A great cheap option is the Zoyi ZT-703S. Great for Automotive work and less than $100. Get some Hantek HT30A leads and you have a pretty handy set up.
Excellent video Eric👍 Use what you got. Any scope is better than no scope. I agree that the 1008 Hantek is better on the native Hantek software just because it's difficult to set the time base and sampling together to get a good capture. On the native software all you set is time base. The 2 and 4 channel Hanteks mite be better on hscope because they have better resolution but I don't have experience with them. I get a kick out of making tools myself and saving money. I make all kinds of custom probes, connectors, and accessories for my scopes and multi meters. You can put together nice kits and not spend alot of money. Having a scope and meters and knowing how to use them definitely ups your game and was a gamechanger for me. Great vid. Cheers
Thanks Marc! Yes, the Hantek does do well with its own software. With hscope, it seems to me anyway the Hanteks with a 5v input would be better suited. On its own software, it is very usable indeed. It had been a while since I used it with windows, but I still found it easy to remember how to run it. I just remembered it looked better on its own than the last time I used it with hscope and wanted to give it a go again. I'm happy I did re acquaint myself with it, and it was nice to see it not struggle at all with 3 different signals! The Hantek did come with the most accessories also. Makes it easier to get into than needing all of the leads upfront. Especially like us, if anyone goes the Hantek route and wants to make leads. I think It is easier to worry about making your next lead than making your first lead that you need to use your new scope. Even the automotive module is a nice touch to get started. I did not use it on automotive for this and still had all 3 signals on the screen when I turned the key. Take care and thanks for commenting!
@survivingga I do want to pick one of those up at some point. Darren from Mechabic Mindset uses one often with great results. Plus they have very good waveform libraries and most of the "known good" wave forms are in pico format. Thanks for mentioning that scope. Christmas is coming!
I've been playing with the idea of getting a scope. I was thinking about getting the hand held scope that Advanced Level Diagnostics uses. Its a 2 channel scope. The control buttons look easier to use than the U Scope. I can picture myself getting frustrated with the U Scope and using it for a hockey puck. I can't justify spending for a laptop and a Hantek at this time. I'd rather put money towards a professional scan tool.
@mlieser1230 I have never used the handheld 2 channels but have seen Darrin from Mechanic Mindset use one. He seems to like it but when you do find an issue, he has a Picoscope to fall back on. That is where if you only do have 1 scope and for the price the Hs501 and 512 from Martin Lauren can get you more definition and ease my older eyes. It's under 100 bucks and you use an android tablet or phone for the screen. It actually uses the androids bandwidth to get you a very long buffer to review data. Any scope is good if you match it to what you intend to use it for in advance. The handheld is more convenient to store and use, just keep the buffer length in mind. Like is it a hard miss that you are actively under the hood watching? Or do you need to wait for an intermittent misfire or perform a few snap throttles and jiggle wires to make it miss? The buffer would be key on the second scenario. Good luck with whichever one you choose and be sure to let me know what you think of the handheld if you go that route!
I use the scope that Advanced Level Diagnostics uses. Ivan from Pine Hollow also uses it. I use it all the time to diagnose CAN Bus issues. It has excellent specs for the price. I would recommend it. The HSCOPE does not have better specs than the handheld one I use. I think the Uscope is too expensive for what you get with only 1 channel and the specs.
@ChiefDLK Yes , that seems where people like the handhelds . I might pick one up in the future. I've seen the tablet style as well that seem interesting. They all seem to have a purpose you get acquainted with them. The Uscope, while not the most useful, will always have a place in my heart. First scopes always do lol. I figured put out what economy ones I do have, I wish I woukd have seen more of the same signal on different scopes when I was looking. You see some good scopes on a tough primary and then some weaker scopes on an easier one , it makes things muddy. A handheld might be the next on the list. Thanks for dropping by!
@djmobileauto Thanks DJ ! I was making a few test leads and figured show all of the scopes on the same signal to kind of help anyone considering any of them. After all, I bought them all lol. The Uscoope I had a few non gdi injectors that fell into weird areas. I believe chevy spider injectors the x10 attenuator looked very small and lost definition. No attenuator it overscaled slightly but looked very good. I believe I only have an ac and a x10 for the Uscope. Thanks for the warning on the GDI, you probably saved my Uscope! Take care!
@philh9238 I did notice a few misfire looking events, hscope and the hantek would drop the signal momentarily. Uscope and the modis, it looked like a miss. I was attributing it to the uninsulated rca jack or possibly the gdi. Didn't feel like it was missing, but looking back, a pulse sensor would have picked up on it easy enough . Good eye!
@philh9238 In theory, that is correct. In practice, if I was going to analyze the waveform, I would have made sure it was up to operating temp. The fast idle is coming down, iacs affect the wave for sure. With the Uscope, the engine was overnight cold start. Once it is warm and usually higher rpm, I look for repetition. That's when you woukd want to take single images and do measurements. The engine has a harder time breathing at idle, but the ignition has an easier time. Higher rom, the engine breathes easier and we start stressing the ignition. Thats where I'd look for a more classic wave form to look at ignition. Hope that makes sense! Take care !
Great overview thx.
A great cheap option is the Zoyi ZT-703S. Great for Automotive work and less than $100. Get some Hantek HT30A leads and you have a pretty handy set up.
