I’m in my seventies. A few years ago I bought a wheeled mechanic’s stool. I bend down , grab the stool and walk myself under the duck under. The stool has a tray at the bottom which is handy if you need to take some tools with you
I just want to say I am so glad you are on RUclips and you have actually made this hobby very fun for me. Very educational and fun to watch, I just got back in to the hobby at 23 years old and I’m very excited to see just how many people are still in this hobby and how much it has grown and all of the new products!
Exactly the video I needed right now. Im going to need 4 sets of those points for mine and this looks so convenient. The stuff available now is just awesome.
@@TheDCCGuy Ordered! Thanks. I also ordered that nice soldering iron you showed on the back of that latest issue of 14 tips magazine that came out from M.R. Tired of fighting my old piece of junk and didn’t know that one existed. I’ll feel like a pro once I get that here. Lol
To avoid pain if someone tries to walk through when the bridge is in place you could wrap the bottom and sides of the bridge with some foam and add the warning tape on top of that.
Great Video Larry! I do like those PowerPoints and will consider replacing my existing power connection with those! 👍 My only tiny tip would be, well actually two, one, no matter how awesome your intention is to not bump the bridge especially when there are trains crossing, an elbow, shoulder, arm, or our pumpkin heads will find a way to do so and that is why I have the bridge locked so if it is knocked by accident, worst case, you'll have a train derail instead of your $$$$ trains making its way to the floor! 😭😭 The second one, along both sides of the bridge, I have LED light strips attached so you can clearly see the bridge is up! Trust me, we can get so into our hobby and be so focused on that 'one' thing that like a zombie, you will walk in a direction thinking the path is clear only to either bump into that darn bridge! With bright LED lights spanning across, it helps snap you out of that zombie-mode! lol Lets not forget all those relatives and friends that come to see you layout too! Cheers! Larry! 👍 PS, I'm sold on your book and will order it asap!
Hey Larry. Just a update, I built my lift-gate using the DCC concepts power points and the images posted on their web side, it was a success, thanks for your video for the extra help
Hi Larry, Congratulations on your 300th video, that’s amazing! Using the new connectors makes the lift out bridge design genius! Very clever use of the connectors.
Congratulations on Video 300! You instructional videos were the often the best for solving many of my problems of converting my layout build from DC to DCC.
This is very clever. It seems like this approach would work just as well for modular layouts, which tend to have track at waist height and operators frequently need to get into the middle of the layout loop.
Another option to keep your screws from moving when bumped, on your 'existing' design from lance, would be to add some (blue or purple) loctite to the threads. Enough to prevent easy rotation, but still allow tightening and loosening with ease during planned adjustments
Hi Larry. I always look forward to Fridays (& Mondays) for your latest video. There is always so much to learn. Congratulations on video 300. What great achievement.
Larry, thanks for inspiring me to rebuild my own lift out bridge. I now have a convenient bridge with no plugs to connect, track sections on each side that are unpowered until the bridge is in place, and 2 flashing leds on each side to caution operators. I used 2 Legacy PowerPoints on one end of the bridge, micro contact switches for track power control, and built the ac to dc converter with an LM7805 5v voltage regulator & KBP307 bridge rectifier. This would never have happened without your guidance. So, thank you again! Let me know if you’re interested in seeing images of the completed project.
That is great to hear. I love mine now with the modifications and am glad others are seeing how much easier this approach makes using lift out bridges.
Omg this video have come at the perfect time. I’m just about to start building my new layout and I also have a bridge requirement. I’ll definitely be using these DCC contact. Congrats on your 300th video.
These alignment parts are awesome! I am currently working on my S Scale layout and will need this exact bridge system. Thank you for sharing this. Hopefully I can duplicate your design. Chris, Cbtrainnut
Good to know about this PP product as I have needed to modify my layout to remove a section to be able to walk through as crawling under now pretty difficult. It will be a Metcalfe PO209 viaduct / lift out section combo. Cheers
Thank you for a great video. This has been the best video about model railroad lift bridge building that I have seen on youtube. This method looks much nicer than using hinges.
I use these dowels on my lift-up section and they are excellent at maintaining alignment. I should add physical barriers to the track though - I do have keep alives in some locos and the layout is too small to have 24" plus of lead-ins both sides.
