Wainscoting Installation - Eliminating Texture with Hardboard (masonite, eucaboard)
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- Опубликовано: 18 окт 2024
- A very necessary step in a #wainscot #installation is the install of tempered hardboard to eliminate textured surfaces. I show you my process and theory in this video. Thanks for watching finish #carpentry TV!
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I've taught construction classes for many years and I would like to compliment you on several key points. 1. You don't include any music in your videos which is great. 2. It doesn't appear that you miss any key details, which is extremely important. 3. You mention how to attach every material. 4. You cover several mistakes that could be made by the viewers and warn them in advance. 5. You take special care to emphasize chronological layout, dimensions that are pleasing to the eye and the proper scale. 6. Your videos cover complicated tasks that ordinary consumers might not tackle on their own without the confidence you instill in them. You obviously enjoy your chosen career and it shows by the way you instruct. As an instructor and contractor myself, I can appreciate all the effort you put into your work and videos. Being a family man it's even more difficult to block out the time and be so gracious as to share your expertise with strangers. Kudos to you for being so unselfish. Best of luck and Happy New Year.
agreed!
This is a great series Richard and you have a nice calm way way of teaching. TWO THUMBS UP!
I’ve watch each video in this series thus far. Great info and easy to follow instructions. This will definitely help me to feel comfortable installing wainscot as a DYI er. Thanks so much and keep up your teaching!!!
You are an awesome teacher! You are very good at your trade and most of the time that means you forget to teach basics. You are very thorough and clear to anybody who watches. Thank you!!
I'm a carpenter by trade and love your videos. I am planning on panelling my stairwell and hallway and think the video's of yours is excellent. Am going to follow your instructions as best I can! Thanks joe
These wainscoting episodes are very timely. I have done a lot of wainscoting but I’m about to start two jobs with wainscoting. Very informative and great to learn new tricks.
You are a really great teacher. Please keep making these videos as they really help me out!!! Thank you!
Love this channel, taught me loads and two years ago i wainscot/panelled my hallway and two bedrooms purely because of the teaching and seeing builds right before your eyes . cannot wait for the next lot of videos coming especially adding more depth and using the tracksaw .
Keep the excellent videos coming , we massively appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge with us here in the uk .
You are my number 1 professional carpentry I know keep it up and tell you honeslty I learned a lot from you.
Your detailed information in every one of your videos kicks ass. You answer questions I didn’t know I had. 😂
Always wondered what the material was in the middle. And as always thanks for breaking it all down in easy to understand language.
Richard I am looking forward to this series. I am going to install this in my own home from this series. I have base and cased but never a wainscot. Thank you for your time and effort. It is a great sacrifice that I learn from everytime I puch play. God bless you!
Thanks again for your time you spend explaining the details. Once this series is done I plan to do my dining room. Great job!
I watch a lot of your videos. My son asks me how come you watching that man again. I asked him to sit and watch with me how you transform houses and make them look great. He's now interested in finished carpentry and would like to see how he can get started in learning the trade. He's 15 and wants to do this for a living.
This series is so amazing. I totally feel, being fairly handy, that I could handle doing this with confidence with acceptable results. Thanks for sharing this great info, Richard.
You do such a great job explaining your thought process and the reasons you do what you do as opposed to other methods. Great content always.
Thank you for sharing your amazing knowledge !! I always wondered how it was done ! Pretty exciting. Happy New Year !
Well explained. Easy to follow and provided useful information.
I can't thank you enough for making these videos! I have been watching for a long time, and you have helped me so much with all my projects. I like your idea of doing a series. It's much easier to learn in a series like this than trying to piece info. together from several different videos. Thanks and happy New Year!
Love the video series, I'm learning so much already!! Thank you so much for explaining the "why" behind the steps, it's so helpful to know why something is done! Also, thank you for NOT having loud music in the background while you talk like some other do, it's so much easier to hear you speak!! Great job, can't wait for the next video!!
just found your page and gotta say i loved your video. Awesome job. it was super helpful for a board and batten project i’m diying.
Happy New Year Richard and to your family. Yes I too have been following along with this series. Very good content and really appreciate the amount of time it must take to produce these videos. Much appreciated and will be looking forward to the ones upcoming!!!
I have been trying to find these answers! Thank you!
If you install your masonite to the top of your stiles, you can still run your top-cap against the wall without messing up your transition to the door casing. The masonite doesn't need to to go to the floor either, just enough to give a solid mounting for your baseboard. It's much faster and neater just to sheet the whole wall with masonite then stile on top of it.
