Thanks for checking it out, glad you liked it and hope it was helpful! Here is a link for the Rev A Shelf lift. You can also find any product I used at the Amazon link in the video description: amzn.to/3OvZPf2
As an old guy who has made too many to count laminate tops, always keep a ketchup bottle of acetone handy so when this happens squirt acetone under the laminate and a couple seconds later you can start pulling laminate back up. If you plan on taking all off just keep squirting and slowly lifting
Great video. Very natural voice over . Good videography. Lots of good tips and thoughts. I was expecting a small channel video and was pleasantly surprised to find a very professional video with a good balance of useful wisdom.
I really appreciate the thoughts behind the video. I am downsizing from a 30x30 workspace to a 12x30 workspace, and it has really thrown me to try and rethink it to a usable enjoyable space instead of just a storage area. I mostly build items for the farm, chickens, and our market garden, but I have dreams of building mission/arts and craft style furniture for myself. But first i have to build out my old space to a veggie pack room, a walk-in cooler, and a farm store and tables and displays.
I appreciate the non-cookie cutter approach. I feel like a lot of miter stations on RUclips are designed to be modular to sell plans or are not fully thought through. Glorified kitchen cabinets when the space doesn’t need to be that way
I realize this is an older video, but I have alternate methods for separating the contact cement immediately prior to bonding. Try sheets of cardboard, thin mdf, 1/4" plywood, or plastic sheeting instead of wood scraps, or tubing. You can pull the whole sheet/length of material along as your bringing the glued surfaces together. Even heavily warped laminate will not be able to touch the surface. The contact cement should not be tacky to the touch when ready for bonding, so the materials should slide easily between the laminate and bonding material.
1st time I've seen those flip stops. I'll be building a miter station as one of my next build projects. I just moved into our new house that has a 14'x32.5' woodworking shop. Problem right now is I have absolutely nothing on the walls, and zero cabinets. I had all my stuff on the floor, not ideal, so I bought a couple of shelves at Costco to put them on (they'll go in the attic for storage shelves later). I'm building an outfeed/assembly table right now, and then on to my miter table. It will be going across the entire 14' on the end of the room, but won't have any storage under it. The under side is a dog run because I've got 2 dog doors in the room. One from the garage, and the other outside. I'll be putting hog fence on the front of the miter station bench to keep the dogs under the bench and out of the shop. Love the idea of a laminated top. I did one of those for the router station I built so I'm pretty sure I can handle it for the miter station. What is the rail system with the stops you used? I checked your site but didn't see it there. Love those stops that tuck out of the way when not in use. Thanks for sharing.
Really cool idea with the dog run underneath! I just added them to the store, but here is the link to them: amzn.to/3wcio1h If you go to the Woodpeckers site, they also sell the stops themselves, as well as the adhesive measuring tape. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video! I think showing the mistakes is as important as the successes. I can only assume ( and hope) that the Miter Saw and top are completely removable. As a Master Electrician of (nearly) 30 yrs. this is an FYI.. One of the main things that the NEC 110.26 specifies is that ALL ELECTRICAL PANELS must have enough room around them that someone working on the equipment will have the room to safely access everything they need. This is necessary for all types of work including examination of the electrical panel, making adjustments to the electrical panel, servicing the electrical panel, and of course, performing maintenance on the electrical panel. More to the point... no standing "Non-movable" equipment, or structures may be installed within 36 inches to the front of the panel. 😁
This is a great upgrade video~! I have Marc's plan for this station as well and am hoping to get started on it soon. Will definitely incorporate some of your changes, like the top & the shelf mod for my own spindle sander. Excellent idea~! Thanks for sharing...
Awesome video with some really great ideas. Been trying to figure out how to display and actually use my spindle sander and even my small jointer and be able to still use the span for the miter saw, you checked all the boxes. So glad I found your video. Exactly what I need to implement into my shop cabinet project. Went a head and smashed the money button for you.
Organizing my shop is a constant lately. I have to make what I got work as I have a 10 x 16 portable building lofted gambrel barn shed. My latest shop tour doesn't even reflect what it is now....
New woodworker suggestions: If you’re just starting out, plan for growth and change. That may mean not making your space dedicated to a specific set of machines (ie, jobsite table saw but may move to larger saw sooner). Dedicated miter stations are great, but consider putting dog holes in the tops because this may also become your sanding/routing spot too. Incorporate a few dust collection and power outlets so you don’t require extension cords. Keep your tools staged but out of the way. The accessories can be stored in cabinets or drawers but you don’t want to be in a situation where you have to put things away to make room to use the next tool. Last, plan for growth and then more growth
I know I'm coming late to the party, but just one recommendation for the charging area. You seem to have a lot of USB cables, each connected to a separate charger. I bought a few multi-port USB chargers. And I find that much better.
Heat gun was the wrong move. The heat softens the laminate. Next time have an old Gatorade bottle with a few pin holes in the top filled with lacquer thinner on hand. Squirt it in the area you want to lift the laminate and it will come right up. Let it dry and restick the laminate.
