I am late posting this. I built one of these for my Mom and got it set up and filled with dirt on Mothers Day. She is past the age for a large garden but always said she missed it. I saw your video a few weeks before last Mothers Day and THANK YOU! She currently has a couple tomatoes, cucumbers, and zucchini growing.
Your documentation of failure makes my projects seem normal. You deal with issues slightly better than I do. Thanks for honestly sharing all aspects of your projects. I will watch many more videos. This video is my second watch.
Lived my whole 47 years of life and did not know the hole on a caulking gun was for cutting the tips my mind blown for a guy that can’t find a pocket knife to save his life you’ve opened up a whole New World
If you mix peat moss in the outer cement coating it will grow a little moss and look like it has been there forever. on the inside if you paint on a thin coating of roof coating plastic you will eliminate breakdown and most of all stop the boards from wicking water from the roots of plants near the sides.
Hey I wanted to add one for you. My son came up with this one. We had an old fridge we needed to get rid of. So he gutted it. Flipped it on its back. Drilled holes in to the now bottom of the box for drainage. Lots and lots of holes. Now it will be my new raised bed. And it looks good too. White enamel
LMAO, I was gonna say that I bet it would make a great worm bed. And I saw the other comment. But with the insulation in the walls, it IS the ideal worm bed for winter time.
When I lived in Michigan, I buried an old freezer in the ground and built a storage shed over it. We used it to store potatoes during the winter. The shed made it convenient to access during the winter and provided protection for potato cellar.
My husband used the cheapest backer board from Home Depot, cut it in half making 5'x 15" pieces, held together with 2 x 4's in the corners and mid planter "seam" and pounded rebar scraps into the clay soil we have here in Atlanta spaced around the outside, put a 2x4 top rail all around and it is still holding up, no cracks, no deteriorating, or bulging for 15 years now. the 2x4's have rotted on the inside, but the rebar still holds the backerboard in place. This was the cheapest way to get 10ft x 2.5ft x 15" deep raised planters. Can easily work the soil and plants from either side. Will do it again.
instead of the ALLCRETE, use QUICKWALL Surface bonding Cement, which contains fiberglass. The product is intended to surface bond dry stack (no mortar joint) masonry walls. You will have a lot more tension capacity on the surface fiber versus bending. It could make the board less likely to crack and crumble.
@@jamesolelo4406 fiberglass will leach too ? ... acrylic as well ? Thought of those as well ...don't want heavy so I can lift if want to clean beds or renovate lasagna style them later ...😜👍
Also saw a vid some kind acrylic is good to block 5g side effects of their frequencies ..to someway protect from the switch on happening ...eventually building the garden house is my aim ...half buried below for the warmth geothermal effect advantage ...little by little ...transform the soils first dig it build the walls and ceiling ...side bottom and top perforated vents for natural ventilation ...hope self sustainable 😜👍still in thought only lasagnas going on and collected branches for future trellis builds going ...not ready enough yet for winter😔🤔😜
I had to build a vent well for my raised foundation house. I made it with reinforced concrete so one could stack 4 cars on top no problem. I wanted a cover to keep the rain out, so I used cement board on it. While you cannot step on it, it is about 17 years old and doing well.
Paint the torque washers red, purple, white.. whatever color. Then paint the head of the carriage bolt yellow. It will make the combo look like flower heads.
Awesome project!!! Handy man tip 101: when pilot drilling holes, start in reverse for a couple twists then switch to forward to stay exactly on yoyr original marking.
Yoo that's one creative ass idea!! I made raised beds just using chicken wire n cardboard once(def worked) but this would b awesome to try. Ya get 10/10 for originality
Two additions: I would lay ~5" BB strips flat on the ground forming skirt around the bed. The frame would go on top of the new skirt. That way you have a 4" border that grass cannot grow on and the mower can drive over, no weed-wacking. I would also add hardware cloth under the bed. Keeps the voles from moving in. Using BB is a great idea.
This is such a cool idea, but nothing beats a couple pieces of wood screwed together in under 15 minutes. I pray for you in your efforts to make more of these XD
We used hardiebacker 4x8 sheets. Each sheet would make 4 pieces that were 2x4 and they made a square 4 feet on a side. We are just west of Philadelphia and they held up for 6 years with no issues (externally fixed and painted pine 2x3s held the backer board in place.) the pine lumber is still ok but the backer board really began to deteriorate in the last 18 months. Maybe because the units were filled to nearly the full 24 inches of height and that created a lot of pressure, but, it saved us a lot of bending over. Replacing the backer board is going to be a big project, but, we paid $23 for a 4x8 sheet and it was way less than the soil, mulch, peat etc that went into the bed. As an aside, I might think about lining the thing with sone kind of insulation, not sure what/how. We put a cover over the top and heated using 2 100 watt bulbs mounted in #10 cans during the night and had chard and kale through 4 winters. There is a good RUclips video on casting lightweight concrete panels. Anyway, it worked well for us and even though in disrepair they are still functional after 8years.
It’s been a long time since I’ve seen such an original video about gardening that I may actually use. I’m very interested to know how well it has worked over a few years. Is it as durable as you hoped? What do you believe that you gained by adding a thin coat of cement? Very interested in seeing a follow up video. Good on ya mate!
I like your ideas. You might use galvanized chicken fencing between the two boards as a reinforcement to prevent cracking. Also, fiberglass matting used at the corners would spread the stresses over a larger area. Right-angle steel stakes at the corners would also help with that stress.
Great idea! If I may suggest an alternate support system, 6 inch pvc burred about a foot down then back-filled with rocks and Portland cement allows you to drill anything to them, just set up your concrete after you drill your screws in, I've found that method allows for much taller raised beds. I'm in a wheelchair and I've found ideal height for elderly and chair bound people is around 22" to 36", and some much higher for a pull under bed design. A good video describing the pvc support method can been seen at my channel under the video "How to make raised garden beds with benches.". In addition, if you add a two inch piece of copper tape around the lip edge of the top of the bed it will prevent snails and slugs from wreaking havoc on your crops.
@@bobbiduval7961 Only slugs and snails. The copper reacts with the slime that snails and slugs secrete, causing a disruption in their nervous system similar to an electric shock.
We tried concrete blocks a summer, but they hold heat overnight, which attracted copperheads. I later learned about Fly ash leaching into the soil as well. Went back to wood.
@@venderstrat most Americans are terrified of any snakes despite there being remarkably few in most areas… some places have tons tho… still more likely to die from tripping while running from a snake than from an actual snake bite
With the amount of time and labor, plus cost or the boards, it would be cheaper to just go and purchase 8x8x16" masonry blocks and build it that way. Build it with the holes up and you can plant in side of those as well.
@@williamfp3 I put cardboard under all of my raised beds and have no grass, or weed issues. The soil/compost you use, maybe the problem too. My daughter used a local compost and her beds are full of grass and weeds. Good luck.
@@williamfp3 Cover the holes with 8 x 16 x 2 inch pavers--adds a nice cap, although it also adds to the cost. If you build the beds 2 courses high, they are a good sitting height for working in the bed.
Just to tag on here. If by chance you are having a deck built using composite wood product, if there reasonable sized cut offs or some extra full size lengths left over, this would also be a excellent material. I made some cold frames from some of this and they just will not rot.
Suggestion for increase strength : Make each inner board length shorter in length by two thickness of a single board and center them on the outer boards so that the extremities will overlap in a "stair" fashion on all four corners. This will dramatically increase the strength of these corners with the addition of bonding or cement and will stop leakage from the corners.
@@oldporkchops I think since you are setting it vertical it would just be a half lap, no reason to mitre tha corners unless laying flat together. I don't think with the lack of edge strength in this material that it would add a significant amount of strength. Probably be better of to just add a big dollap of epoxy to the brackets before you screw them down. Conversely The quickwall type product added into inside corners with some fibre glass sheet would obviate the problem altogether but would cost more and be more work.
Great idea. I have to make one myself. Instead of using cement to coat the box, I would use Thinset for tilling. It sticks better and some brands are extremely strong. My pick would be the Schluter brand.
Last spring I built a garden bed with PT 2 x 8's on the outside sitting on a mow strip of concrete blocks level with the grass, and 12" tall concrete board on the inside going deeper to keep grass out. Mixed crack resistant concrete to re-enforce the corners. Took a while to build because I had odd angles on the corners, but it's holding up great. Thanks for the quality video, I like your style.
@@carsonwhitehead1463 That's not true. The newer pressure treated wood is preserved with copper, which does not harm plants. I've used it for several years without any problems at all. The older pt wood from the 90's had arsenic in it, and in the 70's had pentachlorophenol, but nobody uses that anymore. The bed I mentioned here I lined with concrete board anyway, so the pt wood was not in contact with the soil in the bed.
@@HartzHomestead I'm glad to hear that. Apparently Scott's Lowe's and Home Depot have not gotten the message yet. Thanks for the update. I will look it up so I'll be more updated. That's why I was looking at the use of the Hardie board because wood rots so easily where we live and every Source around me was telling me that pressure treated can't be used. The pressure-treated that you are using, is it yellow wood or green pressure-treated?
