OK - I wimped out. Had a tech quote me $5-600 completed job with parts. Great video but man, a lot of cables, connectors, etc. You did a great job making it look pretty straightforward. Appreciate the post. Am retired but didn't want to tackle this one. Used to work on cars way back in the day before emissions and computer controls. Thx again! BTW - My 99 RX300 has 260k and keeps on truckin!
This is one of the best repair videos I've ever seen. Exceptional camera work considering the complexity of the job. Because you saved me a lot of headache I became a sub. If you do similar repair videos, I guarantee you your sub count will greatly increase. There is a lot of knowledge out there but too many lame videos. You took the time to detail a complete chronology of a pain-in-the-ass job. Keep up the good work.👍
This is a great video! It allowed me to swap the sensors out and use the video as a step by step guide perfectly. I set up my laptop rig on my tool cart and followed each step as it was shown. Not one thing out of place. Thank you so much for sharing this. I can't even imagine how much trouble it saved me.
@@AutoDrdiy Thanks for making the video and going over the details. Appreciate it. The only concern is regarding buying new sensors, how do we know which sensors are good based on brand name/oem or should be only purchase from Lexus (too pricy). I had already changed by Knock sensors with Lexus while it was 95K and now it is only 148K. Finally you replaced these sensors 2 yrs ago, are those sensors still working and what was the brand you purchased. Appreciate your help. Thank You Sir.
@@mattd8132 It is doing good, oddly, I just got off the phone with the owner of the Lexus. He is asking about an estimate, for timing chains on a GMC suv, he owns as well. But I went to ebay, and bought the oem sensors, and harness's, still in the dealerships sealed bags. For a 5th of the price, aftermarket wanted for them. I would only use dealer ones, cause it is to much trouble, to replace them, every year or 2. The vvt solenoids got replaced with aftermarkets, 3 yrs ago, no issues yet. Thanks for watching
@@AutoDrdiy Would you happen to recall the details of your eBay purchase for this? The exact "seller", was it a kit or individual purchases, etc.? I saw the name DENSO on the knock sensor in your video. I need to do this on my 2002 Lexus RX300 and since you had such a good experience, I'd like to try and get the same. Thanks.
Good video and thanks for doing the heavy lifting for us. I would recommend removing the windshield wipers and the cowl. Just three cap nuts on the wipers and ten 10 mm small bolts and plastic retainers to remove in order to remove the cowl. Takes 10 minutes to save lots of time later and gives better access to that pesky 14mm bolt behind the intake on the firewall and the 12 mm bolt behind the throttle body that holds the TB to the support post. I had to buy a quarter inch low profile ratchet and still struggled to get this out. Horrible design so with all the work decided to spend the $400 at Bell Lexus to buy 2 new OEM knock sensors and the harness. No way I want to do this job again especially with the time consuming part to prep the intake and cylinder head gasket mating surfaces while using extreme care to limit the amount of dirt that falls into the cylinder heads. Good idea like said below to do the valve covers and spark plugs while you have it torn down. And great to have a vehicle again that is not at 4000 rpms at 60 mph. The limp mode did not start until both knock sensors failed with the P0325 (Knock Sensor 1 Circuit), P0330 (Knock Sensor 2 Circuit) codes. I suppose it could have been the failed harness too. These RX300s will run forever, but require too much work IMO.
If the problem is just the knock sensor harness, can that be replaced without so much disassembly? I would like to try that first as my problem seems to be humidity and rough road related. Sometimes the check lights come and stay on for months or come right back on when cleared and then other times it goes for many months with no check lights. Seems like the sensor(s) would be more likely to stay "failed" so wanted to try just the harness first. What are your thoughts?
Hey look! It's the cousin to the Northstar engine! First time I dug into one of these took me all day. I had to replace the bypass hose and did the spark plugs while I was in there. There's so much "while I'm in there" maintenance that you can do when you take the air intake manifold and plenum off, it's stupid. Great vid!
