every time something is wrong with my e60 its always you that helps me whether its in the facebook forum or googling my issue. preciate all the helpful videos you are making.
had a similar thing with my car, in the front brakes the caliper pins had seized and you'd hear a little clunk every time the wheel went around when braking. It had been making clunking noise before that over bumps and It was only when it consistently happened while braking that it confirmed a brake issue. Got the pins replaced and no more clunking. Always nice to find out its a simple non expensive issue when you thought it would be worse
Honestly saved my life🙏🏽👍🏽 i was getting the same noise but 10x worse. Checked all the suspension and couldnt find anything then remembered seeing this video and checked my brakes and the caliper bolt was completely gone! Remember to use thread lock!👍🏽
I had all my brake discs and brake pads changed last year and since then I’ve been having a similar issue, I’ve just been told my callipers bad but if it’s just loose then this is video is saving me a lot of money
Thank you for posting the video mate. It really helped me as a refrence to fix the problem. When I went to the mechanic with the problem he said the Ball joints was causing the problem which I wasn't too sure about. Cos when I checked my caliper it was pretty loose but didn't have enough tools to perform it myself. However, I insisted him to check the caliper and found out there was literally no grease on the pins. And after that was greased there was no fucking noise.... Sometimes the problem might be too minor which I don't understand why so called experienced mechanics don't wanna look for ? Long story short, check your grease on the pins aswell who knows that might be the reason for that scary annoying noise. Thanks once again mate ! You're a living legend👍
If you want to inspect control arm bushings, it's a good idea to jack up the wheel to preload the suspension on that side so the control arm sits straight like it would be when sitting flat on the road. When it's hanging down like this under the weight of itself and the wheel, you couldn't properly diagnose a bad bushing unless actual chunks were missing from it.
Another tip - thread your wheel nuts\bolts on by hand first a couple of turns to make sure you are threading them on correctly. Only then put the gun near them and hit them with some power. Else you may risk cross threading your hub, and that's an entirely avoidable world of pain.
George Austers I’m afraid you’re wrong on that. The taper is on the outside and is used to seat against the bevel on the wheel hole and give wheel better positioning on the bolts. Nothing to with avoiding cross threading the nut onto the bolt. 👍
Thanks man, this just solved my car issues. It seems my mechanic forgot to tightened the brake shoe after replacing pads. The clunchy noise has been on each time i pedal my brake for almost a week now. It got me worried. Thanks for saving my little cash
I finally found this video with similar problem. I have a Dodge Avenger R/T 2012 from CarMax.everything was fine until months later I brake really hard and heard the clicking sound. Now, every time I brake when going 20-50 MPH. I hear the sound louder then before. So I thought it’s the ABS and got it diagnosed from a mechanic but that wasn’t the problem. Now that I saw this video. I’m going to check the brakes and pads. I hope this solves the problem. Thanks dude!!!
Thanks I know my control arm bushings are bad but this just confirms that this is what the problem is. I guess I better get to work on it then. Literally feels like my tire is falling off when I break
If it's any consolation, my wife brought our bimmer back the other day saying there was a funny noise coming from the back brakes. Can't be the pads I thought as there was at least a couple of thousand miles left on them. Sometimes when the car has been stood for a while and it has been damp the brakes can be a bit squeaky, so I told her to stamp on them a few times. I was outside working on my son's Lupo, when she came back with the car making an awful metal to metal screeching noise. Turns out the noise was a seized rear brake caliper, loads of pad left on one side, nothing but the backing plate on the other side! So that's new pads, new discs and refurbishing the callipers on both sides. None of which should have needing doing.
@@GeorgeAusters lol, actually it's the piston it won't retract and was constantly pushing against the disc. That's why I have tp replace the discs too.
That's a total pita when that happens, and is usually caused by the dust seal breaking down and allowing dirt and moisture inside the caliper against the outside of the piston when then corrodes and rusts solid. It happened to me on my Audi RS4 a few years ago, though I managed to catch it really quickly and the (vv expensive) discs were salvageable with a skim and just needed new pads and the caliper stripped and refurbed. Good luck
Great work on detecting and fixing the problem. I have a similar clunking noise under hard braking right before coming to a stop. I did find the right outer tie rod to be lose and the left outer CV boot with a bit of grease even though is not torn.. I will also check the caliper bolts when replacing the suspension components. Sometimes suspension/braking noises can originate from the least expected area of the car. Great video!