@@carsonwhitehead1463 Look on the label. The older CCA contained arsenic and was discontinued for residential use in 2003, though plants will not take up arsenic unless the soils are deficient in phosphorus. The American Wood Protection Association and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency say lumber treated with ACQ is safe for garden use. CA and MCQ are also copper based, and safe. Though the toxicity is very low, it's still not allowed if you're selling produce as "organic". If you Google "is pressure treated lumber safe for vegetable gardens?" you'll find a multitude of articles on the subject. The same copper chemicals are commonly used in swimming pools and as a fungicide on food crops. If you're still concerned, you can dry pt lumber thoroughly first, then seal it with an oil based wood sealer, or line it with heavy plastic, which may also help the wood last even longer.
Thanks for the great idea. I didn't think to use 2 layers glued together. I had a bunch of old product in the garage, some of it 20 yo. I cut the 1/2" backer and used outdoor primer on it. I cut out the sod, so the bottom lip is supported by dirt, then temporarily held the boards with caulk, followed by primed 2x4s around the lip to hold that together. I'll give your project a try when this one fails. My only expense was for screws and a yard of garden soil... and cleared some space in the garage.
Hey! When I renovated my bathroom, it was suggested that cement board in the tub-surround was better than the water damaged drywall I was replacing. 35 years later, it was the right call. Thanks for pointing out what was right in front of me for so very long. (And for those fly-ash detractors, when building just line the inside with a (I'd use plastic garden dirt bag) barrier.) And thanks for the intro to torque washers and concrete grinding stones. I need both!😂
This came out GOOD! I didnt know you were going to use the cement to cover it. I actually LOVE the screws on the outside also. GREAT JOB! Your wife is a lucky woman
Here's a nice tip. Use sanded tile grout for the plaster. It trowels on very nicely, sponge finishes easily and there are color choices. I do it on concrete block walls and planters.
This guys channel like so many others try to give us advice, but all they are really doing is showing us crap they are paid to talk about. Look these concrete panels go under ceramic tile flooring and they cost ya about $15 for a 5foot section, so it's actually cheaper to use wood. Heck I would be more impressed if he made it from Bamboo like I did at my home, found the bamboo patch locally harvested it made a HUGE raised bed for under $20. Now that would be a video worth watching not sponsored by anyone. Don't fall for crap advice like this guys channel, he is only doing this for the monetization he could not care less your results or frustration.
@@nulledrust9809 I agree with a little of the monetization aspect you are referring to. Because, I think he is making content to get views. But, it did appear this was the direction he wanted to go in and just made content of it. He had a video sponsor, but not for the product he is using. But, I was left thinking the entire time, where is the money and time savings here? Concrete board, cement , and the hardware to get it together.... is definitely not cost effective. The setup is messy and time consuming. But, the longevity is probably far superior to anything made out of wood. So that is a tradeoff one would have to consider. In the end... I was entertained a little and learned something I hadn't thought of.... So, I can't say my time was wasted.
You may have notice the outer skin is like a fiberglass mesh. That mesh is the only thing preventing the fragile cement inner layer from falling apart into a million small pieces. So that is a huge hint how the cement board can be used successfully for raised bed garden frames. Ever heard of thin shell cement project like papercrete? Just a hint.
This an excellent approach - thank you for talking the time to work through the build. I’m shocked at the cost of constructing a raised bed using corrugated metal and treated wood! I’ve moved towards re-using commercial metal roll up (garage) door panels
Great idea. Another option would be to assemble the box in the field using rebar (or something of that ilk) pounded into the ground, attach the cement board to the vertical rebar with wire or zip ties and dispense with the corner angle braces. You could also use those green garden/fence stakes as the uprights pounded into the ground. If you leave them tall, then they become a structure for tenting when cold/frost comes along. I love this cement board idea - Hardi board - comes in 4' x 8' sheets which gives it a longer bed. Or one could use the Hardi board length as the "tie-together" piece of an 8' bed with 2 thicker duraboards on the inside of the bed (and using the stake idea for structure). This would eliminate the need to coat the duraboard with cement as the Hardiboard, on the outside of the bed, would provide the finished look. Just throwing out some ideas. But using cement board is a great idea - a much nicer look than the corrugated metal concept. Thanks for posting!
I had the same idea as you before seeing Haxman, just wasn't building raised beds at the time. I was thinking the same as you regarding rebar, but had not considered the garden stakes. Great idea ! I don't need my beds very tall, so another option is using 1"x8" siding boards instead of cutting down 4'x8' sheets. A neighbor ended up advertising some 4'x9' hardie panels for super cheap, so I'm cutting those down this week. Got Three 4'x9' sheet's for $60, and that's enough to do Four 4'x12' beds at 8" height.
My dad and I used cement boards to make a couple garden beds a few years back in our old house. We only cut to size and stuck in dirt and backfilled with potting mix, no glues or nails. It worked pretty well. It was a sloped area so we only put the boards to make a u-shape to level it.
Nifty idea. I agree on the flimsiness aspect. I was just working with Hardie Plank for the first time and was surprised at how easily it shattered when I dropped a piece from only about 3 feet. If the gardener is careful while spading the soil it should be ok. Laminating (or using thicker pieces) should help a lot with the flimsiness/brittleness And it should definitely outlast wood.
Concrete type sidings are not made for ground contact. Please see the manufacturers specifications .It will break and crumble with any amount of moisture contact
Use modified thinset (tile setting) mortar to bond your half-sheets together. Comes dry in a bag like the Sakrete - mix w water for 5 mins. Use a deep notched trowel and totally cover one side then squish together Same thing you’d use to bond them to a subfloor, and essentially what the board itself is made out of. You’ll get a homogeneous assembly that will never come apart. Cement board is not nail base and will not hold any kind of fastener threads so your bolts are the way to go. You could also screw through the material into wood corners - use wide head exterior screws.
Made mine from hemlock from my local sawmill. Charred them inside and out with a brush torch. But I also made mine 14 feet long for root veggies for winter eating. If I was going smaller, I'd try this.
@@rubybenge9301 charring the wood makes it water proof, big proof, and prevent decay. It’s an ancient Japanese form of preserving wood called ShoSugiBan
My dad and I did this about 8 years ago. The beds lasted two years before falling apart. We even had the sides reinforced with all-thread and 4in square washers.
You’ve got a great attitude and presentation. As a tile contractor I’m often throwing these scraps away because there too small for the next job. No longer will I do that especially after recently building 2 raised beds out of 2x12 lumber($$$ ouch). Thanks pal.
I like the idea ! I built forms and made my own lite weight panels ( a lot of work ) . I might suggest using high strength motor mix to encase the cement boards . It makes them pretty much water proof which would eliminate freeze damage . For support externally I would use treated 2 X 2s , but never use treated internally if growing veggies .
If you’re going to bond two halves of a panel together, don’t both scoring both sides, leave them connected. I expect the factory edges to be stronger, so make them be the top edge. Use U shaped fence posts on the outside of the corners to hold the corners on. The dirt on the inside will keep the corners pushed out.
I’ve built several raised beds always using redwood. Last spring I could not get the wide thick redwood boards. I ended up using cement board. Only, not as good a plan as yours. This year we’re expanding so I’m going with your plan!! Thanks so much. 🤗😋👍
I love watching different gardening ideas. My friend made beautiful huge planters with cloth mixed with cement years ago. Pretty easy. No building, hammers or nails ither!
I thought of doing this many years ago until I discovered these boards contained fly ash which is extremely harmful when it leeches out into the soil you’re growing food in. Also most U.S cinder blocks contain fly ash. I ultimately chose cedar which is more expensive,however a much safer choice. Great video though, good work.
When I built my raised garden bed, my concern was the material leeching chemicals to the soil. That means no treated lumber. I used regular untreated fir from the big box store and 3 years later, they are still in very good condition. Maybe they won't last as long as treated lumber, but it's better than eating food planted with tainted soil.
The big box stores concrete mixes and concrete in many areas of the country contain fly ash. I believe that it is bound to the cement and doesn't leach to any degree.
@@james1795 I grew up with the real thing in the 90's and early 00's they're still around. Only recently started seeing concrete blocks take over. Cinder blocks fuck up your hands though, so I can see why the switch is happening.
@@robstephens Yes, it leeches over time. Several indipendent group studied already demonstrated it, that's why it's hard to obtain a "safe for food cointament/production" label. At least here in Europe, don't know much about the States but concrete is pretty much the same everywhere, especially the cheap one.
My suggestion: Use the cement board closer to how it is used for tile. Drive Cedar or pressure treated 2x4s into the ground and then attach cement board inside the lumber with screws, and then fill with dirt. The screws will eventually fail, but the soil will hold things in place still. Even if the boxes eventually fall apart, you can just rebuild them by piling up the dirt toward the center and rebuilding. The cement board will still be holding together, and you might be able to reuse some of the 2x4 posts.
Two minutes in and I've already learned something new: the dang caulking gun has a thing to cut open the tube with. I've been sawing tubes open with my pocketknife like a chump. Magnificent.