To protect our ‘chasm’ on our club layout when the bridge is out, we configured two relays at the adjacent switch toggles on each side of the bridge. If the bridge is not in place, these relays override the toggles controlling both switches, preventing access to the bridge route. Once the bridge is in place, the relays restore normal switch machine operation. Safest method of protection , as you cannot go where danger lurks.
Since several of your asked about stay alives I thought I’d post a comment on that topic. Obviously it is an issue since even when track power is cut there is the potential for a loco with a stay alive to keep running. However in my case I rarely use stay alives since (1) my frogs are powered, (2) I keep my track clean, and (3) I use the smallest available stay alives when I do use one thus limiting the run time. Also my dead track sections are 24” long which will catch most locos with a stay alive and I could easily extend that to 36” if need be. Another option would be to use a brake on DC stopping section but of course you’d have to have decoders in all your locos that support that function and not that many US makers offer it in their decoders. I have also placed a copy of the diagram shown in the video on my website where you can download a copy. Just click the image and save to your computer. The website is larrypuckett.wordpress.com
Mr Larry. I'm not familiar with DCC but in DC if you have more than one locomotive in a consist then the second loco can act as a jumper and repower the section of dead track. Just out of precaution, wouldn't it be better to add a longer length of dead space before the bridge opening? Or perhaps have a physical pop up barrier that would stop a train. Could be as simple as a spring rod that goes down when the bridge is back in place.
Hi Larry. I just enjoyed this video and didn't realize it's a year old! Wonderful video, but I can not find the power points you refer to. DCC Concepts doesn't list them any longer. Any idea where to find something similar? Ken.
Excellent video Larry, and gratz on 300 videos on this channel!! I also was wondering about the bridge being up and a stay alive device in a loco. Do you have any suggestions for that situation?
do you have a diagram showing how the micro switch is wired to the track? that book you mentioned shows how you did it with the connectors installed and does not mention anything about installing and wiring a micro switch.
My N scale around the room waist high layout had no convenient location for any kind of swing or lift out, so I use a duck under facilitated by a mechanics stool. I easily roll in and out of the layout area without any complications.
When you remove the bridge with the new contacts installed, does it make a difference witch way you put the bridge back. Can the positive and neutral be reversed?
It is virtually impossible to reverse it since the 4 PowerPoints must match up and unless you use a special built drilling jig the chances of getting all 4 to do that. And even if you did it would not matter.
Hi Larry, my only concern is when say a model has a large stay alive fitted. Would this mean that it could run off the end of the bridge or does the fact that one rail is powered and the other not being cause it to stop. Are there any CV settings that could help with this?
Hi Larry, How do you go about combating the wood from expanding and detracting through the seasonal months? Unfortunately our lift up section is on a corner and ever summer or winter we have to re-align the track work or close the gap at the cut in the rails because it either expands or detracts and causes noticeable gap to affect running.
One reason for the original leveling and centering approach was the possibility that it might be a problem. However my basement is heated and cooled and I run a dehumidifier 6-7 months of the year. This provides stable conditions for the wood so no issues with expansion/contraction occurred. One option would be to use extruded aluminum channel for the bridge. I initially looked into this but finally went with furniture grade poplar which is pretty stable in its own right.
The DCC Concepts Power Points do provide a very elegant solution to powering and alignment, under most circumstances. Thanks for showing us exactly how you installed them. It seems simple enough. But model railroaders are renowned for their very hard heads, which can accidentally impart significant lateral impact loading when the bridge is in place, should the modeler not duck low enough. In light of this contingency, I would be inclined to retain the horizontal carriage bolts at either end, to absorb any lateral impact loading, which otherwise would have to be absorbed by the Power Points.
Yes, I likely will reinstall the slide locks on each end of the bridge to help “harden” the installation as well as prevent the bridge popping out when hit from below.
Larry - I’m trying to locate a place where I can purchase the powerpoints you used for building your lift out bridge. Well actually I ordered four from “LocoWorks”. I must have been asleep when I think I ordered from this company - in Great Britain because I can’t find the order. The company is in my credit card statement, but I can’t find the company on the Internet. Anyway, is there a local United States or Canadian place to order the powerpoints?
Goes to show you don’t need a nicely outfitted shop when engineering close tolerances, just a truck tailgate and a couple of spade bits! LOL. Model railroaders are such an innovative bunch…great video, Larry, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for answering the question about the stay alives. One more question. I like the DCC concepts product that you have shown here. Do you still need something else for great alignment. I have seen copper clad sleepers and ProTrack being used.
