Great explanation, I'd tried using it before and did it the wrong way round so had avoided it since. Now I realize it's counter-intuitive: When the overall scene is too bright you actually add exposure, and vice versa.
Exactly - I always say "think what the camera does and do the opposite". If there is contrast, that is. But once you know how the camera "thinks", it gets easier. Enjoy! -Danielle
Superbly explained... I'm lucky, I grew up with hand held light meters so had to understand how reading light correctly worked for photography, I am a big fan of partial and spot metering for wildlife I love the creative results especially when shooting under or into the light, I still use exposure compensation with spot and partial metering works a treat in manual with auto ISO. Especially with OM-1 camera where I can shoot at high ISO's without fearing too much grain in my image. Unlike a canon where I need to check the ISO's before the grain takes over.... Thanks for your superb technical explanations made easy... people can learn a lot from your channel 🙏
Thank you. Yes, I think if one used an incident light meter to start off, it probably helps a lot with understanding light metering 🙂. Thanks for following - happy to have you here! -Danielle
Excellent presentation on the subject. Now, all one has to do is go out & play with it to get the photo they want. Most of the time, it is better than slamming the sliders in post!
Exactly! Rather get it right in camera (where possible). I do realise the extreme ends are left for editing in post, but I push it as far as I can in camera. Thanks! -Danielle
Choosing spot metering over evaluative can make a difference too if the subject is brighter/darker than the background And in spotmetering you can under/overexpose as well
Yes that's true. However, in wildlife I find spot metering to give inconsistent results (I mention why in my metering video Part 2). You have to compensate by a different amount for each action scene because you don't know exactly where the metering point will fall. It's much more consistent in evaluative metering. And you still need to compensate when in spot, which is why I'd rather have more consistent results and use evaluative. -Danielle
Thanks Danielle, heading to Kruger in a couple of weeks (for 5 weeks) just going thru the process of seeing how overweight my carry on baggage is going to be 😆 I use exposure compensation all the time, and its easy once you get used to it ! 🤠😎
Five weeks sounds like a lovely holiday! I know that process too well ("how heavy can this rocket blower really be?!"). Great to hear you've made use of EC. Have a lovely trip! -Danielle
Amazing video, thank you Danielle. I use exposure compensation to get the exposure correct but really excited to try pushing it far left or right to get those amazing artistic effects.
Thanks so much, Danielle! That is truly a helpful setting! Keep up the great work! I would love to see some safari trips that you guys run, if that is possible. I understand that you are probably spending all of your time focusing on your client, so I understand if you can't.
Thank you Jon, really appreciate the comment. You're welcome to have a look on www.c4photosafaris.com for set date safaris or contact C4 for a tailor made safari. -Danielle
Really good explanation of this valuable tool. It has certainly improved a lot of my images when shooting egrets and the like. Never tried it in the low light such as that marvellous baboon shot so that's something to keep in mind as I do love rim lighting images.
super helpful! great videos! please can you do one on eye tracking in mirrorless camera's and how to set it up (really battling with this on nikon Z fc)
Excellent video, I just found you channel and I have subscribed. I have been using exposure compensation for quite awhile but I really like how you explain how it works. I am looking forward to watching more of your videos, thanks for sharing.
Your content is always clear, concise, and easy to follow. I have learned quite a few things with your content. Thanks for sharing for your journey and information
Thanks for a great video. I use exposure compensation quite often, especially when shooting birds in flight with just a little bit of ground visible and a lot of bright skies in the frame. Without compensation, all you would get are near-black birds.
I have always enjoyed your videos. I have tried it and some of my Better images were do to + or - when shooting. More control in camera is a Bonus. Good to see you!
Hi there. Thanks for following my videos here! So happy to hear that. And even happier to read "more control in camera is a bonus" - already makes you a better photographer 🙂. Enjoy! -Danielle
Very useful thanks ... I've been trying to use spot metering, and if I miss the target ( just off centre ) then its a problem as the exposure is then "off". I then tried centre weighted metering, and this helped quite a bit, but only when the subject was centered in the frame .. I will certainly try this, thanks.
Thanks! Happy to hear I found another minimalist-style photographer 😀. I do update my website from time to time but mostly post on FB and Instagram @dcwildlifephotography. www.dcwildlifephotography.com -Danielle
Good explanation. Question: I do shoot manual with auto iso. Does compensatie +/- also effect the amount of iso or should this also been set to a value?
