Mr. Vizard, much respect for your knowledge and experience, Sir. As someone who has always had a fascination with internal combustion engines and high performance, I enjoy your videos.
Thank You David! I have been reading your books and articles for the last 35+years, and your incredibly detailed analysis , combining science with real world practicality made an impression on me early on. You are the real McCoy, and I'm so glad you're still with us !!
Thanks, David. Love your books, of which I have many and the content in your videos. Also, I'm proud to have a cam you designed for me in my 406 SBC in my 240Z.
@@pete540Z I'm building a 260z, it's a road car, that's what I like. I enjoy sport driving on mountain roads. You have to know what your building and stick to the plan.
@@pete540Z I can't afford hybrid z stuff,, lol 😆 I had to go my own way on everything. I think I did alright. I should have vids of the car on the road this summer. You should post some vide if your car.
Thanks alot David. Im kind of an engine geek and love learning not just the how,, but the why.. Still hoping to attend one of your three day classes. Ive read and own several of your books. And for a standard garage tree mechanic I've done pretty well using your recommendations and techniques. I ported a set of 180cc iron heads that you recomended in your cylinder head porting book and with your help, stayed studious, checked my sizes and ended up with excellent flow numbers. My next job is to match your 396 build. Looking for more than 550 out of it. I'd love to give more info and get a cam recommendation for it from you. Thanks again.
I have a constant thirst for knowledge so I have always enjoyed your books. I just found your videos yesterday! I would be very interested in your seminars. I think the last air fow seminar I attended was with Harold Bettes.
Thank you David for a very well documented and Professional Video. And while i only recently saw your videos i have seen your books many times but never bought one since i thought they were like the hot rod magazines that are full of paid information that is junk. I will buy every book you have this week and brush aside my 45 year hot rod performance magazine collection. I Paid For A brand new 10.25:1 comp 383 using a new GM block and 4340 Scat Rotating assembly. AFr 195 CNC heads a 750DP street HP carb and Edel... Air Gap RPM The engine was built in Phoenix Arizona by a very well known record holding company "familly owned" and i had it shipped to Australia.. I wouldnt go and had low cylinder pressure .. we pulled the front off it to see what cam was in it and noticed it has a scat 9000 series cast crank and rods that had 3/8 bolts and a hyd roller with one of them stupid spiders to hold the chinese lifters in.. we run a new mechanical cam and new solid flat tappet lifters and got the cylinder pressure up a lot higher and it ran 488hp and 465ft lbs tq and run to 6300 rpm. The 9000 series cast stuff is rated by scat at 500hp max.. i dont feel good about this entry level stuff. With a cam change we picked up cylinder pressure and 68Hp. Good cranks and rods are only a few hundred bucks more than entry level stuff and you can sleep at night.. From Watching these videos from David i will get an engine built in Australia from people who have used Davids mathematics to win, In thinking i was saving money buying from America 12,000 miles away i got Burned. It took me years to save the money for an engine. Thank you David Steve in Australia
I've used that 7/16 bolt Scat rod in a 454 small block that I built. I did some very minor clearance work but not much and it cleared using a 4.125 stroke and a .900 base circle roller cam. They are great.
Sir I appreciate your information. Many years ago when I was a kid I wanted to build a motor for my 68 Camaro , a 4 speed car . So I bought some heads of a retired fellow that had a g gas car that ran really well and built a motor around it . The bottom end was stock chev parts . I carried all of the parts to a fellow in Dallas that built dirt track motors and he built a bottom end that ran in a class that required the use of stock rods ect . He told me he side clearance the rod installed arp bolts and reconditioned them .Attention to the pin also as far a clearance . I spun the motor to 7800 often and never had a problem one . I really like a motor that will stay together and not give trouble . One last thing the fellow I bought the heads from told me he used the longest rod in his motor a 302 and I think it was 6.3 .