I have mine right before I come to a complete stop. The noise is felt through steering wheel. I think I get it sometimes when pulling away too. Other than that all good. Can I ask what you replaced?
Thanks for the video. Gonna check the brakes cuz I can feel that the breaks are harder to press as well along with the rhythmic clunking noise as I speed up.
My issue sounds more like an extended scraping sound upon breaking after slight ascension or decensions also from higher speeds. Its pronounced on the driver side and there's a small vibration as well. You've given me a clue as to what it may be though.
I get a deep clunk noise which I feel through Steering Wheel right before the car comes to a complete stop. It doesn't matter how gently I roll to a stop it still happens.
Hi George, had the same clunking noise the other day, and found out the issue was driver side lower control arm...the steering in my case was feeling like wandering every now and then also. Keep up with the good work, thumbs up
Great video, but at 3:49 I'm really surprised that that much movement in the 3 & 9 o'clock position might be considered "normal" (even though it also happened on the other side, too). Also, at 9:45, aren't you concerned about possibly crossthreading by putting the lugnuts on with the impact wrench instead of starting them on first by hand so you can "feel" them going on right, before using the inpact?
If it hasn't fixed the issue and you are positive all bushes are fine, then it may be the suspension strut top mount bearing, the one held by three nuts under the bonnet.
Good you found it , nice and easy. Most of the time it is a simple issue but still might be hard to find. And most times when bigger repairs are done they indirectly fix the issue so they think the bigger issue was the problem and it wasn’t.
Just solved this. Did two things so one or both fixed it. Tightened calliper bracket as shown in video. But also ensure you go beyond just a simple hand tighten of the lugnuts especially if lacking specialized equipment like me. In other words use the weight of your foot on end of tire iron to tighten down lugs nuts.
I have an old 1994 Toyota Starlet who's now going to need some more TLC, and I've recently noticed a clunk sometimes when braking, but it's only at very low speed like turning around in a cul de sac, or parking/pulling off on a slope. Driving the car in general and braking does not produce this noise and sensation when braking. I did get the undercarriage looked at recently, and was told she's still pretty sturdy for her age and I'm looking to get it protected. I asked the guy how the brakes felt and he said they felt fine, but this clunk only happening under the above circumstances is bothering me. Any thoughts? FYI, I have NO skills in car mechanics (or mechanics at all), so I think spending money will be unavoidable.
If it clunks while turning sharply at low speed it may be a CV axle. This happens more from accelerating than braking though. Listen to see if it's behind the front tire.
i found this video looking for what it may be. thanks, now im going outside to have a look at this! clean e65, gorgeous car, hope you still have it. i dont care for many BMW's after these years. i have the 550 and an e46.
My legacy makes a loud clunking noise when braking. My brakes and rotors were replaced a year ago, so maybe i have the same issue. Loose bolts? I glanced at the bushings and axles and there were no leaks or torn boots. Will check my brake bolts next. Crossing my fingers. Oh another thing is that my car pulls to the right when braking eek
It states in my manual that the bolts are single use only. The new ones are described as being encapsulated. Whether using the old bolts with loctite would have the same effect, i'm not sure. You can get the new ones from BMW direct on ebay, they are only a couple of quid each.
Ive got a similar issue - was driving fine then got caught in traffic so was creeping along really slowly then i kept getting thank faint clunk whenever I'd press the brake. But it's odd because if I'm driving at a normal pace and press the brake I don't really get it, also occasionally get the clunk when turning the wheel - but again only when I'm going slowly. Any help?
mine is similar but the back brakes? when applying brakes at 40km or slower speeds. like a shaking sound or a tapping sound fairly deep sound. They fixed the rear brakes back in july 2021 and now its back same exact sound, i wonder if its a lubrication issue> they want to take apart the brake system??
I am having the same issues/sounds from my blazer. I had one of the control arms replace 5 years ago. Cant remember if it was upper or lower, but the older one may have finally went bad. Hopefully just something so simple as tightening a bolt or 2.
Great videos George, well done. What is the correct torque setting for tightening the wheel bolts ? I have the same car and has the same noise on slow speed or fully brake , front wheel driver side. I can also feel a slight move in to the steering wheel also. I'll have it checked now that i seen your video. thank you.
