PLEASE READ; DON'T SKIP Just some very friendly advice and I mean absolutely no disrespect, but you missed identifying some critical parts to this process. Please make sure your identifying the torque spec for the drain bolt, making sure people understand they should be using a new drain crush washer to prevent future leaks, checking the fill bolt o-ring for any kind of cracks or damage, making sure to only tighten the fill bolt just lightly since its just hard plastic. Don't just put in the same amount of fluid that you took out because it could have been wrong from manufacturing process. The transmission temperature should be around 140 degrees F to service it. Once new fluid is in, you have to shift through gears pushing fluid through the trans, driving it and rechecking the level port to make sure enough transmission fluid is in it. I could go on and on and on. All I'm saying is we have an obligation as experienced technicians to make sure we are including all steps in these processes so people can make sure they're doing this the right way otherwise they could damage their transmissions which we both know are extremely expensive. Everything can be found in KGIS and for $18 for 72 hour access to download the whole manual it's really worth the cost! Yesterday I had to service a 2017 Kia V6 AWD and there was no video on RUclips when I was hoping to find one on the Transfer Case fluid replacement procedure. It's different after the 2015 model year. They aren't the same, so I went on KGIS, paid $18 for the 72 hr access. Saved the whole manual as a PDF to my computer and access it anytime i want. It saved me hundreds of dollars instead of going to Kia.
Thank you @ Daniel.. Yah I thought there were a few key points to be put in. I'm not a mechanic. Just a guy trying to save a few dollars and do it my self. What kind of flush do I use? Which ATF is good. You hit some key points. Thank you 👌🇨🇦
That’s not ranting that’s truth. Customer expects you to fix it first time around unless it’s something they know about like if it’s a pesty intermittent issue but other than that I tell guys don’t guess or think you know what it is make sure you know what it is and TEST, TEST AND TEST. Then all is happy especially customer and that’s what you want a returning custy that confides in you and your abilities. Good seeing you again brother in arms. God bless you
I had a warranty job that has came back numerous times for mirror adjusting issues. First time was the R/H mirror motor was bad, second time the L/H power fold stopped working with no codes showing, was suppose to replace the whole assembly but the part that came in also had the same problem, no codes still, got another mirror assembly for the L/H side and still didn’t work but it finally gave me a code and pinpoint pointed me to the door module. This poor guy has been back for the same issues so many times and we can’t do much until the problem truly shows itself.
@@dearboy05 the pinpoint asks you to look for any breaks in the harness including the jumper harness inside the mirror assembly, if there isn’t any breaks then the conclusion, without any set DTCs, is to replace the mirror assembly. The modules are not serviceable by normal means and the circuitry inside cannot be ohms tested without breaking the shell.
the Optimas up to 2015 have been known to have pretty unreliable power mirrors. Mine had to be recoded so many times. that particular dealer wanted to charge me every time after the 2nd time and by the third time I requested them to replace the mirror assembly because it was within that B2B warranty period and it took dealing with Kia Corporate to get them to change it. They actually sent me down to a different dealer 10 miles away and never saw the issue again. Kia has come a very long way. The Stinger is an incredible car with a few mods.
I wonder which transmission line going into the transmission is the correct one that I can find a good tool removal area. I like the idea to drain, fill, run the engine while sticking the line into a clear bottle to catch what fluid comes from the torque converter and goes through a radiator tank or cooler, then stop when the bottle holds about a quart, add a new quart to the transmission and repeat the process a few times. A second person is needed to start and stop the engine quickly, even shifting through the gears a bit. I did this with my Subaru and it was very easy (3 cycles of the process). This way I was sure to get out a good amount of old fluid before resorting to driving again and simply mixing the new with the old. *Anyone have photos of the specific line that goes into the trans after it has performed the cooling cycle and is about to go into the trans functioning process?*
There should be a cover under the rad but that was already missing but it should have a couple clips. And the rest of the skid plate is held on with 10mm bolts the center of the skid plate has a hard plastic bar that holds what looks like 2 pieces of the skid plate but it can come out together and in the rear it can hook to help you hold the back in place while you put the bolts in. No bolts on the side that is up in the wheel well area
I did one on a 2012 the other day. I just drained it while cold than filled it while the front level check hole was removed and until fluid started coming out of it, I only used 3 quarts. after it was warmed up I opened the level check hole and nothing came out. car has 160,000 miles. I'm going to do monthly drain and fills until the fluid looks good than drain and fill it once a year after that...
Was wondering where you prefer to jack up the car when putting it on stands? I haven't had to jack up the rear yet, but on the front I want to jack it up where the LCA meets the subframe but my jack isn't low profile enough to reach it at the right angle without blocking the pinch welds. Where would you recommend, or should i get a lower profile jack to reach that spot I mentioned?
Hey what happened to the all the awesome videos you had from dealership fixing Hyundais. They were super helpful as it’s really hard to find DIY videos on Korean cars
Hey I'm from united Arab Emirates🇦🇪 I just buy kia optima 2013 hybrid US spec it's on 128k miles right now vehicle is perfect running and smoothly gear shifting without any problems, also I recently changed engine oil 5w20 which recommend dealership, may I know should i change transmission oil or what types of fluid can I use? There is sealed type of transmission guys😢
Hello. Was this your first time changing the transmission fluid in your car? I have a 2014 Optima SX Turbo with 55,000 km in Canada, and I haven't changed the transmission fluid since I bought it new.
