Ingersoll Rand uses (Gallons x 0.536 x PSIG / Seconds) In your case 60 x 0.536 x 160 = 5,145.60 now divide that by the 570 seconds to fill = 9.02 cfm at 160psi. To ballpark a 160 psi cfm to 100 psi cfm you can do (160 x (cfm - 1) /100) so in you case 160 x 8.02=1283, 1283 divided by 100 gives you 12.83 cfm at 100 psi.
This info came at the right time.... I look forward to trying this soon with two different compressors on the same tank to see which one I should be using
Fuck Yeahhhh. Just checked my “new” compressor I got off an old neighbor guy. If this equation is somewhat accurate my compressor is the BEAST I thought it was!! 80 gallon filled to 125psi in 2:30 seconds. Woah. That’s over 30 cfm... It’s a Speedaire 7.5hp with a big ass dual pump. 40amp circuit. RAD!!
Hold up... where the hell did they trick anyone? The pump is rated to constantly put out that much air at that regulated pressure. If you had a tool, or collection of tools that used a total of 12.5 cfm, and operated at a regulated 100psi, the compressor would supply those tools continuously. You get a result of 9.5 at 160psi and somehow that's a bad thing? What tools run at 160 psi? Most tools are under 100 do idk what the problem is here.
Marketing works. The cfm traveling own a hose in different diameters must all be different as well. I have some air tools that show a cfm rating and I think their way off as well.
+STEVE ROB most people don't realize that, the larger the hose the more CFM = more power. Sometimes at work we need to hook up 2 airlines to a 3/4 impact gun to achieve full power on stubborn bolts
using 1/4 inch high flow fittings on my air tools and lines made my tools wake the fuck up. (still using 3/8" hose) milton V or the cheapy aluminum husky brand work well.
Automotive style are big too. Like the Merlin brand at harbor freight. They're the same ID as the ones called high flow. And they hardly ever leak like the V style.
Yep. People always under estimates the pressure drop through pipes, bends, fittings. The bigger the compressor the bigger everything else need to be sized if you want to take full advantage of your unit
So can we covert that number back to 100 PSI and see if the 12.5 cf/m they advertise is even accurate. This may also tell you the effect of 10 years of wear on the compressor. No big deal just a thought. Could re-time and just shut the compressor off at 100 PSI. I'm going to check mine for sure. I'm bookmarking this vid. thanks Bud. KIT d
THE REAL QUESTION IS HOW MANY CFMS AT 90 IS IT ACTUALLY PUMPING SO THAT WE CAN COMPARE WITH THE 12.5 AT 90PSI TO SEE HOW MUCH HAS IT DECREASED WITH USAGE. cAN YOU TIME IT AT 90 PSI?
For a relatively new design compressor it runs pretty slow. My 70 year old pump runs at 12-13cfm and fills a 200 Liter tank at just 5mins at 125psi cut out. Maybe service your compressors valves/rings? This helped my old air compressor get a new swing at life. My broomwade compressor runs a 1400rpm 3hp old styled higgs motor and the pump is a big 'fu**-off heavy cast iron chunk, but even though it's very heavy it makes significantly less noise than the newer multistage compressors, can stand next to the compressor and talk normally with my bud without having to raise my voice.
You always could have a bicycle pump it would give you some exercise, may take a while to fill a 60 gal tank. The only time you need CFM if your sandblasting. For your use in the garage that compressor does all you need.
Set your regulator to 90 psi hook an 8 cfm orbital DA sander I bet you that 9.7cfm at 160psi can't keep up. I bet you it never shuts off. Witch means it's making less then 8cfm @90 psi. These ratings on the tank are SCFM that's how much air it pulls in while making rated psi
@@electromechanicalstuff2602 correct... its what it pulls in not what it pushes out.. big difference.... company's lie all the time and should be prosecuted for it... if it says scfm then they are covered, if its just says cfm then take them to court and you cannot lose.
