rk3designs.com || Do you like adding that metallic dust to your flood coats? We have Diamond Dust, Gold Dust, Bronze Dust, Chrome Dust, Red Rock Dust, and more!
I just did my first countertop with black dye and black glitter for the base, then chopped in some violet pearl with silver and diamond dust, and it turned out awesome! Not perfect there was some divets like you said with the alcohol I sprayed, but I'm glad it will be filled in with the top coat! Learned a lot from your videos! Thank you!
This lady is very helpful..gave me some confidence to do a small countertop for a camper..did black and bronze "marbleish" design with just a tiny bit of gold.. though bottom of my edges have a lip(cannot round the bottom due to how this counter is) now need to flood coat clear. Thinking of adding just a tiny tiny bit of antique gold into it to add something else to it...hoping i dont sand through the color on the bottom edge.
Hi Rhonda , you realise so fantastic counter tops. I follow your posts and make efforts to understand each explanation you give because i am french leaving in Paris. I don t have enough money to do all with epoxy , but i want something to resist to my kids ....can i use a primer on my existant granit stone surface , then apply a good paint to make marble design with veines and finally apply epoxy to protect the whole . What do you think . ? Wich of your last protection do you recommand to get a strong gloss surface ? Thanks a lot for your answer 🙏 have a good we 🐓
Hello. Yes you can paint over granite. Make sure you use a bonding primer first, then paint your design. I’m not sure what epoxy products you can get in your area. Look for a table top coating epoxy.
I'm going to be starting a new epoxy project soon for my home office! I'm curious where you get those thick MDF boards at? I was just going to use some IKEA kitchen countertops. I think I've watched at least 100 videos on this and am so excited to do this! Thanks so much for all of your helpful tutorials 😁
Rhonda - When you've added an additional coat to the edges by hand, do you wait to sand that edge before the main flood pour or do you pour when the edges are tacky? Thanks so much.
Unfortunately there’s a sever shortage of Urethane world wide which is one of the main components in the UTC. We sell it on our site but are shipped limited quantities each time. Just keep checking back on the website www.RK3Designs.com
Great video loved it! Question for you please we are working on some charchertie boards and we can't figure out why with our flood coat we are getting craters and fish eyes. We sanded and cleaned the surface but still are getting a bad finish. Any advice is greatly appreciated
Thank you for the great review!, i have been out of tha action for a little bit. Doing ocean scean tabĺes tops for a pizza shop hear on Emerald Isĺe NC thanks again Stan ❤
I love your videos. After watching this I tried doing a flood coat on an epoxy coffee table with rounded over edges. I actually tried doing it two times, and both times I got drip marks that formed on all 4 sides of my table. I’m not talking about drips themselves, but the tapered marks that lead down to the drips. Do you ever get them? How do you fix them or avoid them?
Hi Rhonda. Have you ever tried to use the tape dam method around the edges for the flood coat just like the dirty pour color coats to keep more epoxy on the surface to make it a little thicker as well as the edges? I have never tried it, but wondered if it would work. What are your thoughts? Also, do you have a video of the color recipe for this particular piece you are working with? I looks great from what I can see of it. Thanks!!
I have used tape in my flood coat but you’ll need to use more epoxy per square foot so when it thickens you’ll have enough product to run over the edge. I don’t have a video out on RUclips with this finish. I did it on my FB page. I’ll be doing one soon. 😊
One problem I have, I don't always get a good glass top flood coat. Therefore, I waste so much epoxy, by having to do another coat...It gets sometimes not really waves, but just little divits, to where you want to touch it, just breaking the surface, or torch it, anything to get one or more of these out...to only getting a bigger disaster, by doing it either too late, or now having a bigger imperfection. Could it be that I am not using enough product? Because i never go by a chart, lol, no judging...so maybe I am not using enough product, or maybe is it possible too much product? I will be waiting for this answer...this is not for counter tops, this is for either making samples, or art work. Thanks so much, I love watching your videos and cant wait for the day to come and see you, taking a class!!!
