@bobby8926 surprisingly, it is very reliable, I have yet to see one of these module go bad. Every time I have diagnosed a low or no fuel pressure problem on these it was always the pump. However the modules can definitely fail, so I thought it was important to show the complete test.
This is how you recognize a great instructor..As the video was going i was coming up with questions (why? what about? what if?) and by the end of the video all of my questions were answered. Much props to you Mr Danner. Hector from Los Angeles California..East to West education baby!!!!
Hey brother! Me again, we talked a couple months ago about a 2017 Ford Focus SE. You will be happy to know that I have diagnosed all of my electrical issues which lead me to determine that the PCM was for sure bad. I bought a new used pcm (correct PN) and went to use IDS to reprogram it and IDS would not for the life of me recognize the car as a Ford Focus...it kept recognizing it as a CMAX. After hours of diagnostic work and talking to my friend who is a “lead technician at Ford”...no luck. He kept telling me to replace parts which as we know is not the way you diagnose/ fix problems cheaply. I ignored it and decided to look into a electronic TB clicking noise that he told me not to worry about. Needless to say when I unplugged the TB, I was able to reprogram the pcm as IDS recognized it THEN as the correct year make and model. After doing all that and reprogramming PATS, the car cranked kinda intermittently with both keys which was a leap of confidence as it didn’t do that before. When I did a system test with IDS, all modules passed with flying colors but obviously I had a code for the TB. The challenge now is that every time I plug the TB in it begins clicking and I get a no communication with PCM 😭
maybe it is shorting out the 5v ref circuit when you plug the throttle body in. Do some voltage measurements on that unit and in particular the TPS circuits
@@ScannerDanner I am pretty sure I did and it was good. I will check again. Oddly enough I found a video in the depths of RUclips that a guy was experiencing the same symptoms: ruclips.net/video/89erBTvQgSw/видео.html He dropped it off at Ford and they said it was a faulty fuel pressure sensor which fixed the problem. I will be checking the two fuel pressure sensors as well. I’m assuming in his situation the ecu wasn’t receiving correct pressures to allow the TB to calibrate correctly at key position 2.
Great video. I am a professional auto tech and just had an issue with a 2014 F150 Fuel pump. Several weeks ago the fuel pump failed, I properly diagnosed it and checked the operation of this fuel pump control module. Replaced the fuel pump and got the truck going again for the customer. Well two weeks later It died on the customer again. This time it was a bad fuel pump control module. What must of happened was when the fuel pump failed it drew a high amperage and damaged or weakened the control module. It lived on for about two weeks but then failed. I think from this point forward when I replace a bad fuel pump I am also going to recommend this module be replaced as well. In this case the module was $60, cheap insurance to prevent a future breakdown.
Hey you just saved my life with this video. My 06 Mercury mountaineer died on me a few weeks ago. I changed fuel pump and fuel pressure sensor and nothing. I started checking ground wires and found the problem. Im now up and running again. Thank you so much for your information
ScannerDanner I believe it was a ground. Was having the same type of symptoms. rpms would bounce a little with blinkers on along with dash lights would flicker. Eventually it corroded all the way through leaving me at a stop light
@AutoTechHector Thank you so much Hector, what a great compliment. And I was hoping this video was clear. I was concerned about parts of it. I tried to clear it up even more with part 2, but it may be a little overkill.
Thanks, you saved me a lot of worry and money. I was pounding a dent out on a friends Taurus, driver side rear quarter panel. I could hear an occasional noise like a tape measure snapping back. Well, when I finished, the car would not start. I found the inertia switch in the LH of the trunk, pushed the red button down and it started right up. thanks again
A GREAT informative and detailed video. Your knowledge and presentation of it is very impressive for a teacher! I know your students are very lucky to have you instruct them! I had no idea there were so many electronic parts in line affecting the operation of a fuel pump on some vehicles. Thank You for a great job of sharing your wisdom!
@TRcustomengineering Thanks bro, stay tuned, I am going to review this with my class today, using the case study in my book on this same system. I will post the lecture when I am done.
@@rexluongo6470 offhand I don't have a link but it would most likely in my chapter 15 playlist (Fuel Pump Electrical Circuits) or 16 (Fuel Pressure Testing)
@@ScannerDanner If a maf sensor is replaced with a bad maf. Where do you buy a good one? Just asking because I figured out one of my issues. MAF is bad. Replaced it with oreillys new MAF, runs normal at idle but now runs lean at throttle and high rpm only. It used to be the opposite or just ran lean all the time. Throttle response improved tremendously. So I am pretty sure I got a bad MAF. What is your expert opinion?
the key is to understand that this pump is ground side switched. so when the pump is turned off you should see full battery voltage on the pump ground. since we see low voltage this indicates a brush to motor contact problem.