@@user-yq7uf5cc7e I have the same issue when braking slowly now and then I hear a clunk noise. I think it's either my clips that hold the pads to the caliper or a worn caliper bracket, everything else is new.
George, was it one time clunk knock or rotating very timing clunking like there’s a crack on the disc. I’ve got same issue now with my E320 W211, Thanks
You may have just solved my issue! My old Camry started making a single clonk with light braking. I can literally see the tire shift back and forth a tiny bit when it happens. Took the tire off, inspected all the suspension parts (many of them are new) and everything was tight. I was stumped. Mind boggling. But I have a feeling it might just be the brake caliper bracket...
@@SP-ig3vs Hey! So, sadly it wasn't as easy as the brakes. Today I changed the brakes and rotors and the single click still happens. Thinking it's the CV joint getting old (196k miles) and having a little play internally before engaging. It doesn't happen when turning though, interestingly.. only when going straight.
I have a weird thud that i feel in the brake pedals but only occurs when i'm slowing down and only once in a while, nit all the time. I checked everything, even replaced my transmission mount and still cant find what it is. motor mounts are good, Rack and Pinion is good... brake rotors and pads were placed in January (front and rear) new front wheels bearings in January as well. No idea what it could be. I'll make sure the brakes are nice and tight now.
@@ianbridges7929My issue was on my FX35 catalytic converters bracket mount. It was rotted and broken off and when i would some to a stop the catalyc converters would bump into the mount.... I replaced the mount myself and he problem went away.
@@DTUFINOPhotography wow thanks for the reply. I replaced rotors and pads and thought shims still good and cleaned them up. Still intermittent graunch but only at slow or stopping speeds and often as I lift off the break. Today had time to put new shims on drivers side just to be sure and that's the side I think the noise comes from. Thought I had it sorted on test drive but eventually no there it was again. Plan to renew shims off side and will check out all the exhaust / cat mounts. Thanks for reply and help.
Thank you. I have started to have to same in my auto. its gets worse when car is warm. Therefore brakes are hot. Do you feel it more on the left foot pedals.
wow it turns out the lug nuts were just really loose and the brakes are fine. I can't believe it was so dumb but so fuckin dangerous at 50 mph. I noticed it at slow speed on the highway but yeah maybe I should have stayed on the (shoulder) to fix it.
By the way I had the same issue after changing my brakes one my 2012 F20 118dA ! series.....Forgot to tighten the caliper bolts to the support frame....terrible clonking noise when braking and turning. Something totally different than this post is all about......I propose that you remove the under cover trays / panels......What you will find is not a beautiful sight......corrosion is the word.....I have a 2007 mod. 523iA with Im currently restoring the underbody on. Corrosion on the chassis reinforcement section on body towards the rear subframe is another area to check and treat. Plastic under cover panels are really traps for mud and road salt that never having the possibility to escape......Regards Jørn from Norway.
George mate, I would love your help! My E92 as seen in my profile picture has a minor problem (to me it’s really annoying probably ocd) my head light washer jets have the tendency of sticking out when used rather than retracting flush to the bumper, why does this happen and how do I fix it? Thanks in advance for the help
If you are going to work with your legs under your vehicle and raised on a jack, you are asking for trouble if the jack fails. Put Axle stands under the vehicle. Bad practise mate!
Good video but please tell me you had the jack and a jack stand under that car. Seeing your legs under it with all the pushing, pulling and rocking had me nervous for you.
I had a similar problem on the left rear on my e46 330 clubsport I had a knocking under breaking and was ready to replace the damper, but as I was removing the wheel I noticed how strange the pad position was, the fibre brake material had separated from the steel backing plate, although still constrained by the caliper frame, I replaced the pads and problem solved. the pads were only lightly worn and a reputable make!!
Hey George, I own a 320D EDE E90 built in 2011. Sometimes when I drive between 90 and 100 km per hour my steering wheel starts to wobble (the steering wheel moves from left to right) and often it is noticeable when you hold the wheel . The other time, the wobbling is completely gone on exactly the same piece of asphalt. I have often balanced the tires, car aligned and used other rims and tires. I do note that in wet weather the wobbling can be completely gone. All rubbers are also checked and the mechanics say that there is little to no play. Do you notice that with E60 or is this just a BMW thing? Greetings from the Netherlands!
I know this is an old video but can anyone tell me if the rear brake pads when parked, should move at all or clank when you pushed on them? I’m trying to figure out where this clinking noise is coming from, maybe the brake pads are the wrong size? If so when I bought the car it didn’t make any noises but like a month later and on it’s been clinking, does that sound accurate?