Do I absolutely have to sand prior to doing a flood epoxy topcoat? I used Giani sponge paint granite kit and am happy with end results and ready for top coat.
I created a faux copper finish with the hammered coper and other paints, no epoxy. It is fully dry, over 30 days. I want to do the flood coat, then the ultimate top coat to get a matte, food safe, durable finish. However, I am leery of sanding prior to the flood coat, as it seems it would create a mess of my carefully applied faux finish. What do you suggest? Thanks!
For Art Resin epoxy they suggest 60 grit, but I wonder if that’s too excessive or not necessary ? I use art r4sin with my mixed media art on panel . Yes some of my art can’t really be sanded prior due to the image transfers I’m starting to do . I smudged a test piece because of that issue and had to re do that part. The idea fo doing next or flood coat while tacky is a good tip. Art resin cures in 24hrs also. Problem is though I have to peel away the transfer film at 24 hrs so I have to spray a fixative spray and do more embellishments that will give the tooth or spray coat with something that has a bit of a grit after the fixative varnish . With my test adding embellishments and the sprays eliminated my need to sand .
Rhonda, if i used the Isop Alcohol in my design, AND the Montana Spray -- can i just do my flood coat over that and NOT sand? or should i get like a 500 grit to lightly sand?
I use UTC for a variety of reasons. Stonecoat epoxy is already FDA approved for food handling and is very scratch resistant. The UTC takes it to even a high degree of durability. It’s high scratch, stain and heat resistance is incredible. We no longer install countertops without it. 😊.
@rk3designs I've been seeing a lot of videos recently from Stonecoat where they show and talked about doing the color coat and the next day they come back and they do the ultimate top coat and it seems like they are skipping this flood coat. Is that the new method that we should be following? I'm helping my friend do their kitchen today and we are ready to do the flood coat if we're supposed to do it or we can go right to the ultimate top coat.
Another option is to use a product like 'Duplicolor Adhesion Promoter' - a spray clear that is used on automotive plastic (particularly detailed plastic parts that are difficult to sand everywhere) - atop a sensitive piece that needs a flow coat.
Thanks for sharing. I would want to know before I applied that to a countertop, what the heat resistant would be as well as if it were FDA approved for food handling. Also, how scratch resistant is it?
@@RK3Designs The purpose of an adhesion promoter isn't to resist scratches; it's to replace the need to scuff before applying a flow coat if you've allowed a piece with a top coat of conventional paint to fully dry, and you don't want to affect the surface before applying a top coat of clear. On the topic of a rolled-on final protective coating, however: have you ever attempted to apply it with HVLP spray equipment, to remove the texture that a roller leaves? I wonder how smooth and optically clear you can get that final gloss top coat if you applied it in that manner, rather than using rollers.
Hello, am a new comer to resin art and your channel. What was the hand held sander. I went to Home Depot they did not have any such sander. They had paper but not the handle. Thanks for your help.
Here ya go. 😊 Tockrop 2 Pack 5 Inch Hand Sanding Blocks Round and Mouse-Shaped for 5 Inch Hook and Loop discs Ideal For Wood Furniture Restoration Home Arts and Crafts www.amazon.com/dp/B07XXNRJ15/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZCEB7PKZ9VS4NVW7MDFC
Great tutorials!!! So on THIS specific video on flood coat, what are the colors you used, or do you have a video where you poured thus specific one for me to watch? This is pretty much EXACTLY what I want our countertops to look like!!! Beautiful
@@RK3Designs is there a way to put a link to the RUclips channel? It doesn't like to play live on FB since it's been over a long time... if not, I do understand... I do love to watch you...again, very very informative on your tutorials!!