HI PAUL i wrote you like a month ago on my 2005 nissan pathfinder getting STfueltrim 11 to 12 and my LONGfueltrim 9.4 and my o2 reading lean bank 1 and very poor mpg about 9.5. i just went an change the o2 wide band, no luck.Today i have tdc 340 i went n change camshaft p.s for bank 1 and back to nomal my MPG it now at 15.2,im really HAPPY .THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR VIDEOS ...
Thanks ScannerDanner! I have a '03 Taurus with an intermittent start condition. I don't have a correct manual on hand and this is a great help to get to the issue. I couldn't find the fuel pump control module on the car to troubleshoot it. Awesome help!
@JohnzCarz I don't think I would use an LED type test light but a regular test light you will have no problem with whatsoever. There is not enough current to damage the bulb filament.
Excellent! Wish I would have watched this yesterday before diagnosing. On another note, (2004 ford explorer, 4.0, crank/start no power, 3000 rpm in neutral max) I did it differently in the end by jumping the pump power to incoming power (wt/rd to pk/bk), jumped pump ground (bk/pnk) to chassis ground, pump ran fine (I could hear it), still showed low pressure on scan tool, and under load pressure fell away until stalling. Pulled the filter and turned the car on only to watch the fuel dribble out of the line. I have never seen a pump that runs aurally fail. I suppose it could be the in tank regulator failing, or the sock is clogged up. Either way, it's time to pull the tank. Thanks for your post!
Best post yet dealing with no fuel pressure for me ! Guy has freakin thunder cats knowledge, but the more I listen the better I get! Just wish you would do a f150 with that dual tank switch . Oh yeah where are the best grounds in cockpit areas where do you 1st look for grounds for your test light.
It does and I can on a different car in the future as this one is fixed and back to the customer. Testing is identical to any pressure sensor. 5v reference, signal and a ground. Signal voltage is analog and changes in proportion to fuel rail pressure. Low voltage, around .5 volt = 0 psi (if I remember correctly)
Yes we do, alot of american, GMC, FORD, AMERICAN JAPANASE. so. i don;t understand inglish lot, my inglish is medium ,but you explain everything good, and watch the video help a lot , so thanks so much to share your videos,
I don't think so, as very few manufacturers are doing this. I guess the theory is less alternator loads with this design. I cannot think of any other advantage.
I have a 99 ford cobra that has a returnless fuel system. My question is; This is what the "Kenne bell boost a pump" does, increases the signals to increase fuel pressure? This is way out of my league, but im willing to learn and you seem like the man to ask. By the way im subscribing, ETCG sent me here.
@NOEISY1 Are you having any driveability problems? Both upstream O2 sensors should be switching rich lean. It sounds like your bank 1 O2 is not. But I would be careful about putting an O2 in this as a small vacuum leak on bank 1 could cause this condition too.
doing a no start on a 08 escape FPM I believe watched ur vid very informative :)got a chuckle when u forgot the students name,,,,it would take me a few months to get the students names usually end up givin some of them nick names....
Hey danner thanks for the videos they're awesome! I just don't understand how the bad brush contact in the fuel pump would cause the voltage to not return to 12 volts. What is the brush making contact with to make that happen? The way i see it when the rotor stops spinning the commutators may be in contact with the brushes either way, so my question is what exactly do you mean when you say " the reason it doesn't go back to 12 volts is because of a bad brush contact"? Thanks again man cheers!
Thanks for a nice explanation. I hv a ford mustang 2014, same system. It runs but struggles to start. Key on engine off has 41psi but rapidly drops to zero psi after a few seconds. My understanding should keep pressure in the line as it has check valve.
New tech and old school common sense. Great job. I love your Hat pin test probes. There is an electronics engineer rolling over in his grave somewhere.
Good vid. i would think that this kind of pump would last longer than pumps that run at full speed all of the time, not less as someone else said, since there would be less wear and tear, less r-p-m-s..