Hi Kim! A kinda cool look is to buy bulk gunny sack material to wrap around the outside of the container. Lasts a long time in the sun, helps retain moisture.
oh, this is cool. couple ideas: 1. offset the plies to get garden bed side lengths longer than 5 feet 2. put a mesh between the plies and use concrete as the "glue" instead of construction adhesive 3. use angle iron or angle aluminum for the corner joints which can double as stakes for the corners
I like these ideas. The corners will definately outlast the hardie backer. Use an old bed frame pieces for the corners. And gou can easily make 3ft high by 8 ft long x 4ft wide raised garden bed that will last a good 5-6 years.
I like how you add in the humor. Your humor reminds me of myself but you are so much funnier. Crazy effects also, thank you so very much for the info and the laughs.
Love the content, funny and I love how you aren't afraid to out yourself out there. That said you showed me that this ain't a project I'd want to do. I used corrugated galvanized with wood frame for our raised beds -- so far so good. Thanks @Haxman!!
Yes! We used this in our beds this year. Built 2 big beds and framed them with 2 X 4s. They're amazing! I was doubtful at first but they did great. And they seep lime into the soil so they're good for growing tomatoes.
That's about the best thing I've ever seen for a raised bed. What a great idea. Thank you! 😊 Only problem is that I'd have to build it in place since I don't have a tractor.
Over a decade of using green lumber and still holding strong. Great patina with no signs of rot or serious warping. These gardens are in the rainy PNW too.
I have beautiful faux finished floors made from hardie backer board. My recent floor is 4 x 4 squares on the diagonal, finished with layers of natural and organic stains and sealed. Looks like a recycled museum floor from Italy. Love your unexpected use!!!
I like the looks of that bolt and carriage bolt. I think if you spray paint the outside of the box it would look really nice and that would hide the head of the bolt as well as that "thing" you pound into the side first. What's the concrete for??? To protect the cement board right? Fantastic JOB for sure and I am so jealous going to have to show hubby this video for SUIRE!!!! Your wife is one lucky lady to have such a talented hubby... true story NICE JOB!!! God's blessings to you all. Ugh now I have garden box envy LOLOL!!!
I have used concrete board as my forms to do some simple small pours, and then stucco the outside to make it look nice. You could also add an offset to each corner and glue and then mortar them together in place of the screws and honestly I think it would hold better than the corner brackets.
@@philindeblanc The offset he is referring to is to make the inside boards length shorter than the outside boards length on each end by half the total thickness the two boards make together, so all 4 segments of the raised bed seat together with 3 points of contact at each corner that can themselves be bonded making a stronger more permanent connection between all the segments. Keep in mind those offsets will result in either an inch overall extra garden bed length, or an inch overall extra garden bed width depending on which parallel 2 segments have the exposed outside board ends.
Check your soil pH over time. I used cinder blocks to make some raised beds and they made my soil alkaline. I had to track down some soil sulfur to acidify the soil
This is genius! I used that to replace the bottom row of siding that mice chewed through to get in my garage. Works great, holds paint. I love this idea!
Screw those lumber dealers! Ive been hating lumber dealers my whole life! they ripped me and my dad off for 35 years! Love this video! And love that you aint taking crap from those lumber dealers!! new sub!
One thing I would definitely research before using this method for growing anything you plan to eat would be chemicals getting into your soil. Even when people use wood for vegetables they use cedar and not treated wood. But for flowers and edging this would be great, could tint the cement and match it to your siding.
I just made my daughter a planter for her back porch using vinyl floor planks. I just made wood frame and nail those floor planks to it. I put 6 mil thickness drop cloth plastic sheet inside the planter with 2 holes on the bottom for drainage and I put flashing tape around the top.
You’re so clever! Love the look. My concern though is planting fruits & veggies in them. Do you know if any chemicals will leach into the soil that can end up in the plants?
@@HAXMAN Now I’ve got us both digging! Fly ash (aka coal ash) is laden with heavy metals and is used as a replacement for Portland Cement in some products. Fly ash is a waste by-product from coal plants. If it’s not listed on the packaging, I don’t think one can know whether it’s used or not. And I didn’t look far enough to learn if the EPA allows it to be also called Portland Cement or go unidentified. I did read a cement guy saying fly ash weighs considerably less and is much lighter in color. Geez, we have to be super sleuths to safely navigate this chemical world we live in! I suppose to be on the safe side, one could use a plastic liner… if you can find large sheets of food grade BPA-free plastic! 🤪😵💫🤪
you are worried about concrete but you are willing to line it with PLASTIC ? you have no idea what is in the soil you are using quit worrying and live your life
hi, so many youtuber's use vice grips, pliers, fit alls, etc to tighten nuts and bolts, refreshing to see some one using the proper tool, you take care like your videos
I've just made three large planters out of bald lorry tyres. I cut off the sidewalls and set them level on the ground. Painted and filled, they look really good and will last forever.
This guys channel like so many others try to give us advice, but all they are really doing is showing us crap they are paid to talk about. Look these concrete panels go under ceramic tile flooring and they cost ya about $15 for a 5foot section, so it's actually cheaper to use wood. Heck I would be more impressed if he made it from Bamboo like I did at my home, found the bamboo patch locally harvested it made a HUGE raised bed for under $20. Now that would be a video worth watching not sponsored by anyone. Don't fall for crap advice like this guys channel, he is only doing this for the monetization he could not care less your results or frustration.
A good tip for getting moss on the outside of the planters is to put some yoghurt and some moss in a blender so you get little pieces of moss mixed through the yoghurt, then paint it on. The yoghurt helps to both get the moss to stick and provide some nutrients to get it underway.
I worked as a tech rep for a building products company that manufactured cement board. My job was to work with architects, bldg inspectors, and home builders, advising them about the proper uses of our products. Time and again I am flabbergasted at the number of professionals who want to use some sort of adhesive, other than some sort of mortar/cement based product. You want to laminated 2 or more sheets of WonderBoard, DuRoc, or HardieBacker together & have it be super strong but slightly flexible? Just use an acrylic admix in mortar to put them together. Mount your angle brackets in a similar fashion to how you do joints on the backer boards. Use some of that flexible mortar with some fiberglass tape, etc. was still fun watching what you did, etc. Have fun!
Dang, I'll bet these would work really well paired up with the concrete retaining wall blocks, like the ones at Lowe's. That way, you completely resolve the issue of how they attach to each other. Just drop them into the slots!
Great idea. 25 yrs ago in the U.K. this would have been asbestos cement board and of course not so good! So if you find a pile of sheets at the bottom of your yard and think it’s ok, just ask yourself how old it is. Key is, you can’t tell by just looking at it. If they haven’t banned the use of asbestos in your country yet, just check what you’re buying
Absolutely love these. However, concrete is alkaline, and it leaches into the surrounding soil. I hope they work for you, but I wouldn’t be surprised if your veggies struggle. Maybe do soil samples and make sure to add acid to the soil to balance it out. You can add compost and/or peat moss.
This guys channel like so many others try to give us advice, but all they are really doing is showing us crap they are paid to talk about. Look these concrete panels go under ceramic tile flooring and they cost ya about $15 for a 5foot section, so it's actually cheaper to use wood. Heck I would be more impressed if he made it from Bamboo like I did at my home, found the bamboo patch locally harvested it made a HUGE raised bed for under $20. Now that would be a video worth watching not sponsored by anyone. Don't fall for crap advice like this guys channel, he is only doing this for the monetization he could not care less your results or frustration.
I was wondering if the chemicals in the board might not be harmful and leach into the vegetables? So much material warns of cancer causing ingredients. I know nothing about gardening or concrete board, just a question.
Wow, looks like an insane amount of work and product needed for what should be a simple and quick job. 5 minutes with a nail gun and the right wood is what I'm going for.
You could glue a strip of metal between the layers at the edges to increase the strength for your fasteners. Or use flashing cards between the layers at the corner and glue them in as you assemble the box.
According to my daughter I have OCD and yeah whatever. I have your solution but it will require an entire weekend. Lay traps outside. Drag every little thing out of your workshop, yes...EVERYTHING. Then, clean your workshop top to bottom, paint. Next, figure out where stuff goes...building materials, mechanical tools, wood working tools, benches, and tables. Flow and open space are important. Least used tools from everyday tools. Then, begin rooting thru all the stuff on the tarps. Create a ‘trash’ tarp, a ‘donate or sell’ tarp, and a tarp for unfinished projects, stuff that doesn’t belong in a workshop. Now, organize your tools, clean them as you go. If you find 15 hammers, please note, you have about 12 too many. Put them on the ‘donate or sell’ tarp. Keep that in mind as you go along...less is best in a workshop, time equals money, therefore if you are constantly looking for something and have junk everywhere, you cannot effectively use your workshop. Use a tablet and keep note of tools that need replacing, and throw away the broken ones. Also jot down tools that need sharpened, or need further organization. Yes, it’s ok to throw all drill bits in a single can next to the drill. I call that the ‘basket form of organization’, and it makes cleaning up easy. I use that method will mail and paperwork, I just throw it in a single box, it prevents me from losing stuff, and when I need one of those papers, it’s in one spot. While a cardboard box is ok for me to stick papers in and hide in a closet when company comes, it’s not good for a workshop. Go on-line and look how ‘others’ organize their workshops to get ideas. The best boxes to use are wooden ones, you can build them...after you organize your workshop, lol. You can do this! Good luck!