The bridge I showed a photo of in the DCC Concepts office has copper clad sleepers at the ends where I used the Atlas rerailers. These provide greater protection for the rails just in case they get snagged when moving the bridge around. With the Atlas rerailers the rails are cast in the plastic so are not likely to get damaged. I think Hornby makes similar ones for UK track and of course DCC Concepts makes the copper clad sleepers.
Great project. Cutting the power to the approach tracks will prevent locos from falling into the gap when the bridge is out - unless they have a keep-alive fitted which gives more than a couple of seconds of momentum. I believe there is a way with some decoders (ESU?) that will allow an immediate "stop" command to be sent upon detection of certain track conditions. (I don't fully understand how that works.) Are you aware of this and would it be possible to see a future video on its implementation?
I mentioned this in the video-it is a stop on DC function. I will be doing a video on using this feature as implemented in the Zen Black decoders as soon as they can get more decoders out of their Chinese factory. Right now electronics parts are as rare as hens teeth so we are in a holding pattern.
Great to know about this new product, Larry. And your videos are top-notch. I've got an NCE DCC system and have two questions (this from a non-electrical person). Would these PowerPoint Dowels also work for running the DCC control bus between the NCE command station and boosters that are separated by a lift-out? Likewise, could they also be used for running a cab bus between UTPs (throttle panels) that are separated by a lift-out? Of course, these would be different PowerPoints than those used for the track power bus. Thanks!
Oops. Too late in the day. I may have just answered my own questions. Since the control bus and cab bus are cables, the PowerPoints would not work. The cables would need RJ-9 and RJ-12-compatible plugs/ports.
You could, you just need lots of these power points. But data cables like these don't have that many issues with resistance so you can just go around the room with them if that's a possibility.
Hello Larry , I am going to order these from DCC concepts, you show a picture from them for a hinged lift gate, I am building a hinged gate , is there any specific instructions for this method, I would be interested in some detail thanks
That’s all I hVe but you might contact DCC Concepts to see whether they have more. Basically though a gate should just mean turning what I did on its side. Are you in the UK or US? If in the US then check with Iron Planet Hobbies for the dowels.
Hi Larry, Congratulations on your 300th video, Where can I find it them here in the United states. I have two lift out bridges to install. So far I can only find them in the UK. Thanks for your help.
Larry, thanks for this info. The Power Points could be a perfect solution for the modules I want to build. Are the connections magnetic, or is it a strictly gravity solution?
Are loco keep-alives an issue for the area near the lift-out? In theory, when the track section is open, there is no power in the nearby section of track. But a loco with keep-alive could roll into the abyss.
Looks like he sold out fast as last week he had a number in stock, but he has ordered more. In the meantime try Spring Creek Model Trains in Nebraska, or Kingston Locomotive Works in Kingston Ontario.
No, no, your was a good idea, but it was not my approach. I did it that way originally because the Southern at the time painted their bridges black. The yellow striping was added as an afterthought and was the only color of such tape I could find at the time.
@@TheDCCGuy I missed the Southern Railroad; as N&W was quickly changing to NS when I moved to VA in 1977 & tried to get a job as a conductor but each time I went to put my application in N&W went on furlough hence- not hiring. I never worked for the RR industry although numerous cousins and at least one aunt worked for the B.A.R. near Bangor Maine.
@@TheDCCGuy Hi, different topic please; I'm creating a programming track on my new Digitrax Zephyr Express DCS52 and Kato Unitrack, is it sufficient to just put Kato 24-816 - Insulated UniJoiners in between a few sections of track or do I need to have a totally different section of track that is physically separated from the rest of the layout? Thanks! ( and yes, I am a newbie)
But if you have Stay Alive installed in your DCC engines then the dead zone when bridge is removed will not stop the train from having a corn field meet with the floor…maybe ?
In this location loco speed is restricted since it was in either the town of Charlottesville or it was coming out of the staging yard. And if it turned out to be a problem then the stopping block could be extended back even further.
Depends on the length of the dead approach section and the loco speed. In my case I can cut the dead section further back if necessary to create a longer stopping block.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I’m in my seventies. A few years ago I bought a wheeled mechanic’s stool. I bend down , grab the stool and walk myself under the duck under. The stool has a tray at the bottom which is handy if you need to take some tools with you
great idea i have one that folds up when i was a painter it is great but i dont use it now,,, hmmm
I just want to say I am so glad you are on RUclips and you have actually made this hobby very fun for me. Very educational and fun to watch, I just got back in to the hobby at 23 years old and I’m very excited to see just how many people are still in this hobby and how much it has grown and all of the new products!