Return less systems use a variable voltage fuel pump and the computer has it inject exactly what the fuel demands require. The reason for this is to prolong the life of the fuel pump. Return systems have a constant voltage feed with a constant static pressure that only increases under load due to the vacuum side of the fuel pressure regulator allowing the diaphragm to open or close. This is why fuel pumps in return less systems last longer than pumps in Return systems. The returnless has the ability to run low voltages at the pump when at idle or light load.
i did your method of checking spark using a test light, and i got no spark, i hear the fuel pump start when i put KOEO, i just want to ask some advice what to check next 2005 explorer xlt 4.0 flex non sporttrac thanks for the vids, learned a lot!
@bobby8926 No, I don't think it is... it is just easier to troubleshoot. To me, early systems were as unreliable as difficult to troubleshoot. In these days everything is all about production time. It makes easy to technician to have a faster solution in less time possible. I know Mr. Paul will show us how fast this is using a generic scanner. Technicians just need to set up at least 3 PID, a dyno or a road test snapshot.
Urgent help needed! Got my hands on a car, 2003 police version. Engine will not start. Runs for 10 seconds in the morning after starting it and won't start it again during the day. I have changed the crankshaft sensor, idle valve, fuel pump control unit. There are no errors in the diagnostic scanner. Also in the scanner I can see the engine RPM, fuel pressure and other parameters that are normal. I can see pulses on the coils and injectors connected with lights when trying to start. I've checked all the fuses and relays, tested the wiring. The spark plugs in the engine are new, compression in the cylinders is fine. Have not been able to cope for a week now. Help with advice or action.
At 6:15 you wrote about a section in your book - is this a writeup on this type of system (which I've dealt with on my own cobra) online or in print? Great reference for future use, thanks for taking the time to tape, edit, and post it up, it's greatly appreciated.
Yes, I have a book I've written for my engine performance class available on my website at www.scannerdanner.com It is available as an eBook or paper book. Thank you!
EXCELLENT! Can you tell me?... 2000 Taurus, no FP prime at KO; At the FPDM I have 12V in from inertia switch at KOEO, 12V at White/red (to FP) and 12V at Black/pink (FP ground) which drops to 0.45V on crank and then returns to 12V. Again, no FP prime at KO. Does this indicate dead FP?
2000 Ford Taurus did all the checks you showed...everything checks out. Couldn't hear the fuel pump when turned key on. Then when I double checked the main black ground wire while cranking it, it started...pump going out? How can I verify that the module is for sure good? It DOES have power in and out...
so the fuel pump is modulated like a epc solenoid /force motor in a transmission thanks for the help i am a transmission tech so when i have other problems i some times need a little help
Very helpful info. thanks. On a 2004 focus I tested , the fuel pressure was at 29 psi, (low end of the spec was 30 psi), and the pressure was bouncing around a bit. Is that normal with a Ford module system that doesn't have a fuel pressure regulator?
ScannerDanner, I was changing the oil on my 2000 Ford Ranger today, and I noticed a fuel pressure regulator sitting right there on the fuel rail, which reminded me of as to why would a returnless fuel system even have a fuel pressure regulator present. She only has one line feeding the fuel rail, and the fuel filter has a 3rd bypass line on it. I'm puzzled as to why there is even a fuel pressure regulator there. This one is beyond me. She has the 2.5 Lima inline 4 block under her hood.
to be honest with you i already knew it was the fuel pump after the spark test. because if we had a plugged injector it would sort of run if it were another issue it would smell like gas. if it were sensor issue there would have been a CEL and a code.
Just want to say thank you for everything. i’ve been learning a lot from you. But I’m stuck don’t know what to do I have a 2006 Ford ranger 4.OL V6 having a misfire problem I replace the coils and spark plugs and wires and it’s always the second cylinder misfire I checked for leaks check my map sensor and my downstream O2 sensors both short term -2 in the long term is at between 14 16 what can I do next ..
Hey scan just a question the 1.61 volts at the ground side of the pump with an open ground and no current flowing you had voltage drop. Would it be correct to say the bad brush contact in the pump had incredablely high resistance? Excellent video.