I've often wondered why Americans use so much wood outdoors. Raised beds should be made from concrete blocks/board or corrugated iron. Those things last forever!!!
I Wanted A Pros Vs Cons and Cost Comparison at the end of your video? How do cement board raised beds really compare at to 2" x 12"s? Cost? Delicate? Wear N Tear? Recommended one over the other and why? I loved the "How To", but would have liked your final analysis on best practices.
Ingenious!! How slick are you LOL. My only problem is lifting the final product LOL.......I use the fence boards and garden cloth. But these look really nice. Happy I found your channel.....Oh well you have a tractor too LOL..........good video
Great concept. Thanks for sharing. I was just thinking I need to re-do my wood beds. usually when I put concrete on a vertical surface I add wire mesh to give the concrete something to hold too. You feel confident that the concrete will continue to stick without mesh?
Thanks! I thought about that but I wanted to keep it simple. The cement is bonding to cement so there should be no issues. Just like the mortar you would normally put on the cement board.
For the effort, why not make your own cement board from quick set cement and fibreglass scrim? You could also build in attachment points or reinforcement. Good effort though and I like the finished look. Would be ideal as a greenhouse base board.
Someone had mentioned the lime leaching into the dirt. I'm a contractor who builds bathrooms on a regular basis and we know we have to be very careful of exposure to the silica in all the cement boards. If you cut them with a saw, please use a mask. And then the next question would be silica leaching into the dirt. I would imagine some plastic drop cloth which is cheap would stop that issue. Just a thought.
@@wap4311 Portland cement has a pH of around 11, making it alkaline. Fun fact: if you have concrete rainwater storage tanks, this tends to neutralize the otherwise slightly acidic rainwater - a benefit you don't get with poly or galvinized steel tanks.
@@paulortiz2035 I found this, as a contractor I knew not to breathe it, but it would probably not hurt plants. So I stand corrected. Thanks Dave Using a handheld circular saw to cut fiber‑cement board can generate respirable crystalline silica dust. When inhaled over time, the small particles of silica can irreversibly damage the lungs.
when trying to put any screw into masonary, I put gorilla glue on the threads and then spray some water on them and screw them in. When the gorilla glue sets up it expands and hardens, consolidating the crumbly masonary material. Much stronger than just the threaded fastener alone.
I just remodeled a bathroom, and used "Hardibacker" a hard solid sheet of concrete, it used to be at HD now only Lowes has it (in my area). You can cut it with a knife on one side then it will snap when bent. I prefer working with it . It is a bit more expensive but not by much.
As a former homebuilder and current property manager, I have used this product for years. Fiber cement boards are an excellent product and are designed for use in situations where they may become wet OCCASIONALLY. I hate to burst your bubble but no fiber cement board will hold up outdoors forever IF they are exposed to significant moisture. Many climates don't get a lot of rainfall so the planter might hold up quite well in, say, Nevada. But here in central Mississippi we routinely get 55 to 75 inches of rainfall per year. This material WILL NOT withstand being soaked, sometimes for days in a row, by that much water falling upon it. In my area, a piece of this material left exposed outdoors will crumble and break if picked up just by its own weight being pulled by gravity. So if you live in an arid climate with minimal rainfall, your planter probably will work just fine using cement fiber boards and last many years. But it will likely be deteriorated beyond useful condition in 3-5 years in a sub-tropical Deep South location, such as in Zones 8, 9, or 10.
@@kimrussell1155 yeah lime and other natural fibers, its all earth ingredients, its basically concrete and fiberglass mesh in layers. fiberglass is just glass strings nothing is leached. thats why this guys comment is garbage and shows his years are nothing but hey guy go do this over there because I learned this at a holiday inn express
@@genghischuan4886 Wrong. I've had to several time replace shower enclosures that were installed by someone else just 2-3 years prior because the cement board was exposed to moisture. Cement board is NOT meant to have continuous exposure to moisture. With the changing weather conditions of the north central U.S., It wouldn't last more than one or two seasons. If I am going to the effort to install a raised garden, it better last 15 years or more.
Cement board required special screws due to the alkaline. Regular screws will rust through in a very short time. The special screws are very hard and are usually green.
My only concern would be the lime from the concrete leaching into the soil over time and then into the plants. It may be very little and not a problem but just be aware.
Michael, Thank you for adding to the discussion. I learn so much from the MaxMan channel and also learn from the comments. I use concrete blochs for a squarefoot garden and just read that it can increase the PH. Thank goodness for small garden and the ability to make corrections.
Exactly! Concrete is very alkaline, and will kill most plants if you're not careful. Case in point. Before I was aware of this, I had a beautiful azalea and a lovely little pine tree die on me, and I couldn't figure out why. Then I realized it was the cement from my porch leaching into the soil. I've since started using an acidic fertilizer so the other azalea doesn't completely die.
I am late posting this. I built one of these for my Mom and got it set up and filled with dirt on Mothers Day. She is past the age for a large garden but always said she missed it. I saw your video a few weeks before last Mothers Day and THANK YOU! She currently has a couple tomatoes, cucumbers, and zucchini growing.
Any chemicals from the building material getting into the soil and food?
@@dougl6304 THAT'S what I'm concerned about!
I love a man taking care of his wife and wanting her to be happy. Brings tears to my eyes, literally. Thank you for loving her right. 🌸
Your documentation of failure makes my projects seem normal. You deal with issues slightly better than I do. Thanks for honestly sharing all aspects of your projects. I will watch many more videos. This video is my second watch.
"how you like it?"
"i Love it!"
Worth all the sweat.
Best hubby n wife!
Lived my whole 47 years of life and did not know the hole on a caulking gun was for cutting the tips my mind blown for a guy that can’t find a pocket knife to save his life you’ve opened up a whole New World
I didn't know the cutter was there either!! 😮😂
Make that 2 idiots😂
If you mix peat moss in the outer cement coating it will grow a little moss and look like it has been there forever.
on the inside if you paint on a thin coating of roof coating plastic you will eliminate breakdown and most of all stop the boards from wicking water from the roots of plants near the sides.
Hey I wanted to add one for you. My son came up with this one. We had an old fridge we needed to get rid of. So he gutted it. Flipped it on its back. Drilled holes in to the now bottom of the box for drainage. Lots and lots of holes. Now it will be my new raised bed. And it looks good too. White enamel
It's the old "refrigerator as a worm bed" trick.
LMAO, I was gonna say that I bet it would make a great worm bed. And I saw the other comment. But with the insulation in the walls, it IS the ideal worm bed for winter time.
When I lived in Michigan, I buried an old freezer in the ground and built a storage shed over it. We used it to store potatoes during the winter. The shed made it convenient to access during the winter and provided protection for potato cellar.
My husband used the cheapest backer board from Home Depot, cut it in half making 5'x 15" pieces, held together with 2 x 4's in the corners and mid planter "seam" and pounded rebar scraps into the clay soil we have here in Atlanta spaced around the outside, put a 2x4 top rail all around and it is still holding up, no cracks, no deteriorating, or bulging for 15 years now. the 2x4's have rotted on the inside, but the rebar still holds the backerboard in place. This was the cheapest way to get 10ft x 2.5ft x 15" deep raised planters. Can easily work the soil and plants from either side. Will do it again.
thanks for info. so he did not put cement on like in video? Did the boards bow out at the top? and about how tall was your bed? thanks.
@@user-xb1ht4py2v She said 15" deep.
@@robotnik77 must not have had my brain in gear. thanks.
What was the cost?
Yes, pictures please. I'm more of a visual learner. 😏
instead of the ALLCRETE, use QUICKWALL Surface bonding Cement, which contains fiberglass. The product is intended to surface bond dry stack (no mortar joint) masonry walls. You will have a lot more tension capacity on the surface fiber versus bending. It could make the board less likely to crack and crumble.
You are right, Wayne...I've used quickwall, and that stuff cures like steel.
Umm..can't some of that leak into the vegetablea
@@jamesolelo4406 fiberglass will leach too ? ... acrylic as well ? Thought of those as well ...don't want heavy so I can lift if want to clean beds or renovate lasagna style them later ...😜👍
Also saw a vid some kind acrylic is good to block 5g side effects of their frequencies ..to someway protect from the switch on happening ...eventually building the garden house is my aim ...half buried below for the warmth geothermal effect advantage ...little by little ...transform the soils first dig it build the walls and ceiling ...side bottom and top perforated vents for natural ventilation ...hope self sustainable 😜👍still in thought only lasagnas going on and collected branches for future trellis builds going ...not ready enough yet for winter😔🤔😜
I had to build a vent well for my raised foundation house. I made it with reinforced concrete so one could stack 4 cars on top no problem. I wanted a cover to keep the rain out, so I used cement board on it. While you cannot step on it, it is about 17 years old and doing well.
Appreciate the fact that you're not going full Pro on us and doing things like a normal person would. Earned my subscription. Keep up the great work 👍
Paint the torque washers red, purple, white.. whatever color. Then paint the head of the carriage bolt yellow. It will make the combo look like flower heads.
That would look good.
This is exactly what I was thinking the whole time!! If I make these, I might even have my daughter paint flowers all over them!!!
Yes, I thought they could really look like rather lovely flower 🌺 if they were painted up.