Couldn’t have done this without your video. Those bolts in the back of the intake are ridiculous. Make sure you don’t have the ( Global Code [P0765] Shift Solid D. ) This one fix it if that’s the case.
The plenum removal is a job alright with the amount of growing wires. Good idea to do the valve cover gasket, plugs, and coils if the engine has done 200k+.
Thank you for your video How did you end up getting that bolt off the back of the upper intake? Did you use a stubby wrench. Do you think that backing out the studs would be worthwhile or easier?
My 2000 RX300 has knock and oxygen sensor error codes. Mechanic wants way too much labor cost so I may try it myself. Just too many bolts and hoses are making me nervous.
Question. I have a 2003 RX300. When I start everything runs great until I get up to operating temperature. After the engine is at operating when I come to a stoplight with my foot on the brake and the car in drive the tachometer bounces from 950 RPMs down to 450 and back up to 950 RPMs. I am showing three separate codes. Which one is causing this problem. P0174 fuel system too lean bank to 2... P0020 cam position a circuit b2....or... P0330 knock sensor to circuit fault b2?
Just did this task. So much easier to access after doing the task, especailly my back bolts where not there. I saw the wire had a knick in it so took a gamble with the same original sensor and just changed the harness. Drove the vehicle and unfortunately light came back on so I swapped the sensor with a after market one that said denso but not even sure it is a denso cause of how cheap I paid. So far the light is off after 5 miles of driving. I will drive again tomorrow to see if it hopefully stays off. I was thinking of replacing the intake gaskets but i reused them because some after market ones I looked at and even beck and armly one I saw seemed to be cheaper material. Even the beck one had a 4 star rating but also had a picture of the gasket coming apart so I figured the material is different and if I do want to replace a gasket better go with oe material. I will drive it and pray that this light stays off. Drives like a dream just would hate for something to go wrong. Thanks for your video. I will also be replacing the coolant with pink cause right now it is orange but I want to make sure I dont have to drain it again and no leaks. To drain this coolant and refill is pretty basic right just check the fluid?
Always use OEM, gaskets on it. And draining and refill of coolant is fairly straight-forward. After filling, run engine with heater on high, between idle and and 10 second, 2500 rpm bursts, until sustained heat is felt, coming from hvac. It should have heat within 3 mins, if still cold, check coolant level, replace cap,, and loosen any air bleed screws, until coolant flows free. Thanks for watching.
I just have a coute for a knock sensor for 1200 I need a knock sensor Bank 1 does any know which Side is Bank 1 mif is the back or the front next to the radiator thank you
I replaced my knock sensors but the code is still on any ideas on what else I can troubleshoot? I think I read somewhere that it could be the oxygen sensor have you heard that?
The harnesses to the sensors should have been replaced as well. You can switch the plugins over bellhousing, and see if code moves to other bank, if just a code is setting. There was something about the o2 sensors and the engine harness going bad, causing several issues. May try and unplug each sensor and see if it sets knock sensor code. Always use oem sensors as well, and their pigtails. With a pinout of ecm, can measure resistance of each knock sensor wire. Thanks for watching
i have an 02 lexus rx300 awd and im having trouble figuring out which sensors i need for which banks. specificly bank1 sensor 2 and bank 2 sensor 1. any help you can provide would be great. o2 sensors can be exspensive exspecialy if you buy the wrong ones.