I totally enjoyed this video! Innovation is great. So much cleaner than it was! Keep them coming, Larry! We all learn from you!
Congratulations on reaching 300 videos Larry
Exactly the video I needed right now. Im going to need 4 sets of those points for mine and this looks so convenient. The stuff available now is just awesome.
Iron Planet Hobbies has the 2 and 4 pack sets in stock right now.
@@TheDCCGuy Ordered! Thanks. I also ordered that nice soldering iron you showed on the back of that latest issue of 14 tips magazine that came out from M.R. Tired of fighting my old piece of junk and didn’t know that one existed. I’ll feel like a pro once I get that here. Lol
Congrats with number 300!
To avoid pain if someone tries to walk through when the bridge is in place you could wrap the bottom and sides of the bridge with some foam and add the warning tape on top of that.
Great Video Larry! I do like those PowerPoints and will consider replacing my existing power connection with those! 👍 My only tiny tip would be, well actually two, one, no matter how awesome your intention is to not bump the bridge especially when there are trains crossing, an elbow, shoulder, arm, or our pumpkin heads will find a way to do so and that is why I have the bridge locked so if it is knocked by accident, worst case, you'll have a train derail instead of your $$$$ trains making its way to the floor! 😭😭 The second one, along both sides of the bridge, I have LED light strips attached so you can clearly see the bridge is up! Trust me, we can get so into our hobby and be so focused on that 'one' thing that like a zombie, you will walk in a direction thinking the path is clear only to either bump into that darn bridge! With bright LED lights spanning across, it helps snap you out of that zombie-mode! lol Lets not forget all those relatives and friends that come to see you layout too! Cheers! Larry! 👍 PS, I'm sold on your book and will order it asap!
I likely will reinstall the slide locks to prevent damage and I mentioned adding flashing LEDs in the video.
Hey Larry. Just a update, I built my lift-gate using the DCC concepts power points and the images posted on their web side, it was a success, thanks for your video for the extra help
Hi Larry, Congratulations on your 300th video, that’s amazing! Using the new connectors makes the lift out bridge design genius! Very clever use of the connectors.
Congrats on the 300th video and the 35k subscribers. Another great video Larry
Congratulations on Video 300! You instructional videos were the often the best for solving many of my problems of converting my layout build from DC to DCC.
This is very clever. It seems like this approach would work just as well for modular layouts, which tend to have track at waist height and operators frequently need to get into the middle of the layout loop.
Another option to keep your screws from moving when bumped, on your 'existing' design from lance, would be to add some (blue or purple) loctite to the threads. Enough to prevent easy rotation, but still allow tightening and loosening with ease during planned adjustments
Thanks Larry. Great video. Rather serendipitous considering I'm building at least two lift-out bridges for my layout.
Hi Larry. I always look forward to Fridays (& Mondays) for your latest video. There is always so much to learn. Congratulations on video 300. What great achievement.
Larry, thanks for inspiring me to rebuild my own lift out bridge. I now have a convenient bridge with no plugs to connect, track sections on each side that are unpowered until the bridge is in place, and 2 flashing leds on each side to caution operators.
I used 2 Legacy PowerPoints on one end of the bridge, micro contact switches for track power control, and built the ac to dc converter with an LM7805 5v voltage regulator & KBP307 bridge rectifier.
This would never have happened without your guidance. So, thank you again! Let me know if you’re interested in seeing images of the completed project.
That is great to hear. I love mine now with the modifications and am glad others are seeing how much easier this approach makes using lift out bridges.
Omg this video have come at the perfect time. I’m just about to start building my new layout and I also have a bridge requirement. I’ll definitely be using these DCC contact. Congrats on your 300th video.
These alignment parts are awesome! I am currently working on my S Scale layout and will need this exact bridge system. Thank you for sharing this. Hopefully I can duplicate your design. Chris, Cbtrainnut
Good to know about this PP product as I have needed to modify my layout to remove a section to be able to walk through as crawling under now pretty difficult. It will be a Metcalfe PO209 viaduct / lift out section combo. Cheers
Great ideas for the lift out bridge. Thanks!
