last remodel I routed out the space for the nail guards just to make the area flat. It is also a pain when the guards are somewhere that I really need to secure the drywall but can't now.
Another issue is that if you are doing a retrofit type work and running a new wire, you likely aren't going to cut out both sides of the drywall so one is missing a nail guard.
I had some AC lines right in the corner. I put my drywall screws about 3 inches from the corner because of the plate and there was no problems. Also, if you plan ahead, you can put that sheet in first so the sheet on the other wall helps secure it in place if you are really worried about it. Honestly, once that corner is taped and mudded, it will be fine.
Seems to me that it might be cheaper to just cut up a joint of rigid conduit into 1-1/2" segments and deburr the ends with a big deburr tool... I could make a batch in half an hour with my porta-band. Or if you're not too paranoid, you could use EMT and a hacksaw.
The problem with the bushings is if a long screw is driven into the stud there is more than enough wood for the screw to bite well enough to drive through the metal guard tube in the center of the stud. They really don't offer any real protection.
The nail plates on the surface of the stud are much more effective because there is only drywall outside the plate which a screw could never bite into hard enough to drive through the nail plate.
Btw, I've seen 2.5" construction screws driven all the way into 3" cast iron plumbing dwv pipe after being driven through 3/4" blocking.
Even 3/4" of wood was enough to stabilize and allow the screw enough drive to penetrate 1/4" thick cast iron pipe wall.
@T.J. Kong - right. Even nails would penetrate.
I agree and I have been wiring for 51 years now.
Good Point, even though you'd have to be some kind of nincompoop to not feel yourself driving a screw through solid metal.
I mean, it should be just as easy to tell if you hit no stud at all as it would be to tell if you're hitting a fuckin' cast iron pipe. Looks like we got Lenny from To Kill A Mockingbird hangin' shelves over here....
Agree to some extent, on the other hand if you nick the top or bottom it will likely glance off the side and bend. You would need to be pretty straight on because of its curved surface. Would be an interesting test. That said drywall screws normally have too shallow of threads by design to prevent that kind of thing. The only way to know for certain is to run some tests with it. Good through! I'm just not sure how well it pans out in practice.
The inserts don’t “bump out “the drywall either , good for the guys who have to create a smooth, even finish for whatever happens after the electrician is gone.. plates, hangers, all of that has to be compensated for by someone eventually! Great idea with inserts
I never seen them before. It is well thought out idea. Thank you for sharing
Hey Hassan, you should checkout the boxes they have as well. I might order a few to take a closer look ez-ess.com/ez-gang
Thank you for the helpful video. This is an issue for network cabling as well. We already use firestops for going through walls and floors. But inside walls it's Colorado straps. Glad to learn about some new tech.
The easy-guard is actually an invention I wanted to get a patent for about 10 years ago but it cost too much to pay for the patent so I abandoned the idea. Someone evidently thought of the same concept which I thought was baffling as to why no one had thought of it decades ago. The nail plates always leave a bump on the drywall, makes absolutely no sense to use those. good video!
Your going to hate me for saying this to you. Any bank would have given you a lone for that as it is a low risk lone. You had a simple product an idiot can understand. Sorry you lost out on becoming a multi millionaire...
Banks don't like people taking out a lone to buy a car that's not used to make money. Banks love it when you take out a lone on the same vehicle when you use it for delivering products. All because one makes the person getting a lone money.
@@RyanWilliams-sq8fg No worries, sometimes you lose out, water under the bridge. I think I even submitted a temporary patent license for it and simply didn't have the time to pursue it with a Chinese manufacturer. You only have 12 months to get all those ducks in a row. I'll check my records and see if I have any recourse on claiming royalties haha.
@@arminius301 Worth a shot good luck.
The bump would be of no issue. Adhesive leaves a bump but it’s also of no issue. The easy guard is a neater idea though.
@@aussie8114 Those bumps DO matter to drywallers on high-end projects where the job must be first-rate. I have drywaller friends. But removing those plates is a no-no.
