I just finished pressure testing the air system on my 51 Cranbrook. I felt so happy with it until I saw this video... I didn't know hopping was an option. I use 3/8 line and 5/2 solenoid valves to control it with a similar switch. Now i want your setup!
Bigger valves will make a significant speed difference, even with 3/8” line. But swapping the valves and line together would definitely get your car moving! Give me a holler when you’re ready to start changing out some parts!
Got to say this brought me back to my high school days. Not for the car but that Honda scooter you have in the background of the shop. .ine got me back and forth to school.
I almost never ride them, but I can’t bring myself to letting them go either. They’re so much fun, and always start right up… wish all of my vehicles were like that haha
Say man, Oct 2 2022. I noticed when you were working on the Brookwood, your Jack stands are not up to safety spek. The tab that is not to the part that rises up needs to be tapped in so they are more stable. The U shaped tab, take a hammer and chisel and tap it in. Keep up the good work. Love the car. I was born in 60. Trucker Ray ✝️
Good luck! 58-64 X frame cars are a perfect starting point for suspension work- they come together pretty easily without a bunch of fabrication. Let me know if you have any questions along the way!
Definitely give us a holler when you’re ready! I think the ‘60 has a bit less space in that cargo area, but I’m sure we can come up with a tank setup that will fit.
@@twistedimages405 I was looking through your website last night and I’m liking what I’m seeing biggest thing I want to do is I want to source new front upper and lower a arms and all the rear hardware I need. I’m thinking about going with a ride tech set up for the bags and arms.
@@AndysAutoCarePlus we’re a RideTech dealer, and that’s a great option for sure. I ended up using their rear arms and adjustable panhard bar, but kept stock-style front arms on this car- saved a few bucks and still rides great. I need to make a follow-up to this video now that the car is complete and has some mileage under its belt
With your engine mounts, that is not a 235. With the distributor out front it is the next gen inline. 194, 230, 250 or 292. Solid engines. Id keep the upgraded 6 just to keep it different.
Working on my daughter’s 66’c10 was thinking about going with the four play manual cables and all what’s your opinion on that and I believe I ordered my airbag brackets from you brother man nice wagon by the way looks great I wouldn’t buff it I’d leave the patina on her just my opinion
The manual systems are a lot simpler, which is great to keep costs down. You won’t get crazy speed like this, but nobody NEEDS a fast system like this haha I’ve heard they don’t like pressures above 180, so keep that in mind- otherwise you should be good!
@@twistedimages405 man that’s definitely fast one bouncing off the ground bro. Man you got some nice rides I thought about doing one of those little mail vans you got was going to prostreet it with air ride about 15 yrs ago but I didn’t get the chance to those little vans are getting hard to find wich your out west and got a hole lot better chance of finding the good stuff that isn’t rotted out I’m in West Virginia and hardly anything around here I’d love to find a wagon too and do thanks for your time and help buddy
Where did you get the upper and lower control arms and all the stuff for the rear end tubular control arms? I have a 1964 chevy Biscayne wagon that I’m planning on doing the same thing to.
You’re not going to get the speed out of a manifold setup- the internal ports are just too small to get big flow. Swapping the manifold to individual valves mounted at each corner would speed things up significantly, even with 3/8” line. This car is running 1/2” line for even more speed
So I’m working on my wife’s 61 biscayne 4dr flattop. Fully bagged and had stock wheels on it. We replaced them yesterday for some 14x7 reverse lip spokes and in the short ride home at normal ride height it rubbed the passenger rear white wall completely off. Rear end is centered. What can be done to clearance it enough to not do this to another new tire?
With a reverse 7” wheel it’s going to hard to keep it from rubbing at all heights with the panhard bar setup- even with an adjustable bar it will want to rub at full lift or drop. I’d probably recommend a y-bone setup to eliminate the panhard bar completely- this will keep the axle centered at all heights. The other option would be to narrow the axle, but a y-bone is a lot less expensive!
Here’s a link to the adjustable mufflers we use to slow down drop on fast systems- they just thread into the open ports on the dump valves: www.twistedimages.com/Adjustable-valve-muffler--12-NPT_p_3361.html
Ordered the basic paddle kit for my 63 biscayne! Was wondering if you have any footage of the front shock mount relocation installation? Love the car tho very cool!
I'm not running shocks on this car for the time being- partially because I like how fast the front is, but also because the car has the manual shift linkage in the way. Here's a video that cover the installation pretty well though- shock bracket installation starts around 1:10:35 in case I didn't link it properly: ruclips.net/video/GEySrWol5JQ/видео.html
@@wedodelatorre7288 technically, the official word is you should ALWAYS run shocks at all four corners. But there are tons of people running bags (and hydraulics) without them. I’ve put a couple hundred miles on this car now and it’s fine. Sure, it would be even better with the front shocks but that can wait
I haven’t modified the driveshaft at all- it has an aftermarket carrier bearing that someone installed when they swapped the T5 transmission in. I can drive at all heights at low speed, but there is noticeable vibration at both ends of suspension travel when cruising at higher speeds
I had them on my shelf for several years, just waiting for something to use them on. It looks like I can get two GC Extreme 3/4 orifice 1/2" port valves right now, too- holler if you need 'em!