Thank you. Yes the ISO will be the variable affecting the photo's exposure if you're in Manual with Auto ISO (you will see it going up or down when adjusting the exposure compensation.) Your shutter and aperture will stay fixed. Having said that, if you have set a maximum ISO in your ISO setting menu, then the camera cannot override that and once you reach that maximum ISO, it won't be able to make the photo lighter using the ISO. -Danielle
You'll love it. It takes some getting used to, so practice on contrasty scenes to really notice the effect. Just remember "dark subject, light background - overexpose" (and vice versa). -Danielle
Yes, but the with the exposure comp dial you make it much faster and error free. You should practice to apply EC. In M mode with auto iso EC simple changes the ISO. EC is brilliant.
Only when you are in full manual mode. If in any other mode, the camera will adjust the setting that it is in control of to keep the meter at zero. For eg if you want to underexpose when you're in Shutter priority, you can go from 1/1000s to 1/2000s but the camera will adjust the aperture to keep the meter at zero. Or in Aperture priority, you can adjust the aperture from f/4 to f/8 but the camera will set a slower shutter speed in order to keep the meter at zero. You can, however, apply exposure compensation in any of these two modes and the camera's chosen exposure will be overridden (by the camera adjusting the variable that it is in control of to get to -2 or +1 etc). I don't suggest using full manual mode for wildlife as things change fast - for eg from light to dark when the eagle flies from the tree into the bright sky. You don't have time to adjust in full manual mode. That's why I use Manual + auto ISO. I am in control of aperture and shutter speed and the ISO is on auto - the ISO will be the changing variable when adjusting to +2, -1 etc. Hope that helps. If you'd like to chat more about it feel free to mail me info@dcwildlifephotography.com in case I miss your reply here. -Danielle
Hi . Im using Sony camera i have little bit using againts bright sky photography birds in flight . Im usning exposure compensation and zebra same time so when use compansation to see the birds the sky became overexposed the zebra telling me . What shall I do ?
Hello there. If the bird is dark and the sky is bright, you'll have to choose which one you want to have well exposed. In this case, it's the bird, so the sky will almost always show zebras/be overexposed if there is a lot of contrast between bird and sky. The camera doesn't (yet) have enough dynamic range to show details in highlights and shadows so you have to choose. If the bird is also very light it is a difficult situation. In this case - use less exposure compensation, until the bird doesn't show zebras. Then in editing afterwards, bring out the shadows on the bird only. Hope that helps! -Danielle
I find that zebras are annoying with wildlife shots as they obscure too much of the image. I use highlight alert flashing instead as well as having the histogram live on my viewfinder which work quite well.
Technically if you are going to use full manual exposure you should use center weighted or spot metering because matrix or evaluative metering is already trying to compensate to get what it thinks is the correct exposure. 🤔
No, it does not compensate for spot or C/W metering . Only you can do that which is the point I am trying to explain. Example, that leopard in the tree. Say you were using matrix metering and added 2 stops of compensation and then the leopard moved changing the lighting just a little, your camera in matrix metering might decide to add half a stop more but you wouldnt know because the matrix metering is compensating not the photographer.
If the spot metering point falls on the light part of the leopard, the camera compensates by making the whole scene darker. That's compensation to me. But I presume you mean that the composition doesn't affect the exposure in spot metering mode as much as in evaluative? Happy to chat more about it, always good to see things from different angles 🙂
If you are in manual exposure mode using C/W or spot metering and you move the metering area the exposure would not change. The exposure would only change in in an automated exposure mode not manual.
Ok only an old timer photography nerd like me would remember this. The Nikon FA was the first camera from any manufacturer to incorporate what was then referred to as multi pattern metering ( Now known as Matrix or evaluative metering) Any way Nikon stated at the time that if you wanted to use exposure compensation you must change to C/W metering for the reason I explained earlier. Infact if you put the Nikon FA into manual metering mode the matrix metering automatically changed to C/W metering only. Anyway thank God for mirrorless and wysiwyg lol.
No explanation as to what happens physically in the camera when positive or negative EC is applied. What has been referred to is the result but to create that result something physical has to happen in the camera. Tell everyone what that is.
@@C4PhotoSafaris At 2.21 there is an explanation about how semi auto modes work before any exposure compensation is applied. Around 6.15 the conversation moves on to include the use of EC but when the EC button or dial is pressed/rotated there is no explanation as to how this "exposure override" is delivered by the camera.
