PowerTec 10 EP 12 Electronic Rod Balancer $15.00
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- PowerTec 10 EP 12 Electronic Rod Balancer $15.00
Getting a pro to balance your rods will cost many times more than making your own rod balancer.
Here DV shows you two options, one of which can be made for about $15.
IOP Porting software davidvizardperf...
TorqueMaster software davidvizardperf...
If you are savvy enough to read this description For a limited time you will receive a $25.00 refund on purchase of the full versions of above software's. To receive the refund you need to drop me an email with your invoice# after purchase @ davidvizardseminar@gmail.com
If you purchase the 90 day trial versions for $10.00 The same as above applies after purchase of full versions plus the $10.00 trial purchase price for a total of $35.00 refund.
Email davidvizardseminar@gmail.com
Website davidvizardperf...
Facebook / davidvizard434
EDELBROCK Performer RPM intermediate Porting video part 1 Video: • Edelbrock intermediate... 
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HI DAVID IM SO SORRY FOR YOUR LOSS , GOD BLESS HER AND YOUR FAMILY , THANKS FOR ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO
I'm sure i read about this fixture in one of your books and built my own back in the 80's. Worked excellent then and now. Thank You sir.
Thank you for sharing.
So sorry for the loss of your daughter. I am sure you have many happy memories to cherish.
With regards to your videos.I really enjoy them and the knowledge that comes with them.
Thanks again.
Kind Regards
Been following you since my teen's, now 62.
Used your knowledge on a kart engine, looks to be most powerfull Atmo biland sa250 I know of, all from you. Thanks Dave.
UK.
Yeah, I'm nearly 60, & back in the 80's I had a backyard full of Minis & his book "How to Modify your Mini" was the bible 👍
@@lancecooper4646 I found the mini modifying book in my teens as well (32 now) so I'm a bit junior to you guys, but nonetheless, the concepts, the math and engineering behind the information in that book made me a big fan of Mr. Vizard.
@@life_of_riley88 yeah, I've hunted down some of his other books on ebay as well, before the interweb came along, info like his was like striking gold & it's good to see he's on here too 👍
Thank you for sharing some of your knowledge
OK OK After watching 3 videos i relented and subscribed with a LIKE. Oh how i wish i had seen these videos in 1967. or even 1964. In 64 i was building my first engine, 1957 Olds 371 to go into my 47 Chevy Coupe, with the Olds Hydro and Rear end swapped in to. The engine had cam with higher lift otherwise stock rebuild. it ran like a scalded cat until down shifted too soon and overrev'd the old springs and a valve broke a piston. The rod flew (literally) out the side of the oil pan. I had no one ask or check what i was doing. I was 15. The cam came with instructions to replace the 57 rocker assembly with 1954, But I was poor and had no access to parts and did not fully understand why. Well my Dad was so disappointed he banned me from fixing the engine and had the 47 towed away. He was a farmer not a mechanic. But later in 67, I sold the 327 in my 64 Corvette and was building a Big Block Chevy. Working at a gas station has me some money to spend. Domed Pistons, Pink Rods, etc but the Rod Bolt nuts were castle-ated. my thick socket set did not fit perfectly over the nut as the rod was heavier and left little space for a cheap thick socket. I held the socket square and torqued the nuts down but it was hard to do. I had a ZL1 cam from a CanAm race car that was simply nuts. It idles really ruff about 1,200 rpm. I had 3 2 barrels holley's off the 435 HP 427 but i think they were 400 HP version and smaller jets. The engine was raucous and would overheat at red lights. Still had the 327 radiator. But the engine pulled slow and never seemed to show the power expected. I had a plan to let a race team mechanic check it out and see what was wrong but the day before i was to go there i was showing another fellow the problem when a rod cap let go and once again I had a rod fly out the oil pan. Its was pretty bad. I never built another engine. My Grand father build Ford engines for NASCAR in the 50s. but he was too far away to consult. So you see your videos may have helped me to achieve a life dream. I did get one last engine build. I paid a serious engine builder to assemble a 1998 LS1 for my C5 Corvette. And it all worked out, great. Iron Block, Malhe pistons, H-Beam Rods, Crane Cam, Balanced, Roller Rockers and Oil Accumulator for oiled starts. Then a Magnuson Supercharger with air to water intercooler and methanol injection at WOT. I will likely never build an engine, but watching your videos shows me how much i did not know and how i could have build a good engine if i had seen these things. Well done, practical, useful information with out the drama. However, a few points i would like to share, You should try to add some summary concrete demonstration of the results in your lectures. Like a worksheet on the 8 rods with weights entered on each one before and after balancing. Or a chart with the air flow rates before and after porting the tunnel ram so we could see real numbers and the impact of the porting. You are a seriously experienced engine builder and it is great to share your knowledge. Please keep it up. Dennis in Virginia
Excellent presentation, we are extremely fortunate to have the ability to get the inside line on making power from a legendary engine builder. I also recommend your head porting book.
I couldnt get this rod hanger string vertical on the planes due to the rotation of the spinning globe .😂
Mr. Vizard, I am so sorry for your loss.