Glad you like them!
Another great video! Thanks you!
Thank you for sharing. What a great idea.👍
Thank you for a great video. This has been the best video about model railroad lift bridge building that I have seen on youtube. This method looks much nicer than using hinges.
Great video
Lots of great ideas!
I use these dowels on my lift-up section and they are excellent at maintaining alignment. I should add physical barriers to the track though - I do have keep alives in some locos and the layout is too small to have 24" plus of lead-ins both sides.
Well done as always....
Philip
Jersey Shore Area
Brilliant system, thanks for sharing!
Brilliant
Very nice work !!!
WHY!! This would have been a godsend when I was doing my liftouts.
As I showed it’s never too late for a rebuild.
@@TheDCCGuy True! Bunch of other stuff to get out of the way first, but true..
To protect our ‘chasm’ on our club layout when the bridge is out, we configured two relays at the adjacent switch toggles on each side of the bridge. If the bridge is not in place, these relays override the toggles controlling both switches, preventing access to the bridge route. Once the bridge is in place, the relays restore normal switch machine operation. Safest method of protection , as you cannot go where danger lurks.
Nice solution. I have also seen folks who use a Tortoise to raise and lower a rod placed in between the rails.
I had a place in my attic with a low beam. The best thing is carpet so it gets your attention and no wounds. The second time you will remember.
As my grandad used to say, nothing gets your attention like a 2x4 between the eyes!
Since several of your asked about stay alives I thought I’d post a comment on that topic. Obviously it is an issue since even when track power is cut there is the potential for a loco with a stay alive to keep running. However in my case I rarely use stay alives since (1) my frogs are powered, (2) I keep my track clean, and (3) I use the smallest available stay alives when I do use one thus limiting the run time. Also my dead track sections are 24” long which will catch most locos with a stay alive and I could easily extend that to 36” if need be. Another option would be to use a brake on DC stopping section but of course you’d have to have decoders in all your locos that support that function and not that many US makers offer it in their decoders.
I have also placed a copy of the diagram shown in the video on my website where you can download a copy. Just click the image and save to your computer. The website is larrypuckett.wordpress.com
Mr Larry. I'm not familiar with DCC but in DC if you have more than one locomotive in a consist then the second loco can act as a jumper and repower the section of dead track. Just out of precaution, wouldn't it be better to add a longer length of dead space before the bridge opening? Or perhaps have a physical pop up barrier that would stop a train. Could be as simple as a spring rod that goes down when the bridge is back in place.
Steam locos can be very sensitive to unpowered frogs, diesels, not so much.
So I think you should make something to hang the bridge on the wall near were it installs. That will help keep it from ever getting damaged.
Yes, I picture a pair of steel L brackets directly under the approach track where it will sit.
Hi Larry. I just enjoyed this video and didn't realize it's a year old! Wonderful video, but I can not find the power points you refer to. DCC Concepts doesn't list them any longer. Any idea where to find something similar? Ken.
They have them. Do ypur search for “Powerpoint” as one word.
Excellent video Larry, and gratz on 300 videos on this channel!!
I also was wondering about the bridge being up and a stay alive device in a loco. Do you have any suggestions for that situation?
Read the pinned comment.
do you have a diagram showing how the micro switch is wired to the track? that book you mentioned shows how you did it with the connectors installed and does not mention anything about installing and wiring a micro switch.
No, it is a simple on/off switch wired into the power supply wire.
My N scale around the room waist high layout had no convenient location for any kind of swing or lift out, so I use a duck under facilitated by a mechanics stool. I easily roll in and out of the layout area without any complications.
A lot of my operators are over 65 and have trouble getting out of a chair much less off a crawler. A lift out is so much easier to live with.
@@TheDCCGuy Surely you know the difference between a crawler and a mechanics stool.
Yes, and a 65+ year old can have equal difficulty getting up fro either. So e have to have lift assist chairs to even get up. It’s hell getting old!
You could add a IR beam to automatically open as you approach the bridge
But then I’d need a switch to turn the beam off when the bridge is in place.
When you remove the bridge with the new contacts installed, does it make a difference witch way you put the bridge back. Can the positive and neutral be reversed?
It is virtually impossible to reverse it since the 4 PowerPoints must match up and unless you use a special built drilling jig the chances of getting all 4 to do that. And even if you did it would not matter.
@@TheDCCGuy OK, Thank for the feedback.
