I remember one of your videos from a while ago in which you kept going in the wrong direction and it was flinging the board out of your hands. You figured it out by the end and you're now able to teach from your own experience. Nice!
I was taught if I wanted the best edge on a fine piece that I run it backwards then finish with the bite side. In my experience I’ve lessened my test out and the finish is always glass smooth.
Depending on what you are cutting if you are trimming plywood you feed backwards first then finish the correct way. You also have to think about what way the wood grain is running so you don't have blowout on real woods
Great job explaining router directional use. The blade always faces the wood while cutting like a table saw as you say and a plane feeding the wood into the sharp or cutting edge of the blade so it is a great and best tip you are giving that I have seen out of all the videos I have watched I would also fit the router bit into the router and look at the direction of the sharp blade if Im uncertain
a Beginner mistake is when they only cut in the instructed direction of feed, but you must be an Expert to realize when to break dumb rules. we do climb cutting on difficult materials that may tear out, and we instruct Beginner's to always use routers in the conventional push cut direction, because it's safer for clumsy people who can't hold on. But Climb cutting is generally the way to get the best finish and it also has the advantage of saving bearing followers, because only the last finish cuts are in bearing contact. Experts, know when to use each technique, and Beginners should stick to push cutting.
Feeding into the teeth is also known as conventional milling. This cuts the fibers, but the cutting force pushes these fibers outward, away from the workpiece, meaning they have little(or no) support when being cut. I had an issue with feeding this direction when routing hickory. The router bit would split the wood and tear long chunks out of my edge. The remedy was to use “climb milling”, where the teeth rotate into the wood, rather than outward. This gave support to the fibers as they were being cut. WARNING: When climb cutting, the router bit acts like a wheel, making the router want to travel faster along the workpiece, rather than working against the direction of motion in conventional milling. Be sure to keep control of the router, or it may try to jump ahead, which can be unsafe. This is the reason traditional milling is the technique recommended, and you should only use climb milling when the wood you are working won’t allow conventional.
Stumpy Nubs showed that if you treat the bit like a thumb, if you curl your fingers in when you point the bit up (for a bit pointing up from a table) or point the bit down (like in a hand-held router), the directions your fingers go is the direction the blade is spinning.
You can use your right hand. Place your hand on the edge you are routing with your fingers pointing in the direction you think the router should go. If your thumb points into the board, that’s the right way. If your thumb points away from the board, that’s the wrong way.
Make a backward “L” with your right hand. Now touch the tip of your thumb to the edge you want to route. Your index finger points in the direction the router should go. This is an old tip from FW and it works every time when using a handheld router. Inside/ outside edges does not matter just remember the tip of your thumb has to be touching the side you want to route so the orientation will change depending on the edge relative to where you are standing.
The problem is to remember which way the bit is spinning. With a table saw, or almost all saws, it's easy. The blade is coming at you. Or, better because encompasses almost all sawing operations, the saw cuts down towards the table. Routers spin horizontally so it's not as clear. Then there is the hand-held vs. table reversal, and the inside cut vs. outside cut reversal. It's not easy to remember fir beginners (sometimes I get confused). Some routers have an arrow showing the direction of the bit, which makes things a whole lot easier. Most aren't marked. It would be such a simple thing to add to improve the safety of the tool.
Best trick I heard was put your right hand fingers in an L shape then place your thumb on the edge you want to place your router on then whichever direction your pointer finger is pointing is the direction you want to route.
Hey, so as someone who has never used a router (my first is on order -- it went on sale, I couldn't pass that up), I have to ask about a part of the original video this comes from (or was it? I watched a good few among suggested videos over the past several days): You mention going the opposite direction when there's risk of tearout. Do you know before it starts tearing out, or do you anticipate it? If you do see some tearout, does going back over that small section usually save it, or is the piece typically borked at that point?
I always take a look at the bit and go into the cutting edge. You don't want to go to the back side of the cutting edge. If it's on a table it'll shoot that piece across the room. If it's a hand held router it can take off on you. By this point it's become habit and any other way would seem weird.
Watch Next How to Use a Router - ruclips.net/video/xLxCEBb-74s/видео.html
I remember one of your videos from a while ago in which you kept going in the wrong direction and it was flinging the board out of your hands. You figured it out by the end and you're now able to teach from your own experience. Nice!
Hello from Searcy Arkansas
Just a quick shout out and here's you and your wife having a Blessed and Happy Anniversary
I was taught if I wanted the best edge on a fine piece that I run it backwards then finish with the bite side. In my experience I’ve lessened my test out and the finish is always glass smooth.
Depending on what you are cutting if you are trimming plywood you feed backwards first then finish the correct way. You also have to think about what way the wood grain is running so you don't have blowout on real woods
Hi, I'm new - can you please explain this further?
Thank you so much!
Thanks this advice can prevent injury 🤕. I appreciate it
Great job explaining router directional use. The blade always faces the wood while cutting like a table saw as you say and a plane feeding the wood into the sharp or cutting edge of the blade so it is a great and best tip you are giving that I have seen out of all the videos I have watched I would also fit the router bit into the router and look at the direction of the sharp blade if Im uncertain
Love your shirt.