Hi David, love the videos, love the your knowledge. I know all the fundamentals are all same but how about doing a little something for us DOHC 4 valve per cylinder guys sometime? Thanks Jon
Thank You Sir for the video and all the other information. This one is very timely as well as I was debating which rods I needed. I will have to go review your books as well now. Thanks Again and have a Very Happy and Healthy New Year.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with all of us that don't have your experiences your helping us make good decisions with are builds I have a Truck 4 bolt 20/10 tin Nickle Gen 1 small block I'm wanting to build a fast car from stop sing to stop sing no track racing just accelerate to the speed limit as fast as I can so much fun top speed 70 miles an hr
Awesome video as always. Thank you. I need to know everything you know on bbc. I recently bought a ss454 that came out of a 90 ish truck. The cam was wiped out and he said it had a rod knock. It's got the oval port heads. I'm building on a budget
Germans can make the best roller bearings in the world.serving around their shafts in a hard vacuum, spinning at the unthinkable velocity of the translight turbine of the Tesla design.
I am assuming that that scat rod is 5140, instead of 4340. I've had problems with the factory powdered metal rods breaking right at the base of the beam, pulled it apart and the bearing was fine but the big end was still attached to the crank
What kind of RPM, compression, and were the GM PM rods under boost or NOS? Stock rod bolts? As for the latter, I've read that the stock bolts GM pressed into the powdered metal 5.7 rods specifically are very strong, superior to past rod bolts. Is that true in your experience?
David lets get a camera and a small lighting system that is worthy of the information you are putting out.... Fire up a patreon and im sure that can get done ina jiffy.....
I plan on building a Mercedes Stroker engine from 5.0 to 6.0 just like AMG dis back in the 90’s. I will have to get everything custom made except the crankshaft, would choosing Titanium con rods and lightweight piston benefit me in terms of how quickly the engine reaches its maximum rpm? Or would it be a waste of money?
So theoretical question on the nitrous engine that blew up wouldn't it be true that the engine wasn't actually making 800hp because it was running away from the load on the track and not developing the cylinder pressure that indicated the 800 when it blew up?
In my thumbnail you can see a Vizard reader and home builder towing a professionally built racing engine in a very fast car off the corner. Some day I am gonna go to at least one seminar.
First off, Love the videos David!! Currently rebuilding my 2008 ram 4.7...Very excited about this build as new for 2008 chrysler reworked the older 2001-2007 287ci engine and took Hp from 235- up to 310hp in 2008, 330 torque, anyway, Engine had 130k, and was time for a rebuild... question is This engine has the 6.12" powder forged "cracked" lightweight conrods that are press fit... All appear straight and not twisted but my machinist said he could recondition them after checking to see if theres any twist or cracks.. Would it be ok to reuse the powder forged conrods for the engines second life? Planning on purchasing my buddies Eaton M112, or building an itb(individual throttle body) velocity stack style build, ported heads,headers, performance tuner, and upgraded fuel pump/regulator, and injectors... any help would be Great!!, thanks for all your experience, and sharing!! Many blessings!!
Mr. Vizard, what happened to your COS-CAM service? I went on the Terry Walters website, and the link for your COS-CAM service is dead. It has been non-functional for the past 4 months that I've been checking it. I learned of the COS-CAM service from reading your BBC book copywrite date back in 2015.
I have a question, if you have time. My car runs a Supercharged MG XPEG engine, I'm sure you are aware that these engines have very long conrods as standard. The conrods I've fitted are custom Saenz with 6mm increase in centre distance with custom JE pistons with a corresponding reduction in compression height. Despite the reduction in compression height they are still a very deep/high piston from gudgeon to crown. The engine is supercharged 10:1 static compression on methanol. It's a period Marshall blower so I can't rev the engine above 7000rpm before the benefit of running it with an excess of methanol is overcome when the air heats up due to the poor adiabatic efficiency of this type of Rootes blower. I do not believe that I have run into detonation problems caused by piston dwell over TDC but have from other causes. I can fit a longer rod without having clearance issues at the bottom of the bore. My question is would you think I would get worthwhile gains by getting even longer rods and shorter pistons manufactured or would I risk the conrods flexing or run into other issues I haven't considered. There isn't much in the way of modern knowledge for these engines despite being used in many late 1930's and 1940's and 50's race cars. Thank you for so generously sharing your knowledge. I have been an avid reader of your books since rebuilding a mini in 1984.
