Do JOINED Track Saw Guides Cut As Straight As A Single 3m Guide ? Vid#66
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- Опубликовано: 30 июн 2024
- Hi guys,
Here's a quick vid on comparing 2 x 1.4m track saw guides or plunge saw tracks, to a single 3m guide.
Which cuts straighter? and are the joined tracks accurate enough?
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When joining tracks use a straight edge pressed up against each rails 'rail' that the saw rides on before tightening the grub screws. You can get it perfectly straight pretty easily. It's best to leave a slight gap between the tracks, maybe 0.5mm or 1mm, this allows you to shift the track back and forth to adjust it before tightening.
When I bought my makita setup I ordered a Betterley straight line connector too and use it all the time for joining tracks. Works amazingly well and since I use a pickup for work it means I have room to carry multiple short tracks with me at all times
using the TSO guide rail adaptors also helps with this. The makita adaptors suck
Agree. The 3m version is way to long to carry between jobs anyway, as well as cutting sheet goods on their short side. Nice, but impractical IMHO... so I use the 2x 1.4m and align with a straight edge like my long level as I tighten the connectors. Never go by the butt-to-butt joint between the two tracks, rather place a straight edge against the edges and I have no issues with a perfect cut.
Watching a "festool live" video, when joining their tracks it was recommended that a few mm gap be left between rails as they are not guaranteed to be parallel (at the join) and then use the track saw over the join with its cams tightened to align the tracks before tightening the grub screws.
I've always found this worked well with my tracks (non festool) and doesn't require me to carry a massive straight edge with me 🤣
Very interesting to see your take on the difference between track saws ..... and get your point on benefits of short track and including cheap plunge saw too
Great video, really informative. Im gonna look for a 3M track. Thanks !
That is a very good tip thank you!!!!
I always us a straight edge to line up my Festool rails and I get excellent straight cuts. I like the way Maffel and Bosch join their tracks seems quicker and easier.
The perfect video prior to buying my Makita saw guide today. Thank you kind Sir..........
You're welcome 👍
Hot glue a perfectly straight edged 8 inch rip of MDFto the two halves, while holding them perfectly straight.
Cut through the entire assembly at the miter saw, taking material from both aluminum pieces.
Miter angle won’t matter if you mirror cut.
Will align perfectly straight
Exactly what I was looking for. A few ideas for future videos, 1. What is best material to use for kitchen or wardrobe carcasses, best for tightness of hinges 2. Is a drawer only kitchen a good idea, cabinets only for fridge, larder and dishwasher
Great thank you! And thank you for the ideas. I do like the materials idea 👍
As Hunders said. If your ripping ply or mdf use the edge of one sheet as a reference to join the tracks and tighten the bolts. Don't rely on the squareness of the end of the track!
Exactly
The factory edge is never guaranteed to be stright, not something I would use as a reference
I think if your doing joinery that is good way to approach it, but presumably you would have a reference straight edge. If your doing site carpentry and want to rip off a few pieces of ply for a soffit for example then a factory edge will be a useful reference that is at hand when you need it. If you've got to be super precise all the time then I suppose you'd buy a rail that is long enough for the job. I'll check out your chanel. 👍
Great video, thanks !!
Thank you
TSO has track joining bars that automatically force the tracks into perfect alignment.
Festool also does
For the same price as the guide rail.
The TSO items are ridiculously overpriced for what they are. But they are good at marketing (via- giving RUclipsrs freebies for an "honest" review.
@carterscustomrods They probably are honest reviews as in, "This is brilliant" plus an inconsequential negative that reinforces the honesty. The product being reviewed is probably brilliant. But, on a cost benefit assessment, it might be more than good enough for a lot more money. A professional or retired dentist will buy the best product which will likely be most expensive. The normal DiYer, often retired on pension, will consider affordability, benefit, usage frequency, spouse's reaction (if they see it ot the listing on the credit card statement).