Google what side is bank on your specific vehicle...I'm thinking usually bank 1 is left and bank 2 is driver side the second number is 1 for pre cat and 2 for after cat 02 sensor...the after cat is the last 02 sensor on each bank that meters what is being put out into the atmosphere! Extra info:Also if you have I engine non V you might just have 1 bank
Also most mechanics will tell you to replace all 02 sensors while your at it. Extra info if you plan to do it yourself you can rent the tool at your local parts store make sure you get the full kit that has the long socket and the special socket and get you a good ramp for about $60 and some penetrating spray.
help!! i did a knock sensor hack temp. but eventually i got the oem sensor and harness replaced at dealer w/intake plenum gaskets. and it was fine for a couple monts and now im getting p330 and the gode keeps coming back... what else would cause this code? i use 87 regular as the vehicle allows it per the manual(2000 RX300),,, i replaced maf sensor with oem a year ago btw... would a valve cover gasket leak cause this? what else can i chec!! heelpppppp
@@AutoDrdiy I will take it to them, but something similar happened when I did my knock sensor bypasshack it worked for a month or about 6 weeks and then came back, could a vacuum leak caused this? Because it saying just 330. and also i always out regular 87 fuel in, Are any of these contributing factors
@@JDMHaze No, actually, that code is for bank 2, not seeing enough engine noise, for more than 10 seconds. Which leads computer to interpret this as a damaged sensor. And it could be a bad sensor, wiring, or connections between ecm and sensor. Also if there is moisture intrusion, either at, or on, any connections on this circuit, could cause a resistance issue. Or the computer has a problem. Not that I recommend, that a non pro do this, but with a wiring diagram in hand,, I would unplug both sensors, and reverse jumper them. So that bank 1 is on the bank 2 ecm connection, and vise-versa. If the code changes to the opposite bank, then prob is likely the sensor, or harness, past where it was jumped, to sensor. The connector is at the end of the intake. Also, I may, unhook battery, and unplug ecm terminals, carefully, look for corrosion, etc, and plug it back in.
@@AutoDrdiy Perhaps the dealer used aftermarket sensors to increase the profit on the job. Or maybe the sensors were counterfeit. From what I've heard you should only put original OEM sensors in there.
@@joepearlzz8504 When the knock sensor code sets (P0330 or P0325) and the check engine light comes on the engine computer goes into limp home mode to protect the engine from excessive engine knock. Two things happen. The transmission will not go into overdrive. The highest it will go is third gear. As such the engine RPM's will be much higher than usual especially on the highway. Also, the computer will retard the timing so the engine will be very sluggish. You can keep resetting the codes and the engine will run fine until the code sets again. Sometimes the code will not set again for a considerable length of time. This will buy you some time until the sensors and harness are replaced.
@@joepearlzz8504 When the knock sensor code comes up the transmission will lock out of overdrive and go into third gear and the spark timing gets retarded. This is to protect the engine from damage caused by engine knock while the knock sensors are out of commission. Once the knock sensors and harness are replaced and the code is cleared overdrive will work again and the spark timing will go back to normal.
OK - I wimped out. Had a tech quote me $5-600 completed job with parts. Great video but man, a lot of cables, connectors, etc. You did a great job making it look pretty straightforward. Appreciate the post. Am retired but didn't want to tackle this one. Used to work on cars way back in the day before emissions and computer controls. Thx again! BTW - My 99 RX300 has 260k and keeps on truckin!
This is one of the best repair videos I've ever seen. Exceptional camera work considering the complexity of the job. Because you saved me a lot of headache I became a sub. If you do similar repair videos, I guarantee you your sub count will greatly increase. There is a lot of knowledge out there but too many lame videos. You took the time to detail a complete chronology of a pain-in-the-ass job. Keep up the good work.👍
Thanks for watching
This is a great video! It allowed me to swap the sensors out and use the video as a step by step guide perfectly. I set up my laptop rig on my tool cart and followed each step as it was shown. Not one thing out of place. Thank you so much for sharing this. I can't even imagine how much trouble it saved me.
Thanks for watching
@@AutoDrdiy Thanks for making the video and going over the details. Appreciate it. The only concern is regarding buying new sensors, how do we know which sensors are good based on brand name/oem or should be only purchase from Lexus (too pricy). I had already changed by Knock sensors with Lexus while it was 95K and now it is only 148K. Finally you replaced these sensors 2 yrs ago, are those sensors still working and what was the brand you purchased. Appreciate your help. Thank You Sir.