The protective EZ GUARD tubes you use remind me of the ceramic tubes used with the old Knob and Tube wiring from the early 20th century (I have it in my home, all decommissioned). Back to the future!
REALLY great examples. As a visual person, this is golden.
In Belgium cables do not run horizontally. They always come from either the floor or the ceiling. Cables are also installed in a PVC tube or pre-installed in a flexible PVC pipe. Most walls here are build with bricks or concrete blocks. To install the pipes a lot of dirty work is needed using a chisel or small jackhammer. It was the work I did when I helped the certified electrician in my house. They are happy to delegate this dirty work and give a nice discount!
When no bricks/blocks are used, they generally build dry walls with aluminum studs which are filled with isolation material. And again cables are put in PVC tubes that come vertically from the ceiling or the floor. These walls are used when you want to turn a big room in two smaller rooms or want the option to reorganize rooms in the future.
I do not know if the vertical installation is mandated. But it makes it easy to see where you can and can't drill holes in the wall: do not drill above or beneath a outlet and you're safe.
When you add cables later on. On the ground floor cables are usually added from the cellar (so they come from the floor). On the first floor they come from the attic (so they come from the ceiling). That is when the house has two floors of course.
I've viewed your videos many times for help! Thanks!
Great Video - I have seen so many times people dropping 2" screws into drywall because they think it'll hold better or what not. I like the idea of that EZ Guard, but thats a lot of force being applied prior to hitting that guard, think I would stick with a plate over that [I actually set the depth on my planer and cut the edge so my drywall doesnt push out over the plate] - also, your confidence at 0:28 drilling and that pipe on the other side is impressive, I always get overly cautious in that scenario lol
EZ Guard also would work for protecting PEX plumbing. They're pretty slick but I'm somewhat cheap and likely just use a plate as I can install them after the fact.
I wish they made a variation that you could install afterwards. Just put the seam facing down, seems to me.
@@burts6896 I don't see why a two-parter that snaps around the wire then slides into the stud wouldn't work...
You'd need full access to the wall cavity, but it'd work...
This was a product ad? COMMON MAN!!!!
DIY
those inserts are great!
I always aim for The middle of any stud. Only floor & ceiling joists do I change that up.
I use rule of thirds. You cannot drill into the outer third of any stud. So for a 4-inch stud, you cannot use the outer 1.33 inch on either side, which complies w/ the stricter standard stated in the video, and scales up for safety in larger studs.
Except a 2X4 is actually 3.5" wide, so it would only be 1.166" each third. Close, and obviously your rule of thumb still covers the 1.25" code.
I've not seen "centerline" mentioned anywhere for hole placement in a stud. Using reasonable sized bits of 5/8 to 3/4 diam (for 3 wire romax), it would be damn hard for a competent installer to not be reasonably close to CL by eye only, for any depth of stud. I do stress competent. Seen more than a few contractors where ya, the owner knows what he's doing and maybe the foreman as well, but the off the street guys they hire? It's a gamble. True professionals are a rare beast ..
Thank you for this, your video answered my questions beyond the how to by identifying why and different safety factors
My compliments o a very good and educational video. This short video should be standard viewing on all building code communications. My sincere thanks,
Prior to seeing the video and being a long time builder, I shamefully thought I knew everything. Again, I say thank you!
As great of the idea of the EZ guard is, having that big lip on either end prevents you using them in the double top plates, or anywhere where a king and jack stud may be used, Southwire makes a similar product but has a couple of ears on one side to grip the wood, or even snap off if need be when running into a 3 or more stud scenario
Oh I like those 'Easy Guards.' I have seen drywall screws go through Nail Plates, and I hate how Nail Plates stand off from the stud (in the past I have countersunk nail plates just to keep things perfectly flat LOL.
Someone could probably make a bit of money selling a nail plate mortice tool. Might save some time in high end construction where drywall lumps are unacceptable.