Mr. Vizard, Have you ever tried to use pistons 'backwards' and if so do you think its worth some power. I have built some engines with many of your techniques and I use your engine building books religiously.
Hi David, if you want to improve your videos to teach/show us these trick etc could you get a Lapel Mic so your Audio is clear to listen to......thanks
Is there a caged roller bearings bearing pin bearing set inside a cheap Rod's .383 crank main bearings?big end caged cold oil fed through the journals in the crossed drilled and balanced forged crank? Pressure oiled,dry sump vaccume oil pan no windage drag filtered and cooled.i always subscribe. I am anticipating a future contact with Aaron.Aaron Merkami::::: ignition secrets.com.with you.first patent on working Plasma Ignition if you have the courage to examine it like you bravel y confronted the mystery of those fibers action in those magnificent air filters. They sent you a crate of.i thought they were once seen in an episode of startrek ,used in adecoratio not used for their true purpose.
Thank you, sir! I have found that when an expert with experience speaks...you listen and become a sponge.
We appreciate your many years of contribution, sir!
Thank you!
I have most of DV books and IOP and its worth ever dollar I paid Thanks for you work DV.
Mr. Vizard, much respect for your knowledge and experience, Sir. As someone who has always had a fascination with internal combustion engines and high performance, I enjoy your videos.
Thank You David! I have been reading your books and articles for the last 35+years,
and your incredibly detailed analysis , combining science with real world practicality made an
impression on me early on. You are the real McCoy, and I'm so glad you're still with us !!
Mr Visard your knowledge is unsurpassed! Thank you for helping all us gearheads CHEERS!
Thank you for saying your wealth of experience.
Thank you for all the awesome info.
Thanks, David. Love your books, of which I have many and the content in your videos. Also, I'm proud to have a cam you designed for me in my 406 SBC in my 240Z.
How do you keep that facing farward when you hit the Gass.
@@DANTHETUBEMAN :D. With sticky 255 tires, it works well if already moving. Not a drag car. Set up for road courses.
@@pete540Z I'm building a 260z, it's a road car, that's what I like. I enjoy sport driving on mountain roads. You have to know what your building and stick to the plan.
@@DANTHETUBEMAN Cool! Ever been to hybridz forums?
I am pparaska there.
@@pete540Z I can't afford hybrid z stuff,, lol 😆 I had to go my own way on everything. I think I did alright. I should have vids of the car on the road this summer. You should post some vide if your car.
Thank You King David:)
Good to see skat have made and excellent affordable rod that can put up with reasonable horsepower . Thank you DV.
Thanks alot David. Im kind of an engine geek and love learning not just the how,, but the why.. Still hoping to attend one of your three day classes. Ive read and own several of your books. And for a standard garage tree mechanic I've done pretty well using your recommendations and techniques. I ported a set of 180cc iron heads that you recomended in your cylinder head porting book and with your help, stayed studious, checked my sizes and ended up with excellent flow numbers. My next job is to match your 396 build. Looking for more than 550 out of it. I'd love to give more info and get a cam recommendation for it from you. Thanks again.
Polished beams and balanced wth ARP bolts those rods will out live any cast or nodular crank
Thank you David
I have a constant thirst for knowledge so I have always enjoyed your books. I just found your videos yesterday! I would be very interested in your seminars. I think the last air fow seminar I attended was with Harold Bettes.
Thank you David for a very well documented and Professional Video.
And while i only recently saw your videos i have seen your books many times but never bought one since i thought they were like the hot rod magazines that are full of paid information that is junk. I will buy every book you have this week and brush aside my 45 year hot rod performance magazine collection.