@@GeorgeAusters okay thank you, could it be they are the wrong size? I bought it like that but when getting the car the noise wasn’t there. Like a month later it started.
Maybe it better before doing any job on the brakes you are making sure to know what you are doing. Those bolts are not coming off by itself, someone didn’t torqued them properly.
I find a loud radio helps with owning an old car.
Hahaha I’m always listening out for any untoward noises!
Haha! Funny
Yes!!
True, threw in some subwoofers in the old acura and I don’t hear any problems anymore lol
Lmfao!😂😂😂😂😂
every time something is wrong with my e60 its always you that helps me whether its in the facebook forum or googling my issue. preciate all the helpful videos you are making.
had a similar thing with my car, in the front brakes the caliper pins had seized and you'd hear a little clunk every time the wheel went around when braking. It had been making clunking noise before that over bumps and It was only when it consistently happened while braking that it confirmed a brake issue. Got the pins replaced and no more clunking. Always nice to find out its a simple non expensive issue when you thought it would be worse
Honestly saved my life🙏🏽👍🏽 i was getting the same noise but 10x worse. Checked all the suspension and couldnt find anything then remembered seeing this video and checked my brakes and the caliper bolt was completely gone! Remember to use thread lock!👍🏽
Soon as you were able to move the brake component, i knew it was that. Great video and I hope all else is well.
I had all my brake discs and brake pads changed last year and since then I’ve been having a similar issue, I’ve just been told my callipers bad but if it’s just loose then this is video is saving me a lot of money
Could be the same issue!
Thank you for posting the video mate. It really helped me as a refrence to fix the problem. When I went to the mechanic with the problem he said the Ball joints was causing the problem which I wasn't too sure about. Cos when I checked my caliper it was pretty loose but didn't have enough tools to perform it myself. However, I insisted him to check the caliper and found out there was literally no grease on the pins. And after that was greased there was no fucking noise.... Sometimes the problem might be too minor which I don't understand why so called experienced mechanics don't wanna look for ? Long story short, check your grease on the pins aswell who knows that might be the reason for that scary annoying noise. Thanks once again mate ! You're a living legend👍
If you want to inspect control arm bushings, it's a good idea to jack up the wheel to preload the suspension on that side so the control arm sits straight like it would be when sitting flat on the road. When it's hanging down like this under the weight of itself and the wheel, you couldn't properly diagnose a bad bushing unless actual chunks were missing from it.
Another tip - thread your wheel nuts\bolts on by hand first a couple of turns to make sure you are threading them on correctly.
Only then put the gun near them and hit them with some power. Else you may risk cross threading your hub, and that's an entirely avoidable world of pain.
You’re absolutely right, I would always do this with regular wheel bolts but these are tapered nuts to prevent them from cross threading👍🏻
George Austers I’m afraid you’re wrong on that. The taper is on the outside and is used to seat against the bevel on the wheel hole and give wheel better positioning on the bolts. Nothing to with avoiding cross threading the nut onto the bolt. 👍
I thought the same thing. Hand starting is what we teach at Toyota.
I have literally the same issue! New pads and discs and now this 'clunk I didn't have before! Life saver
I'm not a BMW owner but I would be proud to have you part of my car community
Thanks man, this just solved my car issues. It seems my mechanic forgot to tightened the brake shoe after replacing pads. The clunchy noise has been on each time i pedal my brake for almost a week now. It got me worried. Thanks for saving my little cash
You’re welcome man!
Brake shoe? Did it also have a disc brake?
Got the same problem.The shims or bracket that holds the pads in place can also cause the clicking noise
I finally found this video with similar problem. I have a Dodge Avenger R/T 2012 from CarMax.everything was fine until months later I brake really hard and heard the clicking sound. Now, every time I brake when going 20-50 MPH. I hear the sound louder then before. So I thought it’s the ABS and got it diagnosed from a mechanic but that wasn’t the problem. Now that I saw this video. I’m going to check the brakes and pads. I hope this solves the problem. Thanks dude!!!
Thanks for posting that video mate, this will definitely help many fans to save lots of money!