Ive never worked with laminate or contact cement, but if I was in your situation, I would have tried making a straight cut before the rip, then just putting another piece of laminate on and either live with the seam, or figure out a way to hide it. Is that possible?
That is definitely possible, and I actually though about that. Unfortunately my OCD couldn’t live with the seam 😂 If it was laminating for a client, I would have for sure done what I did, and I figured I wanted it to be seamless. Had the same though though 👍🏻
@@garagedwellersww Okay that is good to know that its probably doable. I am in the process of building a miter station and currently I'm using plywood as the top. I plan on doing laminate in the future though. I think I would have put a container or something on that seam if it were me if I didnt have spare material 🤷
You obviously did more than one miter station. My attempt has a fail. I did 2 sheets mdf on a left over hollow door. Then Formica top. Once I put it on my frame I found it wasn't flat...:(((. No idea how I got a high spot but I did. So my question is how do you achive flat...is it because you have level cabinets. I put together frames with joined/planed 2 by fours with lap joints and they came out square and the frame sat flat. I have lever feet on all 4 frames front and back but again...my 2 year old concrete floor is flat and it all sits very flat...So if I take this top off and put 2 MDF sheets on (just using T tracks sorry don't see the need to spend $$$ on everything). I'd definitely not fixing this till spring. Got too many hot projects. Just wonder what your take is on this.
Maybe ask what you wanna know, or try looking up videos specifically about t-track, or this brand. Google is also an option. You shouldn't just expect everyone to know what you're looking for.
I used Woodpecker’s track, but have used other regular T track before. You can either use the method I did, where you buy MDF/plywood that is the same thickness of the t track and glue that on around the track, or build your top and then use a router to make a channel for your track.
Nice video! Thanks for that. Can you share a link to the lift mechanism you used?
Thanks for checking it out, glad you liked it and hope it was helpful! Here is a link for the Rev A Shelf lift. You can also find any product I used at the Amazon link in the video description:
amzn.to/3OvZPf2
Thanks very much@@garagedwellersww! Really enjoy your content.
As an old guy who has made too many to count laminate tops, always keep a ketchup bottle of acetone handy so when this happens squirt acetone under the laminate and a couple seconds later you can start pulling laminate back up. If you plan on taking all off just keep squirting and slowly lifting
Great tip, thanks for sharing!
Great video. Very natural voice over . Good videography. Lots of good tips and thoughts. I was expecting a small channel video and was pleasantly surprised to find a very professional video with a good balance of useful wisdom.
Thank you, much appreciated
I really appreciate the thoughts behind the video. I am downsizing from a 30x30 workspace to a 12x30 workspace, and it has really thrown me to try and rethink it to a usable enjoyable space instead of just a storage area. I mostly build items for the farm, chickens, and our market garden, but I have dreams of building mission/arts and craft style furniture for myself. But first i have to build out my old space to a veggie pack room, a walk-in cooler, and a farm store and tables and displays.
Glad it was helpful and thanks for watching! The smaller the space, the bigger the challenge for sure - good luck building out your new space!
I appreciate the non-cookie cutter approach. I feel like a lot of miter stations on RUclips are designed to be modular to sell plans or are not fully thought through. Glorified kitchen cabinets when the space doesn’t need to be that way
Agreed - I think it's really important to evaluate how you work and build based on that, not how someone in a huge shop selling plans works.
I realize this is an older video, but I have alternate methods for separating the contact cement immediately prior to bonding. Try sheets of cardboard, thin mdf, 1/4" plywood, or plastic sheeting instead of wood scraps, or tubing. You can pull the whole sheet/length of material along as your bringing the glued surfaces together. Even heavily warped laminate will not be able to touch the surface.
The contact cement should not be tacky to the touch when ready for bonding, so the materials should slide easily between the laminate and bonding material.
1st time I've seen those flip stops. I'll be building a miter station as one of my next build projects. I just moved into our new house that has a 14'x32.5' woodworking shop. Problem right now is I have absolutely nothing on the walls, and zero cabinets. I had all my stuff on the floor, not ideal, so I bought a couple of shelves at Costco to put them on (they'll go in the attic for storage shelves later). I'm building an outfeed/assembly table right now, and then on to my miter table. It will be going across the entire 14' on the end of the room, but won't have any storage under it. The under side is a dog run because I've got 2 dog doors in the room. One from the garage, and the other outside. I'll be putting hog fence on the front of the miter station bench to keep the dogs under the bench and out of the shop. Love the idea of a laminated top. I did one of those for the router station I built so I'm pretty sure I can handle it for the miter station. What is the rail system with the stops you used? I checked your site but didn't see it there. Love those stops that tuck out of the way when not in use. Thanks for sharing.
Really cool idea with the dog run underneath! I just added them to the store, but here is the link to them: amzn.to/3wcio1h
If you go to the Woodpeckers site, they also sell the stops themselves, as well as the adhesive measuring tape. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Man- this is beautiful, and I LOVE that unique idea with the kitchen mixer lift.
Thank you!
@@garagedwellersww I bought your hat! It’s so so nice.
