Sorry.But I dont understand how he test.I did not see where it he connect in outlet in AC in magnetic sensor.And in 3 wire also I did not where he connect it.Only reading I see
Very helpful video. Subbed! I will use this video to check out my dad's 2011 Altima. He said it went into limp mode driving to the supermarket this morning. I want to make sure he has a safe car to drive since he is 75.
I realize that this video is 9 years old but it is still valid. You noted that many of the 3 wire sensors can be 5 volt or 12 volt. You addressed this but the pinouts are not always the same. Looking at the sensor male plug (not the cable plug) on your left is pin 3. pin2 is center, and pin 1 one is on your right. As an example of how auto makers mess you up. On a Jeep 2005 the 3.L/4.7L the camshaft and crankshaft sensor has Pin 1 = signal, Pin 2 = Ground, and Pin 3 = 5 volt supply. On the 5.7L the crankshaft sensor has Pin 3 = signal, Pin 2 = Ground, and Pin 1 = 5 volt supply but the camshaft sensors are the same as the 3.L/4.7L.
The three wire hall effect sensors can still be bad if you're just measuring the changing voltage. You should carefully measure their static voltages as well. You should put the meter on DC volts and measure the signal wire with the ignition on, but without starting it. The voltage should be in one of two states, High state (5 or 12 volts) and Low state (0 volts). If you turn the motor by hand using a breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt it will cycle through these two states. The important thing here is that when it's in its low state, that it is very close to 0V. If you measure something like 0.120 volts, it means that your sensor is failing and should be replaced. If this happens, you will get random misfires. You should also make sure the voltage is reaching very close to the source voltage. Put one probe on the source wire and the other on the signal wire. The difference should be very small, like 0.02 volts. With these hall effect sensors, you can do this check with a new one without installing it and using that as a baseline. Simply connect it to the connector and make the same measurements; you could put something metal like a screwdriver near the sensor to put it into an activated state. I had this same problem myself. The engine ran great but I had random misfire codes pop up. The CPS signal looked good on an oscilloscope. After replacing the wires, plugs, coils, power transistor and even cleaning the carbon out of the ignition switch I was still having this intermittent problem. I took a closer look at the static voltages of the CPS and that was the problem. It was measuring 0.162v on the low state. The new one measured 0.026v.
THIS is the important info that most of these videos dont have. They give you 90% of what you for simple problems but anything more complicated than that and you'll get nowhere. Thank you sir.
I replaced my 2003 sprinter cam position sensor, works better than ever, I had crank but no start issues when the van was hot. $20 part with only 2 bolts.
Let me say you are extremely good at explaining things and in a reasonable amount of time. THANK YOU for not telling a story about your girlfriends dogs new trick when I went there to find out how to fix a flat. All made up however if you want to give information to assist people who may not know just do that. I think you are the first person that has been clear to the point and not confusing. I am very well knowledgeable on automotive troubleshooting and your information is good and anyone should be able to to follow you direction with ease as well you cover all angles. I don't see how anyone could not comprehend your info even more so if they watch a couple times if new to the work. I rarely leave any comments check my profile but I feel that even though you may know you are doing a great job keep it up and more so all the people who are on limited funds that you are helping is awesome!
Excellent info & teaching skills! Love your videos. Thank you so much for sharing your talents & conveying in such an easy to understand way for us laymen. Much appreciated by all!
This video is more helpful than I can say. I'm currently having a crank-no-start issue and by George i cannot figure it out. Time to do these tests. I've got the 3-wire - mitsu evo 7. Thanks RAW. God bless you.
Love your videos man !!! Being a mechanic myself the only thing I seen that could be not right.... When you were showing continuity,, I'd you have a 18 gauge wire with say 41 strands of wire in it, if 40 of those wires are broke or curroded your multimeter will show continuity. But will not carry enough current to operate the sensor. Need to show testing the wire with a couple Amp test light, depending on the circuit. Should make a video about load testing wires 👌
Thank you.. You are a true subject matter expert. No guessing on a three wire.. Simple test.. wire, crank, scan the multimeter for a voltage signal.. Thank you.. Thank. Made it simple.. Have a great day..