Thanks I know my control arm bushings are bad but this just confirms that this is what the problem is. I guess I better get to work on it then. Literally feels like my tire is falling off when I break
If it's any consolation, my wife brought our bimmer back the other day saying there was a funny noise coming from the back brakes. Can't be the pads I thought as there was at least a couple of thousand miles left on them. Sometimes when the car has been stood for a while and it has been damp the brakes can be a bit squeaky, so I told her to stamp on them a few times. I was outside working on my son's Lupo, when she came back with the car making an awful metal to metal screeching noise. Turns out the noise was a seized rear brake caliper, loads of pad left on one side, nothing but the backing plate on the other side! So that's new pads, new discs and refurbishing the callipers on both sides. None of which should have needing doing.
Jheeez😢 Make sure you really grease them slide pins up mate!
@@GeorgeAusters lol, actually it's the piston it won't retract and was constantly pushing against the disc. That's why I have tp replace the discs too.
That's a total pita when that happens, and is usually caused by the dust seal breaking down and allowing dirt and moisture inside the caliper against the outside of the piston when then corrodes and rusts solid.
It happened to me on my Audi RS4 a few years ago, though I managed to catch it really quickly and the (vv expensive) discs were salvageable with a skim and just needed new pads and the caliper stripped and refurbed. Good luck
When i change the pads on any car i spray wd40 in behind the piston outer seal and this helps stopping the piston from sticking
Great work on detecting and fixing the problem. I have a similar clunking noise under hard braking right before coming to a stop. I did find the right outer tie rod to be lose and the left outer CV boot with a bit of grease even though is not torn.. I will also check the caliper bolts when replacing the suspension components. Sometimes suspension/braking noises can originate from the least expected area of the car. Great video!
I have mine right before I come to a complete stop. The noise is felt through steering wheel. I think I get it sometimes when pulling away too. Other than that all good. Can I ask what you replaced?
@@SheWolf_73 I have the same issue, did you find a solution?
Thanks for the video. Gonna check the brakes cuz I can feel that the breaks are harder to press as well along with the rhythmic clunking noise as I speed up.
A Great Britain living car RUclipsr who has tools in his description 😂 finalllyyyyy
Hahaha that’s a good thing then yes?
Great video my friend. I have the same symptoms on my vehicle. I will check for that too. Be kind and stay safe.Cheers from Canada.
Mines has been making the very same noise recently, I checked all steering and suspension parts but nothing. I'll check this at the weekend 👍
Let me know how you get on mate!
@@GeorgeAusters will do, it's been driving me mad lol
My issue sounds more like an extended scraping sound upon breaking after slight ascension or decensions also from higher speeds. Its pronounced on the driver side and there's a small vibration as well. You've given me a clue as to what it may be though.
I get a deep clunk noise which I feel through Steering Wheel right before the car comes to a complete stop. It doesn't matter how gently I roll to a stop it still happens.
Hi George, had the same clunking noise the other day, and found out the issue was driver side lower control arm...the steering in my case was feeling like wandering every now and then also.
Keep up with the good work, thumbs up
They shouldn't work loose like that - either they weren't torqued down properly and/or there should be thread lock on the bolts 🤔
Great video, but at 3:49 I'm really surprised that that much movement in the 3 & 9 o'clock position might be considered "normal" (even though it also happened on the other side, too).
Also, at 9:45, aren't you concerned about possibly crossthreading by putting the lugnuts on with the impact wrench instead of starting them on first by hand so you can "feel" them going on right, before using the inpact?
If it hasn't fixed the issue and you are positive all bushes are fine, then it may be the suspension strut top mount bearing, the one held by three nuts under the bonnet.
Yeah I don’t think it is the strut bearing. That typically grinds when you’re turning the wheel👍🏻
George you legend. Another crisis averted on my e60!
Can I hire you to wake up the kids? That foot nudge action and force are precisely what would be needed to get them the hell out of bed.
Haha let them sleep!
Good you found it , nice and easy. Most of the time it is a simple issue but still might be hard to find. And most times when bigger repairs are done they indirectly fix the issue so they think the bigger issue was the problem and it wasn’t.
I would have bet a lot that would fix your issue. How did they get that loose in the first place?
Just solved this. Did two things so one or both fixed it. Tightened calliper bracket as shown in video. But also ensure you go beyond just a simple hand tighten of the lugnuts especially if lacking specialized equipment like me. In other words use the weight of your foot on end of tire iron to tighten down lugs nuts.
