Called a "cinch knot" where i come from in Tassie. My grandfather and great uncles who worked on Foster family farms would use it on the old heavy plain wire. I remember being taught it as a kid.
Hi Tim, for all these knot videos try standardize the color and position of the tubing. For example always use red tubing for the strainer side wire and blue tubing for the other side? Thanks for your videos, they help a lot!
Great video Tim , I really appreciate all your content. Now I have another knot to learn. I have always used a Donald knot for tying off when completing a strain and then moved to the speed knot about 10 years ago. Sometimes I use a combination of the two sharp wraps of a speed knot and a Donald knot. This Mansfield knot looks very similar to a Donald knot with the exception of the 11 final wraps. I’d find it very interesting for a strength comparison of each of these knots particularly in a strength percentage compared to the wire breaking strain.
Cheers mate. I thought it was similar to the Donald when I saw the start, then it gets very different. The loop section has a whole extra twist and then the tails get wrapped in a really interestingly different order. I’m thinking of another video, I’ll keep your suggestions in mind for sure
Looks easier to do than most .Tim would it work to join barbed wire ,seems to me would be easier than trying to feed barbed between the chain and wire multiple times ,you could test it ,we have alot of barbed wire fence in ireland
Haven’t really got a chance to really use it yet, but just looking at it. It looks like it would be easier to learn to do and also seems like it will stay in the jaws of the chain strainer easier for those of us that are kind of novices at doing this.
Was hoping to see Tim try tie the know and test that…😂 Great video - another knot to try master . At least I can come back to your videos , even when out in the paddock to refresh memory on the unders and overs 😅.
Howdy Tim loving your videos champ- first rate. Any idea what the timeline is the for the tutorial you said you are working on for post n rail/mortice and tenon with rj clarke fencing?
Do you have a table of all the knots that you have tested? Maybe you could show a comparison at the end of these test to failure videos for those of us that can’t remember at % the last knots failed.
For post and rail fence: Does hardwood rails have a lot of shrinkage that will cause issues and does cypress have less shrinkage to make a better fit? What is the best length of the rail? What equipment is needed to cut out the slots for the rails in the posts?
For post and rail fence: If replacing an existing fence and the holes aren't reused, should the contractor be responsible for filling in the old holes?
Greetings from here in these northwestern United States. This is the first I ran across this account, so if this is already known, apologies, but it doesn’t sound like it is, so here goes. I used this splice which my brother-in-law showed me when I was putting in 8000’ / 2 400 m of 4 strand barb wire fence for him. Twisted pair splice: Iowa barb (here in the west U.S. just ‘barb wire’) or plain 1) Untwist pairs ~6 - 8”/ 15 - 20 cm. Slide/twist any barbs off strands, using pliers to slightly unwrap barbs to loosen for easy sliding if needed. I used two fencing pliers to do these splices, so a longer set of tails may be needed to wrap by hand if using the bent-end ‘cranks’. Adapt to your preferences, tools, and hand strength. With the second fencing pliers you can chomp,chomp,chomp… your way around the tight wraps, wrapping each dead end down tight to the very end of its stub. Pretrim before final lay down. No need of a length for your fingers to get hold of for grip and leverage. 2) Leaving ~1”/3 cm clear of barbs beyond forks, push fork ends together. 3) Clamp the four-wire bundle together just to one side of the center, preferably with top jaws of fencing pliers which are grooved to fit. 4) Bend one end out 90°. 5) Wrap (twitch, as you say) the bent end 2 - 4 turns tightly around the two tension strands and remaining dead end, away from pliers in same spiral direction as pairs are twisted. Lay dead end along between the tension strand pair, under wrapping end, for neatness. 6) Bend remaining dead end, coming out from under wrap, 90° and wrap it 2 - 4 turns on. [ Maybe wrap around opposite direction? Whatever looks good to you; not critical to strength.] 7) Trim ends at a sharp angle and leave stubs to act as barbs if desired, or bend straight cut stubs around flush to the wraps with pliers (chomp,chomp,…) for a clean, smooth splice. 8) Move pliers to clamp on wrap next to the center, and bend the one of the opposite pair of dead ends which comes out from under the first 90° you made, also out 90°. This one should be nestled into the bend in the first wire, like a couple of kids hooking pinky fingers. 9) Now wrap 2 - 4 turns away from pliers, again in the same direction as the pairs, over the three strands. 10) Bend last dead end out 90° 11) Wrap 2 - 4 turns on down the pair, in same/opposite sense as you did on other side. 12) Trim as before. This should be at least as strong as the Mansfield knot, I.e. greater than 80% of original. Curious about how it will test. And it’s pretty! A tip of the hat to @martinilett7409, whose challenge to Tim in these comments inspired this post, which I chose to put here in the main comments for visibility, rather than as a Reply to him(?). I hope my word-picture is good enough that, with wire in hand, you can figure it out. I think which strand you bend in 8), and the direction, is the important point. When you make this, you should see the kinship to the Mansfield knot’s bends and wraps. P.S. What you call a ‘strainer’, or to ‘strain’ a fence, is to us a fence stretcher/stretching fence. An exact equivalent usage, so it takes no stretch of the imagination to substitute the words, but a ‘strainer’ to me is a wire mesh or perforated metal sieve. P.P.S. Search the ‘Western Union splice’, a single strand wire join. It might be suitable for some fencing uses. I haven’t used it to speak of.
