23. Wiring Tortoise Point Motors at Chadwick Model Railway
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
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Your explanation just clarified a misunderstanding I had about powering the frog off of a Tortoise. I hadn't put together that the switching for the track power to the frog was a separate circuit from the power to the switch motor. I had been so confused about how to avoid a short between power sources because I didn't understand the Tortoise already did that. Thanks so much!
I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
Loved your tortoise fitting series that you have done. Great idea of the layer of Cork between the board and the tortoise motor to dampen as much noise as possible. I have used ‘Celutex wall insulator Poly Foam Eco’ its a Damp/Sound Proofing building materials which as a silver layer on both sides to make it water proof house installation in between walls and roof beams etc..., I take the silver off which peels away fairly easy, You can buy them in 1200x600mm and in 25/50/75/100mm thickness, which I use mainly to heighten the landscape on the scenic side of my layout and you can chop at it, carve it however you want in to the shape of the landscape, ideal when building the height up to a bridge! But I have considered using the ‘Celutex’ wall insulator sheet to hollow out a piece to snuggly fit around the tortoise/cobalt motors, it’s called ‘Celutex wall insulator Poly Foam Eco’ £48 6x 4x2 pks from B&Q and Wickes but there are other brands of the same item from any builders yard. Just a thought to sound proof the motors more, cutting them to size of a inch or so all around the Point Motor, using the 100mm deep version to totally surround the point motor. Sorry for the longer than normal wording 😆 Great video! Thank you for sharing your many hints n tips.
Hi John,
An interesting concept. I’ll have look at how much room I have left when the board is finished.
At present I really don’t know how much sound will be audible.
Stay tuned, although the journey maybe a long one.
Regards Charlie
To cut down the sound of the point motors I used some double sided sticky tape. As I had to fit them underneath the layout I found this made it easier to screw them up.
An interesting option Russell.
Regards Charlie.
Excellent series of videos Charlie, thank you. Helps to remove the fog from around the 'dark arts' and give people the confidence to do it themselves. Dilemma time now; Tortoise or Cobalt? Oh boy!
Choices, choices, it’s a worry.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the videos. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie,
Another great video on how to wire the point motors.
Thanks
Gary
Hi Gary, I’m glad that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
I'd be interested in a video comparing Cobalt digital and Tortoise/Smail point motors - your videos are always very helpful and informative.
Sorry Ian but I can’t buy in those due to the expense. Regards Charlie.
Hi Charlie, I watched both videos on installing and wiring Tortoise point motors. Again the best how-to video I've
seen so far. However, I would like to pass on to you some of my experience concerning soldering cables to any solder
contact that is attached to the fiberglass printed circuit board material. This experience comes from 30 years working
in the profession of repair of TV's, cameras, VCR's and camcorders. When I first started in the field of electronics my
instructor told me something I've never forgotten; "Flux is your friend." So this is my experience; I always applied flux
to the contact of a printed circuit prior to applying solder no matter how small the connection that you want to make.
The printed circuit board material will repel the solder and the flux will cause the solder to remain on only the contact
that you want it to unless the soldering iron is bridging the gap between contacts. This posting isn't meant to be a
criticism of your technique. I'm just sharing what I've found after 30 years experience in the field of electronics repair.
Try it sometime you might like it. Bill G Linwood Kansas USA
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the videos Bill. I’m sure that your tips will be well received. Thanks
Charlie, I watched your video on the good and the bad of Point Motors. Couple of options. Use servos driven with pulse width modulation for slow action of movement. Or consider something called a dashpot. This is a damper that could cause the relay movement to act more slowly and more quietly. The trick here is that you might have to make one and do some research on how to. Another option is to use relays with an AC power source. One leg of the AC Source ties to the common pole of a relay. A pair of back-to-back diodes go to the other two poles of the relay. The diodes are opposite to each other Tied together at one end which faces the switch machine. As the relay throws the AC is rectified positive or negative going to one leg of a tortoise switch machine. The signal is rectified one way or the other and that's washing machine receives either a positive or negative voltage on one leg. The other like up a tortoise switch machine goes back to the other pole of the AC source. This is discussed on RUclips. Bob s
You make a very valid point Robert. However I’m too far down the line now to switch to servos.I’m afraid it’s tortoise all the way now.