Friends car, needed new coil n plug. loud pump, told him change fuel filter.Didnt, car later died-changed car runs great. Car Pump sounds sickly at key on, throws a lean code and needs a key on and off 3 times for perfect start. No hesitations under low rpm with an engine load and locked up converter, no idle issues. Lean code goes away with 1 notch above E and below. Runs great Havent checked fuel pressure, leaning toward tired pump? 252,000miles
HI PAULi wait for the engine fully hot close loop and scope the o2 sersor 4 of them,O2B1S1,O2B1S2,O2B2S1,O2B2S2 AND THE ONE GOT MY ATTENTION WAS (O2B1S1) WHEN I accelerate stay 290 to 310 mv no change, until I let go the gas pedal go to 810mv for a SEC.and back to 290.my STFT and LTFT was much better sometimes, from 3 to 9.5 STFT and 8 to 9.4 LTFT. what means B1S1 ON THE O2 sensor?nissan 2005 pathfinder 4.0. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP..
check engine light is on= code P0191...Symptom's are "No start but cranking has spark"...first key turn no fuel pump prime noise heard.... symptom comes and goes in any type of weather or temperatures On second crank if you turn the key to off and than turn it back to crank ( if i hear the fuel pump prime) than the car starts.
but if i don't it will just crank but sometimes after i hear the pump prime and starts it stumbles like it wants to die and it does..(and sometimes it doesn't stumble) So i do this a few times making sure i hear the pump prime and if i get lucky it starts and runs fine and off i go...Once the car is running i have no problems with staling at stops,highway speeds or idle.. Symptoms appear at first start no matter how long its been sitting (5minute to 24hrs).
I have a 2000 Merc Sable. P1237 code came up(car still runs) did the test on the module, and when I got a low voltage on the ground wire(red w/black tracer) after cranking, I banged on the tank to see if the voltage would come up, it didn't. Does it still mean that I have a bad pump? even though the car still runs? THX
when i am checking for grounds i look to see if there is continuity to body, would that be an acceptable way of checking? I also check for amperage on the power wires because continuity can be biased and doesn't measure current
ScannerDanner.....AWESOM breakdown. I am currently working on the same vehicle, 2000 taurus....one question....how did you access the CM in the trunk? Is the "felt" verticl cover that looks like it runs along the back of the seat what needs to come off? If so how did you go about removing that? I can't figure out how to remove things without damaging the covers...
Jeff it's been a long time. I believe I was working in the right rear area. Don't remember if I took the seat out but I do remember having difficulty finding it.
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![New Fuel Pump - Still No Fuel Pressure - Now What? [2012 Ford E350]](/img/1.gif)
@bobby8926 surprisingly, it is very reliable, I have yet to see one of these module go bad. Every time I have diagnosed a low or no fuel pressure problem on these it was always the pump. However the modules can definitely fail, so I thought it was important to show the complete test.
This is how you recognize a great instructor..As the video was going i was coming up with questions (why? what about? what if?) and by the end of the video all of my questions were answered. Much props to you Mr Danner. Hector from Los Angeles California..East to West education baby!!!!
Hey brother! Me again, we talked a couple months ago about a 2017 Ford Focus SE. You will be happy to know that I have diagnosed all of my electrical issues which lead me to determine that the PCM was for sure bad.
I bought a new used pcm (correct PN) and went to use IDS to reprogram it and IDS would not for the life of me recognize the car as a Ford Focus...it kept recognizing it as a CMAX. After hours of diagnostic work and talking to my friend who is a “lead technician at Ford”...no luck. He kept telling me to replace parts which as we know is not the way you diagnose/ fix problems cheaply. I ignored it and decided to look into a electronic TB clicking noise that he told me not to worry about. Needless to say when I unplugged the TB, I was able to reprogram the pcm as IDS recognized it THEN as the correct year make and model. After doing all that and reprogramming PATS, the car cranked kinda intermittently with both keys which was a leap of confidence as it didn’t do that before. When I did a system test with IDS, all modules passed with flying colors but obviously I had a code for the TB. The challenge now is that every time I plug the TB in it begins clicking and I get a no communication with PCM 😭
maybe it is shorting out the 5v ref circuit when you plug the throttle body in. Do some voltage measurements on that unit and in particular the TPS circuits
@@ScannerDanner I am pretty sure I did and it was good. I will check again. Oddly enough I found a video in the depths of RUclips that a guy was experiencing the same symptoms: ruclips.net/video/89erBTvQgSw/видео.html
He dropped it off at Ford and they said it was a faulty fuel pressure sensor which fixed the problem. I will be checking the two fuel pressure sensors as well. I’m assuming in his situation the ecu wasn’t receiving correct pressures to allow the TB to calibrate correctly at key position 2.
This is absolutely the best type of video for car repairs.
A breath of fresh air after seeing so many non informative videos.