I always recall what my high school woodshop teacher taught many years ago... "Feed as you read". Of course this only applies to hand-held routing.
Same here.
I'm subscribing just because of your shirt.
Thanks!
…. And I am not, because of your shirt.
a Beginner mistake is when they only cut in the instructed direction of feed, but you must be an Expert to realize when to break dumb rules.
we do climb cutting on difficult materials that may tear out, and we instruct Beginner's to always use routers in the conventional push cut direction, because it's safer for clumsy people who can't hold on.
But Climb cutting is generally the way to get the best finish and it also has the advantage of saving bearing followers, because only the last finish cuts are in bearing contact.
Experts, know when to use each technique, and Beginners should stick to push cutting.
Feeding into the teeth is also known as conventional milling. This cuts the fibers, but the cutting force pushes these fibers outward, away from the workpiece, meaning they have little(or no) support when being cut.
I had an issue with feeding this direction when routing hickory. The router bit would split the wood and tear long chunks out of my edge.
The remedy was to use “climb milling”, where the teeth rotate into the wood, rather than outward. This gave support to the fibers as they were being cut.
WARNING: When climb cutting, the router bit acts like a wheel, making the router want to travel faster along the workpiece, rather than working against the direction of motion in conventional milling. Be sure to keep control of the router, or it may try to jump ahead, which can be unsafe. This is the reason traditional milling is the technique recommended, and you should only use climb milling when the wood you are working won’t allow conventional.
Stumpy Nubs showed that if you treat the bit like a thumb, if you curl your fingers in when you point the bit up (for a bit pointing up from a table) or point the bit down (like in a hand-held router), the directions your fingers go is the direction the blade is spinning.
You can use your right hand. Place your hand on the edge you are routing with your fingers pointing in the direction you think the router should go. If your thumb points into the board, that’s the right way. If your thumb points away from the board, that’s the wrong way.
Great explanation!
I'm not a beginner and I still get confused. What's worse, my router has arrows on it to tell you which way to go😂
Me too.
Make a backward “L” with your right hand. Now touch the tip of your thumb to the edge you want to route. Your index finger points in the direction the router should go. This is an old tip from FW and it works every time when using a handheld router. Inside/ outside edges does not matter just remember the tip of your thumb has to be touching the side you want to route so the orientation will change depending on the edge relative to where you are standing.
This is the easiest way to figure out the direction you should go I’ve ever heard. I always get myself confused but this is so simple. Thanks!
This is clear but what about dados? Do you move router from lef to right or viceversa.
The problem is to remember which way the bit is spinning. With a table saw, or almost all saws, it's easy. The blade is coming at you. Or, better because encompasses almost all sawing operations, the saw cuts down towards the table.
Routers spin horizontally so it's not as clear. Then there is the hand-held vs. table reversal, and the inside cut vs. outside cut reversal. It's not easy to remember fir beginners (sometimes I get confused). Some routers have an arrow showing the direction of the bit, which makes things a whole lot easier. Most aren't marked. It would be such a simple thing to add to improve the safety of the tool.
Great shirt. Best chapter.
It’s so nice to see a table saw blade in a table saw
Best trick I heard was put your right hand fingers in an L shape then place your thumb on the edge you want to place your router on then whichever direction your pointer finger is pointing is the direction you want to route.
Looks like that router but could use a little love... would like to help you get it sharpened up like new!
Take a marker and Mark the rotation and/or feed direction on the router base if it's not already there.
Hey, so as someone who has never used a router (my first is on order -- it went on sale, I couldn't pass that up), I have to ask about a part of the original video this comes from (or was it? I watched a good few among suggested videos over the past several days): You mention going the opposite direction when there's risk of tearout. Do you know before it starts tearing out, or do you anticipate it? If you do see some tearout, does going back over that small section usually save it, or is the piece typically borked at that point?
As a conventional vs climb milling. Climb milling with get you to have some chatter marks.
and probably some skid marks if you're a newbie who doesn't know what climb cutting is
If your cutter chatters on a climb, you're letting the router pull too much, or you're using a bad router. Use a quality router and slow down.
I like your shirt
I always take a look at the bit and go into the cutting edge. You don't want to go to the back side of the cutting edge. If it's on a table it'll shoot that piece across the room. If it's a hand held router it can take off on you. By this point it's become habit and any other way would seem weird.
I did not get it. Table saw goes clockwise but circular saw counterclockwise. It means every way for router is right.
If you are going the wrong way can't you just stand on the other side? 😮😂🤣 😂🤣
handheld: counter-clockwise, router table: clockwise.
Its also a safety thing, if you go the opposite direction the router can run away from you
Aka, Climb Milling.
Counterclockwise routers all spin counter clockwise that’s the way you need to go
apostrophe s never indicates plural
Climb cut vs conventional cut
Nice shirt
Then there is the shank size...😢
IN SHORT
What he's saying is go right to left.
Don't go left to right, that's how you hurt yourself or someone else
Umm if you don't have sense of direction don't pick up a saw.....
👊🏻
Said a lot of nothing
Not to be terribly judgmental but that was a totally unhelpful and uninformative clip... In most cases.