When I was at Hyundai we changed the fluid every 50k kms they say it's life time fluid but it really isn't. This was actually a friend's car not mine. We get complaints about the transmission delay shifting slipping right around 100k but those are from people thinking it is lifetime fluid.
Snap-On are obviously great tools but unless you're a professional mechanic, don't waste your money on Snap-On. Pittsburgh (Harbor Freight) and Craftsman (not sure if they're still selling hand tools) are lifetime warranty and far less expensive. in fact, when my pittsburgh torque wrenches show any sign of slipping on the handle end where you tighten the spec you want, i go into HF and just get a new one. They're pretty great about it.
Is there a gasket on the pan to change the transmission filter where do you make your own gasket with a gasket sealer? And is the filter right behind the pan.. When I pull the pan off?
Older models will be silicone if it has the metal front pan. If it is plastic then there is a rubber gasket. There is no filter behind the pan just the valve body and the pickup/strainer isn't removable or accessible once the pan is off.
I wasn't told to take All my videos down. My gm told me I can't do it at work anymore but do it on my own time. I took them down cuz I thought it was what I should do.
not like motor oil but, If you have a shop manual it will say what type of fluid, your owners manual may tell you or call your local dealership parts department give them a VIN number and they will get you the correct fluid
I have a 2011 forte that has a slow drip. I am wanting ti check thr fluid level and top off. Docyou check the level while the vehicle is running in park? It appears so from this video I just wantvto verify first to make sure I dont pump out more fluid than just the access. Thanks in advance, great videos!
Does your Kia forte have a metal oil pan on the bottom of the transmission rather a plastic or some older ones can have a metal one on the side? Yours might still have a dipstick. Both will still need to check while running and on level ground. If it has a dip stick it should be an orange handle by the airbox and battery area.
@@theoffroadingmechanic thanks for the reply. Yeah I have the same setup as the optima it appears. No dipstick with a metal pan and same check plug on the front side plastic valve body cover. You video sure helped, I was unaware I needed to check fluid while car was running. Now that I have seen and verified I feel much more comfortable checking my fluid level. Thanks again!
If your sticking a funnel into that fill with the rubber hose sticking out beside it won't really help fill it you will either get trans fluid coming out of that and making a mess. You can slowly pour it in so it won't back up in pressure like what I did. Or remove the level check but if you pour to fast it will spill over the valve body behind that cover and out the level check misleading you to thinking it's full.
Don't leave the level check off, it wil spill. Your have to pour slowly or use a funnel with a hose attached (got from autozone). The alternative is you disconnect the cooler line to allow air to escape. If you use the funnel with hose you can apply pressure on the hose so it seals and pour slowly. When it burps, it will burp upwards from the funnel. Otherwise, it will burp around the port and spill. The next time I do this I am going to do a regular drain and fill, but then evacuate another 4 quarts from the cooler line while the engine is running while slowly filling as it is pumped out. This will allow the whole systems fluid to be replaced.
What are signs you need transmission fluid change. I have the same year make and model silver gold color. But sometimes when I drive, you know while you have your foot on the pedal and it sound like the engine stoo or it kind of stall and then you put foot on gas again and then it comes back to hearing the engine. It sounds like transmission. Mines is a little over 100,000 miles
There shouldn't been any sign of needing to change the fluid. It should be a regular maintenance thing. If you change your engine oil as a regular maintenance. It's like saying should I change it when the oil pressure light comes on or if it starts making noise. If your coming to a stop and it stalls or about to stall I would check to see if the throttle body is dirty. After cleaning will need to do an adaptive relearn. And if it is a Hyundai or a Kia they all use the same 2 wire inductive pick up crank sensor and the magnet gets week over time and loses crank signal when you slow down. Doesn't usually cause a check engine light or set any codes.
ok thank you!!!. I did it without car running, I'm guessing 5 quarts came out, I put one back in without running and oil came out hole!! big difference
If you are confident you are able to do it by all means you can give it a try or you can pay someone to do it. But doing it the first time you will know for next time. It's like that saying give a man a fish he eats for one day, teach him how to fish he will never go hungry. Or something like that. Just make sure you have everything you need to do it.
Good video. Thanks for posting. I noticed this is a Kia and you used Hyundai fluid. Would the reverse be OK as well? I have a Hyundai I want to drain and fill, and I have some leftover Kia fluid that I used in my 2016 Sportage - Kia SP4 M fluid. Do they both use the same formula? In both manuals, the description for replacement fluid is exactly the same, by the way. Thanks for your time.
They are the same fluid other than the SP4 RR for the Hyundai Genesis that cost a whole lot more. Just like Honda DW1 and Acura DW1 transmission fluid.
@@theoffroadingmechanic Thanks for the response. I find that in my area (VA, outside Washington DC) it seems that the Kia fluid is less expensive than the Hyundai - at least at the Kia dealership near me.
@@DanielWraps yea there's other option out there. The OEM stuff is expensive I just happen to have it at home. Even at the dealer BG supplies us with there trans fluid that come in 10qts containers.
@@theoffroadingmechanic Nice :) it's pretty clear you know what you're doing just asking that in future videos take the time and pretend your speaking to someone who is learning how to change ATF for the first time. Keep doing good things bro :)
Did you have to takeoff one of the intercooler lines so refilling the trans Didn’t take forever? Also I would’ve liked to see when you put the inspection cover back on, when exactly you consider a slow trickle so I could have a good idea.