Ladies may have plenty of fingernail polish for that project...all kinds of potential
Love that
Awesome project!!!
Handy man tip 101: when pilot drilling holes, start in reverse for a couple twists then switch to forward to stay exactly on yoyr original marking.
Thanks!
Taz man I see you everywhere. We must have a lot of the same interests
@@SuperNoticer awesome! Good to meet you and have the same interests 👊😎
Yoo that's one creative ass idea!!
I made raised beds just using chicken wire n cardboard once(def worked) but this would b awesome to try.
Ya get 10/10 for originality
Two additions: I would lay ~5" BB strips flat on the ground forming skirt around the bed. The frame would go on top of the new skirt. That way you have a 4" border that grass cannot grow on and the mower can drive over, no weed-wacking. I would also add hardware cloth under the bed. Keeps the voles from moving in. Using BB is a great idea.
What is "BB"? I've seen that referring to baltic birch plywood, but what is it in your context?
@@IncandescentDaD Backer Board
This is such a cool idea, but nothing beats a couple pieces of wood screwed together in under 15 minutes. I pray for you in your efforts to make more of these XD
We used hardiebacker 4x8 sheets. Each sheet would make 4 pieces that were 2x4 and they made a square 4 feet on a side. We are just west of Philadelphia and they held up for 6 years with no issues (externally fixed and painted pine 2x3s held the backer board in place.) the pine lumber is still ok but the backer board really began to deteriorate in the last 18 months. Maybe because the units were filled to nearly the full 24 inches of height and that created a lot of pressure, but, it saved us a lot of bending over. Replacing the backer board is going to be a big project, but, we paid $23 for a 4x8 sheet and it was way less than the soil, mulch, peat etc that went into the bed. As an aside, I might think about lining the thing with sone kind of insulation, not sure what/how. We put a cover over the top and heated using 2 100 watt bulbs mounted in #10 cans during the night and had chard and kale through 4 winters. There is a good RUclips video on casting lightweight concrete panels. Anyway, it worked well for us and even though in disrepair they are still functional after 8years.
And here I am 12 years later with plain old untreated framing lumber boxes holding up great.
I really like this concept! It will be so durable and I like how the carriage bolts look, too. I would love to see an update once it is planted!
It’s been a long time since I’ve seen such an original video about gardening that I may actually use. I’m very interested to know how well it has worked over a few years. Is it as durable as you hoped? What do you believe that you gained by adding a thin coat of cement? Very interested in seeing a follow up video. Good on ya mate!
I like your ideas. You might use galvanized chicken fencing between the two boards as a reinforcement to prevent cracking. Also, fiberglass matting used at the corners would spread the stresses over a larger area. Right-angle steel stakes at the corners would also help with that stress.
Great idea! If I may suggest an alternate support system, 6 inch pvc burred about a foot down then back-filled with rocks and Portland cement allows you to drill anything to them, just set up your concrete after you drill your screws in, I've found that method allows for much taller raised beds. I'm in a wheelchair and I've found ideal height for elderly and chair bound people is around 22" to 36", and some much higher for a pull under bed design. A good video describing the pvc support method can been seen at my channel under the video "How to make raised garden beds with benches.". In addition, if you add a two inch piece of copper tape around the lip edge of the top of the bed it will prevent snails and slugs from wreaking havoc on your crops.
I didn't know copper kept pests away. Please tell me more!!!!👍
@@bobbiduval7961 Could one reason be it is hot in the sun for a slug/insects to cross?
Perfect! Exactly the info I need.
@@bobbiduval7961 Only slugs and snails. The copper reacts with the slime that snails and slugs secrete, causing a disruption in their nervous system similar to an electric shock.
@@bobbiduval7961 They get an electric charge from copper
We tried concrete blocks a summer, but they hold heat overnight, which attracted copperheads. I later learned about Fly ash leaching into the soil as well. Went back to wood.
I've been thinking about using concrete blocks for a raised bed. Your info saves a lot of work for me. Thank you so much for sharing.
You can paint them (latex paint) 🙂 No more leaching anything 😉
You say, 'Which attracted copperheads' like it's a bad thing. Cheers from Australia.
@@venderstrat most Americans are terrified of any snakes despite there being remarkably few in most areas… some places have tons tho… still more likely to die from tripping while running from a snake than from an actual snake bite
Thank you for the warning!! I hate snakes, especially venomous snakes. The only “good” snake is the king snake, imho.
With the amount of time and labor, plus cost or the boards, it would be cheaper to just go and purchase 8x8x16" masonry blocks and build it that way. Build it with the holes up and you can plant in side of those as well.
The grass is growning in the holes in my blocks. So that's not good, Solution to get rid of the grass is what?
@@williamfp3 I put cardboard under all of my raised beds and have no grass, or weed issues. The soil/compost you use, maybe the problem too.
My daughter used a local compost and her beds are full of grass and weeds. Good luck.
@@pennynewell3459 don't we all have pet peeve and that is grass and weeds we all hate them in our gardens.
@@williamfp3 Cover the holes with 8 x 16 x 2 inch pavers--adds a nice cap, although it also adds to the cost. If you build the beds 2 courses high, they are a good sitting height for working in the bed.
I use cardboard under the box then fill box with Mel’s garden Mix.
Just to tag on here. If by chance you are having a deck built using composite wood product, if there reasonable sized cut offs or some extra full size lengths left over, this would also be a excellent material.
I made some cold frames from some of this and they just will not rot.
Suggestion for increase strength :
Make each inner board length shorter in length by two thickness of a single board and center them on the outer boards so that the extremities will overlap in a "stair" fashion on all four corners.
This will dramatically increase the strength of these corners with the addition of bonding or cement and will stop leakage from the corners.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but would this be a half lap miter joint? I'm just trying to picture this in my head. Thanks.
@@oldporkchops I think since you are setting it vertical it would just be a half lap, no reason to mitre tha corners unless laying flat together. I don't think with the lack of edge strength in this material that it would add a significant amount of strength. Probably be better of to just add a big dollap of epoxy to the brackets before you screw them down. Conversely The quickwall type product added into inside corners with some fibre glass sheet would obviate the problem altogether but would cost more and be more work.
Great idea. I have to make one myself.
Instead of using cement to coat the box, I would use Thinset for tilling. It sticks better and some brands are extremely strong. My pick would be the Schluter brand.
might as well go ahead and tile it! high class...
Last spring I built a garden bed with PT 2 x 8's on the outside sitting on a mow strip of concrete blocks level with the grass, and 12" tall concrete board on the inside going deeper to keep grass out. Mixed crack resistant concrete to re-enforce the corners. Took a while to build because I had odd angles on the corners, but it's holding up great. Thanks for the quality video, I like your style.
Just a quick note. If you are growing food, pt is out because its chemicals leach into the plants.
@@carsonwhitehead1463 That's not true. The newer pressure treated wood is preserved with copper, which does not harm plants. I've used it for several years without any problems at all. The older pt wood from the 90's had arsenic in it, and in the 70's had pentachlorophenol, but nobody uses that anymore. The bed I mentioned here I lined with concrete board anyway, so the pt wood was not in contact with the soil in the bed.
@@HartzHomestead I'm glad to hear that. Apparently Scott's Lowe's and Home Depot have not gotten the message yet. Thanks for the update. I will look it up so I'll be more updated. That's why I was looking at the use of the Hardie board because wood rots so easily where we live and every Source around me was telling me that pressure treated can't be used. The pressure-treated that you are using, is it yellow wood or green pressure-treated?
@@carsonwhitehead1463 Look on the label. The older CCA contained arsenic and was discontinued for residential use in 2003, though plants will not take up arsenic unless the soils are deficient in phosphorus. The American Wood Protection Association and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency say lumber treated with ACQ is safe for garden use. CA and MCQ are also copper based, and safe. Though the toxicity is very low, it's still not allowed if you're selling produce as "organic". If you Google "is pressure treated lumber safe for vegetable gardens?" you'll find a multitude of articles on the subject. The same copper chemicals are commonly used in swimming pools and as a fungicide on food crops. If you're still concerned, you can dry pt lumber thoroughly first, then seal it with an oil based wood sealer, or line it with heavy plastic, which may also help the wood last even longer.
@@HartzHomestead thanks so much
Thanks for the great idea. I didn't think to use 2 layers glued together. I had a bunch of old product in the garage, some of it 20 yo. I cut the 1/2" backer and used outdoor primer on it. I cut out the sod, so the bottom lip is supported by dirt, then temporarily held the boards with caulk, followed by primed 2x4s around the lip to hold that together. I'll give your project a try when this one fails. My only expense was for screws and a yard of garden soil... and cleared some space in the garage.
Hey! When I renovated my bathroom, it was suggested that cement board in the tub-surround was better than the water damaged drywall I was replacing. 35 years later, it was the right call. Thanks for pointing out what was right in front of me for so very long. (And for those fly-ash detractors, when building just line the inside with a (I'd use plastic garden dirt bag) barrier.) And thanks for the intro to torque washers and concrete grinding stones. I need both!😂
This came out GOOD! I didnt know you were going to use the cement to cover it. I actually LOVE the screws on the outside also. GREAT JOB! Your wife is a lucky woman
Here's a nice tip. Use sanded tile grout for the plaster. It trowels on very nicely, sponge finishes easily and there are color choices. I do it on concrete block walls and planters.