I Paid For A brand new 10.25:1 comp 383 using a new GM block and 4340 Scat Rotating assembly. AFr 195 CNC heads a 750DP street HP carb and Edel... Air Gap RPM
The engine was built in Phoenix Arizona by a very well known record holding company "familly owned" and i had it shipped to Australia.. I wouldnt go and had low cylinder pressure .. we pulled the front off it to see what cam was in it and noticed it has a scat 9000 series cast crank and rods that had 3/8 bolts and a hyd roller with one of them stupid spiders to hold the chinese lifters in.. we run a new mechanical cam and new solid flat tappet lifters and got the cylinder pressure up a lot higher and it ran 488hp and 465ft lbs tq and run to 6300 rpm. The 9000 series cast stuff is rated by scat at 500hp max.. i dont feel good about this entry level stuff. With a cam change we picked up cylinder pressure and 68Hp. Good cranks and rods are only a few hundred bucks more than entry level stuff and you can sleep at night.. From Watching these videos from David i will get an engine built in Australia from people who have used Davids mathematics to win, In thinking i was saving money buying from America 12,000 miles away i got Burned. It took me years to save the money for an engine. Thank you David Steve in Australia
As always a very good video with packed with great information ! I learn something new everytime ! 🍻
I like scat! I got a 350 crank, and couldn't believe how light it was!
I've used that 7/16 bolt Scat rod in a 454 small block that I built. I did some very minor clearance work but not much and it cleared using a 4.125 stroke and a .900 base circle roller cam. They are great.
VERY GOOD solid info from a hands on experience..thank you david. a great source
I was waiting for this one, can't wait for the exhaust series...
Sir I appreciate your information. Many years ago when I was a kid I wanted to build a motor for my 68 Camaro , a 4 speed car . So I bought some heads of a retired fellow that had a g gas car that ran really well and built a motor around it . The bottom end was stock chev parts . I carried all of the parts to a fellow in Dallas that built dirt track motors and he built a bottom end that ran in a class that required the use of stock rods ect . He told me he side clearance the rod installed arp bolts and reconditioned them .Attention to the pin also as far a clearance . I spun the motor to 7800 often and never had a problem one . I really like a motor that will stay together and not give trouble . One last thing the fellow I bought the heads from told me he used the longest rod in his motor a 302 and I think it was 6.3 .
One nitrous deto will bend those into an s shape. Ask me how I know. lol. Love the vids!
Thanks!
Hi David, love the videos, love the your knowledge. I know all the fundamentals are all same but how about doing a little something for us DOHC 4 valve per cylinder guys sometime? Thanks Jon
Thank you for your insitghts and video 🙂❤👍
Thank You Sir for the video and all the other information. This one is very timely as well as I was debating which rods I needed. I will have to go review your books as well now. Thanks Again and have a Very Happy and Healthy New Year.
Thank you for showing telling, and well see ya next time see ya bye bye.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with all of us that don't have your experiences your helping us make good decisions with are builds I have a Truck 4 bolt 20/10 tin Nickle Gen 1 small block I'm wanting to build a fast car from stop sing to stop sing no track racing just accelerate to the speed limit as fast as I can so much fun top speed 70 miles an hr
No such thing as a "nickel block".
Thank you David , Great video and information once again really appreciate you giving up your time many thanks.
Awesome video as always. Thank you. I need to know everything you know on bbc. I recently bought a ss454 that came out of a 90 ish truck. The cam was wiped out and he said it had a rod knock. It's got the oval port heads. I'm building on a budget
I STOPPED EVERYTHING I WAS DOING WHEN THIS VIDEO POSTED.
Me too!
Germans can make the best roller bearings in the world.serving around their shafts in a hard vacuum, spinning at the unthinkable velocity of the translight turbine of the Tesla design.
You are the best what do you think of Lunati's stuff voodo cams and cranks and such
Ultimate performance information. Thank you Sir.
I am assuming that that scat rod is 5140, instead of 4340. I've had problems with the factory powdered metal rods breaking right at the base of the beam, pulled it apart and the bearing was fine but the big end was still attached to the crank
What kind of RPM, compression, and were the GM PM rods under boost or NOS? Stock rod bolts? As for the latter, I've read that the stock bolts GM pressed into the powdered metal 5.7 rods specifically are very strong, superior to past rod bolts. Is that true in your experience?
@@dougsmaintenanceshop5868 it was.a
Completely stock engine, 5500rpm
David lets get a camera and a small lighting system that is worthy of the information you are putting out.... Fire up a patreon and im sure that can get done ina jiffy.....
Thanks for your sharing
I plan on building a Mercedes Stroker engine from 5.0 to 6.0 just like AMG dis back in the 90’s. I will have to get everything custom made except the crankshaft, would choosing Titanium con rods and lightweight piston benefit me in terms of how quickly the engine reaches its maximum rpm? Or would it be a waste of money?