I have an old 1994 Toyota Starlet who's now going to need some more TLC, and I've recently noticed a clunk sometimes when braking, but it's only at very low speed like turning around in a cul de sac, or parking/pulling off on a slope. Driving the car in general and braking does not produce this noise and sensation when braking. I did get the undercarriage looked at recently, and was told she's still pretty sturdy for her age and I'm looking to get it protected. I asked the guy how the brakes felt and he said they felt fine, but this clunk only happening under the above circumstances is bothering me. Any thoughts?
FYI, I have NO skills in car mechanics (or mechanics at all), so I think spending money will be unavoidable.
Let me know if you find something im having same thing
If it clunks while turning sharply at low speed it may be a CV axle. This happens more from accelerating than braking though. Listen to see if it's behind the front tire.
i found this video looking for what it may be. thanks, now im going outside to have a look at this! clean e65, gorgeous car, hope you still have it. i dont care for many BMW's after these years. i have the 550 and an e46.
George, these bolts are stretch bolts. Do NOT reuse stretch bolts!
My legacy makes a loud clunking noise when braking. My brakes and rotors were replaced a year ago, so maybe i have the same issue. Loose bolts? I glanced at the bushings and axles and there were no leaks or torn boots. Will check my brake bolts next. Crossing my fingers. Oh another thing is that my car pulls to the right when braking eek
Just how much time, effort & money have you put into this particular car, you must really think it's worth it !
Yes, better than buying new car. Because you have done everything and you know the car in and out.
I am going to do the same thing to my 525i E60. 😊
@@kapilapatikiriachchige5169 bmw are trash and unreliable
@@williamoliveros76Will I would not agree e with that,
What a great video, been trying to sort this out for about a month.
Hi
why do you have wheel nuts? after all, the screws are originally there
Did the bird poop hit the wheel as a vertical surface or did it poop on the rim while it was removed for the diagnosis?
I can spot the problem right away. The car is a BMW. They are intended as trophy pieces, not for actual driving.
Well thank u I have the same issue with my x6 so hopefully is the caliper just need to be tight.
Good luck!
They might have been tight, but whoever fitted them last time never used thread locker.
It states in my manual that the bolts are single use only. The new ones are described as being encapsulated. Whether using the old bolts with loctite would have the same effect, i'm not sure. You can get the new ones from BMW direct on ebay, they are only a couple of quid each.
I’ll loctite them all when I get a chabce👍🏻
George Austers I get a slight “clonking/clicking” sound from my front brakes when applied, did you get this type of sound by any chance?
@@garyellis9264 It was a clunk/ knocking noise. Definately worth checking this mate!
George Austers yeh think I will just check, even tho I replaced the pads and disks about 2/3 weeks ago 😕. Cheers mate
@@garyellis9264 Has your noise started since? or was like it before then?
Ive got a similar issue - was driving fine then got caught in traffic so was creeping along really slowly then i kept getting thank faint clunk whenever I'd press the brake. But it's odd because if I'm driving at a normal pace and press the brake I don't really get it, also occasionally get the clunk when turning the wheel - but again only when I'm going slowly. Any help?
Did you figure it out? Same exact problem
My exact problem in my 2019 Kia Sportage just get brake pads done now a week later I'm hearing slight knockn but when I go fast I don't hear nothing
Did you figure this out?
mine is similar but the back brakes? when applying brakes at 40km or slower speeds. like a shaking sound or a tapping sound fairly deep sound. They fixed the rear brakes back in july 2021 and now its back same exact sound, i wonder if its a lubrication issue> they want to take apart the brake system??
I am having the same issues/sounds from my blazer. I had one of the control arms replace 5 years ago. Cant remember if it was upper or lower, but the older one may have finally went bad. Hopefully just something so simple as tightening a bolt or 2.
Great videos George, well done. What is the correct torque setting for tightening the wheel bolts ? I have the same car and has the same noise on slow speed or fully brake , front wheel driver side. I can also feel a slight move in to the steering wheel also. I'll have it checked now that i seen your video. thank you.
Standard wheel bolts are 140nm but I have wheel nuts on studs which are 120nm
My car clunks when I sit in it on the driver side, and also when I’m braking pretty often now.... what are the possible issues??
You ever find out?
@@Everydaycali nope
@@user-yq7uf5cc7e I have the same issue when braking slowly now and then I hear a clunk noise. I think it's either my clips that hold the pads to the caliper or a worn caliper bracket, everything else is new.