Great video. I am a professional auto tech and just had an issue with a 2014 F150 Fuel pump. Several weeks ago the fuel pump failed, I properly diagnosed it and checked the operation of this fuel pump control module. Replaced the fuel pump and got the truck going again for the customer. Well two weeks later It died on the customer again. This time it was a bad fuel pump control module. What must of happened was when the fuel pump failed it drew a high amperage and damaged or weakened the control module. It lived on for about two weeks but then failed.
I think from this point forward when I replace a bad fuel pump I am also going to recommend this module be replaced as well. In this case the module was $60, cheap insurance to prevent a future breakdown.
the rail pressure sensor is the only "feedback" signal but the PCM uses all of the other inputs to determine what the ideal pressure should be
Hey you just saved my life with this video. My 06 Mercury mountaineer died on me a few weeks ago. I changed fuel pump and fuel pressure sensor and nothing. I started checking ground wires and found the problem. Im now up and running again. Thank you so much for your information
no problem! So you found a bad ground wire to the fuel pump module?
ScannerDanner I believe it was a ground. Was having the same type of symptoms. rpms would bounce a little with blinkers on along with dash lights would flicker. Eventually it corroded all the way through leaving me at a stop light
@AutoTechHector Thank you so much Hector, what a great compliment. And I was hoping this video was clear. I was concerned about parts of it.
I tried to clear it up even more with part 2, but it may be a little overkill.
Thanks, you saved me a lot of worry and money. I was pounding a dent out on a friends Taurus, driver side rear quarter panel. I could hear an occasional noise like a tape measure snapping back. Well, when I finished, the car would not start. I found the inertia switch in the LH of the trunk, pushed the red button down and it started right up.
thanks again
A GREAT informative and detailed video. Your knowledge and presentation of it is very impressive for a teacher! I know your students are very lucky to have you instruct them! I had no idea there were so many electronic parts in line affecting the operation of a fuel pump on some vehicles. Thank You for a great job of sharing your wisdom!
I will never be a Parts Changer, Seriously you paul you are making me to be professional and advanced Auto Electrician, in City here in Malawi
That's awesome. Glad to have you on board.
Thank you so much for posting this. You saved me hours of guessing, saved me tons in parts, and I learned some GREAT stuff here from this video!
@TRcustomengineering Thanks bro, stay tuned, I am going to review this with my class today, using the case study in my book on this same system. I will post the lecture when I am done.
Where is the lecture posted ? I would like to see it.
@@rexluongo6470 offhand I don't have a link but it would most likely in my chapter 15 playlist (Fuel Pump Electrical Circuits) or 16 (Fuel Pressure Testing)
@@ScannerDanner If a maf sensor is replaced with a bad maf. Where do you buy a good one? Just asking because I figured out one of my issues. MAF is bad. Replaced it with oreillys new MAF, runs normal at idle but now runs lean at throttle and high rpm only. It used to be the opposite or just ran lean all the time. Throttle response improved tremendously. So I am pretty sure I got a bad MAF. What is your expert opinion?
the key is to understand that this pump is ground side switched. so when the pump is turned off you should see full battery voltage on the pump ground. since we see low voltage this indicates a brush to motor contact problem.
HI PAUL i wrote you like a month ago on my 2005 nissan pathfinder getting STfueltrim 11 to 12 and my LONGfueltrim 9.4 and my o2 reading lean bank 1 and very poor mpg about 9.5. i just went an change the o2 wide band, no luck.Today i have tdc 340 i went n change camshaft p.s for bank 1 and back to nomal my MPG it now at 15.2,im really HAPPY .THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR VIDEOS ...
Thanks ScannerDanner!
I have a '03 Taurus with an intermittent start condition. I don't have a correct manual on hand and this is a great help to get to the issue. I couldn't find the fuel pump control module on the car to troubleshoot it.
Awesome help!
@bobby8926 Good question, I have to say that I am not seeing these pumps fail any more than a conventional one.
@JohnzCarz I don't think I would use an LED type test light but a regular test light you will have no problem with whatsoever. There is not enough current to damage the bulb filament.
@Alfvaldez great question. i have a video on this that should be uploaded by tomorrow. look for it. it's really good
That's a brilliant diagnostic job, keep it up we need these info.
I'll get back to you next week. On my way to camp where there are no electronics! Off hand I am not sure what a " Kenna bell boost a pump" is.