Thanks for a great set of videos on these point motors Charlie. Just a thought on the drop down board. If you move the hinges slightly on the batten, leaving a small gap behind the board, you could bring the wiring under the board and pop it through a hole by the screw terminals, making it much more resilient and keeping the wiring tidy. Regards. Ian
Hi Ian, Thanks for the advice but I’ve almost finished that board. Mind you it might be difficult to feed new cables through. Have a look at next Friday’s video and see what you think. Regards Charlie
Great video Charlie stay safe over there it is slowly hitting here in Australia
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it in these troubling times Adam.
@@ChadwickModelRailway I am enjoying so much and tune in every week to watch I stay up waiting for it to come threw you are the best presenter of these videos so informative for dioramas I look forward to Luke's and I love the massive layout of McKinley please keep these videos comming it's nice to not have to see stuff about the virus thank you Charlie
Very informative vid Charlie. I used a different item to power my frogs - it's from Tam Valley Depot and it's known as a Hex Frog Juicer. Just an alternative to the DS64 for all the non-digitrax user's out there. Keep the gr8 vid's coming.
Hi NS,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Good luck with your project.
Regards Charlie
Very instructive. Rather than screw the mdf to your bb, what about using 2 swivels to lock it in place (thinking of what used to be used on older dining chairs to hold the seat base in). That would make it quicker to access.
H Alan,
Thanks for your advice.
To be honest I just haven’t anything else to hand at present.
I feel a trip to B&Q coming on!
Regards Charlie
Instead of using cork between your Tortise and the baseboard, you should try using 3mm(1/8) double sided foam mounting tape. Stick it to the Tortise but leave the backing tape on the baseboard side. The foam acts as a deadener and takes out the little rocking in the middle of the Tortise. If you need to move or re-use the unit, you don't need to hold the cork in place while repositioning. Craig.
Hi Craig. Thanks for the info.
Regards Charlie
If adding a slow-mo motor to an already fixed point (turnout) the clearance hole for the operating arm will obviously have to be drilled from below. I strongly suggest using a drill depth stop when doing this, it will save the point being wrecked! A drill stop is just a circular cylinder with an axial hole for the drill and a small clamping grub screw on the side. Readily available in metric or imperial sizes - just Google for them. Sadly drill, having that pointed end, will not make a nice neat clean flat bottemed hole. But there is a way. Buy something called an 'end mill' in a suitable size and use this after the drill has started the hole, but before it penetrates the baseboard. Again, with a depth stop. Best practice would be to use a small vertical drill stand, but those cost money and are not easy (!) to use upside down. BobUK.
👍
Very informative channel. You sir have earned a subscriber. I need my model railway fix, I need to have some idea what I need to do when my son wants to help me make our own layout.
I’m so pleased to have you onboard Harry. Good luck with your layout.
Regards Charlie
Great info Bill G Linwood Kansas USA
Thanks Bill.
Love your work Charlie
Thanks David.
Hi Charlie, another great video, I really enjoyed watching,very Informative. Cheers John.
Hi John, I’m glad that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie,
I have really enjoyed your videos on the Tortoise point motors, I could be very tempted to change over from Peco solenoids to Tortoise point motors.
Michael
Hi Michael, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed them. Regards Charlie
Super informative video! Great to see the DS64 in action and love the flip out control board but you may want to look at some clip locks or something as unscrewing when in place may be a bit of a challenge. Great to see your progress and look forward to the next instalments! Keep up the awesome videos! Cheers Des :)
Hi Des, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Yes I need some kind of latch for the drop down panel. B&Q will have something I’m sure. Regards Charlie
Hi Very interesting series of videos. How do you wire a series of point motors into a series so that one switch will activate 3 or more motors. What about the power supply etc. This is to allow me have one switch for each line in a multiple line fiddle yard. When a line's switch is activated all the necessary points from the entry line are set to the correct position.
Hi Duncan, as you suspected it’s just a clever piece of point and switch wiring. However, I only wire two of my points together such as crossovers which is far more simpler. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, On my little layout I didn't want noisy solenoids I favoured simplicity: Rods (piano wire) running through tubes with simple levers. Live points to suit tiny locos and auto polarity switching, works a treat. I didn't even like the click produced by the spring in the points. I didn't need the spring because I had a little friction provided by my levers so, removed one. Silence is golden! But I reckon that spring does another job: Keeping the blades tight at the thick end up against the rail. I got round this by fitting a small strip to hold the actuating rod forward if that makes sense. Wonder if you have this problem when fitting tortoise motors and removing the springs?