So theoretical question on the nitrous engine that blew up wouldn't it be true that the engine wasn't actually making 800hp because it was running away from the load on the track and not developing the cylinder pressure that indicated the 800 when it blew up?
I bent a h beam rod in a high compression 421ci sbc
In my thumbnail you can see a Vizard reader and home builder towing a professionally built racing engine in a very fast car off the corner. Some day I am gonna go to at least one seminar.
Oh No! Thank YOU!!!!!!!!!
I know guys with small blocks making a hell of a lot more than 800hp on the streets!!! ROFLMFAO!!
First off, Love the videos David!! Currently rebuilding my 2008 ram 4.7...Very excited about this build as new for 2008 chrysler reworked the older 2001-2007 287ci engine and took Hp from 235- up to 310hp in 2008, 330 torque, anyway,
Engine had 130k, and was time for a rebuild... question is
This engine has the 6.12" powder forged "cracked" lightweight conrods that are press fit... All appear straight and not twisted but my machinist said he could recondition them after checking to see if theres any twist or cracks..
Would it be ok to reuse the powder forged conrods for the engines second life?
Planning on purchasing my buddies Eaton M112, or building an itb(individual throttle body) velocity stack style build, ported heads,headers, performance tuner, and upgraded fuel pump/regulator, and injectors... any help would be Great!!, thanks for all your experience, and sharing!!
Many blessings!!
Mr. Vizard, what happened to your COS-CAM service? I went on the Terry Walters website, and the link for your COS-CAM service is dead. It has been non-functional for the past 4 months that I've been checking it. I learned of the COS-CAM service from reading your BBC book copywrite date back in 2015.
I have a question, if you have time. My car runs a Supercharged MG XPEG engine, I'm sure you are aware that these engines have very long conrods as standard. The conrods I've fitted are custom Saenz with 6mm increase in centre distance with custom JE pistons with a corresponding reduction in compression height. Despite the reduction in compression height they are still a very deep/high piston from gudgeon to crown. The engine is supercharged 10:1 static compression on methanol. It's a period Marshall blower so I can't rev the engine above 7000rpm before the benefit of running it with an excess of methanol is overcome when the air heats up due to the poor adiabatic efficiency of this type of Rootes blower. I do not believe that I have run into detonation problems caused by piston dwell over TDC but have from other causes. I can fit a longer rod without having clearance issues at the bottom of the bore. My question is would you think I would get worthwhile gains by getting even longer rods and shorter pistons manufactured or would I risk the conrods flexing or run into other issues I haven't considered.
There isn't much in the way of modern knowledge for these engines despite being used in many late 1930's and 1940's and 50's race cars. Thank you for so generously sharing your knowledge. I have been an avid reader of your books since rebuilding a mini in 1984.
Mr. Vizard,
Have you ever tried to use pistons 'backwards' and if so do you think its worth some power. I have built some engines with many of your techniques and I use your engine building books religiously.
Im still confused on which intake and camshaft i should use for my big block chevy
What do you think about the H beam rod. I'm looking to build a motor that will turn 8000 plus RPM.Ronnie.
David, what do you think about I beam vs H beam rods?
Hi David, if you want to improve your videos to teach/show us these trick etc could you get
a Lapel Mic so your Audio is clear to listen to......thanks
Very informative as usual 👍
Would it be worth it to polish the cast rods or is it wasted effort?
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Are the Eagle I-beam connecting rods any good?
Is there a caged roller bearings bearing pin bearing set inside a cheap Rod's .383 crank main bearings?big end caged cold oil fed through the journals in the crossed drilled and balanced forged crank? Pressure oiled,dry sump vaccume oil pan no windage drag filtered and cooled.i always subscribe. I am anticipating a future contact with Aaron.Aaron Merkami::::: ignition secrets.com.with you.first patent on working Plasma Ignition if you have the courage to examine it like you bravel y confronted the mystery of those fibers action in those magnificent air filters. They sent you a crate of.i thought they were once seen in an episode of startrek ,used in adecoratio not used for their true purpose.