No, you haven't seen a drywall screw go through a nail plate. In order to penetrate a nail plate with a drywall screw, which is minimum 1/16" thick solid steel, one would have to drive the screw which would stop instantly once it hit the plate. Then, knowing they've hit something while the screw continues to spin, they'd have to continue drilling/driving and pushing hard on the back of the screw gun for ate least 5- 8 seconds, probably longer than 10 seconds, during which time the drywall screw tip will have dulled down to a flat spot. maybe, eventually, it would penetrate but unlikely given the laws of physics. I hear all the time people claiming they or someone they know easily penetrated a nail plate. You're all lying, neither you or your supposed friend did, unless you're such a goof that you kept pushing and pushing until 10-15 seconds later the screw went in. Typical online bs. Drywall screws do not penetrate nail plates. It's a fact.
Wow! EZ Guard, Brilliant invention. These are the type of things I wish I thought of first 😂😂
In the UK wiring can only be run in "prescribed zones". These are: within 150mm of the ceiling, within 150mm of any corner, within vertical/ horizontal alignment with a switch or outlet. You cannot just run wires along the middle of a wall.
"Unprotected" wiring?
@@JimWhitaker If the cable cannot be run in a prescribed zone the following apply:
1. The cable must be over 50mm below the surface. If the wall is made from metal then it will need RCD protection (In the UK the whole circuit has RCD/GFCI protection not just the outlet), or
2. The cable should be armoured with an earthed armour or metal sheath, or
3. The cable should be in metal trunking or conduit which is earthed or,
4. It should have protection from at least 3mm steel (for whole cable, not just at the studs)
Didn't know about the last option - - the cable guide collars. Very cool. Thanks.
Damn... oldschool. Thats how we would do it 100 years ago in the Netherlands. You should check out our central box system. Way better and easier for maintenance.
I've gotta think a screw being shot in through a stud with an impact drill would make short work of the round tubes if it hit it somewhat square. At least the plates being on the other side of drywall wouldn't let you get the screw started into wood.
Pretty much but even that is underestimating the power of drivers, they’d send a self tapper through those plates in a second or two even if there is weight behind it.. unless they are hardened plates, which I doubt, the sleeves do look slightly hardened though, just eyeballing them
@samwilliams1517 The nailing plates I use are hardened. I also abide by the setback from the stud surface. As far as stud structural integrity? I recently gutted a 1950's bathroom that ran a large diameter galvanized pipe as an air vent. About 70% of the stud width was compromised. The only saving grace was the staggered floor structure, where those stud functioned more as wall nailer, there was a 12" beam above those compromised studs. The original plumber either knew this or got lucky.
When removing sides from 2 x 4 boxes to make multi-gang switches, I save the side plates to make nail guards. Just hammer them flat.
lol... a professional on This Old House youTube channel recently made a wiring video, and you, a non-professional, produced a much more informed video than what they posted. You even answered a question in the comments section that no one there answered with the ez-gaurd! Too awesome! Made my day!
We are here to help 👍 Thanks for the feedback and support!
The EZ guard may not be code, so verify before using it.
an overlength screw will drive right through those easyguards. the nailplates mostly work because screws will not have enough grip in sheetrock to drive through them, and hand driven nails will bounce back. I've seen gun driven nails go right through nailplates, and I've seen screws and nails driven right through steel conduit in cases where it was in a hole in wood that prevented the nail or screw from deflecting off.
I'd think one advantage of the EZ guards is that if you don't hit dead center a nail or screw has a decent chance of being deflected or deforming the tube (which will protect the cable from penetration). Of course the type of nail or screw is going to matter.
@@suedenim9208 if it didn't have wood keeping the nail or screw in line, it might.
So, what's the solution? We have a war between those fastening drywall and those seeking safe electrical wiring...
@@marktwain368 first, don't be lazy and drill too close to the surface. and second, don't be lazy and use the wrong fasteners, so when the electrician and plumber don't have any alternative, the nailplates will do their job.