No DD, they are stall motors which stay energised and keep pressure on the switch blades.
enjoyed again mike
Thanks Mike.
Hi Charlie have you tried using rubber instead of cork for sound installation ! At work we called it flexi sleeve and used it to join plastic ducting to a extract motor it helped deaden the sound of the motor ! Just a thought from a very new modler of six months
A good point Reg. Regards Charlie
I'm new to this but I can bring some relevant expertise. If the wires will fit it would makeva more mechanically sound joint to feed them through the little holes in the connector blades first, ideally with the wire pre-tinned but not the connector. Then solder. Also, and this will only be of limited help, £3 for that female socket seems rather a lot. No wonder 0eople solder wires directly! There may be a commercial equivalent that is cheaper. If I find one I'll come back and edit this. BobUK.
Make a fresh comment if you do, I can’t find older threads sometimes .
I have a short cirquit on the tracks of the layout section that has three switch machines which are wired just the way you showed. I wonder where I can start to look for the spot where the short occurs. I run straight DC, but the guys that originalle wired the stuff ran DCC. I wonder if I have to make any changes to run DC. The tracks are just a siding plus a spur track.
Hi Peter, my money is on the wiring of your point frogs. disconnect them one at a time.
Also, now might be a good time to "Subscribe". Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I have subscribed and donated, thanks Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Charlie, I have no clue what was wrong, but the section with the Tortoises does not short out anymore. All wiring seems to have been ok, but I suspect one of three machines did not switch internally, as I manually moved them from one side to the other a few times and then put juice on again. Suddenly the polarity seems to have been set correctly, and the short was gone. A Christmas miracle, maybe.
Awesome videos which are extremely helpful! Can younhelp me wire 2 Tortoise swithes togehter with 1 DPDT switch, 4 LEDs and a control panel LEDs (red-green). Thanks for your help!
I’m sorry but I can’t, I never use them.
I’m sure that the DPDT videos on YT will help. Regard Charlie
Hi Charlie, you mentioned powering your DS64s with an external power supply. The PS14 Digitrax power supply appears to only have US style 2 pin connector. Do you know of a suitable power strip with US sockets and a UK plug which I could use? Alternatively is there any other way to power multiple DS64s without using multiple PS14s? Thanks.
Hi Nigel, to be honest, most of mine are powered by small mobile phone type chargers bought at car boot sales!
As long as it’s 12v dc you’re good to go.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks Charlie, that sounds like a cheaper plan!
very good video, its help us lot thank you... Can British HO scale locomotives run on USA Ho scale track despite the differences in electricity
Hi Nick, I would have thought so but the rail heights might be different leading to difficulties with flange heights.
@@ChadwickModelRailway The rail height is not scale dependent. Code 100 is 0.100 inch high, US, UK, or AUS. The problem is wheel strike on the rail clips. See the video on rails and pay attention to the bullhead portion.
Charlie, on your junction just after the viaduct, could you not have saved a substantial amount by having just one tortoise point motor with a tie bar operating both points?
Sadly you're wrong. The two routes don't run together.
Charlie, When throwing a point in DCC with an insulated frog, is it required to use a tortoise machine to be able to direct a change in polarity to the frog and also power the frog. In other words, what is required of the frog if throwing the point by a manual means with no point motor? Bob
Hi Bob,
When throwing an insulfrog point, no frog wiring is required. This is because the frog is split into two insulated sections (hence insulfrog). It should work fine either with or without a point motor. It’s electrofrog that brings more involved wiring.
Regards Charlie
Very nice follow up video, and again, well explained. Can I ask, did you have to center the points before you set the center of the point motor wire and motor, and did you need to set the Fulcrum? ...Simon
Hi Simon,
Yes I did.
In the previous video I nailed a pin into the centred position of the tie bar to ensure the the point motor would be central.
Regards Charlie
Is a decoder needed for each tortoise?
Not at all Ronald.