Oh, wow, at first I thought this was the typical "mechanic in his garage"-type video which, while quite useful, are usual really low quality and mostly talking (and a ton of noise in the background) and little showing, but this is really high grade with a bunch of stuff prepared beforehand to teach us better. Good job!!
thanks! i recently put in a NEW (but bad) CKP sensor and its apparently shorted internally- screwing up my fuel level gauge, ignition coil/ignitor(?) and setting off a host of other selonoids- et al! I cleaned all grounds, rebuilt my fuse box, new ECU, cleaned everything........no changes UNTIL i just now decided to swap back in the old CKP sensor. All the electrical clicking, etc went away immediately and Im not going thru the KEY RELEARN process for the new ECU.
To add a bit, if you have an older engine (say 1995 to 2010) with a coil-pack instead of an individual coil for each cylinder, then likely 2 cylinders share a coil. That is the "wasted spark" system where the spark plug fires on both the compression and exhaust stroke. If such wasted-spark, then the ignition system (spark) doesn't use the camshaft signal. The camshaft signal is only used to synch the fuel injectors to the intake valve openings, for lower emissions around idle. Of course such synching doesn't help at higher throttle since the injectors are spraying much longer and while the intake valve is closed. In such engines, the camshaft signal shouldn't be required for the engine to run well (just not optimal idle emissions), but that doesn't mean it will. I think some do and some don't. My 1996 2.4L & 2002 3.8L Chrysler engines die if I unplug the camshaft sensor, even though they have coil-packs and wasted-spark ignitions. Perhaps the designers were just being mean. Chrysler crank & cam sensor are 3-wire (Hall-effect) type, but powered by 8 VDC from the PCM.
i found this video by accident however it is useful for ppl who dont know what they are doing or are doing general repairs on sensors. great explanation.
Crank and cam position sensors generally are notorious for failing, but let's be honest, Land Rovers are notorious going back 30+ years for electrical reliability (well, lack of to be more precise). Long may it continue (and it will)
I was told that my CPS is possibly failing.. But here is my sittuation. There is no check engine light and the car starts fine but has rough idling in the heat or after the 1st trip? So if you drive in the morning to get gas there is no issues, but after you start up your car again (2nd trip) it starts idling low or bad. I have an AC adapter that reads voltage and at stops/red lights it drops below 12v.
Great video man. Way to explain the volt meter function. What if your engine is running fine then shuts off. After about 5 minutes it fires back up with no issues. But will repeat. I've already replaced the ignition module to no effect. This is a 2.5L Ford 4 cylinder
@@tonydavila2606 you're the 1st to say that. Thanks i'l look into that. So if i turn it off right after I'm done and try to turn it back on it won't start until i let it cool down.
4PITTS1BURGH2 yeah if it’s clogged and restricts the air flow it will choke the engine and when you turn it off it’ll slowly leak out then it’ll run again until it chokes the engine. Basically like trying to run with your nose plugged. Let me know what you find!
Thanks for the information in this video and others. A lot of mechanics won't tell you this stuff so you'll have to go to them for overpriced repairs. Thanks again and keep up the great work.
Sometimes repairs are expensive, not always intentionally overpriced. It costs a LOT in overhead to hang a shingle out and open a legit business. I can't ask a guy to give up his day to fix my stuff for the same price I could and make no money to pay the light bill, taxes and tool truck bill plus house and feed their family on short days when they get home by dinner. They won't be around long. There are scalpers out there and I have no defense or respect for them. Cheers!
Very difficult to understand for a non english man due to the fast speech..in any way this is the better video i have encountered for this purpose, thanks a lot.