@@mattd8132 It is doing good, oddly, I just got off the phone with the owner of the Lexus. He is asking about an estimate, for timing chains on a GMC suv, he owns as well. But I went to ebay, and bought the oem sensors, and harness's, still in the dealerships sealed bags. For a 5th of the price, aftermarket wanted for them. I would only use dealer ones, cause it is to much trouble, to replace them, every year or 2. The vvt solenoids got replaced with aftermarkets, 3 yrs ago, no issues yet. Thanks for watching
@@AutoDrdiy Would you happen to recall the details of your eBay purchase for this? The exact "seller", was it a kit or individual purchases, etc.? I saw the name DENSO on the knock sensor in your video. I need to do this on my 2002 Lexus RX300 and since you had such a good experience, I'd like to try and get the same. Thanks.
You're a badass for taking the time to produce this thorough video.
Thanks for watching
Good video and thanks for doing the heavy lifting for us. I would recommend removing the windshield wipers and the cowl. Just three cap nuts on the wipers and ten 10 mm small bolts and plastic retainers to remove in order to remove the cowl. Takes 10 minutes to save lots of time later and gives better access to that pesky 14mm bolt behind the intake on the firewall and the 12 mm bolt behind the throttle body that holds the TB to the support post. I had to buy a quarter inch low profile ratchet and still struggled to get this out. Horrible design so with all the work decided to spend the $400 at Bell Lexus to buy 2 new OEM knock sensors and the harness. No way I want to do this job again especially with the time consuming part to prep the intake and cylinder head gasket mating surfaces while using extreme care to limit the amount of dirt that falls into the cylinder heads. Good idea like said below to do the valve covers and spark plugs while you have it torn down. And great to have a vehicle again that is not at 4000 rpms at 60 mph. The limp mode did not start until both knock sensors failed with the P0325 (Knock Sensor 1 Circuit), P0330 (Knock Sensor 2 Circuit) codes. I suppose it could have been the failed harness too. These RX300s will run forever, but require too much work IMO.
If the problem is just the knock sensor harness, can that be replaced without so much disassembly? I would like to try that first as my problem seems to be humidity and rough road related. Sometimes the check lights come and stay on for months or come right back on when cleared and then other times it goes for many months with no check lights. Seems like the sensor(s) would be more likely to stay "failed" so wanted to try just the harness first. What are your thoughts?
I wish I would’ve read this first
Hey look! It's the cousin to the Northstar engine!
First time I dug into one of these took me all day. I had to replace the bypass hose and did the spark plugs while I was in there. There's so much "while I'm in there" maintenance that you can do when you take the air intake manifold and plenum off, it's stupid. Great vid!
Thanks for watching
Great job and thanks for sharing your knowledge. I just might attempt to some of my repairs on my 2002 Lexus RX300. Thanks again
Thanks for watching
Couldn’t have done this without your video. Those bolts in the back of the intake are ridiculous. Make sure you don’t have the ( Global Code [P0765] Shift Solid D. )
This one fix it if that’s the case.
The plenum removal is a job alright with the amount of growing wires. Good idea to do the valve cover gasket, plugs, and coils if the engine has done 200k+.
Thank you for your video
How did you end up getting that bolt off the back of the upper intake? Did you use a stubby wrench. Do you think that backing out the studs would be worthwhile or easier?
My 2000 RX300 has knock and oxygen sensor error codes.
Mechanic wants way too much labor cost so I may try it myself.
Just too many bolts and hoses are making me nervous.
Question. I have a 2003 RX300. When I start everything runs great until I get up to operating temperature. After the engine is at operating when I come to a stoplight with my foot on the brake and the car in drive the tachometer bounces from 950 RPMs down to 450 and back up to 950 RPMs. I am showing three separate codes. Which one is causing this problem. P0174 fuel system too lean bank to 2... P0020 cam position a circuit b2....or... P0330 knock sensor to circuit fault b2?