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Excellent video Eric👍 Use what you got. Any scope is better than no scope. I agree that the 1008 Hantek is better on the native Hantek software just because it's difficult to set the time base and sampling together to get a good capture. On the native software all you set is time base. The 2 and 4 channel Hanteks mite be better on hscope because they have better resolution but I don't have experience with them. I get a kick out of making tools myself and saving money. I make all kinds of custom probes, connectors, and accessories for my scopes and multi meters. You can put together nice kits and not spend alot of money. Having a scope and meters and knowing how to use them definitely ups your game and was a gamechanger for me. Great vid. Cheers
Thanks Marc! Yes, the Hantek does do well with its own software. With hscope, it seems to me anyway the Hanteks with a 5v input would be better suited. On its own software, it is very usable indeed. It had been a while since I used it with windows, but I still found it easy to remember how to run it. I just remembered it looked better on its own than the last time I used it with hscope and wanted to give it a go again. I'm happy I did re acquaint myself with it, and it was nice to see it not struggle at all with 3 different signals! The Hantek did come with the most accessories also. Makes it easier to get into than needing all of the leads upfront. Especially like us, if anyone goes the Hantek route and wants to make leads. I think It is easier to worry about making your next lead than making your first lead that you need to use your new scope. Even the automotive module is a nice touch to get started. I did not use it on automotive for this and still had all 3 signals on the screen when I turned the key. Take care and thanks for commenting!
Joe Caci joes automotive sells the MT pro (rotkee) btw if you want one.
Great video for getting started with scopes. Another good option is the Pico 2204. I like it because it uses the Pico 7 software.
@survivingga I do want to pick one of those up at some point. Darren from Mechabic Mindset uses one often with great results. Plus they have very good waveform libraries and most of the "known good" wave forms are in pico format. Thanks for mentioning that scope. Christmas is coming!
Don’t forget it’s best to use shielded wire when you can and shield the ground so no noise that’s what you are paying for in pico
I've been playing with the idea of getting a scope. I was thinking about getting the hand held scope that Advanced Level Diagnostics uses. Its a 2 channel scope. The control buttons look easier to use than the U Scope. I can picture myself getting frustrated with the U Scope and using it for a hockey puck. I can't justify spending for a laptop and a Hantek at this time. I'd rather put money towards a professional scan tool.
In my opinion, grab the HSCOPE. It much better
@mlieser1230 I have never used the handheld 2 channels but have seen Darrin from Mechanic Mindset use one. He seems to like it but when you do find an issue, he has a Picoscope to fall back on. That is where if you only do have 1 scope and for the price the Hs501 and 512 from Martin Lauren can get you more definition and ease my older eyes. It's under 100 bucks and you use an android tablet or phone for the screen. It actually uses the androids bandwidth to get you a very long buffer to review data.
Any scope is good if you match it to what you intend to use it for in advance. The handheld is more convenient to store and use, just keep the buffer length in mind. Like is it a hard miss that you are actively under the hood watching? Or do you need to wait for an intermittent misfire or perform a few snap throttles and jiggle wires to make it miss? The buffer would be key on the second scenario.
Good luck with whichever one you choose and be sure to let me know what you think of the handheld if you go that route!
I use the scope that Advanced Level Diagnostics uses. Ivan from Pine Hollow also uses it. I use it all the time to diagnose CAN Bus issues. It has excellent specs for the price. I would recommend it. The HSCOPE does not have better specs than the handheld one I use. I think the Uscope is too expensive for what you get with only 1 channel and the specs.
@ChiefDLK Yes , that seems where people like the handhelds . I might pick one up in the future. I've seen the tablet style as well that seem interesting. They all seem to have a purpose you get acquainted with them. The Uscope, while not the most useful, will always have a place in my heart. First scopes always do lol. I figured put out what economy ones I do have, I wish I woukd have seen more of the same signal on different scopes when I was looking. You see some good scopes on a tough primary and then some weaker scopes on an easier one , it makes things muddy. A handheld might be the next on the list. Thanks for dropping by!
Solid video. Just jump off a hyundai GDI myself. Be careful with the uscope with the injectors on this vehicle.
@djmobileauto Thanks DJ ! I was making a few test leads and figured show all of the scopes on the same signal to kind of help anyone considering any of them. After all, I bought them all lol.
The Uscoope I had a few non gdi injectors that fell into weird areas. I believe chevy spider injectors the x10 attenuator looked very small and lost definition. No attenuator it overscaled slightly but looked very good. I believe I only have an ac and a x10 for the Uscope.
Thanks for the warning on the GDI, you probably saved my Uscope! Take care!
How did the gdi injector affect your uscope? Thanks
Links, links, links. Rule #1 for a useful RUclips video: leave links to the equipment you are discussing.
@@dgoulian Totally slipped my mind, I added them to the description. Thanks!
@21 minutes using uscope looking At primary ignition was it misfiring because the burn time kept changing or was it a triggering issue
@philh9238 I did notice a few misfire looking events, hscope and the hantek would drop the signal momentarily. Uscope and the modis, it looked like a miss. I was attributing it to the uninsulated rca jack or possibly the gdi. Didn't feel like it was missing, but looking back, a pulse sensor would have picked up on it easy enough . Good eye!
I’m new to ignition waveforms. I figured if the burn line goes a way it’s a miss. Still got tons to figure out.
@philh9238 In theory, that is correct. In practice, if I was going to analyze the waveform, I would have made sure it was up to operating temp. The fast idle is coming down, iacs affect the wave for sure. With the Uscope, the engine was overnight cold start. Once it is warm and usually higher rpm, I look for repetition. That's when you woukd want to take single images and do measurements. The engine has a harder time breathing at idle, but the ignition has an easier time. Higher rom, the engine breathes easier and we start stressing the ignition. Thats where I'd look for a more classic wave form to look at ignition. Hope that makes sense! Take care !
Good content.