Hey there.. great video. My car has issues starting when the engine is cold. Take several (LOTS) tries and it will finally start. Once it warms up, no more starting issues. 1993 Volvo 240 Wagon
Eric J Simmons how long has it been since you changed your battery of your vehicle? I just changed my battery because it needed to be charged a bit before starting up. It would click instead of starting up.
Like your Excellent Lessons :+) I recently got P0339 HONDA CKP SENSOR A CIRCUIT INTERMITTENT on my 2008 4cyl Honda Accord. ... My INNOVA OBD2 scanner also pulled a 10 second BATTERY Monitor scan test resulting in 11.84 VOLTS (at ECM vs 12.5v at my battery terminals) ... while saying: "BELOW ACCEPTABLE LIMITS". ... I believe my small 4 cylinder Napa battery has been reading marginally lower voltage for a couple years plus (& possibly the biggest source of my problem). I also believe some higher end batteries of same small size would retain higher voltage. My Choice now is: I am going up a size to the 24F larger size battery (spec 6 cylinder Accords) in AGM format as my best shot for a long term fix. I lost Engine torque when that code tripped. ... Erasing that code with my Innova scanner after study resulted in no more problems or codes returning (so far/ even though my 24F AGM battery order in progress makes that a near future project). I also intend to remove my Crank Shaft Sensor's plug and spay contact cleaner. ... My two cents as a past mechanic shop owner who still like doing all my own wrenching :+)
thanks for sharing this video! I have a 1995 c220 and sometimes starts sometimes not, I replaced the original Crankshaft pos. sensor and this is my next original sensor from 1995 to replace. This 2 wires camshaft sensor has a resistance of 890 ohms ( half of the one you show here), do you think this is a very low value for this sensor? thank you !
So the second sensor he tests, when he puts the paperclips on it are we assuming he plugs the sensor back into the car but doesn’t connect the pins to the wiring harnesses since he has them hooked up to his tester unit? Or does he hook it up to both his tester unit and the cars wiring harness?
I have an 03 ram 1500 that would run fine for about 20 minutes and start to spit and sputter with NO CODES. I had a hell of time with crank shaft sensor. Swapped out both cam and crank and everything seems fine.. I used this video for a reference for my issues. Idk why dodge makes it so hard to find out what's wrong. Thanks for the help
Thanks for good video. Sensor is OK as you told but car still take long self to start. Before car was OK,, just for nothing I opened the Cam sensor to make it clean because large mud of power steering oil was on it. But now car takes a long self to start before it was having nothing problem
Awesome video, watched til the end. A little slow and basic for my liking, but love your efforts explaining it correctly. I am curious to watch more of your vids.
You are the best.. I replace timing belt and car wouldn't start.. By mistake, I had pinch the crank position sensor wire.. as per your testing technical help me to check my CPS.. thanks
Great video! I'd like to add that some crank sensors with produce voltage and can still be faulty if it is not being pulled all the way to ground, but you would need a scope to see that, cheers!
Thank you so much for making this video. My 2004 Dodge Durango 5.7 Hemi died on me and now it barely runs and smokes really bad . Hoping this sensor is the problem. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
Great video. I've been trying to fix my Tahoe that has p0336 error code and have watch all you videos to try to help. I've replaced the sensor, wiring, control module for coil, and the coil and still can't get any spark. Something odd is going on because I have power to all different components but its like the sensor is not able to read the signal when the metal cog/notch rotates past inside the timing cover.
Great video my friend, well explained, but you did not showed the wiring hook up on the bench testing? Can you explain us please, thank you cheers from Ontario ca, take care you and the family
2006 Impala LT 3.9. The sensor that is on my car is plastic( the part that goes into the hole on the engine).This is like the first one you showed on your video. It also has a small rubber grommet. When I put the sensor in the hole and tighten it, it's still a little wabbly. Will that affect it's performance? Awesome video. Thanks so much.