Your compressor wont deliver 9.7 cfm at 160 psi. Using the ideal gas law and using the rated compressor output (100psi+13.9psi)/(160psi+13.9psi)x 12.5cfm should give you a constant output of 8.18cfm @ 160psi . You are getting the same amount of power regardless of the psi or cfm. At lower psi sure you are getting more cfm but at a lower pressure and a lower cfm at a higher psi. Regardless you are getting the full amount of work that compressor can deliver. An analogy to this would be in electricity Power(work)= Volts(psi)x Amps(cfm) given a fix amount of power you could increase the voltage(psi)and reduce the amps(cfm)and vice versa, the only real way to know cfm is using a flow meter at a constant pressure, what you have here is the average cfm and the time to fill up to 160 psi,hope this helps.
can you clarify more .. for instant i have a 22KW Screw compressor .. then 5^22 =110 /60 = 1.83 m3/min "FAD" .. am i doing a right calculation for 22 kw screw compressor ?
100 psi is an accurate mesure because most tools run on 90-100 psi so if you want to know if the pump can sustain the tool, it os a good way. Also it seems to be a kind of "standard" manufacturers use, mostly 90 psi.
Set your regulator to 90 psi hook an 8 cfm orbital DA sander I bet you that 9.7cfm at 160psi can't keep up. I bet you it never shuts off. Witch means it's making less then 8cfm @90 psi. These ratings on the tank are SCFM that's how much air it pulls in while making rated psi
That's true but also logical. The SCFM is CFM at standard conditions (generally 1bar atmospheric pressure, 25 degree and 0% RH). They also haven't allowed for pipe/hose/fittings/bends etc after the unit. They also have clean new air filter. New pistons etc once you take all of this in consideration then you realize damn I should have bought a bigger unit then. I always size my units a bit bigger than I need. My calculations generally come to 30% more then you need
An 8cfm "rated" da sander is only rated at 25% duty cycle. That sander will need 32cfm to run properly. And although this compressor puts out ~10cfm, the compressor itself will be rated at no more than 60% duty cycle. So really it is putting out 6cfm continuous. So yeah, trying to runa tool which consumes 32cfm off a compressor that can only put out 6cfm, not going to work well, or not for long.
Cool video. Good idea. Worth doing when u first get a unit to compare in the future to check on issues. Not criticizing in anyway but don't you think what you calculated here is more like the average CFM of this unit between atmospheric and 160 psi and not really CFM at 100 psi
To get the CFM at 100 psi we should be running the unit and adjusting the output air valve until it is and hold 100 psi in the tank. This should give the same input and output air. Balanced. And then measure air flow wether in or out. Might be wrong, I don't know much about air compressor.
its per minute not per 9 minutes..? or am i wrong? your math equation is missing a few steps in algebra i think?.. you would have to measure the continuse CFM demand of the air tool by having a fully charged tank. airline full. pull the air tool trigger full open then see if it meets the air air requirement. Pressure equals CFM. This type of test has too many options of air tool requirements to be accurate. if its a spray gun and spraying base clear then most experienced painters know how their spray gun sounds.
Can someone work this out for me. I have had this unit for 30 yrs and never had the rating on it. 2 minutes 11 seconds to fill the tank and there was 120psi in the tank. Size of tank 1.33 cuft 37.64 litters 4.972 us gallons Location Toronto, Ontario. Thanks.
Also the result for 160psi is not accurate because the pump pushes against 160psi for like 10 seconds before it shuts off. and when the pump is workimg below 100 psi ot probably pushes a lot more than what's advertised. it's a good baseline but it is not a true result.
I read that, but even tho, the compressor works from 0 to 100psi n the while time it's working below 100psi the pump will pushes more air because cfm drops as the pressure rises. To have a true accurate reading you would need to run the pump with the tank at 100psi and calculate the air flow comming out of the hose while maintaining that 100psi in the tank. You can often see 2 values on compressors, pump cfm @ 40psi and pump cfm @ 100 psi.