A decoder or a similar device would be needed if you were using a DCC system to change the point. However, most people just use an ordinary DC feed. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. I am changing my peco solenoid point motors with the accessorie switch to tortoise point motors. Would I still need a CDU for the new points?
No, not at all. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway thank you
if you are using an insulated frog is it necessary to connect it to the tortoise?
No Nina, just the two operating wires.
@@ChadwickModelRailway ok,,,then terminal 2&3,,,6&7 are for running other accessories?,,,,like signals and maybe censors to keep the position of the loco
Hi Nina, please go back into the video to 7 mins 43 sec and pause.
The outer cables (blue and yellow) switch the motor.
When the motor switches, in one position the green cable is connected black cable, and in the other to the red cable. This can be used to switch signals from red to green etc.
There is another set of terminals which in this instance I have not used.
Regards Charlie
Dear Sirs,
I unfortunately have absolutely no room for the scale that you are using
So I have opted for Marklin Z gauge is there any such motors available
for Z scale, also I just wondered if in your travels you know of any U.K.
based Z scale clubs?
Your videos are astonishing for their thoroughness and ease of
explaining the means of overcoming holdups rather than just
seeing them as more problems to try to get around.
Yours truly
ross
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video Ross. Sadly I don’t know of any Z Gauge clubs but there must be a Facebook page.
Hi Charlie, well I have learned something today! I did not know that there were two different types of peco points. All mine are the first type you showed. the other one was a complete surprise.
Not quite sure what you mean about the fix for loss of control when we hit the dreaded "loco shorts out due to incorrect point setting". You say you just power the point controller from a dc supply and all is well. Surely you also need the dcc track voltage to address the point controller. If the track voltage is shorted by the loco the control will still be lost. Or is this not how the point digitrax controller works? .................John
Hi John, great question, I’ll try to explain. So your loco goes into a point from the siding end. If the point is set against you, a short circuit results due to the polarity of the frog. If the point motor is powered from a separate supply, you can change the point and drive the loco on. Please let me know if that has made sense. I will also explain it better on Friday’s video. Regards Charlie
Not really making sense yet Charlie.Unless you mean that the separate supply is also the dcc signal from another booster or power district connected to the same command station, and not simply DC. I will watch the next video to see if it becomes clearer. .........John
When using Tortoise (and Cobalt type) point motors is it ‘absolutely necessary’ to remove the spring?
Hi Bobby,
I have heard of folks that have left them in but why? When the point has changed, there is quite a bit of force keeping the switch rails in place but it would of course initially fight against the spring as it starts its travel.
Without the spring mine work perfectly.
I hope that helps.
Regards Charlie
hi Charlie another great tutorial, which out of the two leading brands of slow action point motors, tortoise and cobalt would you recommend and do you think tortoise would benefit from screw terminals for some of us that are not so good at soldering.
Hi Dave, I’m glad that you enjoyed the video. Which is best is hard to say. I believe that Tortoise are quieter but Cobalt apparently have a lifetime guarantee. If soldering is an issue, solder to the blue clip which I mentioned in one of the 3 point motor videos. Long term you need to develop your soldering skills but not at the expense of ruining the point motor. As for screw terminals, there isn’t really enough room. Regards Charlie
Great video, recently subscribed and finding the content on the channel great even for a beginner. I am using DCC for my layout but was considering using a traditional DC panel for switching my points on standard solenoids, however I'm more convinced about using Tortoise motors now. Is it still possible to use a traditional DC switching board using these motors or should I be using DCC to control them? Would the method still be the same for wiring, except I would have to build a panel instead of using a DCC controller? Thanks :)
Hi Richy,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
Unless you are going to use computer control, I think that it would be best to use a DC panel to operate your tortoise point motors.
Good luck with your project.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, when you say the motor stalls does that mean it jams as it reaches its max point of travel or is the power to the motor cut as its position is detected by a microswitch, thanks.....Martin
Hi, I believe that the motor is designed to stalls at the end of its travel and then the power is cut, leaving pressure on the actuator arm to maintain pressure from the switch rail onto the stock rail. Hope that helps. Regards Charlie
jaxmar88 Hello, power is supplied to the Tortoise at all times. It is only a small amount but this is enough to keep the switch rail up against the stock rail. Keith
Hi Keith, thank you for clarifying that, I was thinking that was the case as the motor sounds very much like the synchonous type used in heating zone valves etc and I know that is how they operate, just wondered if they suffer from burning out as I assume they are always powered no matter which positions there in as they dont appear to have a spring return position (un-powered) as zone valves do
Hi Charlie, I adopted Tortoise motors on my first (and new) layout and I am happy with them... but I have a question because I am having some issues trying to control them via PC software (tried RocRail and iTrain). Do you control them via PC software? And in case you do that, which software are you using and how are you configuring the switch control in the software?