This is a non turbo but you don't need to take the intercooler pipe but you will need to take off the intake for the airbox should be just 2 10mm. And the fill is just right there by the battery. Just don't fill it while the level check cover is off cuz it will just pour out of there and not really fill it. The valve body sticks out a bit from behind that cover and kind of directs the fluid out the check hole. I put the level check back when it's just slow trickle or a slow drip is fine.
@@theoffroadingmechanic sorry I misspoke, I meant disconnecting one of the two coolant lines to the transmission not the intercooler when filling so it doesn't take forever. And yes I understand the whole process I'm just really nervous about when to "call it", it seems like you let yours come to more of a slower trickle than in some other videos. Thanks for the info and the video I appreciate it.
@@6atlantis no worries, if it's still flowing out quite a bit then it just means it's still over level it is just a level check. There isn't any coolant lines other than the oil cooler lines. Unless you have a model where they slapped an oil cooler in front of that plastic pan and blocking the level check slightly. But disconnecting anything won't help in filling and I wouldn't rush in filling just pour a steady stream so it wouldn't back up and make a mess and you should be fine.
@@theoffroadingmechanic there are two transmission cooler lines under the battery, forward and to the right of the fill plug, right at the positive lead to the starter solenoid. I had a Hyundai tech tell me to disconnect either one of them so I don’t airlock when refilling. Either way it’s not a big deal I’m not in a rush, wish me luck thanks again.
Hey buddy quick question I just got a 2012 Kia Optima the HID headlights will not focus inwards I tried adjusting them with no resolution I was told that maybe the reflectors are worn out I was wondering if I do the halogen replacement headlights are they plugged and play? Is the main pigtail going into housing the same? Any help would be great thank you
He said they were decent. His old tires were getting low on tread. The tiger paws Did well in the snow fall we had. He also asked me to put a set on his mom's RVR. They were decently priced. And I get them through my parts department.
@@theoffroadingmechanic They have a good score on Consumer Reports. Only issue seems to be their rolling resistance is rather poor. I typically recommend Uniroyal, Laufenn, Hankook, Kelly and Fuzion tires to people looking for something budget friendly.
I have a 2014 Kia Optima (currently 170K miles) that I bought used (it had 124K miles) and I am thinking about doing this soon. Should I use any additives after replacing the fluid?
If it has been serviced regularly a regular drain and fill should be fine. Unless your having issues ie. Slipping or shift qualities and trying to remedy it with additives. My Honda fit had almost 200k kms (125k miles) and all I did was drain and filled regularly and changed the filter once at 100k kms. Never used any additives or cleaner and haven't had any issues.
Can I ask where are you allowed to dispose of old car parts in Vancouver/Burnaby? I was cleaning out my parents garage and i have stuff that goes back 20 years if not more 🤦
@@imadhondata5228 Just gasoline the hybrid is going to be different since it has an external electric oil pump rather than an internal one that's driven by the engine on the gasoline version and the pump doesn't operate unless in drive or reverse common failure for the pump to go when it doesn't make pressure anymore but on live data it shows rpm and the control module that's hidden behind the fender liner where water gets to it. Also the hybrid has an oil cooler if I remember that blocks off the level check mounted on the front oil pan. So definitely going to need a shop manual for capacity for a drain and fill and also see how much comes out of it when draining it.
Hi sorry I wanted to ask you a question looks like you know about these cars, I own a 2011 KIA optima SX with 177k miles, recently I have been having less power on it ive noticed that its RPM go up but car doesn't go anywhere and sometimes if I let go off gas pedal rpm stay stuck and car keeps going until I tap gas pedal seems to unlock it. I took it to local transmission shop adviced to replace fluid and now car feels worse. Any suggestions I really appreciate it. Also hear a whining when I accelerate from a stop. Thank you
Kind of hard without having the car in front of me. When you say the rpm goes up and not go anywhere is it slipping in gear or it's just not up shifting at a high rpm? If you haven't changed the fluid and it's the first time changing it then it making it worse is all the clutch material that was in the fluid that's helping it engage the clutch is probably gone and the new fluid isn't helping the clutches do it's job.
I believe it is a 22mm but I usually use a 3/8 drive cuz the battery tray or other things are in the way to be able to put a socket on it. There is actually another fill hole but not usually people use and it's above the final drive or differential way in the back and isn't a plastic plug with a crush washer.
Hey Juno glad to see you work on Korean vehicle again! Just wondering does the filter need to be changed on these sealed trans? Or just fluid change is fine? I see many people follow the manual and think trans fluid is life time fluid and their trans broke around 100k miles.
Haven't seen a filter on these trans and I have taking the valve body out to replace the harnesses for the updated trans temp sensor. Seen them start having delay engagement into drive at just over 120k kms and just pulling the fill plug the fluid is black and can see sparkles in them. Or on the hybrid such as the yf slipping or delay engagements and doesn't seem the fluid gets changed much on them. I guess that's lifetime fluid, life of the trans once you put a new one in you get new fluid in the fine print 😅
@@frankxu2321 the OEM fluid is expensive like $26/L but we use the BG fluid that comes in 8 litre case. Plus BG has a warranty when you use there stuff. Back in 2014 when I was an apprentice @ hyundai we replaced so many trans, shop was full of them. Not so much anymore but once in a while we get new customers no history and shifting problems. Never had the fluids changed.
