Thanks for the video. Very helpful. About to dig into one for the first time. Has 1st 2nd, reverse but doesn't move when you put it in overdrive, guessing sprag is bad or installed backwards
Could be, but more than likely, there is an issue with the 3-4 clutch. Normally it won't move at all in any forward gear if the sprag is bad. Sometimes if you put it in manual 3rd and it goes there, then the fwd sprag is okay.
@@IrocinZ you think so? My guy built it and he said he double checked it already and that it all looks good. From a stop you have to manually drop it down to first or 2nd for it to move but in OD it won't move from a stand still lol. I'll keep you updated ima dig into it today. Do you know if the bell housing and the valve body needs to be removed to get to the input drum?
@@horsepowerfactorytx Okay, well I must have been half asleep when I read your comment this morning and misunderstood it...lol. Yes, in manual 1st, 2nd, or drive, it moves but not in OD, then the sprag is probably your suspect...Sorry about that
@@horsepowerfactorytx And I missed the second question..Yes the bellhousing has to come off and you could probably snake the housing out but you'll save yourself a headache going back together it you take the valvebody and 2-4 Servo out.
Well just an update, sprag was good. Swapped VB still the same thing. So clueless at this point. Just for anyone in the future that has a similar issue.
You sure didn’t spend no time on this subject mine is a new cage but when it came apart the bearings tops and bottoms were ate up it was open tcc solenoid and I still ain’t figured out why but it smoked forward spray and bearings
Hey man I just replaced my dad's diff in his 03 Z71 suburban after it grenaded itself now he has to manually shift from 1st all the to drive for the gears to engage. any ideas why it won't shift on it's own?
There are a number of things that can cause that. Shift solenoids, fwd sprag, split Teflon ring on the input shaft, the 3/4 clutch itself, hydraulic leaks, missing check balls. Too much trans gel holding the checkballs that hasn't melted yet. I would start with a solenoid check as it's the least invasive...
Hey i have a 4l60e i just rebuilt and 3 & D are just neutral. No matter how much i put thought into it i can’t remember if i installed the sprag in the right position is this a possible symptom if it was installed wrong?
@@IrocinZ i made sure to pressure test the pistons before installing by putting air trough them so i have mentally prepared my self to bring that transmission down again tomorrow thank you!
Looking for help, my 4l65e when put on D and 3rd feels like neutral rpm’s rev up but doesn’t move only moves on 1/2 When shift manually every gear works but when come to a stop on D or 3rd looses gear and feels like neutral,,, Any suggestions on what it could be
Sounds like to me the 3/4 clutch is done. Or the Teflon seals are worn out on the input shaft. Either way, I'd be pulling it out for a teardown and inspection...
@@OscarGomez-jh2sz it could be caused by a bad MAF or plugged cats giving the MAF an incorrect reading so the ECM holds the gears longer. A faulty vehicle speed sensor will also cause that
Did you figure out what was wrong with it mine is doing that to but when i mess with 4x4 no gears worked and had to shut car off and on to get the transmission to start catching
Mine is doing the exact same thing and can’t figure it out. It’s not throwing any codes even on a shop scanner, and everything shifts fine if I do it manually up to D. It even downshifts perfectly when coming to a stop, but then I have to start in 1st again. Is this the sprag or an electrical issue?
Hey Smitty, 95 g20 w the 4L60E. I can manually put it into 1 and 2 and I have reverse. No speedometer, abs light on. I replaced the VSS and buffer, still have same issues. Any ideas?
You should have reverse no matter what. It is hydraulically controlled. My guess is it probably broke the sun shell. If so, you'll lose 2nd, 4th, and reverse. But that's only a guess. It is possible you have no power, or a weak ground to the trans with a torn stator shaft seal causing a hydraulic leak at the reverse input housing...hope this gives you some ideas....
@@IrocinZ I can manually put it into 1/2 on the column. It does nothing in Drive. I can manually up and down shift 1/2 on the column. No speedo and abs light. Leads me to believe its something electric.
@@coffeebeforetalkie4341 All except the no reverse....If you had reverse, then I'd say the forward sprag is broke. Kinda hard to diagnose long distance...lol
@@IrocinZ I have reverse. I understand the long distance diagnosis. Ha. So to be clear, I HAVE reverse, and can manually put it into 1 and 2 with the column. I have NOTHING in Drive. No speedometer. VSS and buffer replaced already.
@@coffeebeforetalkie4341 Then mechanically wise, the forward sprag is probably broken. Not related to your vss problem, just happens to be a coincidence...
Hi Smitty, I just subscribed to your channel and I enjoy a lot of your work, words, tips and videos, and thank you for the valuable informations you provide. Thank you very much. I hope that you accept me as a friend with all the best wishes for you and the family in health and safety.
super helpful thank you
Very easy to understand. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Welcome. Thanks for watching.
Hi Smitty, thank you for your videos! Greetings from Colombia.
You're welcome! Thanks for checking in!
Thanks for your straight forward way of teaching the 4l60e transmission.
@@benjohnson8816 I'm glad you like them!
MAN FROM THE HEART ❤ BRO U ARE A LIFE SAVER 💯 THANKS BRO !!!!IM FIXING MINE NOW
Thanks brother! I'm glad it was useful to you!
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. About to dig into one for the first time. Has 1st 2nd, reverse but doesn't move when you put it in overdrive, guessing sprag is bad or installed backwards
Could be, but more than likely, there is an issue with the 3-4 clutch. Normally it won't move at all in any forward gear if the sprag is bad. Sometimes if you put it in manual 3rd and it goes there, then the fwd sprag is okay.