Excellent video plenty of important details been explant very clearly came from master tech ,who can make harder lessons about cars mechanic problems to been more easy to been understood when ever one of us see his great videos , from bottom of my hart I would like to thank you very much.
RW....you mentioned testing the crank shaft position sensor and that one of the two connections should show ground. My 2015 Hyundai genesis Coupe 3.8 liter 2 pin connection for the crank position sensor has 2.17 volts at both female connections. Is it possible that newer models cars would be this way?? Thanks for the great videos!
If I am not understanding correctly please let me know but I believe the testing that you are trying to achieve is testing the input voltage make sure the ground is good and then also the signal. But is there a way I can test the sensor by itself is there a resistance test I can do on it perhaps test on one of the terminals can I jump the terminals and should it read anything with the connector unplugged?
Helpful video, but what if you have both codes, which happened to my sons 2003 Mitsubishi evo. I have heard that a bad alternator diode, or even a weak battery could be the cause?
If you change these sensors, do you have to do a re-learn procedure on the car? I have a 2008 Saturn Vue (3.6L). If you do have to re-learn, can it be done by a DIYer? Or is it something that a dealer needs to do with specialized equipment?
Hello. Thanks for the informative video. I'm getting zero value during idle and if I rev up then I get negative values from my intake camshaft position sensor. Is this normal? Exhaust camshaft sensor always have a positive value. BMW 535i XD. Thank you.
You can tell when someone truly understands a subject because he can explain it in layman terms. Well done and thanks for the channel.
I absolutely agree with that statement!
Some topics are too complex to explain in layman’s terms... eg methods of molcular cell biology. But in this case I agree.
Sorry.But I dont understand how he test.I did not see where it he connect in outlet in AC in magnetic sensor.And in 3 wire also I did not where he connect it.Only reading I see
Q
I really like the idea of being able to test everything with a basic multi-meter. This is great.
You are the man Mr Wrench!
It's like family showing me how to do this because you don't miss a thing. Like for family sake.
Very helpful video. Subbed!
I will use this video to check out my dad's 2011 Altima. He said it went into limp mode driving to the supermarket this morning. I want to make sure he has a safe car to drive since he is 75.
You are a life saver. I have a 06 Subaru inpreza 2.5 turbo and it was breaking my head for 3 weeks. Thank you. You have no clue
Thank you very much for another informative video. I see it’s 8 years old, it’s like you recorded it yesterday! Simple and to the point!
I realize that this video is 9 years old but it is still valid. You noted that many of the 3 wire sensors can be 5 volt or 12 volt. You addressed this but the pinouts are not always the same. Looking at the sensor male plug (not the cable plug) on your left is pin 3. pin2 is center, and pin 1 one is on your right. As an example of how auto makers mess you up. On a Jeep 2005 the 3.L/4.7L the camshaft and crankshaft sensor has Pin 1 = signal, Pin 2 = Ground, and Pin 3 = 5 volt supply. On the 5.7L the crankshaft sensor has Pin 3 = signal, Pin 2 = Ground, and Pin 1 = 5 volt supply but the camshaft sensors are the same as the 3.L/4.7L.
The three wire hall effect sensors can still be bad if you're just measuring the changing voltage. You should carefully measure their static voltages as well. You should put the meter on DC volts and measure the signal wire with the ignition on, but without starting it. The voltage should be in one of two states, High state (5 or 12 volts) and Low state (0 volts). If you turn the motor by hand using a breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt it will cycle through these two states. The important thing here is that when it's in its low state, that it is very close to 0V. If you measure something like 0.120 volts, it means that your sensor is failing and should be replaced. If this happens, you will get random misfires. You should also make sure the voltage is reaching very close to the source voltage. Put one probe on the source wire and the other on the signal wire. The difference should be very small, like 0.02 volts. With these hall effect sensors, you can do this check with a new one without installing it and using that as a baseline. Simply connect it to the connector and make the same measurements; you could put something metal like a screwdriver near the sensor to put it into an activated state.
