The Final Test!!BLOWN HEAD GASKET!!!C-15 6NZ Vs Co2

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  • Опубликовано: 5 ноя 2017
  • Doing the final test on my caterpillar to see if it have a blown head gasket or cracked head. I'm using CO2 to fill the air tanks on the truck to see if it's an air leak or combustion gas.
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Комментарии • 19

  • @keylogisticsinc
    @keylogisticsinc 4 года назад

    Thanks for the input,I have been having same issues,guess head is coming off!

  • @RC-Heli835
    @RC-Heli835 3 года назад

    Glad you found the blown head gasket man!

  • @tommystearns3073
    @tommystearns3073 4 года назад

    combustion gas in coolant usually indicates internal engine damage. next step would be to remove the oil filler cap with the engine running at normal operating temperature to check for blow by and back pressure, that will help give you an idea of what's going on inside. my guess is the engine is ready to be pulled and rebuilt

  • @charlese.malone2594
    @charlese.malone2594 6 лет назад +3

    Keith, Love the channel.
    Wanted to drop a few lines/comments about your combustion leak check and a thumbs up to your work around with the CO2 dopping of the Air Pneumatic system.
    I personal like UView's Double chamber tester myself, it really helps to eliminate false positives.
    If your ever in a spot in questioning the test fluid (I.e. Is it any good) there is a simple test you can perform.
    Load up the tester (No need to fill both chambers) Place it near a running cars exhaust tailpipe and give it a few pumps and draw in some exhaust gases until it changes color (If not, you know the Test fluid has passed its use), with a change in color take it away from the tailpipe and draw some fresh air into the chamber. The Test fluid should turn back to its original color. (It can do this a few times before it becomes saturated and unusable)
    This is great to double check your results on a diagnoses, I personally do not reuse/save used fluid from Vehicle to Vehicle but will use the same fluid in the same session of tests. Waste not! :)
    Another good indicator of issues, If you get a good seal around the Radiator/Overflow Tank neck. The Tester will pull a vacuum and the pump ball will collapse (suck in) and hold. If you can continually pump the Leak tester and it continues to draw air from the cooling system, there is a leak somewhere in the system.
    There are other tests you could also perform but I think you're looking at an issue with the Air pump driving air into the cooling system, (But from where) I'm not familiar with these systems but I could theorize what is going on.
    Don't know if you have pulled the Head off yet. :(
    Another set of tests would be a pressure check and a vacuum test on the cooling system to track down the leak, but again I think its the Air pump.
    Now One,
    Does the Air pump have its own oil system? or does it get its liberation from the engine oil?
    Is the Air pump Air cooled? or does it have/or also have a cooling jacket from the engine block running into it?
    (This would be nice as it would give the pump direct access to the cooling system, or there is a crack somewhere in the block as well the cooling system)
    I've read and seen that on some rigs (If not most) there is an Air clutch for the Fan. I've seen the airline run external but also in some cases have a jacket to feed the clutch via the block.
    Another possibility is the Fan Clutch could be the entry of the air into the system via the water pump!
    The idea of the cooling system holding pressure for so long days weeks, the issue must have come from the Pneumatic system because of its the only part that has a Higher pressure at any time (Cold/Hot engine) then the cooling system.
    The main Pneumatic feeds do not touch the engine in any way other than the Air Pump or the Fan Clutch/water pump that I know of and this is the common point.
    I would start/further your diagnostic process looking into these areas before Popping the head. (If you have not already)
    You are close tto the issue.
    Might save you time and money, worst case you still have to pull the head. You're almost there by testing the Air Pump and Fan Clutch as well the water pump.
    Cheers, Keeps us updated...

    • @Speedfreak1984
      @Speedfreak1984  6 лет назад

      Thanks for the info. I haven't pulled the head yet. In that video I had the coolant bypassed from the compressor. I have tried several different ways of testing the clutch fan and the air system. I'm still leaning towards it being a head issue but just can't prove it. The engine itself runs great has very little blow by and uses less than 2 quarts of oil within 12000 mile oil change intervals. If you have any more ideas please comment below. Thanks for the help