@@IrocinZ you think so? My guy built it and he said he double checked it already and that it all looks good. From a stop you have to manually drop it down to first or 2nd for it to move but in OD it won't move from a stand still lol. I'll keep you updated ima dig into it today. Do you know if the bell housing and the valve body needs to be removed to get to the input drum?
@@horsepowerfactorytx Okay, well I must have been half asleep when I read your comment this morning and misunderstood it...lol. Yes, in manual 1st, 2nd, or drive, it moves but not in OD, then the sprag is probably your suspect...Sorry about that
@@horsepowerfactorytx And I missed the second question..Yes the bellhousing has to come off and you could probably snake the housing out but you'll save yourself a headache going back together it you take the valvebody and 2-4 Servo out.
Well just an update, sprag was good. Swapped VB still the same thing. So clueless at this point. Just for anyone in the future that has a similar issue.
Flawless work! Awesome thanks
Thank you!
You sure didn’t spend no time on this subject mine is a new cage but when it came apart the bearings tops and bottoms were ate up it was open tcc solenoid and I still ain’t figured out why but it smoked forward spray and bearings
There are several videos on the forward sprag. Check out the 700r4 videos too...
Your the man!!
I don't know about all that....lol...
Hey man I just replaced my dad's diff in his 03 Z71 suburban after it grenaded itself now he has to manually shift from 1st all the to drive for the gears to engage. any ideas why it won't shift on it's own?
Is the speedo working?
Smitty! Question for ya I have a fresh rebuild 1994 4l60e has 1,2,R no 3,4 doesn’t matter if I try to manually shift it or not still no 3,4
There are a number of things that can cause that. Shift solenoids, fwd sprag, split Teflon ring on the input shaft, the 3/4 clutch itself, hydraulic leaks, missing check balls. Too much trans gel holding the checkballs that hasn't melted yet. I would start with a solenoid check as it's the least invasive...
Hey i have a 4l60e i just rebuilt and 3 & D are just neutral. No matter how much i put thought into it i can’t remember if i installed the sprag in the right position is this a possible symptom if it was installed wrong?
Exactly your condition. But, you could have cut a seal on the 3-4 and it would result in the same condition...
@@IrocinZ i made sure to pressure test the pistons before installing by putting air trough them so i have mentally prepared my self to bring that transmission down again tomorrow thank you!
Is there a certain way lube holes should go on input sprag race to sun gear?
On this model, it is not important on the sprag.
@@IrocinZ is the oil slinger a good benefit to have on the rear planet? Or does it not make a difference I don't have one on my planetary.
Looking good man. I’m
Sure he will put it to the test
Looking for help, my 4l65e when put on D and 3rd feels like neutral rpm’s rev up but doesn’t move only moves on 1/2
When shift manually every gear works but when come to a stop on D or 3rd looses gear and feels like neutral,,,
Any suggestions on what it could be
Sounds like to me the 3/4 clutch is done. Or the Teflon seals are worn out on the input shaft. Either way, I'd be pulling it out for a teardown and inspection...
Forward piston
What you think it is whenever a transmission only goes in 2nd & first but not in drive or 3rd , but once im speeding and change it to 3 and D it works
It depends on your trans. What model are you referring?
4l60 04 silverado
@@OscarGomez-jh2sz it could be caused by a bad MAF or plugged cats giving the MAF an incorrect reading so the ECM holds the gears longer. A faulty vehicle speed sensor will also cause that
Did you figure out what was wrong with it mine is doing that to but when i mess with 4x4 no gears worked and had to shut car off and on to get the transmission to start catching
Mine is doing the exact same thing and can’t figure it out. It’s not throwing any codes even on a shop scanner, and everything shifts fine if I do it manually up to D. It even downshifts perfectly when coming to a stop, but then I have to start in 1st again. Is this the sprag or an electrical issue?
Hey Smitty, 95 g20 w the 4L60E. I can manually put it into 1 and 2 and I have reverse. No speedometer, abs light on. I replaced the VSS and buffer, still have same issues. Any ideas?
You should have reverse no matter what. It is hydraulically controlled. My guess is it probably broke the sun shell. If so, you'll lose 2nd, 4th, and reverse. But that's only a guess. It is possible you have no power, or a weak ground to the trans with a torn stator shaft seal causing a hydraulic leak at the reverse input housing...hope this gives you some ideas....
@@IrocinZ I can manually put it into 1/2 on the column. It does nothing in Drive. I can manually up and down shift 1/2 on the column. No speedo and abs light. Leads me to believe its something electric.
@@coffeebeforetalkie4341 All except the no reverse....If you had reverse, then I'd say the forward sprag is broke. Kinda hard to diagnose long distance...lol
@@IrocinZ I have reverse. I understand the long distance diagnosis. Ha. So to be clear, I HAVE reverse, and can manually put it into 1 and 2 with the column. I have NOTHING in Drive. No speedometer. VSS and buffer replaced already.
@@coffeebeforetalkie4341 Then mechanically wise, the forward sprag is probably broken. Not related to your vss problem, just happens to be a coincidence...
short and sweet
Hi Smitty, I just subscribed to your channel and I enjoy a lot of your work, words, tips and videos, and thank you for the valuable informations you provide. Thank you very much. I hope that you accept me as a friend with all the best wishes for you and the family in health and safety.
Thanks! I appreciate that!