Excellent! Wish I would have watched this yesterday before diagnosing. On another note, (2004 ford explorer, 4.0, crank/start no power, 3000 rpm in neutral max) I did it differently in the end by jumping the pump power to incoming power (wt/rd to pk/bk), jumped pump ground (bk/pnk) to chassis ground, pump ran fine (I could hear it), still showed low pressure on scan tool, and under load pressure fell away until stalling. Pulled the filter and turned the car on only to watch the fuel dribble out of the line. I have never seen a pump that runs aurally fail. I suppose it could be the in tank regulator failing, or the sock is clogged up. Either way, it's time to pull the tank. Thanks for your post!
Best post yet dealing with no fuel pressure for me ! Guy has freakin thunder cats knowledge, but the more I listen the better I get! Just wish you would do a f150 with that dual tank switch . Oh yeah where are the best grounds in cockpit areas where do you 1st look for grounds for your test light.
It does and I can on a different car in the future as this one is fixed and back to the customer. Testing is identical to any pressure sensor. 5v reference, signal and a ground. Signal voltage is analog and changes in proportion to fuel rail pressure. Low voltage, around .5 volt = 0 psi (if I remember correctly)
Yes we do, alot of american, GMC, FORD, AMERICAN JAPANASE. so. i don;t understand inglish lot, my inglish is medium ,but you explain everything good, and watch the video help a lot , so thanks so much to share your videos,
I have a 2000 Taurus today. Glad I reviewed this vid. Super comprehensive. Gotta love the MT 2400
I don't think so, as very few manufacturers are doing this. I guess the theory is less alternator loads with this design. I cannot think of any other advantage.
@CoolasIce2 In the field I don't see these being any more or less reliable. I understand both points of view though.
I have a 99 ford cobra that has a returnless fuel system. My question is; This is what the "Kenne bell boost a pump" does, increases the signals to increase fuel pressure? This is way out of my league, but im willing to learn and you seem like the man to ask. By the way im subscribing, ETCG sent me here.
and just like that once again i just gained a bunch of knowledge thank you
@NOEISY1 Are you having any driveability problems? Both upstream O2 sensors should be switching rich lean. It sounds like your bank 1 O2 is not. But I would be careful about putting an O2 in this as a small vacuum leak on bank 1 could cause this condition too.
doing a no start on a 08 escape FPM I believe watched ur vid very informative :)got a chuckle when u forgot the students name,,,,it would take me a few months to get the students names usually end up givin some of them nick names....
+Terry Cote it's getting worse the older I get :)
Hey danner thanks for the videos they're awesome! I just don't understand how the bad brush contact in the fuel pump would cause the voltage to not return to 12 volts. What is the brush making contact with to make that happen? The way i see it when the rotor stops spinning the commutators may be in contact with the brushes either way, so my question is what exactly do you mean when you say " the reason it doesn't go back to 12 volts is because of a bad brush contact"? Thanks again man cheers!
Great video, very informative. Better than many manufacturer training videos.
I will work on it in the morning thanks again for your help.
Great video. Having a similar problem with 2005 Grand Marquis.
Thanks for a nice explanation. I hv a ford mustang 2014, same system. It runs but struggles to start. Key on engine off has 41psi but rapidly drops to zero psi after a few seconds. My understanding should keep pressure in the line as it has check valve.
Is this a GDI system?
New tech and old school common sense. Great job. I love your Hat pin test probes. There is an electronics engineer rolling over in his grave somewhere.
Good vid. i would think that this kind of pump would last longer than pumps that run at full speed all of the time, not less as someone else said, since there would be less wear and tear, less r-p-m-s..
Prodigy Sir ScannerDanner
Tutorial great video brilliant
Take care and have a great day
Sir ScannerDanner
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Do these have advantages over the pressure regulator type of systems?
Thanks Dan, lots of information, but very helpful information.
Lots more in part two.this its just the tip of a very long but spender Pittsburgh iceberg.
Excellent video, got the same car with what looks like the same problem, hopefully it is
Lol you've got a meter that can measure duty-cycle? I'm impressed.
im not sure. look on the fuel rail, if you see a pressure sensor then it is this system
Return less systems use a variable voltage fuel pump and the computer has it inject exactly what the fuel demands require.
The reason for this is to prolong the life of the fuel pump.
Return systems have a constant voltage feed with a constant static pressure that only increases under load due to the vacuum side of the fuel pressure regulator allowing the diaphragm to open or close.
This is why fuel pumps in return less systems last longer than pumps in Return systems. The returnless has the ability to run low voltages at the pump when at idle or light load.
brake clean sprayed in intake checks for spark and fuel but just a little shot to eliminate.
We all need help sometimes. Thanks for the comment!