Was just gonna say that!
This guys channel like so many others try to give us advice, but all they are really doing is showing us crap they are paid to talk about. Look these concrete panels go under ceramic tile flooring and they cost ya about $15 for a 5foot section, so it's actually cheaper to use wood. Heck I would be more impressed if he made it from Bamboo like I did at my home, found the bamboo patch locally harvested it made a HUGE raised bed for under $20. Now that would be a video worth watching not sponsored by anyone. Don't fall for crap advice like this guys channel, he is only doing this for the monetization he could not care less your results or frustration.
@@nulledrust9809 I agree with a little of the monetization aspect you are referring to. Because, I think he is making content to get views. But, it did appear this was the direction he wanted to go in and just made content of it. He had a video sponsor, but not for the product he is using. But, I was left thinking the entire time, where is the money and time savings here? Concrete board, cement , and the hardware to get it together.... is definitely not cost effective. The setup is messy and time consuming. But, the longevity is probably far superior to anything made out of wood. So that is a tradeoff one would have to consider. In the end... I was entertained a little and learned something I hadn't thought of.... So, I can't say my time was wasted.
People always be talking about videos everybody else should make but don't lift a finger to make one themselves.
😬 yikes!
You may have notice the outer skin is like a fiberglass mesh. That mesh is the only thing preventing the fragile cement inner layer from falling apart into a million small pieces. So that is a huge hint how the cement board can be used successfully for raised bed garden frames. Ever heard of thin shell cement project like papercrete? Just a hint.
This an excellent approach - thank you for talking the time to work through the build. I’m shocked at the cost of constructing a raised bed using corrugated metal and treated wood!
I’ve moved towards re-using commercial metal roll up (garage) door panels
Repurposing old materials is the cheapest and smartest, unless you grow veggies in your front yard. Garage panels sound great.
Great idea. Another option would be to assemble the box in the field using rebar (or something of that ilk) pounded into the ground, attach the cement board to the vertical rebar with wire or zip ties and dispense with the corner angle braces. You could also use those green garden/fence stakes as the uprights pounded into the ground. If you leave them tall, then they become a structure for tenting when cold/frost comes along. I love this cement board idea - Hardi board - comes in 4' x 8' sheets which gives it a longer bed. Or one could use the Hardi board length as the "tie-together" piece of an 8' bed with 2 thicker duraboards on the inside of the bed (and using the stake idea for structure). This would eliminate the need to coat the duraboard with cement as the Hardiboard, on the outside of the bed, would provide the finished look. Just throwing out some ideas. But using cement board is a great idea - a much nicer look than the corrugated metal concept. Thanks for posting!
A wooden post would work well. Screw right through the board and into the post.
Hardiboard in my area comes in 3x5 sheets. I'd imagine a 4x8 sheet would be quite heavy and fragile under it's own torque loads when lifted.
I had the same idea as you before seeing Haxman, just wasn't building raised beds at the time. I was thinking the same as you regarding rebar, but had not considered the garden stakes. Great idea ! I don't need my beds very tall, so another option is using 1"x8" siding boards instead of cutting down 4'x8' sheets. A neighbor ended up advertising some 4'x9' hardie panels for super cheap, so I'm cutting those down this week. Got Three 4'x9' sheet's for $60, and that's enough to do Four 4'x12' beds at 8" height.
My dad and I used cement boards to make a couple garden beds a few years back in our old house. We only cut to size and stuck in dirt and backfilled with potting mix, no glues or nails. It worked pretty well. It was a sloped area so we only put the boards to make a u-shape to level it.
Nifty idea. I agree on the flimsiness aspect. I was just working with Hardie Plank for the first time and was surprised at how easily it shattered when I dropped a piece from only about 3 feet. If the gardener is careful while spading the soil it should be ok. Laminating (or using thicker pieces) should help a lot with the flimsiness/brittleness And it should definitely outlast wood.
Freeze thaw cycle
@@vanderumd11 Hadn't thought about that. Could be a problem.
@@drjohnson98 not in florida. LOL
Concrete type sidings are not made for ground contact. Please see the manufacturers specifications .It will break and crumble with any amount of moisture contact
Use modified thinset (tile setting) mortar to bond your half-sheets together. Comes dry in a bag like the Sakrete - mix w water for 5 mins. Use a deep notched trowel and totally cover one side then squish together Same thing you’d use to bond them to a subfloor, and essentially what the board itself is made out of. You’ll get a homogeneous assembly that will never come apart. Cement board is not nail base and will not hold any kind of fastener threads so your bolts are the way to go. You could also screw through the material into wood corners - use wide head exterior screws.
Yep, sounds good about the wood inside corner's. Maybe 4x4 post cut to length and screws with some washers should work just fine.
Made mine from hemlock from my local sawmill. Charred them inside and out with a brush torch. But I also made mine 14 feet long for root veggies for winter eating. If I was going smaller, I'd try this.
What does the charring do? Much appreciate if you have time to reply.
@@rubybenge9301 charring the wood makes it water proof, big proof, and prevent decay. It’s an ancient Japanese form of preserving wood called ShoSugiBan
My dad and I did this about 8 years ago. The beds lasted two years before falling apart. We even had the sides reinforced with all-thread and 4in square washers.
Bc it's not real concrete.
You’ve got a great attitude and presentation. As a tile contractor I’m often throwing these scraps away because there too small for the next job. No longer will I do that especially after recently building 2 raised beds out of 2x12 lumber($$$ ouch). Thanks pal.
How much is a 2x12?
I like the idea ! I built forms and made my own lite weight panels ( a lot of work ) . I might suggest using high strength motor mix to encase the cement boards . It makes them pretty much water proof which would eliminate freeze damage . For support externally I would use treated 2 X 2s , but never use treated internally if growing veggies .
I'd like it better with a screen on the bottom to keep gophers, voles and moles out!
Dd you mean to say "Mortar Mix"?
@@robotnik77 I thought he meant WD-40
@@robotnik77. Motor mix. You know...2 cycle oil.
@@robotnik77 no he meant motor. if you ever worked with a crew of brick layers it's called motor.
If you’re going to bond two halves of a panel together, don’t both scoring both sides, leave them connected. I expect the factory edges to be stronger, so make them be the top edge. Use U shaped fence posts on the outside of the corners to hold the corners on. The dirt on the inside will keep the corners pushed out.
I wasted my time with same comment, then read yours.
Well I see you 2 will be starting your own channels and showing us how to do this stuff right
Maybe use 2x2 wood (or composite) for the corners... Less hardware and expense.
@@pastureexpectationsfarm6412 Yes then you can screw rith into them them. Thats how I hold my wood ones together.
I've worked with this stuff and it doesn't bend over like you are suggesting. It snap cracks and separates.
I thought I was the only one to think of this,lol. I built 3 of these last year and they worked so well, I built 3 more just today.
I’ve built several raised beds always using redwood. Last spring I could not get the wide thick redwood boards. I ended up using cement board. Only, not as good a plan as yours. This year we’re expanding so I’m going with your plan!! Thanks so much. 🤗😋👍
I love watching different gardening ideas. My friend made beautiful huge planters with cloth mixed with cement years ago. Pretty easy. No building, hammers or nails ither!
Nicely done. I like the look of the carriage bolts through they really add to it
Thanks! Yeah, when Kim saw them she loved them so it worked out for the best. 😄
If you paint them, they'd look like little flowers.
I thought of doing this many years ago until I discovered these boards contained fly ash which is extremely harmful when it leeches out into the soil you’re growing food in. Also most U.S cinder blocks contain fly ash. I ultimately chose cedar which is more expensive,however a much safer choice. Great video though, good work.
HaHa!! CONCRETE blocks! Not cinder blocks. I seriously doubt that the past 2 - 3 generations even know what a cinder block looks like.
When I built my raised garden bed, my concern was the material leeching chemicals to the soil. That means no treated lumber. I used regular untreated fir from the big box store and 3 years later, they are still in very good condition. Maybe they won't last as long as treated lumber, but it's better than eating food planted with tainted soil.
The big box stores concrete mixes and concrete in many areas of the country contain fly ash. I believe that it is bound to the cement and doesn't leach to any degree.
@@james1795 I grew up with the real thing in the 90's and early 00's they're still around. Only recently started seeing concrete blocks take over. Cinder blocks fuck up your hands though, so I can see why the switch is happening.
@@robstephens Yes, it leeches over time. Several indipendent group studied already demonstrated it, that's why it's hard to obtain a "safe for food cointament/production" label. At least here in Europe, don't know much about the States but concrete is pretty much the same everywhere, especially the cheap one.
My suggestion: Use the cement board closer to how it is used for tile. Drive Cedar or pressure treated 2x4s into the ground and then attach cement board inside the lumber with screws, and then fill with dirt. The screws will eventually fail, but the soil will hold things in place still. Even if the boxes eventually fall apart, you can just rebuild them by piling up the dirt toward the center and rebuilding. The cement board will still be holding together, and you might be able to reuse some of the 2x4 posts.
Use PVC post
I would not use pressure TREATED wood in a soil my food will grow in.