@@theoffroadingmechanic Interesting, never know Hyundai have so many trans problem back then! Ironically now many dealers are full of Theta2 blocks and customers drive rental for months to get the replacement engine. Good to know BG offers the correct product. Some suggest me using multi vehicle fluid but I kindly refused. SP4 is rare enough not to mention SP4-M. I'm now using Aisin full synthetic SP4, $10 a quart bottle on eBay, since local dealer really not interested in selling me Hyundai fluid. (Their price is 50 USD a quart!!!) I still kinda feel the manual tricked me- it says change every 96000 KM under severe condition, but mine starts jerking really hard around 40000 KM when shifting from second to third in cold start, and the fluid is not red any more, LoL.
@@frankxu2321 I've been running Amsoil OE Synthetic ATF in my 2011 Sonata for the last 50k+ miles with good performance. Changed it at 60k and it's now at 113k. It's Hyundai/Kia SP-IV, SPH-IV, SP-IV-RR spec'd. I'll be doing it again soon. Just wanted to throw another option out there. Hyundai branded fluid is outrageously priced at my dealer also.
It appears that there is not room in your garage for a lift but wouldn't ramps make things much easier? As for work, your videos did not reflect well on Hyundai and Kia, regardless of what you want or intended. Good luck.
As to work videos, I was always impressed with diagnostic tools Hyundai provides. Also the quantity of their techs ( at least this one!) The issues presented didn't appear to be any worse than other manufacturers. I agree ramps would be really helpful.
Definitely need more space and a lift would be nice but for the time being this is going to have to do. There's a lot of things I want brake lathe tire machine etc. And right now I'm thinking of trading my snap on scanner for a new one with a 2 channel lab scope for work. Just need the money🥲
Hey guys please make sure you disconnect the one of the transmission cooler lines in front of the battery because when you go to fill the fluid from top you will make a mess everywhere and that will cost you money… This guy does not state that in his video 👎🏾👎🏾👎🏾👎🏾
You could do that but what if... just what if... the person before that owned it or the last person that serviced it had under filled it or I have had it under filled from the factory, you wouldn't know. Also you would have to account for expansion trans fluid expands quite a bit when it heats up.
PLEASE READ; DON'T SKIP
Just some very friendly advice and I mean absolutely no disrespect, but you missed identifying some critical parts to this process. Please make sure your identifying the torque spec for the drain bolt, making sure people understand they should be using a new drain crush washer to prevent future leaks, checking the fill bolt o-ring for any kind of cracks or damage, making sure to only tighten the fill bolt just lightly since its just hard plastic. Don't just put in the same amount of fluid that you took out because it could have been wrong from manufacturing process. The transmission temperature should be around 140 degrees F to service it. Once new fluid is in, you have to shift through gears pushing fluid through the trans, driving it and rechecking the level port to make sure enough transmission fluid is in it. I could go on and on and on. All I'm saying is we have an obligation as experienced technicians to make sure we are including all steps in these processes so people can make sure they're doing this the right way otherwise they could damage their transmissions which we both know are extremely expensive. Everything can be found in KGIS and for $18 for 72 hour access to download the whole manual it's really worth the cost!
Yesterday I had to service a 2017 Kia V6 AWD and there was no video on RUclips when I was hoping to find one on the Transfer Case fluid replacement procedure. It's different after the 2015 model year. They aren't the same, so I went on KGIS, paid $18 for the 72 hr access. Saved the whole manual as a PDF to my computer and access it anytime i want. It saved me hundreds of dollars instead of going to Kia.
Thank you @ Daniel..
Yah I thought there were a few key points to be put in.
I'm not a mechanic.
Just a guy trying to save a few dollars and do it my self.
What kind of flush do I use?
Which ATF is good.
You hit some key points.
Thank you 👌🇨🇦
Rite on, couldn't agree more.
🙄 The white knight has arrived.
@@tonygirney3516 genuine kia fluid or idemitsu fluid don’t use mult vehicle fluid only exact fit
What's KGIS?
A running commentary like this while working in your garage is fine!
Enjoyed the short story from the dealer ! Have a nice day sir !
Disagree, the short story from the dealer was distracting from the task at hand. Totally unnecessary.
I like these home garage maintenance work videos. thank you!
That’s not ranting that’s truth. Customer expects you to fix it first time around unless it’s something they know about like if it’s a pesty intermittent issue but other than that I tell guys don’t guess or think you know what it is make sure you know what it is and TEST, TEST AND TEST. Then all is happy especially customer and that’s what you want a returning custy that confides in you and your abilities. Good seeing you again brother in arms. God bless you
Thank you
Did mine last night. 2017 Kia Optima same set up. Did not go this easy and I was following the steps on AllData.
I had a warranty job that has came back numerous times for mirror adjusting issues. First time was the R/H mirror motor was bad, second time the L/H power fold stopped working with no codes showing, was suppose to replace the whole assembly but the part that came in also had the same problem, no codes still, got another mirror assembly for the L/H side and still didn’t work but it finally gave me a code and pinpoint pointed me to the door module.
This poor guy has been back for the same issues so many times and we can’t do much until the problem truly shows itself.
After the first replacement assembly didn't work, why wasn't troubleshooting done on all related circuitry?