Great man, glad to here it. Sorry I didn't help you with that one.
i did your method of checking spark using a test light, and i got no spark, i hear the fuel pump start when i put KOEO, i just want to ask some advice what to check next 2005 explorer xlt 4.0 flex non sporttrac thanks for the vids, learned a lot!
@TALAMANCA17 Costa Rica? You guys have Fords down there? Forgive my ignorance if you do.
@xxdemasterxx It was great, Eric is a great guy. We shot a video together, he should be posting it soon.
Can you not also test the pump by wiring it directly, bypassing the FPDM and watching the fuel pressure?
@bobby8926 No, I don't think it is... it is just easier to troubleshoot. To me, early systems were as unreliable as difficult to troubleshoot. In these days everything is all about production time. It makes easy to technician to have a faster solution in less time possible. I know Mr. Paul will show us how fast this is using a generic scanner.
Technicians just need to set up at least 3 PID, a dyno or a road test snapshot.
Urgent help needed!
Got my hands on a car, 2003 police version. Engine will not start. Runs for 10 seconds in the morning after starting it and won't start it again during the day. I have changed the crankshaft sensor, idle valve, fuel pump control unit. There are no errors in the diagnostic scanner. Also in the scanner I can see the engine RPM, fuel pressure and other parameters that are normal. I can see pulses on the coils and injectors connected with lights when trying to start.
I've checked all the fuses and relays, tested the wiring. The spark plugs in the engine are new, compression in the cylinders is fine. Have not been able to cope for a week now. Help with advice or action.
Awesome video I'm having the same issues on my 1989 Taurus sho
+Matthew Miller in 1989 they didn't use electronic return less systems
ScannerDanner I was thinking the same thing.
At 6:15 you wrote about a section in your book - is this a writeup on this type of system (which I've dealt with on my own cobra) online or in print? Great reference for future use, thanks for taking the time to tape, edit, and post it up, it's greatly appreciated.
Yes, I have a book I've written for my engine performance class available on my website at www.scannerdanner.com
It is available as an eBook or paper book.
Thank you!
Thank you Mr Danner Sello. S.Africa
@NOEISY1 What is your LTFT while the STFT is at 9-11? Also was the engine fully warmed up?
HAVE A 2002 FORD MUSTANG GT. 4.6L V8. WHERE IS THE FUEL PUMP DRIVER MODULE LOCATED ON THIS VEHICLE?
ScannerDanner tha man-ner!! Great vid bud!
EXCELLENT! Can you tell me?... 2000 Taurus, no FP prime at KO; At the FPDM I have 12V in from inertia switch at KOEO, 12V at White/red (to FP) and 12V at Black/pink (FP ground) which drops to 0.45V on crank and then returns to 12V. Again, no FP prime at KO. Does this indicate dead FP?
My 99 Cobra has the same single ended pump.....just failed, great info
Thank you! You should be able to troubleshoot your system then. If you have any questions, ask them!
great video. Helped a bunch.
2000 Ford Taurus did all the checks you showed...everything checks out. Couldn't hear the fuel pump when turned key on. Then when I double checked the main black ground wire while cranking it, it started...pump going out? How can I verify that the module is for sure good? It DOES have power in and out...
Well done video, very complete/detailed info very helpful, thanks
so the fuel pump is modulated like a epc solenoid /force motor in a transmission
thanks for the help i am a transmission tech so when i have other problems i some times need a little help
Thanks for your help I learned a lot
Sir I watch your every vidio
Hey danner thanks for all the videos I find them
@TrueBlueEG8 lol, that was annoying though wasn't it?
thanks very much!
Very helpful info. thanks. On a 2004 focus I tested , the fuel pressure was at 29 psi, (low end of the spec was 30 psi), and the pressure was bouncing around a bit. Is that normal with a Ford module system that doesn't have a fuel pressure regulator?
Yes. And if you snap it to wide open throttle, it should increase as well, but I think you'd have to drive it to see it.
ScannerDanner, I was changing the oil on my 2000 Ford Ranger today, and I noticed a fuel pressure regulator sitting right there on the fuel rail, which reminded me of as to why would a returnless fuel system even have a fuel pressure regulator present. She only has one line feeding the fuel rail, and the fuel filter has a 3rd bypass line on it. I'm puzzled as to why there is even a fuel pressure regulator there. This one is beyond me. She has the 2.5 Lima inline 4 block under her hood.
that is probably a dampener not a regulator. they look similar
This is interesting, i dealt with this problem before.