Thank you very much,
Riccardo
Hi Riccardo,
I throw them using Digitrax's DS64. I imagine that your system must have a similar device.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Indeed I use DigikeyJS DR4018 device and Roco z21. Everything works fine when I use Roco Multimaus to throw them... the problem is when I try to use Rocrail PC Software to throw them... because I could not find a way to configure Rocrail to provide the throwing activation signal long enough to allow the motor to complete the travelling from one side to the other...
I have recently subscribed to your excellent series Charlie - thank you. I'm getting back in to the hobby after a few years break. I will be using my existing Peco Insulfrog points (can't afford to buy new ones) and DCC for locos but prefer (as Richy 59 is) to use DC for the point motors and have a 'signal box feel' with DPDT switches. The Tortoise units look appealing (thanks to your video) but I am a complete novice at electrics so not sure what to do at the toggle switch end. Could you comment on the simplicity or otherwise of how to wire the 6 outputs of a DPDT switch to the Tortoise please? Thank you
Hi Marc, I’m so pleased that you enjoy my channel and have subscribed.
Sadly I know nothing of the DPDT switches so an unable to help.
However, if you can’t find the answer on RUclips, you might contact Digitrains and ask for their advice.
Regards Charlie
As I am know looking to get back to trains, looking at tortoise machines, so i am looking for there web site. As I think they have electronic parts that fit on the bottom. I think it helps with all switches, I am looking at C/MRI. Thanks
I’m so pleased that you found the video useful James and hopefully you have subscribed too.
Hi Charlie,can you tell if TORTISE can be used on N GAUGE layouts or would you advise something smaller....I must stay that i have pick-up a lot watching you videos thank you,if you could let me know,thank you,Brian
I honestly don’t know. Perhaps a question on a Facebook page will deliver an answer.
Regards Charlie
Could you please make a video on how to connect the tortoise motor wires to the track and the digitrax ds64. Thank you this would really help. :)
Sorry but I don't have the time.
The outer two cables in the motor attach to the appropriate terminale on the DS64.
You do need to change the mode of the DS64 to slow action switches first before you connect up. There are loads of videos on YT regarding DS64s
Have you watched my video number 22?
Great video Charlie, Im new at this hobby I'm a little confused about terminal 2 3 4 wires on the tortoise where do the go and do 1 and 8 go to the bus wire. Do I have to use 2 3 4 etc. No very good at soldering.
Hi Steve, terminals 1 and 8 switch the point. You only need to use 2, 3 and 4 if you are using electrofrog points to enable the frog polarity to be switched.
Do the wires from 2 and 3 get soldered to the rails on the switch itself or do they get connected to the bus?
Charlie, what is the advantage of using a ds64 rather than a ds44? What does it being plugged into the loconet gain for you?
Loco net will allow me to change the points to the DS 64 by computer Phil.
@@ChadwickModelRailway So I rather assumed that was possible with the ds44. Surely if the computer is connected (to the main controller, the computer get send a message via the controller to change a point attached to a ds44 (or any other accessory controller for that matter.)
I realise you are not a digitrax customer support!! I am on the cusp of deciding which system to go with for mt first layout since I was a teenager, and definitely want to be doing all the stuff you are passionate about - computer control, block detection, etc etc. Also want to set it up with semaphore signals throughout and expect to be able to use various accessory decoders to control them, and have the computer set the signals based on the block occupancy info. But if the computer can only control accessories via an accessory decoder that supports loconet then my choices are very limited. :/
Consider this - the computer can control locos, which are driven by decoders that do not have a loconet connection, so surely the same can be said for stationary decoders.. :/ ?
(thanks for replying BTW)
Hi Phil, please contact Jeremy of Digitrains. He will give you unbiased advice at which system he considers best.