Wow! These are really cool! I’ve seen other metal insert designs that just pop in, but these would work awesome in a remodel or especially a HT style room because the plastic bushing would help any sound related issues plus pretext the wires and maybe even have some efi interference blocking properties! 🎉very cool!
Great video! I wish I would have watched this 6 months ago when I was rewiring my house with new CAT6A Ethernet wiring.
I was skeptical at first having worked in electrical but the video is great and i gave it a thumbs up.
Thanks John 👍
I learnt something today. Darn it, too late though. Now on the back side of the 70s wish I knew this about 50 years ago. Never too late to learn though. Excellent video.
Save big money at menards!
I try to avoid making 1 1/8” holes whenever I can, especially in renovation work. A few of these in support members and you’ve got yourself Swiss cheese for strength.
Nicely explained video. It looked to me like the first hole you drilled was within 1 1/4" of the other side of the stud. I assume that code requires that distance on both sides in case somebody put a screw in from the other side, not just the side with the drywall off.? The EZ guards are cool, but I wish they made them for a smaller hole size. I would think that a 3/4" hole would be adequate. That's the size hole I drill for 1/2" EMT. I don't like drilling out 1 1/8 inches of stud even though it meets code. I would probably use both a nailing plate AND a 3/4" EZ guard to protect the wire really well from one side and good enough from the other. I guess you could make your own EZ guard from 1/2" EMT except for the integrated plastic bushing. If there was space, you could make your own bushing with two EMT set screw connectors and the off the shelf plastic bushings that go with those.
Good info. I don't like those hammer on plates though since they hold the drywall a good 1/8" off the stud in those spots. Love the Menards whole inserts instead.
I'm in The Bronx NYC. Sorry no Maynard's near us. Great video's. Keep up the video's.
In some jurisdiction the code requires a metal shield to protect the wire.
Interesting that you say that. I was looking at a job in New Hanover County NC that had passed the electrical inspection. After observing several nail plates missing I sent photos to an electrical inspector. His reply "I will call the electrician and tell him to install them" Guess he didn't want to see for himself or follow up to see if the guards were installed.
Perfect. I need to do this. You’re seriously a very good educator
My drywall skills are passable at best, so nailing plates are the bane of my existence. EZ GUARDS will be mandatory on all my projects from here on out for the sake of my sanity.
So you are going to rewire your house just to put drywall up?
@@MAGAMAN Do you understand "from here on out"? Going forward? From now on?
I like the EZ guard because it gives you protection on the side that you did not open up, and it does not interfere with the drywall installation.
Nice video and very informative. I didn't know about the EZ Guards before now and I'll use them from now on. Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the feedback Brian.
The powers that be worry about the project side of the stud but neglect the other side of stud, lol. I've always used the stud plates on both sides of possible. The easy guards are an excellent all around solution. Anyhow, your videos are always good and enlightening.
In my country you only see conduit or cable with metal sleeving. The romex cable is not allowed here. Also like in Sweden we try to run only vertical wires in walls which has the advantage of not going trough studs and when you see a outlet or switch you know that straight above it is a vertical conduit never have to guess where your powerlines are. Electrical is going from outlet or switch preferred to go up. Water and other things have preferred going down from the tap to the floor. This also minimizes the conflict of having different things have to cross eachother in walls.
Thanks for sharing this; in Canada we do what Americans do, but your system makes perfect sense.
American construction and electrical systems should really take a look at how it’s done in europe (at least in scandinavia). First of all:
1. wires/cables are run through flexible pvc tubes (16-20mm). This makes it easier to change wires/cables for rehab or damage.
2. For each stud and hole, we use a half moon shaped metal spoon (best way to explain it) that is hammered in between the pvc tube and hole. This protects the wires/cables/pvc tube, and screws/nails easily bends aside without breaking. They also clamp and holds the flexible pvc pipe nice and tight for easy feeding of wires/cables.
Good stuff.
So you know, the EZ Electrical System Solutions, LLC EZ Guard Single Stud Electrical Wire mentioned here are now $1.17 each on Amazon (07.15.23).