@@ProbeGT2 - that sounds more correct... if you could regulate the big compressor at 100cfm... and use the air hose to fill a 2nd tank to 100psi, and timed that... would THAT work with the same calculation (using volume of the 2nd tank, of course).
But of course the CFM would be lower at higher PSI, right? If I say I can run a 5 minute mile on flat ground at sea level, you can't fire me for taking 6 minutes to run a mile up Mt Logan!
you are not calculating it right.. it says the cfm at 100 psi on the tank , not at 160... now calculate it properly..... when you lower pressure you can raise the cfm.. sounds wrong but its true... and its what cfm goes out is what your realy after , not the scfm.. scfm is what the motor is capable of sucking in to get the number rated.. yes its a big con, like most things in life..
If it has 9.7 CFM at 160 PSI then i could be right what the BIG Label on the Tank says. 12.5 CFM at 100 PSI . At 40 Psi it has arround 15 to 17 CFM.
Yea. the CFM can be more at lower pressures. So if it's 9.7 at 160 then it should be at between 11 and 12.5 around 100.
what would or might the cfm be of an inflator that gives 4psi every 10 seconds??
@@fallback8314Not enough information lol. Psi is a measure of pressure has nothing to do with air flow.
Ingersoll Rand uses (Gallons x 0.536 x PSIG / Seconds) In your case 60 x 0.536 x 160 = 5,145.60 now divide that by the 570 seconds to fill = 9.02 cfm at 160psi. To ballpark a 160 psi cfm to 100 psi cfm you can do (160 x (cfm - 1) /100) so in you case 160 x 8.02=1283, 1283 divided by 100 gives you 12.83 cfm at 100 psi.
This info came at the right time.... I look forward to trying this soon with two different compressors on the same tank to see which one I should be using
Fuck Yeahhhh. Just checked my “new” compressor I got off an old neighbor guy. If this equation is somewhat accurate my compressor is the BEAST I thought it was!! 80 gallon filled to 125psi in 2:30 seconds. Woah. That’s over 30 cfm... It’s a Speedaire 7.5hp with a big ass dual pump. 40amp circuit. RAD!!
Do the test stopping at 100 psi. Im speculating that the higher the pressure in the tank, the longer it takes to fill the last amt of air.
Hold up... where the hell did they trick anyone? The pump is rated to constantly put out that much air at that regulated pressure. If you had a tool, or collection of tools that used a total of 12.5 cfm, and operated at a regulated 100psi, the compressor would supply those tools continuously. You get a result of 9.5 at 160psi and somehow that's a bad thing? What tools run at 160 psi? Most tools are under 100 do idk what the problem is here.
I know this is a dumb question., but are you measuring free air delivery or displacement volume here.
Marketing works. The cfm traveling own a hose in different diameters must all be different as well. I have some air tools that show a cfm rating and I think their way off as well.
+STEVE ROB most people don't realize that, the larger the hose the more CFM = more power. Sometimes at work we need to hook up 2 airlines to a 3/4 impact gun to achieve full power on stubborn bolts
Thats really interesting. Gonna have to try that if I get stuck in a bind.
Your right. Bigger is better to a point I assume. 1/2, 3/4, 1' are all good choices for more POWER. Har,har har. Bad "Tim the Toolman" imitation.
using 1/4 inch high flow fittings on my air tools and lines made my tools wake the fuck up. (still using 3/8" hose) milton V or the cheapy aluminum husky brand work well.
Automotive style are big too. Like the Merlin brand at harbor freight. They're the same ID as the ones called high flow. And they hardly ever leak like the V style.
Yep. People always under estimates the pressure drop through pipes, bends, fittings. The bigger the compressor the bigger everything else need to be sized if you want to take full advantage of your unit
The CFM's written on the tank are really the SCFMs, right?
Los CFM's escritos en el tanque, en realidad son los SCFMs ¿correcto?