I had this same problem myself. The engine ran great but I had random misfire codes pop up. The CPS signal looked good on an oscilloscope. After replacing the wires, plugs, coils, power transistor and even cleaning the carbon out of the ignition switch I was still having this intermittent problem. I took a closer look at the static voltages of the CPS and that was the problem. It was measuring 0.162v on the low state. The new one measured 0.026v.
Where were last week?
What about if i only get 4.996 volts as i rotate the engine by hand? Means the sensor is stuck in one position?
Wow! Good info, much appreciated!
Why don't you make your own video then rather than doing this? Why ?
THIS is the important info that most of these videos dont have. They give you 90% of what you for simple problems but anything more complicated than that and you'll get nowhere. Thank you sir.
No nonsense off topic crap that I see on other videos... straight to the point and no BS... thank you sir! Awesome videos!!!
I replaced my 2003 sprinter cam position sensor, works better than ever, I had crank but no start issues when the van was hot. $20 part with only 2 bolts.
Explained very well. Even an old school Holley carb guy and FI - ECU novice like me understood. Thank You!
Let me say you are extremely good at explaining things and in a reasonable amount of time. THANK YOU for not telling a story about your girlfriends dogs new trick when I went there to find out how to fix a flat. All made up however if you want to give information to assist people who may not know just do that. I think you are the first person that has been clear to the point and not confusing. I am very well knowledgeable on automotive troubleshooting and your information is good and anyone should be able to to follow you direction with ease as well you cover all angles. I don't see how anyone could not comprehend your info even more so if they watch a couple times if new to the work. I rarely leave any comments check my profile but I feel that even though you may know you are doing a great job keep it up and more so all the people who are on limited funds that you are helping is awesome!
Excellent info & teaching skills!
Love your videos.
Thank you so much for sharing your talents & conveying in such an easy to understand way for us laymen.
Much appreciated by all!
Perfect!!! straight to the point with no long drawn out pointless/useless spiel. You do some great videos, thanks
Just want to say thanks your video was step by step explanations were good and at a beginners level. You do a good job.
This video is more helpful than I can say. I'm currently having a crank-no-start issue and by George i cannot figure it out. Time to do these tests. I've got the 3-wire - mitsu evo 7. Thanks RAW. God bless you.
Love your videos man !!! Being a mechanic myself the only thing I seen that could be not right.... When you were showing continuity,, I'd you have a 18 gauge wire with say 41 strands of wire in it, if 40 of those wires are broke or curroded your multimeter will show continuity. But will not carry enough current to operate the sensor. Need to show testing the wire with a couple Amp test light, depending on the circuit. Should make a video about load testing wires 👌
Thank you.. You are a true subject matter expert. No guessing on a three wire.. Simple test.. wire, crank, scan the multimeter for a voltage signal.. Thank you.. Thank. Made it simple.. Have a great day..
Oh, wow, at first I thought this was the typical "mechanic in his garage"-type video which, while quite useful, are usual really low quality and mostly talking (and a ton of noise in the background) and little showing, but this is really high grade with a bunch of stuff prepared beforehand to teach us better. Good job!!
this guy is awesome, he has lots of very educational videos. he has taught me many useful things
chrisvill54 me too
I agree he is a great teacher
Cool
I'll second that!
Each used car I get and need help, your videos get me through it, and the advice is good on any model. Thanks for the lessons.
Thank you for your quick and precise videos, you have helped me in many issues.
thanks! i recently put in a NEW (but bad) CKP sensor and its apparently shorted internally- screwing up my fuel level gauge, ignition coil/ignitor(?) and setting off a host of other selonoids- et al! I cleaned all grounds, rebuilt my fuse box, new ECU, cleaned everything........no changes UNTIL i just now decided to swap back in the old CKP sensor. All the electrical clicking, etc went away immediately and Im not going thru the KEY RELEARN process for the new ECU.