Hmm, would these be big enough to protect PEX? I've got 70 year old galvanized that I'll be replacing myself this fall, and protecting that soft plastic tube sounds like a winner to me.
I like how he's sitting in a cabinet. Also, great video
The liner seems like a bad idea... because if you put a long screw, it will hit the wood and will feel just right till you hit metal, so you may just keep drilling thinking it is just a knot and still go through... at least metal plate on the surface gives you instant feedback.
2 cents for plate, 2 dollars for liner. I'll take the bad idea for 100.
The problem isn't a long screw, because a self tapping wood screw isn't going to penetrate the metal. The problem is when drilling like for wall anchors. Most wall anchors aren't that deep unless they are made for putting into just drywall. Then you have the type which grip the back of the drywall for extra strength and if you find there is a stud there, you wouldn't use that type. If you're using standard wall anchors, you want them to grip the wood because that's very strong. If you are drilling for those and you hit something hard, it's best not to just push through. Find out what it is. If you are aware of these, you can get a slender magnet and see if it sticks.
@@kenmore01 but that requires sence... idiot proof solutions are better IMHO. I can can see some yahoo drilling out "cuz something got stuck down there"
@@sigor2011 Sadly, there is no such thing as idiot proof lol.
@@sigor2011 That said, I do agree with you. Unfortunately, running Romex through wall studs is always a compromise.
I had not run across ez guards before... but there is no Menards in my state. These are a great idea: a long nail is going to hit the curved barrel and just deflect.
I find it rather funny that we are back to putting tubes in the studs to protect wires, just like the old knob and tube systems of days past.
Very nice! I didn't even know those inserts existed. I will be using them, exclusively, now. thanks!
Thank you, for the EZ to understand solutions.
Wow, have never seen these EZ Guard protectors before but they look really interesting. I remember when I built my house I was always concerned about hitting things (wires & pipes) with drywall screws. I used a lot of protector plates where plumbing was concerned but not so much for the wiring which I tried to make certain was in the middle of the stud. However it always made me nervous considering my cedar siding was being nailed onto the 1/2" plywood wall sheathing with 2.5" ring shank nails. Never did hit anything fortunately but these things guards would have made me sleep easier.
When doing a homeowner project, the best way is to start is with informative RUclips videos and studying the correct wiring methods. The best way to avoid issues with your building, electrical or plumbing inspectors is to bypass the permit process. NO permit, means NO inspectors.
I’m near Chicago and the conduit rule is definitely a pain, but I will say that I can always drill confidently that I’ll never hit an electrical line.
I’ve seen EMT drilled with sharp point drywall screws on multiple different occasions. And with today’s impact drivers, don’t be too confident.
Just a water pipe.
chicago is a dump
Another well explained video Scott! Darn it you cost me some more money. Now I need to go out and buy some of those inserts and speed bore bits. : ) Keep up the good videos. Proud of myself in that I had some of those inline Wagos before you demonstrated them.
The funny thing is here in the Netherlands you aren't "allowed" to run wire bare in the wall they need to at least be shielded by PVC pipes. Also since the majority of the houses are brick/concrete even inside. we tend to use a metal detector if we don't know how the electrical runs. So yeah we kinda look strange at the little safety regulations US building code has. Heck if you can't show if a certified electrician inspected your group box handy work you are basically not insured when your house burns down.
Romex isn't bare. It's double insulated.
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists And still the way it's built in the video you would as a professional be stripped of your license here. Building codes are a fair bit stricter here.
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists That's not what he said. There needs be additional mechanical protection, alongside the outer and basic insulation of the cable.
@@robertbritton656 I understand what he means. Former code was to use steel conduit. Not so much anymore unless in commercial.
He means unprotected by metal sheath (conduit or BX)@@Guillotines_For_Globalists
I thought that there were some jurisdictions where you couldn't run Romex higher than N inches from the floor in order to avoid issues with people hanging shelves, etc.? But I have to say, the Hold Inserts (EZ Guard) seem very cool!