@@dearboy05 the pinpoint asks you to look for any breaks in the harness including the jumper harness inside the mirror assembly, if there isn’t any breaks then the conclusion, without any set DTCs, is to replace the mirror assembly. The modules are not serviceable by normal means and the circuitry inside cannot be ohms tested without breaking the shell.
the Optimas up to 2015 have been known to have pretty unreliable power mirrors. Mine had to be recoded so many times. that particular dealer wanted to charge me every time after the 2nd time and by the third time I requested them to replace the mirror assembly because it was within that B2B warranty period and it took dealing with Kia Corporate to get them to change it. They actually sent me down to a different dealer 10 miles away and never saw the issue again. Kia has come a very long way. The Stinger is an incredible car with a few mods.
Nice video
Glad to see the process
Keep it coming.
Thank you
This ... Saturday.. im doing this ..same car ...thank you ..sir
I wonder which transmission line going into the transmission is the correct one that I can find a good tool removal area. I like the idea to drain, fill, run the engine while sticking the line into a clear bottle to catch what fluid comes from the torque converter and goes through a radiator tank or cooler, then stop when the bottle holds about a quart, add a new quart to the transmission and repeat the process a few times. A second person is needed to start and stop the engine quickly, even shifting through the gears a bit.
I did this with my Subaru and it was very easy (3 cycles of the process). This way I was sure to get out a good amount of old fluid before resorting to driving again and simply mixing the new with the old. *Anyone have photos of the specific line that goes into the trans after it has performed the cooling cycle and is about to go into the trans functioning process?*
Really enjoyed p-tech and Hy-tech videos. Too bad p-tech doesn't make videos anymore. I'll have to rely on hy-tech now
Thanks for the video. How many bolts and push clips you took out while removing skid plate?
There should be a cover under the rad but that was already missing but it should have a couple clips. And the rest of the skid plate is held on with 10mm bolts the center of the skid plate has a hard plastic bar that holds what looks like 2 pieces of the skid plate but it can come out together and in the rear it can hook to help you hold the back in place while you put the bolts in. No bolts on the side that is up in the wheel well area
I did one on a 2012 the other day. I just drained it while cold than filled it while the front level check hole was removed and until fluid started coming out of it, I only used 3 quarts. after it was warmed up I opened the level check hole and nothing came out. car has 160,000 miles. I'm going to do monthly drain and fills until the fluid looks good than drain and fill it once a year after that...
Thank you for making this video
Was wondering where you prefer to jack up the car when putting it on stands?
I haven't had to jack up the rear yet, but on the front I want to jack it up where the LCA meets the subframe but my jack isn't low profile enough to reach it at the right angle without blocking the pinch welds. Where would you recommend, or should i get a lower profile jack to reach that spot I mentioned?
Is this the same for 2013 kia optima? Thx
Should be the same for 2011-2015 of that generation.
i do mine at 50K here in south florida and it's still bright red, wow! that looks awful
Every 50k is good practice. Definitely a smart move.
Why would my 2014 Kia stop acceleration while the car was still running?
When I went to fill it back up fluid kept Comming out of filler spot felt like something was blocking it
Hey what happened to the all the awesome videos you had from dealership fixing Hyundais. They were super helpful as it’s really hard to find DIY videos on Korean cars
Not allowed to make videos at work anymore.
Is measuring the old oil and replacing it with the exact amount fine?
So just removing the level check plus and letting it drain removes the excess fluid? And then you just screw the plug back in when it’s at a trickle
Hey I'm from united Arab Emirates🇦🇪 I just buy kia optima 2013 hybrid US spec it's on 128k miles right now vehicle is perfect running and smoothly gear shifting without any problems, also I recently changed engine oil 5w20 which recommend dealership, may I know should i change transmission oil or what types of fluid can I use? There is sealed type of transmission guys😢
I usually just use the OEM fluid.
@@theoffroadingmechanic Dont no last when changed transmission oil but any way I will change it can you tell me how many Liters required?
Hola qué tal. Me gustaría saber qué pasa si se pasa de aceite la transmisión??;
Hello. Was this your first time changing the transmission fluid in your car? I have a 2014 Optima SX Turbo with 55,000 km in Canada, and I haven't changed the transmission fluid since I bought it new.
When I was at Hyundai we changed the fluid every 50k kms they say it's life time fluid but it really isn't. This was actually a friend's car not mine. We get complaints about the transmission delay shifting slipping right around 100k but those are from people thinking it is lifetime fluid.
you cant film at work anymore?
Nope not allowed anymore thought I put it in the video since everyone is asking.
@@theoffroadingmechanic About time to have a family owned shop 👍
Would love to see a tool box tour. Nice box you have over there, is it Snap On.
Yea snap on, but all my tools are in my work tool box. Only has some simple hand tools.
@@theoffroadingmechanic Quantity doesn't matter Would love to see the box and the drawers itself. If you have the time. ✌
@@wolleysegap9740 I'll put it in with another video.
@@theoffroadingmechanic Cool. 👍
Snap-On are obviously great tools but unless you're a professional mechanic, don't waste your money on Snap-On. Pittsburgh (Harbor Freight) and Craftsman (not sure if they're still selling hand tools) are lifetime warranty and far less expensive. in fact, when my pittsburgh torque wrenches show any sign of slipping on the handle end where you tighten the spec you want, i go into HF and just get a new one. They're pretty great about it.
Is it the same procedure for hyundai accent 2014 usa version that uses the automatic transaxle a6gf1 ???
If it has that pan in the front with the check plug it's pretty much the same. The accent before had a dipstick either 2012 or 2011 was the last year.
