Love it! Former Prussian G 8.1 if I remember correctly, later DRG 55. I think that the Swedish State Railway bought 20 of these back in day. I might have had one of these as well, I remember that my dad had a fair few Piko steam locomotives....
It is definitely a Piko locomotive, and a complete good runner could fetch $50 or about 40 pounds. I doubt it was ever a good runner even new and definitely not expensive as you hinted. Great review and video, Jersey Bill
I have that model. It is a Piko and it came from one of their train sets that included a couple freight cars. The key to getting the best performance out of it is taking apart the motor and cleaning the commutator . You also want a good synthetic plastic friendly grease for those gears. Also you might want to check your eccentric cranks as I believe one of yours is off . I later swapped the motor for a modern coreless, which vastly improved its running characteristics.
What we have is all wheel drive with gears and external connecting rods. It may be possible they are working against each other with the clearances in the gears and wheel connecting rods joints now worn with use? This would show when reversing as the backlash in the gears has to be taken up down the gear train then up the gear train. Solution is to slot the conrod pivot holes.
Love it! Former Prussian G 8.1 if I remember correctly, later DRG 55.
I think that the Swedish State Railway bought 20 of these back in day.
I might have had one of these as well, I remember that my dad had a fair few Piko steam locomotives....
Lovely old loco, it'll be okay it's fun, thanks for sharing
It is definitely a Piko locomotive, and a complete good runner could fetch $50 or about 40 pounds. I doubt it was ever a good runner even new and definitely not expensive as you hinted. Great review and video, Jersey Bill
You are always so good at finding the problem with a model and repairing it. Excellent video, really enjoy watching your assessments and then repairs.
Thank you very much!
I've got one of these locomotives, it's one of my best and most reliable runners. I cleaned the wheels and lubricated the gears with grease.
I have that model. It is a Piko and it came from one of their train sets that included a couple freight cars. The key to getting the best performance out of it is taking apart the motor and cleaning the commutator . You also want a good synthetic plastic friendly grease for those gears. Also you might want to check your eccentric cranks as I believe one of yours is off .
I later swapped the motor for a modern coreless, which vastly improved its running characteristics.
It is a loco very much of its place in time (1960s/70s East Germany) Thankfully things have improved a lot since then
Good fix.
What we have is all wheel drive with gears and external connecting rods. It may be possible they are working against each other with the clearances in the gears and wheel connecting rods joints now worn with use? This would show when reversing as the backlash in the gears has to be taken up down the gear train then up the gear train. Solution is to slot the conrod pivot holes.
At the risk of insulting you, would the mechanism benefit from a little grease on the cogs as well as lubrication oil?