@@gbodave5623 Danielle's explanation at 2:21 does explain the effect of EC on each auto-mode. So for example if you shooting on Aperture mode - you set the aperture and the camera automatically sets the shutterspeed to achieve 0 on the exposure meter. If you then increase EC by 1 stop it will adjust the shutterspeed while maintaining the aperture to over-expose by 1 stop (+1 on the exposure meter). Hope this helps.
Did you know about exposure compensation before this video or have you been using it for a long time?
I use it all the time - changed my photography
Yes been using it for six months or more, an essential part of my photography now 👍🏼
Ek het dit so 2 jaar terug geleer by Danielle wat by Pangolin gewerk het .Ek moet se die mirrorles kamera help baie meer daarmee .
Yes, I have used for a long time.
I feel so passionate about this one setting because I know how much it improved my own photography. Enjoy!
Great info thanks Danielle!
Another great video. I love the clarity of your explanations and the excellent practical examples you give.
Great feedback thank you! -Danielle
Beautiful and very informative description 👏🏽
Thanks very much! -Danielle
Great video but should always remember to set back to 0 after changing exposure + or -
Yes indeed. With mirrorless cameras it's much easier to see the current EV but with DSLRs it's a good habit to develop.
Very well explained, great tutorial, thank you Danielle
Thank you Barbara! -Danielle
Well written, well shot, great info here. Think I need to see the metering videos.
Thanks John. They're posted right before this video.ruclips.net/video/PNl5SCJk3pg/видео.html
-Danielle
Great explanation, I'd tried using it before and did it the wrong way round so had avoided it since. Now I realize it's counter-intuitive: When the overall scene is too bright you actually add exposure, and vice versa.
Exactly - I always say "think what the camera does and do the opposite". If there is contrast, that is. But once you know how the camera "thinks", it gets easier. Enjoy!
-Danielle
Thanks for walking through this very powerful technique. I use it every time I photograph - for 20 years.
Great to hear thanks Shem!
Love it. Straight forward and easy to remember. Thanks Danielle
Thanks Joe!
Superbly explained... I'm lucky, I grew up with hand held light meters so had to understand how reading light correctly worked for photography, I am a big fan of partial and spot metering for wildlife I love the creative results especially when shooting under or into the light, I still use exposure compensation with spot and partial metering works a treat in manual with auto ISO. Especially with OM-1 camera where I can shoot at high ISO's without fearing too much grain in my image. Unlike a canon where I need to check the ISO's before the grain takes over.... Thanks for your superb technical explanations made easy... people can learn a lot from your channel 🙏
Thank you. Yes, I think if one used an incident light meter to start off, it probably helps a lot with understanding light metering 🙂. Thanks for following - happy to have you here!
-Danielle
Excellent presentation on the subject. Now, all one has to do is go out & play with it to get the photo they want. Most of the time, it is better than slamming the sliders in post!
Exactly! Rather get it right in camera (where possible). I do realise the extreme ends are left for editing in post, but I push it as far as I can in camera. Thanks! -Danielle
Choosing spot metering over evaluative can make a difference too if the subject is brighter/darker than the background And in spotmetering you can under/overexpose as well
Yes that's true. However, in wildlife I find spot metering to give inconsistent results (I mention why in my metering video Part 2). You have to compensate by a different amount for each action scene because you don't know exactly where the metering point will fall. It's much more consistent in evaluative metering. And you still need to compensate when in spot, which is why I'd rather have more consistent results and use evaluative.
-Danielle
Brilliant explanation of a small thing that can transform your photography!
Thank you!
Thanks Danielle, heading to Kruger in a couple of weeks (for 5 weeks) just going thru the process of seeing how overweight my carry on baggage is going to be 😆 I use exposure compensation all the time, and its easy once you get used to it ! 🤠😎
Five weeks sounds like a lovely holiday! I know that process too well ("how heavy can this rocket blower really be?!"). Great to hear you've made use of EC. Have a lovely trip!
-Danielle
Amazing video, thank you Danielle. I use exposure compensation to get the exposure correct but really excited to try pushing it far left or right to get those amazing artistic effects.
Thanks Brendan. Yes absolutely - using EC to "correct" and to get creative, well said. -Danielle
Very helpful 😊
Thank you!
Thanks so much, Danielle! That is truly a helpful setting! Keep up the great work! I would love to see some safari trips that you guys run, if that is possible. I understand that you are probably spending all of your time focusing on your client, so I understand if you can't.