Hi I love your work and how you teach. I wanted to ask a question. Can I use quick coat to seal my art work? I do paint pouring and want to learn resin. I thought quick coating some of my art pieces would be a good way to start to learn. They will not be out side or in sun. Thanks in advance ☺
@@dianefletcher2076 Don’t worry! You can start with a smaller piece to get the feeling. It will take practice and patience, but it’s another dimension for your art. You’ll love it! Although I’m not using it on every piece. I like my textured art without epoxy
@@FemkeKrock thanks so much. That was my exact thought, start small and get the feel. I really want to do resin art. I know nothing is as easy as it looks lol. Thanks again for your help 💜💜
You’re not going to want to use quick coat if you are pouring over a light colored piece of art. There’s absolutely no UVA protection in the Quick Coat. It was origins designed to fill in gaps and seams. That’s why it cures so fast. It will amber very quickly even if it’s not in the sun. I would suggest using Stonecoat Art Coat. It’s got really high amounts of UV protection. 😊
Rhonda, did you use ART epoxy for this from stonecoat countertops? or just the regular formula?.. i saw one of your videos where you said for whites I should use Art epoxy ..
Make sure the acrylic is 100% dry. Not just to the touch. I usually give it at least a few days. Also make sure you didn’t use any silicon material. This will cause the epoxy to repel. You not going to want to sand so I would just make sure it’s clean and then pour. I would check out Mixed Media Girl on RUclips. She does AMAZING acrylic/resin art!!
I’ve watched many, many videos about how to do a flood coat. Of course, when doing a flood coat there are drips that accumulate on the bottom near the edges. These hard little bumps that need to be addressed. Like your video that is not addressed. The video ends as though you are done. You’re not. How do you clean up the bottom edges to get a professional bottom finish so that the bottom is not ugly. I’ve tried taping the bottom edges with less that satisfactory results. How do you do it?
We can’t address every topic in every video or our videos would be extremely long. We have several videos that address other topics such as mixing, fixing issues, drips etc. short tutorials like this are to inspire you to do different types of designs, not to teach you completely the entire epoxy process in one video. If you ever have particular questions, I’ll be more than happy to talk to you, just give us a call. www.RK3Designs.com
We have attempted 4 times to do our countertops each time we have tried to improve on the smallest details and still we are getting divots in the flood coat. At this point we have spent over $1000 on this product trying to get it right with no luck, the last attempt the flood coat actually turned out the worst of all four attempts. We are out of answers we don’t understand why we are getting this outcome. We have followed directions down to everything imaginable detail with no luck. Three hours into the pour it looks perfect then going into the fourth hour all the divots start showing up and gradually get worse. Any Suggestions
Love your work and videos. I'm a professional artist. I work with multi-medium art. I'm reaching out because I'm stumped. I'm working on an epoxy table. It's 2 3/4" deep, with land, beaches, whales, boats, waves crashing against the shore... I'm 13 layers into it, nearly finished, and I noticed a line. It's about 2 layers below. I've been working on this for over a year, so you can imagine me screaming. All I can think of is to cut into the piece around the area, clean it up, and refill it with epoxy. I'm hoping someone else out there has a better solution. Any ideas, suggestions, or whatever??? Any help will be appreciated greatly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The flooding your project gives your project a protective coating. It also will level out and fill in any imperfections left in the color coat. I highly recommend having a flood coat. 😊
one thing she doesn't mention and maybe her epoxy is less viscus, but I used Super Clear epoxy (great choice btw, it really is super clear) but ALWAYS trowel after the hand method. Otherwise, it'll leave hand tracks where you moved your hand. Like I said, not sure how thin of epoxy she was using but the thicker the epoxy, always trowel.
The Ultimate Top Coat is awful....it has an orange peel like finish...ruined my project......its not glass at like at all, its textured and matte and they don't tell you....I hope I am wrong but seems massively deceiving and morally wrong to promote...most people doing epoxy want a glass like finish not all but in general....the UTC is awful......