Hi Larry, my only concern is when say a model has a large stay alive fitted. Would this mean that it could run off the end of the bridge or does the fact that one rail is powered and the other not being cause it to stop. Are there any CV settings that could help with this?
Was thinking the same thing
Read the pinned comment.
Hi Larry, How do you go about combating the wood from expanding and detracting through the seasonal months? Unfortunately our lift up section is on a corner and ever summer or winter we have to re-align the track work or close the gap at the cut in the rails because it either expands or detracts and causes noticeable gap to affect running.
One reason for the original leveling and centering approach was the possibility that it might be a problem. However my basement is heated and cooled and I run a dehumidifier 6-7 months of the year. This provides stable conditions for the wood so no issues with expansion/contraction occurred. One option would be to use extruded aluminum channel for the bridge. I initially looked into this but finally went with furniture grade poplar which is pretty stable in its own right.
@@TheDCCGuy many thanks for the advice
The DCC Concepts Power Points do provide a very elegant solution to powering and alignment, under most circumstances. Thanks for showing us exactly how you installed them. It seems simple enough.
But model railroaders are renowned for their very hard heads, which can accidentally impart significant lateral impact loading when the bridge is in place, should the modeler not duck low enough.
In light of this contingency, I would be inclined to retain the horizontal carriage bolts at either end, to absorb any lateral impact loading, which otherwise would have to be absorbed by the Power Points.
Yes, I likely will reinstall the slide locks on each end of the bridge to help “harden” the installation as well as prevent the bridge popping out when hit from below.
where can you find the conductive dowel joiners?
Larry - I’m trying to locate a place where I can purchase the powerpoints you used for building your lift out bridge. Well actually I ordered four from “LocoWorks”. I must have been asleep when I think I ordered from this company - in Great Britain because I can’t find the order. The company is in my credit card statement, but I can’t find the company on the Internet. Anyway, is there a local United States or Canadian place to order the powerpoints?
Iron Planet Hobbies. Locoworks is the Canadian company.
Goes to show you don’t need a nicely outfitted shop when engineering close tolerances, just a truck tailgate and a couple of spade bits! LOL. Model railroaders are such an innovative bunch…great video, Larry, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for answering the question about the stay alives.
One more question. I like the DCC concepts product that you have shown here. Do you still need something else for great alignment. I have seen copper clad sleepers and ProTrack being used.
The bridge I showed a photo of in the DCC Concepts office has copper clad sleepers at the ends where I used the Atlas rerailers. These provide greater protection for the rails just in case they get snagged when moving the bridge around. With the Atlas rerailers the rails are cast in the plastic so are not likely to get damaged. I think Hornby makes similar ones for UK track and of course DCC Concepts makes the copper clad sleepers.
@@TheDCCGuy thanks, I didn’t realize DCC Concepts make the copper clad sleepers. Great info!!!!
Great project. Cutting the power to the approach tracks will prevent locos from falling into the gap when the bridge is out - unless they have a keep-alive fitted which gives more than a couple of seconds of momentum. I believe there is a way with some decoders (ESU?) that will allow an immediate "stop" command to be sent upon detection of certain track conditions. (I don't fully understand how that works.) Are you aware of this and would it be possible to see a future video on its implementation?
I mentioned this in the video-it is a stop on DC function. I will be doing a video on using this feature as implemented in the Zen Black decoders as soon as they can get more decoders out of their Chinese factory. Right now electronics parts are as rare as hens teeth so we are in a holding pattern.
Great to know about this new product, Larry. And your videos are top-notch.
I've got an NCE DCC system and have two questions (this from a non-electrical person). Would these PowerPoint Dowels also work for running the DCC control bus between the NCE command station and boosters that are separated by a lift-out? Likewise, could they also be used for running a cab bus between UTPs (throttle panels) that are separated by a lift-out? Of course, these would be different PowerPoints than those used for the track power bus. Thanks!
Oops. Too late in the day. I may have just answered my own questions. Since the control bus and cab bus are cables, the PowerPoints would not work. The cables would need RJ-9 and RJ-12-compatible plugs/ports.
Exactly, all the more reason for going wireless!
You could, you just need lots of these power points. But data cables like these don't have that many issues with resistance so you can just go around the room with them if that's a possibility.