@@skypool100 did you find the solution?
@@skypool100 same brake pads are moving thats you hear clunk....do the same thing in this video and you should ways use new brackets the wear
Thank you so much. I had the same issue and this was the solution!!
omg my car got that same noise. gonna fix it soon.
George, was it one time clunk knock or rotating very timing clunking like there’s a crack on the disc. I’ve got same issue now with my E320 W211, Thanks
Did you get bump steer at all?
On my bmw 325i e90 mine does the same thing on the driver left side. I’m pretty sure it’s one of my control arms.
Hello can I bring my car to you to get the egr valve replaced or cleaned on a bmw 320d please thank you.
on my mazda 3 after changing the whole suspension , it happened to me and I have no idea what's causing it
You have wheel studs and nuts, as opposed to bolts? Is that standard??
No they come with bolts as standard but nuts are so much better.
Here’s the video installing them: ruclips.net/video/bY8fbk-yb0g/видео.html
You should push down on a torque wrench tightening wheel nuts. Easier on the back.
You’re right👍🏻
Until the wrench slips and you crash face down
😂
You may have just solved my issue! My old Camry started making a single clonk with light braking. I can literally see the tire shift back and forth a tiny bit when it happens. Took the tire off, inspected all the suspension parts (many of them are new) and everything was tight. I was stumped. Mind boggling. But I have a feeling it might just be the brake caliper bracket...
Good luck!
did you ever figure out what it was?
@@SP-ig3vs Hey! So, sadly it wasn't as easy as the brakes. Today I changed the brakes and rotors and the single click still happens. Thinking it's the CV joint getting old (196k miles) and having a little play internally before engaging. It doesn't happen when turning though, interestingly.. only when going straight.
I have a weird thud that i feel in the brake pedals but only occurs when i'm slowing down and only once in a while, nit all the time. I checked everything, even replaced my transmission mount and still cant find what it is. motor mounts are good, Rack and Pinion is good... brake rotors and pads were placed in January (front and rear) new front wheels bearings in January as well. No idea what it could be. I'll make sure the brakes are nice and tight now.
Did you fix this? If so how? Have same problem. Thanks
@@ianbridges7929My issue was on my FX35 catalytic converters bracket mount. It was rotted and broken off and when i would some to a stop the catalyc converters would bump into the mount.... I replaced the mount myself and he problem went away.
@@DTUFINOPhotography wow thanks for the reply.
I replaced rotors and pads and thought shims still good and cleaned them up.
Still intermittent graunch but only at slow or stopping speeds and often as I lift off the break.
Today had time to put new shims on drivers side just to be sure and that's the side I think the noise comes from.
Thought I had it sorted on test drive but eventually no there it was again.
Plan to renew shims off side and will check out all the exhaust / cat mounts.
Thanks for reply and help.
BMW E60 520D 2008:
Car shuddering with rpm fluctuations, particularly at about 100k/h. Though it also does at times at slow speed.
Thank you. I have started to have to same in my auto. its gets worse when car is warm. Therefore brakes are hot. Do you feel it more on the left foot pedals.
..who was the last to tighten the caliper bracket doh 😂 😂
That would be me sir... In my defence, I’m sure I was rushing as we was losing day light😂
@@GeorgeAusters you'd chance to have been rushing to finish before that garage door fully opened 😂
The name BMW and problem go hand and hand!
What size socket to tighten up caliper
I think you fixed the issue..:)
bloody good thanks mate from buffalo ny
Thanks Kevin!
Bloody ell, I’m from Buffalo Ny too
Very helpful thanks
Was it U-joint on rack ?
I thought I had this problem, but I have drum brakes on the rear. But maybe the noise is not really coming from the back. I have to check this
wow it turns out the lug nuts were just really loose and the brakes are fine. I can't believe it was so dumb but so fuckin dangerous at 50 mph. I noticed it at slow speed on the highway but yeah maybe I should have stayed on the (shoulder) to fix it.
Hi mate wots Torque blots please
I have the same problem!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you!!!! On my e46
By the way I had the same issue after changing my brakes one my 2012 F20 118dA ! series.....Forgot to tighten the caliper bolts to the support frame....terrible clonking noise when braking and turning. Something totally different than this post is all about......I propose that you remove the under cover trays / panels......What you will find is not a beautiful sight......corrosion is the word.....I have a 2007 mod. 523iA with Im currently restoring the underbody on. Corrosion on the chassis reinforcement section on body towards the rear subframe is another area to check and treat. Plastic under cover panels are really traps for mud and road salt that never having the possibility to escape......Regards Jørn from Norway.
