Hello Ines, thank you for the informative videos. What material are the bags holding the pebbles? Where do you find them? What is the size of the gravel you need to put in the bags and the regeneration zone?
Hi Marc, thanks for your questions! The material of the gravel bags is the same material that is used to shade eg tennis courts. I think they use it also for advertising banners. - As you cannot buy those bags anywhere but at the Teichdoctor's (the inventor of the system), we looked for and found a company that produces them for us now. I do not know where you are from, but you can have a look at our shop where you could order them: teichschwimmer.com/produkt/teichsack-ohne-laschen-gruen-made-in-austria Unfortunatly, our homepage is not in English (yet) because there you have some more information on the bags: teichschwimmer.com/knowledge-base/teichsack - maybe that helps to understand a little...... The size of gravel is 16/32 - that means, pebbles sized between 16 and 32 mm. Best regards, Ines von Teichswimmer
So if I understand you correctly the depth is necessary for the thermal cycle, you need these temperatures differences between the surface water and the bottom of the pool, to make everything work? Now my question is instead of creating a 3.5m deep zone why not make the pool for example 2m deep over the whole length (which makes is a lot easier and cleaner to place the liner, less welds ) and make the pool less wide this way there is less surface that can be heated by the sun . This way I hope/believe the same thermal sycle can be achieved. What are your thoughts on this idea if I may ask?
I am afraid that will not work. Because the depth is not only necessary for the thermal flow, but also for the sediments (that you always have with natural water, and that I call "dust" sometimes) to be collected there and remain down there until you suck them out. If you have a natural pool/swim pond/swimmteich with a depth of only 2m, you will always rise those sediments when you stand/swim/dive and you will never be able to enjoy swimming in clear water. When you leave the water it will take some time and the sediments settle down again and the water will clear up. But if those sediments get stirred up all the time the nutrients that are bound in the sediments are released again and serve as food for the algae...... And another reason for the depth is that with that depth the water in your swimmteich will never overheat!
I've been looking into having a swim pond built. The builders around here (Southern California) recommend that the ponds aren't deeper than 8 feet. I wonder why... We have very hot and dry summers and shallow water will warm up quickly
Dear Suze, thanks for your interest. - You are perfectly right: shallow water warms up quickly and therefore can get turbid much easier. - I guess the reason why many builders recommend shallow water is 1) because of safety (because they say it's safer for non-swimmers), 2) my opinion: because they have not heard of other possiblities. (Chlorine) pools have always been that shallow, swimm ponds with plants work well with that depth (if the dimensions are correct) and it has always been that way. - Personally I think that that is the main reason: We have never heard of it - so we don't trust it. - But it would be interesting to hear their answer! - So if you get an answer from them, pls tell us! Best regards, Ines von teichswimmer
Hi Russel, thank for your comment and interest. This system, that works without technical units and without plants, is also based on natural water circulation. Due to the depth you have those thermical movement because that water at that depth remains cool, always. And, on the other hand, the detritus is not raised when it gathers at that depth. Like this, the nutrients remain bound in the detritus and do not get back into circulation....... so algae do not have much to feed on.....
Hi Melissa, we know of one project in Costa Rica - hot and humid - where an Italian English couple built (a swimmteich) according to this system 2 years ago and there it works well. But in fact, we think it should work. I can imagine it's easier to make it work when it's hot and humid, rather than hot and dry. Because of the water level. - With this system, the best refill is rain water. The water level can vary in a swimmteich up to 20cm without any problem. So if it's humid, you would not have to deal with that....... And as long as your deep zone is deep (at least 3m) and big enough (at least one third of the water body), it will not overheat. If you actually try, please let us know. So far, we have heard and realized that it's quite hard to get the right materials in the US. Like the liner, the pond bags, ...... things like that. And if you find the liner it's obviously difficult to find a professional who knows how to weld a liner. And If you are lucky and you find a welder it's really expensive. - So, this is what we have heard so far from families from the US.......
Hi, thanks for that interestsing question! - Well, we are not sure because nobody has ever tried it! - I assume it could work. The only missing thing is probably the wind that also has an effect on the natural water circulation. please make sure you let us know if you try it out!! Thanks, Ines von Teichswimmer
Hi - interesting question. For the function of a swimmteich it would not matter. The problems you have to face are: - How will you dig that hole, that deep? - How are you going to install with that depth? - How will you maintain it? - Well - that's probably the easiest part because you can just dive down to get the detritus out..... Best regards, Ines
Hi Marzena, last summer we heard of 29 degrees C. Personally, we never check...... And of course it also depends on the general size of the swimmteich. And down in the depth the water stays cool while the upper parts warm up.....
Can we construct a natural pond (not for swimming) with clay lining having length 24m, breadth 12m and depth 1.1m using this method and have desired water clarity?
Sorry, no way. You cannot have clear water with a depth of 1,1m. Unless you install filters. - you will find sediments in every natural water. Sediments sink to the ground and do no harm. But if you have a depth of only 1,1m, those sediments get stirred up every time you dive in or just swim. So the water will be turbid whenever using it......
Thank you for the new video! I've watched them all in the past few weeks
Thank YOU for watching them!
thank
for the new video!!
Very welcome!
Hello Ines, thank you for the informative videos. What material are the bags holding the pebbles? Where do you find them? What is the size of the gravel you need to put in the bags and the regeneration zone?
Hi Marc, thanks for your questions!