Loving the Series. God Bless U and Yours.
It’s funny I have been asking this question in my mind for a long time. How do you get rid of the texture in wainscoting??? I thought I’m sure Richard has a video on it. And you did! And it was excellent! Thanks!
Happy New Year Richard. Thanks for the great content. I'm looking forward to the next video.
HAPPY HOLIDAYS your videos as ALWAYS are great great info kept it up
Great video series! I’m looking forward to watching the install.
Great job explaining details Richard
Really great series. Thank you for all you do!
Like using the 1/8” board for backing on entertainment systems(computers desks) & other types of “furniture”
Can’t wait to see the other videos, along w/ this project complete.....really peaked my curiosity w/ how you’re doing this project 👍🏻
Dude this just saved me a big hassle. I almost used the mdf board w slight texture.
First, I absolutely love your videos.
If I could make one production recommendation for 2020 for you: it might be time for you to invest in some more lights for your video setup. Even a decent on-camera LED panel light would show off your work better, and it would dramatically reduce the focus issues that you sometimes have. I think you do great work and produce outstanding content, but stepping up your video production game would make it even better.
Awesome content! I've been watching your videos for a while and was able to put up a very nice looking three piece crown the first time around thanks to your instruction. You could charge for these quality videos, just a thought. Semper Fi and happy new year!
using that board makes it much more durable then sheetrock as well. I've used luan in a Landry room remoldle for wainscoting, it painted nice and its holding up perfectly.
Thank you I really appreciate these videos working through the series, going to be installing Wanescot in my daughters house it will be all stained 12 foot ceilings I’m considering 4 foot high wainscot will be done with pine, question is on the door trim with the backstrap can that just be an added one bye that I ripped to the depth I need?
Appreciate all the info brother. Cant wait for the next one!
Another great episode, and thank you for answering the question I had back in part 1 about textured walls. I'm looking forward to seeing how you handle the outlets. Quick question, you mentioned shooting staples for the hardboard, what gauge staple do you recommend?
18 ga narrow crown
I like using laun in the field between the stiles. Laun shows the woodgrain after painting to give the appearance of solid wood. But then, I use pine for my rails and stiles as well for the same reason. Each of his own.
Thank you Richard keep the videos coming sir and Happy New years
Have you ever considered removing the drywall and installing 1/2" mdf? I have done projects where the wall were rough and created shadow boxes after removing the drywall and hid the transition from drywall to mdf behind the chair rail
MDF makes a lot of sense.
Eucalyptus is a type of gum tree mate. G’day from Australia 🇦🇺 👍🏼 (Tasmania actually)
Richard I am really enjoying the wainscot videos. Could you possibly do a video or two on how you would do an estimate on different jobs. Not necessarily giving away your pricing. The process would greatly help me out. -your neighbor in New Mexico
Hi Richard, great series. These types of videos, where you explain how to do things, are what got me watching your channel in the first place. I'm learning a lot. All the little details are great.
I have a question about coming up against a door casing. You say in your video that you have a back band casing, which looks nice by the way, but I imagine that you don't necessarily do this for all your customers. If you have a customer that wants to keep their existing door casing in place or they want a different design of door casing, and that your wainscot protrudes the casing a little due to building it out, you mentioned that you would have to back cut the top cap. Can you explain, in the next videos, what that means and how it would look? Also, what would you do with the stile and baseboard that hug the door casing? I would imagine that this would potentially also protrude the door casing.
Also, in my area, most homes have drywall. In newer homes, these are mostly nice and you can probably get away without using tempered hardboard. Would you agree with that? If some walls are a little wavy or joints aren't done very well or, in older homes, damaged, would you use tempered hardboard or would you fix the drywall or get them to fix it first before coming in to do your part?
Thanks again,
Chris
I’ve seen other videos where they actually rabbet the edges of the rails and stiles and slide the hardboard in, then install the top rail last, kind of the way one would build a shaker cabinet door.
Hello First, we would like to move in 4 years.
Installing Wainscoting in a bathroom with PVC styles all around instead of wood planks. The issue is with a few boys, the toilet tends to splatter requiring frequent cleaning of the walls. What should I use that won't absorb moisture? Love your YT channel
Thank you.