To add a bit, if you have an older engine (say 1995 to 2010) with a coil-pack instead of an individual coil for each cylinder, then likely 2 cylinders share a coil. That is the "wasted spark" system where the spark plug fires on both the compression and exhaust stroke. If such wasted-spark, then the ignition system (spark) doesn't use the camshaft signal. The camshaft signal is only used to synch the fuel injectors to the intake valve openings, for lower emissions around idle. Of course such synching doesn't help at higher throttle since the injectors are spraying much longer and while the intake valve is closed. In such engines, the camshaft signal shouldn't be required for the engine to run well (just not optimal idle emissions), but that doesn't mean it will. I think some do and some don't. My 1996 2.4L & 2002 3.8L Chrysler engines die if I unplug the camshaft sensor, even though they have coil-packs and wasted-spark ignitions. Perhaps the designers were just being mean. Chrysler crank & cam sensor are 3-wire (Hall-effect) type, but powered by 8 VDC from the PCM.
Man i became auto mechanic watching your videos. You are the BOSS. Stay blessed.
Straight to the point and simply put. Thanks
i found this video by accident however it is useful for ppl who dont know what they are doing or are doing general repairs on sensors. great explanation.
I like your mc patch.
Great info! Land Rover Discovery 2 Crankshaft position sensors are notorious for failing... right in the middle of traffic.
Crank and cam position sensors generally are notorious for failing, but let's be honest, Land Rovers are notorious going back 30+ years for electrical reliability (well, lack of to be more precise). Long may it continue (and it will)
Bro straight up thank you so much. You literally explain it super easy.
Great info. But when these sensors warm up, can be a fail.
Do you recommend a mileage replace for these parts, b/c lets face it, nothing lasts forever
I was told that my CPS is possibly failing.. But here is my sittuation.
There is no check engine light and the car starts fine but has rough idling in the heat or after the 1st trip? So if you drive in the morning to get gas there is no issues, but after you start up your car again (2nd trip) it starts idling low or bad.
I have an AC adapter that reads voltage and at stops/red lights it drops below 12v.
Yes very informative video, I am replacing a sensor I bought today but now I will test both the ones in my porsche first
Thank you for the very detailed step by step explanation
Great video man. Way to explain the volt meter function. What if your engine is running fine then shuts off. After about 5 minutes it fires back up with no issues. But will repeat. I've already replaced the ignition module to no effect. This is a 2.5L Ford 4 cylinder
4PITTS1BURGH2 plugged catalytic converter.
@@tonydavila2606 you're the 1st to say that. Thanks i'l look into that. So if i turn it off right after I'm done and try to turn it back on it won't start until i let it cool down.
4PITTS1BURGH2 yeah if it’s clogged and restricts the air flow it will choke the engine and when you turn it off it’ll slowly leak out then it’ll run again until it chokes the engine. Basically like trying to run with your nose plugged. Let me know what you find!
the best i have seen, and i been working on cars most of my life,thank you
the picture quality on this video is excellent
Thanks for the information in this video and others. A lot of mechanics won't tell you this stuff so you'll have to go to them for overpriced repairs. Thanks again and keep up the great work.
Sometimes repairs are expensive, not always intentionally overpriced. It costs a LOT in overhead to hang a shingle out and open a legit business. I can't ask a guy to give up his day to fix my stuff for the same price I could and make no money to pay the light bill, taxes and tool truck bill plus house and feed their family on short days when they get home by dinner. They won't be around long. There are scalpers out there and I have no defense or respect for them.
Cheers!
you videos are the top of the line!!!!!!!!!!you are a amazing teacher!!!!!!!!!!!
👌you as a teacher is incredibly easy to learn your methods; thanks 😁👍
you are amazing at explaining complex German automotive techs
Great video. I find that alot of problems can be made easier with a good diagnosis method, like yours :)
Very difficult to understand for a non english man due to the fast speech..in any way this is the better video i have encountered for this purpose, thanks a lot.