We have a bunch of options for kits, starting around $1000. This one would be right around $2000 with the air bag upgrade, larger air compressors, and dual tanks. Hit me up if you have any questions! -Phil
@@petebowman7532 it’s still a six with a T5, but I think I’m going to swap something a bit more powerful along with an automatic in there. Highways here in Oklahoma are 75-80mph, and this thing really struggles to keep up.
I just finished pressure testing the air system on my 51 Cranbrook. I felt so happy with it until I saw this video... I didn't know hopping was an option. I use 3/8 line and 5/2 solenoid valves to control it with a similar switch. Now i want your setup!
Bigger valves will make a significant speed difference, even with 3/8” line. But swapping the valves and line together would definitely get your car moving! Give me a holler when you’re ready to start changing out some parts!
Got to say this brought me back to my high school days. Not for the car but that Honda scooter you have in the background of the shop. .ine got me back and forth to school.
I almost never ride them, but I can’t bring myself to letting them go either. They’re so much fun, and always start right up… wish all of my vehicles were like that haha
DUDE THAT IS AWESOME!!!
THIS THING IS SO SICK!
Say man, Oct 2 2022. I noticed when you were working on the Brookwood, your Jack stands are not up to safety spek. The tab that is not to the part that rises up needs to be tapped in so they are more stable. The U shaped tab, take a hammer and chisel and tap it in. Keep up the good work. Love the car. I was born in 60. Trucker Ray ✝️
Thanks Ray! I’ll go check them all today
Wow!! Love the hop 👌
I have a 59 2 door Belair
Im Not sure how to stall bags...but I'm will go try
👍👍🙋♂️👍👍
Good luck! 58-64 X frame cars are a perfect starting point for suspension work- they come together pretty easily without a bunch of fabrication. Let me know if you have any questions along the way!
Sick!!!
I have a 60 brookwood I want to bag and hop
Definitely give us a holler when you’re ready! I think the ‘60 has a bit less space in that cargo area, but I’m sure we can come up with a tank setup that will fit.
Love it. Wanting to do air ride on my 64 four door hard top.
Holler when you’re ready and we’ll put a kit together for you!
@@twistedimages405 I was looking through your website last night and I’m liking what I’m seeing biggest thing I want to do is I want to source new front upper and lower a arms and all the rear hardware I need. I’m thinking about going with a ride tech set up for the bags and arms.
@@AndysAutoCarePlus we’re a RideTech dealer, and that’s a great option for sure. I ended up using their rear arms and adjustable panhard bar, but kept stock-style front arms on this car- saved a few bucks and still rides great. I need to make a follow-up to this video now that the car is complete and has some mileage under its belt
So badass
It looked so much better with the bigger white walls 👍
Those skinny whites look way better and interior is gonna be killer
Thank you! “Buffed out” whitewalls used to be super popular back in northern Cali, but I love a clean skinny whitewall.
@@twistedimages405 i haven't had anything on whitewalls in awhile.
With your engine mounts, that is not a 235. With the distributor out front it is the next gen inline. 194, 230, 250 or 292. Solid engines. Id keep the upgraded 6 just to keep it different.
Hey, you’re right! When I upgraded to the Pertronix ignition I discovered that. Turns out it’s a 250. Good eye!
Phil is it possible to run the lines out the side of the front brackets through the frame or beside the frame instead of up like that?
Yes, our front brackets have windows cut into the sides for running the valves outside of the engine bay.
Working on my daughter’s 66’c10 was thinking about going with the four play manual cables and all what’s your opinion on that and I believe I ordered my airbag brackets from you brother man nice wagon by the way looks great I wouldn’t buff it I’d leave the patina on her just my opinion
The manual systems are a lot simpler, which is great to keep costs down. You won’t get crazy speed like this, but nobody NEEDS a fast system like this haha
I’ve heard they don’t like pressures above 180, so keep that in mind- otherwise you should be good!
@@twistedimages405 man that’s definitely fast one bouncing off the ground bro. Man you got some nice rides I thought about doing one of those little mail vans you got was going to prostreet it with air ride about 15 yrs ago but I didn’t get the chance to those little vans are getting hard to find wich your out west and got a hole lot better chance of finding the good stuff that isn’t rotted out I’m in West Virginia and hardly anything around here I’d love to find a wagon too and do thanks for your time and help buddy
Where did you get the upper and lower control arms and all the stuff for the rear end tubular control arms? I have a 1964 chevy Biscayne wagon that I’m planning on doing the same thing to.