Thank you Jon, really appreciate the comment. You're welcome to have a look on www.c4photosafaris.com for set date safaris or contact C4 for a tailor made safari. -Danielle
@C4PhotoSafaris one of these days! For sure on the bucket list. Life just keeps getting in the way!...
Really good explanation of this valuable tool. It has certainly improved a lot of my images when shooting egrets and the like. Never tried it in the low light such as that marvellous baboon shot so that's something to keep in mind as I do love rim lighting images.
Thanks Dennis. Hope you find something fluffy to photograph in backlight for the perfect rim lit image 🙂
-Danielle
super helpful! great videos! please can you do one on eye tracking in mirrorless camera's and how to
set it up (really battling with this on nikon Z fc)
Hello, you're welcome. Thanks for the suggestion!
-Danielle
Excellent video, I just found you channel and I have subscribed. I have been using exposure compensation for quite awhile but I really like how you explain how it works. I am looking forward to watching more of your videos, thanks for sharing.
Welcome aboard Keith 🙂. Also happy to hear that you've been using exposure compensation, not many photographers do. Thank you! -Danielle
Your content is always clear, concise, and easy to follow. I have learned quite a few things with your content. Thanks for sharing for your journey and information
Thanks so much - it's lovely to hear that! -Danielle
I would like to know more about C4 Photo Safari.
Hi There. You can visit our website on www.c4photosafaris.com or contact me on my e mail: shem@c4photosafaris.com thanks for your interest!
Thank you so much for this video. I will share this with my friends who do not understand it.
You're welcome. I hope it helps them to improve their photography 🙂
-Danielle
Thanks for a great video. I use exposure compensation quite often, especially when shooting birds in flight with just a little bit of ground visible and a lot of bright skies in the frame. Without compensation, all you would get are near-black birds.
Thanks Jurry. Yes that's the prefect scenario - always surprised how many photographers don't know about it.
-Danielle
I have always enjoyed your videos. I have tried it and some of my Better images were do to + or - when shooting. More control in camera is a Bonus. Good to see you!
Hi there. Thanks for following my videos here!
So happy to hear that. And even happier to read "more control in camera is a bonus" - already makes you a better photographer 🙂. Enjoy!
-Danielle
Very useful thanks ... I've been trying to use spot metering, and if I miss the target ( just off centre ) then its a problem as the exposure is then "off". I then tried centre weighted metering, and this helped quite a bit, but only when the subject was centered in the frame .. I will certainly try this, thanks.
Hi Steve, yes exactly - those are the reasons that I use matrix/evaluative (for wildlife at least). Hope it helps!
-Danielle
Great presentational skills and content.
Much appreciated!
Great video. I liked your advice about avoiding the use of spot metering. I will check out your metering video for further explanation. Thank you!
Thanks Andrew. Yes, I'm all for using matrix/evaluative. Enjoy!
-Danielle
Thanks Danielle. Very informative 🙏🏻
Thanks Armand! -Danielle
Excellent!
Thank you!
Baie mooi verduidelik Baie dankie .
Dankie Sarel!
Super video, so well explained. Thank you.
Thanks a mil Peter. -Danielle
Very well explained!
Thanks very much! -Danielle
I love your minimalist style Danielle, do you have a gallery or website of you photos?
Thanks! Happy to hear I found another minimalist-style photographer 😀. I do update my website from time to time but mostly post on FB and Instagram @dcwildlifephotography. www.dcwildlifephotography.com
-Danielle
Thank you
Good explanation. Question: I do shoot manual with auto iso. Does compensatie +/- also effect the amount of iso or should this also been set to a value?
Thank you. Yes the ISO will be the variable affecting the photo's exposure if you're in Manual with Auto ISO (you will see it going up or down when adjusting the exposure compensation.) Your shutter and aperture will stay fixed. Having said that, if you have set a maximum ISO in your ISO setting menu, then the camera cannot override that and once you reach that maximum ISO, it won't be able to make the photo lighter using the ISO.
-Danielle
I have never tried it yet, let me try next trip
You'll love it. It takes some getting used to, so practice on contrasty scenes to really notice the effect. Just remember "dark subject, light background - overexpose" (and vice versa).
-Danielle
Can’t you get the same results by changing shutter, aperture or ISO?
Yes, but the with the exposure comp dial you make it much faster and error free. You should practice to apply EC. In M mode with auto iso EC simple changes the ISO. EC is brilliant.