You seem to be doing pretty good writing english.
Master tech here, great info and how-to for anyone to understand, he is a good technician.
Excellent video clear and concise explanation that the layman can understand, well done
Dude you are awesome. Just had say. I agree you're gift is in teaching.
Hey there.. great video. My car has issues starting when the engine is cold. Take several (LOTS) tries and it will finally start. Once it warms up, no more starting issues. 1993 Volvo 240 Wagon
Eric J Simmons how long has it been since you changed your battery of your vehicle? I just changed my battery because it needed to be charged a bit before starting up. It would click instead of starting up.
Hardy Joe it clicked because you had a bad terminal connection
Check your coil packs
Its a volvo
Clear and made simple ta.
Short and straight to the point. Great video. Thank you.
Really Helpful Thank You
You always explain in Great detail thanks for your hard work
Someone just made one of the best videos i’ve ever watched... Well Done.. you know your beans.. cheers
Thank you that was the best explanation I have seen. Thank you for the great video
Great expansion on the subject I am now much wiser on this matter Thank You
Good job Sir .. your a blessing to us DIYers
Like your Excellent Lessons :+) I recently got P0339 HONDA CKP SENSOR A CIRCUIT INTERMITTENT on my 2008 4cyl Honda Accord. ... My INNOVA OBD2 scanner also pulled a 10 second BATTERY Monitor scan test resulting in 11.84 VOLTS (at ECM vs 12.5v at
my battery terminals) ... while saying: "BELOW ACCEPTABLE LIMITS". ... I believe my small 4 cylinder Napa battery has been reading marginally lower voltage for a couple years plus (& possibly the biggest source of my problem). I also believe some higher end batteries of same small size would retain higher voltage. My Choice now is: I am going up a size to the 24F larger size battery (spec 6 cylinder Accords) in AGM format as my best shot for a long term fix. I lost Engine torque when that code tripped. ... Erasing that code with my Innova scanner after study resulted in no more problems or codes returning (so far/ even though my 24F AGM battery order in progress makes that a near future project). I also intend to remove my Crank Shaft Sensor's plug and spay contact cleaner. ... My two cents as a past mechanic shop owner who still like doing all my own wrenching :+)
Great description on how to test the CPS.. thanks!
thanks for sharing this video! I have a 1995 c220 and sometimes starts sometimes not,
I replaced the original Crankshaft pos. sensor and this is my next original sensor from 1995 to replace.
This 2 wires camshaft sensor has a resistance of 890 ohms ( half of the one you show here), do you think this is a very low value for this sensor? thank you !
If you can read 2-3 volt AC then it's not problem
he is so easy to understand the way he explain things u just get it !
This is so clear and helpful, and short! Perfect video thanks R&W!
Your the best u put this out so good love it every much am all the way out in Jamaica thanks for your help a lot
So the second sensor he tests, when he puts the paperclips on it are we assuming he plugs the sensor back into the car but doesn’t connect the pins to the wiring harnesses since he has them hooked up to his tester unit? Or does he hook it up to both his tester unit and the cars wiring harness?
Very well explained, this will be a big help to people as i have learned from it,thanks.
dear sir your way of teaching is outstanding and thank you do much up loading videos best regards
Well done, good info, easy to follow. This is very helpful, thank you.
I have an 03 ram 1500 that would run fine for about 20 minutes and start to spit and sputter with NO CODES. I had a hell of time with crank shaft sensor. Swapped out both cam and crank and everything seems fine.. I used this video for a reference for my issues. Idk why dodge makes it so hard to find out what's wrong. Thanks for the help
You are the special teacher, excellent. Countinue to give us I dear.
Thanks for good video. Sensor is OK as you told but car still take long self to start. Before car was OK,, just for nothing I opened the Cam sensor to make it clean because large mud of power steering oil was on it. But now car takes a long self to start before it was having nothing problem
Thanks for the lesson I learned something new
Awesome video, watched til the end. A little slow and basic for my liking, but love your efforts explaining it correctly.