Great video! I think showing the mistakes is as important as the successes. I can only assume ( and hope) that the Miter Saw and top are completely removable. As a Master Electrician of (nearly) 30 yrs. this is an FYI.. One of the main things that the NEC 110.26 specifies is that ALL ELECTRICAL PANELS must have enough room around them that someone working on the equipment will have the room to safely access everything they need. This is necessary for all types of work including examination of the electrical panel, making adjustments to the electrical panel, servicing the electrical panel, and of course, performing maintenance on the electrical panel. More to the point... no standing "Non-movable" equipment, or structures may be installed within 36 inches to the front of the panel. 😁
Yes, I have an electrician do all my electrical and everything moves if needed, and is done to code!
@@garagedwellersww Outstanding !
This is a great upgrade video~! I have Marc's plan for this station as well and am hoping to get started on it soon. Will definitely incorporate some of your changes, like the top & the shelf mod for my own spindle sander. Excellent idea~! Thanks for sharing...
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video with some really great ideas. Been trying to figure out how to display and actually use my spindle sander and even my small jointer and be able to still use the span for the miter saw, you checked all the boxes. So glad I found your video. Exactly what I need to implement into my shop cabinet project. Went a head and smashed the money button for you.
Thank you - I'm glad it was helpful!
Organizing my shop is a constant lately. I have to make what I got work as I have a 10 x 16 portable building lofted gambrel barn shed. My latest shop tour doesn't even reflect what it is now....
I feel like our shops are always in a constant state of flux as you grow and evolve.
New woodworker suggestions: If you’re just starting out, plan for growth and change. That may mean not making your space dedicated to a specific set of machines (ie, jobsite table saw but may move to larger saw sooner). Dedicated miter stations are great, but consider putting dog holes in the tops because this may also become your sanding/routing spot too. Incorporate a few dust collection and power outlets so you don’t require extension cords. Keep your tools staged but out of the way. The accessories can be stored in cabinets or drawers but you don’t want to be in a situation where you have to put things away to make room to use the next tool. Last, plan for growth and then more growth
Great tips - the shop is a constant evolution.
I know I'm coming late to the party, but just one recommendation for the charging area. You seem to have a lot of USB cables, each connected to a separate charger. I bought a few multi-port USB chargers. And I find that much better.
Good call!
Heat gun was the wrong move. The heat softens the laminate. Next time have an old Gatorade bottle with a few pin holes in the top filled with lacquer thinner on hand. Squirt it in the area you want to lift the laminate and it will come right up. Let it dry and restick the laminate.
Ive never worked with laminate or contact cement, but if I was in your situation, I would have tried making a straight cut before the rip, then just putting another piece of laminate on and either live with the seam, or figure out a way to hide it. Is that possible?
That is definitely possible, and I actually though about that. Unfortunately my OCD couldn’t live with the seam 😂
If it was laminating for a client, I would have for sure done what I did, and I figured I wanted it to be seamless. Had the same though though 👍🏻
@@garagedwellersww Okay that is good to know that its probably doable. I am in the process of building a miter station and currently I'm using plywood as the top. I plan on doing laminate in the future though. I think I would have put a container or something on that seam if it were me if I didnt have spare material 🤷
Dude! Where on Earth did you get those beautiful tattoos????
I’m your 10,000th subscriber!
Thanks for subscribing!
I thought you sander storage shelf was a great idea until I looked up the price in UK. It would cost me £600+
Surely they don't cost that in USA
Holy cow! No, they cost maybe $150 when I bought them.
Boy I'm glad I'm not the only one that has those temper tantrums lmao. I feel your pain brother.
Haha, yeah they don’t happen quite as often these days, but when they do, they HAPPEN 😂
You had me at Metallica!🤘🏼
🤘🏻
You obviously did more than one miter station. My attempt has a fail. I did 2 sheets mdf on a left over hollow door. Then Formica top. Once I put it on my frame I found it wasn't flat...:(((. No idea how I got a high spot but I did. So my question is how do you achive flat...is it because you have level cabinets. I put together frames with joined/planed 2 by fours with lap joints and they came out square and the frame sat flat. I have lever feet on all 4 frames front and back but again...my 2 year old concrete floor is flat and it all sits very flat...So if I take this top off and put 2 MDF sheets on (just using T tracks sorry don't see the need to spend $$$ on everything). I'd definitely not fixing this till spring. Got too many hot projects. Just wonder what your take is on this.
Could it be the door? Those hollow core doors can certainly be flexible and wonky, and bend out of shape over time.
Sub'd due to the inclusion of the temper tantrum when you messed up gluing the laminate.
Haha, I have plenty of temper tantrums - thanks for subscribing!
@@garagedwellersww I appreciate seeing the screwups, feels more real because I don’t care who you are it’s going to happen.
Not enough info on the t track. Everyone’s video lacks this and assumed. It’s the least explained part of any build
Maybe ask what you wanna know, or try looking up videos specifically about t-track, or this brand. Google is also an option. You shouldn't just expect everyone to know what you're looking for.
I used Woodpecker’s track, but have used other regular T track before. You can either use the method I did, where you buy MDF/plywood that is the same thickness of the t track and glue that on around the track, or build your top and then use a router to make a channel for your track.