Hi Richard. I’m new to watching your videos and I’m learning so much. I would like to watch this project from the beginning and You mentioned a play list to view the previous 3 videos to this series but I don’t see it. Am I missing it or where can I find them. Thanks for the great videos and step by step instructions. You are very through in your teaching methods
Love the information and I have always believed that you can continue to learn from many people. I enjoy watching your videos, keep up the good work bro. Where do you get the CA Glue?
Thank you so much! What a great content
Happy New Year, Richard & (Shadow)!
A Shadow who´s also capable of scratching its own head ( 4:07 )
Anything permanent like this I’d hire a professional like the presenter. Worth it in my opinion
Hey I love your videos thanks for all the information. I’m trying to decide if I’m going to put my hardboard behind or inbetween my board and batten.. is it a pain getting the right size cuts on the hardboard to fit between each panel?
Hey Richard, I understand you are primarily teaching people how to build great pieces from the materials found at Home Depot. But I would add that obviously the hardboard isnt unique in its ability to be painted flat. Hardboard works great. But it's not the only material you can use. Any flat high quality approximately 1/4" sheet will work well. I personally usually use a 1/4 melamine although it requires a little more sanding to prep. I've been in certain situations where the added strength really played out to my advantage. A difficult outlet placement for example.
Love this series, keep it going please. just one question/comment, not sure if you haven't touched on it yet, or if I just missed it. How do you handle when you have electrical outlets and vents in the wall, without tearing big holes to rerun wires etc. Again love the series, thanks. Hal Brock Sr.
You said that the reason for the masonite is to eliminate "rough texture". Looking at the walls where you put up the masonite I can see that the walls are in fact rough, probably due to a textured paint that was used. However, my walls are all drywall with regular non-textured flat latex paint. Would using masonite really add anything to the wainscoting job or could I stay with the existing wall?
Came here for this question :) Our walls are super smooth. The only texture is from the paint roller. I'm considering skipping the Masonite but I feel like there is a reason I shouldn't.
In the video he did mention skim coating, which I think would be similar to very smooth drywall mud.
I'm currently installing some shaker style wood panelling in my stairwell and landing areas and am finding your videos very useful. I've been wondering what the best solution is for eliminating the texture in between my uprights especially as the walls in my old house are not the best. Using the hardboards would clearly give the best finish but will work out to be very expensive for the amount of area I'm covering. I had the idea of using a very high grade lining paper on the walls between uprights as this would still give a flat finish and wouldn't take as much away from the depth of the uprights. My only concern is that the finish wont look as good as using the boards. I was wondering if you had used lining paper in the past and what your thoughts might be on using it?
What is the difference between hardboard and wainscoting with the factory grooves in it, which normally comes in factory white? Have you ever used grooved wainscoting over texture before?
Hey man, love your videos. Used your tips to do a few projects around the house. I have skip trowel/knockdown textured walls. What is your method to get the tempered hardboard joints seamless if I wanted to do a big wall? Can I use just simple Drydex filler or will I need to use some joint compound for it?
great explanation! thank you!
My walls aren't textured yet but 3 coat tape and bed is completed, would this be a good time to wainscott and possibly eliminate hardboard from the process?
Thanks, Cal-okie 🔨
Quick note: the thinner Masonite doesn't lay flat easily, warps in humid climates...gotta use the thick stuff and, be sure to have the seam between pieces of it fall behind a stile...trust me, you cannot hide that joint if it lands in the panel area.
Happy New Year Richard from the south of you... about 140 miles
Why not stop the Masonite board at the same height as the vertical styles? Then the horizontal caps will stay flush to the wall and true to your door trim?
How do you cover the seam where two boards meet and you don’t have paneling on top?
happy new year Rich!
What do you prefer to use MDF, poplar or pine?
If you were going to put full sheets, and the boards over, would you suggest at that point using the 1/8"? (to keep it thinner?)?
I have 2 questions. The way you're doing it, you mentioned losing depth to your styles (making them to seem 1/2 in) and you're going to be building out the styles and rails using pocket holes. My question is why not cut a rabbit in the styles and rails instead of just cutting the board to fit in between? If I'm not mistaken ( I could be as I watch a lot of wood working/carpentry videos), but I thought I saw you do wainscoting with tongue and groove. Why not do it this way or the rabbit way? Just curious. Great video as always man.
Is hardboard better to use over mdf? The 1x2 cap should still come flush with the casing whether you install individual panels or sheet entire wall length, but would also have to consider baseboard thickness. 99.9% of walls where I live are "smooth"
Do you have any recommendations for where to source 3/16" hardboard? I have been able to find tons of the 1/8" stuff in the Houston area.