Wow ! This Old House just posted an episode 24 hours after yours showing the exact same thing. I feel your video was better 😎👍
Would love to see a video on how to fix creaky floors. With carpet, tile and even lament flooring. (yes, my house has all three issues!)
This Old House has Tom Silva demonstrating exactly what you seek.
Do we have something to fix creaky marriages? Would be in high demand in some localities!
In Italy we use flexible tube with flexible wires.. much better IMHO! You can change whatever you want whenever you want without reopen the dry wall.
I like those guards, especially in places that might have shelves hung. For those blind corners, I like to fish string thru and tape it to the end of the wire. That's sometimes easier to fish the wire around the corner if I drill the smaller holes.
"Save big money with Menards" Moved to AZ from MN and I miss the place.
Same here, FLA now. Menard's was great place to shop for groceries, too.
We live in Michigan and Meijer Supermarket is near Menards. Two great stores
I started in home building in 1977. We drilled all holes at 24” and never drilled screws in at that height. If there were exceptions, they were noted for any that needed. Nail plates were invented for the hacks building homes today.
70s homes were awful.
Nailer plates are absolutely required by code. And in the decades since that they've been required, they've never saved anyone from putting a screw through romex, ever. Those little protectors do look like a nice alternative, though. Meets code, doesn't get in the way of the drywallers. For old construction, you just use a flex bit and fish the wire, no code requirement for nailers for fished wire added later...otherwise you'd have to take half a house apart to run a new light. I do like those tri-wing stubby irwin bits, though!
You're wrong. Nail plates absolutely stop screws, every time you hit one.
@5:00 you can actually notch the corner if your unable to get your bit innto there to drill both sides and use the nail guard to comply with codes instead of having to get two straight drill holes or two 45's
It's always better to have the wire in the center of the wall, not up against the drywall. With it in the center, a nail or screw will more than likely put the wire out of the way, but if it is against the drywall, the screw will more likely go through the wire. I would also make sure you check code in your area, because notching the stud for wire may not be code in a lot of places.
I try to never go across studs if can reasonable help it, I come down the stud to the box back up into attic or other space back down another stud bay to a box etc. Have more issues with something hitting a wire mid bay than down next to a stud, homeowners not knowing better heck even other trades. But really like this vid showing best practices regardless.
Thanks for the video, needing to install a transfer switch in an unfinished garage... can a conduit go over the stud as per code? how close 2 holes can be drilled in a stud...is there code related to that as I have a romex running closer to that spot. thanks.
5:20 how do you add a nail plate to the other side of the stud? I am assuming there is a finished wall on the other side and someone might want to add a shelf, chair rail, or anchor a dresser for example.
In the majority of cases you wouldn't add a plate to the other side. That is one of the major reasons I like those EZ Guards.
Not just the City of Chicago but all the suburbs and most of the rest of Illinois require conduit. Local municipalities adopt the NEC and then delete the section involving Romex. Seems mostly universal throughout the state, even though the home centers sell it. His area must be an outlier. Having grown up using conduit for many decades I would not feel comfortable using Romex. Old habits.
What if you cut 3 studs in a row, in half all the way through and another right beside them, cut a 3 inch hole in a 3 1/2 inch stud for pluming. This in an outside wall with the weight of the roof rafters and the ceiling rafters, that wall was supporting. Would that be a good idea? I did not do this, but I discover someone indeed did this when I was remodeling. When I fixed it, I had to jack up the wall 1/2 inch for the new studs.
Teenage me hanging a shelf in my bedroom: "Dammit! Why won't the screw go in any further?" **proceeds to get drill bit to drill through guard plate.
It even happens on a commercial jobsite.
I was working beside a crew of Hondurans shitrock hangers and they forced screws through all the guard plates in every kitchenette of a hotel renovation. When they turned on the water, every floor leaked. The company "owner" disowned them all since they were all undocumented illegals getting paid under the table. Only use bonded and insured (ask for proof) contractors.
Get a bookshelf, dude! No wall mounting required!