It's actually not awful when applied correctly and with my application method. If it were, I wouldn't have applied it to literally 100's of countertops. I've not had 1 single customer not love it. Did you practice or do sample boards or just jump in and do a whole countertop with no experience? How many videos did you watch before you applied the UTC yourself? If you would have done your research, you would have already know that it will not have a "Glass" appearance and that the gloss will have a slight visual texture due to the application method of using a roller. Just like every other gloss topcoat on the market. There was an issue with the bottling, I'm not sure when you purchased your product. The matte was labeled as gloss. I''m not sure if you purchased from my website or not. Either way, I'll be more than happy to replace what you bought if it was mislabeled. You're more than welcome to call or email me at (830) 433-7199.
I have found the ultimate top coat scratches EASY and actually flakes off if you use a fingernail on it? It also is not a gloss; it is a dull shine. The stone like one has particles of texture in it-YUCK. VERY upset as I ave done many counters in my home and that last step destroyed one. Don't use it!
When applied correctly you’ll never have this issue. We applied it to over 300 surfaces and NEVER had a call back or warranty issues. If it scratches with your fingernail, you’ve definitely done something wrong.
![Why You Should NOT Do Epoxy Resin Countertops [Do THIS Instead]](/img/1.gif)
rk3designs.com || Do you like adding that metallic dust to your flood coats? We have Diamond Dust, Gold Dust, Bronze Dust, Chrome Dust, Red Rock Dust, and more!
I have to say, you are by far one of the best teachers out there. Thank you.
You are so sweet. Thank you so much!!
I just did my first countertop with black dye and black glitter for the base, then chopped in some violet pearl with silver and diamond dust, and it turned out awesome! Not perfect there was some divets like you said with the alcohol I sprayed, but I'm glad it will be filled in with the top coat! Learned a lot from your videos! Thank you!
That’s fantastic!!! Good for you!! Thanks for watching!
OMG! Just stumbled on this channel. I am in heaven.
Yeah!!! Thank you!! I appreciate you watching 😊😊
Thank you addressing this issue. You helped me fix the ripples that happens on my rounded edges. I so appreciate you Rhonda.
Thank you so much!!!
I’ve said it before Rhonda you have such informative videos. Thank you so much for all your info and tips and tricks!!! 😊😊
Thank you!!! I appreciate you watching!! 😊😊
This lady is very helpful..gave me some confidence to do a small countertop for a camper..did black and bronze "marbleish" design with just a tiny bit of gold.. though bottom of my edges have a lip(cannot round the bottom due to how this counter is) now need to flood coat clear. Thinking of adding just a tiny tiny bit of antique gold into it to add something else to it...hoping i dont sand through the color on the bottom edge.
You're a wonderful teacher.
Thank you!! 🥰🥰
She really is!!
Very informative follow these instructions and you will succeed
This is really helpful information; thank you so much for so generously sharing your knowledge and encouragement!
You bet!!! 😊
This is a great video! Very informative. Lots of great details. Thank you
fantastic video RK3 Designs. I shattered that thumbs up on your video. Continue to keep up the outstanding work.
Thank you so much!!! I really appreciate you watching and leaving a comment and LIKING!!!! ❤️❤️
Great explanation of why we do flood coats. Thanks! V.
You bet. Thanks for watching. 😊
Layers are really neat
Thank you!!!
Terrific video with some very good information. Thanks for posting 😊
Thank you for all information..i have start take a note for myself..🙏🙏
Very informative. Thank you for explaining the different processes
Hi Rhonda , you realise so fantastic counter tops. I follow your posts and make efforts to understand each explanation you give because i am french leaving in Paris.
I don t have enough money to do all with epoxy , but i want something to resist to my kids ....can i use a primer on my existant granit stone surface , then apply a good paint to make marble design with veines and finally apply epoxy to protect the whole . What do you think .
? Wich of your last protection do you recommand to get a strong gloss surface ? Thanks a lot for your answer 🙏 have a good we 🐓
Hello. Yes you can paint over granite. Make sure you use a bonding primer first, then paint your design. I’m not sure what epoxy products you can get in your area. Look for a table top coating epoxy.
