Pro Tip: When pouring out of the jug, ALWAYS pour with the opening on the top, not in down like most people think. Then the oil will not jump and glug out, it will pour out smooth and controlled. This is the way you pour anything with an opening towards one side of a jug or can. . always spout up, not down.
i just bought a forester of my own and been researching stuff on an oil change. thanks for the vid! from what i seen the blue oil filter is pretty garbage tho. might be subaru OEM but it's basically just a $4 fram filter. obviously you can use what you want on it but for the price personally i'm gonna use a better filter in it.
Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching. I just seen another video that the SOA filters are going to be made by a different manufacture, so thanks for the advice.
The Subaru Dealer threw away my rotating cover. Changing my oil for the first time this month. The drain nut is on really tight. I am going to use a breaker bar with 17mm deep well socket.
I researched and checked around to see what was up with this. The first thing, make sure that you are attempting to drain the oil and not the transmission fluid, but some Subaru drain plugs were 14 mm at one point and many are now 17 mm. The change in Subaru happens some time after 2012. The thread size is the same, M16 or 16 only the wrench size changes. Making guesses, that either it was a factory oddity using old parts, or you got an oil change somewhere and they got your 17 mm mixed up with a 14 mm?
Mine must be the oddball. Bought it new from dealer and have changed my own oil. 14 mm it is. What I find very odd is the 6k change intervals while using full synthetic. A bit of overkill? @@NWHITEGULL
Mine does, it us usually a little less than a quart. There are a a few youtube videos that explain this is caused by the thinner oil being used for increased mileage efficiency. You should check the oil at regular intervals especially if your going over 5k between oil changes.
My wifes parents are giving me crap for buying a torque wrench specifically for oil changes. I may be a little paranoid about it, but oil change places have stripped the heads of old drain plug bolts on my last car. It was ironic when the place said "we replaced the drain plug bolt because the last place you took it to stripped the head" and I was like "......this is the only place I take it....." I've also seen bolts fall out and engines seize. Also, the torque wrench I bought is 10 to 150 ft-lb so I can remove the lug nuts and check the steering, suspension, and brakes, and retorque the lug nuts.
I'm usually paranoid about the oil coming out or stripping the nut, so the torque wrench seems like insurance for my peace of mind. With the crush washer in place you do have the possibility to distort the washer if it's too tight. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comments.
you just put it on tight. . not cranked. . no reason for a torque wrench. Worked as a mechanic for years. . . tech specs vs the real world are two different things when it comes to what some engineer wrote in a manual.
If you hold your foot on the accelerator all the way to the floor, the car will turn over for 10 seconds without starting and fill the filter and pump oil up into the engine fyi
Thanks for posting the crush washer part number.
No problem 👍
Thank you for sharing this information with Subaru owners 🚙
Glad it was helpful!
Good detail - thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Pro Tip: When pouring out of the jug, ALWAYS pour with the opening on the top, not in down like most people think. Then the oil will not jump and glug out, it will pour out smooth and controlled. This is the way you pour anything with an opening towards one side of a jug or can. . always spout up, not down.
That is a good tip. I will try that next time, thanks for the tip and thanks for watching.
i just bought a forester of my own and been researching stuff on an oil change. thanks for the vid! from what i seen the blue oil filter is pretty garbage tho. might be subaru OEM but it's basically just a $4 fram filter. obviously you can use what you want on it but for the price personally i'm gonna use a better filter in it.
Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching. I just seen another video that the SOA filters are going to be made by a different manufacture, so thanks for the advice.
The Subaru Dealer threw away my rotating cover. Changing my oil for the first time this month. The drain nut is on really tight. I am going to use a breaker bar with 17mm deep well socket.
How did the breaker bar work?
How do you like the newer Forester with all the fancy gadgets and gizmos?
For the fancy bit that we do have on the limited, we liked it enough to get an Ascent Touring.
My 2021 ...I LOVE it even though I'm 53 and did not like the safety features, lane change feature, etc.
My 2021 Forester has a 14 mm drain plug.
Anyone else?
I researched and checked around to see what was up with this. The first thing, make sure that you are attempting to drain the oil and not the transmission fluid, but some Subaru drain plugs were 14 mm at one point and many are now 17 mm. The change in Subaru happens some time after 2012. The thread size is the same, M16 or 16 only the wrench size changes. Making guesses, that either it was a factory oddity using old parts, or you got an oil change somewhere and they got your 17 mm mixed up with a 14 mm?
Mine must be the oddball. Bought it new from dealer and have changed my own oil. 14 mm it is. What I find very odd is the 6k change intervals while using full synthetic. A bit of overkill? @@NWHITEGULL
Does it consume any oil in between oil changes?
Mine does, it us usually a little less than a quart. There are a a few youtube videos that explain this is caused by the thinner oil being used for increased mileage efficiency. You should check the oil at regular intervals especially if your going over 5k between oil changes.
@@NWHITEGULL What year is it and how many miles?
2021, with about 90k on it now.
My wifes parents are giving me crap for buying a torque wrench specifically for oil changes. I may be a little paranoid about it, but oil change places have stripped the heads of old drain plug bolts on my last car. It was ironic when the place said "we replaced the drain plug bolt because the last place you took it to stripped the head" and I was like "......this is the only place I take it....." I've also seen bolts fall out and engines seize. Also, the torque wrench I bought is 10 to 150 ft-lb so I can remove the lug nuts and check the steering, suspension, and brakes, and retorque the lug nuts.
I'm usually paranoid about the oil coming out or stripping the nut, so the torque wrench seems like insurance for my peace of mind. With the crush washer in place you do have the possibility to distort the washer if it's too tight. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comments.
you just put it on tight. . not cranked. . no reason for a torque wrench. Worked as a mechanic for years. . . tech specs vs the real world are two different things when it comes to what some engineer wrote in a manual.
If you hold your foot on the accelerator all the way to the floor, the car will turn over for 10 seconds without starting and fill the filter and pump oil up into the engine fyi
I didn't know that I will have to give that a try next time, thanks for the comment.
Thank you
You're welcome