Who's been in there and not torqued them up properly in the past?🧐
George mate, I would love your help! My E92 as seen in my profile picture has a minor problem (to me it’s really annoying probably ocd) my head light washer jets have the tendency of sticking out when used rather than retracting flush to the bumper, why does this happen and how do I fix it? Thanks in advance for the help
If you are going to work with your legs under your vehicle and raised on a jack, you are asking for trouble if the jack fails. Put Axle stands under the vehicle. Bad practise mate!
Thanks but I did have 2 axle stands supporting the car
Love this my guy
Good video but please tell me you had the jack and a jack stand under that car. Seeing your legs under it with all the pushing, pulling and rocking had me nervous for you.
Of course!
Whoever powdercoated your calipers, did not reinstall them correctly. I would check the other's torques as well.
I believe you fix the issue
And this is why amatures need to use a torque wrench when tightening bolts.
now I know red spray paint doesn't take the place of tight bolts.
I had a similar problem on the left rear on my e46 330 clubsport I had a knocking under breaking and was ready to replace the damper, but as I was removing the wheel I noticed how strange the pad position was, the fibre brake material had separated from the steel backing plate, although still constrained by the caliper frame, I replaced the pads and problem solved. the pads were only lightly worn and a reputable make!!
OR Check Wheel Nuts as well.
This happened after i switched front tires!! My brakes are fine
Hey George, I own a 320D EDE E90 built in 2011. Sometimes when I drive between 90 and 100 km per hour my steering wheel starts to wobble (the steering wheel moves from left to right) and often it is noticeable when you hold the wheel . The other time, the wobbling is completely gone on exactly the same piece of asphalt. I have often balanced the tires, car aligned and used other rims and tires. I do note that in wet weather the wobbling can be completely gone. All rubbers are also checked and the mechanics say that there is little to no play. Do you notice that with E60 or is this just a BMW thing? Greetings from the Netherlands!
Send me an email bud.
GeorgeAusterberry@gmail.com
Did you get the same wobble using an entirely different set of rims and tyres?
Yes
I had the same issues with my 520d e60 and it came out with steering rack being worn, and solution was replacementz
Make sure to check it out.
I know this is an old video but can anyone tell me if the rear brake pads when parked, should move at all or clank when you pushed on them? I’m trying to figure out where this clinking noise is coming from, maybe the brake pads are the wrong size? If so when I bought the car it didn’t make any noises but like a month later and on it’s been clinking, does that sound accurate?
No they shouldn’t make noise
@@GeorgeAusters okay thank you, could it be they are the wrong size? I bought it like that but when getting the car the noise wasn’t there. Like a month later it started.
Fascinating does the exact exact exact same scenario I've got fucking exactly
I think definitely the Caliper Bracket bolts loose.
Maybe it better before doing any job on the brakes you are making sure to know what you are doing. Those bolts are not coming off by itself, someone didn’t torqued them properly.
Yeah I’m sure I was rushing last time I had them off as I was losing day light👍🏻
lol even a pro forgets sometimes come down brakes are not rocket science
Как называется шпильки на которые закручиваешь колесо?
So how did you fix it? Same problem
Did you watch the video?
I did'nt seen anything to fix, all the parts ar fine, or I just skeepit...
Watch it again and you’ll see what I did👍🏻
@@GeorgeAusters do you talk about the brakes? The calipers?
@@alexshady31 bro just not watching or you mad slow...everything is in the video...he tighten the dam caliper how did u not see it
Socks and shorts mate. That's a no no
Hahaha I don’t give a fook!
When im working on a car i think all fashion presence goes out the window XD
@@danlongyear49 precisely it doesn't matter at all when fixing things on your own car
I changed most of the front suspension components over this noise. Never crossed my mind til I noticed the rear calipers were loose 🥹
Dont need the lock nuts rims are battered lol
Wheels are getting straightened and refurbished soon mate
Those bolts ade supposed to have blue locktite on them
If Carl Froch was on Wish 💀😆
My makes clang when I put it in gear
Get some loctite on them!
Good idea!
That's what's on them from the factory so should be used when re-installing