How did I just find ya?? Incredible video. Thank you!
Thank you!!! I’m glad you did 😊😊
Thank u so much for wonderful information 💖 ❤️ lots of love
I'm going to be starting a new epoxy project soon for my home office! I'm curious where you get those thick MDF boards at? I was just going to use some IKEA kitchen countertops. I think I've watched at least 100 videos on this and am so excited to do this! Thanks so much for all of your helpful tutorials 😁
We use 3/4 in MDF then custom build You can get MDF at most lumber stores and Home Depot.
You are the best. Thank you so for the the tips and trick
Rhonda - When you've added an additional coat to the edges by hand, do you wait to sand that edge before the main flood pour or do you pour when the edges are tacky? Thanks so much.
It’s done when the flood pour is done. Don’t wait til it’s tacky. Do it while it’s wet.
Wow thank you soooooo much!! I was going to leave a fan on, so glad I watched this. Also love that I can use my hand!! You are a wonderful teacher!!
Thanks for the info. Wish I could get some of that ultimate top coat. Always out of stock.
Unfortunately there’s a sever shortage of Urethane world wide which is one of the main components in the UTC. We sell it on our site but are shipped limited quantities each time. Just keep checking back on the website www.RK3Designs.com
Wonderfully informative!! 👏👏
Thanks 😊😊😊
@@RK3Designs You are quite welcome!! 🤗😍
I love this piece! Do you have a video on doing this?
Great video loved it! Question for you please we are working on some charchertie boards and we can't figure out why with our flood coat we are getting craters and fish eyes. We sanded and cleaned the surface but still are getting a bad finish. Any advice is greatly appreciated
It's like a painting picture final varnish.
Thanks for this Rhonda! When do you anticipate getting the Ultimate Top Coat in stock?
Thank you for the great review!, i have been out of tha action for a little bit. Doing ocean scean tabĺes tops for a pizza shop hear on Emerald Isĺe NC thanks again Stan ❤
I love your videos. After watching this I tried doing a flood coat on an epoxy coffee table with rounded over edges. I actually tried doing it two times, and both times I got drip marks that formed on all 4 sides of my table. I’m not talking about drips themselves, but the tapered marks that lead down to the drips. Do you ever get them? How do you fix them or avoid them?
Those are caused by surface tension. If you run your hand around the edge as the epoxy starts to roll over, it will help it run over more easily.
@@RK3Designs thanks. I really appreciate your help
Thanks Rhonda
I wondered what xylene was?🤨
Patricia
Pretty good tutorial. Everyone familiar with the product can't teach.👍🏿
I appreciate that!
Hi Rhonda. Have you ever tried to use the tape dam method around the edges for the flood coat just like the dirty pour color coats to keep more epoxy on the surface to make it a little thicker as well as the edges? I have never tried it, but wondered if it would work. What are your thoughts? Also, do you have a video of the color recipe for this particular piece you are working with? I looks great from what I can see of it. Thanks!!
I have used tape in my flood coat but you’ll need to use more epoxy per square foot so when it thickens you’ll have enough product to run over the edge. I don’t have a video out on RUclips with this finish. I did it on my FB page. I’ll be doing one soon. 😊
Excellent
One problem I have, I don't always get a good glass top flood coat. Therefore, I waste so much epoxy, by having to do another coat...It gets sometimes not really waves, but just little divits, to where you want to touch it, just breaking the surface, or torch it, anything to get one or more of these out...to only getting a bigger disaster, by doing it either too late, or now having a bigger imperfection. Could it be that I am not using enough product? Because i never go by a chart, lol, no judging...so maybe I am not using enough product, or maybe is it possible too much product? I will be waiting for this answer...this is not for counter tops, this is for either making samples, or art work. Thanks so much, I love watching your videos and cant wait for the day to come and see you, taking a class!!!