Tbf, RUclips reviews that I see often do consider different reasons for buying or not buying on top of the question about being the absolute best must have dream tool.
Separately, cycling has become something I struggle to relate with. Both the commuter and race worlds talk stuff that I, as a 68-year-old pensioner with many decades riding very fast in all conditions, can't understand. Assumptions about what's necessary are made by people whose experience has been shaped decades after I established my modus operandi.
Another annoyance is 'right on' aware journalism, eg The Guardian newspaper. The news, comment, and analysis sections are fine. Then flip the page or click the tab to 'Lifestyle' and I see adverts, articles, and values that never shared, never could afford, and tell me that I'm not part of their in-crowd
Their is value in showing us how to make those 2 smaller ones as straight as possible
I managed to stuff up joining 2 tracks when I first set up the saw and looks like I will have to replace the trim guard as it doesn’t run true. Also the saw is a bit of learning curve straight out of the box in order to get it running with zero wobble. Would be great if you could put a general ‘how to’ video together with any tips and tricks!
4:13 After joining my makita tracks a couple of times and seeing how terrible the ends were, I cut them square on my miter saw and life was good after that.
A few comments about good ways to join shorter pieces and how the long version is impractical in van.
Well, nothing to do with van. It's great in workshop. Good tracksaw plus range of accessories combines mitre saw, table saw, jointer tasks for much less cost and smaller workshop
Interesting to see if the new Festool track joiner would make a difference in straightness
I made a nice long thin box for my 3 meter track. Partly to protect it and partly because it was so expensive.
Amazing!! Mine came in a box already. But yes they are expensive!!!
Brilliant
I always just butt my long spirit level up against the back of the tracks when I join them to keep em straight, seems to work ok.
I use a profile cutter router bit against the factory-cut straight edge from plywood and that gives me as straight an edge as possible
The Bosch/ Mafell ones do. But they don’t have as many accessories as the Festool / Makita swings and roundabouts
Been thinking about this track for months. Just ordered one, my bank balance says thank you.😂 great info. 😊
Haha, they are expensive so so lovely to use! You won't regret it 👍
I hope your well 👍
You don’t rely on the squareness of the end of the tracks to ensure the joined rail is straight, this is not how they are designed! My joined Festool tracks are perfectly straight, they’re easy to store and are totally reliable if joined correctly which is actually easy to achieve. 😀👍
Driving with any long metal object in a vehicle is extremely unwise
Interesting video
Take care
Don't forget your ear protection...
Makita do a 1.9m version here. I use two of them together for big sheet goods and a single one i prefer to the 1.4m as it gives me a bit more clearance before and after the 1200mm width of a standard plywood sheet. Storing / transporting a 3m rail is a struggle for me.
I use a spare track or a Stabila level to join my rails rather than relying on the square ends of each track.
Yeah, around 1600 mm is the ideal guide rail length for cross cutting full sheets of roughly 4*8. I also got the 1900 mm rail.
Is the 118" guide rail worth buying vs joining 2 55" guide rails now that youve had it a year or so?
one million percent, ive never looked back, trust me
Actually the way to line up the two segment is to align the long edge together. NOT to butt the right angle together.
I don't have one yet. But you should use pointed set screw. It's possible the one supplied is cup point.
Another way to perfectly align the two segment and allow it to be separable is to drill and ream a locating pin on the fixing bar and track. But this is another trade already. And it's not that strong because it's only aluminum.
I kept thinking "I didn't know Hoover made a Dust Extractor" lol
One of my favorite examples of British English.
I see you have a corded version. I am agonising over whether to go for the cordless version. I like the portability of the 18v version (mainly in a workshop) but if I have it hooked up to a vacuum cleaner does it really matter?
Exactly, if you have a hoover hose then is it worth buying the cordless? Probably not 👍
Go cordless, no reason not to. One less cord to fight.