@@TonyChancellor-v8t yeah that’s the original my old man taught me as a lad when fencing, he called it the Donaldson strainer knot and we had a and still have a set. Waratah is leading now lol. I may be wrong and that’s ok but it’s the exact knot that’s been on fences around my neck of the woods for many many years. I will try get a photo when out and about this week.
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Called a "cinch knot" where i come from in Tassie. My grandfather and great uncles who worked on Foster family farms would use it on the old heavy plain wire. I remember being taught it as a kid.
Hi Tim, for all these knot videos try standardize the color and position of the tubing. For example always use red tubing for the strainer side wire and blue tubing for the other side? Thanks for your videos, they help a lot!
Great video Tim , I really appreciate all your content. Now I have another knot to learn. I have always used a Donald knot for tying off when completing a strain and then moved to the speed knot about 10 years ago. Sometimes I use a combination of the two sharp wraps of a speed knot and a Donald knot. This Mansfield knot looks very similar to a Donald knot with the exception of the 11 final wraps.
I’d find it very interesting for a strength comparison of each of these knots particularly in a strength percentage compared to the wire breaking strain.
Cheers mate. I thought it was similar to the Donald when I saw the start, then it gets very different. The loop section has a whole extra twist and then the tails get wrapped in a really interestingly different order. I’m thinking of another video, I’ll keep your suggestions in mind for sure
Looks easier to do than most .Tim would it work to join barbed wire ,seems to me would be easier than trying to feed barbed between the chain and wire multiple times ,you could test it ,we have alot of barbed wire fence in ireland
How does he work out the heights for all his posts with undulating ground to keep the rails looking good
I gotta try this knot ... Thanks 👍
Hey Tim, have you done a video on pros and cons of types of smooth wire?
Cheers
ruclips.net/video/hkMlo0wIjyk/видео.htmlsi=nqOtv9IzLGbN9MDn
Good knot, will copy that to my 'phone and try it - will it be cow-resistant...? 🤔Looking forward to the post and rail video. 👍
For post and rail fence: What are the top causes of injury and how do you prevent them?
Haven’t really got a chance to really use it yet, but just looking at it. It looks like it would be easier to learn to do and also seems like it will stay in the jaws of the chain strainer easier for those of us that are kind of novices at doing this.
For post and rail fence: Does beveling the top of posts prevent splitting, or is that just an old tale?
Was hoping to see Tim try tie the know and test that…😂
Great video - another knot to try master .
At least I can come back to your videos , even when out in the paddock to refresh memory on the unders and overs 😅.
Howdy Tim
loving your videos champ- first rate. Any idea what the timeline is the for the tutorial you said you are working on for post n rail/mortice and tenon with rj clarke fencing?
Early next year mate. Little baby Jesus is getting in the way with his birthday bash. It’ll be worth the wait
Wicked knot....
For the post and rail fencing is like to know about treated pine vs other timber, and also best way to connect the rails to the posts
Plenty of contact for a hotwire join, nice knot.
What timber do you use for posts and are the rails the same timber
Great video and even better knot, Cheers
Nice fencing.
Do you have a table of all the knots that you have tested? Maybe you could show a comparison at the end of these test to failure videos for those of us that can’t remember at % the last knots failed.
Good idea. I’ll do a blog on that
For post and rail fence: Does hardwood rails have a lot of shrinkage that will cause issues and does cypress have less shrinkage to make a better fit? What is the best length of the rail? What equipment is needed to cut out the slots for the rails in the posts?
That is one strong knot!
And The knipex you were using I was the fist fencer to start using them
For post and rail fence: If replacing an existing fence and the holes aren't reused, should the contractor be responsible for filling in the old holes?
Sounds like I’d be getting involved in a blue by answering this one!! 😂
How does he keep the square post square to the fenceline when using a post driver
Hola,, do you know the Tex knot
Hola Amigo ruclips.net/video/4RSrWu_lxL0/видео.htmlsi=JIXZbUkpIHvEeGmd
Post and rail - would you mill your own timber?
Hi Tim, challenge for you, I reckon that knot would work with Iowa barb, prove me wrong
Good suggestion!