Do I absolutely have to sand prior to doing a flood epoxy topcoat? I used Giani sponge paint granite kit and am happy with end results and ready for top coat.
Sanding will help create a mechanical bond and adhesion. As long as your surface isn’t too slick you should be ok.
Thanks for the video/info
You bet
I created a faux copper finish with the hammered coper and other paints, no epoxy. It is fully dry, over 30 days. I want to do the flood coat, then the ultimate top coat to get a matte, food safe, durable finish. However, I am leery of sanding prior to the flood coat, as it seems it would create a mess of my carefully applied faux finish. What do you suggest? Thanks!
Could you tell me please if you can use foil wrapping paper for small jobs, thank you xx
You could but you’ll want to use a good adhesive and make sure you don’t reap any air bubbles. 😊
Can i get quote for uto do my kitchen and bathrooms?
Email me. Rk3designs@gmail.com Where do you live?
For Art Resin epoxy they suggest 60 grit, but I wonder if that’s too excessive or not necessary ? I use art r4sin with my mixed media art on panel . Yes some of my art can’t really be sanded prior due to the image transfers I’m starting to do . I smudged a test piece because of that issue and had to re do that part. The idea fo doing next or flood coat while tacky is a good tip. Art resin cures in 24hrs also. Problem is though I have to peel away the transfer film at 24 hrs so I have to spray a fixative spray and do more embellishments that will give the tooth or spray coat with something that has a bit of a grit after the fixative varnish . With my test adding embellishments and the sprays eliminated my need to sand .
I’m thinking yes. I’ve never done that process. Let me know how it turn out. 😊
Rhonda, if i used the Isop Alcohol in my design, AND the Montana Spray -- can i just do my flood coat over that and NOT sand? or should i get like a 500 grit to lightly sand?
and i do have some slight slight teeny bumps from the Montana Spray -- not very noticeable at all -- ?
I'm super nervous to use the Xylene, i think i would rather just use a ighter sanding and go with that?
Does any warp happen to the wood when applying the flood coat?
Can I do a 2nd flood coat or add to a spot that was missed?
Absolutely!!
Do you not just use ultimate topcoat for making it food safe and give it a protective layer?
I use UTC for a variety of reasons. Stonecoat epoxy is already FDA approved for food handling and is very scratch resistant. The UTC takes it to even a high degree of durability. It’s high scratch, stain and heat resistance is incredible. We no longer install countertops without it. 😊.
@@RK3Designs thank you so much for taking a moment to answer. Your channel is a wealth of information.
@@rockcandyepoxyproducts4918 you are very welcome!! 😊😊
@rk3designs I've been seeing a lot of videos recently from Stonecoat where they show and talked about doing the color coat and the next day they come back and they do the ultimate top coat and it seems like they are skipping this flood coat. Is that the new method that we should be following? I'm helping my friend do their kitchen today and we are ready to do the flood coat if we're supposed to do it or we can go right to the ultimate top coat.
How long do I have to wait after color coat before I can pour my top coat?
24 hours
If you do the extra coating on the edges, then should you wait 10-12 hours before completing the full flood coat?
I have the same question!!!
Can you just use a certain kind of home interior paint to tint your epoxy to get an opaque finish?
Another option is to use a product like 'Duplicolor Adhesion Promoter' - a spray clear that is used on automotive plastic (particularly detailed plastic parts that are difficult to sand everywhere) - atop a sensitive piece that needs a flow coat.
Thanks for sharing. I would want to know before I applied that to a countertop, what the heat resistant would be as well as if it were FDA approved for food handling. Also, how scratch resistant is it?
@@RK3Designs The purpose of an adhesion promoter isn't to resist scratches; it's to replace the need to scuff before applying a flow coat if you've allowed a piece with a top coat of conventional paint to fully dry, and you don't want to affect the surface before applying a top coat of clear.