Hi Charlie, what I found surprising was that you failed to mention was a WARNING! The wire that sticks out of the top of the point obviously needs cutting - I use (used) a Dremel cutting disc on all my original point motors without issue (they were all SEEP PM10s - However, I then purchased a load of PECO motors (the extended wire and lower current ones PM1-EW??). When cutting the wires on these, they became so hot that it melted the plastic on the point around the fixing hole so that it no longer worked!! So I now cut the wire on two or three stages!!
See: www.andybrierley/images/melted_point.jpg
Hi Andy,
This video was on Tortoise motors.
I used a pair of snips to cut the actuating wires and I’m sure that I never mentioned using a Dremel. Regards Charlie
Sorry Charlie, I think it was when you mentioned they were made from "tensile steel" that stirred up my memory of the melting plastic!
Can you send me a basic wiring diagram for a points motor i am building a DCC lay out for N Scale if you can thankyou Arthur
Sorry Arthur but all point motors are different and you have to decide on how to switch them. I know that with Peco points, a diagram is supplied.
Where do the track wires go
They are the red and black ones
Chadwick Model Railway I understand that but after you connect them to the tortoise motor where does the other end connect to
Those two cables then go to the track.
This only applies if you are using electrofrog points. If you have insulfrog points then only the outer contracts need to be used.
Decoders are sophisticated beyond my interest. If it moves the loco down the track responding to the controller, I'm interested in the whistle, the bell and the lights. Most decoders with adequate current handling and sound meet my needs.
Good for you Austin and good luck with your layout too.
Regards Charlie
could you do a video for using macro's that designate routes for the loco?
Sorry Nina but I use Traincontroller.
QUESTION:
Charlie Such polished work. IN-fact my current layout and Chadwick are so similar your just 5 years ahead of mine but we will see some vids of mine starting later this year you will see what i mean
for the moment have a peep at my current vids a standard little Hornby layout i made years ago to keep me sane while the dream one is being built and believe me happy wife happy life has been really accommodating for what i have planned. I digress.
QUESTION. Electro frogs. So new layout will be Peco code 100 unlike my hornby layout which was all HORNBY set track DCC with the little V shaped springs tucked in the point as recommended. Works perfectly.
BUT
Whats the story with Electrofrog exactly I see you need to wire them off to the point motor. I will use either Tortoise or Cobalt or maybe pecos new servo motors great for mechanical semaphores. (however really want to use wire in tube it really feels like im running the real deal). Prior to dcc (early 80s ZERO was too expensive lol) we were making a layout when I was young and my father had some electro frog some not of course what it meant was the layout was always alive i could not leave a train in a siding if the siding had electro as the power went through.
I really will just have a few points it will be dcc and the the question is HOW did i survive without using them. The hornby setrack with those springs meant it was always working but the polarity was never being changed all help so warmly received. I think your dedication to followers is incredible that you get back to them. Im working on a youtube series about building my ultimate HI-FI which has been my priority in the past 10 years and is almost complete of course it took alot of engineering and building to get it right and I am sure you know all about getting it perfect.
Much thanks
Josef
Hi Josef, if you use electrofrog points, you must have a method of switching the frog polarity.
How you do that is a challenge if you don’t use the normal switches.
Hi can you please help, I Have just bought some tortoise motors I also use DS 64 but I am not sure or the wiring for this do the outside two cable go to the ds64 with cables 2+3 red and black going to the power bus and green to the frog? thanks in advance keep up the good work your videos are a great help to a new like me Thanks Mark
Yes Mark, that’s exactly right.
However, if you get a short when running a loco over the frog, it will be because your red and black, are the wrong way around. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway thank you Charlie look forward to you next videos they are so informative
Just put a piece of masking tape around the pin and cut it. You will find that flag in an instant.
Good tip Huib.
Your wiring of the frog to the switch motor connectors seems very hit and miss.
Surely it should be possible to predetermine the correct connections.
Ken.
Hi Ken, you’re correct in what you say and I can work out which way the cables should be connected. However, when in made this video, tortoise points were new to me and then, I didn’t!
Regards Charlie
I’m new new and I’m still trying to learn what every thing means. What is a frog?
The V shape section at the junction, just Google it mate.
Cannot follow yr commentry. Pl print in writing also. Hope u will write.
Hopefully you know how to switch on the subtitles in RUclips. Regards Charlie