Is there a gasket on the pan to change the transmission filter where do you make your own gasket with a gasket sealer? And is the filter right behind the pan.. When I pull the pan off?
Older models will be silicone if it has the metal front pan. If it is plastic then there is a rubber gasket. There is no filter behind the pan just the valve body and the pickup/strainer isn't removable or accessible once the pan is off.
@@theoffroadingmechanic ok thank you for the info
I can see that I'm gonna have to eat a grape jelly and potted meat sandwich before I try to get this one 😋
Did they make you take all the videos down that you recorded at work also?
I wasn't told to take All my videos down. My gm told me I can't do it at work anymore but do it on my own time. I took them down cuz I thought it was what I should do.
How to know what is the correct fluid for the transmission? Have some type of numeric name like the engine oil? (like 5w30)
not like motor oil but, If you have a shop manual it will say what type of fluid, your owners manual may tell you or call your local dealership parts department give them a VIN number and they will get you the correct fluid
if change the auto filter , do we need to take out the whole gearbox?
the filter is inside of the transmission you have to remove the whole transmission and tear down the whole just to get to it.
I have a 2011 forte that has a slow drip. I am wanting ti check thr fluid level and top off. Docyou check the level while the vehicle is running in park? It appears so from this video I just wantvto verify first to make sure I dont pump out more fluid than just the access. Thanks in advance, great videos!
Does your Kia forte have a metal oil pan on the bottom of the transmission rather a plastic or some older ones can have a metal one on the side? Yours might still have a dipstick. Both will still need to check while running and on level ground. If it has a dip stick it should be an orange handle by the airbox and battery area.
@@theoffroadingmechanic thanks for the reply. Yeah I have the same setup as the optima it appears. No dipstick with a metal pan and same check plug on the front side plastic valve body cover. You video sure helped, I was unaware I needed to check fluid while car was running. Now that I have seen and verified I feel much more comfortable checking my fluid level. Thanks again!
I jave 2016 optima when first time to change it?
At what miles
We have been doing it at around 70k kms here at the dealership so about 50k ish miles
Should I remove the breather hose near the fill port ? It overflows unless the check level cap is off
If your sticking a funnel into that fill with the rubber hose sticking out beside it won't really help fill it you will either get trans fluid coming out of that and making a mess. You can slowly pour it in so it won't back up in pressure like what I did. Or remove the level check but if you pour to fast it will spill over the valve body behind that cover and out the level check misleading you to thinking it's full.
Don't leave the level check off, it wil spill. Your have to pour slowly or use a funnel with a hose attached (got from autozone). The alternative is you disconnect the cooler line to allow air to escape. If you use the funnel with hose you can apply pressure on the hose so it seals and pour slowly. When it burps, it will burp upwards from the funnel. Otherwise, it will burp around the port and spill. The next time I do this I am going to do a regular drain and fill, but then evacuate another 4 quarts from the cooler line while the engine is running while slowly filling as it is pumped out. This will allow the whole systems fluid to be replaced.
What are signs you need transmission fluid change. I have the same year make and model silver gold color. But sometimes when I drive, you know while you have your foot on the pedal and it sound like the engine stoo or it kind of stall and then you put foot on gas again and then it comes back to hearing the engine. It sounds like transmission. Mines is a little over 100,000 miles
There shouldn't been any sign of needing to change the fluid. It should be a regular maintenance thing. If you change your engine oil as a regular maintenance. It's like saying should I change it when the oil pressure light comes on or if it starts making noise. If your coming to a stop and it stalls or about to stall I would check to see if the throttle body is dirty. After cleaning will need to do an adaptive relearn. And if it is a Hyundai or a Kia they all use the same 2 wire inductive pick up crank sensor and the magnet gets week over time and loses crank signal when you slow down. Doesn't usually cause a check engine light or set any codes.
so car running in neutral, check oil level!?
Running in neutral, on leveled ground trans temp between 50-60 degrees celsius. Top up if needed
ok thank you!!!. I did it without car running, I'm guessing 5 quarts came out, I put one back in without running and oil came out hole!! big difference
Would these steps be the same for a 2015 optima? It looks like the same, but not 100% sure
Pretty much the same might have some minor changes.
same procedure on the hybrid?
Yup the only difference with a hybrid is that it has an external oil pump for the transmission.
I have a 2015 kia optima sxl turbo is there anything different from this that I would have to do
Pretty much similar
@@theoffroadingmechanic thank you
When should I change gearbox oil?
Don't remember there being a specified mileage but we would drain and fill it at 50-60k kms
Another question can I do this myself or do I need to take it to the Kia dealership
If you are confident you are able to do it by all means you can give it a try or you can pay someone to do it. But doing it the first time you will know for next time. It's like that saying give a man a fish he eats for one day, teach him how to fish he will never go hungry. Or something like that. Just make sure you have everything you need to do it.
@@theoffroadingmechanic I just found out there are a couple of recalls on the vehicle so I may have to take it to them. 4 recalls total
Good video. Thanks for posting. I noticed this is a Kia and you used Hyundai fluid. Would the reverse be OK as well? I have a Hyundai I want to drain and fill, and I have some leftover Kia fluid that I used in my 2016 Sportage - Kia SP4 M fluid. Do they both use the same formula? In both manuals, the description for replacement fluid is exactly the same, by the way. Thanks for your time.
They are the same fluid other than the SP4 RR for the Hyundai Genesis that cost a whole lot more. Just like Honda DW1 and Acura DW1 transmission fluid.