Correct! AVE couldn't have said it better
Good thing to know. Things like bead blast cabinets can easily out run a compressor that's low cfm.
those are air hogs for sure
Looks identical to mine but mines a porter cable. Not sure what mines rated for though.
So can we covert that number back to 100 PSI and see if the 12.5 cf/m they advertise is even accurate. This may also tell you the effect of 10 years of wear on the compressor. No big deal just a thought. Could re-time and just shut the compressor off at 100 PSI. I'm going to check mine for sure. I'm bookmarking this vid. thanks Bud. KIT d
+Douglas Laramie it's done in the description
THE REAL QUESTION IS HOW MANY CFMS AT 90 IS IT ACTUALLY PUMPING SO THAT WE CAN COMPARE WITH THE 12.5 AT 90PSI TO SEE HOW MUCH HAS IT DECREASED WITH USAGE. cAN YOU TIME IT AT 90 PSI?
For a relatively new design compressor it runs pretty slow. My 70 year old pump runs at 12-13cfm and fills a 200 Liter tank at just 5mins at 125psi cut out. Maybe service your compressors valves/rings? This helped my old air compressor get a new swing at life. My broomwade compressor runs a 1400rpm 3hp old styled higgs motor and the pump is a big 'fu**-off heavy cast iron chunk, but even though it's very heavy it makes significantly less noise than the newer multistage compressors, can stand next to the compressor and talk normally with my bud without having to raise my voice.
You always could have a bicycle pump it would give you some exercise, may take a while to fill a 60 gal tank. The only time you need CFM if your sandblasting. For your use in the garage that compressor does all you need.
Set your regulator to 90 psi hook an 8 cfm orbital DA sander I bet you that 9.7cfm at 160psi can't keep up. I bet you it never shuts off. Witch means it's making less then 8cfm @90 psi. These ratings on the tank are SCFM that's how much air it pulls in while making rated psi
@@electromechanicalstuff2602 correct... its what it pulls in not what it pushes out.. big difference.... company's lie all the time and should be prosecuted for it... if it says scfm then they are covered, if its just says cfm then take them to court and you cannot lose.
Your compressor wont deliver 9.7 cfm at 160 psi. Using the ideal gas law and using the rated compressor output (100psi+13.9psi)/(160psi+13.9psi)x 12.5cfm should give you a constant output of 8.18cfm @ 160psi . You are getting the same amount of power regardless of the psi or cfm. At lower psi sure you are getting more cfm but at a lower pressure and a lower cfm at a higher psi. Regardless you are getting the full amount of work that compressor can deliver. An analogy to this would be in electricity Power(work)= Volts(psi)x Amps(cfm) given a fix amount of power you could increase the voltage(psi)and reduce the amps(cfm)and vice versa, the only real way to know cfm is using a flow meter at a constant pressure, what you have here is the average cfm and the time to fill up to 160 psi,hope this helps.
For screw air compressors you times the kw by 5 and for piston compressors you times it by 6 that’s how you find the cfm
can you clarify more .. for instant i have a 22KW Screw compressor .. then 5^22 =110 /60 = 1.83 m3/min "FAD" .. am i doing a right calculation for 22 kw screw compressor ?
100 psi is an accurate mesure because most tools run on 90-100 psi so if you want to know if the pump can sustain the tool, it os a good way. Also it seems to be a kind of "standard" manufacturers use, mostly 90 psi.