Problem with your tool to detect voltage will cause you to make errors in judgment. 9volts will light your light but not run a 12volt circuit
to be honest with you i already knew it was the fuel pump after the spark test.
because if we had a plugged injector it would sort of run
if it were another issue it would smell like gas.
if it were sensor issue there would have been a CEL and a code.
Paul, on this design is the injector pressure sensor the only input for fuel pump speed or are there other inputs?
Good job, Danner,
thanks, muchas gracias, from Costa Rica.
If only all youtube videos could be as well informed.
Just want to say thank you for everything. i’ve been learning a lot from you. But I’m stuck don’t know what to do I have a 2006 Ford ranger 4.OL V6 having a misfire problem I replace the coils and spark plugs and wires and it’s always the second cylinder misfire I checked for leaks check my map sensor and my downstream O2 sensors both short term -2 in the long term is at between 14 16 what can I do next ..
could be an injector or compression issue. Check compression next
Can you use any test light to check for spark? Just seems like the secondary voltage would fry whatever bulb is in a ‘normal’ test light.
Great detailed video, thx!
Hey scan just a question the 1.61 volts at the ground side of the pump with an open ground and no current flowing you had voltage drop. Would it be correct to say the bad brush contact in the pump had incredablely high resistance? Excellent video.
Friends car, needed new coil n plug. loud pump, told him change fuel filter.Didnt, car later died-changed car runs great.
Car Pump sounds sickly at key on, throws a lean code and needs a key on and off 3 times for perfect start.
No hesitations under low rpm with an engine load and locked up converter, no idle issues.
Lean code goes away with 1 notch above E and below. Runs great
Havent checked fuel pressure, leaning toward tired pump?
252,000miles
Another A+ video!
Thanks again.
HI PAULi wait for the engine fully hot close loop and scope the o2 sersor 4 of them,O2B1S1,O2B1S2,O2B2S1,O2B2S2 AND THE ONE GOT MY ATTENTION WAS (O2B1S1) WHEN I accelerate stay 290 to 310 mv no change, until I let go the gas pedal go to 810mv for a SEC.and back to 290.my STFT and LTFT was much better sometimes, from 3 to 9.5 STFT and 8 to 9.4 LTFT. what means B1S1 ON THE O2 sensor?nissan 2005 pathfinder 4.0. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP..
check engine light is on= code P0191...Symptom's are "No start but cranking has spark"...first key turn no fuel pump prime noise heard.... symptom comes and goes in any type of weather or temperatures On second crank if you turn the key to off and than turn it back to crank ( if i hear the fuel pump prime) than the car starts.
but if i don't it will just crank but sometimes after i hear the pump prime and starts it stumbles like it wants to die and it does..(and sometimes it doesn't stumble) So i do this a few times making sure i hear the pump prime and if i get lucky it starts and runs fine and off i go...Once the car is running i have no problems with staling at stops,highway speeds or idle.. Symptoms appear at first start no matter how long its been sitting (5minute to 24hrs).
Would the little uScope do everything you need for diagnosing the Ford returnless system?
thank you very good video
Great info.
I have a 2000 Merc Sable. P1237 code came up(car still runs) did the test on the module, and when I got a low voltage on the ground wire(red w/black tracer) after cranking, I banged on the tank to see if the voltage would come up, it didn't. Does it still mean that I have a bad pump? even though the car still runs? THX
Thank you 👍✋
when i am checking for grounds i look to see if there is continuity to body, would that be an acceptable way of checking? I also check for amperage on the power wires because continuity can be biased and doesn't measure current
ScannerDanner.....AWESOM breakdown. I am currently working on the same vehicle, 2000 taurus....one question....how did you access the CM in the trunk? Is the "felt" verticl cover that looks like it runs along the back of the seat what needs to come off? If so how did you go about removing that? I can't figure out how to remove things without damaging the covers...
Jeff it's been a long time. I believe I was working in the right rear area. Don't remember if I took the seat out but I do remember having difficulty finding it.
Now that is what u call through, through verification. Most would have just called it. Diagnostically the guy skills is just ice warter, COLD!!
Amazing. Thank you sir!
Impressed you were able to follow it. Props to you! For some, this stuff is like scratching a chalkboard
Good video excellent presentation.
Thank you!
Lol I was in the process. How was ericthecarguy during his visit?
@Scannerdanner I was wondering if the 1998 mustang had the same returnless system as the 2000 Ford Taurus.