Use plastic deck boards 5/4” x 6 last forever
Paint the carriage bolts like its a flower. Black center yellow petals. Or similar.
Two minutes in and I've already learned something new: the dang caulking gun has a thing to cut open the tube with. I've been sawing tubes open with my pocketknife like a chump. Magnificent.
Hi Kim! A kinda cool look is to buy bulk gunny sack material to wrap around the outside of the container. Lasts a long time in the sun, helps retain moisture.
my baby sitter was named gunny.
This turned out great! If Kim wants the rusty bolts you can always take a wire wheel and zip off the zinc coating.
Cotton ball and muriatic acid works well, but remember to dip in baking soda to neutralize.
oh, this is cool. couple ideas:
1. offset the plies to get garden bed side lengths longer than 5 feet
2. put a mesh between the plies and use concrete as the "glue" instead of construction adhesive
3. use angle iron or angle aluminum for the corner joints which can double as stakes for the corners
Thanks! Great ideas!
I like these ideas. The corners will definately outlast the hardie backer.
Use an old bed frame pieces for the corners. And gou can easily make 3ft high by 8 ft long x 4ft wide raised garden bed that will last a good 5-6 years.
Excellent ideas!
used cement board 25 years ago for the inside single sheet and treated 2x4 for outside support. Still working today.
I like how you add in the humor. Your humor reminds me of myself but you are so much funnier. Crazy effects also, thank you so very much for the info and the laughs.
Love the content, funny and I love how you aren't afraid to out yourself out there. That said you showed me that this ain't a project I'd want to do.
I used corrugated galvanized with wood frame for our raised beds
-- so far so good. Thanks @Haxman!!
Yes! We used this in our beds this year. Built 2 big beds and framed them with 2 X 4s. They're amazing! I was doubtful at first but they did great. And they seep lime into the soil so they're good for growing tomatoes.
Any idea how long it will hold up?
Any pictures? This sounds awesome
That's about the best thing I've ever seen for a raised bed. What a great idea. Thank you!
😊 Only problem is that I'd have to build it in place since I don't have a tractor.
Over a decade of using green lumber and still holding strong. Great patina with no signs of rot or serious warping.
These gardens are in the rainy PNW too.
I have beautiful faux finished floors made from hardie backer board. My recent floor is 4 x 4 squares on the diagonal, finished with layers of natural and organic stains and sealed.
Looks like a recycled museum floor from Italy.
Love your unexpected use!!!
What? WHAT??
I wish there was a way you could attach photos here... would love to see this!
those carriage bolts honestly look like little flowers! super cute!
Get the kids to paint some yellow paint on them to look like flower petals. 😁
I saw your comment after I posted one similar. 😆
That is a nifty project! Happy to see the channel growing and now with a sponsor. Excited to see new hax coming up, great content.
Thank you!
Super useful and entertaining host! Great feedback and expertise! I love the humor and authenticity!
I like the looks of that bolt and carriage bolt. I think if you spray paint the outside of the box it would look really nice and that would hide the head of the bolt as well as that "thing" you pound into the side first. What's the concrete for??? To protect the cement board right? Fantastic JOB for sure and I am so jealous going to have to show hubby this video for SUIRE!!!! Your wife is one lucky lady to have such a talented hubby... true story NICE JOB!!! God's blessings to you all. Ugh now I have garden box envy LOLOL!!!
My mind immediately went to tiling it, like the buildings in St. Augustine, FL.
I like the way the carriage bolts look. Great idea especially with the cost of lumber.
I have used concrete board as my forms to do some simple small pours, and then stucco the outside to make it look nice. You could also add an offset to each corner and glue and then mortar them together in place of the screws and honestly I think it would hold better than the corner brackets.
whats an offset and how do you add it?
@@philindeblanc The offset he is referring to is to make the inside boards length shorter than the outside boards length on each end by half the total thickness the two boards make together, so all 4 segments of the raised bed seat together with 3 points of contact at each corner that can themselves be bonded making a stronger more permanent connection between all the segments.
Keep in mind those offsets will result in either an inch overall extra garden bed length, or an inch overall extra garden bed width depending on which parallel 2 segments have the exposed outside board ends.
@@mattstanislen3165 Ah...ok! thank you!
Lap joint at corners.
Check your soil pH over time. I used cinder blocks to make some raised beds and they made my soil alkaline. I had to track down some soil sulfur to acidify the soil
Coffee grounds and peat moss will increase acidity, no hunting required. And any coffee place will give you used grounds for free.
This is genius! I used that to replace the bottom row of siding that mice chewed through to get in my garage. Works great, holds paint. I love this idea!
Screw those lumber dealers! Ive been hating lumber dealers my whole life! they ripped me and my dad off for 35 years! Love this video! And love that you aint taking crap from those lumber dealers!! new sub!
One thing I would definitely research before using this method for growing anything you plan to eat would be chemicals getting into your soil. Even when people use wood for vegetables they use cedar and not treated wood. But for flowers and edging this would be great, could tint the cement and match it to your siding.
Also the cement “base”or acid? PH factor rating?
Alkalinity or acidity?
@@dougl6304 Cement has a oh of about 12 or 13 so if anything it'll raise your ph.
I just made my daughter a planter for her back porch using vinyl floor planks. I just made wood frame and nail those floor planks to it. I put 6 mil thickness drop cloth plastic sheet inside the planter with 2 holes on the bottom for drainage and I put flashing tape around the top.
You’re so clever! Love the look. My concern though is planting fruits & veggies in them. Do you know if any chemicals will leach into the soil that can end up in the plants?
Thanks! I researched it and I couldn't find anything bad about concrete.
Veggies enriched in Vitamin C(ment) is a quick way towards a truly 'fortified' diet...😂
@@HAXMAN Now I’ve got us both digging! Fly ash (aka coal ash) is laden with heavy metals and is used as a replacement for Portland Cement in some products. Fly ash is a waste by-product from coal plants. If it’s not listed on the packaging, I don’t think one can know whether it’s used or not. And I didn’t look far enough to learn if the EPA allows it to be also called Portland Cement or go unidentified. I did read a cement guy saying fly ash weighs considerably less and is much lighter in color.
Geez, we have to be super sleuths to safely navigate this chemical world we live in! I suppose to be on the safe side, one could use a plastic liner… if you can find large sheets of food grade BPA-free plastic! 🤪😵💫🤪
you are worried about concrete but you are willing to line it with PLASTIC ? you have no idea what is in the soil you are using quit worrying and live your life
@@ram1brn he wrote bpa free plastic…
hi, so many youtuber's use vice grips, pliers, fit alls, etc to tighten nuts and bolts, refreshing to see some one using the proper tool, you take care like your videos
I've just made three large planters out of bald lorry tyres. I cut off the sidewalls and set them level on the ground. Painted and filled, they look really good and will last forever.
Great video and idea. First time I've seen one of your videos and I'm hooked. You are a pro at talking to the camera. Excellent delivery!
Funny and friendly dude! I'm hooked too! And he drinks coffee like a CHAMP!
took the words out of my mouth....wow! yea this guy is one cool cat! really great ideal on this...
This guys channel like so many others try to give us advice, but all they are really doing is showing us crap they are paid to talk about. Look these concrete panels go under ceramic tile flooring and they cost ya about $15 for a 5foot section, so it's actually cheaper to use wood. Heck I would be more impressed if he made it from Bamboo like I did at my home, found the bamboo patch locally harvested it made a HUGE raised bed for under $20. Now that would be a video worth watching not sponsored by anyone. Don't fall for crap advice like this guys channel, he is only doing this for the monetization he could not care less your results or frustration.
I was thinking for the connections adhering a thin sheet of steel in between the plies durock. Then you can use self-tappers/washers through it.
Great idea!
A good tip for getting moss on the outside of the planters is to put some yoghurt and some moss in a blender so you get little pieces of moss mixed through the yoghurt, then paint it on. The yoghurt helps to both get the moss to stick and provide some nutrients to get it underway.
ugh....what? lol
@@googleisskynet7312 Yes, really. It's an old trick.
This works if you have a shady area - moss bakes, dries up, and dies in direct sunlight. It needs constant moisture.
It works…moss and buttermilk in a blender, paint it on thick , spray it to stay damp.
Gotta luv yoghurt
I worked as a tech rep for a building products company that manufactured cement board. My job was to work with architects, bldg inspectors, and home builders, advising them about the proper uses of our products. Time and again I am flabbergasted at the number of professionals who want to use some sort of adhesive, other than some sort of mortar/cement based product. You want to laminated 2 or more sheets of WonderBoard, DuRoc, or HardieBacker together & have it be super strong but slightly flexible? Just use an acrylic admix in mortar to put them together. Mount your angle brackets in a similar fashion to how you do joints on the backer boards. Use some of that flexible mortar with some fiberglass tape, etc. was still fun watching what you did, etc. Have fun!
Dang, I'll bet these would work really well paired up with the concrete retaining wall blocks, like the ones at Lowe's. That way, you completely resolve the issue of how they attach to each other. Just drop them into the slots!
Great idea. 25 yrs ago in the U.K. this would have been asbestos cement board and of course not so good! So if you find a pile of sheets at the bottom of your yard and think it’s ok, just ask yourself how old it is. Key is, you can’t tell by just looking at it.