Set your regulator to 90 psi hook an 8 cfm orbital DA sander I bet you that 9.7cfm at 160psi can't keep up. I bet you it never shuts off. Witch means it's making less then 8cfm @90 psi. These ratings on the tank are SCFM that's how much air it pulls in while making rated psi
That's true but also logical. The SCFM is CFM at standard conditions (generally 1bar atmospheric pressure, 25 degree and 0% RH). They also haven't allowed for pipe/hose/fittings/bends etc after the unit. They also have clean new air filter. New pistons etc once you take all of this in consideration then you realize damn I should have bought a bigger unit then. I always size my units a bit bigger than I need. My calculations generally come to 30% more then you need
An 8cfm "rated" da sander is only rated at 25% duty cycle. That sander will need 32cfm to run properly. And although this compressor puts out ~10cfm, the compressor itself will be rated at no more than 60% duty cycle. So really it is putting out 6cfm continuous. So yeah, trying to runa tool which consumes 32cfm off a compressor that can only put out 6cfm, not going to work well, or not for long.
Cool video. Good idea. Worth doing when u first get a unit to compare in the future to check on issues. Not criticizing in anyway but don't you think what you calculated here is more like the average CFM of this unit between atmospheric and 160 psi and not really CFM at 100 psi
To get the CFM at 100 psi we should be running the unit and adjusting the output air valve until it is and hold 100 psi in the tank. This should give the same input and output air. Balanced. And then measure air flow wether in or out. Might be wrong, I don't know much about air compressor.
its per minute not per 9 minutes..? or am i wrong? your math equation is missing a few steps in algebra i think?.. you would have to measure the continuse CFM demand of the air tool by having a fully charged tank. airline full. pull the air tool trigger full open then see if it meets the air air requirement. Pressure equals CFM. This type of test has too many options of air tool requirements to be accurate. if its a spray gun and spraying base clear then most experienced painters know how their spray gun sounds.
Can someone work this out for me. I have had this unit for 30 yrs and never had the rating on it.
2 minutes 11 seconds to fill the tank and there was 120psi in the tank.
Size of tank
1.33 cuft
37.64 litters
4.972 us gallons
Location
Toronto, Ontario.
Thanks.
5.44 cfm
@@saranmurugan7615 Thank you !!
Share proper working / farmula
Also the result for 160psi is not accurate because the pump pushes against 160psi for like 10 seconds before it shuts off.
and when the pump is workimg below 100 psi ot probably pushes a lot more than what's advertised. it's a good baseline but it is not a true result.
+ProbeGT2 actually it isn't, the result of the 100 psi is written in the description
I read that, but even tho, the compressor works from 0 to 100psi n the while time it's working below 100psi the pump will pushes more air because cfm drops as the pressure rises. To have a true accurate reading you would need to run the pump with the tank at 100psi and calculate the air flow comming out of the hose while maintaining that 100psi in the tank.
You can often see 2 values on compressors, pump cfm @ 40psi and pump cfm @ 100 psi.
* and the whole time,
slrry writing from my phone.
+ProbeGT2 that's not accurate either because flow is going to be different if you have a 3/8 hose or a 1" hose
@@ProbeGT2 - that sounds more correct... if you could regulate the big compressor at 100cfm... and use the air hose to fill a 2nd tank to 100psi, and timed that... would THAT work with the same calculation (using volume of the 2nd tank, of course).
But of course the CFM would be lower at higher PSI, right? If I say I can run a 5 minute mile on flat ground at sea level, you can't fire me for taking 6 minutes to run a mile up Mt Logan!
That would depend on how your boss is 😂😂😂😂
I thought you'd pop out a machine that would measure the CFM. 😌 🤳
That math gave me a headache, lol... 😂
I need a f****** beer after all that s*** by the way I found my 67 Firebird brakes
Super useful thank you. Just found that my compressor is delivering only about half the rated FAD.
Nice !
you are not calculating it right.. it says the cfm at 100 psi on the tank , not at 160... now calculate it properly..... when you lower pressure you can raise the cfm.. sounds wrong but its true... and its what cfm goes out is what your realy after , not the scfm.. scfm is what the motor is capable of sucking in to get the number rated.. yes its a big con, like most things in life..
😳 there has to be an easier way than adding subtracting & division good grief 🤯not my strong suit 🤣
Not marketing it’s fraudulent
THANK YOU !!!
now i know how to calculate it.
👍