I am curious to watch more of your vids.
Thanks man. I like your posts and videos on automotive. You really make it simple and i can tell you know your stuff. 2 thumbs up.
Excellent video by tony as ever
You are the best.. I replace timing belt and car wouldn't start.. By mistake, I had pinch the crank position sensor wire.. as per your testing technical help me to check my CPS.. thanks
Again another video to help me with my issue
Thanks man that helped me out alot and saved me money 💰
Great video! I'd like to add that some crank sensors with produce voltage and can still be faulty if it is not being pulled all the way to ground, but you would need a scope to see that, cheers!
ferlan 9 so if it's giving signal voltage reading back to the ecm, how can it be faulty?
You're a life saver, great videos and easy to follow
Thank you so much for making this video. My 2004 Dodge Durango 5.7 Hemi died on me and now it barely runs and smokes really bad . Hoping this sensor is the problem. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
What if I have continuity on both wires on the harness?
Great video. I've been trying to fix my Tahoe that has p0336 error code and have watch all you videos to try to help. I've replaced the sensor, wiring, control module for coil, and the coil and still can't get any spark. Something odd is going on because I have power to all different components but its like the sensor is not able to read the signal when the metal cog/notch rotates past inside the timing cover.
Thanks a million man you explained it well.
Great video. Good, information. I've subscribed .
Thank you very much. Your video was very helpful
Hi, I have a 1996 lexus ls400 crank but not start, does my car have crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor or just one?
Great video my friend, well explained, but you did not showed the wiring hook up on the bench testing? Can you explain us please, thank you cheers from Ontario ca, take care you and the family
2006 Impala LT 3.9. The sensor that is on my car is plastic( the part that goes into the hole on the engine).This is like the first one you showed on your video. It also has a small rubber grommet. When I put the sensor in the hole and tighten it, it's still a little wabbly. Will that affect it's performance?
Awesome video. Thanks so much.
can you make a video showing how to set up the back probe ground for the 3 pin sensor?
Thanks so much.. that was so easy.. today with my friends car, I can come out looking like a "super hero" Yay! Thank you.
Great video. It's Very helpful
Excellent video plenty of important details been explant very clearly came from master tech ,who can make harder lessons about cars mechanic problems to been more easy to been understood when ever one of us see his great videos , from bottom of my hart I would like to thank you very much.
Thank you Sir for the video very easy to understand they way you have demonstrated it.
RW....you mentioned testing the crank shaft position sensor and that one of the two connections should show ground. My 2015 Hyundai genesis Coupe 3.8 liter 2 pin connection for the crank position sensor has 2.17 volts at both female connections. Is it possible that newer models cars would be this way?? Thanks for the great videos!
VERY GOOD VIDEO !!!!!!!!! very professional
Great video, thanks for posting this (I come from the future).
Ya, it's the best answer to my question I've found.
Nicely explained, thanks.
If I am not understanding correctly please let me know but I believe the testing that you are trying to achieve is testing the input voltage make sure the ground is good and then also the signal. But is there a way I can test the sensor by itself is there a resistance test I can do on it perhaps test on one of the terminals can I jump the terminals and should it read anything with the connector unplugged?
Helpful video, but what if you have both codes, which happened to my sons 2003 Mitsubishi evo. I have heard that a bad alternator diode, or even a weak battery could be the cause?
If you change these sensors, do you have to do a re-learn procedure on the car? I have a 2008 Saturn Vue (3.6L). If you do have to re-learn, can it be done by a DIYer? Or is it something that a dealer needs to do with specialized equipment?
An absolutely superb video.helped me loads thankyou kindly.great work sir
Hello. Thanks for the informative video. I'm getting zero value during idle and if I rev up then I get negative values from my intake camshaft position sensor. Is this normal? Exhaust camshaft sensor always have a positive value. BMW 535i XD. Thank you.