On the topic of a rolled-on final protective coating, however: have you ever attempted to apply it with HVLP spray equipment, to remove the texture that a roller leaves? I wonder how smooth and optically clear you can get that final gloss top coat if you applied it in that manner, rather than using rollers.
Hello, am a new comer to resin art and your channel. What was the hand held sander. I went to Home Depot they did not have any such sander. They had paper but not the handle. Thanks for your help.
Here ya go. 😊
Tockrop 2 Pack 5 Inch Hand Sanding Blocks Round and Mouse-Shaped for 5 Inch Hook and Loop discs Ideal For Wood Furniture Restoration Home Arts and Crafts www.amazon.com/dp/B07XXNRJ15/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZCEB7PKZ9VS4NVW7MDFC
Great tutorials!!! So on THIS specific video on flood coat, what are the colors you used, or do you have a video where you poured thus specific one for me to watch? This is pretty much EXACTLY what I want our countertops to look like!!! Beautiful
@@Weeone5207 hey!! We did this in one of our Tuesday Night LIVES. Here’s the link. 😊. fb.watch/76kWff7vhe/
@@RK3Designs awesome, thanks
@@RK3Designs is there a way to put a link to the RUclips channel? It doesn't like to play live on FB since it's been over a long time... if not, I do understand... I do love to watch you...again, very very informative on your tutorials!!
Hi I love your work and how you teach. I wanted to ask a question. Can I use quick coat to seal my art work? I do paint pouring and want to learn resin. I thought quick coating some of my art pieces would be a good way to start to learn. They will not be out side or in sun. Thanks in advance ☺
Yes you can. Just use the basic epoxy. I make and finish Art all the time with epoxy (Droomkunst)
@@FemkeKrock I bought the quick coat from stonecoat counter tops. Last month because it has a shorter working time. Just nervous to start 😬 😅
@@dianefletcher2076 Don’t worry! You can start with a smaller piece to get the feeling. It will take practice and patience, but it’s another dimension for your art. You’ll love it! Although I’m not using it on every piece. I like my textured art without epoxy
@@FemkeKrock thanks so much. That was my exact thought, start small and get the feel. I really want to do resin art. I know nothing is as easy as it looks lol. Thanks again for your help 💜💜
You’re not going to want to use quick coat if you are pouring over a light colored piece of art. There’s absolutely no UVA protection in the Quick Coat. It was origins designed to fill in gaps and seams. That’s why it cures so fast. It will amber very quickly even if it’s not in the sun. I would suggest using Stonecoat Art Coat. It’s got really high amounts of UV protection. 😊
What color do I have do to make the white not so bright white
Rhonda, did you use ART epoxy for this from stonecoat countertops? or just the regular formula?.. i saw one of your videos where you said for whites I should use Art epoxy ..
Yes I did use the art coat from Stonecoat Countertops. If ever do you anything white, I always grab the art coat 😊
How do you sand a serface that has large orange peel spots, like divots?
How do you prepare an acrylic pour painting for an epoxy finish?
Make sure the acrylic is 100% dry. Not just to the touch. I usually give it at least a few days. Also make sure you didn’t use any silicon material. This will cause the epoxy to repel. You not going to want to sand so I would just make sure it’s clean and then pour. I would check out Mixed Media Girl on RUclips. She does AMAZING acrylic/resin art!!
@@RK3Designs Thank you 😊
How 2 add luminous paint, before flood?
What do if you have sharp corners to keep opxy on corners
I’ve watched many, many videos about how to do a flood coat. Of course, when doing a flood coat there are drips that accumulate on the bottom near the edges. These hard little bumps that need to be addressed. Like your video that is not addressed. The video ends as though you are done. You’re not. How do you clean up the bottom edges to get a professional bottom finish so that the bottom is not ugly. I’ve tried taping the bottom edges with less that satisfactory results. How do you do it?