@@theoffroadingmechanic Thanks for the response. I find that in my area (VA, outside Washington DC) it seems that the Kia fluid is less expensive than the Hyundai - at least at the Kia dealership near me.
how much oil needed?
Thanks a lot cuz I really needed this but, what kind of the transmission oil did you use cuz i have a sonata 2016 2.0L
I used the OEM sp-4 m
you can use the Valvoline Max Life ATF that can be used for pretty much most vehicles. Any Kia that's for sure.
@@DanielWraps yea there's other option out there. The OEM stuff is expensive I just happen to have it at home. Even at the dealer BG supplies us with there trans fluid that come in 10qts containers.
@@theoffroadingmechanic Nice :) it's pretty clear you know what you're doing just asking that in future videos take the time and pretend your speaking to someone who is learning how to change ATF for the first time. Keep doing good things bro :)
@@DanielWraps Thanks a lot Daniel, I really appreciate your advice
Did you have to takeoff one of the intercooler lines so refilling the trans Didn’t take forever? Also I would’ve liked to see when you put the inspection cover back on, when exactly you consider a slow trickle so I could have a good idea.
This is a non turbo but you don't need to take the intercooler pipe but you will need to take off the intake for the airbox should be just 2 10mm. And the fill is just right there by the battery. Just don't fill it while the level check cover is off cuz it will just pour out of there and not really fill it. The valve body sticks out a bit from behind that cover and kind of directs the fluid out the check hole. I put the level check back when it's just slow trickle or a slow drip is fine.
@@theoffroadingmechanic sorry I misspoke, I meant disconnecting one of the two coolant lines to the transmission not the intercooler when filling so it doesn't take forever. And yes I understand the whole process I'm just really nervous about when to "call it", it seems like you let yours come to more of a slower trickle than in some other videos. Thanks for the info and the video I appreciate it.
@@6atlantis no worries, if it's still flowing out quite a bit then it just means it's still over level it is just a level check. There isn't any coolant lines other than the oil cooler lines. Unless you have a model where they slapped an oil cooler in front of that plastic pan and blocking the level check slightly. But disconnecting anything won't help in filling and I wouldn't rush in filling just pour a steady stream so it wouldn't back up and make a mess and you should be fine.
@@theoffroadingmechanic there are two transmission cooler lines under the battery, forward and to the right of the fill plug, right at the positive lead to the starter solenoid. I had a Hyundai tech tell me to disconnect either one of them so I don’t airlock when refilling. Either way it’s not a big deal I’m not in a rush, wish me luck thanks again.
Hey buddy quick question I just got a 2012 Kia Optima the HID headlights will not focus inwards I tried adjusting them with no resolution I was told that maybe the reflectors are worn out I was wondering if I do the halogen replacement headlights are they plugged and play? Is the main pigtail going into housing the same? Any help would be great thank you
I'm not 💯 sure most likely not plug and play. But the hid has auto leveling and the halogen does not.
How are those Uniroyal tires doing? Why did you put those on last time? Were they on sale or maybe he needed something economical but good?
He said they were decent. His old tires were getting low on tread. The tiger paws Did well in the snow fall we had. He also asked me to put a set on his mom's RVR. They were decently priced. And I get them through my parts department.
@@theoffroadingmechanic They have a good score on Consumer Reports. Only issue seems to be their rolling resistance is rather poor. I typically recommend Uniroyal, Laufenn, Hankook, Kelly and Fuzion tires to people looking for something budget friendly.
I have a 2014 Kia Optima (currently 170K miles) that I bought used (it had 124K miles) and I am thinking about doing this soon. Should I use any additives after replacing the fluid?
If it has been serviced regularly a regular drain and fill should be fine. Unless your having issues ie. Slipping or shift qualities and trying to remedy it with additives. My Honda fit had almost 200k kms (125k miles) and all I did was drain and filled regularly and changed the filter once at 100k kms. Never used any additives or cleaner and haven't had any issues.
@@theoffroadingmechanic Thank you for the input!
At the end of the video why did you let the tranny oil come out again?
That front plug on the plastic pan is to level check the fluid. Was letting the excess out it's at the proper level
Hi, how long did you have the leave the car running before you reached the level hole stopped dripping?
Does this work for a 2011 Kia Optima Automatic Transmission ?
If it has the same level check design yes. I think the 2011 may be the first year the optima came out for the kia. Not entirely sure.
@@theoffroadingmechanic Oh, and KGIS also has pictures for nearly everything including draining the fluid.
Can I ask where are you allowed to dispose of old car parts in Vancouver/Burnaby? I was cleaning out my parents garage and i have stuff that goes back 20 years if not more 🤦
Is it scrap metal? Or old batteries? There or company that take scrap metal and battery recycling places.
@@theoffroadingmechanic old shocks and springs, brake master cylinder, etc.
I have that same car and I have a question about my car
But what size did you use to take off the fill plug screw? 12mm or 14?
I used a 3/8 square drive extension. The level check is the same.
How many litres for regular drain and refill ?
5L should be more than enough but good to have some extra just in case.
@@theoffroadingmechanic for hybrid sonatas and optimas or just gasoline sonatas and optimas with 2.0 or 2.4 engines ?