    • @charlese.malone2594
      @charlese.malone2594 6 лет назад

      Found this video online of a pump replacement as a reference for myself.
      ruclips.net/video/846bVMd_J4Q/видео.html
      I still find it weird how you were not getting a positive for Combustion gases in the cooling system in some of your last tests but only after charging the Pneumatic system with CO2 you started to get a positive reading.
      Or did I miss something? :)
      I'm wondering if you might have two issues. (Don't know how yet)
      The test will react to combustion gases but will also react with air as I mentioned, If you get a positive you can change the color of the fluid back to Blue by drawing in fresh air.
      What if you do have a head gasket/block/head crack but in addition somehow your getting raw "clean" air in the system.
      This would explain how your test is not positive all the time!?
      Here is a video from a friend from SMA.
      The color does not really matter, It will go from Blue, Light green, to Yellow. They will all still react the same.
      ruclips.net/video/U0DdVQoBu4U/видео.html
      Its also wried how long the cooling system holds pressure over time.
      I know they make a Dye you can add to the coolant and leaks do travel both ways. It would show up in the exhaust or in the oil. There are videos on its use, afterward, there will be a fine UV dye coating that would show up that could be traced back and/or give you an idea.
      It's better to have an idea than a guess.
      Another visual indicator you could try is keeping the Tester on the Tank and give the engine a few revs. The bubble would increase if it was from Combustion I would think.
      Man, This is a good one, Keith.
      I really do like diagnostics, its a hobby as well as a side trade of mine.
      If it were me, I couldn't make a call without other tests going positive.
      My Vehicle yes, customer Nope.
      Besides the Combustion Leak Check Aka Block check. You still have a few more tricks,
      Cylinder leak down test
      Cylinder Compression Test
      Pressure/Vacuum Test (Cooling system)
      UV Dye Test (Cooling system)
      Oil Hot Plate Test (My favorite, it works)
      Oil Analyzed (Cost $28.00)
      I'm sure there are a few more.
      Something is pressurizing the cooling system with a gas (Combustion and/or Air) but what and from where?
      Does the truck overheat much?

    • @jddees24
      @jddees24 3 года назад

      So it stays blue on radiator , until you put pressure on air system? Then changed color, thought it would change from radiator cap running? This would have misled you to think it was ok without the air system test but I don’t see why it wouldn’t have shown by the top cap??

  • @mvand11
    @mvand11 2 года назад

    The fluid tester was meant for gasoline engines. I’ve learned that the hard way and was told by a machinist who has ran into this issue many times on cat engines. Spend hours going through this as well with a cat. Blowing coolant out the cap but not changing color, head gasket was bad and so on.

  • @jddees24
    @jddees24 3 года назад

    So what did it end up being??

  • @RC-Heli835
    @RC-Heli835 4 года назад

    SpeedFreak do you know if there is any other way for the charge air line to get coolant in it besides the Precooler on a C-13 Acert?
    I'm pretty sure I'm fixing to need my 3rd precooler in 1.5 years time frame. This one now is 2 months old from fresh new install. 1st symptoms were loads of white smoke and loosing coolant and skipping.
    I'm able to use the truck by keeping about 1 inch of coolant in the reservoir tank.
    Much more than that it will smoke and run bad.

    • @golloherera1934
      @golloherera1934 Год назад

      Wow mr blade still running

    • @RC-Heli835
      @RC-Heli835 Год назад

      @@golloherera1934 Yea I by passed the cooler and never looked back!😀

    • @golloherera1934
      @golloherera1934 Год назад

      I need your help with by passed cooler ty

    • @RC-Heli835
      @RC-Heli835 Год назад

      @@golloherera1934 Are you wanting to by pass your cooler?

    • @golloherera1934
      @golloherera1934 Год назад

      Yes c13 accert

  • @keylogisticsinc
    @keylogisticsinc 4 года назад

    What did the problem turn out to be?
    Got the same truck as your and it does the same thing!
    Out of frame overhaul with new Cat head about 200k miles ago?

  • @charlese.malone2594
    @charlese.malone2594 6 лет назад

    My last comment was getting long winded, but I also wanted to ask.
    How is the Blow bye on the engine? any signs that air might be entering the crankcase?
    I personally have seen the two different fluids myself I can not really find any information on the difference with these fluids. I would think they react the same to combustion gases.
    I've read about test fluids having difference reactions states to the amount combustion gas level (I.e. Low level and High level)
    Make it easier to find very small leak levels of dissolved gases.
    But again I can't find any information or comment from the makers on the difference.
    Would make a good video comparing the reactions between Gas & Diesel exhust.