We can’t address every topic in every video or our videos would be extremely long. We have several videos that address other topics such as mixing, fixing issues, drips etc. short tutorials like this are to inspire you to do different types of designs, not to teach you completely the entire epoxy process in one video. If you ever have particular questions, I’ll be more than happy to talk to you, just give us a call. www.RK3Designs.com
How do you fix a cloudy or hazy flood coat
Where y'all located would love to take a class
Awesome. We are in Seguin, Texas. Just East of San Antonio.
Hi do you treat the underside
i did a seal coat with montana can but now i need to sand is it possible to do it without damaging too much the design?
You can very lightly sand just enough to rough up the surface. Won’t need much.
@@RK3Designs thanks for the quick reply i did a quick sand with 220 and result is amazing!!
We have attempted 4 times to do our countertops each time we have tried to improve on the smallest details and still we are getting divots in the flood coat. At this point we have spent over $1000 on this product trying to get it right with no luck, the last attempt the flood coat actually turned out the worst of all four attempts. We are out of answers we don’t understand why we are getting this outcome. We have followed directions down to everything imaginable detail with no luck. Three hours into the pour it looks perfect then going into the fourth hour all the divots start showing up and gradually get worse. Any Suggestions
Give me a call tomorrow 830-433-7199.
Love your work and videos. I'm a professional artist. I work with multi-medium art. I'm reaching out because I'm stumped. I'm working on an epoxy table. It's 2 3/4" deep, with land, beaches, whales, boats, waves crashing against the shore... I'm 13 layers into it, nearly finished, and I noticed a line. It's about 2 layers below. I've been working on this for over a year, so you can imagine me screaming. All I can think of is to cut into the piece around the area, clean it up, and refill it with epoxy. I'm hoping someone else out there has a better solution. Any ideas, suggestions, or whatever??? Any help will be appreciated greatly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Is the flood coat step necessary ?
The flooding your project gives your project a protective coating. It also will level out and fill in any imperfections left in the color coat. I highly recommend having a flood coat. 😊
one thing she doesn't mention and maybe her epoxy is less viscus, but I used Super Clear epoxy (great choice btw, it really is super clear) but ALWAYS trowel after the hand method. Otherwise, it'll leave hand tracks where you moved your hand. Like I said, not sure how thin of epoxy she was using but the thicker the epoxy, always trowel.
Hola, por favor lo puedes traducir en español gracias 🤩
estamos trabajando para conseguir tus videos con subtítulos en español. 😊
you don't chop it? hummm
I personally don’t chop with a brush, I use my hand. In all the years we’ve been doing install never had an issue. 😊😊😊
The Ultimate Top Coat is awful....it has an orange peel like finish...ruined my project......its not glass at like at all, its textured and matte and they don't tell you....I hope I am wrong but seems massively deceiving and morally wrong to promote...most people doing epoxy want a glass like finish not all but in general....the UTC is awful......
It's actually not awful when applied correctly and with my application method. If it were, I wouldn't have applied it to literally 100's of countertops. I've not had 1 single customer not love it. Did you practice or do sample boards or just jump in and do a whole countertop with no experience? How many videos did you watch before you applied the UTC yourself? If you would have done your research, you would have already know that it will not have a "Glass" appearance and that the gloss will have a slight visual texture due to the application method of using a roller. Just like every other gloss topcoat on the market. There was an issue with the bottling, I'm not sure when you purchased your product. The matte was labeled as gloss. I''m not sure if you purchased from my website or not. Either way, I'll be more than happy to replace what you bought if it was mislabeled. You're more than welcome to call or email me at (830) 433-7199.
I have found the ultimate top coat scratches EASY and actually flakes off if you use a fingernail on it? It also is not a gloss; it is a dull shine. The stone like one has particles of texture in it-YUCK. VERY upset as I ave done many counters in my home and that last step destroyed one. Don't use it!
When applied correctly you’ll never have this issue. We applied it to over 300 surfaces and NEVER had a call back or warranty issues. If it scratches with your fingernail, you’ve definitely done something wrong.