@@imadhondata5228 Just gasoline the hybrid is going to be different since it has an external electric oil pump rather than an internal one that's driven by the engine on the gasoline version and the pump doesn't operate unless in drive or reverse common failure for the pump to go when it doesn't make pressure anymore but on live data it shows rpm and the control module that's hidden behind the fender liner where water gets to it. Also the hybrid has an oil cooler if I remember that blocks off the level check mounted on the front oil pan. So definitely going to need a shop manual for capacity for a drain and fill and also see how much comes out of it when draining it.
thank you
Hi sorry I wanted to ask you a question looks like you know about these cars, I own a 2011 KIA optima SX with 177k miles, recently I have been having less power on it ive noticed that its RPM go up but car doesn't go anywhere and sometimes if I let go off gas pedal rpm stay stuck and car keeps going until I tap gas pedal seems to unlock it. I took it to local transmission shop adviced to replace fluid and now car feels worse. Any suggestions I really appreciate it. Also hear a whining when I accelerate from a stop. Thank you
Kind of hard without having the car in front of me. When you say the rpm goes up and not go anywhere is it slipping in gear or it's just not up shifting at a high rpm? If you haven't changed the fluid and it's the first time changing it then it making it worse is all the clutch material that was in the fluid that's helping it engage the clutch is probably gone and the new fluid isn't helping the clutches do it's job.
Are you in California? Man I need a new mechanic!!
I am in canada
@@theoffroadingmechanic damm
Question: what is the socket size for the top breather bolt?
I believe it is a 22mm but I usually use a 3/8 drive cuz the battery tray or other things are in the way to be able to put a socket on it. There is actually another fill hole but not usually people use and it's above the final drive or differential way in the back and isn't a plastic plug with a crush washer.
Hey Juno glad to see you work on Korean vehicle again! Just wondering does the filter need to be changed on these sealed trans? Or just fluid change is fine?
I see many people follow the manual and think trans fluid is life time fluid and their trans broke around 100k miles.
Haven't seen a filter on these trans and I have taking the valve body out to replace the harnesses for the updated trans temp sensor. Seen them start having delay engagement into drive at just over 120k kms and just pulling the fill plug the fluid is black and can see sparkles in them. Or on the hybrid such as the yf slipping or delay engagements and doesn't seem the fluid gets changed much on them. I guess that's lifetime fluid, life of the trans once you put a new one in you get new fluid in the fine print 😅
@@theoffroadingmechanic True. And trans fluid change is billed $300+ in US dealerships, which persuade more owners to delay the maintenance.
@@frankxu2321 the OEM fluid is expensive like $26/L but we use the BG fluid that comes in 8 litre case. Plus BG has a warranty when you use there stuff. Back in 2014 when I was an apprentice @ hyundai we replaced so many trans, shop was full of them. Not so much anymore but once in a while we get new customers no history and shifting problems. Never had the fluids changed.
@@theoffroadingmechanic Interesting, never know Hyundai have so many trans problem back then! Ironically now many dealers are full of Theta2 blocks and customers drive rental for months to get the replacement engine.
Good to know BG offers the correct product. Some suggest me using multi vehicle fluid but I kindly refused. SP4 is rare enough not to mention SP4-M. I'm now using Aisin full synthetic SP4, $10 a quart bottle on eBay, since local dealer really not interested in selling me Hyundai fluid. (Their price is 50 USD a quart!!!) I still kinda feel the manual tricked me- it says change every 96000 KM under severe condition, but mine starts jerking really hard around 40000 KM when shifting from second to third in cold start, and the fluid is not red any more, LoL.
@@frankxu2321 I've been running Amsoil OE Synthetic ATF in my 2011 Sonata for the last 50k+ miles with good performance. Changed it at 60k and it's now at 113k. It's Hyundai/Kia SP-IV, SPH-IV, SP-IV-RR spec'd. I'll be doing it again soon. Just wanted to throw another option out there. Hyundai branded fluid is outrageously priced at my dealer also.
Que aceite usaste?
Doesn't hyundai say the transmission fluid is lifetime? I know kia does
From what Ive seen lifetime or not change it.
So 4L is enough?
You will need at least 5 bottles. Takes over 4 litres
You forgot to put the automatisch transmission in drive a few seconds before checking the oil level
how many quarts
5 is more than enough for a drain and fill. Good to have a little extra just in case.
@@theoffroadingmechanic thanks 🙏
how much oil?
4 to 5 liters
It appears that there is not room in your garage for a lift but wouldn't ramps make
things much easier?
As for work, your videos did not reflect well on Hyundai and Kia, regardless of what
you want or intended. Good luck.
As to work videos, I was always impressed with diagnostic tools Hyundai provides. Also the quantity of their techs ( at least this one!) The issues presented didn't appear to be any worse than other manufacturers.
I agree ramps would be really helpful.
Definitely need more space and a lift would be nice but for the time being this is going to have to do. There's a lot of things I want brake lathe tire machine etc. And right now I'm thinking of trading my snap on scanner for a new one with a 2 channel lab scope for work. Just need the money🥲
No wonder why is oil burner😂
Hey guys please make sure you disconnect the one of the transmission cooler lines in front of the battery because when you go to fill the fluid from top you will make a mess everywhere and that will cost you money… This guy does not state that in his video 👎🏾👎🏾👎🏾👎🏾
Good stuff
If there were NO leaks couldn't you just replace the exact same amount of fluid you drained out ???
You could do that but what if... just what if... the person before that owned it or the last person that serviced it had under filled it or I have had it under filled from the factory, you wouldn't know. Also you would have to account for expansion trans fluid expands quite a bit when it heats up.