Happy New Year. Thank you for another great year of videos I will be looking forward to this new year when you do the videos on the paint sprayer because I'm considering to buy one of those units. Peace brother
What if I am not doing an entire room but just one wall. How do I address that at the corner if I have a bullnose? One side with wainscot the other without?
Happy New Year and great series! I get the idea of using the panels between the stiles on the wall next to the door casing. Could you use the masonite full sheets behind the stiles on the long walls, or would the difference in reveal be noticeable. Just seems easier than cutting each panel exact?
Thank You.
Sir, could you give me an idea of how to attach the wainscot to lath and plaster walls. I have a historical house from the 1920's and would like to put wainscot in my reading room. Thank you
Happy New Years Richard. Since you trimmed your door with the 1x2 back bend, 1 1/2" total clearance from the face of the wall, and you have 1/4" eucaboard plus 3/4" stiles (1" if one behind the other), wouldn't the face of the stile be not proud of your back bend trim? I am probably overlooking something. LOL
I'm just starting out and and I live in Dallas so we have textured walls🤦🏾♀️. Is it possible to use hardboard on the entire wall? If so, how do eliminate the seams between the pieces?
Do you just cover the whole wall with this board if I want to cover the entire wall floor to ceiling with wainscot?
What do you recommend for primer on the paneling?
Thanks For sharing HAPPY NEW YEAR 🎊 2020
I had a client install that, in his laundry room (bottom half of the wall.) This was after I skimmed almost every wall and ceiling in the house. His has a glossy surface, perfect for splashing stuff on, in a dirty environment. I still prefer the skim-coat, though, personally.
Thanks again...take care.
Could the tempered hardboard be used to cover popcorn ceilings? I have 3000 sq ft of popcorn and the idea of having it scraped & skim-coated makes me want to cry.
If the walls are already smooth, do you think masonite is necessary? My concern is building out too far for receptacles and window casing. (Hoping casing transitions are addressed in a future video).
If it's a really good finish you don't need this, but it's hard to find walls that good, albeit your standards/budget might not require a perfect finish. Matt risinger has a video on his channel a few weeks back where he had his guys do a level 5 drywall finish and achieved some really clean looking wainscotting with just the drywall and a glossier paint
I'm fitting this in the uk.
12mm mdf is the thickness I use. Am I doing it right?.
Thanks
Ken. Uk
What primer do you recommend on Masonite? Will BIN work?
What about rabbit cuts on the back of your 1 X 4 to accept the eucaboard?
You'll still loose depth from the outer face of the rails/stiles to the outer face of the panels. Sounds like he's planning to use a molding profile inside of the rails/stiles to create a greater relief from the panel face
Eucalyptus is a tree. Very dense and hard. Unfortunately the grain is very twisted making it unstable and unsuitable for almost everything except firewood. It was my preferred firewood in So Cal because it burned hot and long leaving little ash behind.
Home Depot it’s known as eucalyptus board. They had no idea what i was first talking about lol
Most of our houses are plastered finish smooth as hell up here on cape cod or in the northeast period .....ny builders go around with a huge 2000 watt light and look at every imperfection in the wall super picky so u dont need that 3/16 tempered hardboard at all way more labor way more material fuck that seriously even if u had to compound and durabond and sand those lower areas where the wainscoting is going it's probably less on everyone with the same end result
Have you got your Diamondback tool belt yet? I would to see what you think of it!
Can u use that board for bathrooms?
Could you do the actual install as you explain each step/phase
So if my walls are new and smooth do I need the Masonite?
What size staples do you recommend for installing the eucaboard in between the top,bottom and stiles? I will have to install the panel this way because my door trim is 9/16".
Great video, I will like to see the installation of the materials while you explained 👍🏼
Richard in a little confused, I thought that your were routing a rebate/groove in your Stiles/ upright dividing timbers but your talk of losing depth leads me to think differently could you clarify please mate? 🙂
So my local big box store sells tempered hardboard in 1/8” and 1/4”, but the 1/8” has an actual thickness of 3/16”. Would you suggest I use that over the 1/4” (actual thickness of 7/32”)?
I’m assuming the answer is yes, but curious if this changes anything in your opinion (or others, you are all welcome to advise). Thanks in advance!
What type and size staples for the hardboard?