Trying to get the right angle with an open end wrench on the lock nut can be difficult to say the least. I have found a 12 point flare nut wrench works awesome to tighten the lock nut on the adjuster bolts. Twelve points gives you more angle options for the wrench when working through the rail window. If you don't want to buy a 12-point flare nut wrench you can make one out of a box end wrench you don't care about. Simply cut a slot in the box end wide enough to go over the adjuster bolt. It won't have as much strength against spreading open as a true flare nut wrench but should still be enough.
Hey guys great tech tips. Some other videos you should do is on backcountry throttle cable fixes, towing a sled that would run, and replacing belts or spark plugs. I think those are good skills to know!!!
love my extrovert drivers i put on my '15 800 pro rmk. my track droops more than an inch and it just never slips. i was adjusting my tension all the time with stock drivers.
Should run it as loose as possible. Run it loose til it ratchets and tighten a little. You give up hp if its too tight, not to mention wear and tear...
No, older arctic Cats call for 2” of sag with no weight! Insanely loose. This spec Chris is showing is for Polaris long track sleds as far back as the IQ chassis from 06 and up. I assume Ski-doo has their own spec as well.
For anyone experienced that sees this comment tell me what you think. I have a 2020 rmk 163, took it out on the first ride and set track tension, and alignment. A few rides later i noticed the track is much closer to the upper right idler wheel than the left one. A good quarter inch id say. Id have to have the track out of alignment to make that gap even between the two top idlers. Is this a factory defect, is it okay, or did i tweak the tunnel?
Guarantee they don't actually follow that procedure. Anybody who spends as much time around sleds as they do can just check it with their fingers and tell if it needs adjustment...
Terrible instructions. No mention on whether this applies specifically to his make and model or to various other sleds. Bottom line it’s very simple to look in your manual and do exactly what it says.
Trying to get the right angle with an open end wrench on the lock nut can be difficult to say the least. I have found a 12 point flare nut wrench works awesome to tighten the lock nut on the adjuster bolts. Twelve points gives you more angle options for the wrench when working through the rail window. If you don't want to buy a 12-point flare nut wrench you can make one out of a box end wrench you don't care about. Simply cut a slot in the box end wide enough to go over the adjuster bolt. It won't have as much strength against spreading open as a true flare nut wrench but should still be enough.
Hey guys great tech tips. Some other videos you should do is on backcountry throttle cable fixes, towing a sled that would run, and replacing belts or spark plugs. I think those are good skills to know!!!
love my extrovert drivers i put on my '15 800 pro rmk. my track droops more than an inch and it just never slips. i was adjusting my tension all the time with stock drivers.
Should run it as loose as possible. Run it loose til it ratchets and tighten a little. You give up hp if its too tight, not to mention wear and tear...
Thank you 🙏
Great info man!
Those lucky enough to ride a new sled!!! Those lucky enough to be riding!!! Still waiting for snow here......hello... winter???
Really nice video, can you do one on checking your belt deflection?
We have a video that covers this.
Getting famous off of comments day 228, so I can live the dream, live every day like it’s your last🤙🤙
Hey Chris, is that track tension go for Skidoo sleds also or just Polaris?
On skidoo best to follow their manufacturers specs
Hey everyone I just bought a 21 khaos with the 2.75 paddle and when I weelie it rubs how can I fix this is my track to loose
Does the distance from the rear idler change per track length? My sled is a 146, not a 165 or 155
In My SKS 146
40cm from the rear axel, 4,5 kg, 22-26 mm gap.
My sks 850 146 ratcheting bad at polaris spec 7/8 had to tighten to 1/2
Is there a general tension any track should be set to no matter the brand?
No, older arctic Cats call for 2” of sag with no weight! Insanely loose. This spec Chris is showing is for Polaris long track sleds as far back as the IQ chassis from 06 and up. I assume Ski-doo has their own spec as well.
Is it the same measurements for a ski-doo summit sled?
No. Polaris Axys only.
This spec Chris is showing is for Polaris long track sleds as far back as the IQ chassis from 06 and up. I assume Ski-doo has their own spec.
For anyone experienced that sees this comment tell me what you think. I have a 2020 rmk 163, took it out on the first ride and set track tension, and alignment. A few rides later i noticed the track is much closer to the upper right idler wheel than the left one. A good quarter inch id say. Id have to have the track out of alignment to make that gap even between the two top idlers. Is this a factory defect, is it okay, or did i tweak the tunnel?
Did you ever find an answer to this. Having the same issue on my 2020 switchback assault.
2021 155 3" im getting a lot of track noise... my track is tensioned to specs and noticeably louder then everyone else's i ride with.?
Probably because its a 3" lol
So what do u suggest for sag on an older sled? As I don’t have a manual for it.
Guarantee they don't actually follow that procedure. Anybody who spends as much time around sleds as they do can just check it with their fingers and tell if it needs adjustment...
Is this a good tension for all sled I have an older 03 arctic cat
No. Polaris Axys only.
what model cat is it ?
also studded or non studs?
i do 20 lbs and measured at about 2.25-2.5" of gap between the track and the hyfax at midspan on my 04 mountain cat 900
Terrible instructions. No mention on whether this applies specifically to his make and model or to various other sleds. Bottom line it’s very simple to look in your manual and do exactly what it says.