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop I have the cordless one and no cable is one less thing to watch for snags inside (disadvantage being you need the '1' version that has a wireless sender to automatically turn on vacuum, or you just turn it on first :)
Advantage being outside doing cuts, that can be any garden or field without extensions (sometimes there is no power) and the cuttings from that saw are so fine they just disappear. Agree with the other comments, if you dont align the tracks when you join them with an edge, they will be off. Depends on accuracy/speed/convenience you want.
And what should i use that test for? Tools used WILL make different scratches and your saw looks pretty old too..
Hello just kitted out my spray booth , put 3 led battens on the ceiling and painted the walls white, it’s really bright but it’s hard to see the new paint spraying onto the work 😩
Is there a better way of lighting it????
Cheers mate
You just need more natural light such as windows and skylights. Or get some more daylight led spotlights in the ceiling?
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop I think the ones I have are cold white are the daylight ones more golden ?
I just take a 2m level and butt it up against the rail - never had a problem. Also leave a gap between the two rails.
Hi
Where did you get the 700mm guide rail from
Thanks
I had an old 1.4m makita track so I cut that in have on the chopsaw and have 2 x 700mm tracks, one for site and one for the workshop 👍
With regards to the track, will angling the saw on a 45 recut the splinter guard?
No
Has anyone tried using longer joining bars? I would have thought that would help with alignment, but I'm not a tracksaw user (yet) so just curious.
There's a company called Betterley that make a tool called a straight line connector, they work great. When I have tracks joined I always attach it to the tracks again before lifting and moving it
@@a-carpenter9229 thanks but too pricy for me as a hobbyist, and that is without international tax and shipping!
Well, I'm just going to use a single half rail and saw, stop and move the rail and finish sawing. I used the Bora dual rail and is to much a pain to continually put them together and apart and as shown, their not 100% straight anyway when connected.
Though it's obvious the joined tracks aren't straight, what about the 3 metre track you're using as a straight edge? I'm curious to what tolerance it's straight.
I'm eying up the XGT track saw.
Xgt is crazy good!
@@riba2233 Funny, I’ve got a fair bit of XGT since that comment, so I can agree.
Lovely piece of kit. I’ve built wardrobes with my 2 1.5m rails joined and there definitely is some play. Might have to raid my piggy bank 😉
Haha yes I guess you just have to draw a line in at the centre of the track to try and straighten it before you cut 👍
Always wondered this so thanks for answering it, wouldn't you put them against a straight edge first before clamping the second bar down so the 2 tracks are in line
No probs, possibly a re cut on the ends of the rails may help. 👍
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop I watched a similar video before saying have a hair of a gap between 2 joined tracks. Unfortunately I don't have room for a 3m track was thinking of getting one then ripping .5m off the end as would fit a sheet but now just by precut panels of over 4'
Sam Rix, you are right. I usually put mine against a long spirit level, obviously with the thick end of the rail butting against the level and that seems to work. However, I always check that the saw will run smoothly over the joint before I cut anything. Having said that The London Craftsman is right, you wont ever beat one solid track for real accuracy. Good point to raise though London Craftsman and enjoying the channel.
How about you put the other grub screw in and like everybody else says use straight edge.
I bought a 3m track in the end, soo much better
Thats not a hoovah! THIS is a HOOVAH!😂😂
On... two pieces vs one piece design... It's not design flaw. It's called design limitation. :-)
Really 2mm gap when cutting with two pieces rail?
What shop vac is that please?
Hi its the vc2012L I think
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop thank you
Nooice!
Maybe I missed it (but I watched it twice) you never flipped the wood board over so the newly cut edge was what was measured against the long edge! I don’t question that the full length edge is straighter, but you measured against the wrong edge! At least that is the way it looks in the video! Also, I don’t think it’s valid to do what you did. All you did was compare two different straight edges against each other. So what? They might both be crooked. You need to measure against something that is REALLY straight. A laser, or maybe a wire pulled taught between two nails. At the end of the day, this proves nothing.