The material of the gravel bags is the same material that is used to shade eg tennis courts. I think they use it also for advertising banners. - As you cannot buy those bags anywhere but at the Teichdoctor's (the inventor of the system), we looked for and found a company that produces them for us now. I do not know where you are from, but you can have a look at our shop where you could order them: teichschwimmer.com/produkt/teichsack-ohne-laschen-gruen-made-in-austria
Unfortunatly, our homepage is not in English (yet) because there you have some more information on the bags: teichschwimmer.com/knowledge-base/teichsack - maybe that helps to understand a little......
The size of gravel is 16/32 - that means, pebbles sized between 16 and 32 mm.
Best regards, Ines von Teichswimmer
So if I understand you correctly the depth is necessary for the thermal cycle, you need these temperatures differences between the surface water and the bottom of the pool, to make everything work? Now my question is instead of creating a 3.5m deep zone why not make the pool for example 2m deep over the whole length (which makes is a lot easier and cleaner to place the liner, less welds ) and make the pool less wide this way there is less surface that can be heated by the sun . This way I hope/believe the same thermal sycle can be achieved. What are your thoughts on this idea if I may ask?
I am afraid that will not work. Because the depth is not only necessary for the thermal flow, but also for the sediments (that you always have with natural water, and that I call "dust" sometimes) to be collected there and remain down there until you suck them out. If you have a natural pool/swim pond/swimmteich with a depth of only 2m, you will always rise those sediments when you stand/swim/dive and you will never be able to enjoy swimming in clear water. When you leave the water it will take some time and the sediments settle down again and the water will clear up. But if those sediments get stirred up all the time the nutrients that are bound in the sediments are released again and serve as food for the algae......
And another reason for the depth is that with that depth the water in your swimmteich will never overheat!
I've been looking into having a swim pond built. The builders around here (Southern California) recommend that the ponds aren't deeper than 8 feet. I wonder why... We have very hot and dry summers and shallow water will warm up quickly
Dear Suze, thanks for your interest. - You are perfectly right: shallow water warms up quickly and therefore can get turbid much easier. - I guess the reason why many builders recommend shallow water is 1) because of safety (because they say it's safer for non-swimmers), 2) my opinion: because they have not heard of other possiblities. (Chlorine) pools have always been that shallow, swimm ponds with plants work well with that depth (if the dimensions are correct) and it has always been that way. -
Personally I think that that is the main reason: We have never heard of it - so we don't trust it. - But it would be interesting to hear their answer! - So if you get an answer from them, pls tell us!
Best regards, Ines von teichswimmer
Thanks for the video, but what is the reason for being so deep? What’s the advantage
Hi Russel, thank for your comment and interest.
This system, that works without technical units and without plants, is also based on natural water circulation. Due to the depth you have those thermical movement because that water at that depth remains cool, always. And, on the other hand, the detritus is not raised when it gathers at that depth. Like this, the nutrients remain bound in the detritus and do not get back into circulation....... so algae do not have much to feed on.....
Hi! Would this system work for a hot & humid environment? Looking to use this system in the southeast USA
Hi Melissa, we know of one project in Costa Rica - hot and humid - where an Italian English couple built (a swimmteich) according to this system 2 years ago and there it works well. But in fact, we think it should work. I can imagine it's easier to make it work when it's hot and humid, rather than hot and dry. Because of the water level. - With this system, the best refill is rain water. The water level can vary in a swimmteich up to 20cm without any problem. So if it's humid, you would not have to deal with that....... And as long as your deep zone is deep (at least 3m) and big enough (at least one third of the water body), it will not overheat.
If you actually try, please let us know. So far, we have heard and realized that it's quite hard to get the right materials in the US. Like the liner, the pond bags, ...... things like that. And if you find the liner it's obviously difficult to find a professional who knows how to weld a liner. And If you are lucky and you find a welder it's really expensive. - So, this is what we have heard so far from families from the US.......
Wouls a swimteich work inside a greenhouse? We have a 48 foot x 20 foot greenhouse we are wanting a pool inside of
Hi, thanks for that interestsing question! - Well, we are not sure because nobody has ever tried it! - I assume it could work. The only missing thing is probably the wind that also has an effect on the natural water circulation. please make sure you let us know if you try it out!! Thanks, Ines von Teichswimmer
@teichswimmer6746 Okay, we ordered your book and plan on reading through it and then decide if it is a good idea.
@@discovermormonfundamentali9685 pls keep us up-dated. And let us know, if you have any more questions after reading! Best, Ines
Is there a maximum depth? I like to freedive, and would be interested in building a deep pool (7 to 9m)
Hi - interesting question. For the function of a swimmteich it would not matter.
The problems you have to face are:
- How will you dig that hole, that deep?
- How are you going to install with that depth?
- How will you maintain it? - Well - that's probably the easiest part because you can just dive down to get the detritus out.....
Best regards, Ines
what the warmest temperature you can have in teichswimmer?
Hi Marzena, last summer we heard of 29 degrees C. Personally, we never check......
And of course it also depends on the general size of the swimmteich. And down in the depth the water stays cool while the upper parts warm up.....
Can we construct a natural pond (not for swimming) with clay lining having length 24m, breadth 12m and depth 1.1m using this method and have desired water clarity?
Sorry, no way. You cannot have clear water with a depth of 1,1m. Unless you install filters. - you will find sediments in every natural water. Sediments sink to the ground and do no harm. But if you have a depth of only 1,1m, those sediments get stirred up every time you dive in or just swim. So the water will be turbid whenever using it......