THANK YOU UR AWESOME HELPING PEOPLE OUT
Thanks for watching
Your video is bad ass man keep doing your thing just subscribed I have a 2000 Lexus RX 300 that needs a little work
Thanks for watching
Great video, Thanks.
Thanks for watching
I wish I could get some tips. I cant get the leverage to break loose the impossible 14 mm bolt on the plenum bracket.
Just did this task. So much easier to access after doing the task, especailly my back bolts where not there. I saw the wire had a knick in it so took a gamble with the same original sensor and just changed the harness. Drove the vehicle and unfortunately light came back on so I swapped the sensor with a after market one that said denso but not even sure it is a denso cause of how cheap I paid. So far the light is off after 5 miles of driving. I will drive again tomorrow to see if it hopefully stays off. I was thinking of replacing the intake gaskets but i reused them because some after market ones I looked at and even beck and armly one I saw seemed to be cheaper material. Even the beck one had a 4 star rating but also had a picture of the gasket coming apart so I figured the material is different and if I do want to replace a gasket better go with oe material. I will drive it and pray that this light stays off. Drives like a dream just would hate for something to go wrong. Thanks for your video. I will also be replacing the coolant with pink cause right now it is orange but I want to make sure I dont have to drain it again and no leaks. To drain this coolant and refill is pretty basic right just check the fluid?
Always use OEM, gaskets on it. And draining and refill of coolant is fairly straight-forward. After filling, run engine with heater on high, between idle and and 10 second, 2500 rpm bursts, until sustained heat is felt, coming from hvac. It should have heat within 3 mins, if still cold, check coolant level, replace cap,, and loosen any air bleed screws, until coolant flows free. Thanks for watching.
I just have a coute for a knock sensor for 1200 I need a knock sensor Bank 1 does any know which Side is Bank 1 mif is the back or the front next to the radiator thank you
Which side is bank 2 ? Is it back in the back right of engine bay ?
Great video
Thanks for watching
Might as well replace the whole deal when you got it open, pain of a job to do multiple times.
actually after doing it the first time took less than an hour the next time
How much does this job cost I need 2 knock senors plus new harness with spark plugs manifold gaskets intake plenum gaskets
How many knock sensors does the engine use?
2
@26:30, that 12 gauge shot shell should fix any problem :-D
Hello. I have a 2000 Lexus RX300. Do they come with Denso knock sensors? I’m trying to figure out what brand knock sensors to purchase. Thanks!
As far as know they do, I found them on Ebay, for a fraction of even aftermarket price. Thanks for watching
Big question. what gaskets did you change?
Just the intake and throttle body gaskets
I replaced my knock sensors but the code is still on any ideas on what else I can troubleshoot? I think I read somewhere that it could be the oxygen sensor have you heard that?
The harnesses to the sensors should have been replaced as well. You can switch the plugins over bellhousing, and see if code moves to other bank, if just a code is setting. There was something about the o2 sensors and the engine harness going bad, causing several issues. May try and unplug each sensor and see if it sets knock sensor code. Always use oem sensors as well, and their pigtails. With a pinout of ecm, can measure resistance of each knock sensor wire. Thanks for watching
That’s super helpful thank you so much. Great video by the way
i have an 02 lexus rx300 awd and im having trouble figuring out which sensors i need for which banks. specificly bank1 sensor 2 and bank 2 sensor 1. any help you can provide would be great. o2 sensors can be exspensive exspecialy if you buy the wrong ones.