I just updated the video description with a couple of links- here's a link to the front and rear arms: www.twistedimages.com/58-64-Impala_c_784.html
I am running a slam-box manifold with one compressor how can I get it to snap up in the front like that I'm running 3/8
You’re not going to get the speed out of a manifold setup- the internal ports are just too small to get big flow. Swapping the manifold to individual valves mounted at each corner would speed things up significantly, even with 3/8” line. This car is running 1/2” line for even more speed
So I’m working on my wife’s 61 biscayne 4dr flattop. Fully bagged and had stock wheels on it. We replaced them yesterday for some 14x7 reverse lip spokes and in the short ride home at normal ride height it rubbed the passenger rear white wall completely off. Rear end is centered. What can be done to clearance it enough to not do this to another new tire?
With a reverse 7” wheel it’s going to hard to keep it from rubbing at all heights with the panhard bar setup- even with an adjustable bar it will want to rub at full lift or drop.
I’d probably recommend a y-bone setup to eliminate the panhard bar completely- this will keep the axle centered at all heights.
The other option would be to narrow the axle, but a y-bone is a lot less expensive!
😎 LOOKING bitchin👍
I'm working on a 59 Belair 2 door, I have to get more info on your setup...
You did an awesome job
Definitely hit me up- I’d be happy to help you get your system dialed in!
What do I need to slow the drop in the front on my car?
Here’s a link to the adjustable mufflers we use to slow down drop on fast systems- they just thread into the open ports on the dump valves: www.twistedimages.com/Adjustable-valve-muffler--12-NPT_p_3361.html
Got a 1/2 air setup on my 63 chevy, but thats FAST, as you know :p. Where did you Get your «slow downs», that you monted on the rear?
I keep them in stock: www.twistedimages.com/Adjustable-valve-muffler--12-NPT_p_3361.html
Ordered the basic paddle kit for my 63 biscayne! Was wondering if you have any footage of the front shock mount relocation installation? Love the car tho very cool!
I'm not running shocks on this car for the time being- partially because I like how fast the front is, but also because the car has the manual shift linkage in the way.
Here's a video that cover the installation pretty well though- shock bracket installation starts around 1:10:35 in case I didn't link it properly:
ruclips.net/video/GEySrWol5JQ/видео.html
@@twistedimages405 awesome thank you for the reply. So it's not necessary to run the front shocks? Personal preference?
@@wedodelatorre7288 technically, the official word is you should ALWAYS run shocks at all four corners. But there are tons of people running bags (and hydraulics) without them. I’ve put a couple hundred miles on this car now and it’s fine. Sure, it would be even better with the front shocks but that can wait
And also did you have to put a split yoke on the Driveline can you drive this car with your airbags inflated all the way
I haven’t modified the driveshaft at all- it has an aftermarket carrier bearing that someone installed when they swapped the T5 transmission in. I can drive at all heights at low speed, but there is noticeable vibration at both ends of suspension travel when cruising at higher speeds
How you know?
what size tires my boy?
Where did you order the brackets from ..
I build and sell these brackets (and lots more!) on my website: www.twistedimages.com
What air ride kit is that !? 💯🔥I need to purchase this!
www.twistedimages.com/FAST-Air-Suspension-System--58-64-Impala_p_1534.html
Let me know if you have any questions!
@@twistedimages405 Hey bro I’m looking for which air bag brackets I need for a 97 Lincoln town car
How much would you charge to bag my 64 biscaney?
Our contact information is on our website www.twistedimages.com - call or message me and we’ll discuss all of the options!
🤚🤴
really cool!
-:my dream is holistic cause it guide by God..
Where did you get the 3/4 air valves
I had them on my shelf for several years, just waiting for something to use them on. It looks like I can get two GC Extreme 3/4 orifice 1/2" port valves right now, too- holler if you need 'em!
@@twistedimages405 awesome … can you explain how to plumb them
@@twistedimages405 how much for the valves
@@mikeporter3505 they’re $75 each
How much do those air bags kit run for?
We have a bunch of options for kits, starting around $1000. This one would be right around $2000 with the air bag upgrade, larger air compressors, and dual tanks. Hit me up if you have any questions! -Phil
@@twistedimages405 Thanks for the info brother.
Do you have a website?
Yep! www.twistedimages.com
Not a 235 maybe a 230 out of a 63 or something else
Good eye! It’s a 250 someone swapped in from a later model car. Discovered that when I went to add a Pertronix ignition and new plugs haha
Nice I love 6 bangers ...I have a 61 bubble top swapped out the 6 for a 350 I'm still kicking myself for doing it
@@twistedimages405 it's a sweet wagon did you leave the straight 6 in it
@@petebowman7532 it’s still a six with a T5, but I think I’m going to swap something a bit more powerful along with an automatic in there. Highways here in Oklahoma are 75-80mph, and this thing really struggles to keep up.
How do I wire these solenoids to 4 switches? I can't find a good diagram anywhere
Send a message my way through our website www.twistedimages.com and I’ll sketch one up for you!