Greetings from here in these northwestern United States.
This is the first I ran across this account, so if this is already known, apologies, but it doesn’t sound like it is, so here goes. I used this splice which my brother-in-law showed me when I was putting in 8000’ / 2 400 m of 4 strand barb wire fence for him.
Twisted pair splice: Iowa barb (here in the west U.S. just ‘barb wire’) or plain
1) Untwist pairs ~6 - 8”/ 15 - 20 cm. Slide/twist any barbs off strands, using pliers to slightly unwrap barbs to loosen for easy sliding if needed.
I used two fencing pliers to do these splices, so a longer set of tails may be needed to wrap by hand if using the bent-end ‘cranks’. Adapt to your preferences, tools, and hand strength.
With the second fencing pliers you can chomp,chomp,chomp… your way around the tight wraps, wrapping each dead end down tight to the very end of its stub. Pretrim before final lay down. No need of a length for your fingers to get hold of for grip and leverage.
2) Leaving ~1”/3 cm clear of barbs beyond forks, push fork ends together.
3) Clamp the four-wire bundle together just to one side of the center, preferably with top jaws of fencing pliers which are grooved to fit.
4) Bend one end out 90°.
5) Wrap (twitch, as you say) the bent end 2 - 4 turns tightly around the two tension strands and remaining dead end, away from pliers in same spiral direction as pairs are twisted. Lay dead end along between the tension strand pair, under wrapping end, for neatness.
6) Bend remaining dead end, coming out from under wrap, 90° and wrap it 2 - 4 turns on. [ Maybe wrap around opposite direction? Whatever looks good to you; not critical to strength.]
7) Trim ends at a sharp angle and leave stubs to act as barbs if desired,
or bend straight cut stubs around flush to the wraps with pliers (chomp,chomp,…) for a clean, smooth splice.
8) Move pliers to clamp on wrap next to the center, and bend the one of the opposite pair of dead ends which comes out from under the first 90° you made, also out 90°. This one should be nestled into the bend in the first wire, like a couple of kids hooking pinky fingers.
9) Now wrap 2 - 4 turns away from pliers, again in the same direction as the pairs, over the three strands.
10) Bend last dead end out 90°
11) Wrap 2 - 4 turns on down the pair, in same/opposite sense as you did on other side.
12) Trim as before.
This should be at least as strong as the Mansfield knot, I.e. greater than 80% of original. Curious about how it will test.
And it’s pretty!
A tip of the hat to @martinilett7409, whose challenge to Tim in these comments inspired this post, which I chose to put here in the main comments for visibility, rather than as a Reply to him(?).
I hope my word-picture is good enough that, with wire in hand, you can figure it out. I think which strand you bend in 8), and the direction, is the important point.
When you make this, you should see the kinship to the Mansfield knot’s bends and wraps.
P.S. What you call a ‘strainer’, or to ‘strain’ a fence, is to us a fence stretcher/stretching fence. An exact equivalent usage, so it takes no stretch of the imagination to substitute the words, but a ‘strainer’ to me is a wire mesh or perforated metal sieve.
P.P.S. Search the ‘Western Union splice’, a single strand wire join. It might be suitable for some fencing uses. I haven’t used it to speak of.
I have some old fences with that knot
I would like to see how the knot goes on high tensile wire
It went to 500Kg at Henty on Murray 2.5mmHT which has a stated break strain of 540Kg but usually reaches 560
Nice
Donaldson strainer knot . Been around as long as the Donaldson strainers
ruclips.net/video/59_0uyoReWM/видео.htmlsi=S-9y44V3Axb3wmuN
I thought the main part of knot looked like Donald knot too but I think the way it’s tied is slight different.
@@TonyChancellor-v8t yeah that’s the original my old man taught me as a lad when fencing, he called it the Donaldson strainer knot and we had a and still have a set. Waratah is leading now lol. I may be wrong and that’s ok but it’s the exact knot that’s been on fences around my neck of the woods for many many years. I will try get a photo when out and about this week.
So as I understand the knot, the loop does not have any strengthening properties and essentially the strain is maintained in a straight line. I like.
Nice knot but how do you restrain the fence .
??? This knot is tied as you strain a fence. Do you mean how do you restrain a fence? I’m confused by the question
@FarmLearningTim All fences need to be restrained if the wire stretches
@@bradstar4077 What has that got to do with the knot?
Must be using black wire when you can wrap it with your hand. Try using No.9 wire and wrap it with your hands only.
You really should show a close-up of the note as you're breaking it, so we can see if there's unravelling before the break.
It wasn’t mate. And I showed where it broke
Nyce
...about the time I learn all your knots they get changed...🫤
Hahaha. The old ones are still the same….