Hello Larry , I am going to order these from DCC concepts, you show a picture from them for a hinged lift gate, I am building a hinged gate , is there any specific instructions for this method, I would be interested in some detail thanks
That’s all I hVe but you might contact DCC Concepts to see whether they have more. Basically though a gate should just mean turning what I did on its side. Are you in the UK or US? If in the US then check with Iron Planet Hobbies for the dowels.
Hi Larry , I am in Canada , I emailed DCC concepts, did a screen grab from your video, will be ordering soon , starting a new layout
There is a Canadian company, Kingston Locomotive Works, that apparently has some DCC Concepts products.
Thanks Larry, I am a visual person , just need see how they did it , your way is easy , going to order 2 pair
Larry just a update , going to start the lift gate build, I think I enough information, will record the process thanks for all your help
Hi Larry, Congratulations on your 300th video, Where can I find it them here in the United states. I have two lift out bridges to install. So far I can only find them in the UK. Thanks for your help.
As I said in the video Iron Planet Hobbies has them in stock.
Larry how did you make the upper pins were drilled to match the lower connection pins, you did not show that
In the video I showed how I drilled through the upper and lower sections so the pins would be properly aligned.
I must of missed that detail
Hi Larry I see how you did , pilot hole , going order to order a set , is the drill kit included
Larry, thanks for this info. The Power Points could be a perfect solution for the modules I want to build. Are the connections magnetic, or is it a strictly gravity solution?
Strictly gravity. I would have used them on my modules had they been available at the time.
Are loco keep-alives an issue for the area near the lift-out? In theory, when the track section is open, there is no power in the nearby section of track. But a loco with keep-alive could roll into the abyss.
Read the pinned comment.
Can you draw diagram of how you wired the micro switches to the track? Thank You.
Iron Planet Hobbies is currently showing out of stock..... Anyone know of another USA source?
Looks like he sold out fast as last week he had a number in stock, but he has ordered more. In the meantime try Spring Creek Model Trains in Nebraska, or Kingston Locomotive Works in Kingston Ontario.
Where did you purchase the mico switches?
Probably from All Electronics. They also are for a project in the wining book.
What company did you get the electrical dowels.
What do you do with equipment that has a keep alive in it
Read the pinned comment.
Out of stock at Iron Planet Hobbies. Guess a bunch of viewers thought this was a good idea!
It doesn’t take many since he didn’t have a lot in stock, but he will get more.
Do you know where these can be purchased in the USA?
Why isn’t your lift out painted and lit like a grade crossing stop bar?
Because you didn’t build it for me.
@@TheDCCGuy I just thought that it would add a neat perspective. I’ll try to keep my ideas to myself. I hope you will forgive me.
No, no, your was a good idea, but it was not my approach. I did it that way originally because the Southern at the time painted their bridges black. The yellow striping was added as an afterthought and was the only color of such tape I could find at the time.
@@TheDCCGuy I missed the Southern Railroad; as N&W was quickly changing to NS when I moved to VA in 1977 & tried to get a job as a conductor but each time I went to put my application in N&W went on furlough hence- not hiring. I never worked for the RR industry although numerous cousins and at least one aunt worked for the B.A.R. near Bangor Maine.
@@TheDCCGuy Hi, different topic please; I'm creating a programming track on my new Digitrax Zephyr Express DCS52 and Kato Unitrack, is it sufficient to just put Kato 24-816 - Insulated UniJoiners in between a few sections of track or do I need to have a totally different section of track that is physically separated from the rest of the layout? Thanks! ( and yes, I am a newbie)
If you have a keep a lot of sugar in your locomotive you're going to have to move your dead zone boundaries further away from the bridge on each end.
But if you have Stay Alive installed in your DCC engines then the dead zone when bridge is removed will not stop the train from having a corn field meet with the floor…maybe ?
In this location loco speed is restricted since it was in either the town of Charlottesville or it was coming out of the staging yard. And if it turned out to be a problem then the stopping block could be extended back even further.
Won't an approaching loco with "keep alive" continue into the gully?
Depends on the length of the dead approach section and the loco speed. In my case I can cut the dead section further back if necessary to create a longer stopping block.
if it was genartior cord it would conection. you should of put the pins pointing down. so no one can get shocked,
There is no more of a safety concern here than having electrified rails exposed on the surface of the layout, think about it!
hello larry its is randy and i like u video is cool larry good luck whit the bride larry thanks fiends randy
Congratulations on 300 you could also use better tools
I’ll take any you send me!