Google what side is bank on your specific vehicle...I'm thinking usually bank 1 is left and bank 2 is driver side the second number is 1 for pre cat and 2 for after cat 02 sensor...the after cat is the last 02 sensor on each bank that meters what is being put out into the atmosphere! Extra info:Also if you have I engine non V you might just have 1 bank
Also most mechanics will tell you to replace all 02 sensors while your at it. Extra info if you plan to do it yourself you can rent the tool at your local parts store make sure you get the full kit that has the long socket and the special socket and get you a good ramp for about $60 and some penetrating spray.
help!! i did a knock sensor hack temp. but eventually i got the oem sensor and harness replaced at dealer w/intake plenum gaskets. and it was fine for a couple monts and now im getting p330 and the gode keeps coming back... what else would cause this code? i use 87 regular as the vehicle allows it per the manual(2000 RX300),,, i replaced maf sensor with oem a year ago btw... would a valve cover gasket leak cause this? what else can i chec!! heelpppppp
The rest of the engine harness, to ecm. Also, the dealership, should have put some kind of a warranty, on their repair. Thanks for watching
@@AutoDrdiy I will take it to them, but something similar happened when I did my knock sensor bypasshack it worked for a month or about 6 weeks and then came back, could a vacuum leak caused this? Because it saying just 330. and also i always out regular 87 fuel in, Are any of these contributing factors
@@JDMHaze No, actually, that code is for bank 2, not seeing enough engine noise, for more than 10 seconds. Which leads computer to interpret this as a damaged sensor. And it could be a bad sensor, wiring, or connections between ecm and sensor. Also if there is moisture intrusion, either at, or on, any connections on this circuit, could cause a resistance issue. Or the computer has a problem. Not that I recommend, that a non pro do this, but with a wiring diagram in hand,, I would unplug both sensors, and reverse jumper them. So that bank 1 is on the bank 2 ecm connection, and vise-versa. If the code changes to the opposite bank, then prob is likely the sensor, or harness, past where it was jumped, to sensor. The connector is at the end of the intake. Also, I may, unhook battery, and unplug ecm terminals, carefully, look for corrosion, etc, and plug it back in.
@@AutoDrdiy Perhaps the dealer used aftermarket sensors to increase the profit on the job. Or maybe the sensors were counterfeit. From what I've heard you should only put original OEM sensors in there.
Can carbon build up trip this knock sensor code?
Not this code, as it is a circuit code, not an engine knock code.
@@AutoDrdiy
Got it. Thanks. These sensors are pricey I have similar mileage 238,500 on a 2000 ES300.
@@CP-pb3pj whats symptoms do you have besides check engine light
@@joepearlzz8504 When the knock sensor code sets (P0330 or P0325) and the check engine light comes on the engine computer goes into limp home mode to protect the engine from excessive engine knock. Two things happen. The transmission will not go into overdrive. The highest it will go is third gear. As such the engine RPM's will be much higher than usual especially on the highway. Also, the computer will retard the timing so the engine will be very sluggish. You can keep resetting the codes and the engine will run fine until the code sets again. Sometimes the code will not set again for a considerable length of time. This will buy you some time until the sensors and harness are replaced.
Is it bank 2 as well?
It is best to change both bank sensors, and their harness
@@AutoDrdiy Wouldn't it be a good idea to replace the heater hose down in there as well?
@@joevignolor4u949 With the age that's on it now? Sure. Thanks for watching
Funny. I've owned 2 lexuses, and they both threw the knock sensor code at 150K miles.
mine just hit 150 and did the same!!
What symptoms did you have besides check engine light
What symptoms did you have besides check engine light?
@@joepearlzz8504 When the knock sensor code comes up the transmission will lock out of overdrive and go into third gear and the spark timing gets retarded. This is to protect the engine from damage caused by engine knock while the knock sensors are out of commission. Once the knock sensors and harness are replaced and the code is cleared overdrive will work again and the spark timing will go back to normal.
Hinged Rachet ain't working. Looking for my 14 stubby... fml
Ty btw
Thanks for watching
P1153 code on lexus rx300 how to fix?
This is the vid I’ve been looking for good zer 🫡
Very informative. Thank yiuv
Thanks for watching