Only when you are in full manual mode. If in any other mode, the camera will adjust the setting that it is in control of to keep the meter at zero. For eg if you want to underexpose when you're in Shutter priority, you can go from 1/1000s to 1/2000s but the camera will adjust the aperture to keep the meter at zero. Or in Aperture priority, you can adjust the aperture from f/4 to f/8 but the camera will set a slower shutter speed in order to keep the meter at zero. You can, however, apply exposure compensation in any of these two modes and the camera's chosen exposure will be overridden (by the camera adjusting the variable that it is in control of to get to -2 or +1 etc). I don't suggest using full manual mode for wildlife as things change fast - for eg from light to dark when the eagle flies from the tree into the bright sky. You don't have time to adjust in full manual mode. That's why I use Manual + auto ISO. I am in control of aperture and shutter speed and the ISO is on auto - the ISO will be the changing variable when adjusting to +2, -1 etc. Hope that helps. If you'd like to chat more about it feel free to mail me info@dcwildlifephotography.com in case I miss your reply here.
-Danielle
Hi . Im using Sony camera i have little bit using againts bright sky photography birds in flight . Im usning exposure compensation and zebra same time so when use compansation to see the birds the sky became overexposed the zebra telling me . What shall I do ?
Hello there. If the bird is dark and the sky is bright, you'll have to choose which one you want to have well exposed. In this case, it's the bird, so the sky will almost always show zebras/be overexposed if there is a lot of contrast between bird and sky. The camera doesn't (yet) have enough dynamic range to show details in highlights and shadows so you have to choose. If the bird is also very light it is a difficult situation. In this case - use less exposure compensation, until the bird doesn't show zebras. Then in editing afterwards, bring out the shadows on the bird only. Hope that helps!
-Danielle
@@C4PhotoSafaris thanks ,so the sky will be overexposed but the bird will be in good exposed.. alright I try next time . :)
Yes indeed, the sky will almost always be overexposed. Enjoy!
-Danielle
I find that zebras are annoying with wildlife shots as they obscure too much of the image. I use highlight alert flashing instead as well as having the histogram live on my viewfinder which work quite well.
Technically if you are going to use full manual exposure you should use center weighted or spot metering because matrix or evaluative metering is already trying to compensate to get what it thinks is the correct exposure. 🤔
Would the camera not be compensating with spot metering / center too?
No, it does not compensate for spot or C/W metering . Only you can do that which is the point I am trying to explain. Example, that leopard in the tree. Say you were using matrix metering and added 2 stops of compensation and then the leopard moved changing the lighting just a little, your camera in matrix metering might decide to add half a stop more but you wouldnt know because the matrix metering is compensating not the photographer.
If the spot metering point falls on the light part of the leopard, the camera compensates by making the whole scene darker. That's compensation to me. But I presume you mean that the composition doesn't affect the exposure in spot metering mode as much as in evaluative? Happy to chat more about it, always good to see things from different angles 🙂
If you are in manual exposure mode using C/W or spot metering and you move the metering area the exposure would not change. The exposure would only change in in an automated exposure mode not manual.
Ok only an old timer photography nerd like me would remember this. The Nikon FA was the first camera from any manufacturer to incorporate what was then referred to as multi pattern metering ( Now known as Matrix or evaluative metering) Any way Nikon stated at the time that if you wanted to use exposure compensation you must change to C/W metering for the reason I explained earlier. Infact if you put the Nikon FA into manual metering mode the matrix metering automatically changed to C/W metering only. Anyway thank God for mirrorless and wysiwyg lol.
No explanation as to what happens physically in the camera when positive or negative EC is applied. What has been referred to is the result but to create that result something physical has to happen in the camera. Tell everyone what that is.
Hello. You're welcome to watch again at 2.21.
-Danielle
@@C4PhotoSafaris At 2.21 there is an explanation about how semi auto modes work before any exposure compensation is applied. Around 6.15 the conversation moves on to include the use of EC but when the EC button or dial is pressed/rotated there is no explanation as to how this "exposure override" is delivered by the camera.
Thanks for your input!
@@gbodave5623 Danielle's explanation at 2:21 does explain the effect of EC on each auto-mode. So for example if you shooting on Aperture mode - you set the aperture and the camera automatically sets the shutterspeed to achieve 0 on the exposure meter. If you then increase EC by 1 stop it will adjust the shutterspeed while maintaining the aperture to over-expose by 1 stop (+1 on the exposure meter). Hope this helps.