If they haven’t banned the use of asbestos in your country yet, just check what you’re buying
I think those would look really cool with a woodgrain concrete stamp applied to the surface finish and a bit of color added. Great idea!
Good God there's got to be a better way!
Absolutely love these. However, concrete is alkaline, and it leaches into the surrounding soil. I hope they work for you, but I wouldn’t be surprised if your veggies struggle. Maybe do soil samples and make sure to add acid to the soil to balance it out. You can add compost and/or peat moss.
Exactly what I was thinking!
Thanks for bringing these facts up.
This guys channel like so many others try to give us advice, but all they are really doing is showing us crap they are paid to talk about. Look these concrete panels go under ceramic tile flooring and they cost ya about $15 for a 5foot section, so it's actually cheaper to use wood. Heck I would be more impressed if he made it from Bamboo like I did at my home, found the bamboo patch locally harvested it made a HUGE raised bed for under $20. Now that would be a video worth watching not sponsored by anyone. Don't fall for crap advice like this guys channel, he is only doing this for the monetization he could not care less your results or frustration.
I was wondering if the chemicals in the board might not be harmful and leach into the vegetables? So much material warns of cancer causing ingredients. I know nothing about gardening or concrete board, just a question.
Wow, looks like an insane amount of work and product needed for what should be a simple and quick job. 5 minutes with a nail gun and the right wood is what I'm going for.
You could glue a strip of metal between the layers at the edges to increase the strength for your fasteners. Or use flashing cards between the layers at the corner and glue them in as you assemble the box.
How is your workshop so tidy? I've been looking for my engineers square for about the past 8 months.
Tight shots and close ups my friend. 😉
@@HAXMAN 😂
According to my daughter I have OCD and yeah whatever. I have your solution but it will require an entire weekend.
Lay traps outside. Drag every little thing out of your workshop, yes...EVERYTHING. Then, clean your workshop top to bottom, paint. Next, figure out where stuff goes...building materials, mechanical tools, wood working tools, benches, and tables. Flow and open space are important. Least used tools from everyday tools. Then, begin rooting thru all the stuff on the tarps. Create a ‘trash’ tarp, a ‘donate or sell’ tarp, and a tarp for unfinished projects, stuff that doesn’t belong in a workshop. Now, organize your tools, clean them as you go. If you find 15 hammers, please note, you have about 12 too many. Put them on the ‘donate or sell’ tarp. Keep that in mind as you go along...less is best in a workshop, time equals money, therefore if you are constantly looking for something and have junk everywhere, you cannot effectively use your workshop. Use a tablet and keep note of tools that need replacing, and throw away the broken ones. Also jot down tools that need sharpened, or need further organization. Yes, it’s ok to throw all drill bits in a single can next to the drill. I call that the ‘basket form of organization’, and it makes cleaning up easy. I use that method will mail and paperwork, I just throw it in a single box, it prevents me from losing stuff, and when I need one of those papers, it’s in one spot. While a cardboard box is ok for me to stick papers in and hide in a closet when company comes, it’s not good for a workshop. Go on-line and look how ‘others’ organize their workshops to get ideas. The best boxes to use are wooden ones, you can build them...after you organize your workshop, lol. You can do this! Good luck!
@@blondek767 you are my soul sister. I used to be like you in my younger years, now at 63 my back is crumbling 😪. Take care dear one!
🤣🤣🤣
Looks great and I love seeing a different way to do these boxes that will be long lasting and inexpensive….
I've often wondered why Americans use so much wood outdoors. Raised beds should be made from concrete blocks/board or corrugated iron. Those things last forever!!!
Not 100% sure, but wood is very cheap in America compared to many other places. Also wood looks way nicer 😉
@@troutey2113 It use to be cheap. The price of lumber has gone up a lot since the pandemic.
@@KyrenaH hope the stimmies were worth it
I Wanted A Pros Vs Cons and Cost Comparison at the end of your video? How do cement board raised beds really compare at to 2" x 12"s? Cost? Delicate? Wear N Tear? Recommended one over the other and why? I loved the "How To", but would have liked your final analysis on best practices.
Ingenious!! How slick are you LOL. My only problem is lifting the final product LOL.......I use the fence boards and garden cloth. But these look really nice. Happy I found your channel.....Oh well you have a tractor too LOL..........good video
Great concept. Thanks for sharing. I was just thinking I need to re-do my wood beds. usually when I put concrete on a vertical surface I add wire mesh to give the concrete something to hold too. You feel confident that the concrete will continue to stick without mesh?
Thanks! I thought about that but I wanted to keep it simple. The cement is bonding to cement so there should be no issues. Just like the mortar you would normally put on the cement board.
The wire mesh is for strength, nothing to do with bonding.
For the effort, why not make your own cement board from quick set cement and fibreglass scrim? You could also build in attachment points or reinforcement. Good effort though and I like the finished look. Would be ideal as a greenhouse base board.
Someone had mentioned the lime leaching into the dirt.
I'm a contractor who builds bathrooms on a regular basis and we know we have to be very careful of exposure to the silica in all the cement boards. If you cut them with a saw, please use a mask. And then the next question would be silica leaching into the dirt. I would imagine some plastic drop cloth which is cheap would stop that issue.
Just a thought.
Concrete is very acidic
@@wap4311 Portland cement has a pH of around 11, making it alkaline.
Fun fact: if you have concrete rainwater storage tanks, this tends to neutralize the otherwise slightly acidic rainwater - a benefit you don't get with poly or galvinized steel tanks.
Isn't sand silica?
@@paulortiz2035
I found this, as a contractor I knew not to breathe it, but it would probably not hurt plants. So I stand corrected. Thanks Dave
Using a handheld circular saw to cut fiber‑cement board can generate respirable crystalline silica dust. When inhaled over time, the small particles of silica can irreversibly damage the lungs.
when trying to put any screw into masonary, I put gorilla glue on the threads and then spray some water on them and screw them in. When the gorilla glue sets up it expands and hardens, consolidating the crumbly masonary material. Much stronger than just the threaded fastener alone.
I just remodeled a bathroom, and used "Hardibacker" a hard solid sheet of concrete, it used to be at HD now only Lowes has it (in my area). You can cut it with a knife on one side then it will snap when bent. I prefer working with it . It is a bit more expensive but not by much.
As a former homebuilder and current property manager, I have used this product for years. Fiber cement boards are an excellent product and are designed for use in situations where they may become wet OCCASIONALLY. I hate to burst your bubble but no fiber cement board will hold up outdoors forever IF they are exposed to significant moisture. Many climates don't get a lot of rainfall so the planter might hold up quite well in, say, Nevada. But here in central Mississippi we routinely get 55 to 75 inches of rainfall per year. This material WILL NOT withstand being soaked, sometimes for days in a row, by that much water falling upon it. In my area, a piece of this material left exposed outdoors will crumble and break if picked up just by its own weight being pulled by gravity.
So if you live in an arid climate with minimal rainfall, your planter probably will work just fine using cement fiber boards and last many years. But it will likely be deteriorated beyond useful condition in 3-5 years in a sub-tropical Deep South location, such as in Zones 8, 9, or 10.
he sealed it, it will be fine hes not the first
@@genghischuan4886 He didn't 'seal' anything. The box would be mush in a couple of weeks (if that) in Wisconsin.
@@wintercoder6687 nope it works fine yall are clowns that never used the product
@@kimrussell1155 yeah lime and other natural fibers, its all earth ingredients, its basically concrete and fiberglass mesh in layers. fiberglass is just glass strings nothing is leached. thats why this guys comment is garbage and shows his years are nothing but hey guy go do this over there because I learned this at a holiday inn express
@@genghischuan4886 Wrong. I've had to several time replace shower enclosures that were installed by someone else just 2-3 years prior because the cement board was exposed to moisture. Cement board is NOT meant to have continuous exposure to moisture. With the changing weather conditions of the north central U.S., It wouldn't last more than one or two seasons. If I am going to the effort to install a raised garden, it better last 15 years or more.
Cement board required special screws due to the alkaline. Regular screws will rust through in a very short time. The special screws are very hard and are usually green.
My only concern would be the lime from the concrete leaching into the soil over time and then into the plants. It may be very little and not a problem but just be aware.
Michael, Thank you for adding to the discussion. I learn so much from the MaxMan channel and also learn from the comments. I use concrete blochs for a squarefoot garden and just read that it can increase the PH. Thank goodness for small garden and the ability to make corrections.
They say acid rain causes concrete to leach chemicals into the soil. Especially concrete that has been poured recently.
Exactly! Concrete is very alkaline, and will kill most plants if you're not careful. Case in point. Before I was aware of this, I had a beautiful azalea and a lovely little pine tree die on me, and I couldn't figure out why. Then I realized it was the cement from my porch leaching into the soil. I've since started using an acidic fertilizer so the other azalea doesn't completely die.
I’ve wanted to build concrete raised beds, but I live in a cold climate where concrete doesn’t hold up well. This setup might be the answer. Thanks!
I dig the torque washers. I work around all kinds of specialty hardware all day, and have never seen these before. Thumbs up!