Thank you for the technical knowledge and wisdom you give so freely here on RUclips. I enjoy your videos and the education I receive every time I watch one.
So if you wanted to try and get them perfect wear would you remove the metal from
I’m so sorry about the loss of Your daughter. I lost my son at the age of 20. It is the most painful experience I think a parent who loves their kids can endure. I’m sorry we share that but I know what you’ve been through. God bless, David.
learn something good everytime, thank u
Nothing to dislike about David Vizard!!! his information is always vetted over long periods of time, scientific and easily digested the average builder. His books are outstanding and nicely updated as new volumes are released. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Now that the moments are balanced, how do we match to match C.G. and weight?
Great info. Thanks for another great info.
Vary practical.
Condolences.
Ancient Buddhist blessing:
Grandfather dies,
Father dies,
Son dies.
It's the natural order of life, anything else is tragic. So sorry for your loss and pain.
Oil Extreme?
I used to work for an automotive machine shop back in the 60's and many a connecting rod for high performance street and some drag race engines had the stock rods honed for a slip fit piston pin. We never had a comeback due to this procedure. Back then, the choice for a SBC was the pink rod. There were very few aftermarket rods available that were affordable to the average Joe.
Excellent
I saw that balancer for sale years ago but it said that it's only for small block chevy rods. But I play with ford and chrysler mainly. I'd love it if it did more than chevies.
If you start with the lightest rod and ballance them all to that rod, they all end up perfect end for end and the CG,s should be as close as they can be.
A wise man could index that pin to give the mass difference, should one accrue. 🤯
Very cool and thanks for your skill and insight
What's your take on friction reducing coatings like DLC and molybdenum, and where to use them?
highly effective when applied to fuel pump eccentric
You have any books or videos on la motor? Like how you think and work.
You mean a Dodge motor? I don't believe he does, but darned near all of his writings about engine dynamics will apply to your old Mopar.
👍👍
Missing teacher put to translation
I have had several powder metal rods fracture at the big end, I don't use them anymore
Sounds to me like you're doing something wrong
@@austindoud273 sustained rpm
What are you using then, China ones?
@@bernardwarr4187 gm powder metal
👍
I always enjoy your videos and your knowledge but as an engine machinist I disagree with this video. With the proper equipment accurately balancing to a tenth of a gram is fairy easy , no more work than a half a gram with this method. The small ends really don't need to be weighed with the isolation method, only as a double check mechanism. The small end weight is the total weight minus the big end weight. That comp cam fixture is 1910 technology ! That is how you balance a crank grinder wheel or a surface grinder wheel not a connecting rod in the 21st Century. It doesn't give you a weight(s) to fill out a balance card. Without a properly filled out balance card most machine shops won't balance your crankshaft . If you tell them you did it yourself they may not want the liability of your potential errors. You should have also explained how lightweight components affect total engine balance.
Andrew,
You raise some valid points here but there are background reasons that can be leveled at your, might I say, thoughtful comments.
The 1910 balance fixture is what we used to balance the rods for our 4 and inline sixes we used to do in the UK. For those we don't need to know what the pin and big end weights are.
That 'proper equipment' you speak of is costly for the 'do it at home' guy. Ask yourself what if this guy is trying to lighten a set of rods with overly large balance pads? Either balancer would be a very useful piece of gear would it not?
DV
@@marvingvx1 I agree for inline stuff you don't need to know the weight because bobweights aren't required.
In the realm of machine shop equipment rod/piston balancing equipment is relatively cheap. A good scale that is accurate and repeatable is a must and the most costly part. With some basic machining skills people can expand on your chain style design to increase rigidity/repeatability. Other basic designs can also be borrowed from.
Even if you did spend a few hundred dollars building one it would easily pay for itself after a few uses. Stock rods are somewhat of a thing of the past and they require the most work. New box rod sets are typically fairly close depending on your level of scrutiny.
I still maintain that not very many shops will want to be part of your balancing job if you tell them you used a string and harbor(horror) freight scale. As a shop owner lots of people have the very best of intentions and will try to do things to save money but I typically spend as much time inspecting /correcting their work as it would take me to do the same job in the first place.
Another point is that balancing is the very last thing that should be done in a engine build. Depending on the combination used an engine needs to be test assembled to check for rod clearance with the cam, block, oil pump system and girdle if one is used. Rod side clearance and bearing and pin clearances need to checked/adjusted to make sure all ALL machine work is done prior to balancing.
@@marvingvx1 The topic of metal removal also needs discussed. The proper methods of how and where to remove it. Also the effects of overheating the rod when large amounts of stock are removed causing deformation.
@@aldo6192 if you were an actual engine machinist you would ask the same questions and debunk DYI crap.
@@aldo6192 I'm not above anyone but I do know the difference between right and wrong in certain areas. People like you who follow blindly without asking questions never learn the difference between right and wrong and lack the ability to come to their own logical conclusions.
I own several of his books and David is expert in several areas but engine balancing isn't one of them. I invite you to find a machine shop owner who doesn't scratch his head at this video.
That's a great setup. I'd use a speedsquare 📐 on each side right behind the rod so I don't have to trust my eyes. Could look through the journal or pin bore and set them exactly.